shea innovations turn functional into fabulous
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- Elwin Phelps
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1 shea innovations turn functional into fabulous
2 from nature to natural Shea is the most widely used botanically derived emollient in cosmetics. Why? Because it enables personal care brands to answer both corporate and consumer desires for products that are kind to the planet and fabulous for the skin. But not all shea-based emollients are created equal. And nobody knows shea better than AAK, the lipid experts who first introduced shea to the cosmetics industry decades ago. Today AAK shea technology helps turn nature s goodness into an increasing number of natural beauty products. How? By bringing you innovative ingredients that put functionality first, but also perform high in sustainability and social responsibility. 3
3 Lipex L sens Highly polar semi-solid shea gel Lipex SheaTris Bioactive shea triterpene concentrate BIOACTIVE emollient Lipex SheaLight Eco-designed liquid shea ester Lipex SheaLiquid TR Fully traceable semi-liquid shea oil innovations with shea Lipex SheaClear Clear liquid shea oil Lipex SheaSoft Soft and creamy semi-solid shea butter SOLID emollients LIQUID emollients From solids to liquids to bioactives, AAK brings you a full spectrum of high performance functional ingredients rooted in sustainably and responsibly sourced shea. Safe, stable and sophisticated that s what our advanced technology is all about. The techniques we ve pioneered over the years have optimised the physical and Lipex Shea High stability semi-solid shea butter Lipex 102 Solid refined shea butter Lipex 205 High stabillity liquid shea oil sensory characteristics of crude shea butter to enable the creation of safe, stable and sophisticated formulations. Formulations that help you meet the growing demand for more natural beauty products. So, if your task is to create an irresistibly indulgent body lotion, face cream or lip balm that your customers will feel good about buying and that their skin will absolutely love, our shea innovations will make it a whole lot easier for SOLID CRUDE SHEA BUTTER you to get it right. SHEA KERNELS Top choice for new launches Research shows that shea remains the preferred botanical emollient in skin care and is the top choice for new product launches. [Source: Mintel] 5
4 solid, liquid, or a splash of both? Our unique value-adding processing allows for the optimisation of crude shea butter to improve suitability and broaden the range of opportunities for cosmetic use. From solid and semi-solid ingredients offering high temperature stability, low odour and improved colour, to liquid derivatives that eliminate crystallisation and enable both clear and sprayable formulations, our shea innovations deliver just what you need so that you can deliver just what you promise. Innovations with solid shea Our range of solid and semi-solid shea butters offers varying melting profiles, crystallisation properties and formulation benefits. Lipex SheaSoft, for example, is an advanced film-forming shea butter with documented skin-moisturising properties, making it an excellent base when creating luxurious hand creams, body butters, etc. (see formulation page 21). Our gel-like Lipex L sens, on the other hand, is a unique combination of soybean glycerides and shea butter unsaponifiables that brings moisturising, conditioning and light-reflecting benefits, perfect for creating dazzling and indulgent lip care products (see formulation page 17). Melting profiles for solid shea butters Solid Fat Content (%) Temperature ( C) Lipex SheaSoft improves skin barrier TEWL (g/h* m 2 ) BG ET 1h 2h 3h 4h Lipex 102 Lipex Shea Lipex SheaSoft Lipex SheaSoft Hexadecane Like most of our products, both Lipex SheaSoft and Lipex L sens are COSMOS approved, making them ideal for creating eco-conscious formulations. Order free samples and download product guides at aakpersonalcare.com More than just a marketing accent Did you know that shea is often used in high levels, appearing among the first natural ingredients found on product labels? [Source: Mintel] 7
