Hairstylist. HAIR 105 Chemical Waving

Transcription

1 Hairstylist HAIR 105 Chemical Waving

2 Copyright Saskatchewan Polytechnic No part of the work(s) contained herein may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means - graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping of information and retrieval systems - without written consent of Saskatchewan Polytechnic. Unless otherwise stated, all images contained within are copyright of Saskatchewan Polytechnic. Used With Permission Reference Used Under Fair Dealing Reference This material was copied for a fair dealing purpose. Any further distribution must follow Saskatchewan Polytechnic fair dealing guidelines. i

3 HAIR 105 Chemical Waving Course Overview Course Description Learning Outcome(s) Course Hours Prerequisite(s) Assessment of Learning Outcome(s) You will study and practice all aspects of chemically treating the hair either through permanent waving or chemically relaxing. 1. Describe Principles of Permanent Waving 2. Consult with the Client to Determine Chemical Waving Outcomes 3. Wrap Hair for a Basic Conventional Wave 4. Wrap Hair for Specialized Permanent Wave Wraps 5. Perform a Permanent Texturing Service 6. Perform a Chemical Relaxing Service 45 hours Before beginning this course, you must have completed the following course(s): SANT 108 Sanitation, Safety, and Hygiene for Hairstylist HAIR 100 Foundations of Hairstyling HAIR 101 Shampoos and Treatments Knowledge Assessment Your knowledge of chemical waving and chemical relaxing will be tested at the end of the course. written exam worth 40% of the grade assignments are worth 10% of final grade Performance Assessment Your practical skills will be assessed by means of the following performance test(s): Perform a Basic Permanent Wave Wrap on a Mannequin 10% of grade Perform a Basic Permanent Wave on a Client 40% of grade Passing Grade 50% - Grade Point Average 60% Resource(s) to Purchase Saskatchewan Polytechnic. (2017). HAIR 105 Chemical Waving [Course Manual]. SK, Canada: Author. Cengage Learning. (2016). Milady standard cosmetology. Clifton Park, New York: Author. ii

4 Cengage Learning. (2016). Milady standard cosmetology: Practical workbook. Clifton Park, New York: Author. Cengage Learning. (2016). Milady standard cosmetology: Theory workbook. Clifton Park, New York: Author. Other Resource(s) Milady Publishing Company. (2012). Milady standard DVD series [DVD]. Clifton Park, NY: Cengage Learning. iii

5 Customer Service Scoring Rubric Note: Customer service skills are essential to your success in any beauty culture occupation. The skill level described in the rubric below will be assessed as part of every performance test, unless otherwise noted. Safety Professional Presentation Communication With Co- Workers Communication with Customers Build a Clientele 3 - Excellent 2 - Average 1 - Poor Meets safety requirements and standards and encourages or reminds others to do so. Dresses neatly and in the dress recommended by supervisor. Wears hairstyles and makeup that enhance the goals of a beauty culture service provider. Displays a pleasant and cheerful demeanour. Always presents self in manner which promotes product sales and endorsement. Honest, respectful work relationship with peers and supervisors. Recognizes that cooperative relationships serve to improve the overall business environment and profitability. Is always attentive to the customer and his/her concerns. Provides clear and relevant information intended to communicate to the customer the stylist's actions. Asks pertinent questions in order to clarify and confirm customer's service request. Most customers return for repeat/alternate services. Asks customers to refer friends. Asks advice of other stylists. Relates well to all age groups and cultural backgrounds. Pursues professional associations and/or activities. Participates in promotional activities for the shop. Usually works safely, but requires frequent reminders. Needs occasional reminders to dress neatly or to shop standards. Frequently neglects to style hair. Does not consistently present self in a manner which promotes product sales and endorsement. Does not consistently present a cheerful attitude. Experiences some difficulty working with peers and supervisors in some situations. Shows some acknowledgement that cooperative relationships serve to improve the overall business environment and profitability. Is occasionally inattentive to the customer or interacts with others more than with the current customer. Sometimes asks questions which are irrelevant to the service, or poses unclear questions which do not allow the customer to clarify the desired service. Has a few repeat customers. Does not ask customers for referrals. Is reluctant to ask advice from peers or supervisors. Has difficulty relating to some customers due to age difference or different cultural backgrounds. Is careless and may be a hazard to others. Sloppy and disorganized; does not dress or work professionally. Often appears moody or uncommunicative. Rarely presents self in manner which promotes product sales and endorsement. Resentful of supervision and/or peers. Shows little or no respect for others. Shows little recognition that cooperative relationships serve to improve the overall business environment and profitability. Exhibits little or no interest in what the customer has to say or ask. Provides little or no information. Rarely asks questions. Rarely promotes products. Has few repeat customers. Shows little interest or effort to keep or expand client base. Has difficulty relating to those of other cultural backgrounds and ages. 15/15 = 100% 14/15 = 93% 13/15 = 87% 12/15 = 80% 11/15 = 73% 10/15 = 67% 9/15 = 60% 7.5/15 = 50% iv

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7 Table of Contents Learning Outcome 1: Describe Principles of Permanent Waving Learning Step 1: Describe Considerations, Actions, and Methods of Permanent Waving...1 Learning Step 2: Describe Actions and Methods of Permanent Wave Treatment...7 Answer Key(s)...29 Learning Outcome 2: Consult With the Client to Determine Chemical Waving Outcomes Learning Step 1: Analyze the Scalp and Hair for Permanent...34 Learning Step 2: Describe Various Chemical Wave Solutions and Their Actions...39 Answer Key(s)...50 Learning Outcome 3: Wrap Hair for a Basic Conventional Wave Learning Step 1: Wrap Hair for a Basic Conventional Wave...54 Learning Step 2: Section and Wrap for a Basic Conventional Permanent Wave...54 Learning Outcome 4: Wrap Hair for Specialized Permanent Wave Wraps Learning Step 1: Specialized Permanent Wave Wraps...57 Learning Step 2: Perform Specialized Permanent Wave Wraps...57 Learning Outcome 5: Apply a Permanent Wave Treatment Learning Step 1: Prepare for a Permanent Wave Treatment...59 Learning Step 2: Perform a Permanent Wave Treatment...72 Answer Key(s)...77 Learning Outcome 6: Chemically Relax Hair Learning Step 1: Describe Chemical Hair Relaxing Process and Procedures...81 Learning Step 2: Perform Chemical Hair Relaxing...83 Performance Test 1: Perform a Basic Permanent Wave Wrap on a Mannequin...94 Performance Test 2: Perform a Basic Permanent Wave (Full Head Basic Wrap) on a Client 96 Answer Key(s) vi

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9 Learning Outcome 1 Describe Principles of Permanent Waving Learning Step 1 Describe Considerations, Actions, and Methods of Permanent Waving 1.1 Glossary Glossary of New Key Words acid - chemical having a ph value of 1.0 to 6.0 alkaline - chemical having a ph value of 8.0 to 14.0 amino acid - organic building blocks of the protein molecule blocking - subdividing the sections into uniform rectangular partings to insure an even curl by using the diameter of the rod as a guide. Blocking may also be referred to as subsectioning. cone-shaped curl - loose at the scalp and tighter at the hair ends cylinder-shaped curl - wave or curl equal in size from the scalp to the hair ends cystine bond - amino acid formed protein which produces cross bonds in the hair end paper (end wrap) - porous paper used on ends of hair to control hair ends fishhook - crimped frizzy hair end that can only be removed by cutting grace period - period of time that elapses after the permanent wave has reached its peak and before the hair starts to over process hair shaft - portion of the hair from the scalp outward; portion of the hair that can be seen imbrication - overlapping cuticle layer on the outer hair shaft keratin - a protein found in hair and nails neutralize - to stop or fix the action of the permanent wave solution oxidize - process of combining oxygen with another substance and removing hydrogen COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 1

10 process - time required for the permanent wave solution to soften the cuticle and penetrate the hair shaft to release the bonds which make up the hair structure sectioning - dividing hair into uniform section by using the length of the permanent wave rod as a guide. This allows for proper and even wrapping of a permanent wave thioglycolic acid - main chemical ingredient found in permanent wave solutions wrap - process of placing the end paper on the strand of hair and rolling the hair on a permanent wave rod 1.2 Reading Assignment Study in chemical texture services the Introduction and How Chemical Products Work From the textbook, Milady Standard Cosmetology, study the chapter Chemical Texture Services up to the section on Chemical Hair Relaxers. 1.3 Instruction Sheet Considerations for Permanent Waving Structure of the Hair The structure of the hair is arranged in three layers. These layers are the cuticle, cortex, and medulla. The cuticle is the outer protective layer of hair which contains one or more layers. The cuticle imbrications influence the diameter of the hair shaft. The cortex is the largest layer of hair which contains colouring pigment or melanin. It is located in the center of hair shaft. The medulla is the innermost layer of hair. The medulla contains soft keratin and may influence diameter of hair shaft. It is important to note that some types of hair do not contain a medulla. A chemical bond is a protein type bond which is broken and reformed chemically during permanent waving and temporarily during the wet setting process. Chemical bonds attract hair proteins to each other and give the hair the ability to be permanently waved. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 2

