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1 Click anywhere in the slide to view the next item on the slide or to advance to the next slide. Use the buttons below to navigate to another page, close the presentation or to open the help page. Slide 1 c BC Check for updates on the web now! Slide 2 Map of the Ancient Middle East 2 Slide 3 Mesopotamia, site of the first civilizations in the Middle East: Early Sumerian: BC Later Sumerian and Babylonian: BC Assyrian: BC 3

2 Slide 4 Evidence for costume is mostly visual. What do we know? Sumerian Painted Jar Sumerian Gold Wig-Helmet Sumerian Figure Sumerian Tablet Sumerian Cylinder Seal 4 Slide BC: Early Sumerian men and women wore wrapped skirts, which they held in place with wide belts. Sumerian man and woman in kaunakes type garments 5 Slide 6 At first, skirts were probably made from sheepskin with fleece attached. Later, woven cloth had fringe at the bottom to imitate tufts of wool on fleece. The Greek word, kaunakes, has been applied to this fleece or fleece like fabric. 6

3 Slide 7 Cloaks provided protection against the weather. They were probably made from animal skins, leather, or heavy, felted cloth. 7 Slide 8 Men shaved their hair or wore it long, were bearded or clean-shaven. Women arranged their hair in a chignon or bun. Soldiers wore pointed helmets, perhaps made of leather. 8 Slide 9 Later Sumerian and Babylonia: BC styles evolved slowly. Gradually styles increased in complexity. Men and women s styles show greater differences. Women s dress now covers upper body. Kaunakes garment becomes associated with religious figures. 9

4 Slide 10 Rulers c BC were shown in wrapped garment and distinctive headdress. 10 Slide 11 Tunics were worn by men and women. 11 Slide 12 Shawls, woven rectangles or squares of fabric, were draped in various ways. Two possible arrangements of women s dress as analyzed by Houston(1964). 12

5 Slide 13 Before 2300 BC, men are shown both clean-shaven and with beards. Later men are depicted only with beards. 13 Slide 14 Assyrian leaders adopted the styles of the Babylonians and added to their decoration. Tunics replaced skirts and draped garments. 14 Slide 15 Royalty wore floor length tunics under long, fringed shawls that created horizontal, vertical, and diagonal arrangement of fringes. 15

6 Slide 16 Men were bearded, the hair and beard arranged in small curls perhaps made with curling irons. The King s beard was longer than that of other men, and supplemented with a false section. Lower-class men had shorter beards and hair. 16 Slide 17 Assyrian women s tunics had somewhat longer sleeves than men s. Fabrics were elaborately patterned. Women also wore fringed shawls draped around the body. 17 Slide 18 Accessories of Note: Among the hat styles was a high brimless hat similar to the Fez or Tarbush, a modern-day, traditional Arab style. Sandals had thicker or thinner soles. Earrings, bracelets, and armlets were worn. Decorative motifs used for jewelry often resembled those seen on pattern fabrics. 18

7 Slide 19 Soldiers wore a short tunic, a corselet of mail, and a wide belt. The mail was probably made by sewing small metal plates onto leather or heavy cloth. Helmets fit the head closely, coming to a peaked point at the back of the head. Both sandals and high boots were worn. 19 Slide 20 Earlier hairstyles for Assyrian women are elaborately arranged. Later styles were simplified to curly, shoulder-length hair. 20 Slide 21 The Egyptian civilization grew up along the Nile River. Old Kingdom: BC Middle Kingdom: c BC New Kingdom: BC 21

8 Slide 22 Most garments were woven from linen. 22 Slide 23 The undermost garment was a loin cloth. It might be the only garment worn by slaves and the poor. Click to visit Archaeology Magazine s Interactive Dig Website that discusses the anatomy of a loincloth. Be sure to click on all the pictures in this website as they enlarge. Click on the image to zoom in on loincloth 23 Slide 24 Over this, man might place a wrapped skirt, called by costume historians either a schenti, shent, skent, or schent. 24

9 Slide 25 Skirt length, width, and fit varied with different time periods and social class. Old Kingdom: the skirt was generally knee length or shorter, and fitted closely around the hips. Middle Kingdom: skirt elongated, sometimes reaching to the ankle, with shorter versions for work. If fabric was sheer, the loincloth is visible beneath the skirt. New Kingdom: the styles have pleated skirts, both shorter examples which tend to fit more closely, and long skirts that are quite full. 25 Slide 26 Aprons were worn over a skirt or other garment, or over a loin cloth and under a skirt. Large, triangular decorative panels are located at the front of some skirts. 26 Slide 27 Upper body coverings included real or simulated animal skins, thought to convey the power of the animal to the wearer. 27

