Handout. Preparation of the client for colour correction services

Transcription

1 Handout GH Preparation of the client for colour correction services It is important to ensure that the workstation is prepared and the client s clothing is well protected before colouring the hair. disposable colouring cape to be placed over the towel if required and tied securely to ensure that product cannot seep through While the gowning requirements will vary from one salon to another, as a minimum it is recommended that the routine below is followed: Work station chair to be clean and dry, worktop to be clean and tidy and free from hair products and equipment on display to be clean and free from dust and debris tools to be cleaned, disinfected and/or sterilised before use colouring trolley should be free moving i.e. the wheels are free from hair and debris the colouring trolley to be prepared with all necessary materials Client clean colouring gown to be placed on the client and properly secured ensuring the gown completely covers the client s clothing clean waterproof shoulder cape to be placed over the client s shoulders and tied in position clean towel to be placed around the client s shoulders and secured to prevent it from falling off The client s protective clothing should be replaced immediately if it absorbs any colouring products. ensure the client s clothing is properly protected make sure that the client s skin is protected carry out any necessary tests before the service takes place Always check the client s hair and scalp for contra-indications. It is also advisable to: carry out an extensive colour consultation record consultation outcomes and all test results State your salon s procedure for reparing clients for colouring services. Who is responsible for preparing your clients for colouring services in your own salon?

2 Handout GH The range of protective clothing that should be available for clients You must make sure that the client s clothing and skin are well protected before colouring the hair. Notes Protective clothing and materials used when colouring hair are: towels gowns waterproof gown shoulder capes barrier cream cotton wool Ensure that all protective clothing and materials are securely placed on the client and that the client is comfortable before proceeding with the colouring service. Pay particular attention to the need to change any protective materials that may become soiled with colouring products. When carrying out colour correction services, there may be several different stages to go through and protective clothing may need to be changed several times. Where would you apply barrier cream when colouring?

3 Handout GH The type of personal protective equipment (PPE) that should be available and used by yourself and why it is important to use it The Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) Regulations stem from the Health & Safety at Work Act and all workers must comply with the regulations. PPE relates to the protective clothing and materials used by workers. PPE does not include protective garments or materials used for clients. In colouring, the most commonly used PPE are: gloves aprons dust masks barrier cream Some salon workers have found that they are allergic to the latex that is found in protective gloves, therefore, the laws relating to PPE are being reviewed to make recommendations about the types of gloves that should be available. Employees have a duty to take care of the clothing and materials supplied and to report any that are damaged or stocks that are running low. This helps employers to know when to provide further supplies. As a member of staff in the salon it is your responsibility to ensure that junior members of staff who prepare and apply colours on your behalf are properly protected. You must always check that they wear PPE when working with colouring chemicals. Suggestion To encourage junior members of staff to wear PPE, tell them that the opportunity to apply colours may be withheld if they continue to disregard instructions. Any employee who fails to wear PPE when necessary is in breach of the Regulations. Dust masks can also be worn when mixing powder bleach to prevent inhalation of the fine dust particles. Notes Barrier cream can be worn to protect the hands from detergents or chemicals. The Regulations state that employers must provide suitable and sufficient protective clothing and materials and that employees must use these when necessary.

4 Handout GH Data Protection Act Any organisation that keeps information on record about people (staff or clients) must: register with the Information Commissioner s Office ensure that all information is accurate and up-to-date and kept secure restrict access to records to authorised people The reason why the Data Protection Act was introduced was to protect people from the possible results of inaccurate or out of date information being held on them this can affect a person s credit rating, medical treatments, or employment opportunities. If you are aware of a breach of the Act and take no steps to prevent further breaches then you will be held equally responsible in any claim for compensation. You should be cautious about sending information through the internet as not all countries have data protection legislation. There are increasing cases of the identities of people being cloned and false claims being made in a person s name. Be aware of individuals who pose as agencies who charge companies for data protection registration. There is no requirement to register with anyone other than the Information Commissioner. It is your direct responsibility to ensure that: clients personal details are not disclosed to an unauthorised person the information is adequate, relevant and not excessive the information is accurate and kept up-to-date they access the information on the record card for purposes relating only to the business Notes You have no right to access the information unless it is essential to allow you to provide hairdressing services to the client and that you must ensure that personal information is not mishandled or misused in any way.

5 Handout GH Your salon s and legal requirements for disposal of waste materials There are laws and bye-laws that require certain waste to be disposed of in specific ways. For example, sharps must be placed into a special container called a sharps box and this must be collected by the local council and disposed of in controlled conditions. This is to reduce the risk of accidents and to try to minimise the spread of infection. Notes The waste that is generated while colouring is usually: leftover colouring products used cotton wool and gloves used towels and gowns Any excess colour must be diluted with plenty of cold water before being flushed down the drain. Used cotton wool, disposable gloves and any other such waste should be disposed of in accordance with the salon s procedures. Most salons require that this type of waste is placed into a lidded bin and disposed of in the normal way with other rubbish.

6 Handout GH Control Of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) COSHH is one of the regulations that stem from the Health & Safety at Work Act. COSHH stands for Control of Substances Hazardous to Health and means that there have to be controls over the use of all chemicals or other substances that could cause damage to health or be a threat to the safety of the people using them. Note the difference between a hazard and a risk: a hazard is something that could be harmful a risk is when the chance of harm being caused is increased For example, a hair bleach is a hazard because it is a product that could damage the hair or skin. The risk of damage is increased if the hair bleach is allowed to get onto and lie on the scalp. This is called risk assessment. Salon owners must carry out a risk assessment to help them to decide the best way of controlling the substance and, therefore, of reducing the risk. When stylists do a risk assessment it can help them to identify the potentially harmful products in the salon and what to do in the case of: Your salon will have carried out a risk assessment of the products held or used within it and this will give you specific information about how to handle them and any precautionary requirements of the products. All salon workers must comply with the COSHH requirements to use, handle, store and dispose of hairdressing substances in accordance with salon policy, manufacturers instructions and local bye-laws. When helping less experienced members of staff to understand and remember the COSHH Regulations it may help if you use the acronym SHUD (Store, Handle, Use and Dispose of). They may find it easier to remember what the requirements are. Store Handle Use Dispose of colouring products COSHH tells you how you SHUD work. accidental spillage ingestion (swallowing) entry to the eyes damage to the skin

7 Handout GH Electricity at Work Regulations and why it is important to check electrical equipment used to aid the colour correction process The purpose of these regulations is to state that electrical equipment must be adequately maintained and checked by a qualified person. A written record of the equipment tests should be kept and should be made available for inspection. Notes It is important to visually check if the equipment is safe for use by checking the flex and the plug. The equipment should only be used for its intended purpose and you should make sure that you know how to use it. When you have finished with the equipment, switch off, remove from the power source, allow heated items to cool and store the equipment safely away. It is your responsibility to ensure that any faulty equipment that you find in your workplace is removed from use, labelled as faulty and reported to a relevant person*. *You may be the responsible person in your salon to whom other people will report faulty electrical equipment. If this is the case you must ensure: the labelled faulty electrical equipment is kept in a safe place to await repair or disposal name of the person reporting the fault and the date it was reported if it can be repaired, arrange for a qualified person to repair it if it cannot be repaired, carefully and safely dispose of the equipment following legal requirements

8 Handout GH How the position of the client and yourself can affect the desired outcome and reduce fatigue and the risk of injury and why it is important to position your tools for ease of reach You must make sure that you stand correctly when colouring if you are to minimise the risk of becoming very tired very quickly and possibly causing long term damage to your muscles. In addition, if your posture is correct, a better working position is achieved. You should stand with legs straight and feet slightly apart to maintain balance and even distribution of your weight. Keep both feet on the floor, don t stand on tip toes or balance on your heels. Try to remain relaxed, keep your head up and central and avoid stretching or bending. When you become tired you lose concentration. This causes you to become slower and less effective. Good positioning allows you to work on clients more easily and efficiently. Why it is important to position your tools and equipment for ease of use All of your tools and the equipment that you will need for colouring your client s hair should be readily available so that you can work more efficiently and effectively. It is important that your client is also positioned correctly if the client slouches and slides down into the chair you will have to bend to be able to reach the lower parts of the head. In addition, the client will soon become uncomfortable and tired. For colouring services the client may have to remain seated for quite a long time. Therefore, it is necessary that the client is in the correct position with their back placed against the chair for support and to ensure that they are comfortable. The client must be placed correctly at the basins for removal of colour and colouring materials especially when parts of the hair must remain undisturbed and continue to process. The client may soon become uncomfortable and may fidget and disturb the hair during this important stage and this can make colour seep onto areas where it shouldn t be and will cause unsatisfactory results. If you must repeatedly stop work to find something that you need, it will create an impression of inefficiency and your client may object. Having to stop work while you are colouring, especially if you are using hair bleach, will mean you take longer to complete the process and this may cause damage to the hair. All tools should be clean, free of hair, disinfected and/or sterilised and laid out on a clean work surface or trolley. The trolley should be set out so that all materials and tools are in their correct and logical place and can be easily reached. It looks untidy, unprofessional and slipshod when a trolley is badly prepared. Having tools within easy reach ensures a timesaving, smooth and efficient way of working throughout the service.

