C T S C C M o n t h l y C h a p t e r M e e t i n g. Inspiration for Hair Care Products

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1 Nutmeg Newsletter C T S C C M o n t h l y C h a p t e r M e e t i n g March 20, 2018 Norwalk Inn & Conference Center 99 East Avenue Norwalk, CT Registration: 5:30 6:00 pm Dinner: 6:30 pm Speaker: 7:00 pm Abstract Inspiration for Hair Care Products Speaker: Joseph J. Cincotta, Ph.D JJC Creative Consulting Where can chemists find inspiration to develop successful hair care products? As formulating chemists, where can we go for ideas for new product development? Traditional sources yield boring me-too products. Marketing expects multifunctional benefits and powerful claims from each product. Gone are the days where a shampoo simply cleanses the hair. Formulating high end hair care products can be a challenge. What sparks the inspiration allowing us to create the innovation customers are seeking? How do we make our brands successful and keep employers satisfied? What s behind a hero product? Joe will explore some ways in which through chemistry, and a bit of imagination and creativity, you can use available raw materials to create innovative hair products. Biography Dr. Joseph J. Cincotta received his Ph.D. in Organic Chemistry in 1983 from the City University of New York. His career now spans over four decades spent in the personal care industry using his research background and chemical knowledge to devise and formulate innovative new personal care products for both professional and retail markets. Over those years he has developed over 160 formulations which made hundreds of millions of dollars for his employers and several of his formulas won prestigious awards from major Beauty magazines and CEW. In 2003, Dr. Cincotta created his own LLC (JJC Creative Consulting) in his home state of Connecticut. His company specializes in formulating professional and retail formulations for a variety of personal care applications where his chemical knowledge and skill of formulating consumer products is essential. CTSCC Monthly Meeting Registration Online at Cynthia at cvalovich@zotos.com Chapter Meeting Cost SCC members: $45 Non-members: $50 Students and Unemployed: $35 March Meeting Sponsor Page 1 March 2018 Volume 35 No. 2

2 2018 ELECTED OFFICERS: Chairperson Elizabeth Mycka (203) Chair-Elect Susan Sperring (914) Secretary Marine May (203) Treasurer Tiffany Fielder (203) Advisor. Patricia Singh (973) Sponsorship Alma Calderon (203) Employment Tiffany Fielder (203) Newsletter Jennifer Macary (475) Dear CTSCC Members and Friends, The last two months in the northeast have been a mix of extreme weather events and teasers of unseasonably warm days. We re hopefully at the tail end of blizzards which have pummeled the area, snapped trees and broken power lines. Many of us have dealt with multiple days of power outages and schools closed. Maybe you were melting buckets of snow just to flush the toilet. When desperate, and left with no water pressure, the world of wipes is there the help you tackle household and personal care cleansing. I like to keep in mind that although difficult, it s a temporary situation. We are all looking forward to Spring and for March to go out like a lamb. The year started well for the Connecticut chapter with a riveting talk by Dr. James Hayward, Chairman, President and CEO of Applied DNA Sciences. The audience had lots of interest and questions. One member told me he was so intrigued by the talk he bought stock in the company! We appreciate his time and expertise. March 20 th we will host Dr. Joseph J. Cincotta of JJC Creative Consulting. He s a well-known formulation expert in the personal care industry and a Connecticut native. His talk will focus on finding inspiration for successful haircare products. We are pleased he can join us and share some of his vast personal experiences with our group. Our friend Michele Nilsen from J. Tech Sales, LLC is a corporate sponsor of the dinner meeting. She will have a table set up with product information and make herself available for discussion. April 10 th is our last meeting in Spring. Giorgio Dell Acqua, PhD, a scientist and consultant for the personal care industry, is our speaker. He is an active member of the NY chapter. He will give us insights into the current state of sustainable product development. The dinner meeting will be sponsored by Jean Zheng and Jarchem Industries, Inc. April 27 th is our 10 th annual golf outing. Sign up now with Dan O Neill of Charkit. We re golfing on a beautiful course and have a fun day planned. Discounted rates available to stay over at the hotel to enjoy Foxwood Casino. Our chapter is successful thanks to expert speakers who share their time and knowledge. Thanks to the member participation at meetings and events. Thanks to the corporate sponsors and vendors who help support members and bring down costs. And especially thanks to the volunteers who coordinate the events and handle the endless administrative responsibilities. Thanks to you all. Hope to see you soon! Elizabeth Mycka 2018 Chair, Connecticut Chapter - Society of