10 Slide 28 During the Middle and New Kingdoms, short fabric capes fastened at center front." 28 Slide 29 A corselet was another type of upper body covering. 29 Slide 30 A wide necklace made from concentric circles of precious or semiprecious stones might be worn alone, over a linen gown, over a short cape, or with a corselet. 30

11 Slide 31 Many garments were worn by both men and women. Slaves and working class women wore skirts. 31 Slide 32 Beginning in the New Kingdom, men and women wore tunics, called kalasiris or calasiris. 32 Slide 33 Also, during the New Kingdom, men and women wore sheer pleated gowns. Click on image to demonstrate wrapping. Click on image to demonstrate wrapping. 33

12 Slide 34 Men and women wore wrapped garments throughout Egyptian history." Click on an image to demonstrate wrapping. 34 Slide 35 Women also wore a tight-fitting colorful dress, often called a sheath dress. Research suggests this was a wrapped garment with a bead net dress worn over it. Click the image to apply bead net dress over the wrapped garment. 35 Slide 36 One commonly worn garment for women was v-necked dress, with or without sleeves. 36

13 Slide 37 Many Egyptians had shaved heads; men were clean-shaven. Beards were a symbol of power, and both male and female pharaohs wore a small false beard." Statue of Hatshepsut with her fake beard. 37 Slide 38 Upper class Egyptians wore wigs. 38 Slide 39 Headdress was ceremonial and/or symbolic. Name of Style: Red White Pschent Hemhemet Blue Uraeus Falcon Nemes Flat Lock crown Crown or of or war Headdress Youth crown vulture of crown of Lower of Upper headdress Lower Egypt and Upper Egypt Worn by: Rulers Pharaohs Kings Queens Children Appears and from or on of who to queens; goddesses; the depictions symbolize used royal Old a to it family representation only the of shaped military rule Queen New rarely, over power like Kingdom; Nefertiti, lower upper Lower a of ceremonial bird or a Egypt and when cobra, of a scarf New prey like Upper occasions, going which with Kingdom construction the to was Egypt; wings war queen, a possibly symbol in consisted falling the that who New because of completely down apparently royal of Kingdom, a at power; combination it the was covered wore side this so could of this awkward the of be head the head, crowns and headdress worn covering unwieldy on and was of a over framing lower headband, fitted was a more shaved and across the upper often or face the head. as Egypt worn part temple, of that another hanging double down crown headdress to made the shoulder of molded behind leather and ears, decorated and with a long with gold tail at sequins, center back it had that a uraeus symbolized at the a center lion s tail; front. the shape of the Nemes head covering is similar to a simple, scarf like head covering owned by the Metropolitan Museum (See Figure Last Example 2.13 in the textbook) Click on the image to advance to the next example. 39

14 Slide 40 Make-up served both cosmetic and health purposes. Queen Nefertiti 40 Slide 41 Accessories of Note Sandals Jewelry 41 Slide 42 For Further Study Photographs Of Artifacts (search under virtual tour) Recommended References And Links On Mesopotamia Exhibition Of Objects From Ur Egyptian Dress Ancient Egyptian Life 42

15 Slide 43 For Further Study Other Web Sites Useful For Ancient Egypt Drawings Showing The Structure Of Mesopotamian And Egyptian Costume Houston, M. G Ancient Egyptian, Mesopotamian, and Persian Costume. Mineola, NY: Dover Publications. Vogelsang-Eastwood, G Pharaonic Egyptian Clothing. Leiden, The Netherlands: E. J. Brill. 43 Slide 44 Image Credits Painting of Mesopotamian City, courtesy of the Oriental Institute of the University of Chicago. Sumerian Figure, courtesy of Prewitt Allen Archaeological Museum, Corban College. Sumerian Tablet, courtesy of Kyle Pope, [ 7/7/05]. Sumerian Figure 2, courtesy of Kyle Pope, [ 7/7/05]. Image of the Green Nile, courtesy of David Haberlah, [ 7/7/05]. Image of the Temple of Menna, courtesy of Jon Bodsworth. Images of the Temple of Sennefer, courtesy of Jon Bodsworth. Image of Egyptian Sandal, courtesy of The University of Tennessee, The Frank H. McClung Museum, [ 7/7/05]. Various images in this chapter courtesy of Fairchild Library and [ 7/26/05]. 44