9 Activity Activity (1 of 2) GH Consultation Questions It is important to ask the client questions to identify potential contra-indications prior to the application of colour correction service. Part 1 List questions that could be asked during the consultation for colour correction

10 2)GH Activity Activity (2 of Consultation Questions Part 2 State the purpose of asking the question, i.e. what do you want to find out Recording the answers to the questions Some salons ask the questions orally and the stylists record the answers. Others ask clients to complete a questionnaire. If the client completes a questionnaire, they must date and sign it and the stylist must date and sign it after reading it and keep it attached to the client s record. State why it is important to sign and date the completed questionnaire.

11 3)GH Handout Handout (1 of Consultation Questions It is important to ask questions during the consultation with a client who requires colour correction services. At the same time, it is important for you to know why you are asking them. To find the colour history of the client: What chemical services have you previously had on your hair? This question is important in order to find out the chemical treatments that have been carried out on the hair. The types of chemical treatments that have been completed on the hair will also determine the skin or hair tests that will need to be carried out before the colouring service can take place. There may be products on the hair that would be incompatible with professional hair colourants. When was the last chemical service carried out? The answer will help to determine how damaged the hair is likely to be. The length of time since the previous chemical service will determine the skin or hair tests that will need to be carried out before the colour correction service can take place. The answer to this question can also indicate the rate of growth of the hair. You need to know that if there has been time to replace some of the hair s moisture and lubrication or if a colour has faded quickly. Have you ever been refused a colour service in the past? If the client has been refused a colour service in the past it may be because they have a history of hair in poor condition. In addition that they have had an allergic reaction. Sometimes clients fail to disclose this information in case you won t carry out the colour for them. Therefore, stylists must take all necessary steps to ensure that there is no risk to the client, the salon or to themselves. How often do you have your hair coloured? This question will help to establish how badly the hair may be damaged and the tests you have to carry out. Explain that the colour you see on the surface may be hiding a plethora of other colours underneath it. Some clients have their hair coloured in the salon and then apply more colours at home therefore, they need to ask Have you ever coloured your own hair? It is important to find out what the client has done to their hair at home, how often they have done it and how the colour has been applied.

12 3)GH Handout Handout (2 of Consultation Questions For example, when clients apply colour to their hair at home, if they are righthanded, then they often apply more colour to that side of the head. The same can be said for a left-handed person, where there may be a build up of colour on the lefthand side of the head. Do you have any known allergies? It is useful to ask this question as people with a disposition to allergies are often more sensitised to other products. Therefore, you may wish to apply a skin test for a product that would not normally require one. For example, a semipermanent colour. Fault finding questions How satisfied have you been with colour services in the past? This question is asked to establish if the client has a history of colour correction services. Some clients go from salon to salon, complaining about each one in turn. Therefore, the hair may be in poor condition from repeated colour correction services (and it may not be possible to please the client!). In addition, by asking this question it helps the stylist to avoid repetition of the problem. For example, if there was an area that didn t take well it may indicate a resistant patch and the stylist may decide to pre-soften that area. The answer will also help the stylist to decide what tests should be carried out. Who did the colour? Linking this to the previous question, the client may have been visiting unprofessional hairdressers, or may have been colouring their hair with nonprofessional products at home. Do you know what the colour was? It is important to identify if there will be any incompatibility problems. If the client knows the type of colour that was used, it may help to inform you about the course of action to take when correcting the colour problem. How was the colour applied and how long was the colour developed for? These questions will help to confirm what the colour was. This is particularly important when clients have coloured their own hair at home. The method of application can indicate whether the colour was permanent, quasi, or semipermanent. What were your expectations of the previous colour? The client may have a misunderstanding about what colours can do. For example, they may have very dark hair and expected their hair to be much lighter than it is, or they may have a great deal of hidden warmth, which is difficult to neutralise.

13 3)GH Handout Handout (3 of Consultation Questions Are you taking any medication at present? If the client is taking medication it means that they have a health problem that may influence their hair it may slow down or speed up the rate of growth, or it may cause the hair to become resistant or receptive. Be aware that medication will not affect the hair immediately the client begins to take it. It must be taken into the hair from the bloodstream and it may take months before the affected hair reaches the length that a stylist will be working on it. This also means that stylists must take into account the time that has elapsed since the client stopped taking the medication the effects may still be in the hair. Has your doctor told you or do the medication s instructions say that you should not have a colour done? If the client has received instruction not to have a colour treatment done then the stylist must not provide this service there may be incompatibility problems, or the colour result may not meet expectations. Problem solving questions Do you want to go lighter /darker/ warmer/cooler etc. than the colour you are at present? The answer to this question will determine the colour(s) that will be used to correct the colour problem. Are you about to go on a holiday where your hair colour may be affected by sun, sea and sand? The answer to this question helps you to advise the client on how to look after their hair and the hair colour. You should be able to make recommendations about the best products to use to reduce colour fade, loss of moisture and increased porosity. Notes

14 Handout GH The legal significance of client questioning and of recording the clients responses. As a salon worker, you are legally obliged to take reasonable care when carrying out hairdressing treatments and services. Notes As part of the reasonable care necessary, you need to: ask appropriate questions related to the proposed service or treatment record client responses only use products you are competent to use follow manufacturers instructions for their usage In hairdressing and barbering, chemicals that have the potential to cause serious damage to the hair and scalp are being used every day. In addition, psychological damage can be caused to clients who receive a bad hair experience. Remember that claims for compensation are frequently reported in newspapers and we are increasingly living in a blame culture. A salon s reputation could be irreparably damaged by a claim for compensation. This is why it is imperative to ask sufficient and relevant questions. You must have an insurance policy in place that will cover you when working on clients. Your salon owner or manager should arrange this, however you may have responsibility for this yourself.

15 Handout GH The safety considerations when colour correcting hair You must follow the basic rules relating to safety when you carry out colouring services. If you fail to do this you may cause damage to the hair, scalp or skin. The client may sue for compensation if any damage occurs, which, if you have not followed the basic rules of safety, you would lose. Ensure that your client s clothing and skin are properly protected, that you protect yourself by wearing Personal Protective Equipment (PPE). In addition, check that anyone who assists you to apply or remove the colouring products or materials is properly protected by wearing PPE. You must make sure that you follow all safety considerations when colouring hair. The minimum safety considerations are: to carry out all necessary tests to protect the client, themselves and junior members of staff who help them to read and follow manufacturers instructions to make sure that the assistant understands and follows manufacturers instructions to properly supervise assistants who help with applying products and materials to ensure thorough removal of products during and at the end of the service to supervise assistants removing products, ensuring the removal is thorough Make sure that all necessary tests are carried out to avoid damage to hair or skin and to verify that you can achieve the required result. Always check the manufacturer s instructions to remind yourself of exactly what they say. This is very important even if you have used the product before. Mistakes can happen and instructions can be amended or altered at any time. It is better to spend a minute or two to read the instructions, than to run the risk of making an error. Confirm your assistant s understanding of the manufacturers instructions to ensure that they have not misread or misinterpreted them. Check their understanding of the removal process as well as the application method as some colour products can cause creeping oxidation if they are not properly removed from the hair. This results in the colour going lighter or darker and can affect the condition of the hair. You should supervise both the application and the removal processes to ensure that each is properly carried out if an assistant is helping you with your work. Remember that the client s hair and the results of the colouring correcting service are your responsibility

16 Handout GH The importance of keeping your work area clean and tidy One of the first impressions formed by a client is of the appearance of the salon. This can happen even before they speak to a member of staff. The client may even have gained an impression by looking through the window in the evening, when the salon was closed. As a stylist or barber it benefits you and the salon to maintain high, professional, standards of appearance. This applies to your own appearance as well as to your work area. If your work area is untidy and dirty the client is likely to think that they are not going to get a good service. If it is always clean and tidy it will create a professional image of the salon and of you. Summary The reasons why work areas should be left clean and tidy are: to maintain your and the salon s professional image to minimise the risk of cross-infection to reduce hazards Discuss with your trainer and colleagues methods of keeping a salon clean. For example, allocating jobs to staff. Remember that, as a senior member of staff, you should be setting a good example to less experienced staff. Bacteria will multiply in a dirty work area and infections are likely to be spread between clients and stylist. You have a professional duty to provide a hygienic environment for clients and by so doing you will minimise the risk of spreading infection. Notes Another aspect of an untidy work area is that it often contains hazards loose, trailing wires, sharp cutting tools within easy reach or towels and gowns draping over chairs. By keeping work areas tidy the hazards are reduced.

