SPINCONTROL GROUP & SPINCONTROL ASIA

Transcription

1 SPINCONTROL GROUP & SPINCONTROL ASIA THE DEVELOPMENT OF SPINCONTROL GROUP (1) 1991 Creation of SPINCONTROL in France by Mr. Patrick BEAU (Ph.D.) Use of NMR (Tours, France) 1

2 THE DEVELOPMENT OF SPINCONTROL GROUP (2) 2003 Creation of SPINCONTROL ASIA JV SPINCONTROL - CHEMICO INTER CORPORATION (Bangkok, Thailand) Objective: because of the differences between Asian and Caucasian skin, to be able to test cosmetic products in Asian subjects THE DEVELOPMENT OF SPINCONTROL GROUP (3) 2008 Opening of SPINCONTROL NORTH AMERICA (Montreal, Canada) Objectives: to be able to test cosmetics dedicated to extreme weather conditions (temperature range in Canada: from -30 C to +30 C), to be present in the North American market 2

3 THE DEVELOPMENT OF SPINCONTROL GROUP (4) 2011 Creation of MASCOT SPINCONTROL INDIA JV MASCOT UNIVERSAL SPINCONTROL (Mumbai, India) Objective: because of the ethnic differences between Asian and Indian skin, to be able to test cosmetic products in Indian subjects THE DEVELOPMENT OF OUR SERVICES (5) 2012 Creation of Emospin Objective: to explore the influence of cosmetics on the emotions and well-being of consumers 3

4 RECENT DEVELOPMENT OF OUR SERVICES (6) 2013 Opening of IDEASUN ASIA in Bangkok IDEA CHEMICO - SPINCONTROL Objective: to expand the range of services by providing sunscreens testing in Thailand A Contract Research Organization: Assisting the manufacturer of active ingredients and finished cosmetic products to demonstrate the claims of their products OUR CLIENTS: Finished cosmetic products (from small local companies to worldwide leaders) Active ingredients Oral (food) supplements Biomedical devices Others (diapers, wipes, mosquito repellents ) 4

5 OURSUBJECTPANEL: Wide range of: - Age (18-65 years old) - Skin type (dry, oily, normal, combination) - skin color(fitzpatrick phototypes II to IV) - Skin problems (acne, melasma, darkspots) - Experience in using cosmetics - Sensitive skin OUR TESTS CLINICAL STUDIES (Dermatologist, Ophthalmologist, Dentist) INSTRUMENTAL STUDIES - BIOMETROLOGY (Corneometry, Chromametry, TEWL, Cutometry, Photography, Glossymetry, ph ) SENSORY METROLOGY (Grading, C.L.B.T. By trained judges) IN USE TESTS - CONSUMER TESTS SELF-ASSESSMENT (Questionnaires) 5

6 EFFICACY AND TOLERANCE TESTS IN SPINCONTROL ASIA 6

7 Whitening effect Using chromametry Measurement of skin color/ dark spot and analysis of parameters such as L*, ITA and Delta E Whitening effect Using digital Photography VISIO FACE system 7

8 Whitening effect Analysis of digital photographs Analysis of the following parameters : Number of spots Colour of spots Colour of adjacent normal skin Sharpness of the spots contours Total area of the spots (mm²) Whitening effect Using Mexametry (Melanin & Erythema) 8

9 Product efficacy on dark circle Digital photography with image Analysis C.L.B.T. Method by 3 trained judges 9

10 Whitening effect of the armpit area Using chromameter (measurement) Using digital photography (illustration) MOISTURIZATION Using CORNEOMETRY 10

11 MOISTURIZATION Uisng VapoMeter To determine vaporation rate (Trans Epidermal Water Loss) Illustration of a relative humidity versus time profile carried out inside a closed cylindrical chamber of the VapoMeter Wireless SWL4 (Delfin technologies, Finland),shortly after placing the device on the skin. MOISTURIZATION Using D Squames Digital processing of images of D Squames 11

12 SKIN ph measurement using Skin ph meter WRINKLES EVALUATION REPLICAS ANALYSIS: Images of silicon rubber (replicas) imprints of the wrinkles Number of wrinkles; Depth; Length 12

13 WRINKLES EVALUATION FRINGE PROJECTION TOPOMETRY: 3D pictures to analysis of wrinkle by parameter SPa, SPt and SPq SKIN PROPERTIES CUTOMETRY: skin elasticity measurement by creation of negative pressure on the skin s surface and on the measurement of vertical movement on the induced skin Example of skin surface deformation observed during a cycle of suction-relaxation 13

14 Visual improvement of skin features using clinical scoring Clinical scoring By 1 or 3 trained judges Use of a photographic scale, tactile evaluation or nonstrutured scale 14

15 Evaluation of wrinkles related features Forehead wrinkles Glabellar lines Crow s feet wrinkles Nasolabial fold Marionette lines Upper lip wrinkles Forehead fine lines or wrinkles Nasolabial fold Underneath eye wrinkles Crow s feet wrinkles Glabellar wrinkles Upper lip wrinkles Evaluation of sagging related features (visual evaluation) Eye bags Hollow cheeks Face contour sagging Ptosis of the lower part of the face Eye bags Horizontal neck fold Neck sagging Drooping of the upper outer eyelid 15

16 Evaluation of mechanical propertiesrelated features (tactile evaluation) Clinical evaluation by one expert: Firmness Elasticity Tonicity Laxity Suppleness Evaluation of pigmentation related features Mottled pigmentation Age spots Density of pigmentary spots Localized pigmentary spots on the cheek Contrast of isolated pigmentary spot (females) Size of an isolated spot (females) 16