5 Innovations with liquid shea Liquid shea saves time and energy Lipex SheaLight is a polar shea based ester What s so special about liquid shea from AAK? Well, for starters, our shea-based liquid ingredients can save you both time and energy, which makes them ideal for creating low energy formulations (see formulation page 19). Moreover, they have been specially developed to deliver improved skin feel and greater versatility. Our awardwinning Lipex SheaLight, for example, is an eco-designed, multifunctional shea butter ester that can be used as a sensory modifier and performance enhancer. It reduces viscosity, improves spreadability and lowers tackiness to deliver a unique silky-smooth, Solid Liquid % powdery % greasy Solid Slipperiness Thickness of residue powdery skin feel (see formulations pages 15, 19 and 21). And our Lipex SheaLiquid TR has the advantage of being sourced through a fully traceable supply chain. That means it can be mapped all the way from your end products to the women in West Africa engaged with our direct shea sourcing programme (see formulations pages Time (min) Energy (W/kg) 30% time saved 48% energy saved Amount of residue Lipex SheaLight Lipex , 17 and 19). Lipex SheaLight is eco-designed and ECOCERT approved, an excellent choice for modifying sensory properties in eco-conscious formulations. Order free samples and download product guides at aakpersonalcare.com 9
6 bioactives Our naturally-derived bioactive, Lipex SheaTris, is a well-characterised lipophilic ingredient for safe use within beauty and personal care applications. Good skin tolerance with well documented soothing and calming properties makes it well suited for premium facial skin care, dermo-cosmetics and applications for sensitive skin. Lipex SheaTris is a shea butter triterpene ester concentrate shown to protect against environmental stress and premature skin ageing. It delivers high functionality at levels as low as 0.5% and is suitable for producing ultra-light textures (see formulation page 15). The multi-protecting hero for your skin With all the bioactivity offered by triterpene esters, Lipex SheaTris is a tried and true hero when it comes to protecting skin. It has been shown in tests to provide skin with protection against collagen-degrading enzymes and inflammation caused by urban dust, chemical and UV stress. Bioactivities of shea triterpene esters Anti-inflammatory Collagen preserving» Chemical induction» Inhibit collagenases» UV induction» Reduce MMP-3 gene expression» Urban dust induction Order samples and download product guide at aakpersonalcare.com Reduce irritation» Insect bites Triterpene esters in shea Enhance skin barrier» Thicker and better defined epidermis 11
7 exquisite formulations for high performance skin care
8 Shea Innovations DermaRich Face Moisturiser can be used morning and evening after cleansing to naturally replenish lipid levels and leave even the driest skin feeling beautifully smooth, soft and comfortable. Nourishing, protecting and easily absorbed, this delightful cream brings a truly pampering quality to one s daily face care routine. Shea Innovations DermaRich Face Moisturiser Technical benefits Oil-in-water emulsion using our fully traceable liquid shea butter, Lipex SheaLiquid TR, as a base, supported by our eco-designed liquid shea ester, Lipex SheaLight. Low-spreading Lipex SheaLiquid TR provides moisturising and conditioning properties without the risk of crystallisation associated with standard refined shea butters. Lipex SheaLight is used as a sensory enhancer to improve aesthetics, imparting a silicone-type effect and improving the overall end-user experience. The bioactive shea triterpene concentrate Lipex SheaTris has been added for its proven skin strengthening and protecting properties. Formula AAK % face moisturiser Aqua ad 100 Lipex SheaLiquid TR Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (or) Butyrospermum Parkii Oil 7.00 Lipex PreAct Canola Oil 2.50 Glycerin 3.00 Lipex SheaLight Shea Butter Ethyl Esters 2.00 Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate 2.00 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.00 Lipex SheaTris Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract 1.00 Lipex Cellect Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides 1.00 Xanthan Gum 0.15 Sodium Gluconate 0.10 Download complete formulation at aakpersonalcare.com/shea-innovations 15
9 Shea Innovations Smooth and Shine Lip Treatment lip treatment Technical benefits Easy balm formulation based on Lipex L sens, an excellent vegetable-based alternative to lanolin as it shares the same properties in regard to touch, structure, gloss, film forming and water-absorbing capacities. With its high refractive index, Lipex L sens adds shine and light-reflecting benefits to anhydrous formulations that are applied topically, making it particularly suitable for lip applications. Other features of Lipex L sens include high polarity, which ensures uniform pigment dispersion, as well as good film-forming properties that improve moisturisation and sensory benefits. This beautifully simple formula is based on a high concentration of Lipex L sens a unique combination of soybean glycerides and shea butter unsaponifiables with softening, moisturising and light-reflecting properties. Designed to soothe, soften and enhance the appearance of the lips, this balm can be used as both a day treatment and an overnight conditioning mask. Its rich, creamy texture adheres brilliantly to the lips and leaves them with a natural, healthy sheen. Formula AAK % Lipex L sens Soybean Glycerides (and) Butyrospermum Parkii ButterUnsaponifiables Lipex SheaLiquid TR Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (or) Butyrospermum Parkii Oil Mango Butter Dimer Dilinoleyl Esters/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer Cera Alba 2.50 Parfum q.s. Download complete formulation at aakpersonalcare.com/shea-innovations 17