11 Figure 1 Chemical Agents Used in Permanent Waving Products To permanent wave the hair, you will use permanent wave solutions, and neutralizers. A permanent wave solution is also called a wave lotion or a cold wave solution. All permanent wave solutions break the bonds in the cortex. Alkaline/cold waves have a ph between 9 and 9.6. The active ingredient is ammonium thioglycolate (ATG). Alkaline /cold waves works great on strong, coarse, resistant hair. They process at room temperature and create the firmest curl. The curl is referred to a close ended curl. Exothermic waves have a ph between 9.0 and 9.6. The active ingredient is ammonium thioglycolate (ATG). They are also used to create strong curls on coarse, strong, thick, resistant hair. The activator and permanent wave solution are mixed together (just before saturated the wrapped perm) resulting in a chemical reaction that produces heat. This heat is required for processing. The curl created by the exothermic wave is similar to the alkaline wave. They also produce a tight curl. True acid waves have a ph between The active ingredient is glycerl monothioglycolate (GMTG). They are endothermic waves. True acid waves require an external heat source. True acid waves are processed under a hot hooded dryer. They cannot be used on clients with high blood pressure or heart conditions due to the hot dryer heat which clients with these medical conditions cannot be exposed to safely. The curl produced is looser and softer. They do not produce a successful curl on strong, coarse resistant hair. True acid waves are best suited for use on finer, extremely porous or very damaged hair. True acid perms are the gentlest permanent waves. Acid balanced waves, have a ph between 7, 8 and 8.2. The active ingredient is glycerl monothioglycolate (GMTG). Acid balanced waves are often referred to a modern acid waves. They process at room temperature. Acid balanced waves produce a much firmer curl COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 3

12 then true acid waves, but a much softer curl then alkaline or exothermic waves. Acid balanced wave produce great results on porous and damaged hair. They can be used on normal, med-fine hair when a softer curl is desired. Low ph waves have a ph between 6.5 and 7. The active ingredient is ammonium sulfite or ammonium bisulfite. The low ph waves are best suited for normal, fine, or damaged hair. When soft movement is desired. They produce a very weak curl and are marketed as body waves, support, or alternative waves. Ammonia free waves have a ph from 7.0 to 9.6. The active ingredient is monoethanolmine MEA) or aminomethylpropanol (AMP). Depending on the ph and concentration of the active ingredient they can be used on porous to normal hair. The higher the ph and active ingredient the firmer the curl. Ammonia free waves process at room temperature. Thio free waves have a ph from 7.0 to 9.6. The active ingredient is mercaptamine/cysteamine. They can be used on porous to normal hair depending on the ph (alkalinity) and the concentration of the active ingredient. Note: Because a permanent wave solution is ammonia or thio free does not mean it is less damaging or more damaging to the hair. The higher the alkalinity and concentration of the active ingredient the stronger the solution than has the potential to be more damaging if not used for the proper resistance, strength, porousity, and texture of hair. Too mild a permanent wave solution will not give good results or lasting curl on strong resistant coarse hair. Too strong a permanent wave solution will cause damage, frizzyness and possible hair breakage when used on hair that is fragile, porous, and damaged. *N.B. The perm solution must be selected based on the analysis the condition and type of hair first, keeping in mind the end curl results desired. After the hair has processed, the permanent wave solution is rinsed from the hair and a neutralizer is applied. There are three types of neutralizing solutions - instant, splash, and selfneutralizing. instant - neutralizer is a premixed, creamy formula used directly from the container or poured into an applicator bottle splash - neutralizer is poured over the rods using a small sponge and a basin placed in the sink self-neutralizing - neutralizer is used on hair that is allowed to dry naturally after the rods are removed. This method takes longer to neutralize because oxygen and water neutralize the hair naturally. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 4

13 Actions Performed by Permanent Wave Solution and Neutralizer on the Hair permanent wave solution - causes the hair to soften and swell or expand which releases the chemical bonds in the cuticle layer and allows the hair to take the shape of the curling rod neutralizer - causes the hair to harden and shrink which reforms the chemical bonds, locks hair in its new form, and stops the permanent wave action Note: Neutralizer is a fixative which contains either sodium bromate or two percent hydrogen peroxide which oxidizes the permanent wave solution. Strengths of Permanent Wave Solutions and the Hair Conditions for Which They are Used When performing a permanent wave, different strengths of solutions may be used depending on the client's hair. A mild solution is used for damaged, porous, or tinted hair. A mild solution may also be referred to as weak solution. An average solution is used for normal, healthy hair. Use strong solutions for resistant hair having very little porosity. An extra mild solution is applied to lightened, overlightened, and some types of tinted hair. Factors That May Affect Permanent Wave Processing climate medication room drafts and air conditioning body heat lotion of improper strength condition of client's hair working speed of cosmetologist failure to follow manufacturer's directions improper saturation of rods COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 5

14 Overprocessing and Underprocessing of Hair During Permanent Wave Overprocessed hair appears dull, frizzy, and dry. The hair lacks elasticity and will appear curly when wet, and straight when dry and does not hold a set. The hair becomes overprocessed if the solution has been left on the hair too long during the processing step or the neutralizer has been improperly applied. Reconditioning and hair cutting are recommended as treatment for overprocessed hair. Caution! Avoid applying more permanent wave solution to overprocessed hair as breakage may occur. Underprocessed hair (wet or dry) appears weak and limp with little or no curl and the hair will not hold the set. The hair may be re-permed using a milder solution than the first one applied. Hair Analysis Considerations for Perming Hair Density and Texture Density - amount of hair per square centimeter (square inch) on the scalp Example: Very dense, medium-textured hair is sometimes mistaken for coarse hair. Textured - degree of coarseness of fineness of the individual hair strand Note: Texture is very important when determining the processing time for a permanent wave. Example: Fine-textured hair having a small diameter allows the waving solution to penetrate more rapidly than coarse hair having a large diameter. Elasticity and Porosity Elasticity - ability of the hair to stretch and return to its normal length. All hair has elasticity, but the elasticity changes from time to time. Hair having poor elasticity will not develop a firm curl. Porous hair will lose its elasticity faster than nonporous hair. Porosity - ability of the hair to absorb a solution. The degree of porosity is determined by how close the cuticle layers lie together on the hair shaft. Porosity and texture are the most important factors to consider when determining the strength of permanent wave solution to be used. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 6

15 Methods of Determining Hair Porosity 1. Ruffling - The more ruffles that are formed on the strand, the more porous the hair is. Figure 2 2. Cutting Dry Hair With Scissors - If the scissors cut through the hair easily, it is porous. 3. Cupping the Hair - After the hair is squeezed and released, if it shows little or no spring the hair is porous. 4. Wetting the Hair - If the hair absorbs the moisture or wets easily, it is porous. 5. Drying the Hair - If the hair takes long to dry, it may be porous. Learning Step 2 Describe Actions and Methods of Permanent Wave Treatment 2.1 Instruction Sheet Methods of Permanent Waving Types of Permanent Wave Wraps and Their Characteristics Porous end papers must be used when permanent waving the hair to protect the porous hair ends and alleviate fishhook ends. There are three methods of applying end wraps: 1. Book - The end paper is folded over the ends. This allows more control when wrapping the strand. Care must be taken when using the book methods to be sure that the folded end does not bind the hair or cause the hair to overlap, preventing a smooth, even curl. 2. Single - For a single wrap, one end paper is placed lengthwise on top of strand on normal hair to save time and to permit the hair to remain smooth without overlapping during wrapping. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 7

16 3. Double - When using a double wrap, one end paper is placed lengthwise on top of strand and one is placed lengthwise under the strand to control varying lengths of hair in the strand. This provides the most protection for the hair and the greatest amount of control when wrapping. Note: Two end papers should be used when hair is extremely porous or damaged. Note: Today the most acceptable and used method of wrapping is the double wrap. Figure 3 Various Types of Permanent Wave Rods and Their Functions Permanent wave rods come in varying sizes and shapes. The size of the rod determines the size of the wave or curl. When selecting rods for a permanent wave, use large rods for coarse hair having good elasticity. Use large or medium rods for medium-textured hair having average elasticity. Use medium or small rods on fine hair having very little elasticity. Large rods are usually recommended for bleached or some types of tinted hair to prevent crimping. 1. Thick rods give body to hair that is 15.2 cm (six inches) long or longer. The hair should wrap around a rod 1 ½ to 2 ½ turns to obtain body. 2. Medium rods give soft, medium curl to average length hair. A softer curl will result when the hair is wrapped 2 ½ to 3 ½ turns around the rod. 3. Thin rods produce tighter curl on short hair. The hair should wrap 3 ¾ turns for a firm curl on thin rods. 4. Long rods are used for upper sections of the head and may be preferred for hair 15.2 cm (6 inches) or longer for easier wrapping. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 8

17 5. Short rods produce firm curls. They are used for shorter hair or a small head size and may be used in the nape area on most size heads 6. Extra short (midget) rods wrap small, fine hairs generally found in the nape area or over the ears for a very firm curl. 7. Concave rods create definite wave patterns close to the head. 8. Straight rods create the same size of curl or wave pattern throughout the hair strand. Figure 4: Various Types of Permanent Wave Rods Safety Precautions to Observe While Giving a Permanent Wave Examine the scalp for abrasions before giving a permanent wave. Make a hair analysis before determining the strength of solution to use. Avoid brushing the hair before giving a permanent wave. Shampoo the hair gently and omit the massage step. Read the manufacturer's directions carefully before each permanent wave. Apply protective cream around the hairline to protect the client from the permanent wave solution. Note: Cotton strips should be removed if they become saturated with permanent wave solution. Apply cold water or sweet milk if the permanent wave solution gets into the client's eyes. Apply cold water or a neutralizer to the skin for permanent wave burns. Change the towel draped around client's neck if it becomes saturated with permanent wave solution. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 9

