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2 Cosmetic Chemistry An Instant Approach i

3 Publishing-in-support-of, EDUCREATION PUBLISHING RZ 94, Sector - 6, Dwarka, New Delhi Shubham Vihar, Mangla, Bilaspur, Chhattisgarh Website: Copyright, 2018, Dr. Ayaz Mahmood Dar All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, magnetic, optical, chemical, manual, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written consent of its writer. ISBN: Price: ` The opinions/ contents expressed in this book are solely of the authors and do not represent the opinions/ standings/ thoughts of Educreation or the Editors. The book is released by using the services of self-publishing house. Printed in India ii

4 Cosmetic Chemistry An Instant Approach Dr. Ayaz Mahmood Dar EDUCREATION PUBLISHING (Since 2011) iii

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6 Dedicated Allah, for everything I have and will have. To my parents, Tanveer, Irshada, Shafia, Ibaad, Maheen and Adeeha for utmost support and love. To my friends and colleagues who inspired me to write this book and other friends who directly or indirectly supported me in past few months and kept me motivated to write this book. To my loving students with whom I always feel comfortable and enthusiastic in the classroom. v

7 About The Author Dr. Ayaz Mahmood Dar grew up in Kulgam district of Kashmir. After completing early education from Kulgam, he moved to Aligarh Muslim University, Aligarh where he studied B. Sc Hons., M. Sc and Ph. D courses and also qualified NET-JRF conducted by CSIR, India. During research, he has published his research work in almost 50 Journals of international repute. He has also presented papers in almost 20 international conferences. Presently he is working as an Assistant Professor in Chemistry in Department of Higher Education working under University of Kashmir, J&K. vi

8 About The Book Cosmetics are as old as mankind itself. Even in the most primitive societies, the use of cosmetics was universal and the same basic objectives remain unchanged today although the means employed to further them are now far more complex and are scientifically based and controlled. There is no doubt that the cosmetic science is of much importance and keeping in view the importance of it, I have tried my level best to bring before you a concise material in the form of a book Cosmetic Chemistry-An instant approach which is strictly according to the syllabus prescribed by University Grants Commission, adopted by University of Kashmir. I hope that you will enjoy while reading this book. - Dr. Ayaz M. Dar vii

9 Content List Sr. No. Content Page 1. UNIT Cosmetics 2 Types 4 Drugs 7 Soaps and Detergents 10 Hair care Products 14 Shampoo 17 Baby Shampoo 20 Hand wash 21 Body wash/ shower gel 23 Cleanser 24 Face wash 25 Toxic beauty ingredients 27 Hair Conditioner 29 Hair Straightening Dominican Blowout Hair Damage 34 Hair Dyeing 38 Risk in Hair dyeing UNIT Antiperspirants & deodorants 48 Body odour 53 Perspiration/Sweating 55 Perfumes 56 Fragrance sensitivity 60 Notes 62 Pheromone 64 viii

10 Musk deer 67 After shave UNIT Tooth pastes 71 Types 73 Tooth 74 Tooth decay 77 Role of fluorides in Tooth decay 82 Dental plaque 84 Tartar UNIT Skin chemistry 91 Ways to avoid skin damage 96 Dry skin 98 Allergic Eczema 99 Psoriasis 99 Dehydration 101 Primary hypothyroidism 103 Heat Emergencies 105 Diabetes insipidus 107 Sjogren s syndrome 109 Hypoparathyroidism 110 Cholera 112 Stasis Dermatitis/Ulcer 113 Icthyosis Vulgaris 115 Diabetes 117 Toxic megacolon 120 Dissection of Aorta 122 Anorexia Nervosa 125 Burns 127 Corns and Calluses 131 Hashimoto s Disease 133 ix

11 Creams and Lotions 135 Skin moisturizer 136 Sun-screen lotions 139 SPF-Sunscreen 143 Mascara 145 Eye Liner 146 Eye Shadows 148 Dangerous chemicals in mascara 149 x

12 Cosmetic Chemistry Unit-1 Cosmetics Types Drugs Soaps and Detergents Hair care Products Shampoo Baby Shampoo Hand wash Body wash/ shower gel Cleanser Face wash Toxic beauty ingredients Hair Conditioner Hair Straightening Dominican Blowout Hair Damage Hair Dyeing Risk in Hair dyeing 1 D r. A y a z M a h m o o d D a r

13 Cosmetic Chemistry Cosmetics Cosmetics are substances or products used to enhance or alter the appearance or fragrance of the body. Many cosmetics are designed for use of applying to the face and hair. They are generally mixtures of chemical compounds; some being derived from natural sources (such as coconut oil), and some being synthetics. Common cosmetics include lipstick, mascara, eye shadow, foundation, rouge, skin cleansers and skin lotions, shampoo, hairstyling products (gel, hair spray, etc.), perfume and cologne. Cosmetics applied to the face to enhance its appearance are often called make-up or makeup. In the U.S., the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), which regulates cosmetics, defines cosmetics as "intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions". This broad definition includes any material intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product. The FDA specifically excludes soap from this category. The word cosmetics derives from the Greek (kosmetikē tekhnē), meaning "technique of dress and ornament", from (kosmētikos), "skilled in ordering or arranging" and that from (kosmos), meaning amongst others "order" and "ornament". History of cosmetics Egyptian men and women also used makeup to enhance their appearance. They were very fond of eyeliner and eye shadows in dark colors including blue, red and black. Ancient Sumerian men and women were possibly the first to invent and wear lipstick, about 5,000 years ago. They crushed gemstones and used them to decorate their faces, mainly on the lips and around the eyes. Also around 3000 BC to 1500 BC, women in the ancient Indus Valley Civilization applied red tinted lipstick to their lips for face decoration. Ancient Egyptians extracted red dye from fucus-algin, 0.01% iodine and some bromine mannite, but this dye resulted in serious illness. Lipsticks with shimmering effects were initially made using a pearlescent substance found in fish scales. Six thousand year old relics of the hollowed out tombs of the Ancient Egyptian pharaohs are discovered. According to one source, early major developments include: 2 D r. A y a z M a h m o o d D a r

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