10 body lotion Shea Innovations Women Love Body Lotion Technical benefits Lipex SheaLiquid TR does not require heating in the manufacturing process, making it an excellent choice for this kind of eco-friendly formulation. Additionally enhanced with our eco-designed liquid shea ester, Lipex SheaLight, for increased absorption and for providing a silky soft skin feel. Formula AAK % Women are at the heart of this caring, nourishing and eco-friendly body lotion designed to be used morning and evening to keep skin in optimal condition. Made with shea that is fully traceable from our production in Sweden to the women in West Africa engaged through our Kolo Nafaso direct shea sourcing programme, Shea Innovation Women Love Body Lotion delivers in all areas environment, enrichment, empowerment and tender loving skin care. Aqua ad 100 Lipex SheaLiquid TR Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (or) Butyrospermum Parkii Oil Lipex SheaLight Shea Butter Ethyl Esters 5.00 Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate 3.50 Glycerin 3.00 Sorbitan Laurate 2.50 Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Xanthan Gum 1.00 Magnesium Aluminium Silicate 0.50 Sodium Gluconate 0.10 Parfum q.s. Download complete formulation at aakpersonalcare.com/shea-innovations 19
11 Shea Innovations Cashmere Soft Hand Care Technical benefits Simple and highly effective formulation based on a combination of high performance shea ingredients soft and creamy Lipex SheaSoft and our eco-designed liquid shea ester, Lipex SheaLight. hand care Inspired by the feel of luxury fabrics on skin, our Shea Innovations Cashmere Soft Hand Care delivers the same indulgent touch thanks to a rich emollient base featuring Lipex SheaSoft. This luscious formula made from 97% natural ingredients effectively seals in moisture to rebalance and rehydrate the skin, leaving even the driest hands looking and feeling soothed, softened and restored. The rapid crystallisation pattern of Lipex SheaSoft creates the smooth, rich base and forms a protective lipid barrier that reduces trans-epidermal water loss and seals in moisture when applied to the skin. Lipex SheaLight is used as a sensory enhancer to improve aesthetics, imparting a silicone-type effect and improving the overall end-user experience. Formula AAK % Aqua ad 100 Lipex SheaSoft Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Lipex SheaLight Shea Butter Ethyl Esters 9.00 Glycerin 5.00 Cetearyl Alcohol 3.50 Zea Mays Starch 3.50 Stearic Acid (and) Palmitic Acid 2.00 Glyceryl Stearate 1.00 Akoline SL Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate 0.75 Xanthan gum 0.50 Parfum Download complete formulation at aakpersonalcare.com/shea-innovations q.s. 21
12 Did you know...» Nearly 16 million women in West Africa are involved in the collecting and trade of shea.» Whenever you choose our shea-based ingredients for your formulations you make a positive difference to the communities that depend on shea for their livelihood. a responsible business choice Increasing demand from cosmetic manufacturers helps build a bigger, better shea industry, halting rural-urban migration and securing the future of shea. As of 2017, our Kolo Nafaso direct sourcing programme has reached over 115,000 women and actively contributes to socio-economic development in the region. Based on Fair Trade principles, the Kolo Nafaso programme is carried out in close collaboration with the Global Shea Alliance and was recognised with a Sustainability Pioneer Award in Visit aakpersonalcare.com/sustainability to learn more about how choosing shea from AAK contributes to sustainable development in West Africa. Follow us on LinkedIn! 23
13 2018 It s what we do. Push the boundaries of possibilities through technologically advanced natural emollients. It s what we challenge you to do. Use our value-adding solutions to develop innovative and superior quality formulations. It s what we can do together. Change perceptions of natural by delivering sustainable performance without compromise. AAK Sweden AB AAK Personal Care SE Karlshamn Sweden Phone AAK USA Inc. 499 Thornall St., 5th Floor Edison, NJ USA Phone AAK China Ltd. 6F, Building 6, #3601 Dongfang Road Shanghai China Phone Contact information for our international distributors can be found at aakpersonalcare.com
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