THE BLACK HAIR ANSWER BOOK

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Caitlin Walsh
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1 THE BLCK HIR NSWER Everything You Wanted To Know Revealed By Marquetta Breslin

2 THE BLCK HIR NSWER Below are some of the most common questions I receive on a daily basis. Hopefully, after you read this book, you ll be able to make more informed decisions and have a deeper understanding of hair and the world of braiding and weaving. Enjoy! Marquetta Breslin Marquetta Breslin

3 THE BLCK HIR NSWER On average, how much can a cosmetologist make a year? cosmetologist s income will vary depending on their experience and location. ccording to the Workforce Website of the New York State Department of Labor, the average salary on the low end is $15,450 and on the high end $38,300. When I braid my hair, my braids start overlapping each other. How can I fix this? The best way is to make your braids even all the way down by starting with even strands of hair. In my video, I section the human hair into three strands, which I use as my guide for keeping the strands uniform. This technique was designed to help keep the strands from overlapping. t some point, you may have to take from one of your strands of hair and add to another in order to ensure that all strands are even. I am having a difficult time trying to do Senegalese Twists. Can you tell me the best way to start them and how to finish them off? The concept for Kinky Twists and Senegalese Twists are exactly the same. There are two ways to start the twist; by either twisting first or starting with a braid. Some people believe that starting with a braid is not professional and doesn t look good. I, on the other hand, think it looks fantastic! Twisting all the way down is challenging but this looks great as well. You can find both of these techniques demonstrated in the Insider s Club and on my Kinky Twist DVD. I haven t had a relaxer in over 5 weeks and I would like to get Kinky Twists. I plan to keep them in for at least 3 months. Without having had a relaxer for so long, I m sure that my hair will be kinky when I take the Twists out. Is it safe for me to go ahead and get them now? If you plan on keeping a relaxer in your hair, it is very important to get your hair retouched religiously - every 6 to 8 weeks. If you don t, your hair could suffer from being under-pro-

4 THE BLCK HIR NSWER cessed, or break at the point where your relaxed hair meets the new growth. In your case, I would definitely wait the extra week, get your retouch, wait at least one week (preferably two), and then get your Kinky Twists. I have been wearing wigs and weaves for a very long time, but I have recently decided to let my own hair grow. What can I do to stop my desire to wear wigs and weaves again? I m glad that you have decided to wear your own hair! Now that you have decided to grow back your natural hair, it is very important to use nothing less than the best shampoos and conditioners to keep the hair healthy and strong. If you are getting your hair relaxed, make sure to get it done on a regular basis with a conditioning lye relaxer. I have colored my hair 3 different times within a 6-month period, and I am experiencing breakage beyond my wildest nightmares. I have been advised to use several different products to help minimize the damage. Do you have any suggestions that may help? I am losing all my hair length with this breakage. Unfortunately, your problem is all too familiar with many women these days. Whatever you do you, you do not want to cut all of your hair off to start all over. The only exception is if you have absolutely no other course of action to take. ll of the hair grows at the same rate of about 1/2 inch per month. It is okay to get your hair trimmed or shaped every few months. Your hair will normally shed anywhere from 45 to 100 strands of hair per day. Be sure to keep your hair washed and conditioned every five days using only the best quality products. Using cheap brands of hair care products can be extremely damaging to your hair. How do you properly remove extensions that have been added in with bonding glue without leaving any hair glue behind? Many try to stay away from using bond because it has been known to cause major breakage, but the problem mainly lies in the removal. It is very important to properly remove the bond from the hair. I am a huge fan of using bond removers. Following the directions and using them correctly will definitely cut down on the residue and hair loss. You might also

5 THE BLCK HIR NSWER look into using a bond removing shampoo. Your local beauty supply store is a good place to find these products. My hair is chemically processed. I have a body wave which is made by ffirm. Recently, I made the mistake of taking out my braids and getting a curl the next day. Two weeks after that, I went back to get a color rinse in my hair. Two weeks later, while washing my hair, it came out in clumps! There are patches of my hair that are completely missing. What can I do to take better care of my hair so that it will grow back thick, full, and healthy? lways remember that whenever the hair has been damaged, it will never return back to its healthy state. With all that you have described, it is obvious that your hair is severely damaged, and it will take you at least two years to grow and replace all of the hair that was damaged. It is going to be very important for you take special care of your hair going forward. There is a product that I have been using on my hair for quite some time now that has worked nothing but wonders for me. This product is called Humectress by Nexxus. It is a moisturizing conditioner that helps to restore the moisture balance within the hair shaft. Shampoo your hair with a good quality shampoo every five days; then apply the conditioner to your hair. Leave it in the hair with a plastic cap for about 15 to 20 minutes. Rinse your hair thoroughly and style as usual. Once you perform this process religiously for at least 4 to 8 weeks, you should start to see a positive change in your hair. For a person with a short hair cut that now wants a weave - and doesn t want to use any glue - what weaving techniques do you suggest? There are a few options available that don t involve bonding. If your hair is not too short, you can always opt for a sew-in weave. You may also inquire about Interlock and Latchhook weaving. My hair gets really tangled when I wash it. What products can I use to prevent this from happening? I would suggest using a conditioner after you wash your hair. Conditioners keep the hair from tangling and leave it smooth and silky.