18 Take pre-permanent test curls if in doubt about the processing time or the strength of the permanent wave solution to use. Neutralize thoroughly. Avoid stretching the hair or placing tension on the hair when wrapping it to prevent retardation of the permanent wave solution. Avoid applying a cream rinse after a permanent wave. Cleanse permanent wave rods thoroughly after the neutralizing step. Note: Neutralizer residue may distort the next permanent wave if it is not thoroughly removed from the rods. Avoid leaving the client alone during processing time. Avoid applying permanent wave solution to hair that has been treated with a metallic dye. Check the processing of the solution carefully to avoid overprocessing or underprocessing the hair. Handle tinted, bleached, or damaged hair carefully. Cover all hair ends with porous end papers to avoid fishhook ends. Note: Fishhook ends usually may be corrected by cutting them off. Wash hands before and after each client. Discard the neutralizer after use unless it is properly sealed. Avoid giving a permanent wave and a tint on the same day. Note: If a permanent wave and a colour must be given on the same day, give the permanent wave first to avoid stripping the colour. Because the colour may grab, caution must be taken when applying colour over a permanent wave. Various Methods for Permanent Waving the Hair The following determine hair porosity: 1. End permanent gives support to hair ends, leaving the hair smooth near the scalp. End permanent waves may also be referred to as stacked or ponytail. 2. Piggy back allows more curl at the scalp and a uniform curl throughout the hair strand on long hair. 3. Pick-up curl adds curl in one or more areas of the head due to the following: loss of curl during cutting naturally curly hair which is unevenly curled throughout the head improper saturation of the hair with solution or neutralizer in one area of the head, causing that area to have less curl improper size of rods used for the length of hair or type of curl desired COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 10

19 4. Transfer hair is rolled and processed on small size rods and placed on larger size rods to neutralize. 5. Custom wave designed for the individual client; special procedures, application, and conditioners are used. Note: Bleached hair should be custom waved. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 11

20 Rules for Developing a Good Permanent Wave Cone-shaped permanent wave curls are made with a concave rod; cylinder-shaped curls are made with a straight rod. The size of the permanent wave rod determines the size of the curl. Hair will not curl smaller than the rod on which it is rolled. A body wave is a strong curl on a large rod, not an underprocessed curl. A tight curl is a strong curl on a small rod. Leaving the permanent wave solution on for longer than necessary will not produce a tighter curl. When using concave rods, the hair ends may be converged slightly; for straight rods, the ends should be spread evenly. A successful permanent wave depends mainly on a good haircut, proper selection of rods and waving lotion, and proper wrapping. Neutralizers can be made mixing L (16 oz.) water, ml (2 oz.) hydrogen peroxide, and ml (2 oz.) shampoo. The length of the base should be determined by the length of the rod and the width of the base should be determined by the thickness of the hair. Normal hair curls easiest at the ends and is more difficult to curl at the scalp. Placing a permanent wave rod on the base produces fullness, height, or width in a permanent wave. When permanent waving the fine hair, the weight of the lotion may cause a fake reading; blotting the excess moisture before taking a test curl will aid in eliminating this problem. Note: Resaturate the curl if it is not properly developed. During the processing step of a permanent wave the hair progresses from straight to shapings, to wide waves, to narrow waves, and finally to curls. When checking a test curl during processing, unwind the rod at least 1 ½ turns and look for a firm letter S, the circumference of the rod which the hair is wound around. One portion of the head may process more quickly and reach a peak where the processing action stops. This peak is called a grace period, which means you may let the hair process so that the slower side can catch up before neutralizing. The grace period is two to three minutes for normal hair, one to two minutes for tinted hair, and zero to one minute for bleached hair. Large and medium rods may be alternated for good curl support. Smaller rods are usually recommended for nape area where the hair is more resistant. Information to be Included on a Permanent Wave Record Card The permanent wave record card serves as a guide for future permanent waves. If the card is correctly filled in, you may relieve yourself of the responsibility for damage or accidents. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 12

21 Be sure to fill in all of the information asked for on the card. (This card is one example customer service Permanent Wave card.) Part A: Permanent Wave Record Name: Address: Phone: Postal Code: Pre-Disposition Test: Negative Positive Part B: Description of Hair Form Length Texture Porosity straight short coarse soft very porous less porous wavy medium medium silky mod. porous least porous curly long fine wiry normal resistant Condition: virgin p.w. rewave dry oily tinted lightened toner Tinted with: Previously tinted with: for (time) original sample of hair enclosed not enclosed Part C: Type of Permanent Wave whole head rewave inches end curls regular cold wave body wave acid balance permanent wave no. of curls lotion strength Results: good poor too tight too loose sample of finish permanent wave sample not enclosed Part D Date Operator Date Operator COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 13

22 Salons may use different customer service cards for each service ie permanent wave record card; colour record chart or they may use one general customer service card for all services. This card is an example of a generic customer service record card. THE NEXT TWO PAGES I WILL SEND TO AILEEN...AND THEY WILL FIX UP. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 14

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26 Steps for Giving a Permanent Wave Although you must always follow the manufacturer's directions when performing a permanent wave service, the steps below are a general outline for the permanent waving process. Drape the client. Analyze the hair and scalp. Determine the type of solution and proper size of rods to use. Fill out the portion of record card. Shampoo the hair. Cut the hair (optional). Section the hair. Block and wrap the hair. Apply protective cream and a cotton strip. Saturate the hair with a permanent wave solution. Process the permanent wave. Rinse the hair. Blot each rod. Neutralize the entire head. Unwind and remove the rods and end papers. Rinse the hair thoroughly. Towel dry. Style the hair as desired. Complete the record card. Clean the work area and sanitize the implements. Note: Make sure the permanent wave rods are rinsed thoroughly to avoid distorting the next wave. Discard used end papers. 2.2 Review Assignment From the textbook, Milady Standard Cosmetology: Theory Workbook, complete the review exercise questions on Chemical Texture Services. Your answers will marked and discussed in class. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 18

27 2.3 Review Exercise Match the terms on the right to their correct definitions. Column A 1. Time required for the permanent wave solution to soften the cuticle and penetrate the hair shaft to release the bonds which make up the hair structure. 2. Main chemical ingredient found in permanent wave solution. 3. Organic building blocks of the protein module. 4. Amino acid formed protein which produces cross bond in the hair. 5. To stop or fix the action of the permanent wave solution. 6. Chemical having a ph value of 8.0 to Chemical having a ph value of 1.0 to Process of placing the end paper on the strand of hair and rolling hair on permanent wave rod. 9. Overlapping cuticle layer on the outer hair shaft. 10. Process of combining oxygen with another substance removing hydrogen. 11. Porous paper used on ends of hair to control hair ends. 12. Crimped frizzy hair end that can only be removed by cutting. 13. Portion of the hair from the scalp outward; portion of the hair that can be seen. 14. Period of time that elapses after permanent wave has reached its peak and before hair starts to overprocess. 15. Loose at scalp and tight at hair ends. 16. Wave or curl equal in size from scalp to hair ends. Column B a) alkaline b) amino acid c) acid d) process e) neutralize f) thioglycolic acid g) cystine bond h) wrap i) oxidize j) end paper (end wrap) k) imbrication l) hair shaft m) fishhook end n) cone-shaped curl o) keratin p) cylinder-shaped curl q) grace period r) splash neutralizer 17. Distinguish between hair density and texture by writing the correct terms in the blanks provided. a) Degree of coarseness or fineness of the individual hair strand. b) Amount of hair per square centimeter (square inch) on the scalp. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 19

28 18. Identify the parts of the hair structure illustrated below. Figure 5 Match the parts of the hair structure on the right to their correct characteristics. Column A 19. Outer protective layer of hair which contains one or more layers. 20. Largest layer of hair which contains colouring pigment or melanin and is located in the centre of hair shaft. 21. Innermost layer which contains soft keratin and may influence diameter of hair shaft. 22. Protein type bond which is broken and reformed chemically during permanent waving and temporarily during the wet setting process. Column B a) medulla b) chemical bond c) cuticle d) cortex 23. List six types of products used in permanent waving. 24. Discuss in writing the following chemical agents that are used in permanent waving products. a) alkaline permanent wave solution COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 20

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30 b) acid permanent wave solution c) ester permanent wave solution d) instant neutralizer e) splash neutralizer f) self-neutralizing neutralizer 25. Describe the actions that take place in the hair when permanent wave and neutralizer solutions are applied. a) When permanent wave solution is applied b) When neutralizer solution is applied COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 22