17 Evaluation of other features Sebaceous pores Ocular pigmentation Cheek sebaceous pores Ocular area pigmentation (females) Evaluation of other features Dark spots color density Skin roughness Skin smoothness Skin clarity Uniformity of skin complexion Evenness of skin tone Skin dryness, scaling Skin shine (greasiness) Etc. Share your expectations with us and we can provide some suggestions 17

18 ACNE / OILY SKIN 1. Dermatological evaluation by counting Of number of acne lesion >> non-inflammatory >> inflammatory 2. Digital photography for illustration of skin s improvement 18

19 Exceed sebum measurement using Sebumetry Sebum secretion measurement using Sebutape analaysis 19

20 Skin shine (oiliness): analysis of digital photography Parallel polarized photograph Cross-polarized photograph EVALUATION OF SKIN PORE 1. Replica with Fringe Project Analysis 2. Expert grading of skin pore 20

21 Astringent effect Using image analysis Detection of the pores Measured parameters : Number of visible pores Total area of the pores Average diameter of the pores Efficacy of mascara products Using image analysis Possible evaluations: Lenghtening effect Curling effect Before mascara application Volumising effect Separating effect After mascara application 21

22 Efficacy of lipstick products Using expert grading Evaluation of the long lasting effect of lipstick products Complexion homogeneity of foundations Using image analysis Extraction of a parameter which characterizes homogeneity. Before After An increase of this parameter corresponds to an improvement in the facial skin homogeneity/ foundation covering effect. 22

23 SELF-ASSESSMENT by Questionnaire SELF-ASSESSMENT by Questionnaire 1) Free answers for the tested product (positive and negative points) 2) Efficacy of the product 3) Overall satisfaction about the product 4) Cosmetic acceptability: (undesirable effects felt during the study) 23

24 SAFETY TEST OCULAR ACCEPTABILITY Ophthalmological evaluation Conjunctiva: 0: No redness +1: Hyperemic blood vessel in some areas +2: Diffuse hyperemia (conjunctival injection) +3: Hyperemia around limbus (ciliary injection) Cornea: 0: Clear +1: Discernible area that suspected corneal abrasion +2: Some areas of infiltration or opacity +3: Total areas of infiltration or opacity 24

25 SKIN COMPATIBILITY Dermatological evaluation CLINICAL ASSESSMENT - The dermatologist examines the skin on the product application area and notes all the possible evolving elements and sometimes other nonevolving elements (erythema, edema, dryness, scaling, comedone, etc.) which enable him/her to describe the characteristics of the studied panel with specifies their intensity, their location FUNCTIONAL ASSESSMENT - The dermatologist asks the subject about what she feels on the future area of the product application (tightening, tingling, burning, itching ) with specifies their intensity, their location Safety test by Single patch test Dates T0 T+24 hours T+48 hours Single patch test Dermatological evaluation End of study 25

26 Dermatological evaluation * Erythema No redness = 0 Weak redness = +1 Moderate redness= +2 Strong redness= +3 Very strong redness = +4 * Oedema No oedema = 0 Weak oedema = +1 Moderate oedema= +2 Strong oedema= +3 Very strong oedema= +4 * Scaling No scaling = 0 Weak scaling = +1 Moderate scaling= +2 Strong scaling = +3 Very strong scaling= +4 26

27 CONCLUSION Using ophthalmological evaluation : The tested PRODUCT X has been well tolerated by the subjects after at least once application for a 4-week period since no unwanted reaction was observed by the ophthalmologist. Using dermatological evaluation : The tested PRODUCT X has been well tolerated by the subjects after at least once application for a 4-week period since no unwanted reaction was observed by the dermatologist. Using single patch test: The tested PRODUCT A, B, C, D when used on human skin under occlusion during 24 hours and 48 hours, were proven to be non-irritating. NEW!!! Illustrations using VISIA imaging system 27

28 UV Photography THE WAY WE WORK IN SPINCONTROL ASIA 28

29 HOW TO DESIGN A PROPER STUDY? ADEQUACY claim of the product / evaluation method NUMBER OF SUBJECTS (guidelines, statistical considerations) MEASURED SITES (treated vs control, active vs placebo ) KINETICS (number of evaluation times) INCLUSION / EXCLUSION CRITERIA for the recruitment of the test subjects MODALITIES OF TEST PRODUCT UTILIZATION (including proscriptions and restrictions) PRACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS (calibration, influence of external factors, influence of the posture on the outcome of some measurements, interference of product residues, hairs ) TIME SCHEDULE (deadline for sending results/report) Client satisfaction questionnaire THE STUDY PROCESS Study request, feasibility meeting, study order Writing of the report Study design, writing of the protocol Data analysis Recruitment of the subjects Realization of the test (measurements, evaluations) 29

30 OUR «PRODUCT» OTHER SUPPORT PROVIDED BY SPINCONTROL ASIA 30

31 NOT ONLY OUR «PRODUCT», OUR SERVICE OUR WORK ONLY ENDS WHEN OUR CLIENT DOES NOT NEED OUR ASSISTANCE ANYMORE We are thinking in terms of PROJECT Normally sending the study report is the last step of our job But it happens frequently that our clients need further assistance for the exploitation of our data OUR SUPPORT Iconography (advertisings, leaflets, packaging) 31

32 OUR SUPPORT Participation to product launch, media presentation TV shows, TV advertisings OUR SUPPORT Scientific communication (articles, oral and poster presentations in congress) 32

33 THANK YOU! 33