GLI ESTRATTI DI PIANTE: DA TUTTO IL MONDO UN SOSTEGNO ALLA BELLEZZA E ALLA SALUTE FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD, PLANT EXTRACTS SUPPORT BEAUTY AND HEALTH

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1 GLI ESTRATTI DI PIANTE: DA TUTTO IL MONDO UN SOSTEGNO ALLA BELLEZZA E ALLA SALUTE FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD, PLANT EXTRACTS SUPPORT BEAUTY AND HEALTH Stefano Togni

2 PROLOGUE Plants for beauty

MORE THAN ONE METABOLISM COMPOUNDS OF PRIMARY METABOLISM Absolutely necessary for life such as: - Energy sources - Genetic material - Proteins - Components of cells membranes

3 MORE THAN ONE METABOLISM COMPOUNDS OF PRIMARY METABOLISM Absolutely necessary for life such as: - Energy sources - Genetic material - Proteins - Components of cells membranes COMPOUNDS OF SECONDARY METABOLISM Molecules not required for the short term functioning of an organism. - Toxic to the animals that eat the plant - Pigments in flowers to attract pollinators

4 MORE THAN ONE METABOLISM: MANY COMPOUNDS! ALKALOIDS COUMARINS caffeine nicotine aesculin TERPENES AND FLAVONOIDS! glycyrrhizin quercetin

5 PROLOGUE PLANTS FOR BEAUTY

6 PROLOGUE UNDERSTANDING OF LIFE «Herbs and plants are medical jewels gracing in the woods, fields and lanes which few eyes see and few minds understand.» Linnaeus ( )

7 INTRODUCTION Hunter-gatherers: empirical observations about plants (food, but also poisons and medicines). Neolithic communities (8,000 to 3,000 years b.c.): domestication of plants and systematic knowledge (emergence of written word)

8 INTRODUCTION Natural products for health care: medicinal plants (V-X cent) Hortus simplicium (ca. 1500) Pharmacognosy is the study of medicines derived from natural sources.

9 EXTRACT DEFINITIONS ACCORDING TO PH. EUR. Standardised extracts: given content of constituents with known therapeutic activity; standardisation achieved by inert material or by blending batches of extracts. Quantified extracts: defined range of constituents; adjustments by blending batches of extracts. Other extracts: defined by their production process and their specifications.

10 ADVANTAGES OF EXTRACTS VS BOTANICAL DRUGS Extracts, unlike botanical drugs (part of plants): - Have a higher amount of active compounds - Allow the removal of toxic or undesired compounds - Have a long shelf life - Offer greater availability - Present a final form easier to manage Drug in pharmacognosy means the part of the plant used it derives from the German word troken = dried

11 EXTRACTION: WHAT IS IT ABOUT? Maceration: the solvent and the drug are put in contact until the saturation balance is reached. Percolation: the drug is treated with fresh solvent until exausted.

12 WHERE DO WE FIND EXTRACTS? Extraction industry for: - Drugs - Food and supplements - Cosmetics/medical devices But also additives, feed, excipients Quality issues, although regulated by different laws in the different sectors, are very similar (contaminants).

13 SKIN BIOLOGY SKIN HYDRATION CONNECTIVE TISSUE PROTECTION ANTI-AGEING SOOTHING, LENITIVE

14 SKIN CARE SKIN HYDRATION XILOGEL ALL IN ONE ANTI- AGEING SERICOSIDE CONNECTIVE TISSUE PROTECTION CENTELLA ASIATICA SOOTHING, LENITIVE BOSEXIL

16 Selected Botanical Actives: XILOGEL and XILOGEL HS MOISTURIZERS SKIN HYDRATION

17 XILOGEL : OVERVIEW Tamarind is one of the most beautiful trees in South East of Asia. Its young pods are used for nutrition and for manufacturing spices (e.g. Worcester sauce). Used in Ayurvedic Medicine for gastric and digestive problems.

18 XILOGEL : OVERVIEW The seed of tamarind has a high content of polysaccharide: Xyloglucan (branched) around 600 kda MW A novel film-forming and moistureregulating polysaccharide

19 XILOGEL : THE EFFICACY Study: Hydrating, Elasticizing, Anti-age and re-densifying efficacy Experimental model 0.5% vs. Hyaluronic acid (MW mioda); 20 female volunteers for 4 weeks + immediate hydration measurement at 30 min Measured parameters Results Hydration (Corneometric units), Elasticity, Roughness (3D digital imaging) and ecogenicity (density) Hydration: +59.2% (immediate); +35.8% (long-term) Overall elasticity: +19.4%; Average roughness: -27.6%; Maximum roughness: -21.3%; Density improved by +7.9%;

20 XILOGEL : HYDRATION *** p<0.001 Na Hyluronate Xilogel 28,2 *** 28,3 *** +59,2% +55% 44 44,9 +35,8% 38,3 +37,1% 38, C.U. T0 T30min Tf

21 XILOGEL : WRINKLES Skin Roughness Subject 14 T0 Skin Roughness Subject 14 Tf T0 Tf

22 XILOGEL : SKIN DENSITY Skin Density Subject 6 T0 Skin Density Subject 6 Tf Intensity of the ecogenic band (density): 0%= black - 100%= white

23 Selected Botanical Actives: SERICOSIDE ANTI AGEING ALL IN ONE ANTIAGEING COUNTERACTING THE MOST VISIBLE SIGNS OF AGEING

24 TERMINALIA SERICEA: BOTANY AND SUSTAINABILITY T. Sericea is endemic mostly to Tanzania and Congo. Tall from 9 to 23 meters. Woodland obtained by geodatabases.