17 Handout GH Methods of working safely and hygienically and which minimise the risk of cross-infection and cross-infestation The Health & Safety at Work Act requires that all people work safely. This is to help prevent accidents. You also have a duty to your clients and work colleagues to provide a hygienic environment. This is to reduce the spread of disease. carefully and thoroughly remove all colouring and lightening products and materials at the appropriate times - or ensure that those who remove products and materials are aware of the requirements for removing them There are many things to consider to be sure that you are working safely and hygienically and these include positioning yourself so that you don t have to stretch or bend. This avoids muscle strain Working safely you must ensure that you: dispose of different types of waste according to local bye-laws and salon requirements read and follow the manufacturers instructions for the use of products and equipment position the client to ensure that they are comfortable to avoid muscle strain always carry out the necessary tests before and during a colouring service to help avoid damage to the hair, skin or scalp and to ensure satisfactory results properly supervise colleagues who help you with the colouring or lightening process Working hygienically You must: keep your work area clean and tidy throughout the service always use clean gowns, towels and capes on clients sterilise all tools before using them on clients By following the above guidelines you can help to ensure that you work safely and hygienically and that clients can have their hair done in a healthy, safe and hygienic salon. protect yourself by wearing ppe gloves and apron (and face mask when mixing powder bleach)

18 Handout GH The importance of personal hygiene The most important thing a client wants when they come to a salon is good service. If the stylist or barber provides a good service to a high standard then the client is likely to return. However, if the stylist or barber does not ensure that their personal hygiene is of the same high standard as their hairdressing or barbering the client may not come back. Body odour (BO) can be the result of insufficient cleanliness. Human skin contains sweat glands that secrete waste in the form of sweat. Bacteria need warm, moist conditions to be able to multiply. There are lots of harmless bacteria in the sweaty, warm folds of the body, for example, the groin and in the armpits. When bacteria die they decompose, they decay and this is what causes odour. If a person washes thoroughly at least every 24 hours and changes their clothing it is unlikely that they will have BO. All clothing that comes into contact with the skin, especially the type that is in contact with the armpits and groin, must be changed once a day. The clothing absorbs sweat and if this is not washed or dry cleaned out of the fabric it will smell. Oral hygiene must be maintained by frequently brushing your teeth and visiting the dentist regularly to ensure that you have no decaying teeth. Bad teeth can cause bad breath. Hands and nails will be in full view of the client, therefore they must always be clean. If nail varnish is worn it should not be chipped. Hairdressing is a very personal service and the personal hygiene and appearance of the people who work in the industry is of great importance. You must pay close attention to: Hygiene daily shower or bath the use of antiperspirants and deodorants oral (mouth) hygiene Appearance hair and make-up hands and nails shoes jewellery posture Some people try to cover the smell of unwashed skin or clothing by using deodorants. It is not possible to do this the odour is still noticeable to others although the person themselves may not be aware of it. Antiperspirants and deodorants are designed to be used on clean skin and should never be applied to unwashed skin.

19 Handout GH Methods of cleaning, disinfection and/or sterilisation used in salons Cleaning ensure that all work areas are wiped down with disinfectant regularly throughout the day ensure that towels, gowns and capes which come into contact with customers are clean and only used once before being washed on a high temperature cycle remove any loose hairs from combs and brushes then wash in warm soapy water to remove any products, dirt and grease before disinfecting or sterilising the tools. Cleaning the tools before placing them in a disinfectant jar helps to prevent contamination of the disinfectant solution. Moist heat this is a very effective method of sterilising all tools moist heat is created by the use of an autoclave which heats water to a very high temperature higher than boiling it creates super-heated steam - hot enough to quickly kill most common bacteria found in salons small, hand-held tools are put into the autoclave, sealed and the water inside is brought to the required temperature the temperature is maintained for the time necessary to ensure that all bacteria are dead then the water is allowed to cool before the tools are removed the main disadvantage of this method of sterilisation is you need to have sufficient supplies of tools to allow you to work on other clients while the autoclave is in use and you must buy combs that can withstand very high temperatures if they are to go into the autoclave Dry heat this method of sterilisation is rarely used in salons there are now pre-packed towels available that have been sterilised by this means high temperatures (of dry heat) are created in an oven glass bead sterilisers can be used to sterilise small metal tools the disadvantage is that although bacteria are effectively killed by this method tools can be damaged because they are held in the heat for an extended time Chemical - disinfectant often used in salons and are effective if used correctly tools are required to be washed before placing into the disinfectant solution they must be left in the disinfectant long enough for it to do its job the disinfectant must fully cover the item and may take up to an hour to disinfect as with using an autoclave, salon workers must have enough tools to allow for the time to disinfect UV light rays: uses ultraviolet (UV) light rays to kill bacteria the tools must be cleaned then placed into the UV cabinet the UV light sterilises those areas that it reaches the items will require turning so that all surfaces are treated this method is not recommended and is more suitable for tools that have previously been disinfected or sterilised

20 Handout GH The types and purposes of tests in the range When conducting tests, the client should be informed of what the hairdresser or barber is doing to their hair and why they are doing it. This information must be given using nontechnical language. It is very important that the client is aware that you are carrying out the tests and taking due care when dealing with their hair. The types and purposes of the tests in the range and when they should be done Elasticity test Done to identify the condition of the cortex. Indicates if the cortex is damaged. Must be completed before the start of the colour service Skin test Colour test Strand test Notes Indicates potential allergy to para compounds. Must be completed 48 hours before the start of the colour service Done to confirm that the required results are achievable. Usually done from a cutting taken prior to the appointment Done to check the development of colour or bleach applications Done during the colour or bleach development time Porosity test Indicates the condition of and any damage to the cuticle. Must be completed before the start of the colour service Incompatibility Done to identify the Test presence of metallic salts in the hair. Must be completed before the start of the colour service

21 Activity Activity (1 of 2) GH18.3.2a Hair tests for colour correction services Your trainer will explain (or remind you) how the range of tests that are required when completing colour correction services should be carried out. Complete the activity as your trainer explains the tests. Elasticity test You will see that hair stretches more when wet than when dry. Why is this? Porosity test What causes the variation in porosity? How porosity can be evened out Incompatibility test Describe a negative result to an incompatibility test Why is it important to use liquid peroxide in an incompatibility test? Skin test State the results of a negative skin test

22 Activity Activity (2 of 2) GH18.3.2a Colour test Can you think of an example when you would have to take a cutting from the roots to the points of the hair? Strand test How does the strand test for colour development differ from the strand test for the development of bleach?

23 Handout GH How tests should be carried out and the expected results Elasticity test Supporting the hair at the root, take a few hairs between your fingers and stretch them gently. The hairs should stretch slightly and then return to their normal length. The hair will stretch more if it is wet. Porosity test Hold one or two dry hairs at the points then run the fingers of your other hand down the shaft towards the roots. The hair should feel smooth if it is in good condition. Hair that feels rough may be porous. Very curly hair and African type hair can feel rough due to the unproduction of keratin along the hair shaft. Incompatibility test Take a small cutting of hair from an area of the head where it will not be noticed. Place the cutting into a non-metallic bowl containing 20 parts hydrogen peroxide and 1 part ammonium hydroxide. Leave for up to 30 minutes. Nothing should happen this is a positive result. If the hair changes colour, if the solution heats up, bubbles, fizzes, etc. the result is negative. Skin test Prepare a small amount of the proposed colourant either mix with the intended strength of hydrogen peroxide or use unmixed colourant according to the manufacturer s instructions. Using surgical spirit on a piece of cotton wool, clean a small area of skin behind the ear or in the fold of the elbow. Place a smear of the colour on the cleansed area and ask the client to leave the area undisturbed for 48 hours. When the client attends for the colour, check the test area if any redness, itchiness, breaks in the skin or other signs of a skin reaction are present this is a positive result. If no changes have occurred, this is a negative result. Colour test Take a small cutting of hair from a part of the head where it will not be noticed. Prepare small amounts of the colour(s) that you propose to use to achieve the required result. Apply and process these according to manufacturer s instructions and check the results. If using more than one colour you must clearly label each test cutting to avoid mistakes being made. Strand test Using the back of a comb or a small piece of cotton wool, remove the colour or bleach from small strands of the hair. Check the colour development the expected result is the desired shade.

24 Activity GH18.3.2b Testing Hair You are to carry out a range of tests on hair. Your trainer will have provided you with a range of hair swatches of hair of differing conditions and will explain how to carry out the tests. Carry out the following tests on the hair samples: incompatibility test strand test elasticity test porosity test On your colleagues or on a member of your salon staff, carry out the following tests: elasticity test porosity test skin test Attach the results of some of the tests to this sheet and use to support some of your evidence for your NVQ/SVQ. Elasticity test Porosity test Incompatibility test Colour test You can make comments about the tests on the back of this activity sheet.

25 Handout GH The importance of following manufacturers instructions for skin testing Explain to learners that the reasons why it is important to follow manufacturers instructions for skin testing are to: Notes identify any allergic reactions maintain the professional image of the salon fulfil their responsibilities relating to health & safety and other legislation These are the main reasons but you need to be aware that there is a further consideration - manufacturers can only be held liable in a case for compensation if their instructions have been followed.

26 Activity GH Skin Tests Your trainer will provide you with a selection of manufacturers instructions relating to colouring and lightening. Look at each manufacturer s instructions for skin testing. Are the instructions clear and concise? Think of the types of clients on whom a skin test must be carried out: For example: eczema asthma other allergies When carrying out your consultation, ensure you ask about any known allergies they may have. You should include those clients who: have never had a permanent colour before have never had a quasi colour before are changing to another brand or type of colour are new to the salon (even if they have had a colour before) have had a colour that has grown out more than 8cms (1 1 /2 inches) Notes a skin test can also be known as a: patch test pre-disposition test allergy test Sabouraud-Rousseau test hypersensitivity test It is important to remember that the types of clients who more commonly have allergies to colour are predisposed to other conditions.

