2018 FORMULATION GUIDE
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1 2018 FORMULATION GUIDE
2 The infinity A The A incorporates the infinity symbol and represents the A of taste ( Aji ) and Amino acids. It signifies our infinite ambitions to pursue, master and popularize this taste ( Aji ), to drive the evolution of and develop the value of Amino acids using leading-edge bioscience and fine chemical technologies, and to promote global sustainability. The line from A to j The j represents a person, suggesting people joining together and finding joy in cooking, eating and comfortable life styles enriched by taste ( Aji ) and Amino acids. The line from the bottom of j extending upward to the right This line expresses the future growth and development of the AJINOMOTO Group.technologies, and to promote global sustainability.
3 CONTENTS 4 AMINO ACID CONCEPT: PRODEW 12 COACERVATION 18 INSTANT FOAMING CLEANSER 22 NEW TRENDS 27 FORMULATION FINDER
4
5 AMINO ACID CONCEPT: PRODEW
6 AMINO ACID CONCEPT FOR HAIR CARE AJINOMOTO Group being the specialist in amino acids technology, our Amino Acid cocktails Prodew use this knowhow to enhance your hair care and skincare formulations. Prodew 500 Prodew 500 is an Amino acid blend modeled after the protein composition of the Cell Membrane Complex (CMC) Asp Ser Gly Val His Glu Pro Ala IIe Lys Thr Tyr Leu Phe Arg Constituent amino acids of protein in CMC* Amino Acids Mix of PRODEW 500 *Cys and Met are excluded. J. A. Swift et. al., Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemist (1974) MAIN PROPERTIES: Efficient moisturizer & Conditioner Synergetic uptake of PCA and Amino Acids by hair and scalp Provides Color retention of dyed hair Increases hair luster Controls Hair damage Increases Hair hydrophobicity Increases Hair tensile strength Preservative free 0% 2% 5% Hair Tresses treated with Prodew 500 6
7 ACAC-SH PEARL SILICONE-FREE HAIR SHAMPOO Amisoft ECS-22W maintains hair moisture and prevents damage of hair cuticle. Eldew PS-203R and Prodew 500 improve hair hydrophobicity and shine and prevent dry scalp. Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier A Amisoft ECS -22W (30%) 25,00 Primary surfactant AJINOMOTO CO. INC. COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE (30%) 10,00 Foam booster DEHYTON K / BASF SODIUM LAUROAMPHOACETATE( 32%) 15,00 Secondary surfactant MIRANOL L-32 / SOLVAY DECYL GLUCOSIDE (50%) 4,00 Foam booster PLANTACARE 2000UP / BASF Eldew PS-203R 0,20 Emollient AJINOMOTO CO. INC. WATER balance B ACRYLATES CROSSPOLYMER-4 6,50 Thickener CARBOPOL AQUA SF-2 / LUBRIZOL WATER 15,00 C Prodew 500 (50%) 2,00 Moisturizer AJINOMOTO CO. INC. D GLYCOL DISTEARATE 1,50 Pearlizing agent E PRESERVATIVE q.s. F CITRIC ACID (30%) aq. to ph 5.8 3,57 ph-adjuster The level of Citric acid is presented as a rough guide PROCEDURE: 1. Mix part A with gentle stirring at room temperature. 2. Add part B to mixture at room temperature. 3. Add part C at room temperature. 4. Heat mixture of part ABC to C. 5. Add part D at C. 6. Cool down to room temperature. 7. Add part E and F at room temperature and keep stirring until uniform. TECHNICAL INFORMATION: ph: 5.80 Viscosity: 3,800-5,500 mpa.s (64, 30rpm, 30 sec., 25 C). Stability: 1, 25, 45, 50 o C, Cycle(-5<=> 40 C) for 3 months. 7
