LITERATURE LIST 12/06

Transcription

1 Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH Mathias-Brüggen-Str.91 D Köln Phone Fax info@courage-khazaka.de Website: LITERATURE LIST H. Schaefer, Kuhn-Bussius, Methodik zur quantitativen Bestimmung der menschlichen Talgsekretion, Arch. klin. exp. Derm. 238/1970, Bei Milchglas nimmt die Lichtdurchlässigkeit durch Aufdruck kleiner Fettmengen stark zu. Diese Transmissionszunahme kann photometrisch erfaßt und durch Wägung des abgenommenen Fettes auf der Mikrowaage geeicht werden. Sie ist daher zur quantitativen Bestimmung des Hautüberflächenfettes geeignet. Durch vergleichende Messung mit bekannten, auf die Stirn aufgetragenen Vaselinmengen sind Rückschlüsse auf den Fettfilm und damit die Talgdrüsenfunktion menschlicher Haut möglich. Eine ins einzelne gehende Testbeschreibung wird am Schluß der Arbeit gegeben. M. Gloor, U. Schulz, G.Wieland, I.Wieland, H.C.Friedrich, Beitrag zur quantitativen Bestimmung der Hautoberflächenlipide in der Praxis, Dermatologica Es wird über Bestimmungen der Menge der Hautoberflächenlipide (casual level und replacement sum) mit Hilfe des Osmiumsäuretest nach Brun et al. an 33 Versuchspersonen und mit Hilfe des Milchglastests nach Schäfer und Kuhn-Bussius an 14 Versuchspersonen berichtet. An der symmetrischen Körperstelle wurden jeweils exakte gravimetrische Lipidbestimmungen nach der Methode von Honsig vorgenommen. Zusätzlich wurde die Zusammensetzung der Hautoberflächenlipide dünnschichtchromatographisch analysiert. Im Gegensatz zum Milchglastest erwies sich der Osmiumsäuretest als aussagekräftig. Die Zusammensetzung der Hautoberflächenlipide beeinflußt das Ergebnis beider Methoden nur wenig. Tronnier, Brunn, Vergleichsuntersuchungen des Hautoberflächenfettes Hautgesunder und Aknekranker, Berufsdermatosen, 79-88, 1972 Mit Hilfe einer aus Säulen-, Dünnschicht und Gaschromatographie sowie IR-Spektroskopie kombinierten Methode wurde eine Vollanalyse der Hautoberflächenlipide bei Aknekranken im Vergleich zu hautgesunden Kontrollpersonen durchgeführt. Aus den Mittelwerten von je 5 Probanden ergab sich: 1. Die Menge der Oberflächenlipide ist bei der Akne gering erhöht. 2. Bei der Auftrennung in die einzelnen Fraktionen waren in der Kontrollgruppe u.a. die Triglyzeride, bei der Akne dagegen die freien Fettsäuren vermindert. 3. Die Verteilungen im übrigen entsprachen unter Berücksichtigung methodischer Unterschiede den Angaben in der Literatur. 4. Die möglichen Auswirkungen der gefundenen Differenzen auf die Pathogenese der Akne bezüglich der Gesamtverteilung auf die Fraktionen (z.b. Spreitung) und der Kettenlänge (z.b. Reizwirkung) werden erwähnt. Tronnier, Methodisches zum Nachweis des Hauttalgs unter besonderer Berücksichtigung der Akne, Vortrag anläßlich der Tagung der Gesellschaft Deutscher Kosmetik-Chemiker e.v., Die Problematik der Hautfettbestimmung wird beschrieben, die in der uneinheitlichen Zusammensetzung, in der unterschiedlichen Lokalisation und in der verschieden vollständigen Gewinnung des Hauttalgs begründet ist. Vor - und Nachteile der verschiedenen Methoden werden, teilweise unter Heranziehung eigener Versuche, dargestellt. Von den drei für die Seborrhoe und die 12/06

2 Erkrankungen des seborrhoischen Formenkreises in Frage kommenden Störungen im Hauttalgsystem, nämlich in der Menge, in der Zusammensetzung und im physikalischen Verhalten des Talgfilms auf der Hautoberfläche, scheint letzterem die wesentlichste Rolle zuzukommen. Dies konnte aus zahlreichen Untersuchungen einerseits bei der Akne und anderseits bei der Seborrhoe abgeleitet werden. Auf die Bedeutung des Verhältnisses von Talgmenge zur Spreitungsfähigkeit für die Ausbildung von Comedonen bei Akne wird anhand vergleichender Talguntersuchungen mit verschiedenen Methoden und unter Glucocorticoid-Medikation hingewiesen. Die bei Akne vorliegende Störung in dieser Relation wird an weiteren experimentellen Befunden erörtert. Tronnier, H.Kuhn-Bussius, Zur Brauchbarkeit optischer Methoden für die Bestimmung des Hautoberflächenfettes, Hautklinik Dortmund, Kosmetologie 06/1974 F. Greiter, S. Doskoczil, Forschung in der Kosmetik, Österreichische Chemie-Zeitschrift, Juni 1976 Diese Arbeit ist ein Versuch, sinnvolle Forschung in der Kosmetik zu beschreiben und zu begründen. Nur neuere Methoden werden beschrieben. Bekannte Prüfungsverfahren einschließlich Spektralphotometrie und Gaschromatographie dürfen als üblich vorausgesetzt werden. Spezieller Wert wird auf das Gebiet des Sonnenschutzes gelegt. Auch die Notwendigkeit besonderer Emulsionsformen wird behandelt. Es wird daran erinnert, daß die Kosmetik nicht nur die Aufgabe des Schmückens (Kosmein), sondern vor allem auch der Reinigung, der Pflege und des Schutzes der Haut hat. Es wird ausgeführt, daß kosmetische Präparate, die zum Teil im Grenzbereich Kosmetik-Pharmazie liegen, einen Beitrag zur Fitneßbewegung leisten können. Es wird allerdings auch unmißverständlich dargelegt, daß Irreführung in der Kosmetik abzulehnen ist und eine weit gehende Deklaration der Kosmetikpräparate notwendig erscheint. Nur die Werbung geht glatt unter die Haut, Test 01/1978 Tronnier, Differenzierte Feuchtigkeitsmessungen an der menschlichen Haut, Ärzliche Kosmetologie 308, 1980 Differentiated moisture measurements on human skin are carried out by means of the demonstration of resonance frequency measurements, resistance measurements and condensor methods. Furthermore, the importance of applying the appropriate base in therapy and cosmetics depending on the individual hydration condition is demonstrated. Tronnier, Meßmethoden zur Prüfung kosmetischer Präparate und Grundstoffe, Parfümerie und Kosmetik 61, 1980 D. St Léger, J.L. Leveque, Les méthodes quantitatives des lipides de surface chez l homme, International journal of cosmetic science, 1980 Three main methods to measure quantitatively surface lipids in man have been used. A comparison of the information they produce and their routine practicabilities are given. Adaptation and standardization of the Schaeffer and Kuhn-Bussius method, using a photoelectric absorptiometer and ground glass plates are described. This procedure, applied to thirty-two adults, demonstrated the quantitative nature of the sampling mechanism. A mathematical approach gives the precise definition of the casual-level. This procedure shows that casual-level values appear to be correlated with skin types. J.B. Dawson, D.J. Barker, D.J. Ellis, E. Grassam, J.A. Cotterill, G.W. Fisher, and J.W. Feather, A theoretical and experimental study of light absorption and scattering by in vivo skin, Vol.25.No.4, , Phys.Med.Biol A theoretical treatment has been developed for the optical properties of a layered structure which absorbs and scatters light. This theory predicts that the logarithm of the inverse of reflectance (LIR) of the surface should be a useful parameter for the examination of that structure. This approach has been H\litlist\studies 12/06 2