27 Handout GH How the results of tests can influence the colour correction service The results of tests are very important and must be considered when colouring or lightening hair. There is no point in doing a test if you don t base your decisions on the result. In most tests, a positive result is a good result. There is one exception to this skin testing. If a skin test is positive it means that the client is allergic to the product and the service must not be done. Elasticity test If the results are positive then the service can be done. A positive result means that the hair stretches then returns to its normal length. This indicates that the cortex is in good condition. If the hair breaks or remains stretched then it means that the cortex is damaged. In this case, colour correction services which require the use of hydrogen peroxide must not be done. Porosity test A positive result for this test is that the hair feels smooth. This means that the cuticle is in good condition. The service can be provided. If the cuticle feels rough then this tells you that it is damaged. Applying colour to hair with different rates of porosity without using a porosity leveller will lead to an uneven, unsatisfactory result. Incompatibility test If an incompatibility test is negative then it means that no adverse reaction occurs. This tells you that you can proceed with the colour service. If there is an increase in temperature of the chemical, if the hair or liquid changes colour or if there is any bubbling or fizzing then it means that there are metallic salts on the hair. You must not carry out the colour correction service. Strand test The result of this test is important because the colour result may not meet the client s requirements. A positive result simply means that the test colour has reached the desired degree of development and the colour or bleach should be removed. If there is a negative result it means that development is not complete and further development time must be allowed. Skin test A positive result following a skin test indicates that the client is allergic to the para compounds found in permanent colours. A positive result shows signs of redness, swelling, irritation, weeping or soreness. Colours containing para compounds must not be allowed to come into contact with the skin. Colour test This needs to be discussed with the client; is the result what they expect or do they expect something different? Has the condition of the hair been maintained or has damage occurred? If the desired results are achieved then the result is positive and colour correction used for the test can be used to provide the service. If the colour is unsatisfactory then it is a negative result and further testing should be done to determine the best product.

28 Handout GH The potential consequences of failing to carry out tests and why it is important to record test results Test not carried out Likely damage Consequences Elasticity Further damage to the cortex Condition of the hair may deteriorate. Loss of elasticity. Hair breakage. Client may take legal action. Porosity Incompatibility test Skin test Strand test Colour test Further damage to the cuticle The hair may change colour Damage to the hair structure No damage to hair, but possible damage to skin and body Unsatisfactory colour result Unsatisfactory colour result Condition of the hair may deteriorate. Uneven colour correction result. Client may take legal action. Condition of the hair may deteriorate. Disintegration of the hair. Client may take legal action. Client may be allergic to the chemicals found in some colours. Contact dermatitis. Severe swelling of the face and scalp. Anaphylactic shock. Client may take legal action. Colour may over or under process. Damage to the hair and scalp. Client may take legal action. Client may not return to salon. Business lost. Damage to salon reputation. Recording test results It is important that you record the results of all tests so that: you have information about the condition of the client s hair, the service that can be provided and the products to use if litigation arises, you have documented evidence to support your case good background information is available for future reference the professional image of the salon is maintained

29 Activity GH Problem Solving Record the solution to the problem on the activity sheet. Problem Solution A client has had a skin test and after 48 hours the skin looks red and the client says it has been itchy. A new client to the salon says they have had colour for 20 years and has never had a problem. They do not have time to come back for a skin test. During an elasticity test there is some breakage at the ends of a client s medium length hair and the mid-lengths remain stretched. During an incompatibility test bubbling is seen in the bowl. The client insists that there is no colour on their hair. The porosity varies greatly along the length of below shoulder hair. The client s hair is too light for them and they wish to go darker.

30 Activity GH Problem Solving - Answer Guide Problem A client has had a skin test and after 48 hours the skin looks red and the client says it has been itchy. A new client to the salon says they have had colour for 20 years and has never had a problem. She does not have time to come back for a skin test. During an elasticity test there is some breakage at the ends of a client s medium length hair and the mid-lengths remain stretched. Solution do not proceed with the colour this client is still new to your salon. They must have a skin test and follow your salon policy failing to carry out a skin test may mean you are liable for any resulting allergy problems do not proceed with any colouring or bleaching service. advise a series of restructuring treatments or penetrating conditioners During an incompatibility test bubbling is seen in the bowl. The client insists that there is no colour on their hair. do not proceed metallic salts likely to be present which would react badly with normal hair colouring products The porosity varies greatly along the length of below shoulder hair. The client s hair is too light for them and they wish to go darker. following pre-pigmentation advise the use of a quasi colour. The molecules of a quasi colour tend to remain in hair better than permanent colourants due to variability of size so fading is reduced use a pre-colour treatment to even out the porosity or advise a series of conditioning treatments to improve the condition of the cuticle before a colour application take a test cutting to check for even results before carrying out any colour service

31 Handout Handout (1 of 2) GH The dangers associated with the inhalation of powder bleach Many bleaches are made of very fine powder that can be very dangerous if inhaled. In some cases, the powder is so fine that more of it than may be imagined can be inhaled without the person coughing or being uncomfortable. You need to be aware that precision, care and attention are all required when working with bleach. Bleaching hair is a task during which human error can result in damage to the client s hair, scalp and sometimes their psychological state. Before the bleach reaches the lungs the powder must pass through the mouth, nose and respiratory tract. Few stylists take this into consideration and they assume that if they didn t cough it hasn t reached their lungs so it won t have done any damage. Therefore, it is advisable to wear a face mask when preparing powder bleach. PPE must be worn when applying bleach and the client s clothing must be protected. You must ensure you carry out all the relevant tests before applying bleach to hair. Tests prior to application: Summary the main dangers associated with the use of powder bleach are: elasticity porosity incompatibility damage to the lungs damage to the mucous producing tissues of the mouth and nose damage to the respiratory tract Some manufacturers now produce a dust free bleach powder which is suitable for use without a mask. How to use bleach safely and the precautions to be taken when handling powder bleach Test during application development test The strength of hydrogen peroxide used depends on the degree of lift required and say that the higher the strength the greater the potential damage to the hair (and scalp). You must remember that if bleach is to be applied to the scalp, only a mild solution should be used. Powder bleach is not normally gentle enough to be put onto the scalp; oil or emulsion bleach is less harsh.

32 GH Handout Handout (2 of 2) Remember that body heat will lead to a quicker development of bleach applied at the root area. Notes When you apply bleach in a regrowth treatment, the application must not overlap as this could cause breakage of the hair. Your application must be quick and methodic - the quicker the application the more even the result. You must not leave bleach unattended. Unlike colour development, bleach will continue to develop until it is rinsed from the hair. As with any product, you must read and follow manufacturers instructions. In particular, you must not add heat to develop the bleach unless specifically instructed to do so. Ensure you remove all traces of bleach when processing is completed. Any bleach left in the hair will continue to process and will cause damage to the hair and/or scalp.

33 Handout Handout (1 of 2) The principles of colour selection GH Before you can make a decision about a colour for a client s hair, you must understand the principles on which hair colouring is based. The colour spectrum is made up of seven colours and these are arranged in a specific order: red orange yellow green blue indigo violet For hairdressing and barbering purposes, the last two colours, indigo and violet, have been combined and are referred to as violet or mauve. The three primary colours of pigment are: red yellow blue The secondary colours of pigment are: orange green violet Primary colours cannot be made by mixing other colours but the secondary colours can be made by mixing primary colours. For example: Orange = a mix of red and yellow Green = a mix of yellow and blue violet = a mix of blue and red The International Colour Chart The colour wheel or star is very important when choosing colour in the salon. The colour star forms the basis of the International Colour Chart (ICC). All major colour manufacturers colours are based on this and most shade charts include a colour wheel or star. The ICC is a coding system and is used to: select colours for clients identify the depth and tone of natural hair and artificial colour The charts are used internationally so a colourist in one country is able to identify the shade to use to match a client s existing colour, even although a different manufacturer s colour range is used and no client record is available. If the client s hair colour needs to be corrected then the ICC and the colour wheel or star are very important because these help the stylist or barber to identify the best colour to use to achieve the desired effect.

34 GH Handout Handout (2 of 2) Summary The principles of colour selection are: the colour wheel or star shows six colours of the spectrum in their correct order the three primary colours are red, yellow and blue the three secondary colours are orange, green and violet Remember that by moving around the wheel or star they can make colour, by moving across, through the centre point, the colours neutralise each other.

35 Handout GH The principles of colour correction There are only three types of colour correction: to lighten hair that is too dark to darken hair that is too light to neutralise unwanted tones The broad outlines of the correction process are: Problem Hair too dark Hair too light Neutralising unwanted tones Solution Remove dark colour by oxidation or reduction process Darken hair to required depth by replacing pigment lost during lightening process Use colour star to identify a colour to cancel out unwanted tones As with any hair service, the colour correction process begins with a comprehensive consultation with the client. The consultation should include: finding out the client s requirements to be lighter, darker, to neutralise unwanted tones identifying the method in which to carry out the colour correction identifying the natural and artificial colour present on the hair ensure that the requirements can be met, for example, it may not be possible to achieve the required degree of lightness without causing excessive damage check the condition of the hair - porosity and elasticity tests carry out all other necessary tests incompatibility test, skin test take into account the skin tone, type, texture and density of hair record the test results and answers the client has given to questions about the previous colour process determine the products and peroxide strengths to use for the colour correction

36 Handout GH What is meant by the term oxidation Put simply, the term means: oxidation is the introduction of oxygen Oxidation During the permanent colouring process, the artificial colour pigment molecules become trapped inside the cortex. This happens when the hydrogen peroxide that is mixed with the colour releases oxygen, which oxidises the pigment. The molecules of pigment then become enlarged and are trapped inside the cortex of the hair making the colour permanent. This means that if the client does not like the colour, it cannot be removed by washing. Remember, you must not become confused by the names of the chemicals and what the chemicals give. Remember hydrogen peroxide does not give off hydrogen. Notes Reduction is the opposite to Oxidation Because the permanent colour molecules are too large to be washed from the hair, they need to be broken down. This is done by a process of reduction. When hydrogen is introduced into artificially coloured hair it attaches to the oxygen in the colour pigment molecule and removes it, thus allowing the enlarged molecule to become small enough to escape from the cortex.