31 Match the permanent wave solution strength on the right to the correct hair condition for which it is used. Column A Column B 26. For damaged, porous, or tinted hair. a) strong 27. For normal, healthy hair. 28. For resistant hair having very little porosity. 29. For lightened, overlightened, and some types of tinted hair. b) mild c) extra mild d) average 30. Identify the types of wave wraps below by writing the correct names in the blanks provided. Match the permanent wave wraps on the left to the correct characteristics. Column A 31. End paper is folded over ends, which allows more control when wrapping the strand. 32. One end paper is placed lengthwise on top of strand on normal hair to save time and to permit the hair to remain smooth without overlapping during wrapping. 33. One end paper is placed lengthwise on top of strand and one is placed lengthwise under strand to control varying lengths of hair in strand. Column B a) double b) single c) book COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 23

32 Match the types of permanent wave rods on the left to the correct functions. Column A 34. Gives body to hair that is 15.2 cm (six inches) long or longer. 35. Gives soft, medium curl to average length hair. 36. Produces tighter curl on short hair. 37. Is used in upper sections of the head and may be preferred for hair 15.2 cm (six inches) or longer for easier wrapping. 38. Produces firm curls; is used for short hair or small head size and may be used in nape area on most size heads. 39. Wraps small, fine hairs generally found in nape area or over the ears for very firm curl. 40. Creates definite wave pattern close to the head. 41. Creates same size of curl on wave pattern throughout hair strand. Column B a) extra short (midget) b) long c) double d) concave e) short f) straight g) thick h) coarse i) medium j) thin 42. Place an "x" beside the factors that may affect permanent processing. a) climate b) body size c) condition of client's hair d) improper saturation of rods e) working speed of cosmetologist f) type of comb used g) body heat h) medication i) room drafts or air conditioning 43. List five methods of determining hair porosity. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 24

33 44. Distinguish between overprocessing and underprocessing of hair during the permanent wave by writing the correct name in the blank provided. a) Wet or dry hair appears weak and limp with little or no curl and hair will not hold a set. b) Hair appears dull, frizzy and dry; hair lacks elasticity and will appear curly when wet and straight when dry and does not hold a set. 45. Discuss in writing the following methods for permanent waving the hair. a) end permanent b) piggy back c) pick-up curls d) transfer e) custom COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 25

34 46. Distinguish between sectioning and blocking hair for a permanent wave by writing the correct terms in the blanks. a) Dividing hair into uniform sections by using the length of the permanent wave rod as a guide. b) Subdividing the sections into uniform rectangular partings to insure an even curl by using the diameter of the rod as a guide. 47. Arrange in order the steps for giving a permanent wave by numbering the steps in the correct order. a) saturate the hair with permanent wave solution b) block and wrap the hair c) process the permanent wave d) section the hair e) cut the hair (optional) f) shampoo the hair g) discard used end papers h) rinse the hair thoroughly i) neutralize the entire head j) rinse the hair k) blot each rod l) unwind and remove the rods and end papers m) towel dry n) complete the record card o) style the hair as desired p) clean the work area and sanitize implements q) apply protective cream and cotton strips r) drape the client properly s) fill out the portion of the record card t) determine the type of solution and proper size of rods to use u) analyze the hair and scalp 48. Place an "x" beside safety precautions to observe while giving a permanent wave. a) Use a cotton strip around the neckline to protect the client from the permanent wave solution. b) Brush hair before giving a permanent wave. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 26

35 c) Apply protective cream around the hairline to prevent burns from the permanent wave solution. d) Neutralize thoroughly. e) Avoid leaving the client alone during processing time. f) Cover all hair ends with nonporous end papers to avoid fishhook ends. g) Cleanse the permanent wave rods thoroughly after the neutralizing step. h) Avoid applying a cream rinse after a permanent wave. i) Change the towel draped around client's neck if it becomes saturated. j) Take pre-permanent test curls if in doubt about the processing time or the strength of permanent wave solution to use. k) Avoid applying permanent wave solution to hair that has been treated with a metallic dye. l) Examine the scalp for abrasions before giving a permanent wave. m) Stretch hair or place tension on hair when wrapping to prevent retardation of the permanent wave solution. n) Wash hands before and after client. o) Discard neutralizer after use unless properly sealed. p) Avoid giving a permanent wave and a tint on the same day. q) Apply cold water or sweet milk if permanent wave solution gets into the client's eyes. r) Apply petroleum jelly to the skin for permanent wave burns. 49. Select from the following list rules for developing a good permanent wave by placing an "x" in the correct blanks. a) The size of the permanent wave rod determines the size of the curl. b) Hair will not curl smaller than the rod on which it is rolled. c) Smaller rods are usually recommended for the crown area where hair is more resistant. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 27

36 d) A tight curl is a strong curl on a small rod. e) Permanent wave solution should be left on for a longer time if a tighter curl is desired. f) When using concave rods, the hair ends may be converged slightly; for straight rods, the ends should be spread evenly. g) Cone-shaped permanent wave curls are made with a concave rod; cylinder-shaped curls are made with a straight rod. h) A successful permanent wave depends mainly on a good haircut, proper selection of rods and waving lotion, and proper wrapping. i) A body wave is an underprocessed curl. j) Normal hair curls easiest at the ends and is more difficult to curl at the scalp. 50. Identify the three historical methods of waving the hair. The answer key for this review is at the end of this learning outcome. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 28

37 Answer Key(s) 2.3 Review Exercise 1. d) 2. f) 3. b) 4. g) 5. e) 6. a) 7. c) 8. h) 9. k) 10. i) 11. j) 12. m) 13. l) 14. q) 15. n) 16. p) 17. a) texture - degree of coarseness or fineness of the individual hair strand b) density - amount of hair per square centimetre (square inch) on the scalp 18. The following are identified: a) cuticle b) cortex c) medulla d) chemical bond 19. c) 20. b) 21. a) 22. d) 23. Six types of products used in permanent waving are a) alkaline waving lotion, b) acid waving lotion, c) ester waving lotion, d) instant neutralizer, e) splash neutralizer, and f) self-neutralizing neutralizer. 24. Discussed below are chemical agents that are used in permanent waving products. a) Alkaline permanent wave solution - thioglycolic acid (thio acid) which measures 8.5 to 9.5 on the ph scale. b) Acid permanent wave solution - thioglycolic-based solution having a ph value of 7.0 to 7.9. c) Ester permanent wave solution - solution is formed through the interaction of an acid combined with alcohol. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 29

38 d) Instant neutralizer - premixed, creamy formula is used directly from the container or poured into an applicator bottle. e) Splash neutralizer - neutralizer is poured over the rods using a small sponge and a basin placed in the sink. f) Self-neutralizing neutralizer - hair is allowed to dry naturally after the rods are removed. 25. The actions that take place in the hair when permanent wave and neutralizer solutions are applied are as follows: a) When permanent wave solution is applied it causes the hair to soften and swell or expand which releases the chemical bonds in the cuticle layer and allows the hair to take the shape of the curling rod. b) When neutralizer solution is applied it causes the hair to harden and shrink which reforms the chemical bonds, locks hair in its new form, and stops the permanent wave action. 26. b) 27. d) 28. a) 29. c) 30. The types of wave wraps are a) double, b) book, and c) single. 31. c) 32. b) 33. a) 34. g) 35. i) 36. j) 37. b) 38. e) 39. a) 40. d) 41. f) 42. Indicated with an "x" are the factors that may affect permanent processing. a) x climate b) body size c) x condition of client's hair d) x improper saturation of rods e) x working speed of cosmetologist f) type of comb used g) x body heat h) x medication i) x room drafts or air conditioning 43. Five methods of determining hair porosity are a) ruffling, b) cutting dry hair with scissors, c) cupping the hair, d) wetting the hair, and e) drying the hair. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 30

39 44. Distinguishing between overprocessing and underprocessing of hair during the permanent wave are a) underprocessed hair - wet or dry hair appears weak and limp with little or no curl and hair will not hold a set it is called, and b) overprocessed hair - hair appears dull, frizzy and dry; hair lacks elasticity and will appear curly when wet and straight when dry and does not hold a set it is called. 45. Discussion should include the following: a) end permanent - gives support to hair ends, leaving the hair smooth near the scalp b) piggy back - allows more curl at the scalp and uniform curl throughout the hair strand on long hair c) pick-up curls - adds curl in one or more areas of the head due to loss of curl during cutting, naturally curly hair which is unevenly curled throughout the head, improper saturation of the hair with solution or neutralizer in one area of the head, causing that area to have less curl; and improper size of rods used for the length of hair or type of curl desired. d) transfer - hair is rolled and processed on small size rods and placed on larger size rods to neutralize e) custom - wave designed for the individual client; special procedures, application, and conditioners are used f) transfer - hair is rolled and processed on small size rods and placed on larger size rods to neutralize g) custom - wave designed for the individual client; special procedures, application, and conditioners are used 46. Distinguishes between sectioning and blocking hair for a permanent wave are as follows: a) sectioning - dividing hair into uniform sections by using the length of the permanent wave rod as a guide b) blocking - subdividing the sections into uniform rectangular partings to insure an even curl by using the diameter of the rod as a guide 47. The following is the correct order for giving a permanent wave: a) 10 saturate the hair with permanent wave solution b) 8 block and wrap the hair c) 11 process the permanent wave d) 7 section the hair e) 6 cut the hair (optional) f) 5 shampoo the hair g) 21 discard used end papers h) 16 rinse the hair thoroughly i) 14 neutralize the entire head j) 12 rinse the hair k) 13 blot each rod l) 15 unwind and remove the rods and end papers m) 17 towel dry n) 19 complete the record card o) 18 style the hair as desired p) 20 clean the work area and sanitize implements q) 9 apply protective cream and cotton strips COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 31