6 THE BLCK HIR NSWER How do you get Kinky Twists to stay sealed without unraveling? Since Kinky Twists are done with synthetic hair, I like to use hot water to seal the ends. What you can do is this: First, drape your client with a towel. Be sure to warn her that the water that you re going to use will be extremely hot and it is very important that she does not move. Get the water literally to a boiling point after you have used your rods or yarn to curl the ends, and dip them in the hot water. The hot water will seal the ends by melting the hair together. How do you get rid of the frizzies when doing Kinky Twists? sk your client to wash and condition her hair and let it air dry before her appointment. If the hair is blown dry, those ends are too straight and tend to stick out. What is the best hair to use when doing Kinky Twists? I like to use the Bob Marley Hip Hop Braid. I like this hair because it is already sectioned. This makes it very easy to keep the twists proportioned and neat. Celebrity weaves look so natural. What kind of hair are they using? These days, many celebrities are wearing Lace Front Wigs. These have been around for a very long time, but they are just starting to hit the general public. These beautiful wigs have been worn by such famous names as Rue Paul, Beyonce and Tyra Banks.

7 THE BLCK HIR NSWER What s the safest length of time to have Micro Braids in your hair? Should you allow a break in between getting them redone? If you currently have a relaxer in your hair and you are not trying to go natural, you should take your braids out every 4 to 6 weeks to keep up with your retouch. It is very important to get your retouches on schedule to minimize breakage and avoid under-processing your hair. If you are going natural, I would suggest washing and deep-conditioning your hair after and in-between braids to give your hair a little break. You should wait at least a week (preferably 2) before putting the braids back in your hair. I ve just started using a perm (Just for Me) in my daughter s hair. What type of moisturizer should I use in a four-year-old s hair so that it doesn t dry out and break? Her hair is long and very, very dry. I normally advise against putting chemicals in a young child s hair. However, at this point you really need a crème-based moisturizer (SoftSheen-Carson has a great product called OptiCreme) for her hair and scalp and a good moisturizing conditioner (try the Silken Child line by Silk Elements). Remember, the more you shampoo her hair the better, and highquality products really do make all the difference. How do you keep dry hair moisturized without heavy grease? I am a huge fan of crème-based moisturizers. They are not greasy and they do not clog your pores like grease and some heavy oils. I have two that I really like. One is called OptiCreme by Optimum (SoftSheen-Carson), and the other is called Perfect for Perms by Razac. I have used both of these products and love them both.

8 THE BLCK HIR NSWER My daughter has a relaxer. The styling process that we ve been using immediately following her shampoo and conditioner is to a) section the hair, oil it and plait it while still wet b) allow it to air dry. Does this type of styling process promote the dry rotting of the hair? Or is this safe to do? I do not think it promotes dry rotting of the hair, but it s not something that I would do on a regular basis. When you section her hair, you should take each section and moisturize it with a crème based moisturizer. pply some setting lotion to help protect the hair from breakage and blow it dry and style as usual. My hairstylist refuses to follow the manufacturers relaxer guidelines by removing the relaxer from my daughter s hair within the recommended time of minutes. It normally stays on for about minutes. I believe this has led to severe breakage in my daughter s hair including her frontal hairline. What are your thoughts on following the relaxer manufacturer s guidelines to the letter? Believe it or not, it only takes the hair between 12 and 15 minutes to relax completely. The hair starts to relax starting from the time the relaxer comes into contact with the hair. The manufacturer has put directions on those boxes for a reason. I m sure that they have thoroughly tested the possibilities of what could happen given any situation. So to answer your question, I am a firm believer on following the manufacturer s guidelines to a t. It seems that some peoples hair is braided very tightly around the edges. It looks like the hair will break. Why is the hair braided so tightly? Unfortunately, I do not have a clear answer as to why their hair is braided too tight. There are some braiders out there that do not take the health of their clients hair into consideration and as a result their hair is more vulnerable to damage. When you go to a salon to get your hair braided, stress the importance of your hair care. sk them to either leave that hair along the edges out or to not braid it so tightly to your scalp.