37 Handout GH Type and distribution of melanin Human hair contains up to four colour pigments that are separated into two main groups of pigment called Notes melanin (brown or black) pheomelanin (red or yellow) The black pigment molecules are the largest, brown are next in size followed by red then yellow the smallest. The colour of the hair is dependent on the quantity of these pigments throughout the cortex. if there is a predominance of red and yellow pigments the hair will appear to be golden red if there is a proportion of brown pigments distributed through the red and yellow then the yellow is likely to be overshadowed by the brown and the colour will appear to be auburn, copper or mahogany, depending on the amounts of the different pigments that are present if there are also some black pigments present the hair will look brown with red glints

38 Activity GH How the type and distribution of melanin creates natural hair colour In natural hair colour, the size of the molecule varies depending on the colour of the pigment. The black and brown pigments are larger that the red and yellow pigments. You can see a similar effect when you compare brown demerara and white caster sugar. The activity Part 1 Part 2 1. Place the second measured amount of demerara sugar in another clear glass container. 2. Slowly add the caster sugar, mixing it thoroughly as you go. Take note of how much caster sugar is used before the colour change is noticeable. Discuss the results with your trainer and your colleagues. Measure out two equal quantities of demerara sugar and two equal quantities of caster sugar. 1. Place one of the measured amounts of caster sugar in a clear glass container. 2. Slowly add the demerara sugar from one of the measured amounts to the caster sugar, stirring it or shaking the glass to ensure they are properly mixed. Notes Take note of how much demerara sugar is used before the colour effect in the glass is changed.

39 Handout Handout (1 of 2) The effects of light and artificial lighting on the appearance of hair colour GH The natural light from the sun contains many colours but the human eye cannot see all of them - it can only see seven. These are the colours that make up the visible spectrum: red orange yellow green blue indigo violet When these colours are combined we have white light daylight. The individual colours of the visible spectrum can be seen if light is passed through a prism. This splits light into its colours and we can see seven of them. Every time you look at a rainbow you are looking at the seven colours of the visible spectrum. To help you remember the order of the visible spectrum use the following pneumonic: Richard Of York Gave Battle In Vain Colour is seen through a process of reflection and absorption. The colour we actually see is produced by light reflecting off a surface. If all the colours of the visible spectrum are reflected, the object looks white and if all of the colours are absorbed the object looks black. If one colour is reflected and the other colours are absorbed it is the colour that is reflected that we see. Hair colour is a reflection of the colour pigments within it. If hair is auburn it means that there is a predominance of red in it. The light will reflect this red whilst absorbing the blue and violet end of the spectrum. However, ash hair will absorb more reds and yellows to leave the cooler blues reflected. Artificial light may not contain all the colours of the visible spectrum (or natural white light). It may contain all of the colours but in incorrect proportions and the colour that we see (the colour that is reflected from a surface) is dependent on the proportions of colour that are emitted from the light source. Therefore, bad lighting can dramatically change the result of a client s colour service. The yellowish light given by domestic light bulbs increases the warmth seen in the hair and can make it look brassy. The bluish light from fluorescent tubes can make the hair look cooler and absorb warmth, making the hair look matt.

40 GH Handout Handout (2 of 2) Photographers can use different lights and filters to change the look of the colour completely. The best way to let a client view their colour is in natural daylight. Therefore, if your salon does not have a source of natural light, take them outside to see the colour result of the service. Notes

41 Handout Handout (1 of 2) How Oxidation agents affect the natural and artificial colour pigment Lighteners are bleach preparations that work by oxidation. They will not only lighten the artificial colour but also the natural hair colour. Tell the learners that the regrowth area should be avoided. The lightener is mixed with hydrogen peroxide. After application the hair will swell causing the cuticle to lift. The lightening agent can then penetrate to the cortex where the oxygen works on the pigment to lighten the hair. Remember: when hydrogen peroxide is mixed with a lightener or colour this activates the oxidation process. The amount of melanin and/or pheomelanin in the hair determines: GH the best products to use the amount of lift that can be achieved the strength of hydrogen peroxide to use If the hair contains a lot of melanin, black and brown pigment, the colour will look quite dark. If the client wishes to achieve a light colour it may be necessary to use bleach rather than tint. The reason for this is that permanent colours, even the highlift tints, can only lift a certain number of shades. The number of shades of lift that can be achieved by a tint varies from manufacturer to manufacturer but many manufacturers state that a normal tint will lift to a maximum of three shades, a high-lift tint may lift up to four or sometimes five shades. The following chart can be used as a guide only: Product Amount of lift Hydrogen peroxide Bleach toner None 3% 1 (10 Volume) Standard tint None 6% 2 (20 Volume) Standard tint Up to three shades 9% 2 (30 Volume) High-lift tint Four/five shades 9% 3 (30 Volume) Bleach Up to six shades 9% 4 (30 Volume) 1 When hair is toned after bleaching, 3% (10 Vol) is sufficient to prevent increased porosity. 2 The strength will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

42 Handout Handout (2 of 2) GH It is not always necessary to increase the strength of hydrogen peroxide to achieve a greater amount of lift when using high-lift tint because the tint provides the extra lift. However, some manufacturers may require a higher peroxide strength to be used. 4 If the bleach is not touching the scalp, some manufacturers may allow 12% (40 Vol) to be used. Always use a shade chart to match and identify the client s natural and artificial colours.

43 Handout GH18.4.7a The effects on the hair of different colour correction products Type Lasting time Part of hair affected Effect on hair structure Temporary - They do not penetrate the cuticle, their large molecules coat the surface of the hair. They are removed by one shampoo. The colour may last longer on hair that is porous. 1 shampoo Cuticle Coats the surface of the hair cuticle A skin test is not required Semi-permanent - These require no mixing. The colour is deposited on the cuticle and the outer cortex. Semipermanent colours cannot lighten the hair, they can only darken or change the tone. The colour fades each time the hair is shampooed. They cannot cover white hairs but will blend in a small amount. 6 shampoos Cuticle and outer cortex Small colour molecules which pass under the cuticle are gradually washed out A skin test is not normally required as the product should not come into contact with the scalp. However, for clients with a history of allergy, a skin test is recommended. Quasi-permanent - These are mixed with a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide usually 3% or 10 volume. They can lighten the hair very slightly and they add tone which gradually fades over shampoos. Quasi colours can disguise some white hair. They should be treated as permanent hair colour. A skin test is always required. Up to 24 shampoos can leave a slight regrowth Cortex Different sized molecules mixed with weak hydrogen peroxide enter the cortex, some oxidise, enlarge and become trapped Permanent colour - These are used to cover white hair, to lighten hair up to three shades and to produce fashion and fantasy effects. Some permanent colours have high lift properties and can lighten hair up to four or five shades. Permanent colours are mixed with hydrogen peroxide. A skin test is always required. Grows out Cortex Small colour molecules mixed with hydrogen peroxide enter deeply into the cortex, they oxidise, enlarge and become trapped Lightener - Can be used to create shades of blonde or to pre-lighten very dark hair to achieve a lighter base onto which a permanent colour can be applied. Lightiener is always mixed with an oxidising agent such as hydrogen peroxide. The stronger the hydrogen peroxide, the greater degree of lift that will be achieved. Grows out Cortex Melanin is oxidised by the bleach so that it gradually changes from coloured melanin to colourless oxymelanin A skin test is not required.

44 Handout GH18.4.7b The effects of colour and lightener on the hair structure Temporary colour Large colour molecules on the outside of the cuticle Semi-permanent colour Large and small colour granules penetrate the cortex and lie on the outer edge of the cortex Quasi colour The addition of a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide allows colour to enter the cortex. Permanent colour Tiny colour granules are mixed with hydrogen peroxide. The colour granules well and become trapped in the cortex. Lightener Natural colour molecules (melanin) are oxidised to form colourless oxy-melanin

45 GH Handout Handout (1 of 2) Effects of temperature on the application and development of colour correction products Hair colours and hair lighteners work by the process of oxidation. If oxidation does not take place then no change happens to the client s hair colour. Heat helps oxidation to occur by speeding up the chemical reaction. A simple way of thinking about it is to think of dissolving sugar - it will dissolve quickly in hot water but very slowly in cold water. If the salon is warm, the lightener or colour will develop quickly but if the salon is cool the process will slow down and development will take longer. If heat from an accelerator or similar equipment is added then the process will be speeded up. Some stylists and barbers forget about the effect of body heat. The heat from the scalp will radiate out to approximately one centimetre ( 1 /2 inch) and this can have a marked effect on development of the product that is close to the roots. On virgin hair, due to the effect of body heat, the product should be applied to the mid-lengths and ends then the stylist or barber should go back and apply to the roots. By doing this an even effect will be achieved. If the colour or lightener is applied straight through on a virgin head roots to points, then the roots are likely to be lighter or brighter than the rest of the hair. When carrying out a virgin head colour application you must remember how far out from the scalp the heat can travel, i.e. 1 cm or 1 /2 inch. A simple way of measuring this is to take the mesh of hair between the first and second fingers and place the backs of the fingers against the scalp so that they are covering the hair at the roots. All of the hair that protrudes from between the fingers can be considered to be the midlengths and ends. Summary: a warm salon or adding heat speeds up development colour development will take longer if it is very cold when applying colour to virgin hair the hair at the roots will take more quickly due to the heat from the body - explain that this will have an effect on the way that the colour is applied when using a lightener in a warm environment the application needs to be quick as it starts to develop as soon as it is applied and continues to develop until it is removed if the room temperature is uneven then this may show up in the result, for example, if there is a draught on one side of the head from an open door or window the colour may develop more quickly on one side than the other heat added from a steamer will dilute the product and reduce its effectiveness

