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1 Click anywhere in the slide to view the next item on the slide or to advance to the next slide. Use the buttons below to navigate to another page, close the presentation or to open the help page. Slide 1 c Check for updates on the web now! Slide 2 By the 6 th Century AD the Byzantine Empire had gained control over a large part of the of the Mediterranean world. 2 Slide 3 Upper class men and women of the 6 th Century Byzantine Empire each wore a tunic and a cloak called a paludamentum. A large embroidered square at the front, called a tablion proclaimed their high status. 3
2 Slide 4 By the 11 th Century, influences from eastern decorative art had transformed Byzantine clothing, adding extensive decoration to fabrics that were often made of luxurious silk manufactured and traded by the Byzantines. 4 Slide 5 As a center of wealth and power, the Byzantine Empire influenced styles throughout Europe. Royalty adopted Byzantine type of ornamentation for their clothing and bought their silks. 5 Slide 6 Basic elements of dress in Europe during the Dark Ages combined Roman elements, such as the tunic, and Barbarian components such as leg wrappings. 6
3 Slide 7 Costume of royalty during the time of Charlemagne and after was ornamented in the Byzantine style, while commoners wore sturdy working clothes. 7 Slide 8 In the years from 800 to 1000 women wore layered tunics. 8 Slide 9 Throughout the Middle Ages, the layers of clothing worn by men consisted of: linen under drawers called braies, from which the modern term breeches derives. 9
4 Slide 10 A linen undershirt, sometimes called a chemise. Laborers often removed the shirt and worked in their braies alone. Click image to apply chemise 10 Slide 11 An undertunic was worn over the braies and shirt. For men of importance, this garment was full length. For laborers it ended below the knee. Click image to apply undertunic 11 Slide 12 An outertunic, which might allow the undertunic to show at the sleeve and skirt hems. Click image to apply outertunic 12
5 Slide 13 The layers of women's dress were similar, except that they did not wear braies and their chemises were longer than those of men. 13 Slide 14 By the 12 th Century garments worn by upper class men and women s tunics fit the body more closely. Women s sleeves often hung down almost to the ground. 14 Slide 15 The bliaut, a 12 th Century garment worn by upper class men and women was more complex in cut and fit than earlier garments. 15
6 Slide 16 By the Early 13 th Century, styles had changed and styles were loosely fitted. 16 Slide 17 Throughout the Early Middle Ages the most common outdoor garment was a cape or cloak, also called a mantle. Some had an opening for the head Others closed at the center front or side 17 Slide 18 More elaborate outdoor garments appeared in the 13 th Century. Garnache Herigaut, also called Gardecorps 18
7 Slide 19 Young unmarried women wore their hair uncovered; married women covered their hair. Hair coverings were relatively simple, often a veil with a fillet or band placed over it. 19 Slide 20 Men were sometimes bearded, but soldiers were usually clean-shaven probably because beards were uncomfortable under helmets. A coif was the most frequently used head covering for common men 20 Slide 21 he increasing variety of garments and styles is reflected in a proliferation of terminology. From a simple wrapped garment like a modern cape, there developed various garments for outdoor wear going by names such as mantle, cape, chaperone, garnache, herigaut, gardecorps. 21
8 Slide 22 Fashion changes gradually grew more rapid, so that by the beginning of the 14 th Century, styles persisted for only part of the century. 9 th Century 9 th -11 th Century 9 th - 11 th Century 11 th Century 12 th Century 12 th Century Early 13 th Century 13th Century 22 Slide 23 For Further Study Museum Collections: Middle Ages Morgan Library, New York Metropolitan Museum, Permanent Collection, The Cloisters. Byzantine And Medieval Costume Sites Actual Medieval Costume Drawings Showing The Structure Of Medieval Costume Houston, M Medieval Costume in England and France, the Thirteenth, Fourteenth, and Fifteenth Centuries. Mineola, NY: Dover Publications. 23 Slide 24 Image Credits Image of Bliaut, courtesy of the NYC Public Library Digital Images Collection. Image of Middle Ages male in Coif, [ Images in this chapter courtesy of [ 7/26/05] and Fairchild Publications, Inc. 24
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