9 THE BLCK HIR NSWER I started swimming again but now I have extensions. What types of shampoo and conditioners should I use? With all of the chemicals that are in swimming pools, it is very important for you to keep your hair clean. Your hair is going to need to be shampooed after every swim. Now, I m sure we ve all heard that shampooing our hair too much will dry it out, but shampooing your hair frequently is actually one of the best things you can do for your hair. I suggest using a clarifying shampoo, which is designed to cleanse the hair and protect the scalp. This type of shampoo is also good for residue build-up, chlorine, salt water and other harmful impurities that can cause damage. Is there anyway to fight the itch when you have cornrows? There is a product by Jamaican Mango and Lime made especially for itchy locs and braids, and it works wonders. I have used this product myself and have recommended it to several of my clients as well. You said one needs to interview her customers before braiding their hair. What specific questions do I need to ask to look like an expert braider? What do I need to know if I want to be able to suggest alternative hair styles that might be flattering? You need to find out what the customer s goals are for her hair. sk her if she is trying to grow the chemicals out of her hair or if she is just giving her hair a break from all of the chemicals. lso let her know that she still needs to wash and condition her hair on a regular basis. Now, if you have a client who is suffering from alopecia or severe hair loss, you need to take a good look at the problem and suggest something that you think will work best with the issue at hand.

10 THE BLCK HIR NSWER Do you think it s professional to operate your hair braiding business out of your home? Some would say that it is ghetto to operate a braiding business out of your home, but if you have a designated area with a bathroom inside, I don t think it s ghetto at all. I would not have my clients walk through the private areas in my home such as my kitchen, living room, or bed room just to get to the salon area. Rather, there needs to be a dedicated entrance and exit. You also need to get the proper license required to operate your salon out of your home. What is the easiest way to take out braids? Wet the hair and spray it with a conditioner. Section the hair into four parts. Working with one section at a time, start from the bottom and comb the hair up towards the braid until the braid starts to unravel. You may cut the braids, but be very careful not to cut the real hair in the process. Continue this process until you have worked through all sections of the hair. How can I preserve the front of my customer s hair? The best way to preserve the front of the customer s hair is to either not braid it at all or to keep the braids loose. If you do braid her hair loose around the edges, be sure to let her know that pulling the hair into tight ponytails or tight up-dos can still pull the hair out from the roots.

11 THE BLCK HIR NSWER I wear my hair natural and it is very tightly coiled. When I braid my hair, the hair around the edges starts to fall out. What would be the cause of that? If you are losing your hair around the edges, it probably means that your hair is braided too tightly. You may need to give you hair a break from the braids and start treating your hair around the edges. good product to use is Dr. Miracles. He has a wide variety of products that cater to damaged hair. I have trouble finding the right styling products for my braids. What do you suggest? There are several good braid products on the shelves. Dr. Miracles, Jamaican Mango and Lime and Organic Root Stimulant are three of the best that I ve tried so far. I have also recommended these to many of my clients and have heard nothing but good things. Which kind of braids can stay in up to 3 months? Micro Braids and Box Braids can stay in up to 3 months. However, I would not suggest keeping braids in your hair any longer than 8 weeks. Your braids could start to lock or collect build-up that would be difficult to remove without pulling your hair out. How do you increase your speed as a braider? In my opinion, speed braiding is not something that can be taught. It is something that is developed over time with a lot of practice. Simply put, I have found that the more you braid, the faster you get! 10

12 THE BLCK HIR NSWER How do you maintain healthy hair while wearing your weave? It is very important to shampoo and condition your hair at least once per week if you re wearing a sew-in weave. If you have a bonded weave, I suggest going to a salon for your maintenance. What are the best products to use for doing cornrows in men s hair? I use Luster s Pink Oil Moisturizer when I m braiding men s hair. The key to minimizing frizzies is to blow the hair dry after you have moisturized the scalp. You will find that it is very easy to braid when you follow these steps. How do you know if your braids or cornrows are too tight? If, after you ve gotten your hair braided, your scalp is red or has little white bumps around the edges, your braids are too tight. They will need to be taken out immediately. I have a very big problem with dandruff. What type of shampoos can I use to help me with this issue? Dandruff shampoo is completely different from all of the other shampoos on the market. Dandruff shampoo can be used daily. What it will do is loosen dandruff flakes from the scalp and allow them to be washed away. You should continue to use this shampoo until you rid your hair of all of the dandruff. The flakes can be either dry or oily, so make sure you choose a shampoo that is specific to your problem. 11