3 CTSCC 2018 Important Dates Date Activity Topic Speaker Location March 20 th Dinner Meeting Hair Care Innovation Joe Cinoctta Norwalk Inn, Norwalk CT April 10 th Dinner Meeting Sustainability Giorgio Dell'Acqua Unilever, Trumbull CT April 27 th Golf Outing 10th Annual N/A Lake of Isles, North Stonington, CT July Summer Outing TBD N/A TBD Sept 25 th Dinner Meeting TBD Neelam Muizzuddin Giovannis, Darien CT Oct 16 th Scientific Seminar SCC Continuing Ed TBD Darien, CT Nov 13 th Dinner Meeting TBD TBD TBD Follow us CTSCC.org Are you a member of the Society of??? Broaden your knowledge and expand your network by joining the Society. Advancing cosmetic science since The Society seeks to advance scientific knowledge with a host of membership benefits. Our 4,000+ members, living in the U.S. and Canada, are comprised of industry professionals and academics working in all fields of cosmetic science. By joining the Society, members broaden their knowledge and take advantage of myriad opportunities, both on the national level and at Chapter meetings and events, to network and exchange ideas. Members gain access to exclusive content, including a subscription to the Journal of Cosmetic Science, our flagship publication, published six times per year. Members also take advantage of Continuing Education courses sponsored by the SCC. These courses aim to further improve the qualifications of cosmetic scientists by setting high ethical, professional and educational standards. Of course, members also participate in a range of professional and social events at 19 affiliated Chapters. Join us today!! Go to our website page:

4 Society of 10 th Annual Golf Outing Lake of Isles April 27, :00am Registration 11:00am Lunch 12:15pm Golf Shotgun start time 5:00pm Cocktails 6:00pm Dinner and prizes Cost - $230 per player/ $920 per foursome Company Hole Sponsorship - $100 Also available, Lunch, Cocktail and Raffle Prize Sponsorship Discounted Hotel Rooms available for 4/26 and 4/27 Contact Dan O Neill doneill@charkit.com Same Location for 2017 Lake of Isles 1 Clubhouse Drive North Stonington, CT 06359

5 Volunteer s Needed: Please consider volunteering for a committee position with the CTSCC, or recommending someone you know who may be interested. Benefits include: Exposure to the national SCC organization Experience in a trade organization, suitable for adding to a resume Excellent networking opportunities A voice in future speakers and helping to decide the direction of the chapter Please contact any board or committee member with questions or for additional details

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7 Heat and Hair: Finding the Balance Between Style Needs and Hair Health by Jaesik Hahn, Amy Marconnet, and Tahira Reid Despite widespread use of flat irons among individuals with textured hair, surprisingly little is known about how one should use this device to cater to each person s unique needs. For example, flat iron manufacturers recommend temperature ranges for different hair types to achieve the best results; however, after compiling their guidelines, one can easily identify the ambiguity of their hair typing (e.g., thin, fine, wavy, curly). More problematic is the inconsistency in the hair typing and corresponding temperature recommendation across manufacturers. 1 In fact, the meaning of the best results itself is already nebulous enough because everyone s grooming and styling goals are unique. On the other hand, both users and scientific studies have repeatedly reported the detrimental effects of heat on hair. Studies generally focused on the mechanism of heat damage and contributed to better understanding of how heat degrades hair structures by reducing mechanical strength and structural integrity of the strands. 2-6 Unfortunately, while doing so, they have neglected the crucial question of flat iron users: Given my grooming/styling goals, how much heat can I use without severe damage? This is not an easy question to answer because the interactions between various factors involved in flat ironing are not well understood. Thus, even the most experienced hair stylist can only answer broadly that too much heat can be bad because the specific consequence of using heat is uncertain. This causes a problem because uncertainty breeds careless optimism and unreasonable pessimism in extreme cases. The result is either overuse of heat and ensuing frustration of burned hair or an unnecessarily exaggerated fear of heat. Both extremes often lead to the complete avoidance of heat. The recent Natural Hair Movement among significant numbers of people with textured hair has provided both utilitarian and ideological perspectives that support the reduced use of heat and chemicals. However, if one simply avoids heat due to the fear of heat damage while repressing the desire to try new styles that require the use of heat, it greatly limits one s creative self and freedom of style choice (Continued on page 8)

