PERFORMANCE EVALUATION BRIEF

Transcription

1 PERFORMANCE EVALUATION BRIEF CONDUCTED BY AN INDEPENDENT PERSONAL CARE RESEARCH & TECHNOLOGY LABORATORY MARCH 18, 2016 VS. OLAPLEX

2 OVERVIEW Performance of the system Step 1 and 2 was evaluated and compared to the Step 1 and 2 for color development, color retention after multiple wash cycles, shine, and tensile strength instrumentally. Both products were also tested in an independent, third-party salon on a panelist by licensed cosmetologists. Performance was evaluated from a hair dye system. The color development and colorwashfastness of the dyed hair tresses were measured and compared using the Spectrocolorimeter (LabScan XE, Hunter Lab) before and after the initial dye-out and treatment with Step 2, then after 5, 10 and 15 shampoo wash cycles. The shine was evaluated using the SAMBA Color Image System after initial dye-out and treatment with Step 2, then after 2 and 5 shampoo wash cycles. Tensile strength of the dyed and treated hair fibers was measured using the Laser Scan Micrometer and MTT-670 (Dia-Stron) prior to any shampoo washing. FORMULATIONS Nubond Step 1 Nubond Step 2 Step 1 Step 2 INSTRUMENTS LabScan XE Spectrocolorimeter, Hunter Lab. SAMBA Color Image System. Bossa Nova Technologies. VENICE, CA Dia-Stron Automatic Assembly System Model 1600 Dia-Stron Laser Scan Micrometer Model FDAS770 Dia-Stron MTT-670 with Autosampler Camera Nikon D

3 EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDURE Hair Dyeing Procedure, Color Development, Color Washfastness & Shine Measurements 1. Prepared and cleaned 10 regular bleached hair tresses cut 1.5cm of width and 20cm length for each system: one set of 5 tresses for Nubond and one set of 5 tresses for. Label the hair tresses accordingly. 2. Measured the color indexes of each regular bleached hair tress. 3. Used the L Oreal Superior Preference Medium Auburn 5 MB hair dye. Mixed hair dye and developer (provided in the box) at a 1:1 ratio. Mixed until homogeneous. 4. Then for one set of tresses, mixed equivalent of 3.75 grams of Nubond Step 1 to 4oz. (120g/60g each) of hair dye/developer mixture. Mixed until homogeneous. 5. Dyed each hair tress with the dye/developer/step 1 mixture, controlling the color development time to 30 minutes for each tress. 6. After 30 minutes, rinsed-off each tress under lukewarm tap water until water ran clear off the hair tress. 7. Then applied 2 grams of Nubond Step 2 to each tress, working the product in for 1 minute, then leaving it on for 10 minutes. Then rinsed under lukewarm tap water for 1 minute, and allowed to air dry overnight. 8. Measured the initial color development by measuring the color indexes (L*, a*, b*) of each dyed hair tress. 9. Then for each dyed hair tress, measured the initial shine index BNT using SAMBA Color Image System. Calculated and report the initial shine of the hair tresses. 10. Adjusted tap water to C at a flow rate of ~80LPH with a flow control meter. 11. Wet each hair tress and applied 2g of The independent laboratory s standard global shampoo (a non-conditioning SLES/Betaine shampoo) to the tress, worked the shampoo in for 1 minute, then rinsing the hair tress for 1 minute. During rinsing, combed the tress to detangle. 12. Paper towel blotted each hair tress, then blow dried before the next wash cycle. 13. After 2 cycles of washing and blow-drying, measured the shine index BNT using the SAMBA Color Image System. Then calculated and compared the shine of the hair tresses before and after 2 wash cycles. 14. Continued the color washfastness cycles by repeating steps three more times, then took L*, a*, b* color values and shine index BNT on each hair tress after the completion of 5 wash cycles. 15. Repeated steps five more times for the 10-wash cycles, then measured the L*, a*, b* color values on each hair tress. 16. Repeated steps again 5 more times for a total 15-wash cycles, then measured the L*, a*, b* color values on each hair tress. 3