25 TERMINALIA SERICEA: BOTANY AND SUSTAINABILITY Improves the soil quality. Favourable to a general balance of the environment. Indena is committed to sustainability by the proprietary SuSo program. SuSo means Sustainable Sourcing (environmental, social and ethical aspects).

26 SERICOSIDE: HISTORY AND FACTS INCI NAME: Sericoside OR Terminalia sericea Bark/Root extract Sericoside is a pure molecule obtained by Terminalia sericea. The adjective sericea, in ancient Latin, means silky, smooth as silk. In traditional medicine, both leaves and roots have been used as a remedy for stomach ailments and a concoction of the roots for to heal wounds.

27 SERICOSIDE: THE EFFICACY Study: Experimental model Measured parameters Indications Results Evaluation of the anti-ageing and skin toning effect Volunteers required to apply a sericoside containing formula twice daily for 4 weeks (40 volunteers, 0.5% vs. blank). Redensification and anti sagging; under eye bags; dark circles; skin texture; anti-wrinkle All in one anti-ageing. Anti wrinkles, skin texture, refreshed look. See next

28 Wrinkles Eye bags Dark circles Texture Redensification

29 R2 SERICOSIDE: REDENSIFYING (ANTI-SAGGING) TONICITY (R2) +19.8% 0,7 0,68 * Blank Sericoside 0.5% 0,66 0,64 0,62 0,6 0,58 0,56 0,54 T0 T30 *p<0.05

30 SERICOSIDE: EYE BAGS T0-20mm 3 T30

31 SERICOSIDE: SKIN TEXTURE T0 T30 Skin surface topography

33 Selected Botanical Actives: CENTELLA ASIATICA DERIVATIVES CONNECTIVE TISSUE PROTECTION CONNECTIVE TISSUE PROTECTION

34 CENTELLA DERIVATIVES Centella has been widely used both in Indian ayurvedic medicine and as a traditional herbal medicine in Asia and India. The traditional medicine of Madagascar has used for immemorial time for wound healing. Centella triterpenes strongly stimulate collagen synthesis. Centella leaves from Madagascar are the most reliable source (constant quality and high content of active principles).

35 CENTEVITA : ACTIVE COMPOUNDS 45.0% as asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic and madecassic acids 7.5% of the remaining part: biologically active polyphenols Asiaticoside Madecassoside Asiatic acid Madecassic acid

36 CENTEVITA : EFFICACY IN VITRO Study: Experimental model Measured parameters Results Anti-glycation on human skin explants Human skin explants; glycation induced by methylglyoxal in culture medium. Centevita applied at 1% General cells morphology; N-Carboxy-Methyl-Lysine (CML) immunostaining (microscopical observation) A total inhibition of carboxymethyl lysine induced by methylglyoxal; clear increase of the collagen network density in the papillary dermis.

37 CENTEVITA : INHIBITION OF GLYCATION MG batch on day 8 Control batch on day 0 Centevita + MG batch on day 8

38 CENTEVITA : COLLAGEN SYNTHESIS Untreated Centevita A clear densification of collagen network in the papillary dermis

39 CENTEVITA : CLINICAL EFFICACY Study: Experimental model Anti-ageing activity vs. placebo Volunteers (20), Centevita 0.5% O/W emulsion, 6 weeks. Measured parameters Results Anti ageing by replica analysis; firming and elasticity by Cutometer; collagen density by siascope. Collagen redensification observed in 70% of volunteers (p<0.05), tendential improvement of wrinkles appearance, significant improvement in skin elasticity and firmness.

40 Selected Botanical Actives: BOSEXIL SOOTHING ANTI-INFLAMMATORY, ANTI-IRRITANT

41 BOSEXIL : HISTORY AND FACTS From Boswellia serrata, Frankincense is associated to religious ceremonies in both Judaism and Christianity. Its use was reintroduced in Europe by the Franks Crusaders (Frankincense). The resin is also known as olibanum, from the Arabic al-lubān ( the result of milking ).

42 BOSEXIL : THE BOSWELLIC ACID ALPHABET a b K The six boswellic acids accounting for the large majority of BA compounds in Bosexil. βboswellic acid (βba), Acetyl βboswellic acid (AcβBA) are the most abundant in Bosexil.

43 BOSEXIL : THE CLINICAL EFFICACY Study: Experimental model Measured parameters Results Single blind instrumental evaluation of the lenitive and recovery properties of Bosexil on mechanical, physical (UV) and chemical skin damages 20 volunteers per challenge, test substance (1% O/W emulsion) vs. placebo TEWL; skin redness; skin blood micro-flow See next

P.U. (Perfusion Units) BOSEXIL TM : SOOTHING ON UV DAMAGE MICRO-FLOW 75 ** 70 65 60 55 50 72.61 BASAL * 55.20 Bosexil TM Placebo *p<0.05 **p<0.01 45 40 45.

44 P.U. (Perfusion Units) BOSEXIL TM : SOOTHING ON UV DAMAGE MICRO-FLOW 75 ** BASAL * Bosexil TM Placebo *p<0.05 **p< T0 T24 T48 T72 T96 Bosexil : microflow reduction by 32.2% (p<0.05) at T48 (close to basal value before UV challenge).

Angel Yeast Cosmetic Ingredients

Angel Yeast Cosmetic Ingredients Carboxymethyl yeast beta-glucan(cmg) C90... 2 Yeast Extract E100... 5 Yeast Nucleotides N80... 8 Zinc-enriched Yeast Extract Z20...11-1 - Carboxymethyl yeast beta-glucan(cmg)