3 applied to a study of skin in vivo. An instrument was constructed for use in clinical situations to measure the LIR spectrum of skin over the visible region of the spectrum ( nm). The contributions to the observed spectra made by pigments and the skin structure were deduced by reference to the theoretical model. Numerical indices were used to quantify the changes in skin haemoglobin content following the application of vasoconstricting preparations. Schrader, Untersuchungen wasserretinierender Kosmetika auf der Haut, Parfümerie und Kosmetik 62, 1981 Mit dem Corneometer zur Bestimmung der aktuellen Feuchtigkeit der oberen Hautschichten gelingt es, kosmetische Produkte auf ihren Hydratationseffekt - besonders im Stratum Corneum- zu überprüfen. Für diese Untersuchungen wurden eine W/O-Emulsion, eine O/W-Emulsion sowie ein Gesichtswasser herangezogen, die zugleich mit einem entsprechenden Wirkstoff der Haut auch Wasser zuführen. Es wurden alternativ geprüft - neben dem jeweiligen Placebo: Harnstoff, Desamidokollagen, Natriumsalz der Pyrrolidoncarbonsäure und Kollagenhydrolysat. Der Effekt bei einigen Wirkstoffen zeigt auch bei 120 Minuten nach der Applikation noch deutlich erhöhte Werte gegenüber der Kontrolle, während bei anderen eine Exsikkation gemessen wurde. Die Resultate dieser Prüfungen lassen weitere Untersuchungen mit anderen Wirkstoffen sinnvoll erscheinen. S. Dikstein, Instrumental Analysis in Individual Cosmetic Consultation, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 98, Nov K. Zeller, H. Huben, Sebumetrische Messungen des Casual Level der Hautoberflächenlipide bei einem studentischen und einem geriatrischen Kollektiv hautgesunder Probanden, Aktuelle Dermatologie, Juni 1983 Für dermatologische Reihenuntersuchungen wäre es wünschenswert, die in der Regel makroskopische Einschätzung des seborrhoischen oder sebostatischen Hautstatus mittels eines einfachen, leicht transportablen Meßgerätes objektivieren zu können. Es wurde daher an zwei altersunterschiedlichen Probandengruppen (223 Junioren, 116 Senioren) untersucht, ob mit einem neuen reflexphotometrischen sog. Sebumeter eine quantitative Untersuchung bezüglich des Hautoberflächenfettfilmes möglich ist. Das Gerät erwies sich vor allem im Hinblick auf eine semiquantitative Objektivierung des exsikkativen oder sebostastischen Hornschichtstatus brauchbar. Darüber hinaus wurden auch Geschlechtsunterschiede ermittelt. Anwendungsmöglichkeiten bestehen bei Einstellungsuntersuchungen für ekzemgefährdete Feuchtberufe (z.w. Friseure, Maurer, Stukkateure) sowie zur Früherkennung der sog. Alterssebostase. Dikstein, Shabtay,Orgad, Distribution of sebum measurement in normal adult women, 4 th International Symposium on Bioengin. & The Skin, 09/83 Simon, Cosmetic effect in relation to hydration of the skin proved by changed electric conductivity, Ärztliche Kosmetologie, ,1984 Several skin care products have been investigated. The skin resistance was measured with a dermotest apparatus. Computer processing revealed that complex cosmetic treatment causes a decrease of skin resistance (i.e. an increase of the skin hydratation) as compared to the control side.the results are supported by the opinions of the treated subjects. U. Huschka, A. Schulewsky, Hauttalgsekretion und Haarshampoos, Ärztliche Kosmetologie, 1984 Mit insgesamt 1520 Messungen wurde an 20 Probanden der Einfluß von vier Haarshampoos, die unterschiedliche Antischuppenwirkstoffe enthielten, auf die Rückfettung der behaarten Kopfhaut und der Stirn sebumetrisch mit der Kunststoffbandmethode untersucht. Im Gegensatz zu anderen Berichten war bei 85% unserer Probanden der Ausgangsfettspiegel auf der behaarten Kopfhaut nach der Wäsche innerhalb von 24 Stunden wieder erreicht; die vollständige Rückfettung der Stirn erfolgte bei 90% der Probanden zwischen 2 und 5 Stunden. Die Änderung der Rückfettung war durch Fettmessungen im kinetischen Bereich nach 2, nach 5 und 24 Stunden wesentlich empfindlicher bestimmbar als im Steady-state nach 72 Stunden. Die nach den ersten Haarwäschen einsetzende Änderung der Rückfettungsgeschwindigkeit verstärkte sich über mindestens 3 Wochen und war erst nach diesem H\litlist\studies 12/06 3

4 Zeitpunkt eindeutig bewertbar. 0,6% Pyrithiondisulfid führte zu leicht verstärkter Rückfettung, 0,2% Pyrithiondisulfid mit 7% Dinatriumundecylensäuremonoäthanolamidosulfosuccinat war neutral, eher sebostatisch wirksam, 0,5% Octopirox führte zur Verstärkung der Rückfettung. Am behaarten Kopf und an der Stirn war die Wirkung der Inhaltsstoffe in der Regel gleichgerichtet. Werner, The water content of the stratum corneum in patients with atopic dermatitis, Acta Derm Venereol 66: , 1984 M. Gloor, M. Gehse, E. Wölfle, Beeinflussung der Hornschichtfeuchtigkeit durch waschaktive Substanzen, Ärztliche Kosmetologie, 15/1985 Bei 32 hautgesunden Versuchspersonen wurde der Wassergehalt der Hornschicht vor und nach Anwendung einer 3-bzw.6%igen Tensidlösung (3mal täglich über 4 Tage) bestimmt. Bei weiteren 20 gesunden Versuchspersonen wurde die gleiche Untersuchung mit einer 3-bzw 6%igen Seifenlösung vorgenommen. Die Messungen erfolgten mit Hilfe der Infrarotspektroskopie und der Kapazitätsmessung der Hornschicht. Eindeutig war mit beiden Methoden ein Dehydratationseffekt sowohl durch die Seife als auch durch die Tensidlösung nachweisbar, der bei der Tensidlösung quantitativ weitgehend unabhängig von der Konzentration der waschaktiven Substanzen war, bei der Seifenlösung jedoch bei der 6%-Lösung weniger ausgeprägt als bei der 3% Lösung. In der zweiten Stunde nach der letzten Waschung kam es nach Anwendung der Tensidlösung zu einem deutlichen Rehydratationseffekt, der nach Anwendung der Seife nicht in gleichem Ausmaß zu beobachten war. Der Rehydratationseffekt