46 Handout Handout (2 of 2) GH You must be aware that if excessive heat is used during the development of colour or lighteners, the hair may over process, the condition of the hair will deteriorate and the hair and scalp could be damaged. Notes

47 Activity GH The ph values of different colour correction products Using the litmus paper provided, check the ph values of different colouring and lightening products. Note your findings on the chart. Product ph value Temporary colour Semi-permanent colour Quasi-permanent colour Permanent colour Lighteners Stabilised hydrogen peroxide

48 Handout Handout (1 of 2) GH The importance of restoring the hair s ph balance after the colour correction process and how and why pre and post colouring treatments should be used When hair is chemically treated with an alkali product the cuticle is usually damaged and lifted out from the surface of the hair shaft. Notes The results of this are twofold: the hair looks rough and dry colours fade quickly If hair looks rough and dry it is because there is no smooth surface on the hair from which light can be reflected, so the hair looks dull. The reason why colours fade quickly is that the space between the cortex and the cuticle is widened so colour molecules can escape. Because the molecules are small, red and yellow colours are particularly affected by this. It is very important to bring the hair back to its ph levels in order to prevent these effects. One way of restoring the hair s acidity following a chemical application is to apply a ph balancer. These are products that are designed to neutralise alkalinity and to introduce a mild acid to the hair. By doing this the following effects are achieved: the cuticle is closed colour fade is reduced or prevented the hair s natural ph is restored

49 2)GH Handout Handout (2 of Pre and post colouring treatments Treatment Type How to use Why used Pre colouring treatments Shampoo Shampoo the hair with a pre colouring treatment following the manufacturer s instructions To remove products that coat the hair and create a barrier to colouring Porosity leveller Normally sprinkled onto the hair and combed through* To even out the porosity by filling the gaps in the cuticle Normally sprinkled onto the hair and combed through* Restructurant * Follow manufacturer s instructions To strengthen the cortex by making artificial protein bridges between the disulphide bonds Post colouring treatments Conditioner Apply a ph balanced conditioner* on completion of the colouring treatment to restore the hair s natural ph to close the cuticle to prevent colour fade and moisture loss Restructurant Normally sprinkled onto the hair and combed through* To strengthen the cortex by making artificial protein bridges between the disulphide bonds * Follow manufacturer s instructions Note: The cosmetic look of the hair is very important. Restoring the ph gives the hair shine as the cuticle is smooth and light can reflect from it.

50 Handout GH How the different strengths of hydrogen peroxide affect colouring and lightening Hydrogen peroxide is commonly used in hair services. It is used for the oxygen it contains and is used in both the colouring and lightening processes. During the permanent colouring process the oxygen enters the cortex along with the colour molecule where they mix and oxidise. This causes the colour molecule to swell. Imagine the oxygen being a mouse and the colour molecule being a piece of cheese. The mouse goes into the hole (under the cuticle scale into the cortex). It eats the cheese (colour molecule) and gets bigger and bigger. Eventually it is too big to get out and remains trapped in the cortex. the higher the percentage or volume strength of hydrogen peroxide, the more oxygen is available the more oxygen that is released into the hair, the higher the degree of lift that can be achieved if the required result is to remain the same depth or be darker, less oxygen is needed so the percentage or volume strength of hydrogen peroxide should be low Hydrogen peroxide is usually stabilised with an acid such as sulphuric or phosphoric acid. This lies on the top of the solution to stop the oxygen escaping. If allowed to decompose (if the extra oxygen atom is allowed to escape) hydrogen peroxide will become water. H 2 O 2 is the chemical symbol for hydrogen peroxide. This symbol shows that it contains two atoms of hydrogen and two atoms of oxygen. It is very close to water, which is H 2 O. This symbol shows that water contains two atoms of hydrogen but only one atom of oxygen. Hydrogen peroxide comes in either a liquid or crème formula. It is an unstable solution that is not found in nature it has to be manufactured. It is literally oxygen suspended in water. Oxygen is a gas and if given the chance the extra atom in the H 2 O 2 will evaporate into the atmosphere. This is what happens when we put it onto hair it escapes into the hair rather than the atmosphere. Different strengths of hydrogen peroxide affect colouring and lightening because: This could happen when: air is allowed into the bottle it is stored near a heat source or in direct sunlight, allowing it to get hot foreign bodies, e.g. dust, are allowed to enter it Hydrogen peroxide is flammable. PPE must always be used when handling hydrogen peroxide.

51 Handout Handout (1 of 2) GH Diluting hydrogen peroxide Hydrogen peroxide can be diluted to make a weaker strength. Distilled water must be used for this process as tap water may have additives that could affect the result of the colour or the strength of the solution. The strength of hydrogen peroxide can be shown in two ways in a percentage or in volume strength. Step 3 Step 4 To determine the number of parts hydrogen peroxide required, use the first number of the volume strength required. In this case as the strength required was 30 volume, it is 3 parts that are required. Mix one part water with three parts of 40 volume hydrogen peroxide to achieve 30 volume peroxide. 3% = 10 Volume 6% = 20 Volume 9% = 30 Volume 12% = 40 Volume Example 2 There is only 9% hydrogen peroxide in stock and 3% hydrogen peroxide is required To calculate the dilution of hydrogen peroxide use the following method: Example 1 There is only 40 volume hydrogen peroxide in stock and 30 volume hydrogen peroxide is required. Step 1 Step 2 Take the strength required from the strength in stock 9 3 = 6 The number of the answer tells you how many parts of water are required (6 parts) Step 1 Step 2 Take the strength required from the strength in stock = 10 The first number of the answer tells you how many parts of water are required (1 part) Step 3 To determine the number of parts hydrogen peroxide required, use the number of the percentage required. In this case as the strength required was 3%, it is 3 parts that are required.

52 2)GH Handout Handout (2 of Step 4 Mix six parts water with three parts of 9% to achieve 3%. Or break this down even further using the lowest common denominator 6/3 = 2, 3 /3 = 1 so mix 2 parts water and 1 part 9% to achieve 3% Notes Now calculate the following dilutions. From: 30 volume make 10 volume 40 volume make 20 volume 6% make 3% 12% make 3% 9% make 6%

53 Handout GH The importance of sectioning hair accurately for the colour correction service and why it is important to avoid disturbing areas that are still processing when removing products from developed areas Sectioning hair accurately A common feature when colour correcting hair is that the correction is only required on a small area. For example: there may be a resistant patch at the front hairline there may be root glare colour may have leaked from a highlighting packet Therefore, it is crucial to isolate the areas that require correcting from other hair or parts of the scalp. Avoiding the disturbance of other areas It is important to avoid disturbing areas that are still processing when removing products from developed areas. This is because if you cause a disturbance you may cause packets that are still in place to seep or leak. This means that colour could leak from the packets. If you disturb an area before it is time to do so you may remove product before it is ready. By avoiding such disturbance you can ensure that the colour is allowed time to complete its development. Summary If you fail to section the hair it may mean that you work in a haphazard way, therefore by sectioning you can ensure methodical completion of the colour correction service. Other reasons for neat sectioning are that it enables you to: work quickly and neatly see where you are working at all times avoid product leakage look professional save time It also: helps you to add colour only where needed aids client comfort reduces product wastage Sectioning hair accurately ensures: that areas for colour correction are isolated from other areas there is even coverage methodical completion of the service You must avoid disturbing areas that are still developing: to make sure that the colour is allowed to complete its development to prevent leaks or seepage from foils or packets that are still in place

54 Handout GH Why it is important to leave the hair and scalp free of colour correction products The development of standard colours applied to hair usually stop after approximately one hour. This is because all of the available oxygen from the hydrogen peroxide has been given off and has either escaped into the air, has oxidised the artificial colour molecules, or has oxidised some of the natural pigment in the hair. Many salons use junior members of staff to remove colouring and bleaching products from the hair. Remember, it is still your responsibility to ensure the products are completely removed. Colouring and lightening products must be removed for the following reasons: If colours are not totally removed they may continue to develop for a short time longer, they will make the hair feel sticky and it will look dull. When lightener is developing it can develop for up to two hours. This is because there are boosters in lighteners more oxygen can be obtained from the mixture. This means that the development must be carefully monitored and that the product must be completely removed when the hair has reached the required stage of lightness. If lightener is not fully removed it will continue to develop and this can cause damage to the hair. Further, if the lightener is in contact with the scalp, this will also be harmed. to stop the development of the product to ensure an even result to prevent damage to the hair or scalp Other reasons may include: to prevent the product coming into contact with the client s clothes to prevent the hair looking dull to prevent the hair feeling tacky Notes In addition, if colour or lightener is not removed, future services will also be affected. The results of the subsequent blow dry, set or finish will not look as good due to the deposit of colouring products that remain on the hair shaft.