40 r) 1 drape the client properly s) 4 fill out the portion of the record card t) 3 determine the type of solution and proper size of rods to use u) 2 analyze the hair and scalp 48. Indicated with an "x" are safety precautions to observe while giving a permanent wave. a) Use a cotton strip around the neckline to protect the client from the permanent wave solution. b) Brush hair before giving a permanent wave. c) x Apply protective cream around the hairline to prevent burns from the permanent wave solution. d) x Neutralize thoroughly. e) x Avoid leaving the client alone during processing time. f) Cover all hair ends with nonporous end papers to avoid fishhook ends. g) x Cleanse the permanent wave rods thoroughly after the neutralizing step. h) x Avoid applying a cream rinse after a permanent wave. i) x Change the towel draped around client's neck if it becomes saturated. j) x Take pre-permanent test curls if in doubt about the processing time or the strength of permanent wave solution to use. k) x Avoid applying permanent wave solution to hair that has been treated with a metallic dye. l) x Examine the scalp for abrasions before giving a permanent wave. m) Stretch hair or place tension on hair when wrapping to prevent retardation of the permanent wave solution. n) x Wash hands before and after client. o) x Discard neutralizer after use unless properly sealed. p) x Avoid giving a permanent wave and a tint on the same day. q) x Apply cold water or sweet milk if permanent wave solution gets into the client's eyes. r) Apply petroleum jelly to the skin for permanent wave burns. 49. Indicated with an "x" list rules for developing a good permanent wave. a) x The size of the permanent wave rod determines the size of the curl. b) x Hair will not curl smaller than the rod on which it is rolled. c) Smaller rods are usually recommended for the crown area where hair is more resistant. d) x A tight curl is a strong curl on a small rod. e) Permanent wave solution should be left on for a longer time if a tighter curl is desired. f) x When using concave rods, the hair ends may be converged slightly; for straight rods, the ends should be spread evenly. g) x Cone-shaped permanent wave curls are made with a concave rod; cylinder-shaped curls are made with a straight rod. h) x A successful permanent wave depends mainly on a good haircut, proper selection of rods and waving lotion, and proper wrapping. i) A body wave is an underprocessed curl. j) x Normal hair curls easiest at the ends and is more difficult to curl at the scalp. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 32

41 50. Three historical methods of waving the hair are a) machine permanent, b) preheat permanent, and c) machineless permanent. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO1 Page 33

42 Learning Outcome 2 Consult With the Client to Determine Chemical Waving Outcomes Learning Step 1 Analyze the Scalp and Hair for Permanent 1.1 Workshop Attend the workshop, Preparation for Texturizing Services. The instructor may have you view the Milady Standard Cosmetology DVD Chemical Texture Services. You will discuss hair analysis and how it pertains to wrapping and processing a permanent wave. 1.2 Review Exercise 1. By means of scalp and hair analysis, the cosmetologist can judge the differences in the quality of human hair. Which three qualities should the cosmetologist observe in human hair? 2. A careful scalp and hair examination is needed before giving a cold wave. What three conditions require that a cold wave be postponed? 3. Porosity refers to the ability of the hair to absorb fluids or liquids. a) How can porous hair be recognized at the shampoo sink? COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO2 Page 34

43 b) Using the finger test, how can porous hair be recognized? c) Using the finger test, how can non-porous or resistant hair be recognized? 4. Hair texture refers to the individual size of the hair strand and its degree of coarseness or fineness. a) What two important factors determine processing time? b) To what are the variations in hair texture due? 5. Elasticity refers to the ability of the hair to stretch and contract. Name four types of hair elasticity. 6. The client's hair density and length should also be noted. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO2 Page 35

44 a) What kind of blocking and rods are required if the hair grows thickly? b) What kind of blocking and rods are required if the waving solution is allowed to penetrate more rapidly than coarse hair having a large diameter? c) What hair length may need special attention? Explain. The answer key for this review is at the end of this learning outcome. 1.3 Practical Exercise Analyze the Types of Hair Resources Required 1. three student models 2. instructor 3. comb 4. pen Directions Practice analyzing the types of hair by performing three practice tests on three fellow students for porosity, elasticity, texture, and density. Mark your comments for each student in the spaces provided below. Ask each of the students to comment in the spaces provided below. Ask the students to remain in the practice lab until an instructor can look at your analysis, and at the students who were analyzed, and provide you with feedback on your analysis. Student Number 1 1. Porosity Test COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO2 Page 36

45 2. Elasticity Test 3. Texture Text 4. Density Test Student Number 2 1. Porosity Test 2. Elasticity Test 3. Texture Text 4. Density Test COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO2 Page 37

46 Student Number 3 1. Porosity Test 2. Elasticity Test 3. Texture Text 4. Density Test The answer key for this review is at the end of this learning outcome. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO2 Page 38

47 Learning Step 2 Describe Various Chemical Wave Solutions and Their Actions 2.1 Instruction Sheet Solutions for Permanent Waving The advantages of acid waving are that the solution is very mild, and there will be much less damage to hair and less chemical swelling. There is also more efficiency in reforming sulfur bonds and less risk of overprocessing. The disadvantages of acid waving are that it is so mild that it may not penetrate the hair shaft on its own, and it may require an external heat application - some clients will not be able to tolerate the amount of heat required. Some clients who have cold waves may not feel the curl lasts as long with an acid wave. Note: Be sure to rinse very thoroughly when doing an acid wave as some heads may have a problem with odour retention. Things to Remember in Acid Waving 1. Wrap the hair on perm rods with a slight bit more tension than you would use in alkaline waving. 2. Be sure that a strong "S" formation is present before neutralizing. 3. Be exceptionally sure of rod size - what you use is what you get! 4. Continue to be meticulous about sectioning, blocking and contouring. 5. Thoroughly saturate each curl - unless the chemical is there, you will not get a curl. 6. Thoroughly neutralize - unless the bonds are reformed, you will not get curl. 7. Follow the manufacturer's directions. Selecting the Proper Solutions The choice of the permanent wave solution is determined by the hair analysis. The length, porosity, texture and elasticity are all factors that help to make your decision on selecting the best permanent wave solution. Porosity - or the amount of time it takes the solution to penetrate the hair shaft - is the most important. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO2 Page 39

48 Type of Hair Normal Resistant Tinted Bleached Best Wave Solution Regular Stronger Mild Mildest If there is concern about which strength is best, choose the next mildest solution. If the solution that was chosen does not make the hair curl, the next strongest solution can be applied after the hair has been towel dried. Note: A recent development has been a solution for frosted or similar type hair. A solution is first combed through the hair to bring all the hair to the same porosity level. Then the hair is wrapped and the waving lotion applied. Manufacturer's instructions should be followed to make sure protein, vitamins, and/or any other materials are added as recommended. The basic ingredient in cold waving lotions in general use today is ammonium thioglycolate, commonly known as thio. Other ingredients may be lanolin and derivatives, wetting agents, protein and conditioners. The chemical solution used in cold waving penetrates the hair shaft and softens the hair by breaking down the chemical bonds in the hair. Neutralizers contain peroxide, lanolin and other special ingredients. Conditioners are often incorporated in the neutralizers to help protect the hair. They come in various forms including liquid, crystals, or powders. Be sure to follow manufacturer s instructions for the mixing and application. Neutralizers re-harden the chemical bonds into the shape that the hair is wound. The newest development in permanent waving is the neutral or acid perm. Because of the damaging high alkaline count of the cold wave, manufacturers have tried to develop a less damaging solution. So, the neutral or acid perm has been introduced - this uses other chemical compounds besides thio. The ph of these chemicals is 5.5 to 7, and heat is needed to activate this solution. There are two methods of applying this required heat. Method 1 - A plastic bag over the hair is needed - then the hair dryer is used. Method 2 - Pre-heated clamps are placed on the solution-dampened hair. Be sure to follow manufacturer's instructions. 2.2 Review Exercise 1. The term "cold wave" is given because is not used. 2. In cold waving, instead of heat causing the hair to curl, curl the hair. 3. Curl is achieved through cold waving by the physical effects of the hair around the rods. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO2 Page 40

49 4. During the chemical waving process, the chemical changes to the hair shaft are the softening and from the waving lotion, and shrinking from the neutralizer. 5. When wrapping permanent wave rods, use tension. 6. Cold waves are available in two types. Name them. 7. The most important basic chemical in the cold waving lotion is ammonium. 8. To promote penetrating, softening and swelling of the hair shaft, ammonia is added to. 9. The ammonia makes the lotion alkaline, so the ph range would be Acid waves are made from the same thioglycolate base as thio waves, but acid waves fall in a ph balance range of to. 11. The ph range for neutral perms is. 12. An acid permanent will not process without. Determine whether each of the following statement(s) is true or false. 13. T F Processing with waving lotion has a chemical effect. 14. T F Neutralizing with a separate solution has a physical effect. 15. T F Winding hair on the rods physically breaks the hydrogen bonds in the hair. 16. T F In processing, the waving lotion hardens and shrinks the hair. 17. T F Waving lotion breaks the cystine disulfide sulfur bonds, which are uniform around the rod. 18. T F When softened hair is wound around a rod, the hair will take the shape of the diameter of the rod. 19. T F Neutralizer is applied to hair when it has reached the desired curl. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO2 Page 41