8 ASC AMINO CONDITIONER This conditioner features amino-derived materials that provide smoothing and detangling, enhance the appearance and feel, and improve the overall condition of the hair. Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier A Water Diluent Deionized Water / Kewpie Co, dist. by AJINOMOTO NA Amisafe AL Prodew Amino acid conditioning agent / Smoothing, control Amino acid coctail / Smoothing, color protection, shine, luster AJINOMOTO CO. INC. AJINOMOTO CO. INC. B Stearalkonium Chloride 1.50 Cationic Conditioner Ammonyx 4B / Stepan Cetrimonium Chloride 1.00 Cationic Conditioner Ammonyx CETAC / Stepan CAE 0.50 Eldew PS-203R 0.50 Amino Acid based Cationic Conditioner Amino Acid Based Emollient/ Damage care AJINOMOTO CO. INC. AJINOMOTO CO. INC. Emulsifying Wax NF 0.70 Emulsifier Polawax / Croda C Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexyl Glycerin 1.00 Preservative Euxyl PE-9010 / Schülke & Mayr PROCEDURE: Charge batch vessel with water and begin heating to 75 C with stirring. Add Amisafe AL-01 and Prodew 500. Combine Phase B and add to Phase A at 75ºC. Allow to mix 20 minutes at 75 C then begin cooling while maintaining controlled mixing. When batch reaches 50 ºC, add preservative. Continue cooling and mixing to room temperature. TECHNICAL INFORMATION: ph: Viscosity: 11,000 mpa.s at 3 rpm, spindle #3, 25ºC, 30 sec (Brookfield). Stability: >3 weeks at 25, 40, 45 C. 8
9 AMINO ACID CONCEPT FOR HAIR CARE Prodew 600 Prodew 600 is an Amino acid blend modeled after the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) in the Stratum Corneum. COMPOSITION NMF (%) Amino Acids 42.2 PCA 12.2 Lactic Acid 11.3 Urea 6.7 Others 27.6 MAIN PROPERTIES: The Amino Acid composition of Prodew 600 is almost the same as the NMF Basic Amino Acids, 13.7% Acidic Amino Acids, 9.4% Basic Amino Acids, 13.7% Acidic Amino Acids, 9.3% Cyclic Amino Acids, 0.9% Cyclic Amino Acids, 0.9% Neutral Amino Acids, 44.7% Hydroxyl Amino Acids, 31.3% Neutral Amino Acids, 44.8% Hydroxyl Amino Acids, 31.3% Amino Acid composition of NMF H.W.Spier, G.Pascher, Der Hautarzt, Vol.7, (1956) Amino Acid composition of Prodew 600 Prodew 600 in a skin toner and skin cream strongly reduces fine wrinkles Before application After application Penetrates into the Stratum Corneum and improves the water content in the skin Improves the skin barrier function Preservative free 9
10 NST-2 SKIN TONER A skin toner for dry skin, formulated with Prodew 600 (Technical Data Sheet N o e ~ 0470E) Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier A Sodium Hyaluronate 0,03 Mosturizer FCH-120 / KIKKOMAN BIOCHEMIFA B Water 76,80 C Prodew 600 5,00 Mosturizer AJINOMOTO CO. INC. Butylene Glycol 4,00 Mosturizer PEG-8 8,00 Mosturizer Alcohol 3,00 Preservative q.s. D 5% NaOH 1,10 PROCEDURE: 1. Add part A to part B while stirring 2. After confirmation of dissolution, add part C to part A while stirring. 3. Add part D to part A to adjust the ph. TECHNICAL INFORMATION: ph: 5.5 Stability: 50 C, 45 C, 25 C, 0 C, -5 C, Cycle(-5 C~40 C) for one month. 10