55 Handout Handout (1 of 2) GH The reasons for and methods of pre-softening and pre-pigmenting hair Pre-softening This process is carried out on resistant hair to open the cuticle prior to colour application. It can be done on any part of the hair: at resistant roots on a resistant patch for doing a full head permanent colour on virgin hair Method gown the client for a colour service prepare some thin strips of cotton wool for protective purposes use ppe to protect yourself do not shampoo the hair section off the area you want to pre-soften pour 6% (20 volume) liquid hydrogen peroxide into a non-metallic bowl (crème peroxide will leave the hair feeling greasy) working quickly and neatly, apply a small amount of liquid peroxide to dry hair in the area you wish to pre-soften use the strips of cotton wool between the sections to protect the hair that you do not want to soften do not wash off, apply the colour to the hair and process in the normal way Pre-pigmenting For very resistant hair, the hydrogen peroxide can be dried into the hair. The heat from the dryer will open the cuticle of the hair even further, allowing the colour to enter the cortex more easily. There are two main reasons for prepigmenting hair 1. To restore some of the warm shade of pigment when restoring colours from a lightened base. 2. When a client has a high degree of fade of warm tones. Any type of colour can be used when pre-pigmenting but it must not be mixed with hydrogen peroxide or any other oxidiser. Method gown the client for a colour service use PPE to protect yourself prepare the pre-pigmenting product. This can be temporary, semipermanent, quasi or permanent colour do not mix colours with hydrogen peroxide. Quasi and permanent colours can be mixed with water do not shampoo the hair unless there are barriers to entry, in which case the hair must be shampooed and dried prior to pre-pigmentation

56 Handout Handout (2 of 2) GH working quickly and neatly, apply the colour to dry hair leave the colour to develop for up to 15 minutes remove the colour from the hair by shampooing apply the target colour check that the pre-pigmentation process has provided a tone that is strong enough to receive the target colour. If not, repeat the process the target colour should have a warm tone Following the pre-pigmentation process it is important to note the following: the target colour will only need to be mixed with a low percentage or volume strength hydrogen peroxide Advantages and disadvantages of pre-pigmentation products: Product Advantage Disadvantage Temporary quick and economical limited colour choice skin staining Semi-permanent if hair is very porous the larger molecule will help to fill gaps in the cuticle added shine takes more time as it needs to be processed few salons stock true semi permanent colours Quasi-permanent if hair is very porous the larger molecule will help to fill gaps in the cuticle added shine range of warm tones is greater takes more time as it needs to be processed can be more expensive Permanent if hair is very porous the larger molecule will help to fill gaps in the cuticle added shine range of warm tones is greater takes more time as it needs to be processed can be more expensive

57 Activity GH How and why the contra-indications in the range can affect the delivery of the colour correction service to clients Contra-indications Incompatible products How they may affect delivery of the service Why they may affect delivery of the service History of previous allergic reaction to permanent colouring products Other known allergies Skin disorders Medical advice or instructions Evident hair damage

58 GH Activity How and why the contra-indications in the range can affect the delivery of the colour correction service to clients - Answer Guide Contra-indications Incompatible products History of previous allergic reaction to permanent colouring products How they may affect delivery of the service The service may not be able to be carried out, depending on the result of the incompatibility test If the skin test is positive the service should not be provided Why they may affect delivery of the service There may be damage to the hair The colour result may be unsatisfactory There may be a positive reaction to the skin test There is a risk of causing further sensitisation to colouring products Other known allergies Depending on the result of the skin test the service may not be able to be provided Risk of anaphylactic shock There may be a positive reaction to the skin test There is a risk of causing further sensitisation to colouring products Skin sensitivities and disorders The service may not be able to be carried out Risk of anaphylactic shock There may be inflammation of the skin Medical advice or instructions These may prohibit the use of colouring products There may be breaks in the surface of the skin It may alter the effectiveness of the medication It may affect the result of the colour Evident hair damage The service may not be able to be carried out There is risk of further damage to the hair

59 Handout GH The types of tools, materials and equipment used for colour correction and how and when to use them There are a variety of tools, materials and equipment that can be used for colouring hair. The choice is often dependent on personal preference and the techniques to be used. For client and stylist protection All of the following are used before and during the colour preparation, development and removal Gowns, plastic gowns, capes/towels To ensure the client s clothing is protected, change if gets wet or if product is deposited on it Neck strips To protect the client s collar from the colour. Tuck well down into the neck area PPE To protect the stylist. Includes apron, gloves. May also include mask for bleach, barrier cream Barrier cream To protect the hands and the client s skin, can be used to mask off areas for partial colouring For preparation and application of colour: All of the following are used during the preparation or application of colour or bleach Measuring cylinder o accurately measure H2O2 and other products Trolley To hold tools, materials and products Pin tail comb To weave highlights and lowlights Tint bowl To contain the colour - should be non-metallic Tint brush To apply colour and bleach Colouring gun For application of highlights or lowlights Spatula For application of highlights or lowlights, for partial techniques Sectioning clips To hold some hair separate from other hair during or after colour application For colour processing: All of the following are used during the processing of colour or bleach Foils, wraps For woven highlight or lowlights, also for masking off areas for partial colouring techniques Accelerator Used to speed up the processing of colour. Must be correctly positioned around the head Timer Used mainly to time development. Helps avoid overprocessing For after colour or lightening development: All of the following are used during or after the removal of colour or lighteners Basin and water supply Needed for removal of colour and for following COSHH Colour removal shampoo To be used at completion of colour service to ensure scalp and hair is left clean Colour savers To maintain the condition of the hair and the life of the colour ph balanced conditioner To restore the hair to its natural ph after colouring or bleaching Record card To record consultation questions and results. Used during consultation and to update at completion of the service Discuss with your trainer and colleagues any tools, materials or equipment that you use in your salon that are not included above.

60 Handout Handout (1 of 2) GH How and why the factors in the range can influence your choice of product and application technique The factors in the range have a marked effect on the products that can be used and the way in which they are applied. Temperature The hair is warmer at the roots due to heat from the scalp so the roots should be applied last when doing a full head colour. If the room is warm the development will be faster, if it is cool processing will be slower. Existing colour of hair The quantity of melanin and pheomelanin in the hair governs the degree of lift that can be achieved using tint, high-lift tint or bleach. It also determines the strength of hydrogen peroxide to use. Hair condition and porosity If the porosity of the hair is uneven a porosity leveller must be used before a colour service. If the hair has an impacted cuticle that makes the hair resistant a presoftening treatment must be done. If the elasticity is poor then avoid the application of chemicals as further damage would occur. Test results Base all decisions about the colour service on the results of the necessary tests. Always discuss the tests with the client, ensure that they are aware of the meaning of the results and do not proceed if the results are unfavourable. Length of hair Can affect the choice of application technique. For example, if the hair is too short then foiling may not be the best highlighting method, it may be better to use a spatula or paint on the highlights. Hair density If hair is very dense or very sparse the colouring technique may have to be adapted. Comb through highlights or lowlights can provide more colour into dense hair whereas it might flood sparse hair with too much colour. If hair is very dense you must remember that the time for application will need to be extended. Percentage of white hair This affects the type of product used and it may also affect the technique. If white hair is very resistant it may need to be pre-softened. If 100% coverage is required you must remember that only a permanent colour will cover it. Sequence of application You must take the radiation of heat from the scalp into account. The colour will process more quickly at the root area leading to root glare or an uneven result. Scalp sensitivity You need to be aware of the importance of scalp sensitivity. This may indicate an allergy to a product or can be caused by cuts or abrasions to the scalp or an inflamed scalp. Scalp sensitivity may preclude the application of a chemical treatment.

61 Handout Handout (2 of 2) GH Strength of hydrogen peroxide Each strength has a specific purpose, you need to be aware of the strength required to achieve the desired colour, a low strength is used for adding depth and a higher strength is used for lightening the hair Notes

62 Handout Handout (1 of 5) GH The methods of applying and removing colour correction products The products available for colour correction are constantly evolving. Therefore, it is important to keep up-to-date with colourcorrection procedures and techniques. There are various ways of doing this: take an active part in in-salon training sessions attend seminars and demonstrations go to manufacturers workshops these provide product knowledge as well as knowledge of new techniques read trade magazines and journals The following application and removal methods are general always check the manufacturers instructions. Product Application Methods Removal Temporary colours Spray Mousse Lotion Apply after the hair is dried into the final style Apply to pre-shampooed hair from the hands protected with PPE. Comb the mousse evenly through the hair or Apply mousse to the teeth of a wide toothed comb. Comb mousse evenly through preshampooed hair Wear PPE, sprinkle lotion onto hair. Use friction massage to distribute the lotion before combing through to ensue even coverage The colour is not removed, but will remain in the hair until the next shampoo. Note: The colour normally lasts for one shampoo, however, on very porous hair some temporary colours may enter the cortex and last longer. Mascara or crayons Apply to hair that has been dried into the final style

63 Semi-permanent This colour comes in the form of liquids, gels or creams. Apply to pre-shampooed hair. GH Handout Handout (2 of 5) Rinse the hair until the water runs clearer. Wearing PPE, apply with a brush from a bowl or directly from the tube or applicator bottle. Read and follow manufacturers instructions for development time. When using dark or vibrant colours, avoid contact with the scalp to prevent staining. This product is not mixed with a developer. Note: The water will not run completely clear. If it did so, this would mean that there would be no semipermanent colour left in the hair. Quasi-permanent This colour comes in the form of liquids, gels or creams. A skin test must be carried out before this colour can be used. First time application: Apply to dry hair. Divide the hair into four sections. Wearing PPE, apply with a brush from a bowl or directly from the applicator bottle. Shampoo the hair to remove all traces of colour from the scalp. Apply a ph balanced conditioner. Regrowth application: Apply to dry hair. Divide the hair into four sections, then wearing PPE apply to the regrowth area with a brush from a bowl or directly from the applicator bottle. This product is mixed with a developer a weak strength of hydrogen peroxide.

