Particle Characterization for Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals

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1 Particle Characterization for Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals Ian Treviranus

2 What we ll talk about Featured technologies Importance to industry Application examples Q&A

3 Your interests Available technologies How to accurately, reproducibly measure nanoparticles Best practices Zeta potential Pastes Data interpretation (webinars TR008, TR010, TR015)

4 Featured technologies LA-950 / LA-300 Laser Diffraction SZ-100 Dynamic Light Scattering & Zeta Potential CAMSIZER & CAMSIZER XT Dynamic Image Analysis PSA300 Static Image Analysis SA-9600 Flowing Gas BET Surface Area

$LA-950: Laser Diffraction Particle size performance leader Ninth generation Ultra durable$

5 LA-950: Laser Diffraction Particle size performance leader Ninth generation Ultra durable Lowest total cost of ownership Suspension, emulsion, powder, paste, gel 10 nanometer 3 mm

6 SZ-100: Nanoparticle Analyzer Size:.3 nm - 8 µm 90 and 173 Zeta potential: mv Patented carbon coated electrodes Molecular weight: 1x10 3-2x10 7 g/mol Nanoparticles Colloids Proteins Emulsions Disperison stability

zeta = unstable, aggregate Zeta potential/m V 60 50 40 30

7 Zeta Potential: Dispersion Stability, IEP Measures particle surface charge High zeta potential = stable Low zeta = unstable, aggregate Zeta potential/m V ph

8 What we ll talk about Featured technologies Importance to industry Application examples Q&A

9 Why Do We Care? Particle size affects Texture/skin feel Color density/tint Smoothness Powder flow/compaction Zeta potential tells us Product stability

10 Particles in Cosmetics Any product containing a powder Pigments, talc, mica Emulsions (creams, lotions) Liposomes; simple, complex Types of cosmetics containing particles (emulsion droplets)

11 Original Foundation: Pan-Cake Foundation and powder in one Base was talc (particle), not oil or wax Applied with wet sponge Patent in 1937 By in 3 N American women owned & wore Pan- Cake

12 Create our Own Product Base Talc, rice powder Pigment Iron oxide Filler Clay Glitter Mica SPF TiO2 They re all particles! Can measure size of all using one system: LA-950

13 Measure Powders as Powders Simplify dispersing Quick, easy, clean Measure in natural state for more actionable results Lower costs Webinar TE016: Optimizing Dry Powder Measurements

14 Reduce Solvent Use MiniFlow Fraction Cell Fully automated pumping system 40 ml total volume Built-in ultrasonic probe Application Note 176: Minimizing Sample Quantity 5, 10, 15 ml volume Needs only micrograms

15 LA-950 Method Expert Unique guided method development Optimize parameters Choose the best refractive index Create one button SOPs

16 What we ll talk about Featured technologies Importance to industry Application examples Q&A

17 Base: Rice Powder

18 Iron Oxide 170 Shade LA-950 wet accessories Disperse powder into a liquid Can measure down to 30 nm Use ultrasound?

19 Gold Glitter Powder Measure wet + dry, choose preferred Verify correct P for dry powder feeder Wet Dry

20 Mica

21 Quality Control / Troubleshoot

22 Kaolin Clay Note: small % below 100 nm, making this a nanoparticle. Safety concerns?

23 Sunscreen with TiO2 Powder dispersed in water using surfactant and ultrasound. Note: 14.5% < 100nm Safety concerns?

24 Measure without dilution Concern that dilution in anything but perfect background will change PSD Possible solution with Paste Cell accessory Small amount of paste/gel/cream between two glass plates

25 ZnO used in sunscreen

tissue and cell cultures Suggests banning all cosmetics with

26 Nanoparticle Safety: Cosmetics Preliminary scientific research has shown that many types of nanoparticles can be toxic to human tissue and cell cultures Suggests banning all cosmetics with particles <100nm Many sunscreens contain ZnO or TiO2 particles <100 nm

27 Nanoparticle Safety NGO Friends of the Earth issue report requesting ban on all skin care products w/particles <100nm Claim: some nanoparticles are dangerous, so ban all Industry claims some nanoparticles are safe, so don t worry FDA says we only believe data in peer reviewed journals, but form task force to investigate In 2012 Cosmetics manufacturers must notify European Commission of any nanoscale materials in products

28 Stability Want stable dispersion Either suspensions or emulsions Suspensions sediment & flocculate Emulsions phase separate, creaming or coalescence good good bad bad

29 Skin Cream Emulsion w/spf 15

30 Liposome Delivery Active ingredient Penetrates into skin Liposome approaches skin barrier layer Liposome fuses with skin barrier layer Liposome dissolves & releases actives (retinol?)

31 Liposome Size & Stability Nanoparticle Size Zeta Potential

32 Multiple Technologies

33 Retinol Formulation - Delivery Retinol contained in the core space of the vesicle which has a mean diameter of 10~50nm Useful for improving skin health

34 Summary Many cosmetic products either powder (particle) based, or contain powders Wide range of applications measured by laser diffraction DLS for nanoparticle size and zeta potential Quantify sub-100 nm with either technology

See you at NYSCC Annual suppliers event May 13-14 Edison, NJ

35 See you at NYSCC Annual suppliers event May Edison, NJ HORIBA has an office there! Booth 520 Say hi! to Mitch & Dan

36 ありがとうございました اش ك ر Tacka dig ขอบค ณคร บ Gracias Σας ευχαριστούμε धन यव द 감사합니다 Danke Большое спасибо 谢谢 Grazie நன ற Obrigado

www.horiba.com/particle Ian Treviranus Product Line Manager ian.treviranus@horiba.

37 Ian Treviranus Product Line Manager Talk to us, ask questions Receive news of updates View application & technical notes (170+), webinars (70+), white papers.

Date: Draft: 3 PR #: Zinc oxide, ultraviolet protection, sunscreen, particle size distribution. - copy starts -

Date: Draft: 3 PR #: Zinc oxide, ultraviolet protection, sunscreen, particle size distribution. - copy starts - Date: 11.07.00 Draft: 3 PR #: 495-99 Article Keywords: Zinc oxide, ultraviolet protection, sunscreen, particle size distribution Word count: 1492 Photographs: to be arranged - copy starts - Particle size