war unabhängig von der Konzentration der waschaktiven Substanz. Beim Vergleich der Methoden erwies sich der Rehydratationseffekt als eindrucksvoller, wenn man die infrarotspektroskopischen Meßwerte zugrunde legte. Wie infrarotspektroskopische Untersuchungen nach Strippen der Haut zeigen, erstreckt sich die Dehydratation der Hornschicht nur auf deren oberflächlichste Anteile. Dikstein, Courage, Verteilung von Talgspiegelmessungen bei gesunden erwachsenen Frauen, Ärztliche Kosmetologie, 15, 41-44, 1985 The sebumeter measures the amount of fats on the skin by absorbing it onto a thin plastic strip and measuring its transparency. The range of values relevant to medicocosmetics was established by asking experienced cosmeticians to define and classify the skin of over 150 women according to Dry (insufficient sebum level), Normal or Oily. The skin was then measured by Sebumeter % agreement is present between the cosmetician s definition of Dry or Oily skin at the extremes, but in the middle the definition is casual. Tabulating the data into histograms permits in finding the best balance between the subjective cosmetic definition and the instrumental reading. On the forehead, Sebumetric readings of less than 90, and on the cheek and neck readings of less than 60 mean Dry skin. Sebumetric readings of more than 200 on the forehead, more than 160 on the cheek, and more than 100 on the neck, mean Oily skin. The advantage of using objective instrumental readings in place of observational methods is the prevention of misdiagnoses. de Pedova, Tosti, Veronesi, Gelatin-Cystine in Seborrheic Alopecia, J. Appl. Cosmetol /1986 The gelatin-cystine spherules seem to be able to affect the regulation of sebum genesis. In the order to demonstrate the sebum normalizing property performed by this product, a study was carried out on 60 subjects affected by seborrheic alopecia. A signifiant reduction of seborrhea was observed in 30% of the subjects taking the gelatin-cystine spherules for the period established. It was also observed a significant reduction of serine, proline, glycine, alanine, ½ cystine, valine, leucine and methionine is always found and a parallel increase of glutamin acid, phenilalanine and argine. Morganti, Randazzo, Cardillo, Role of insoluble and soluble collagen as skin moisturizer, J. Appl. Cosmetol /1986 The normal state of skin hydration depends mainly on the water content present at the stratum corneum level. In order to evaluate the water-binding property of soluble and insoluble animal collagen, and in order to compare its abilities in cutaneous hydratation, both the long and short-term water-binding capacity of human skin was tested in vivo. First data shows that the presence of soluble native collagen is indispensable in order to obtain a long-lasting hydrating effect. H\litlist\studies 12/06 4

5 Dikstein, Katz, Maibach, Instruments for measuring stratum corneum moisture content, International Journal of Science, , 1986, 8 P. Thune, T. Gustavsen, Comparison of two photoelectric techniques for quantitative measurement of skin surface lipids, Acta Derm Venerol 1987 Zlotogorski, Distribution of skin surface ph on the forehead and cheek of adults, Arch Derm Res, 1987 The skin surface ph on the forehead and cheek of 574 men and women aged 18/95 was measured. No differences were found between men and women regarding forehead and cheek ph distribution. The group over the age of 80 showed higher ph values on both the forehead and the cheek. In 89% of the subjects measured, the skin surface ph on the cheek was higher than on the forehead. The central 90%, i.e., the representative range, for the population below the age of 80 is between on the forehead and between on the cheek. Tronnier, Dermatologische Bewertung von Kosmetika und Körperpflegemitteln, Ärztliche Kosmetologie, , 1987 The practitioning dermatologist is interested in body care products and cosmetics because of their potential side-effects which may be allergic or primarily toxic. In view of skin physiology also cosmetics and body care products having special effects, such as light and skin protective preparations, deodorants and antiperspirants, dandruff and hair removing products, washing products and preparations which are supposed to have an anti-wrinkle effect on the skin, are of interest to the dermatologist. These preparations claiming a certain effect are opposed to the series of cosmetics which to some extent also make this claim, but on the whole have general effects such as improvement of the hydration of the horny layer and influence on the ph-value of the skin effects which, however, are also assigned to some special products. These preparations contain a number of active substances the effects of which are at least controversial and often difficult to prove. So, it is pointed out to the fact that just in case of body care products and cosmetics the effect of the basic substances used is essentially responsible for the effects of care. E. Berardesca, G. Borrini, G. Gabba, R. Borlone and G. Rabbiosi, Evidence for Elastic Changes in Agend Skin Revealed in an In Vivo Extensometric Study at Low Loads. Bioengineeing Skin 1986 An in vivo extensometric study of skin for different age groups is described. Seventy nine healthy male subjects entered the study. They were classified into six age groups (19 years and under, 20 to 29, 30 to 39, 40 to 49, 50 to 59, 60 and over). Measurements were taken on the unexposed forearm at a very low load (7.8 N) with a specially built extensometer. Highly significant (P < ) increasing levels were recorded among the age groups. The authors discuss the relationship between the data and ageing changes in the elastic fibre network, suggesting that this method may be useful in monitoring wrinkling. Dikstein, Comparison of the Sebumeter and the Lipometer, Bioeng. Skin, , 3, 1987 Die Instrumente Lipometer und Sebumeter wurden durch gleichzeitige Messungen der zufälligen Lipidwerte an nebeneinander liegenden Stellen derselben Person verglichen. Der Koeffizient der Bestimmung zwischen den Instrumenten ist 92%. Das Sebumeter ist geeigneter für die Messungen eines raschen Screenings. Korting, Bau, Baldauf, ph-abhängigkeit des Wachstumsverhaltens von Staphylococcus aureus und Propionibacterium acnes, Ärztliche Kosmetologie,01/02/1987 Five different cutaneous isolates of staphylococcus aureus and seven of propionibacterium acnes were investigated in a buffered liquid medium with respects to the dependence of their growth on different ph-values kept constant. With both species a strong dependence of the growth rate on the ph-value was found. The S. aureus strains showed a distinct value of optimum of growth at ph 7.5 with P. acnes a range of optimum growth could be determined between ph 6.0 and 6.5. The conclusion can be drawn that even minor shifts of the skin ph from its normal value of 5.5 towards more alkaline values- H\litlist\studies 12/06 5