11 CRP-3 MOISTURIZING CREAM Prodew 600 imparts a long lasting moisturizing effect (Technical Data Sheet N o e, 0390E, 0400E, 0410E, 0440E, 0450E, 0460E, 0470E) Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier A Squalane 3,00 Emolient Microcrystalline Wax 2,00 Emolient Isopropyl Myristate 5,00 Emolient Refined Microcrystalline Wax / NIKKO RIKA IPM / KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO Dimethicone 0,50 Emolient KF-96A-10CS / SHIN-ETSU Cetyl Alcohol 3,00 Emolient KALCOL 6098 / KAO Behenyl Alcohol 1,00 Emolient KALCOL 6098 / KAO Glyceryl Stearate 3,50 Emulsifier Polysorbate 60 2,00 Emulsifier NIKKOL TS-10V / NIKKO CHEMICALS NIKKOL TS-10V / NIKKO CHEMICALS B Amisoft HS-11P 0,30 Co-emulsifier AJINOMOTO CO. INC. Glycerin 8,00 Moisturizer Butylene Glycol 4,00 Moisturizer Prodew 600 2,00 Moisturizer AJINOMOTO CO. INC. 5% NaOH 0,80 Preservative Water q.s. balance PROCEDURE: 1. Dissolve part A at 80 o C. 2. Dissolve part B at 80 o C. 3. Add part B to part A while stirring and emulsify with homomixer at 3000rpm, 5min. 4. Cool down to room temperature while stirring. TECHNICAL INFORMATION: ph: 5.5 Viscosity: 25,000-45,000 mpa.s (B type, rotor N o.4, 12rpm, 30sec., 25 C). Stability: 45 C, 25 C, 0 C, -5 C, Cycle(-5 C~40 C), for one month. 11
12
13 COACERVATION
14 COACERVATION How to get conditioning effect and damage care prevention on Hair. Our solution : Formulate an Amino-Shampoo combining Amisoft CS-22 and cationic polymer. AMINO-SHAMPOO CONTAINS AMINO ACID SURFACTANTS Key words Non-silicone Sulfate-free Natural concept Gentle Scalp care Absorption Moisture - Silicone causes "built-up effect" on our hair. - Shampoo without Silicone has a problem of "squeaky feeling" when it is rinsed. The solution is Amino Acid surfactant / "COACERVATION" Composition of a basic Hair Shampoo: Action (wt % ) Example Water 60~80 Foaming cleansing surfactant 15~20 Foam booster 2~5 Anionic surfactant Amphoteric surfactant Fatty acid alkanolamides Betaine Thickening polymer 0.5~2 Xantham gum, cellulose Conditioning agents 0.1~1 Quaternaty ammonium compounds, Quaternized polymer Preservative - Others - Citric acid, NaOH EDTA ph 4.8~6.8 Lipophilic part Hydrophobic part Anionic surfactant Amphoteric surfactant - Ex.: SLES, Amisoft, Amilite Counter Ion - Ex.: Cocamidopropyl betaine Cationic polymer Ex.: Polyquaternium Lipophilic part Hydrophobic part Anionic surfactant - Counter Ion INTERACTION COACERVATION Cationic polymer 14
15 Start of rinsing 1. Solubilization 1. Soluble Spherical micelle Cationic polymer Dilution 2. Saturation 2. Soluble Dilution 3. Insoluble = Coacervation Making complex of hemimicelles of surfactants and cationic polymers = Coacervate 3. Hydrophobicity Cationic polymer Hemi micelle Dilution 4. Soluble 4. electrostatic / molecular attraction Monomer End of rinsing AMISOFT CAN ENABLE EASIER COACERVATION THAN OTHER ANIONIC SURFACTANTS. 15
16 COACERVATE ON HAIR DURING WASHING PROCESS AMINO SHAMPOO SLES SHAMPOO The coacervate of Amisoft can stay on hair better than SLES's, and can prevent hair damage. AMINO SHAMPOO SLES SHAMPOO SEM picture of hair MEASUREMENT OF KINETIC FRICTION DEMONSTRATES BENEFITS OF USING AMISOFT IN A SHAMPOO FORMULATION: Force-Voltage Transducer Natural hair tresses about 15cm long (1g weight) tested on a Friction tester (KES-SE Katotech) 16 Amisoft Shows good smoothness during rinsing