50 20. T F Neutralizer softens and swells the hair. 21. T F Acid waves are so called because their ph is higher than one. 22. T F Scalp irritation is less frequent with acid waves than with thio waves. 23. T F The thio wave is basically a cold type of wave, although body heat is necessary. 24. T F If you leave a damp towel around the neck, or damp cotton around the hairline, the result will be a chemical burn. 25. What is the most important factor in the selection of the waving solution? 26. What type of solution is used on bleached hair? 27. What factors determine the type of solution to use? 28. When in doubt about the strength of a solution, what should you do? 29. If the hair is damaged, what may be necessary when perming? 30. What is the most basic ingredient in cold wave lotions? 31. What are some other ingredients in cold wave solutions? COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO2 Page 42

51 32. What does the cold wave solution do to the hair? 33. What is contained in neutralizers? 34. In what forms can neutralizers be purchased? 35. What does the neutralizer do to the hair? 36. What is the ph of the neutral or acid perm? 37. What is needed to activate the acid wave? 38. Describe two methods of using neutral or acid wave. 39. What size rod is used on long hair? COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO2 Page 43

52 40. What size rod is used on medium length hair? 41. What size rod is used on short hair? 42. Name the two types of rods that are in general use. 43. Large, straight rods usually create what type of wave? 44. What controls the shape of the hair during the waving process? 45. What type of rod is used to create a definite wave pattern, close to the head? 46. List the various lengths of curling rods. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO2 Page 44

53 Match the rationale statement in the right-hand column with the correct procedure in the lefthand column by placing the appropriate letter in the corresponding blank. Column A 47. Carefully inspect the condition of the client's scalp. Ask the client what, if any, home and professional chemical services he or she has used in the past twelve months. 48. Consider the texture and colour of the client's hair. Determine if the hair is fine, medium, or coarse. Natural red, and coarse, gray hair will be more difficult to wave than other types and colours. 49. Assess the density and length of the client's hair. 50. Comb through the hair to determine whether it was cut with a razor or scissors. Ask the client if you are uncertain. 51. Ask the client the amount of curl desired - body, soft or firm wave. Request picture(s) of the desired hairstyle and consider the length of the style shown. 52. Ask the client how often he or she gets a professional cold wave. Column B a) Razor cuts may have removed too much bulk from the ends of the hair strand. In this case the end has less resistance to cold waving lotion and becomes frizzy or fuzzy. To avoid this, blunt cut the hair (with scissors) prior to waving and wrap it properly. b) The diameter of the cold wave rods and the number of rods used will determine the degree to which the hair will wave or curl. Large, straight rods or concave rods can be used for a body wave. As noted in the chapter on sculpture curling, the hair must rotate 1 ½ to 2 ½ turns to wave. A soft to medium curl will result from 2 ½ to 3 ½ turns. A firm cold wave formation will be produced by 3 ¾ or more turns. For hair that is not very porous, add one additional turn (in rotation to above numbers). The size of the parting (blocking) also determines the size of the curl. c) If the hair per square inch is very dense, smaller partings and very large rods seem to wave best. Very sparse (thin) hair waves best when small rods are used. If the hair is quite long (over 6 inches), you may wish to use the procedure for cold waving long hair. d) Cold waving is not permitted if cuts, abrasions, or red irritation appear on the scalp. Consult your instructor if necessary. e) The client who schedules a cold wave once or twice per year probably is accustomed to a firm curl. On the other hand, one who gets a cold wave 3 or 4 times per year may need only a soft or body wave. f) Fine hair is fragile and may require a milder strength lotion than medium or coarse hair. If the hair has been tinted or frosted, use a lotion that is milder than COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO2 Page 45

54 one for medium or coarse hair, although coarse hair also may be very porous. 53. Uniform wave patterns are characteristic of good hair sectioning and blocking. a) What six factors determine the choice of blocking pattern? b) Name four popular blocking patterns. 54. The client's needs and requirements govern how the hair is to be sectioned and blocked. a) What two factors determine the size of the wave formation? b) What use is made of the following? double halo wrap COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO2 Page 46

55 single halo wrap straight back wrap dropped crown wrap 55. How should the hair be blocked when dealing with the following hair types? COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO2 Page 47

56 a) coarse hair b) fine hair c) lightened or tinted hair having a fine texture d) resistant hair, thick hair growth and longer hair e) hair at the nape of the neck COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO2 Page 48

57 56. How are bangs created? 57. What rods are used to create a body wave? 58. Correct hair wrapping helps to achieve good results in cold waving. a) What is the purpose of end papers? b) Label each of the following statements as being desirable or undesirable. wrap the hair smoothly and neatly on each rod stretch the hair as it is wound on the rod correct wrapping permits better saturation of the lotion produce a bulky strand when wrapping the hair on the rod The answer key for this review is at the end of this learning outcome. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO2 Page 49

58 Answer Key(s) 1.2 Review Exercise 1. Three qualities a cosmetologist should observe in human hair are a) hair porosity, b) hair texture, and c) hair elasticity. 2. Three conditions that require a cold wave to be postponed are a) over-porous damaged hair, b) an abrasion, or c) an irritated scalp. 3. Porostiy refers to the ability of the hair to absorb fluids or liquids. a) Porous hair can be recognized at the shampoo sink because the hair will wet easily and thoroughly with the initial spray of water. b) Using the finger test, porous hair can be recognized. Hold a strand of hair firmly with the thumb and index finger. Slide the fingers of the other hand down the hair strand from the hair ends to the scalp. If the hair ruffles it is porous; the more ruffles, the more porous. c) Using the finger test, porous or resistant hair can be recognized if, when using the above test, the fingers slide easily and no ruffles are formed, that hair is non-porous and usually requires a longer processing time. 4. Hair texture refers to the individual size of the hair strand and its degree of coarseness and fineness. a) Two important factors that determine processing time are hair texture, and hair porosity. b) The variations in hair texture are due to the diameter of the hair shaft and the feel of the hair. 5. Four types of hair elasticity are a) very good, b) good, c) fairly good, and d) poor. 6. The client's hair density and length should also be noted. a) Smaller blockings and larger rods are required if the hair grows quickly. b) Smaller blocking sections and smaller rods are required if the waving solution is allowed to penetrate more rapidly than coarse hair having a large diameter. c) Special attention should be given to hair longer than six inches, since it cannot be wrapped tight enough to form a strong wave near the scalp. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO2 Page 50

59 2.2 Review Exercise 1. The term "cold wave" is given because heat is not used. 2. In cold waving, instead of heat causing the hair to curl, chemicals curl the hair. 3. Curl is achieved through cold waving by the physical effects of wrapping the hair around the rods. 4. During the chemical waving process, the chemical changes to the hair shaft are softening and swelling from the waving lotion, hardening and shrinking from the neutralizer. 5. When wrapping permanent wave rods, use loose tension. 6. Cold waves are available in two types. They are thio and acid. 7. The most important basic chemical in the cold waving lotion is ammonium thioglocolate. 8. To promote penetrating, softening and swelling of the hair shaft, ammonia is added to acid. 9. The ammonia makes the lotion alkaline, so the ph range would be 8.5 to Acid waves are made from the same thioglycolate base as thio waves, but acid waves fall in a ph balance range of 5.8 to The ph range for neutral perms is 4.5 to An acid permanent will not process without heat. 13. True 14. False 15. True 16. False 17. True 18. True 19. True 20. False 21. True 22. True 23. True 24. True 25. The most important factor in the selection of the waving solution is porosity. 26. The mildest type of solution is used on bleached hair. 27. The factors that determine the type of solution to use are a) length, b) porosity, c) texture, and d) elasticity. 28. When in doubt about the strength of a solution for bleached hair, you should use the next mildest solution. 29. If the hair is damaged, conditioning may be necessary before applying a waving solution. 30. The most basic ingredient in cold wave lotions is thioglycolate (thio). 31. Other ingredients in cold wave solutions are a) lanolin, b) wetting agents, c) protein, and d) conditioners. 32. The cold wave solution softens and breaks hair bonds. 33. Peroxide is contained in neutralizers. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO2 Page 51

60 34. Neutralizers can be purchased in the following forms: a) crystals, b) liquids, or c) powder. 35. The neutralizer rehardens the chemical bonds in hair. 36. The ph of the neutral or acid perm is 5.5 to Heat is needed to activate the acid wave. 38. Two methods of using neutral or acid waves are a) pre-heated clamps, or b) a hair dryer. 39. A thick rod is used on long hair. 40. A medium rod is used on medium length hair. 41. A thin rod is used on short hair. 42. Two types of rods that are in general use are a) straight, and b) concave. 43. Large, straight rods usually create a body type of wave. 44. The size of the rods control the shape of the hair during the waving process. 45. A concave rod is used to create a definite wave pattern close to the head. 46. The various lengths of curling rods are a) long, b) medium, and c) short. (3 ½" to 1 ¾"), (9 cm to 4.5 cm) 47. d) 48. f) 49. c) 50. a) 51. b) 52. e) 53. Uniform wave patterns are characteristic of good hair sectioning and blocking. a) Six factors that determine the choice of a blocking pattern are hair texture, density, length, the contour of the head, the ultimate wave pattern desired, and the preference of the cosmetologist. b) Four blocking patterns are double halo (double horseshoe), single halo, straight back, and dropped crown. 54. The client's needs and requirements govern how the hair is to be sectioned and blocked. a) Two factors in determining the size of the wave formation are the size of the rods, and blockings. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO2 Page 52

