Hair Repair & Protection: What Works Best?

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1 Hair Repair & Protection: What Works Best? Belinda Carli Director, Institute of Personal Care Science

2 Overview: How heat protecting agents work DURING styling Comparison of heat protection materials How repair agents work AFTER damage Comparison of repair agents

3 Hair Bonding: Hydrogen Bonding Electrostatic Linkage Disulphide Bond

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5 Heat Activated Repair how? Heat activated protective film High molecular weight polymer backbone + hydrophilic portions Damaged hair exposes hydrophilic portions = adsorption with hydrophilic portion of polymer Polymeric backbone heat activated to form film Different materials use different polymeric backbones + hydrophilic adsorptive materials = different performance results

6 Heat Activated Repair how?

7 Heat Activated Repair favourites Tests on Asian (permed) and Caucasian (bleached) hair >20cm long Real hair real conditions Same base gel product 1mL/5cm 2 1 section straightened; 1 section curled: 3 passes GHD styler 25ºC, 55%RH; evaluated over 4 hours Tested for: Heat protection Frizz reduction Curl retention

8 Heat Activated Repair favourites: Best Heat Protection Merquat 2001 (Lubrizol) Water soluble polyquaternium-47 Suited to pump sprays, setting lotions/cremes/gels, aerosol & pump mouse, hair treatment Excellent heat protection + reduced frizz NO STYLING hold

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10 Heat Activated Repair favourites: Good Heat Protection (Caucasian) + Straight Hold Luviquat Supreme AT 1(BASF Care Creations) Water soluble polyquaternium-68 Suited to pump sprays, setting lotions/cremes/gels, aerosol & pump mouse, hair treatment Excellent heat protection + reduced frizz Excellent hair feel Holds straight styles

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13 Heat Activated Repair favourites: Good Heat Protection + Hold (Caucasian) RevCare Natural Effects (Itaconix) Natural sources; INCI: sodium polyitaconate Suited to pump sprays, setting lotions/cremes/gels, aerosol & pump mouse, hair treatment Excellent heat protection + reduced frizz Holds straight and curly styles even in humid environment Suits naturally derived claims

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15 Heat Activated Repair favourites BEST ALL ROUND! Baycusan C1008 (Covestro) Water based polyurethane-48 polymer Suited to aerosol & pump sprays, setting lotions/cremes/gels, aerosol & pump mouse, hair treatment Expands with heat; shrinks on cooling Flexible, strong hold + high humidity resistance

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18 How repair agents work AFTER damage Fill gaps of damaged hair Replaces hair mass = improved strength Reduces frizz + improves humidity control by reducing conductivity Light film forming/protects hair at the surface Seals in moisture

19 How repair agents work AFTER damage Favourites: Fision Aquashield (Tri-K) INCI: Water, Acetamide MEA, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Panthenol, Glycerine, Sorbitol, Sodium Cocoyl Collagen Amino Acids, Cocoyl Sarcosine, Wheat Germ Acid, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil, Polysorbate 20, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Tocopherol, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polysorbate 80, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans Osmotic regulator, hydrolysed proteins & amino acids, EFAs, Vitamin E & B5 Weightless after feel (no residue)

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22 How repair agents work AFTER damage Favourites: AlphaImprove 4D Hair (Citroleo) Rich in behenic and lauric acid Weightless after feel (no residue)

23 How repair agents work AFTER damage Favourites: Baobab Tein NPNF (Tri-K) INCI: Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Seed Protein Protects from heat and UV damage Community benefits and sustainability

24 Questions? Comments? LEADERS in DISTANCE and ON-LINE training Cosmetic Formulation, Brand Management, Regulatory Affairs Certificate and Diploma level We bring the training to YOU Flexible study at your home or work