Contents. 10 I What are the. 18 I Adopting. 35 I Robots that NEWS

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1 < I Adopting the new EC Cosmetics Regulations 35 I Robots that change tools when it s time for a change of format Contents 10 I What are the things that hinder a faultless complexion? 22 I Who supplies what packaging check out our latest updated market survey 3 Editorial NEWS 8 Markets + Profiles FOCUS Cosmeceuticals 10 a Angela Kleiner, Croda: A glowing, flawless complexion: The global beauty ideal? 14 News from the multi-faceted world of actives 16 Vivienne Rudd, Mintel: International launches MARKETING 18 a Birgit Huber, IKW; Dr. Gerd Mildau, CVUA: An update on the EC Cosmetics Regulation <22 a Market survey: Packaging Star of the Month: The recreation of a 150 year old fragrance PRODUCTION 30 a Mélanie Waeckel, Dr. Jochen Klock, DSM: Locking in hair color 32 Increased choice of sustainable palm kernel oils 34 Laurie J. Marshall, AkzoNobel: Multi-functional rheology modifier 35 a Gerald Schubert, Schubert Group Germany: Change of tooling by robots Packaging machine carton-packs aerosols 36 Martin Sauter, Optima Consumer: Filler/packer for tubes and bottles 38 Emballage 2014: All to do with packaging 39 Packaging News SERVICES 6 Download List 40 Essential Oils: Price list 42 Formulations: Sprays and more 43 Events Diary 44 Suppliers Guide 48 International B2B Exchange 49 Masthead Page 49 Advertisers Index 50 Trend statement by Diana L. Howard, Ph.D., Dermalogica 50 Preview a Leading articles Front cover picture: Ann Areeya, Shutterstock.com

2 Customers of OPTIMA expect flexibility and assurance. And not only from our machines. Logical. Riccardo Favara Bachelor of Engineering (Sales Manager) For us at Optima Consumer, it is only natural that the responsible salesperson will make a precise picture of the status of a project. Not just from their desk, but directly at the machine. After all, we want you to be in the picture at all times. Because trust isn t everything. It s the only thing. EMBALLAGE, Paris November 2014 Halle 5a Stand F062 OPTIMA consumer GmbH Geschwister-Scholl-Straße Schwaebisch Hall Germany Telefon info@optima-consumer.com Member of

3 SERVICES DOWNLOAD Free Downloads for Subscribers /download ADVERTISEMENT COSSMA Download-Tip in November COSSMA Webinar 11 th of November 2:00 p.m. Formulation Challenge Natural Afro Hair Though formulators face several challenges with the growing trend towards untreated ethnic hair throughout Europe and the U.S., Fana Makonnen from Inolex presents natural alternatives that work. The phenomen of sensitive skin sponsored by Croda + Sederma Register now for free participation /webinar Click through our Web TV clips: /tv photo: Foto: Paul Hakimata Top-Downloads for November COSSMA subscribers can download further background information. Market data: Colour Cosmetics + Make-Up (Euromonitor) Products information: Cosmetic Packaging (Louvrette) Background : References ActiGym (Lipotec) Formulation: Heat Activated Leave-In Conditioning Milk (BayerMaterialScience) photo: Nikolai Sorohin, Fotalia.de Additional information at /download or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for November: User name: cossma11 Password: derma Downloads 6 COSSMA 11I2014

4 NATURA-TEC ABYSOFT TM NATURA-TEC PLANTSIL TM NATURA-TEC PLANTSOFT TM L NATURA-TEC MARINE BLUEVITAL C NATURA-TEC - Art of Nature NATURA-TEC ABYSOFT TM MULTIFUNCTIONAL PERFORMANCE ENHANCER (INCI: Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil Phytosterol Esters); Ultimate skin radiance thanks to deep moisturization, long lasting emollience, perceivable conditioning properties and unique physical behavior. ECOCERT approved. NATURA-TEC PLANTSIL TM BIOMIMETIC AND SILKY EMOLLIENT EXCELLENT ALTERNATIVE TO SILICONE (INCI: Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables); Elegant dry after feel with a rapid penetration and a surprising feeling of volatility. ECOCERT approved. NATURA-TEC PLANTSOFT TM L INTENSIVE MOISTURIZER AND SUBSTANTIVE EMOLLIENT (INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (and) Glyceryl Rosinate (and) Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables); Highly protective with excellent water binding capacity. ECOCERT approved. NATURA-TEC MARINE BLUEVITAL C NEW POWERFUL ANTI-WRINKLE ACTIVE BASED ON MICROALGAE (INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Cylindrotheca Fusiformis Extract); Strongly stimulates production of structural skin proteins. NCD Ingredients GmbH simply good Ulanenplatz Hanau Germany Fon: +49 (0) Fax: +49 (0) info@ncd-ingredients.de

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6 medical BEAUTY FORUM forms the bridge between research and its practical application in the fields of aesthetic medicine and cosmetics For a successful partnership: Covers the current state of knowledge and practice for doctors involved with aesthetic procedures and for beauticians Cosmetology, technology or trophology: Carries in-depth and carefully researched professional knowledge and guidance Published 6 times per annum Reaches more than dermatologists, beauticians and plastic surgeons in Germany, Austria and Switzerland Further information: /medicalbf Click here! Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Geschäftsführer: Jürgen Volpp Registergericht

7 E C O S M E T I C S S P R AY T E C H N O L O GY M A R K E T I N G Ingredients Actives for a flawless complexion Market survey Easy to follow structure: Who supplies what packaging? Product development Total care concept protects coloured hair from fading Packaging Robots reduce format changeover times VIP of the Month Birgit Huber of the IKW and Dr. Gerd Mildau of the CVUA give an update on the new EC Cosmetics Regulation in practice Focus: Cosmeceuticals 11 / w w w. c o s s m a. c o m