8 Heat and Hair: Finding the Balance (Continued from page 7) In fact, a recent study on user needs in the online hair care community revealed that there is a persisting need for temporary hair straightening, and the methods based on water setting are sought after despite their inferior styling efficacy due to the fear of heat. 6 Identification of this need and the lack of solutions led to an effort to better understand how heat behaves in human hair. A brief literature review demonstrated that there is a lack of studies on the thermal properties of hair. Thermal properties such as the thermal diffusivity quantify how well heat moves through or spreads in different materials. So, our efforts began with developing a technique to accurately measure thermal properties of hair based on a method originally developed by Anders Jonas Ångstrom in 1860 for long metal rods. 7 To adapt it for the small size of the hair samples, we use an infrared microscope that captures movies of the temperature of the hair strands over time while one point along the hair is heated with a metal wire heater. The heat diffuses (spreads) out from the heater along the length of the hair strand as shown in Figure 1. (Continued on page 9)

9 Heat and Hair: Finding the Balance (Continued from page 9) Using the measured thermal properties, we then created a heat transfer model between a flat iron and a hair bundle. Additionally, we flat ironed a hair bundle with an automated flat ironing mechanism and recorded temperature changes on the bundle with an infrared camera (see Figure 2). At lowtemperature settings, the measured change in temperature along the length of a hair bundle over time is predicted well by our simulation (see Figure 3). (Continued on page 10) Figure 3: Comparison between simulation (red) and experimental results (blue) of the temperature profile over the length of hair bundle when flat ironing at a gliding speed of 1 cm/s at 115 C. The region enclosed by the black dotted lines indicates where the flat iron moving to the right is located.

10 Heat and Hair: Finding the Balance (Continued from page 10) Next, we measured the change in fatigue strength, curl index, and curl diameter to characterize the tradeoffs between the three according to various flat ironing parameters, which include gliding speed, temperature setting, number of passes, and the presence of heat protectant. The results led to the formulation of the guidelines for flat iron usage depending on one s grooming/styling goals which are defined as a combination of the three components: hair strength, styling efficacy, and curl preservation (Figure 4). (Continued on page 11) Figure 4: Visual representation of the tradeoffs that exist between styling goals of users: (a) no heat for hair strength and curl preservation; (b) flat ironing at a low temperature (around 100 C) for curl preservation with moderate straightening; (c) flat ironing at a low temperature with a heat protectant for better straightening efficacy at the expense of slightly higher curl loss; and (d) flat ironing at a high temperature (around 200 C) for high straightening efficacy at the expense of great loss in hair strength and curls. Use a high gliding speed (around 5 cm/s) to minimize the loss of hair strength.

11 Heat and Hair: Finding the Balance (Continued from page 10) Concluding Remarks This study is a first step toward characterizing the effects of various factors in the styling practices that include heat. The initial motivation was to empower flat iron users by eliminating the fear of heat originating from uncertainty and helping them make informed decisions about their styling practices. However, over the course of research, we realized that our work can also provide hair product developers and professional hair stylists with deeper insights into the trade-offs between different grooming/styling goals. We hope that innovation in new product development, use of existing products, and formulation of grooming/styling systems will stem from the new insights to better serve the unique needs of textured hair in the increasingly diversified and customized market. References 1. J. Hahn, T. Dandridge, P. Seshadri, A. Marconnet, and T. Reid, Integrating design methodology, thermal sciences, and customer needs to address challenges in the hair care industry, ASME Paper No. DETC (2015). 2. R. McMullen and J. Jachowicz, Thermal degradation of hair. Effect of curling irons, J. Cosmet. Sci., 49, (1998). 3. Y. Zhou, R. Rigoletto, D. Koelmel, G. Zhang, T.W. Gillece, L. Foltis, D.J. Moore, X. Qu, and C. Sun, The effect of various cosmetic pretreatments on protecting hair from thermal damage by hot flat ironing, J. Cosmet. Sci., 62, (2011). 4. P. Christian, N. Winsey, M. Whatmough, and P.A. Cornwell, The effects of water on heat-styling damage, J. Cosmet. Sci., 62, (2011). 5. A. Dussaud, B. Rana, and H.T. Lam, Progressive hair straightening using an automated flat iron: function of silicones, J. Cosmet. Sci., 64, (2013). 6. J. Hahn, A. Marconnet, and T. Reid, Using do-ityourself practitioners as lead users: a case study on the hair care industry, J. Mech. Design, 138(10), (2016). 7. A.J. Angström, XVII. New method of determining the thermal conductibility of bodies, Lond. Edinb. Dubl. Phil. Mag., 25, (1863). Acknowledgement The authors gratefully acknowledge financial support from Procter and Gamble. Reprinted from the New York Society of Cosmetiscope October Volume 23, Number 8