64 Permanent colour This colour comes in the form of liquids, gels or creams. A skin test must be carried out before this colour can be used. GH Handout Handout (3 of 5) The colour is shampooed from the hair. Virgin head application Permanent colour must be applied in three stages to virgin hair for the following reasons: the body heat will affect the development of the colour at the roots, i.e. make the colour develop more quickly The first shampoo is often the colour itself. Add a small amount of water and emulsify the colour (this means the oils in the colour are mixed with the warm water to form a creamy consistency). the ends of the hair will be porous due to the age of the hair and physical or environmental damage, making the colour develop more quickly the mid-lengths of the hair will be most resistant, therefore the colour will develop more slowly here Method The colour is applied to dry hair. Note If there is a build-up of products on the hair, or hair is very oily, (both of which may cause a barrier to entry of the colour), the hair should be shampooed (avoiding stimulating the scalp) and dried, prior to the application of the colour. To ensure the colour is removed from the hairline and to prevent the colour staining the skin, rub the tint into the tint, i.e. as you shampoo the colour, massage some of the emulsified mixture into the skin at the hairline. Apply a second shampoo and ensure the water runs clear. Apply a ph balanced conditioner. Divide the hair into four sections. Wear PPE 1. Apply to the mid-lengths of the hair 2. Apply to the ends of the hair 3. Apply to the roots of the hair Note For hair that is shorter than 6cms - the mid lengths and ends can be coloured at the same time. Virgin hair is that which has not had any chemical treatment carried out on the hair. For example, there is no colour or perm.

65 Regrowth application GH Handout Handout (4 of 5) Method Divide the hair into four sections. Wear PPE Apply to the regrowth of the four sections normally starting at the back of the head where the hair is most resistant. Take sections appropriate for the density of hair, i.e. abundant hair will require smaller sections than sparse hair. Crosscheck the application to ensure all areas of the regrowth are coloured. Apply the colour to the hairline carefully, avoiding staining the skin, use a few bristles at the side edge of the brush to do this. Following the development of colour at the root area, and depending on the amount of colour fade on the ends of the hair, apply colour to the ends of the hair appropriately. Note This increases the porosity on the ends so should only be done when necessary Lighteners Lighteners can be in the form of oil, gel, cream or powder. Virgin head application Rinse the hair with luke warm water until the water runs clear. Lighteners must be applied in three stages to virgin hair for the following reasons: Do not use hot water as the scalp will be very tender. the body heat will affect the development of the lightners at the roots, i.e. make the lightener develop more quickly Gently shampoo the hair and apply a ph balanced conditioner. the ends of the hair will be porous due to the age of the hair and physical or environmental damage, making the bleach develop more quickly the mid-lengths of the hair will be most resistant, therefore the lightener will develop more slowly here Method The lightener is applied to dry hair.

66 Note If there is a build up of products on the hair, or hair is very oily, (both of which may cause a barrier to entry of the lightener), the hair should be shampooed (avoiding stimulating the scalp) and dried, prior to the application of the lightener. GH Handout Handout (5 of 5) Divide the hair into four sections. Wear PPE 1. Apply to the mid-lengths of the hair 2. Apply to the ends of the hair 3. Apply to the roots of the hair. Note For hair that is shorter than 6cms, the mid lengths and ends can be applied at the same time. Note Virgin hair is that which has not had any chemical treatment carried out on the hair. For example, there is no colour or perm Regrowth application Divide the hair into four sections. Wear PPE Apply the lightener to the regrowth area. Do not overlap. This means that the lightener must be carefully applied from the roots up to, but not over the previous application. Rinse the hair with luke warm water until the water runs clear. Do not use hot water as the scalp will be very tender. Gently shampoo the hair and apply a ph balanced conditioner.

67 Handout GH The importance of following manufacturers instructions when measuring and mixing colour correction products, how to accurately measure and mix them to manufacturers instructions and the importance of using products economically You must remember the importance of following manufacturers instructions when measuring and mixing colour and lighteners. Failure to do so could result in mistakes being made which could result in an unsatisfactory colour result or cause damage to the hair or skin and subsequently lead to a law suit. You must ensure that you tell your clients that you are checking the manufacturer s instructions. This will help to raise the level of confidence that the client has in you and it may become of some help if litigation occurs. You should have a spare scoop handy when measuring bleach because the ratio of most bleach powders is 1:1 so if you have two scoops you can fill one with powder and one with developer. This will prevent the bleach from becoming contaminated with developer. To help to remember the need to use products economically you should understand that the cost of stock is deducted from the salon profits so the more product that is wasted the more it costs, leaving less money available for commission payments. You must always work to a high degree of accuracy. Products in tubes should always be pushed from the bottom of the tube to the top; you must avoid squeezing from the middle. This allows air into the tube, oxidation takes place and the colourant spoils. You must always measure H 2 O 2 in a measuring cylinder that is clean and uncontaminated as contamination will lead to the hydrogen peroxide not functioning properly, ie, it will be reduced in strength. You should also use sufficient product to complete the job well. If you skimp on product you may get a patchy result which will leave the client unhappy. If this happens the client is entitled to ask to have the service done again or to have a refund. Either of these courses of action will affect profits and, ultimately, your pay. It is necessary to measure crème or liquid products, e.g. H 2 O 2, some bleaches, etc. by placing the measuring cylinder on a flat surface at eye level. The measurement must be taken at the bottom of the meniscus and if the cylinder is not placed correctly then the meniscus will not be seen clearly.

68 Handout Handout (1 of 2) GH How the application and removal of lightener should be adapted to minimise scalp sensitivity and hair damage, and how to remove artificial colour Remember lighteners should be applied in three stages 4. mid length this is the most resistant area 5. ends may be porous and can develop quickly 6. roots the heat from the body will develop this area the quickest when removing use lukewarm water as the scalp will be tender following the timing guidelines in the manufacturer s instructions will minimise damage to the hair acid colour removers these achieve the required result by shrinking the colour molecules to allow them to get back out through the cuticle bleach-based removers these bleach the artificial colour molecules until they become lighter Some salons use a bleach bath to lighten artificial colour. This is a cheaper option but it may make the recolouring process more complex because it will bleach the hair s natural pigment as well as the artificial colour. Colour removers are also known as: colour strippers decolourants colour reducers Manufacturers often supply decolouring products that are specifically designed for use on their own oxidation tints. Other colouring materials, for example, compound henna, are incompatible with colour removers. Colour removers are used when the artificial colour is too dark. There are different types of colour removers and they are designed to be used only on artificial colour: colour reducers these introduce hydrogen, it breaks down the oxidised colour molecules and makes them smaller, allowing escape from the cortex When removing artificial colour, you must advise the client of the damaging effects that may be experienced. You must also recommend that no further chemical processes are carried out on the hair as this may cause further damage, possibly hair breakage. Method Before applying any colour remover ensure that a full consultation has been carried out and that the client knows what is to be done to their hair. You must ensure: all necessary tests are conducted the condition of the hair and scalp are checked the client s clothing is fully protected It is important to wear PPE and to check and follow the manufacturer s instructions.

69 Handout Handout (2 of 2) GH When using hydrogen based reducers: isolate and protect the hair that is not to be treated if any apply the reducer according to manufacturer s instructions check the development frequently when the required result is reached remove it according to manufacturer s instructions pour a weak hydrogen peroxide rinse (1.5% or 5 vol) through the hair to check if the process is effective known as the peroxide test reapply the reducer to any areas that re-oxidise and revert to the dark shade and complete the process as above Notes Providing the hair is in good condition, the process can be repeated up to three times. When using a bleach based colour remover: isolate the hair to be treated ensure that the correct strength of hydrogen peroxide is used by following manufacturer s instructions mix and apply the bleach according to manufacturer s instructions monitor the development by taking frequent strand tests when required degree of lightness has been reached remove using a mild shampoo apply a ph balanced conditioner

70 Handout GH How to remove bands of colour and how to recolour hair that has had artificial colour removed There is a variety of possible reasons for colour banding but the most common cause is overlapping when applying to the regrowth. This frequently happens when clients apply colour to their hair at home. They cannot see what they are doing or, if they ask a friend to do it, this person does not have the expertise needed to do the job properly. Other reasons are: changing the colour using a lighter colour at the regrowth on hair with faded ends resulting in a darker band at the mid-lengths uneven application of toner after bleaching To remove dark colour bands you must first isolate the hair that is not to be treated. This can be done by applying barrier cream to protect the hair. A colour stripper or bleach based remover should be applied to the dark areas that need to be corrected. Ensure that you follow the manufacturer s instructions for the development and removal. Ensure you lift the hair from the scalp to allow air to circulate to help to achieve even results. Avoid the use of added heat during processing as slow development is easier to control. When hair has had artificial colour removed by reduction it is usually necessary to recolour it. The choice of colourant type depends on the condition of the hair. Hair that is very porous with poor elasticity may only be able to stand the effects of a semipermanent colour whereas hair that is in good condition can be recoloured using permanent colour mixed with a very low strength hydrogen peroxide. You must remember that this hair will be very porous so the development may be quicker than would normally be expected and the result may look darker than required. It is prudent to do some test cuttings using tint that has been mixed with water and tint that has been mixed with a very low strength of hydrogen peroxide to check the likely results. It is good practice to take two test cuttings and apply the target shade to one and a lighter shade to the other. On most occasions the lighter shade gives the best results. Apply the colour following manufacturer s instructions, monitor development carefully and apply a ph balancing conditioner after removal. Advise the client to use colour save cleansers and conditioners to prevent colour loss due to the increased porosity of the hair.