4 17. Calculated and reported the average change in color indexes before and after 5, 10, and 15 wash cycles. 18. Repeated the same exact protocol listed in Steps 1 through 17 with the System. 19. Compared the color development and washfastness (initial after dye-out, and after 5, 10 and 15 washes) and the shine performance (initial after dye-out, and after 2 and 5 washes) of the tresses treated with the Nubond Step 1 and 2 vs. the tresses treated with the Step 1 and 2 System. COLOR READING AND COLOR DATA ANALYSIS 1. Standardized the instrument first by using the following parameters: Area view: 6.4 mm; Port size: 10.0 mm; UV filter: Norminal 2. Ten L, a, b readings were taken per tress five per side, traveling top to bottom of the exposed portion of the tress. The color data is then recorded. 3. Hair color index was measured with LabScan XE Spectrophotometer using CIE L*, a*, b* system, where L* indicates the darkness, a* the redness, and b* the yellowness of the hair tress, as demonstrated in color solid Figure 1. L, a, b Color Solid 4. Ten color readings were averaged to represent the color index of each hair tress, and calculated color index differences of hair tresses before/after multiple wash cycles (dl*, da*, db*). 4

5 5. The following equations were used to calculate the differences in color indexes: Difference in L (lightness): ΔL = Lt Li Difference in a (red index): Δa = at ai, Difference in b (yellow index): Δb = bt bi Difference in Chromaticity: ΔC = [(at ai) 2 + (bt bi) 2] 1/2 Total Color Difference: ΔE = [(Lt Li) 2 + (at ai) 2 + (bt bi) 2] ½ Where Li, ai, and bi refer to the initial average values obtained; Lt, at, and bt refer to the average values of the same hair tress obtained after multiple shampoo washes. 6. Calculated the total color change (DE*) and total change in chromaticity (dc*) of each dyed hair tress shampoo washed after 5, 10 and 15 wash cycles. If the calculated Δa is positive, it signifies that the hair is getting redder after washing compared with the original color. If Δa is negative, the hair is getting greener (or less red). If the calculated Δb is positive, the hair is getting yellower after wash cycles. If Δb is negative, the hair is getting bluer (or less yellow). The ΔE reflects the total color change of the hair tress after multiple wash cycles. The larger the value of ΔE, the more total color change after shampoo washes. The ΔC reflects the total change in chromaticity of the hair tress after washing. The larger the value of ΔC, the more overall color loss after multiple shampoo washes. SHINE MEASUREMENT 1. Measured the shine index, BNT and Chroma lustre overlapping using SAMBA Color Image System of each dyed hair tress and after 2 and 5 shampoo washes. 2. Calculated the BNT of the hair tresses for Nubond and auburn dyed hair systems then compared the results. The higher the shine index of the dyed hair, the shinier the hair appears. METHOD FOR TENSILE STRENGTH MEASUREMENTS 1. From the hair dyed and treated with Nubond Step 1 and Step 2, prior to any shampoo washing, randomly selected 30 hair fibers and labeled them accordingly. 2. Also selected 30 dyed hair fibers treated with the Step 1 and Step 2 and labeled them accordingly. 3. Crimped the hair fibers using Dia-Stron Automatic Assembly System Model Layed each of the crimped hair fibers in the Dia-Stron Laser Scan Micrometer (FDAS770) to determine its center diameter and center cross-sectional area and saved the data. 5. Layed the crimped hair fibers in the sample cassette. Made sure the crimp tags are sitting down in the pockets. 5

6 6. Placed the Autosampler in a chamber with constant Temperature (23 C) and Relative Humidity (45%) for 60 minutes of equilibrium before testing. 7. Measured and reported the following tensile properties for each set of hair fibers treated with the Nubond and systems using the Dia-Stron MTT-670: a. Young s Modulus, which is a measure of the elastic properties of the hair. b. Stress-to-break, which is the force per unit cross-sectional area at the break point of the hair fiber. c. Strain-to-break, or the % extension at the break point of the hair fiber. 8. Calculated average Young s Modulus, stress-to-break, strain-to-break, and standard deviation for each dye system and did a t-test to see if there are statistically significant differences between these two hair dye systems. The higher the Young s Modulus, the larger the force (per unit of cross-sectional area) needed to extend the hair fiber for example like a spring. Therefore, a high Young s Modulus would mean that the hair is stiffer within the cortex (less elastic). The higher the Stress-to-Break, the larger the force (per unit of cross-sectional area) needed to break the hair fiber. Strain-to-Break is the extension (%) at the break point of hair fiber. The larger the Strain-to-Break, the longer the extension at the break point. 6

