strengthen hair from the inside

Transcription

1 strengthen hair from the inside fiberhance solution superior hair strengthening from the inside Everyone wants to have strong, healthy, manageable hair but the effects of modern living take their toll on hair. Factors such as aging, increased use of modern appliances such as hot irons and blow-dryers, and the universal trend of coloring hair, all contribute to damage and weakness to the hair fibers. As such, the hair-strengthening market is growing rapidly as science begins to find the answers to combatting hair weakening, thinning and breaking. Historically, most solutions for weak hair have involved ingredients which act primarily at the surface with limited penetration. These have included various forms of proteins, keratin derivatives and some vitamins and natural oils. solution is a new patented chemistry to be included in the arsenal of ingredients for hair strengthening. Evolving from glucose-based chemistry, it has a unique multifaceted mode of action which penetrates deep into the cortex to create new hydrogen and ionic bonds which support the damaged internal keratin structure and strengthen and provide manageability back to the hair. INCI: Hydroxypropyl gluconamide and hydroxypropyl ammonium gluconate typical properties property Appearance Odor Total solids, % ph at 25 C Brookfield Viscosity, cps (RVT, sp4,10 RPM at 25 C) measurement Clear to pale colored Characteristic <50 cps chemical structure HO OH HO OH OH CAS number: O N H CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 O what is weak hair? Weak hair is where the inner structure of the hair has been compromised, with its bonds and linkages broken or damaged. There can be a range of reasons for hair to weaken and thin aging, heat or chemical treatments, or simply the environment. The only effective long-term solution is to repair and restore, or replace, the internal structure of the hair.

2 mode of action The α-helix protein structure in the hair fiber provides the strength to the hair. In weak hair the bonds are broken and missing. solution is a small molecule in which the chemical structure and dimensions have been specifically designed to optimize multi-bond interactions within the hair keratin cortex and as such builds new bonds within and across the structure (dual mechanisms). within the α helix between the α helix HO OH OH HO OH O key features and benefits features Unique, new to the world, innovative patented ingredient which strengthens internal hair structure up to 3X that of untreated hair. Works by creating additional hydrogen and ionic bonds within the hair keratin structure. Penetrates deep into the hair fiber to the cortex and restores hair fiber strength back to levels of virgin hair. Cost effective. Supplied as 50% solution. Good sustainability footprint. Works in hair color process systems. benefits New claims such as new technology, unique, builder provide opportunity to capture share of strengthening sector of market. New multifunctional mechanism of action, optimized to interact at the molecular level. Very few technologies can claim inner strengthening functionality, this technology is superior. Replaces higher cost alternatives. Enables easy manufacturing, lowers production costs. Natural origin, zero-waste green manufacturing process. Enter fast growing builder segment in hair care. 2

3 fiberhance provides superior inner strengthening of hair in s solution provides up to 3X strengthening of untreated hair across various degrees of damage solution provides >3X strengthening of untreated hair across various hair types survival property (%) Caucasian virgin Caucasian bleached 2x Caucasian bleached 2x + 2% as is Caucasian bleached 3x Caucasian bleached 3x + 2% as is survival property (%) Afro hair virgin Afro hair virgin + 2% as is Caucasian virgin Caucasian virgin + 2% as is Chinese virgin Chinese virgin + 2% as is ,000 10,000 15,000 20,000 25,000 30,000 number of cycles to break 0 0 5,000 10,000 15,000 20,000 25,000 30,000 number of cycles to break Cyclic tensile fatigue on single hair fiber measures the number of cycle to break under controlled stress mode. The higher the number, the stronger the hair. Done on a 2% as is solution, ph4 adjusted, 50% RH, 23 C, n=40-50 fibers, constant stress mode g/µ m 2, CYC801 DiaStron. fiberhance solution penetrates into the hair fiber as measured by FTIR < treated < control 2X bleached, treated with solution (soaked 2% as is solution then washed). Intensity map of band 1400 cm 1 by FTIR. Increased band intensity at 1400 cm 1 was observed in treated hair cross sections. The FTIR intensity is normalized by protein content, red corresponds to highest intensity (or level of ), and blue corresponds to lowest intensity (or absence of ).

4 fiberhance formulations really work! (When tested with a fully formulated solution compared to hair strengthening benchmark Panthenol Performance is maintained even after ceasing use. ref Z351-18H*) number of cycles to break number of cycles to break fiberhance out-performs competitive technologies % active Panthenol 0 + 1% active Shampoo with washed 1x Shampoo with additional 5 min contact time (to mimic 5x washes) Rinsed for 5 min contact time (to mimic 5x washes) Rinsed for additional 5 min (to mimic 5x additional washes) fiberhance formulations help to reduce hair breakage Seen as fewer fibers after multiple washes. 1X 2X 3X 4X 6X 7X 14 4

5 a new measurement of damage using FTIR equivalent damage factor (EDF) asymmetric S=O stretch symmetric S=O stretch in cysteic acid 2x bleached 1x bleached virgin a new plex for hair coloring treatments commercial color kit for retail #1 professional retail #2 professional retail #3 EDF EDF EDF Before coloring After coloring After coloring (added market leader to mix) After coloring (added solution to mix) Hair used/mix concentration 1x Bleached Caucasian Hair, 20 g color cream, 20 g developer, 5 g additive 1x Bleached Caucasian Hair, 6 g cream, 6 g developer, 2 g additive Caucasian Hair, 6 g cream, 6 g developer, 2 g additive solution reduces damage during coloring process lower EDF values = less damage

