22 Accelerating skin renewal

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1 Contents COSSMA 9/ Accelerating skin renewal 03 Editorial 26 Exciting mask formulations inspired by the Korean mask hype 10 MARKETS & COMPANIES 10 News 12 GO FUTURE: FACIAL CARE 12 Júlia Comas, Cristina Davi, Elena Cañadas, Sandra Méndez, Raquel Delgado, Lipotec: Communication is key 16 Angela Kleiner, Croda Germany and Sederma Germany, Dr Elisabeth Streefland, Croda Germany: Visible skin smoothing 12 Improved communication within the cells 22 Harald van der Hoeven, CLR (Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter): Accelerating skin renewal 26 Petra Schlegel, Magalie Cabannes, Greentech: Sorbet-style masks & more 28 Emmanuelle Moeglin, Mintel: International launches 30 INGREDIENTS 30 Dr Pierre Germain, CES-Silicones Europe: Are silicones good or bad? 34 Formulations: Body care 35 Ingredients news 36 Anne Janssen, Dr Jochen Klock, DSM: More appealing sun care products 40 SPOTLIGHT: WATER 40 Heike Störmer-Kuk, SpringPool: Inspired by water 42 Waterless innumerable concepts 4 l COSSMA 9 I

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3 Contents COSSMA 9/ An emulsifier for more appealing sun care products 44 PACKAGING 30 Facts about silicones 44 Luxe Pack: Customisation a very special luxury 48 Sponge tubes and more 51 Packaging news 52 Interview with Carsten Wolansky, Awantys: A star is born 54 Karl Hartstock-Martin, Geka: Creating new gestures 56 PERSONALITIES & PROFILES 56 I nterview with Cornelia Hanel and Jürgen Geisler, Dr. Grandel: The nitty-gritty of exports 58 People 60 SERVICES 08 Download List 40 Water as a source of inspiration 60 BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH: International inspiration 61 Events Diary 62 Suppliers Guide 65 Advertisers Index 66 Masthead Page 66 Preview Front cover picture: Dr. Grandel 6 l COSSMA 9 I

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5 SERVICES Free Downloads for Subscribers CLICK THROUGH OUR WEB TV CLIPS: BIRGIT HUBER Deputy Director General at IKW informs about the latest challenges in cosmetics legislation. DAVID TYRELL Global Skin Care Analyst, Mintel talks about the latest trends in trends in the US skin care market. COSSMA DOWNLOAD-TIP IN SEPTEMBER Innovations such as a new approach to facial masks were under the spotlight at this year s In-Cosmetics in Paris. So were groundbreaking formulations as Imogen Matthews points out in her article from COSSMA 8/2016. Inolex presented Bouncy Mask, a water gel formulation that glides on and has a soft powdery finish. DOWNLOADS Additional information at Your access codes for September: User name: cossma9 Password: face Top-Downloads for September ORU MOHIUDDIN Senior Analyst, Beauty & Personal Care, Euromonitor highlights recent trends in multicultural beauty. REFERENCES COMPANIES BACKGROUND FORMULATION Preservation (Dr. Straetmans) L Occitane Brand Test design anti-pollution actives (proderm) FrizzFight Cream (Covestro) DR MONIKA KOPRA-SCHÄFER Tube Expert points out the major milestones in the 175-year history of flexible tubes. LOG IN AND TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE! On the COSSMA web site we post lots of additional information elated to the topics covered in the magazine. You will find MORE THAN 1,000 USEFUL ADDITIONAL ITEMS to extend your knowledge and understanding: more information on the ingredients and finished products that we cover, market data and statistics, supplier listings, literature references, scientific articles, product formulations and useful base informations. Take a look right now, at photo: Alvibone, Shutterstock.com 8 l COSSMA 9 I

6 We know our farmers. And we invite you to know them too. PhytoTrace extracts offer complete supply-chain transparency, from growers whose care for their terroir is matched only by the ideal growing climate of Provence, France. LOCAL SUSTAINABLE TRACEABLE

7 SERVICES FAIRS, CONFERENCES 2016 AND SEMINARS WHEN? WHAT? WHERE? WHO? In-Cosmetics New York Reed Exhibitions North America USA MakeUp New York Beauteam in New York USA Basisseminar zum Frankfurt a.m. IKW e. V. Kosmetikrecht Germany Fortbildungsveranstaltung Frankfurt a.m. IKW e. V. zur Kosmetik-GMP Germany Intensive Course in Brussels Vrije Universiteit Brussel Dermato-Cosmetic Sciences Belgium ADF: Aerosol & Dispensing Forum New York Easyfairs Oriex PCD: Packaging of Perfume USA New York Edition Workshop: Innovationsmanagement Berlin DVI e. V. für Verpackungen Germany DGK-Workshop: Tübingen DGK e.v. Galenik, Liberation und Wirkung Germany Packaging Innovations London Easyfairs Great Britain Sustainable Cosmetics São Paulo Organic Monitor Summit Latin America Brasilien Internationales Markenkolloquium Seeon Mandat Switzerland Happi Anti-Aging Conference & New Brunswick Happi Tabletop Exhibition USA conference.happi.com Regulations & Safety Munich Fleming in Cosmetics Conference Germany HPCI Conference Turkey Istanbul SOFW Middle East and Eurasia Turkey Luxe Pack Monte Carlo Idice SAS Luxe Formulation Monaco Beyond Beauty Asean Bangkok Informa Thailand BEAUTY FORUM & SPA POLAND Warsaw Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.z.o. Poland HAIR FORUM POLAND Warsaw Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.z.o. Poland The Makeup Show Dallas Dallas The Makeup Show USA DGK/IKW Seminar for Warsaw DGK e. V./IKW e. V. Safety Assessors Poland Advances in Skin Science, Princeton TRI Princeton Measurement and Treatment USA Natural Cosmetics Congress Berlin naturkosmetik verlag Germany CosmeticBusiness Poland Warsaw Leipziger Messe GmbH Poland Karlsruher Kosmetiktag Karlsruhe CVUA Karlsruhe Germany l 61

8 E / 2016 COSMETICS SPRAY TECHNOLOGY MARKETING C. Hanel and J. Geisler, Dr. Grandel EXPORT PROMOTION SPOTLIGHT: WATER Inspired by water GO FUTURE: FACIAL CARE Communicating for a younger complexion AT ITS BEST DR PIERRE GERMAIN from CES Silicones: Is all the media fuss justified?

03 Editorial. 10 News 12 GO FUTURE: STYLING 22 INGREDIENTS 42 BACKGROUND

03 Editorial. 10 News 12 GO FUTURE: STYLING 22 INGREDIENTS 42 BACKGROUND Contents 10/2016 16 Creative concepts for colour cosmetics 03 Editorial 10 MARKETS & COMPANIES 26 Anti-pollution bioactive for smoother and firmer skin 10 News 12 GO FUTURE: STYLING 12 Petra Kudla and

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