6 as they result from washings with soaps- remarkably enhance the growth of P. acnes while a similar phenomenon could only be expected from major shifts with respects to S. aureus. Muti, Barrico, Berino, Gelentano, Measurement of cutaneous sebum: reproducibility at different cleansing conditions, J. Appl. Cosmetol /1987 Hevert, Berz, Händewaschen ohne Wasser, Arbeitsmedizin, Sozialmedizin, Präventivmedizin, 1987 Within the feasibility stage of ORDET (Prospective Study on Hormones and Diet in Breast Cancer Etiology) a reproducibility study on the measuring of cutaneous sebum has been carried out. The Schwarzhaupt SM410 Sebumeter was used for the assessment of the sebum production. 11 measurements were taken from the forehead, back and nape over 36 hr. period, on 9 women ranging in age from 28 to 61 years. A good reproducibility was observed for all measurements and sebumeter discrimination capacity for different levels of sebum production appears particularly high for the forehead. The use of forehead sebum measurement has proved to be suitable for epidemiological studies. Schrader, Bielfeldt, Die Beeinflussung der Hautfeuchtigkeit und Hautglätte durch den Biokatalysator Adenosintriphosphat (ATP), Ärztliche Kosmetologie,1988, Sehr geringe Mengen ATP-Dinatriumsalz (0,005%,0,05%) wurden in einem feuchtigkeitsspendenden Gesichtstonic eingesetzt. Gemessen wurde die Beeinflussung der Hautfeuchtigkeit und der Hautglätte. Obwohl die Grundlage erwartungsgemäß bereits befriedigende Wirkungen, insbesondere was die Hautfeuchtigkeit anbelangt, erzielt, führt der Zusatz sehr geringer Mengen ATP noch zu einer dramatischen Wirkungssteigerung. Blichman, Serup, Assessment of skin moisture measurement of electrical conductance, capacitance and transepidermal water loss, Acta Derm Venereol 1988 Experiments on skin moisture were undertaken using three different equipments, i.e. the Skicon 100 and Corneometer CM 420 hydrometers, and the ServoMed EP1 evaporimeter. Studies included ten healthy volunteers. Water was applicated to test sites on the forearm and the palm of the hand, and effects monitored by the three methods. Parallel increases in conductance, capacitance and transepidermal water loss were registered lasting about five min. The Skicon-100 was more sensitive for measurement of increased hydration while the Corneometer CM 420 might be more sensitive for measurement of decreased hydration. Inter- and intra- individual variations were minor with all instruments. According to reproducibility studies the Corneometer CM 420 was more accurate than the Skicon-100. Technical experiments indicated that the Corneometer CM 420 depicts changes of hydration down to a depth of 0.1 mm while the Skicon-100 measures very superficially. In conclusion, both hydrometers were relevant and valid for assessment of skin moisture. The methods are supplementary, and their combined use is recommended. D.van Neste, J.L. Antoine, A vehicle controlled study of the effects of hydrating agents in a human model of rough dermatitic skin, Bioeng. skin, 4/1988 Rough dermatitic skin (RDS) sites induced by sodium laurylsulphate (SLS, aqueous solutions at 10%,5% and 1% left under occlusion for 48 hours, distilled water served as a 0% SLS control; ten subjects) showed increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increase cutaneous blood flow values (CBFV) which lasted from day 1 to days 5 to 7. There were no significant changes of skin electrical properties (COND) 24 hours after removal of the SLS patches. However, this lag phase was followed by a gradual decrease of COND (days 2 to 5). Normal COND values were again recorded around day 7 after the initial insult, along with elimination of the superficial SLS induced flake. COND was correlated with clinical scores of roughness. Finally, almost complete recovery of RDS was observed by day 10 with normal TEWL, CBFV and COND. A time course study of TEWL, CBFV and COND showed epidermal repair after daily topical treatment with the vehicle alone tested or the vehicle with hydrating agents (HA) (10% urea and 5% lactic acid).when compared with untreated skin or vehicle treated RDS patches, COND was higher at HA treated sites. Under the experimental conditions proposed in this study, COND did not reflect the acute changes of barrier function of the skin as accurately as TEWL or CBFV measurements. It generated a signal closely H\litlist\studies 12/06 6

7 related to the feeling of roughness, hence allowing instrumental monitoring of the epidermal healing underneath the superficial scale. Finally, it provided quantitative data in relation to substantivity of topically applied hydrating agents onto experimentally induced RDS in human skin. E. Beradesca, H.I. Maibach, Racial Differences in Sodium Lauryl Sulphate induced cutaneous irritation: black and white, Contact Dermatitis 18: 65-70, 1988 The different reactivity of black and white skin after exposure to sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) has been investigated. 