7 SHINE DATA Differentiation in shine between the two sets of tresses after dye development was most prevalent after 5 shampoo washes. The tresses dyed and treated with the system demonstrated better shine effect compared to the tresses dyed and treated the hair dye system through 5 shampoo washes. These results show that the Nubond system provides longer lasting shine through numerous washes. Statistical analysis indicates that there was slight difference in shine between the two sets of tresses after dye development leading to the fifth shampoo wash. After Dye-Out = = 2 Wash Cycles Wash Cycles + - Average Shine Index 7

8 COLOR DATA Color indexes were measured between and -treated hair to help determine color development and color retention qualities after multiple wash cycles. The following key will help clarify the individual data being represented in the charts on the following pages. dl: Average difference in lightness in hair color. da: A verage difference in red present in hair color. If this is a positive number, it signifies that the hair is getting redder after washing compared with the original color. If this is negative, the hair is getting greener (or less red). db: A verage difference in yellow present in hair color. If this is a positive number, it signifies that the hair is getting yellower after washing compared with the original color. If this is negative, the hair is getting bluer (or less yellow). DE: O verall color change after shampoo washes. dc: T otal change in chromaticity of the hair tress after washing. The larger this value, the more overall color loss after multiple shampoo washes. Hair Dyed with Nubond and Step 1 & Treated with Step 2 8 Hair Dyed and Treated with Nubond and Systems after 10 Shampoo Washes Hair Dyed and Treated with Nubond and Systems after 5 Shampoo Washes Hair Dyed and Treated with Nubond and Systems after 10 Shampoo Washes

9 After dye-out, the average color changes between and were very close, indicating minimal statistical differences and comparable color development performance. After 5 wash cycles, all color indexes were still very close, indicating that there was comparable change in color for both and. 9

10 After 10 wash cycles, the statistical analysis indicates that the tresses treated with the demonstrated more red (da) and yellow (db) compared to. Other indexes remained close. 8 Average Change in Color Index dl da db DE dc After 15 wash cycles, demonstrated slightly more red (da) and yellow (db) compared to. Other indexes remained very close. 10

11 TENSILE STRENGTH DATA The average changes of Young s modulus, stress-to-break, and strain-to-break of the hair tresses dyed and treated with the Nubond and can be seen below. It can be seen that the Nubond system showed increases in Young s modulus, stress-to-break, and strain-to-break compared to the system. The statistical analysis indicated the most significant difference was in Young s modulus between the Nubond and system, meaning that with Nubond, the hair possessed improved elasticity and bendability, thus representing penetration to the cortex. Young s Modulus + - Stress-to-Break = = Strain-to-Break = = 11

12 SALON EVALUATION At an independent, third-party salon, a cosmetologist and panelist evaluated the performance of both and when applied with a color service. Overall, the results show that both the cosmetologist and the panelist preferred the system. Final Evaluation: After application of Step 1 and Step 2, shampoo washed the whole head with an the independent laboratory s global shampoo and applied the independent laboratory s global conditioner, then evaluated both sides. Spreadability = = Absorption = = Rinseability = = Detangling + - Wet Combing + - Wet Feel + - Wet Residue - + Dry Combing (body) + - Dry Combing (ends) + - Static Control = = Dry Feel (body) + - Dry Feel (ends) + - Dry Residue - + Dry Sheen + - Softness + - Bounce/Body - + Volume - + The information in this report is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is made. Suggestions for uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made with respect to information or products including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness for a particular purpose, non-infringement of any third party patent or other intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright, trademark and designs. These results were generated based on the protocols highlighted in this report. Any modification made to these will invalidate the results contained in this report. 12