13 THE BLCK HIR NSWER Can you recommend the best vitamins to promote hair growth? Biotin and calcium are both great as far as promoting hair growth. Calcium will help promote growth in the nails as well as the hair. I have a curly, long-length weave. How do I ensure that my natural hair underneath is cleansed? What products are best? You have a few options: you can either use a dry shampoo or you can shampoo your hair with a clarifying shampoo. Remember that with every shampoo, a great conditioner must follow. You should be shampooing and conditioning your hair at least once a week. My first weave was in pril of this year. I really liked it, but noticed that bits of my hair came out when it was time to take the weave out. Is this normal? The hair normally sheds about 50 to 100 strands of hair per day. If your hair has been braided, twisted, or weaved for quite a bit of time, it has not been able to shed properly. If your hair is coming out in clumps, that is a serious problem. However, what you describe seems very normal, and I don t think you have much to worry about. What suggestions do you have for a client s dry hair? I would suggest that your client shampoo and condition once a week. You will need to use a moisturizing conditioner (I like Humectress by Nexxus) to help restore the hair s moisture balance. s for the scalp, use a crème-based moisturizer twice per week. 12

14 THE BLCK HIR NSWER What can I use on my client s hair to extend her braided style? If the hair starts to get frizzy, you can use a little bit of gel to rub on those ends that are sticking out. nother suggestion is to tie the hair up with a silk scarf at night. What type of relaxer do you recommend? I highly suggest using a Conditioning Lye Relaxer. conditioning lye relaxer will leave your hair much softer and silkier than a no-lye relaxer. The regular no-lye relaxer will leave the hair dry and brittle. Does the hair have to be braided in a circle in order for the weave to look good? I find that it doesn t lay as well with this technique. No, the hair doesn t have to be braided in a circle for a weave. In fact, I rarely braid my clients hair in this manner. I always braid the hair straight back and sew the tracks from ear to ear. Using this approach, I have had no problems with bulkiness or problems with the hair not laying right. My daughter has been wearing her hair in a pony tail for a long time and now her hair is breaking off where the pony tail normally hangs. What can I do to help her hair to grow back? Most importantly, it s time to give the pony tails a rest for a bit. Keep her hair shampooed and conditioned once per week. Use a crème based moisturizer twice per week. 13

15 THE BLCK HIR NSWER When braiding, why do you usually start with the top? I personally do not start braiding from the top. I like to start from the bottom and work my way up to the top. This is how I ve braided hair for years. Where can I purchase the Kinky Twist hair you use in your videos? I like to use the Marley Braid hair, which is normally found at your local beauty supply store. What do you do when the client s hair is thin and sparse? The weave is long enough to cover the sparseness in between the layers, but the braids aren t close together as a result of the sparseness. This leaves large gaps in between the braided circle. You should try braiding your client s hair straight back and sew the tracks from ear to ear. You can still leave the parameter out and some at the top to help cover the tracks. Braiding straight back will be your best option in this situation because you can add as many tracks as you d like to make the hair thicker. When doing a bob, how can I get the ends to bend? The way to get the ends to bend is by your tension on the braid, rather than the client s scalp. Putting a lot of tension on the actual braid will make the hair bend on its own. 14

16 THE BLCK HIR NSWER When cornrowing my hair across in order to sew in a hair weft, do I make the cornrow straight across or do I braid a half cornrow from both sides of the head that meets in the middle? You can sew the hair either way, but what works best for me is braiding the hair straight back. Sometimes, depending on the client, I will leave the parameter out and some in the front of the head. I sew the tracks from ear to ear. I like doing it this way because it s faster and looks much more natural. What can I do to avoid making Micro Braids too small or too big? When I was first learning Micro Braids, what worked best for me was sectioning the hair prior to braiding. I would take a large section of hair from the pack and start sectioning that hair off for braiding. Now, once you have sectioned the hair, look carefully at each section of hair. You can normally tell where you have more or less hair and can either take or add to that particular section. Once you ve braided hair this way a few times, you will get used to sectioning the right amount of hair. Can braiding make your hair grow faster? On average, the hair grows about 1/4 to 1/2 inch per month. There is no way to make the hair grow faster, but there are things that promote growth such as certain vitamins like biotin and calcium. Why do braiders need to get a cosmetology license to braid? This is true for some states, but there are quite a few states that only require the braider to have a braiding license. The reason why we need a license to braid is for sanitation purposes. This arose from too many lawsuits and complaints about sanitation from customers and other cosmetologists. Many believe that it is unnecessary to make a braider go to cosmetology school, since there they will learn about using chemicals that have nothing to do with braiding. However, I do believe that as a braider, it is important to understand how to prevent things like scalp disease and HIV. 15

17 THE BLCK HIR NSWER I hope this book cleared up a lot of questions and concerns you had about braiding, products and the many myths that are circulating in the hair industry today. If you have any questions, we welcome you to contact us at contact@braidsbybreslin.com. Warmest Regards, Marquetta Breslin Marquetta Breslin 16

5 STEPS TO FASTER HAIR GROWTH

* Exclusive Special Report * 5 STEPS TO FASTER HAIR GROWTH Introduction Not long ago, as I was talking on the phone to one of my cousins, the subject of hair growth came up. My cousin is a licensed cosmetologist;