9 white and 10 black male volunteers entered the study. The tests were performed on the back at 3 sites: untreated skin, skin pre-treated with occlusion and skin pre-delipidized. Irritant reactions were elicited applying 0.5% and 2.0% SLS via Finn chamber patch tests and monitored by means of laser Doppler velocimetry (LDV), transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and stratum corneum water content (WS). Higher TEWL, LDV, and WC values were recorded for 2.0% SLS when compared to 0.5% SLS and baselines. Pre-treatment with short-term occlusion generally increased values, while delipidization produced flattening of the data more detectable in whites than in blacks. Significant TEWL differences for two concentrations were recorded in whites for the occluded site (P<0.02) while in blacks in the untreated (P<0.04) and delipidized (P<0.03) sites. LDV revealed significant changes in the untreated and pre-occluded white skin (P<0.05 and 0.01, respectively). In blacks, the values were significantly different only in the pre-occluded skin (P<0.01). Water content correlated with the visual score and was greatly increased in sites with strongly positive reactions (P<0.01). It appears that there are significant differences in the modulation of irritation, in the behaviour of water barrier function and of the erythematous response between blacks and whites. Clinical correlations are discussed. H.I. Maibach, E. Patrick, Session VI: Hair, Sebaceous Glands and Nails, 7 th International Symposium of Bioengineering and the Skin, 1988 Tronnier, Die Haut als Grenzschicht, Kosmetik International 8/88 Als äußere Begrenzung des Organismus ist die menschliche Haut wie kein anderes Organ Umwelteinflüssen ausgesetzt. Eine seiner wesentlichsten Aufgaben ist es, diese Umwelteinflüsse abzuwehren, zu neutralisieren oder soweit zu modifizieren, daß sie den Organismus nicht gefährden. Einen Teil insbesondere akuter Schädigungen vermag die Haut über verschiedene Rezeptoren, die sie insgesamt auch zu einem Sinnesorgan machen, zu erkennen. Gegen andere, insbesondere relativ schwache und chronische Noxen vermag die Haut mit Anpassungsvorgängen, erwähnt sei nur die Hornschichtverdickung oder die Pigmentbildung, zu reagieren. In dem Thema Die Haut als Grenzschicht möchte ich zu drei Komplexen Stellung nehmen, die entweder zur Zeit zum Teil kontrovers diskutiert werden oder von denen ich glaube, daß sie thematisch aus Ihrer Arbeitsrichtung von Interesse sein könnten. Fiorentini, Becheroni, Iorio, Hyaluronic acid: analytical procedures for purity determination, polymerization degrees and comparative instrumental tests in vivo, International Journal of cosmetic science 26.29/09/88 Recent studies have shown that hyaluronic acid is an important molecule in cosmetics, although there are different, sometimes controversial theories about its role. This work is an analytical contribution to the characterization and a control of hyaluronic acid. The main techniques used are UV, GCP or SEC, IR and corneometry. Surveys conducted with the aid of these techniques have allowed a better knowledge of the molecular weight determination and of the uniform quality of commercial supplies. These procedures may be of application for quality control and promote further investigation on the biological tissular role played by hualuronic acid in topical cosmetic products. The analytical results of a study of the evaluation of oil/water (o/w) emulsions containing hyaluronic acid of different origins are reported. The analytical data obtained from cutaneous hydratation control apparatuses were compared statistically. The choice of hyaluronic acid, made through screening and evaluation by the above-mentioned techniques, ensures the optimal formulation of the finished product and a quality standard of the active principle. H\litlist\studies 12/06 7

8 Nissen, Physikalische Meßmethoden in der Kosmetik, Kosmetik International, 18-22, 11/1988 Bei der Anwendung physikalischer Meßmethoden in der kosmetischen Praxis sind grundsätzliche Gesichtspunkte zur Messung sowohl hinsichtlich der Methoden als auch der Versuchsdurchführung zu beachten. Die anwendbaren Meßverfahren sollten einfach und ohne großen technischen, personellen und finanziellen Aufwand möglich sein. Diese Bedingungen werden von einigen Meßgeräten erfüllt. Mit ihrer Hilfe kann in kurzer Zeit eine exakte Hautdiagnose gestellt und die kosmetischen Wirkansprüche bestimmter Produkte überprüft werden. J.W. Feather,D.J. Ellis,G. Leslie, A portable reflectometer for the rapid quantification of cutaneous haemoglobin and melanin, Phys.Med.Biol., Vol.33, , 1988 A portable reflectance instrument for the rapid quantification of cutaneous haemoglobin and melanin is presented. Light emitting diodes (LEDS) are used to illuminate the skin and a silicon photodiode to detect the light diffusely reflected from the surface. Reflectance measurements are made at only three wavelengths and the problem of pigment quantification consequent upon this are discussed. In addition to quantification of haemoglobin and melanin, qualitative information on the redox state of blood may also be obtained. Measurements made on a port wine stain, which had been treated with 576 nm cw laser radiation at times between 1 and 6 months previously, provided information on the vascular response to this thermal injury. Despite the treated area visually appearing normal at 6 months post-treatment the measured levels of deoxygenated and total haemoglobin were still markedly higher than those in the adjacent uninvolved skin. The cutaneous pigment indices are insensitive to skin movements and almost all body sites are suitable for measurement. J.W. Feather, D.J. Ellis, G. Leslie, A portable reflectometer for a rapid quantification of cutaneous haemoglobin and melanin, Vol.33, No 6, , Phys.Med.Biol., A portable reflectance instrument for the rapid quantification of cutaneous haemoglobin and melanin is presented. Light emitting diodes (LEDS) are used to illuminate the skin and a silicon photodiode to detect the light diffusely reflected from the surface. Reflectance measurements are made at only three wavelengths and the problems of pigment quantification consequent upon this are discussed. In addition to quantification of haemoglobin and melanin, qualitative information on the redox state of the blood may also be obtained. Measurements made on port wine stain, which had been treated with 576 nm cw laser radiation at times between 1 and 6 months previously, provided information on the vascular response to this thermal injury. P. Morganti, S.D. Randazzo, L utilizzazione degli indici di correzione per il trattamento cosmetico della cute secca e desidratata, Il Prodotto Chimico, April 1989 Solaroli, Manifestazioni seborroiche e desquamative del capillizio, trattate con un nuovo preparato a base di urea e acido salicilico, La Medicina Estetica, Seborrhea and desquamation of the scalp treated with a new preparation based on urea and salicylic acid. The activity of salicylic acid and urea from particular lotions was studied in vivo by measuring the possible antiseborrheic effect. We used the modified photometric technique (Sebumeter SM 810) which permits measurement of casual levels (CL) or sebometric index (SI); although this is less accurate then a sebum excretion rate (SER) assessment, but there is some correlation between (SER) and (CL). In the study of 30 patients we have employed the method described to assess the bioavailability of Keratolytic and Keratoplastic agents incorporated in topical formulations; in this way we have shown the benefit of these preparations. Th. Frödin, Specific determination of epidermal water by optothermal infrared spectometry, Regional Symposium, Copenhagen, Christa W. Blichmann, Effects of single application of a moisturizer, Regional Symposium, Copenhagen, Anders Winther, Effects of repailed application of a moisturizer, Regional Symposium, Copenhagen, H\litlist\studies 12/06 8

