MINI TRICORN HAT PATTE BRIM CUT 1 BUCKRAM ADD 1CM AND EITHER CUT 2 MIN FABRIC OR CUT 1 MAIN FABRIC & CUT 1 CONTRASTING FABRIC CENTRE BACK LINE

Transcription

1 BRIM CUT 1 BUCKRAM ADD 1CM AND EITHER CUT 2 MIN FABRIC OR CUT 1 MAIN FABRIC & CUT 1 CONTRASTING FABRIC CENTRE BACK LINE CUT SMALL CENTRE OVAL OUT OPTIONAL CUT 1 BONDAWEB MINI TRICORN HAT PATTE A1

2 CROWN CUT 1 BUCKRAM OPTIONAL CUT 1 BONDAWEB CROWN LINING CUT 1 LINING RN A2

3 Fabric, notions and tool requirements. If buying fabric from the roll you need 1/3 yard or 0.3 M main fabric and but this pattern uses very little and a great way to use up remnants. Buckram is the tradtional structure fabric but I know many people use strong card if buckram is hard to find. Brim can be made soft if prefered, use denim or canvas in place of buckram. Bias Binding min 20mm wide (3/4 ) x Elastic for loops/headband x 20-30cm *8-12 ) Glue gun and contact adhesive. Latex glue is very useful for fabric if available. Bondaweb, to bond fabric to buckram. feathers, trims, 3 x buttons, wire optional. 1. Cut out the crown and crown sides in buckram, adding markings of quarter lines and overlap line on crown sides. Cut same bondaweb. Either cut brim in buckram or a more flexible fabric as required, eg denim, strong felt, wool. Cut brim in bondaweb x 2. Now using same crown and crown side pattern pieces add the extra seam allowances on patterns and cut in main fabric. Cut lining crown and crown sides. Using hot iron with no steam, bond the main fabric to buckram. For brim bond both sides same or contrasting Fold seam allowance over edges of buckram and either glue down (contact or latex glue). Or use bondaweb tape and bond with hot iron. Fold crown side to make ring, glue with glue gun or contact glue. Align crown to sides, pin & hot glue or sew together. fold fabric over this end buckram main fabric cut larger than buckram fold main fabric over buckram buckram fold fabric over buckram trim this end flush to buckram Mark centre ovals onto main fabric side with chalk or temporary pen. sew around large oval. Sew outer edge close to buckram edge & trim fabric close to buckram. starting at centre back add bias binding to edge. cut inside the oval to make tabs Next attach the brim to the crown. Check it is aligned correctly. I use a hot glue gun to attach but contact adhesive or latex can be start at the back and attach one tab. I then align centre front and glue this tab. Then carefully gue all the tabs, the stitched oval should sit perfectly on the edge of folded tabs. Next mark where the brim will fold. You need 3 evenly spaced marks on brim and crown sides. Check pattern if unsure. Diagram shows centre back view. the sides can be hot glued in place but I prefer to punch holes and use a button with shank. Loop a10cm piece wire through button shank & fold wire back on inside of hat. button wire A3

4 6. To decorate the hat you can let your imagination loose. Embellishments can be fixed to the hat itself or onto a hat band. The advantage of a hatband it that it can be changed. Also feathers can be attached to a hatband and removed for transporting. Hatbands can be soft ribbon or firmer to support the weight of trims. Velcro, buttons and press studs (poppers) can be used to fasten a removable hatband. 7. It takes some practice to trim a hat so arrange and re arrange your trims until you get the final look. Then fold the brim up and fix into place. 8. Press over seam allowance on one long edge of crown sides lining. Sew short ends together to make loop. Pin, baste and sew lining sides to lining crown. Diagram shows wrong side of lining before optional looped elastic sewn on. crown lining 9. Take loops of elastic and hot glue to inside of hat. Next part is optional to sew some looped elastic trim to lining before glueing or hand sewing lining to inside edge of hat. Glue loops in before lining showing lining in place with looped elastic around edge centre back seam folded edge Feather can be glued to broach backs to make it easy to remove and attach to hats. This allows for more complex arrangements that just placing into a hat band. A4

5 HAT BAND OPTIONAL CUT IN CROWN SIDES CUT 1 MAIN BUCKRAM ADD 1.5CM & CUT 1 MAIN FABRIC CROWN SIDES LINING CUT 1 LINING B1

6 FIRM FABRIC OR LEATHER OPTIONAL CUT 1 BONDAWEB B2

7 B3

8 B4