17 CSAN-220CP TRANSPARENT HAIR SHAMPOO Many natural ingredients are used for the formulation. Amisoft CS-22 and MS-11 provide rich foam and smooth hair feel. Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier A Amisoft CS-22 (25%) 10,0 Amisoft MS-11 1,0 DECYL GLUCOSIDE 8,0 Foaming cleansing surfactant Foaming cleansing surfactant Foaming cleansing surfactant AJINOMOTO CO. INC. AJINOMOTO CO. INC. DISODIUM COCO-GLUCOSIDE CITRATE(30%) 5,0 Solubilizer Plantacare 2000up / BASF GLYCERIN 5,0 Humectant Ajidew NL-50 (50%) 2,0 Conditioning agent AJINOMOTO CO. INC. Amisafe AL-01 0,2 Conditioning agent AJINOMOTO CO. INC. WATER Balance Balance PRESERVATIVE q.s. q.s. B 2% GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 26,6 Conditioning agent JAGUAR EXCEL / Solvay Novecare B 2% XANTHAN GUM 15,0 Thickening polymer Keltrol CG-SFT / CP Kelco C CITRIC ACID 10% aq. 2,8 ph adjustment The level of citric acid is presented as a rough guide PROCEDURE: 1. Heat part A to 80 o C while stirring and dissolve. 2. Add part B to A while stirring slowly and mix well at 80 o C 3. Add part C to AB while stirring slowly and mix well at 80 o C 4. Add part D and mix well. TECHNICAL INFORMATION: ph: 5.90 Viscosity: 4,000 mpa.s (B type, rotor N o.3, 12rpm, 30sec., 25 C). Stability: -5 C, 25 C, 45 C, Cycle(-5, 40 C) for 3 months. 17
18
19 INSTANT FOAMING CLEANSER
20 INSTANT FOAMING CLEANSER In addition to efficiency and mildness, end users expectations for facial cleansers now include ease of use and rich foam. The below formulation combined with a suitable dispenser meets these expectations. SP-01-CS FACIAL CLEANSER PUMP Amisoft based self-foaming type facial cleanser. Ajidew NL-50 leaves smooth skin-feel after washing. Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier A Amisoft CS-22 (25%) 33,0 Foaming surfactant AJINOMOTO CO. INC. DECYL GLUCOSIDE 4,0 Foaming surfactant PLANTACARE 2000UP / BASF BUTYLENE GLYCOL 5,0 Moisturizer PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL PCA ISOSTEARATE 2,0 Stabilizer PYROTER CPI-40 / Nihon emulsion B Ajidew NL-50 (50%) 1,0 Moisturizer AJINOMOTO CO. INC. PRESERVATIVE q.s. WATER balance balance PROCEDURE: 1. Dissolve all ingredients at o C while stirring. 2. Cool down to 30 o C. TECHNICAL INFORMATION: ph: 6.80 Viscosity: 3 mpa.s (B type, rotor N o.1, 30rpm, 30sec., 25 C). Stability: -5 C, 25 C, 45 C, Cycle (-5 C~40 C) for one month. 20
21 ACAC-DMS-18 FOAMING MAKE-UP REMOVER Easy-to-use self foaming-type make-up remover. Amilite GCK-12H is employed for its foamability and fresh skin afterfeel. Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier A HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE 1.1 Make up cleansing PERLEAM EX / NOF PEG-20 GLYCERYL TRIISOSTEARATE 2.7 Emulsifying agent EMALEX GWIS320 / NIHON EMULSION B WATER balance DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL 10.0 Solubilizer GLYCERIN 10.0 Humectant Amilite GCK-12H (30%) 10.0 Cleansing agent AJINOMOTO CO. INC. LAURAMIDOPROPLY HYDROXYSULTAINE(30%) 10.0 Cleansing agent SOFTAZOLINE LSB / KAWAKEN FINE CHEMICAL LAURYL GLUCOSIDE (50%) 2.0 Foam booster PLANTACARE 1200 UP / BASF C DISODIUM EDTA 0.1 Chelating agent Preservatives qs Preservative PROCEDURE: 1. Mix part A until uniform at room temperature. 2. Mix part B until uniform at room temperature. 3. Add part B to part A slowly and continuously. 4. Keep stirring until clear. 5. Heat the mixture and add part C about C. 6. Keep stirring ang heating until uniform. 7. Cool down to room temperature. TECHNICAL INFORMATION: ph: 7.54 Stability: 1, 25, 45 C, Cycle(-5, 40 C) for 3 months. 21
22
23 NEW TRENDS