9 Desai, Kosmetische Spezialprodukte aus nachwachsenden Rohstoffen, Vortrag anläßlich des SCC annual meeting, New York, , Parfümerie und Kosmetik, 6/89 Special cosmetic products bases on regrowing raw materials. Some new cosmetic specialities based on regrowing raw materials are introduced. These chemicals are harmless from the toxicological and dermatological point of view. Moreover, they possess interesting cosmetic properties such as gentleness, anti-irritation, emolliency and moisture regulation. The new bio-raw materials presented here offer various possibilities for a wide use in all fields of the grooming cosmetics. Rimpler, Zur Wirksamkeit von Kosmetika, Teil1: Messung der Hautfeuchtigkeit, Beauty Nr. 2/89 S. Dikstein, The normal range of the skin s parameters, o.v., o.j. In order to define the normal values of any measurement, we have to study its variation in the population according to age, sex, etc. We wish to present the normal biological variation and the age dependency of the following parameters on the forehead skin of women: Indentation, as measured by low-pressure indentometry; Elastic recovery (rebound), as measured by low-pressure indentometry; Skin slackness, as measured by levarometry, and Skin surface ph, as measured a by ph meter equipped with a planar surface electrode. Statistical analysis showed age dependence of these parameters. The mean values at the ages of 20 and 70, were respectively; low pressure indentation: cm, elastic recovery: 80.5%;-65.5%; levarometry (slackness) cm; and skin surface ph: The correlation coefficient was low but significant at p<0.05 for indentometry, elastic recovery and skin surface ph ( ) and good for levarometry (0.57). The above measurements and calculations allowed us to decide on the normal versus desired range. In analogy, for an antipyretic drug we need to know at what body temperature to start using it and what the desired normal temperature is. Such analysis is very important if we wish to develop skin care products with scientifically proven value to combat aging aspects of the skin. Bosio, Teresa Anfossi, Silvia Audi, Grivetta, Indici biofisici della cute in rapporto all età determinati in elastometria cutanea, Incontri di cosmetologia, 06/89 L indagine è condotta mediante l impiego del CUTOMETER SEM 474; il pricipio di funzionamento dello strumento si basa sulla possibilità di misurare, mediante uno speciale sensore optoelettronico, l altezza della cute aspirata all interno di una sonda da una depressione di 250 mbar (2,3). I risultati di ogni singola determinazione vengono presentati sotto forma di grafico delle deformazioni cutanee dove in ordinata è indicata l altezza in mm della cute aspirata nella sonda ed in ascissa sono indicati i tempi a cui il parametro altezza viene rilevato. Si osserva di norma il seguente comportamento:rapido e lineare incremento del parametro altezza seguito da una fase di crescita lenta fino al ragiungimento del valore della massima deformazione cutanea indotta dalla forza applicata. C. Torresani, D. Rastelli, M. E. Berioli, G.De Panfilis, Valutazione dell efficacia di un emulsione cosmetica a base di aqua termale sulfurea, Incontri di Cosmetologia, 07/89 Lo studio è stato condotto su un gruppo di 20 pazienti, 13 femmine e 7 maschi, di età compresa tra 21 e 43 anni. Il trattamento è consistito in due applicazioni giornaliere di una emulsione O/A contenente per il 79% acqua termale sulfureo-solfato-calcica, per un periodo di quattro settimane. Durante tale periodo è stato escluso qualsiasi altro trattamento ed i pazienti sono stati invitati ad effettuare la detersione del viso esclusivamente con acqua. I pazienti sono stati controllati prima dell inizio del trattamento, nonché al 7, 14, 21 e 28 giorno del trattamento stesso. La valutazione quantitativa della seborrea è stata effettuata mediante sebometro reflettometrico Sebumeter SM 410 della ditta Schwarzhaupt. Come gruppo di controllo, è stato scelto un gruppo di 10 pazienti, omogeneo per sesso, età e patologia. Tali pazienti sono stati trattati, secondo le stesse modalità, con una emulsione placebo contenente i soli eccipienti e priva del principio attivo. E. Berardesca, G.Borroni, G.F. Secchi, Valutazioni dermatologiche e misurazioni cutanee nella detersione con latte di soia atomizzato, Incontri di cosmetologia, 06/89 P. Morganti, S.D. Randozzo, Gli indici di idratazione e di emolienza per la verifica dello stato cutaneo, Incontri di Cosmetologia No. 3, 07/89 H\litlist\studies 12/06 9

10 Per la misurazione sia del sebo di superficie che dell idrazione cutanea ci si è serviti di un sistema computerizzato denominato Dermotest Hytech dato dall unione del Sebometer SM 810 PC et del CORNEOMETER CM 820 PC, opportunamente collegati ad un PC mediante un adeguato programma di utilizzazione. Utilizzando il Dermotest Hytech è possibile ottenere direttamente sia i valori sebometrici espressi in mg/cm² che i valori della idratazione cutanea espressi in CV (corneometer values). o.a., Kosmetik-Tests, Stiftung Warentest, 07/89 U. Zeidler, Einfluß des ph-werts von Körperreinigungsmitteln auf die Hautquellung, Forschung Klinik Praxis, 1989 The epidermis, especially the horny layer, frequently comes into contact with cosmetic cleansing agents containing surfactants. Interactions are characterized among other things by swelling processes. Swelling was investigated on isolated pig epidermis which had been treated with different surfactants at varying