6 formulations supported by Ashland intensity premium hair strengthening s (Z351-18A) ingredients (Trade Name) INCI name % w/w supplier phase A Deionized Water Aqua ad 100% Local N-Hance 3196 conditioning polymer Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.20 Ashland Citric Acid Citric Acid 0.05 Local Betadet HR (30%) Cocamidopropyl Betaine 6.67 Kao Emal 228D (28%) Sodium Laureth Sulfate Kao Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (95%) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 6.32 Local phase B Deionized Water Aqua Local Ashland 980 Carbomer Carbomer 0.40 Ashland Citric Acid Citric Acid 0.05 Local phase C Ceraphyl 60 ester Quaternium Ashland Ceraphyl 41 ester C12-15 Alkyl Lactate 0.15 Ashland Belsil ADM 8301E Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane,Trideceth-5, Glycerin 1.00 Wacker Xiameter MEM 1788 Dimethiconol (and) TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate 1.80 Xiameter Optiphen 200 preservative Phenoxyethanol and Caprylyl Glycol 1.00 Ashland Lamesoft Care PEG-4 Distearyl Ether (and) Sodium Laureth sulfate (and) Distearyl Ether (and) Dicaprylyl Ether 2.00 BASF Euperlan PK 3000 Glycerol Distearate, Laureth-4, Cocamidopropyl Betaine 3.00 BASF Solution Hydroxypropyl Gluconamide and Hydroxypropyl Ammonium Gluconate 1.00 Ashland Perfume Petal Blanche Parfum 0.50 Firmenich phase D Citric Acid Citric Acid 0.05 Local Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride 0.1 Local total * Trademark owned by a third party procedure 1. Phase A: Disperse the N-Hance 3196 in water and mix until lump-free. 2. Add citric acid and mix until fully hydrated. 3. Phase B: Disperse the carbomer in water and citric acid until lump-free and add to Phase A. 4. Phase C: Add the ingredients in order with good stirring. 5. Add surfactants in the right order. 6. Phase D: Adjust the ph with sodium hydroxide 33% and sodium chloride to the desired ph and viscosity. typical properties Stability: Pass 12 weeks at 45 C Appearance: Creamy viscous liquid ph: Viscosity: 6,000 9,000 mpa s Brookfield LVT Spindle #3, 12 RPM, 1 min at 25 C This formula has passed 3 M stability test at 45 C and 28-day double challenge efficacy test. However, the preservative system has not been optimized to its lowest effective level. 6

7 formulations supported by Ashland resilience clear strengthening for fine hair (Z351-10L) ingredients (Trade Name) INCI name % w/w supplier phase A Deionized Water Aqua a.d.100% Local Disodium EDTA Disodium EDTA 0.05 Local ClearHance C conditioning polymer Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.20 Ashland Emal 228D (28%) Sodium Laureth Sulfate Kao Betadet HR (30%) Cocamidopropyl Betaine 8.00 Kao Plantacare 818 Coco Glucoside 0.50 BASF phase B Ceraphyl 41 ester C12-15 Alkyl Lactate 0.10 Ashland Escalol 577 uv filter Benzophenone Ashland Optiphen 200 preservative Phenoxyethanol and Caprylyl Glycol 0.60 Ashland phase C Perfume Petal Blanche Parfum 0.50 Firmenich Solution Hydroxypropyl Gluconamide and Hydroxypropyl Ammonium Gluconate 1.00 Ashland Zenix 4617 surfactant Oleth-5 Phosphate 1.50 Ashland phase D Citric Acid (50%) Citric Acid 0.05 Local Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride 0.50 Local total * Trademark owned by a third party procedure 1. Phase A: Add ingredients in order while mixing. Mix until fully dissolved. 2. Phase B: Dissolve the Escalol 577 in the Ceraphyl 41 and the Optiphen 200 mixture and add to Phase A. 3. Phase C: Add ingredients to the main mix in order while mixing. 4. Phase D: Add Citric Acid/Sodium Hydroxide to ph and Sodium Chloride to the right viscosity. typical properties Stability: Pass 12 weeks at 45 C Appearance: Clear ph: Viscosity: 6,000 9,000 mpa s Brookfield LVT Spindle #3, 12 RPM, 1 min at 25 C This formula has passed 3 M stability test at 45 C and 28-day double challenge efficacy test. However, the preservative system has not been optimized to its lowest effective level. References Patents: WO/ A1 US 2017/ A1 Scientific publication: Strengthening the hair fiber from within: repairing the cortex of damaged hair IFSCC Journal 3 (2016),

8 REGIONAL CENTERS North America Bridgewater, NJ USA Tel: Europe Switzerland Tel: India Maharashtra Tel: Asia Pacific Singapore Tel: Middle East, Africa Dubai, U.A.E. Tel: Latin America Mexico Tel: ashland.com/pchaircare Registered trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries Trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries 2017, Ashland / PHC The information contained in this brochure and the various products described are intended for use only by persons having technical skill and at their own discretion and risk after they have performed necessary technical investigations, tests and evaluations of the products and their uses. Certain end uses of these products may be regulated pursuant to rules or regulations governing medical devices, drug uses, or pesticidal or antimicrobial uses. It is the end user s responsibility to determine the applicability of such regulations to its products. All statements, information, and data presented herein are believed to be accurate and reliable, but are not to be taken as a guarantee of fitness for a particular purpose, or representation, express or implied, for which seller assumes legal responsibility. No freedom to use any patent owned by Ashland, its subsidiaries, or its suppliers is to be inferred.