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13 March 15- New England SCC Natural Trends 22- New York SCC Fragrance Seminar (joint ASP meeting) 29- Long Island SCC Ancient Viruses April 25- New York SCC Middle East Trends and Regulations May Supplier's Day

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15 Henkel Senior Scientist Body Care The role of the Senior Scientist is to develop new Body Care products, to ensure they meet performance criteria and to collaborate with a cross-functional team to bring these products to market. The Senior Scientist provides lead on assigned projects, which involves problem solving, data generation, analysis, and interpretation. Consistently lead key tasks to completion by conducting well-designed experiments, thoroughly understand product development and business processes, regulatory requirements, and test methods required to deliver a quality product, and conduct laboratory experiments. Represents the department on technical issues; this role provides a broad spectrum of expertise. Identifies and assesses technical business opportunities and/or problems and provides recommendations to management for solutions to these problems, and makes independent decisions with limited direction. What we offer Develop products or technologies for Body Care applications, which meet product performance, quality and timing requirements. Work with a cross-functional team to bring new products to market. Develop new methodologies and tests designed to solve specific problems. Interprets results and provides recommendations. Develop, recommend, and execute solid R&D approaches to support key product initiatives and business strategy. Conducts own laboratory experiments. May also supervise work of laboratory technicians or more junior level scientists. Maintains documentation of lab results, conclusions, and next steps. Create technical reports; effectively presents experimental data and results; consults with external resources Who we are looking for BS/MS plus 5-8 years of relevant experience; PhD plus 0-5 years of relevant experience Experience in related field, preferably Consumer Products/Body Care. Strong problem solving skills and positive attitude. Strong communication and analytical skills. Quick learner Strong agility in learning new computer systems. Henkel is an equal opportunity employer. We evaluate qualified applicants without regard to race, color, religion, sex, national origin, disability, veteran status, and other legally protected characteristics. Apply online if this sounds like your next challenge. Refer to the job ID mentioned above and get one step closer to starting your new job at Henkel. Discover our winning culture: Employment contact Tiffany Fielder phone: (203) tfielder@zotos.com

16 Wacker Chemical Corporation Marketing Manager WACKER SILICONES is one of the world's leading silicone manufacturers with silicone-based system solutions with more than 3,000 different products - silicone fluids, rubbers and resins, silanes and pyrogenic silica. At our Adrian, MI site, we are currently looking for a Marketing Manager. This position is responsible for driving the strategic direction of Consumer Care and other assigned markets to result in growth & profitability. This includes the creation and management of a formal Market Development Plan (MDP), as well as, providing market segment leadership within business team Your Tasks Develops, plans and executes strategic, operational and market development activities Fosters innovation by strategically driving product/technology development based on market and customer needs. This responsibility can include project leadership for market or research projects, as well as, customer partnering leadership Conducts competitive analysis, coordinates and prioritizes business opportunities within the Personal Care markets, creates and maintains pricing strategies, leads market focus team meetings, support short and long term business plan creation. Identify, research and execute additional market development and innovation projects in support of growth of the market segments to ensure short and long term business goals Defines and executes marketing budget, demand planning, supply chain interaction, and product portfolio Reviews, analyzes and manages risk mitigation, material allocation and regulatory review for responsible market segments. Works with Business Team on sales contracts and provides an internal resource to Sales Managers May also take on role of account lead, regional inter-regional, with global interaction Manages promotional activities, advertising, trade shows, product literature and brochures, conferences and symposiums, product roll outs and introductions. Provides qualified sales lead generation and manages lead generation system Your Profile Bachelor's Degree in a scientific field is preferred, as is an MBA or other graduate degree Three - Five years of Marketing experience is preferred Must be capable of working in the US without current or future visa support Be part of a family. Across all nations. We are looking forward to your online application at Reference Code Apply Here: PI Employment contact Tiffany Fielder phone: (203) tfielder@zotos.com

17 Scenes from our January Meeting We are a chapter of the National Society of. The National Organization is dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science. The Society strives to increase and disseminate scientific information through meetings, continuing education courses and publications. For more information please make sure to visit our website: c/o Jennifer Macary, CT SCC Newsletter Editor Phone: (475) jennifer.macary@henkel.com