ph-values. With increasing ph-value, anionic surfactants increased epidermal swelling, whereas it decreased by treatment with cationic surfactants. Amphoteric surfactants increased swelling in both acid and basic solution and formed a minimum in the neutral range. The degree of ethoxylation, the chain lengh and the type of anionic group changed the swelling behaviour characteristically at varying ph value. The results obtained show that swelling, as an osmotic process, is primarily attributable to ionic interactions between the surfactant ions and the amphoteric protein structure, but it is also influenced by hydrophobic interactions. Increased swelling of the superficial skin layer can favor the extraction of lipids and moisturizing factors, thereby promoting dryness and roughness of the skin. Therefore, the knowledge of the swelling behaviour can contribute to the development of improved cleansing agents leading to minimal swelling. M. Gehse, ph-wert der jungen und der reifen Haut und seine Beeinflussung durch waschaktive Substanzen, Kosmetik International 08/89 L. Nogueira, D. Gabrielle, New techniques to assay skin care products, D & CI 09/89 Elsner, Maibach, Ein PC/AT - gestütztes Datenerfassungssystem für das Hautphysiologielabor, Workshop Computer in der Dermatologie, Für die quantitative Untersuchung physiologischer Parameter des Hautorgans wurde eine Reihe nichtinvasiver Methoden entwickelt, die Anwendung v.a in der Dermatopharmakologie und der Dermatotoxikologie gefunden haben. Zu diesen Methoden zählen die Evaporimetrie zur Messung des transepidermalen Wasserverlustes, konduktive und kapazitative Verfahren zur Messung des epidermalen Wassergehaltes und die Messung der Hautdurchblutung mittels des Laser-Doppler- Verfahrens. Die Reproduzierbarkeit von Evaporimeter- und Laser-Doppler-Messungen wird durch dynamische Veränderungen der Meßgrößen beeinträchtigt. Ferner fallen bei experimentellen Studien mit den genannten Geräten erhebliche Datenmengen an, deren manuelle Erfassung unökonomisch ist. Wir haben daher ein Datenerfassungssystem emtwickelt, mit dem die Meßwerte von Hautoberflächen- Thermistor, Evaporimeter, Kapazitometer, ph-meter und Laser-Doppler direkt in ein Spreadsheet auf einem PC eingelesen und sofort statistisch ausgewertet werden können. Hardwareseitig besteht das System aus einem AT-kompatiblen Computer mit 2 seriellen Schnittstellen und einem Metrabyte DAS-16-A/D-Board, das die simultane Erfassung von bis zu 16 Datenkanälen erlaubt. An Software werden Lotus und Lotus Measure eingesetzt. Der Aufbau des Systems und Einsatzmöglichkeiten werden erläutert. S. Bonazzi, Gazzaniga, Skin plastoelasticity modifications due to application of a reconstructed moisturizing compound, 3 rd international congress on cosmetic dermatology, Wien, M. Rieger, Skin, water and moisturization, Cosmetics & Toiletries Vol. 104, 12/89 Van Neste, L. Ghys, J.L. Antoine, J.P. Riboux, Pharmacological modulation by Cetirizine and Atropine of the Histamine - and Methacholine- Induced wheals and flares in human skin, Skin Pharmacology Reprint, Vol. 2 No. 2 (pp ) 1989 H\litlist\studies 12/06 10

11 This study was planned to verify wether different methods for the measurement of skin reactivity, i.e., wheal and flare area, wheal trickness, skin capacitance and transepidermal water loss, were or were not able to discriminate between intradermally injected agonists (histamine and methacholine). For evaluating agonist/antagonist interactions, we adopted a cross-over, double- blind, placedo-controlled study designed to compare the effects of cetirizine and atropine. The intradermal injection of agonists elicited the appearance of wheal and flare reactions and, after histamine, the skinfold thickness was significantly increased. Skin capacitance and transepidermal water loss measurements reflected sweat gland activation after methacholine injection but were, respectively, not or less affected by histamine dry skin prick test or saline; hence, both methods appear very sensitive for in vivo testing of cholinomimetic agents. Cetirizine inhibited all the specific skin modifications induced by histamine challenge, wheals, flares and increase thickness, without affecting the methacholine-induced perspiration. This would further support the H1 specificity of this anti-h1 agent in vivo. However, at the agonist/antagonist ratios tested in view of the safety of the test persons, we were unable to objectivate methacholine blockade by atropine. H. Nougaigui, J.L. Antoine, M.L. Masmudi, van Neste, J.M. Lachapelle, Étude invasive et noninvasive du pouvoir protecteur d une crème siliconée et de son excipient vis-à-vis de l irritation cutanée induite par le laurylsulfate de sodium, Ann. Dermatol. Venereol. 116:1989, S Invasive and non-invasive studies of the protective effect of a silicone-containing cream and its vehicle on cutaneous irritation induced by sodium laurylsulphate. The purpose of our study was to evaluate the protective effect of a new silicone-containing barrier-cream (Anthydro TM) and its vehicle (AnthydroTM without silicone) in the prevention of cutaneous irritation by detergents: We therefore planned a study in several stages, using an anionic surfactant well known for its irritant properties: sodium laurylsulphalte (SLS) in aqueous solution. In a first series of experiments, the protective effect of the AnthydroTm cream against SLS was studied by invasive methods on guineapigs in order to determine histologically the protective effect of the cream when a 10 p.100 SLS solution was applied on the skin under occlusion during 24 hours (Square chamberstm, Van der Bend). Typical and reproducible lesions were apparent, and the protected sites were compared with the unprotected sites. In parallel, we used non-invasive methods (conductivity, transepidermal water loss and cutaneous blood flow) to determine in humans the protective effect of AnthydroTm cream in comparison with unprotected sites after application during 24 hours of patches soaked with a 5 p. 100 SLS solution on the foreams of 13 adult and healthy volunteers (Silver patch teststm, Van der Bend). In both experiments the AnthydroTm cream was effective in reducing the SLS- induced cutaneous irritation. In a second series of experiments, the AnthydroTm barrier-cream was compared with its base (AnthydroTm without silicone) in