61 b) The uses made are as follows: the double halo wrap is usually used for larger heads the single halo wrap is commonly used for average size heads the straight back wrap may be used for hair with bangs or on a hairline with a prominent widow s peak the dropped crown wrap is usually used for longer hair and for a smooth crown effect 55. Hair should be blocked, using the following procedures: a) coarse hair - use smaller hair sections and larger rods b) fine hair - use smaller hair sections and medium or smaller rods c) lightened or tinted hair having a fine texture - use smaller hair sections and medium rods d) resistant hair, thick hair growth and longer hair - divide the hair into narrower sections e) hair at the nape of the neck - use smaller sections and smaller rods 56. Bangs are created by wrapping the first two top front curls in a forward direction. 57. Extra large straight rods are used to create a body wave. 58. Correct hair wrapping helps to achieve good results in cold waving. a) The purpose of end papers is to help form smooth, even curls; they minimize the danger of hair breakage, and they help to smooth out uneven hair ends. b) The correct labels are as follows: desirable - wrap the hair smoothly and neatly on each rod undesirable - stretch the hair as it is wound on the rod desirable - correct wrapping permits better saturation of the lotion undesirable- produce a bulky strand when wrapping the hair on the rod COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO2 Page 53

62 Learning Outcome 3 Wrap Hair for a Basic Conventional Wave Learning Step 1 Wrap Hair for a Basic Conventional Wave 1.1 Workshop Basic Sectioning and Permanent Wave Wraps Attend the workshop, Basic Sectioning and Permanent Wave Wraps. Learning Step 2 Section and Wrap for a Basic Conventional Permanent Wave 2.1 Practical Exercise Perform Basic Sectioning and Permanent Wave Wraps Resources Required 1. mannequins short medium lengths 2. end papers 3. section clips 4. long and short perm rods (fushia, white, grey, pink, blue) Directions On basic length mannequins, section and perform the wrap the following basic permanent wave wraps. The following diagram show the basic sectioning used for all basic permanent wave wraps. Perm rods are color coded for the different sizes. You will be wrapping in the various rod sizes for practise. When completed have an instructor sign your successfully completed practice labs. Then proceed to the next wrap. a) Basic wrap to right side with white rods INSERT PICTURE AND GRAPHICS HERE for each wrap by the heading b) Basic wrap to left side with grey rods INSERT PICTURE AND GRAPHICS HERE for each wrap by the heading c) Basic wrap straight back with Fushia rods COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO3 Page 54

63 INSERT PICTURE AND GRAPHICS HERE for each wrap by the heading d) Basic wrap forward with pink rods INSERT PICTURE AND GRAPHICS HERE for each wrap by the heading e) Basic wrap short hair with blue rods INSERT PICTURE AND GRAPHICS HERE for each wrap by the heading f) Double halo wrap with grey or white rods. INSERT PICTURE AND GRAPHICS HERE for each wrap by the heading 2.2 Practical Exercise Speed Builder Basic Wraps Resources Required 1. mannequins of various short to medium lengths 2. end papers 3. section clips 4. long and short perm rods (fushia, white, grey, pink, blue) Directions 1. You will practice sectioning and wrapping basic perms until you can section and wrap in less than 45 minutes. You must complete a minimum of 10 basic wraps. You may need to do additional wraps if your speed is more than 45 minutes (for sectioning and wrapping) or if the completed wrap is below the acceptable standard. These basic perm wraps will prepare you for the basic permanent wave wrap practical testing as well as customer service. a. basic wrap to the right fushia b. basic wrap to the left pink c. basic wrap straight back grey d. basic wrap forward bang (short hair) blue e. double halo wrap white f. basic wrap to the right (short hair) blue & pink alternating g. basic wrap to the left white & fushia alternating h. basic wrap straight back pink & grey alternaing i. basic wrap forward bang - grey& white alternating j. basic wrap (choice of front) fushia with nape in white COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO3 Page 55

64 2.3 Review Exercise From Milady standard Cosmetology Practical Workbook, complete the questions from the chapter Chemical Texture Services. Your answers will be marked and discussed in class. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO3 Page 56

65 Learning Outcome 4 Wrap Hair for Specialized Permanent Wave Wraps Learning Step 1 Specialized Permanent Wave Wraps 1.1 Workshop Specialized Wave Wraps Attend the workshop, Specialized Wave Wraps. In this workshop you will discuss a variety of specialized perming techniques and wraps. The instructor will demonstrate the techniques for the specialized wraps you will be performing. Learning Step 2 Perform Specialized Permanent Wave Wraps 2.1 Practical Exercise Perform Specialized Permanent Wave Wraps Resources Required 1. textbook, Milady Standard Cosmetology 2. a mannequin Directions 1. Complete wraps for curvature perm wraps. Bricklay, piggy back, and spiral perms on mannequins of suitable hair length. Show your completed specialized wraps to an instructor and have your successful practical exercise signed. 2. From the textbook, Milady Standard Cosmetology, complete the following Practical Exercises: Using the Procedures at a Glance a) Wrap a Curvature Permanent Wrap b) A Bricklay Permanent Wrap c) Using a Weave Technique d) Use a Double Rod or Piggyback Technique e) Using a Spiral Wrap Technique Insert new pictures/ graphics for each perm wrap COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO4 Page 57

66 COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO4 Page 58

67 Learning Outcome 5 Apply a Permanent Wave Treatment Learning Step 1 Prepare for a Permanent Wave Treatment 1.1 Instruction Sheet Preparing Hair for a Permanent Wave After the hair analysis, the hair must be cleansed. Shampooing is necessary but hairbrushing should be omitted. A mild shampoo should be used without any scalp manipulation. If necessary or requested the hair may need to be conditioned. Hairshaping is a prerequisite to perming, unless the client objects. A good blunt cut will prevent the ends from becoming fuzzy or frizzy. A razor cut could remove too much bulk from the ends and cause problems. Since the size of the rod determines the size of the wave formation, the style of the finished product must be considered. If the hair is to be blown dry, use a large rod, smaller rods for a wet set or when drying naturally for a curly look. If the hair is gray and there is a lack of elasticity, a smaller rod should be used. Section hair according to sectioning or blocking pattern needed. Starting in the nape (neck) of the centre section, hold the hair section straight out from the head, fold the porous end paper over the strand, and slide the paper to the end of the strand. Roll the strand over the rod with the paper making the first turn to avoid fish hook ends. Turn the roller up to the scalp and fasten the rod in the centre. After shampooing and towel drying, the hair will need to be moistened so that it can be easily wrapped. Figure 1 COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO5 Page 59

68 Apply lotion ½" from the scalp and to 1" of ends. Comb from underneath. The second application of the waving lotion should be made after all sections are wrapped and rolled. Apply the solution with an applicator bottle to each rod - have cotton below each rod to catch any solution that runs (to keep it off the scalp). Make sure each curl is saturated. Figure 2 When checking the process of the curl, the hair should be unwound without pulling or stretching the hair. Figure 3 Make test curls every three minutes following application. unfasten the rod, release 1 ½ turns place both thumbs on the rod to keep hair in place turn your wrists, pushing the rod toward the scalp look for an S-formation or breaks (separations) near the scalp COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO5 Page 60

69 Figure 4 When properly processed, the curl will form an "S." Soft "S" - body wave Medium "S" - more than body Firm "S" - curls The more breaks in the hair, the more curl there will be. Figure 5 If the hair has not completed processing it will look like this. Figure 6 If the ends are very porous and are not trimmed or conditioned, frizzy ends can result from over processing. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO5 Page 61

70 Figure 7 If the hair is allowed to over process, it will look like this when wet but will have no wave when it is dry. Figure 8 If the hair is wound too tightly around the rod, the ends will not curl properly. Figure 9 When the proper amount of curl has been reached, the curling lotion must be rinsed from the hair. After the hair has been towel blotted, an application of a neutralizer is usually performed at the shampoo bowl. There are two common methods of applying the neutralizer: 1. Direct, on-the-rod-instant, or applicator method. Each curl is saturated as with waving lotion starting at the top centre. 2. Conventional, or splash-on method. Half the neutralizer is poured through each curl and caught in a container and then is reapplied with cotton or a sponge until each curl is saturated. Manufacturer's instructions should be read and followed each time the process is performed. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO5 Page 62

71 Figure 10 It is important to thoroughly rinse both the permanent wave and the neutralizer solutions from the hair. A gentle flow of water is recommended so as not to disturb hair in this softened condition. The rods may be left in as you rinse and then carefully removed after towel drying for the set, or the rods may be removed carefully and more neutralizer applied to the hair. The hair is then rinsed and set. If the neutralizer is not properly applied, the waving lotion will continue to process and damage the hair. 1.2 Review Assignment From the practical workbook, Milady Standard Cosmetology, complete the questions on Chemical Texture Services up to Chemical Relaxing. Your answers will be marked in class. 1.3 Review Exercise 1. Why are test curls necessary? 2. What four observations can be made with test curls? COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO5 Page 63