24 NEW TRENDS We have prepared three guide formulations following recent trends from the market: new habits in our day to day cleansing/ caring ritual (Face Mask), innovative product format (fragrance stick) and eco-friendly cleanser (Powder facial wash). FMABP-8-32G FACIAL MASK SHEET A moisturizing facial mask sheet using Ajidew NL-50. The Emollient and Humectant ingredients are derived from amino acids, they provide super moisture feeling without greasiness Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier A WATER Balance CARBOMER 0.50 Thickener Carbopol 980 Polymer / Lubrizol B BUTYLENE GLYCOL 0.50 Humectant PROPANEDIOL 0.50 Humectant XANTHAN GUM 0.05 Thickener Keltrol CG-SFT / CP Kelco C Eldew PS-203R 0.50 Emollient-Quasiintercellular lipid AJINOMOTO CO. INC. PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 3.00 Solubilizer EMALEX HC-40 / NIHON Emulsion BUTYLENE GLYCOL 2.00 Humectant D WATER E Ajidew NL Skin natural moisturizer AJINOMOTO CO. INC. SODIUM HYALURONATE (1% Soln.) 0.50 Sensory improver Hyaluronic acid FCH-201P / Kikkoman biochemifa F WATER L-Arginine C-Grade 0.76 ph adjuster AJINOMOTO CO. INC. DISODIUM EDTA 0.05 Stabilizer Dissolvine S-NA2-S / Akzo Nobel G PRESERVATIVE q.s. FRAGRANCE q.s. 24 PROCEDURE: 1. Make a homogeneous dispersion of part A using disperse mixer. 2. Mix the part B at room temperature. 3. Add part B to part A while stirring at 85 C until be a homogeneous liquid. 4. Mix the part C at 85 C. 5. Add part C to part D slowly with stirring at 85 C to make solubilized liquid. 6. Add part C to part A with gentle stirring at 85 C until white liquid obtained. 7. Cool down to 45 C while stirring then add part E. 8. Add the part F to main part while stirring to neutralize. 9. Add part G to main part while stirring. 10. Cool down to room temperature. TECHNICAL INFORMATION: Appearance: Translucent low viscous liquid ph: 6.0 (Direct measurment) Viscosity: 600-1,200 mpa.s (B-type, rotor N o.3, 30 r.p.m., 30 sec., 25 C) Stability: -5, 5, 25, 40, 45, 50 C, Cycle(5-45 C)/1month
25 ASC AMINO BLOSSOM FRAGRANCE This transparent solid fragrance not only has an enticing cherry blossom scent but also a unique appearance. A hard clear gel is produced by using a pair of low molecular weight amino acid-derived gelling agents that combine to form a stable network in the chosen oils. The resulting clear solid gel traps the fragrance and releases it upon contact with the skin. Eldew SL-205 is a light amino emollient ester that contributes to glide on the skin while Eldew PS-203 acts as a stability enhancing agent and effective ceramide-like emollient. Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier A GELATINIZATION AGENT GP Pre-gel Mixture. Stick Strength and structure AJINOMOTO CO. INC. GELATINIZATION AGENT EB AJINOMOTO CO. INC. Octyldodecanol Risonol 20SP / Kokyu Alcohol B Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 5.00 High Viscosity Oil Panalane H300E / Lipo Chemicals Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 9.00 Low Viscosity Oil Panalane L14E / Lipo Chemicals Eldew SL Light Ester, Moisturization AJINOMOTO CO. INC. Diisostearyl Malate 9.00 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate High MW ester, Stability, Moisturization Light Emollient, Clarity improvement, Moisturization Schercemol DISM Ester / Lipo Chemicals Liponate NEB / Lipo Chemicals C Isostearyl