terms of effectiveness, following the same experimental procedure (invasive on guinea-pigs, and non-invasive on humans). The base was shown to be effective in protecting against irritation. However, the histological lesions were less intense when the skin was protected by AnthydroTm than by its vehicle. Concerning the non-invasive methods in humans, no signifiant statistical differences appeared in the measurement of various parameters between the sites protected by AnthydroTm and the sites protected by the vehicle. These results lead us to suggest the existence of an essentially mechanical protective effect in which the silicone plays a very small part in terms of effectiveness. These experimental results necessitates further investigations to be extrapolated to occupational conditions without test performed in industries and well-conducted epidemiological investigations. J.L. Antoine, J.L. Contreras, D. van Neste, ph Influence on surfactant-induced skin irritation, Dermatosen in Beruf und Umwelt, Band 37, 1989, 3, Even though various experimental methods have been proposed for in vitro testing of detergents such as SLS ( sodium laurylsulfate) no absolutely relevant clinical information can be inferred from them as to the irritancy of a given compound. In particular the relative importance of ph needs further assessment. This study reports on in vivo evaluation of skin function changes under given experimental conditions with SLS applied at 3 different ph values. There is a dramatic increase of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), i.e. a substantial reduction in the barrier function of the skin, when SLS is applied under occlusion for 48 H. The alkaline control solution (NaOH ph 9) induced low- H\litlist\studies 12/06 11

12 grade, but significant TEWL increases, as compared to the other controls ( distilled water ph7; HCl ph5), which had no influence on TEWL. The changes obtained with the controls were much lower than those observed with SLS. The barrier-function changes induced by the surfactant SLS could, however, promote transepidermal passage of acid and/or alkaline molecules, hence increasing toxic damage of the skin; yet no such effects could be observed, indicating that the main effects are due to detergency. Assessment of cutaneous blood flow values (CBFV) by laser Doppler velocimetry showed increased values after SLS. When ph-adjusted SLS solutions were compared, there was neither a difference in relation to ph nor did the control solutions induce any significant CBFV change. This study reveals that TEWL and CBFV are probably the most reliable methods to investigate acute irritancy by SLS. Accordingly, ph cannot be considered as a major contributive factor of irritancy when SLS solutions are applied under occlusion (48H). The current level of sebaceous secretion and the electrical properties of the skin surface were not parameters to evaluate acute SLS-induced skin damage, but longitudinal studies are presently being conducted in order to assess their significance in monitoring epidermal repair after SLS insults. K. Schrader, Optimierung eines kosmetischen Pflegeproduktes auf die menschliche Haut, H+G Zeitschrift für Hautkrankheiten 12/89 After explaining the idea and purpose of cosmetic products, we report on the course of development these products usually take: marketing briefing, selection of the raw materials, serial experiments and stability tests, and finally, dermatophysiological efficacy tests. In particular, we deal with the application of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) and its moisturing and smoothing effect on human skin. Our results are discussed in details. K.H. Schrader und St.Bielfeld, Vergleichende experimentelle Untersuchungen zwischen Hautoberflächenprofil und der Hautfeuchtigkeit, Parfümerie und Kosmetik, Nr 2/89 Kosmetische Wirkungen von Pflegeprodukten an der menschlichen Haut sind oft sehr gering und demzufolge auch nicht so einfach nachzuweisen. Häufig ist es deshalb nicht möglich, diese geringen Veränderungen anhand eines Prüfkriteriums zu dokumentieren. Zu den wichtigsten Parametern zur Charakterisierung der kosmetischen Hautwirkungen ist die Hautrauhigkeit sowie die Hautfeuchtigkeit von großer Bedeutung. V. Rogiers, Assessment of skin surface hydration: the need for standardized conditions in capacitance measurements, Lecture held at the congress of CIE Cosmetic Ingredients Europe, , Wiesbaden The practical usefulness of the CORNEOMETER CM 820, a commercially available apparatus for measuring stratum corneum moisture content, has been evaluated on the skin of normal volunteers. Factors such as cleaning procedure intragroup and regional variations, temperature and humidity have been examined. Under well-defined conditions of skin cleaning, environmental temperature and relative humidity large site-to-site variations occurred. However when selected areas, ¼, 2/4 and ¾ on the forearm, were studied, constant hydration values were measured for the individual spots for at least 1 month, although they differed significantly among each other. On the contrary, corresponding areas on the right and left forearm had exactly the same hydration value for at least 1 month. When the efficacy of moisturizing creams has to be tested, well-defined areas of one forearm may serve as controls, whereas on the corresponding areas of the other forearm the samples may be applied. Age seemed to be an important additional factor influencing skin hydration, whereas gender had no effect. When the efficacy of moisturizing creams was tested it appeared that some w/o creams had a significantly higher effect than o/w creams and this was dependent on the skin type involved. Creams with 10% glycerol exhibited significantly higher hydration values than those without. In conclusion, simple capacitance measurements are very useful for assessment of skin surface hydration on the condition that standardized conditions are rigorously taken into account. W. Gehring, M.Gloor Die Bedeutung des ph-wertes bei der Hautreinigung (The importance of the ph in skin cleansing), Parfümerie + Kosmetik, 04/90 The irritant potential of the ph was determined according to morphological criteria by using frozen sections of human skin. In vivo the dehydrating effect on the cornea was analysed by means of H\litlist\studies 12/06 12