72 3. List four conditions which require pre-permanent test curls? 4. At what point in cold waving are wave development test curls applied? 5. How frequently are such test curls applied? 6. Should each test curl be on a different part of the head? 7. Should the cosmetologist judge and record the final results of such test curls? 8. What type of substances does shampooing remove from the hair? 9. If the hair is not shampooed prior to permanent waving, what might be the result of the permanent waving? 10. What type of shampoo is used for a pre-permanent shampoo? COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO5 Page 64

73 11. Why are brushing the hair and massaging the scalp avoided? 12. Why is a thorough rinsing important? 13. What should the cosmetologist look for during a thorough examination of the hair and scalp? 14. To prevent injury, what kind of protection should be taken a) for the cosmetologist? b) for the client? c) if the waving lotion gets into the client's eye? COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO5 Page 65

74 15. For best results in cold waving, a) what is the most efficient kind of applicator? b) at what distance from the scalp should the lotion be applied to the hair? c) at what distance from the hair ends should lotion be applied? d) can the client be left alone during cold waving? 16. Careful regulation of the processing time assures good results in cold waving. a) Define processing time. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO5 Page 66

75 b) What eight variable factors affect the processing time? 17. When the wave formation reaches its peak, stop the processing of the hair. a) What is the peak point in wave formation? b) What may happen if the hair is processed beyond the peak point? 18. What are two signs of underprocessed hair? 19. What are three signs of overprocessed hair? 20. Can a series of reconditioning treatments help overprocessed hair? COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO5 Page 67

76 21. What corrective measures can be taken for underprocessed hair? 22. What is the function of the neutralizer in cold waving? 23. Name two methods of neutralization in cold waving. 24. Which curls are the first to receive the neutralizer? Match the items in Column B with those in Column A by placing the appropriate letter in the space provided. Column A Column B 25. Width of a section. a) hair brushing 26. To be omitted before a permanent. 27. Always precedes a perm unless client does not want it. 28. Kind of end papers. 29. Where rods should not be fastened. 30. Make the first turn around the rod with an end paper 31. Place where wrapping begins. b) next to scalp c) to avoid fish hooks d) width of rod e) porous f) hair shaping g) nape of neck COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO5 Page 68

77 Match the items in Column B with those in Column A by placing the appropriate letter in the space provided. Column A Column B 32. To help keep solution off the scalp. a) index fingers 33. What holds hair in place on the rod in making test curls appear. 34. How hair should appear for a curly look. 35. When test curls should be taken. b) firm "S" c) rods d) thumbs e) easy "S" f) cotton g) every five minutes following application of solution h) every few minutes following application of solution 36. What is applied around the forehead and ears before applying the waving lotion? 37. Which aspects of the hair does regular testing enable the stylist to observe? 38. What are some factors that affect the processing time? 39. When has the wave reached its peak? COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO5 Page 69

78 40. Describe the hair after any processing beyond the point of a well formed "S." 41. What type of hair will not produce a firm pattern? 42. What happens to the hair if the neutralizer is used sparingly? 43. What care should be taken while rinsing the hair? 44. What directions should be followed when applying solutions and neutralizers? 45. At what three points should curl-wave development be tested? COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO5 Page 70

79 46. Define the results of the following diagrams. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO5 Page 71

80 Learning Step 2 Perform a Permanent Wave Treatment 2.1 Workshop Permanent Waving Attend the workshop, Permanent Waving. The instructor may have you view the procedure from Milady s Standard DVD series, Procedure: Permanent Wave and Processing Using a Basic Permanent Wave. In this workshop the instructor will demonstrate step by step the client preparation, consultation, and analysis, permanent wave solution selection and the permanent wrap application, test curling, rinsing, neutralizing and completion with home care recommendations. As part of this workshop you will complete 2.2 Practical Exercise - Give a Permanent Wave. 2.2 Practical Exercise Give a Permanent Wave Resources Required 1. a mannequin (ask an instructor to provide you with a mannequin suitable for this practical exercise) 2. a comb 3. permanent wave rods 4. end papers 5. clips 6. towels 7. a neck strip 8. a timer 9. rubber gloves 10. a record card 11. an applicator bottle 12. plastic wrap (optional) 13. a neutralizing cape 14. a tray for rods 15. shampoo 16. permanent wave solution 17. neutralizer 18. a water bottle 19. a cotton strip 20. protective cream (should be a heavy, water-soluble type cream) Note: Select solution according to hair texture, condition, and porosity of the hair. Some solutions require external heat source to activate. Read the manufacturer s directions. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO5 Page 72

81 Directions Note: The steps marked with an asterisk cannot be done with a mannequin, but must be done when servicing a client or fellow student. 1. Inform an instructor that you are going to practice this procedure, in order to be credited for the practice. 2. Prepare the mannequin. a) Read through the client record card fill out as if it was a client for practice b) attach the mannequin to a mannequin stand c) drape the mannequin 3. Analyze the scalp and hair. a) check the scalp for abrasions (if abrasions are present check with an instructor before continuing) b) check the hair to determine whether it is dry, oily or normal c) check the hair to determine the elasticity and porosity levels d) consult with the mannequin/model to determine what services were done to his/her hair at home or in a salon e) begin filling out the record card 4. Discuss with the client the type of curl desired, length of hair desired, problem areas, and the cost of a permanent wave. Note: The cost of permanent waves will vary. Use the current price list. 5. Select the solution and proper size of rods. 6. Read the manufacturer directions carefully. 7. Set up the work area with all needed supplies and place solutions in applicator bottles. If solutions need mixing, wait until you have the entire head wrapped before mixing. Caution! Gather all needed supplies before the permanent begins; the client should not be left alone while processing unless absolutely necessary. 8. Shampoo the client's hair using a deep cleansing shampoo to remove any build up. Perform only one shampoo unless the hair has a lot of product build up or does not feel clean. Use very gentle massage manipulation, but do not irritate the scalp with strong manipulations. Do not brush the scalp prior to shampooing. 9. Cut the hair (if required), making sure not to cut too short for wrapping over taper or thin the hair ends. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO5 Page 73

82 Note: The haircut may be given after the permanent wave or eliminated entirely. However, if a client has had a previous permanent wave, it is better to remove all the old permanent waved ends before beginning a new permanent wave. 10. Place rubber gloves on your hands for wrapping if wrapping in solution and hands are sensitive to the chemical. 11. Section, block, and wrap hair. Note: The hair may be slightly dampened with permanent wave solution during wrapping by saturating one section at a time. If wrapping is slow or if hair is damaged or extremely porous, wrapping in water or conditioner is recommended. 12. Apply protective cream and a cotton strip around the hairline to prevent lotion from getting on the client's skin. 13. Give the client a towel to hold to blot any excess permanent wave solution. 14. Saturate each rod, being careful not to touch the rod or the hair with the applicator nozzle; begin at the top of the nape area, rolling each rod with one hand while saturating with the other hand and continuing from the top of the nape area downward through each section in the nape, sides, top, and crown. Resatuare the head a second time and if required a third time. Do not apply to much solution at one time or it will not be absorbed quick enough and will result in dripping. Note: Saturate the head in the above manner to allow a longer processing time in more resistant areas. 15. Make a test curl immediately after saturation by unwinding a curl in the most porous area at least one and one-half turns. Push the strand toward the scalp during unwinding to determine how much wave pattern has developed. Note: The degree of wave pattern showing will determine how often to make test curls. The first test curl should be taken from the first curls saturated. Test curls should be no farther than five minutes apart. If it s a heat activated perm, it is best not to uncover the head too often as the heat will escape. 16. Allow the hair to process, taking test curls periodically; avoid testing the same curl more than one time. Note: Lightened or damaged hair should be checked every two or three minutes while some resistant hair may require a plastic covering to speed the process time. 17. Remove the cotton strip during processing to prevent irritation from the solution being held on the skin. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO5 Page 74

83 18. Check the hair on all sides of the head if the strand has formed a firm letter S, the size of the rod (see the following figure). 19. Rinse hair thoroughly using a mild temperature and mild water pressure. 20. Blot hair between and on each rod thoroughly. Note: Excess moisture must be removed to allow neutralizer to be absorbed. 21. Apply the neutralizer cape and neutralize the hair in the same manner as in the application of the permanent wave solution. Note: Apply neutralizer on each rod, using the amount required to thoroughly saturate each curl. 22. Leave the neutralizer on the head according to the manufacturer's directions. 23. Unwind the rods gently. 24. Work neutralizer through to the ends. 25. Rinse the hair thoroughly using mild temperature and mild pressure. Apply a finishing rinse to close the cuticle. 26. Blot the hair with a towel. 27. Comb the hair gently, removing all tangles. 28. Check the permanent wave curl or wave pattern. 29. Complete the record card. 30. Set and style as usual. Follow up with recommendations for home care including what products to use and how. Also advise conditioning and styling plus scheduling of their next appointment. COSM 207 Chemical Waving LO5 Page 75