Isosterate Schercemol 1818 Ester / Lubrizol Eldew PS-203R 7.00 Stabilizing Agent, Emollient, Moisturizer AJINOMOTO CO. INC. Fragrance Fragrance Cherry Blossom Fragrance / Firminech Clementine Essential Oil 2.00 Fragrance Clementine CO2 Essential Oil PROCEDURE: Heat Phase A to 95 C, mix until dissolved, then add to the heated to 95 C Phase B, mix thoroughly while maintaining temperature. Upon cooling to 85 C, slowly add mixed Phase C. Maintain temperature at 85 C and pour into molds, then let cool to room temperature. TECHNICAL INFORMATION: Appearance: Clear gel stick Solidification point: ~75 C. 25
26 PWT-310 POWDER FACIAL WASH Facial wash in powder format using mild surfactants Amisoft LS-11 and MS-11. Product has to be emulsified in the hands and then applied on the face for mild cleansing. Amihope LL imparts soft sensory feeling. Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier Amisoft LS-11 15,0 Cleansing surfactant AJINOMOTO CO. INC. Amisoft MS-11 15,0 Cleansing surfactant AJINOMOTO CO. INC. MANNITOL 10,0 Humectant MARINE CRYSTAL / MARINE CRYSTAL TALC 20,0 Dispersing agent MICROACE P-3 / NIPPON TALC ZEA MAYS (CORN) STRACH 23,5 Vehicle ST STARCH C(W) / NIPPON STARCH CHEMICALS GLUCOSE 15,0 Vehicle Amihope LL 1,0 Sensory improvement AJINOMOTO CO. INC. AGAR 0,5 Foam stabilizer PROCEDURE: Mix all ingredients and mill. TECHNICAL INFORMATION: ph: 5.5 (1% aq.) 26
27 FORMULATION FINDER Product category Product Formulation ref Application Page Amilite GCK-12H ACAC-DMS-18 Foaming make-up remover 21 Amisoft ECS-22W ACAC-SH Pearl silicone free hair Shampoo 7 ANIONIC SURFACTANT Amisoft CS-22 CSAN-220CP SP-01-CS Transparent hair shampoo Facial Cleanser pump Amisoft HS-11P CRP-3 Moisturizing cream 11 Amisoft LS-11 PWT-310 Powder facial wash 26 AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANT Amisoft MS-11 Amisafe AL-01 CSAN-220CP Transparent hair shampoo 17 PWT-310 Powder facial wash 26 ASC Amino conditioner 8 CSAN-220CP Transparent hair shampoo 17 CATIONIC SURFACTANT CAE ASC Amino conditioner 8 CSAN-220CP Transparent hair shampoo 17 Ajidew NL-50 SP-01-CS Facial Cleanser pump 20 FMABP-8-32G Facial Mask Sheet 24 HUMECTANT Prodew 500 Prodew 600 ACAC-SH Pearl silicone free hair Shampoo ASC Amino conditioner 8 NST-2 Skin Toner 10 CRP-3 Moisturizing cream
28 Product category Product Formulation ref Application Page ACAC-SH Pearl silicone free hair Shampoo 7 EMOLLIENT Eldew PS-203R ASC Amino conditioner 8 FMABP-8-32G Facial Mask Sheet 24 ASC Eldew SL-205 ASC Amino Blossom Fragrance Amino Blossom Fragrance FUNCTIONAL POWDER Amihope LL PWT-310 Powder facial wash 26 GELATINIZATION AGENTS GP-1 ASC Amino Blossom Fragrance 25 EB-21 ASC Amino Blossom Fragrance 25 Note: The information is provided based upon our technical data and present knowledge. However, we make no warranties, expressed or implied, and assume no liabilities in connection with any use of the information with respect to specific property, safety and suitability for a specific application. It is also not guaranteed that use of the information does not fall within the scope of any intellectual property rights. 28
29 CONTACT S.A. Ajinomoto OmniChem N.V. Axis Parc Rue Emile Francqui, Mont-Saint-Guibert, Belgium TEL:32 (0) ASD-sales-SC@aoc.ajinomoto.com URL: 29
30 30 NOTES
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