Different hair types, perfect conditioning. Specific solutions for hair.

Transcription

1 Different hair types, perfect conditioning. Specific solutions for hair.

2 Specialized hair conditioning Today s hair types require individual solutions. The variety of hair differs around the globe, from curly to straight and from thin to thick. Additionally, differences in the climate have to be managed. Several treatments, like coloring and straightening the hair, cause various degrees of damage to the hair. Beautiful looking hair is important for self confidence and requires appropriate care with the right shampoo and conditioner. The demand on modern conditioning ingredients is to fulfill consumer needs of high convenience combined with high performance. Our conditioning agents are made to smoothen, protect, volumize and refresh hair and keep or bring it to its best condition. Evonik s portfolio covers professional conditioning agents to evolve the beauty of every hair type. Explore our product range to find out which product is right for your hair. Contents Page Today s hair conditioning Consumers hair types & demands Conditioning agents Benefits for individual needs Test results Conditioning 11 Sustainable conditioning Color care, Volume, UV light protection Anti hair breakage, Heat protection, Gloss Conditioning map Shampoo 18 Conditioner 19 Conditioner table Silicone conditioning agents 20 Organic conditioning agents 22 Formulation ideas 24-27

3 Global hair types and their specific conditioning demands fine Wet feel Detangling / wet comb Dry combing force reduced Dry combing force increased Dry feel Gloss / shine Hold of hairstyle (reduced curl droop) Antistatic effect Straightening effect (weighing down) Volume / body Wash fastness / color protection UV protection Heat protection virgin permed dyed normal virgin Caucasian Fine to medium texture and can be straight, wavy or curly. Oval cross section with color ranging from dark brown to light blond. Due to its thin diameter, volume is the most desired wish. grey/white permed dyed straight Asian On average, it is the thickest hair compared to other ethnic hair types. Typically straight with a round cross section. Color varies from medium brown to black. Gloss and straightening effect desired. Hispanic / Mulatto Medium to thick textured hair, which can be wavy or have a more defined curl. Color typically light to dark brown. Frizz and manageability is a necessity to maintain desired effect. virgin permed dyed curly virgin straightened dyed African Afro-textured, tightly coiled, spiral or kinky. Color ranges from dark brown to black and has an elliptical cross section. Due to its tightly coiled shape, sebum is unable to spread evenly along the hair fiber. Therefore, oil treatments are common. kinky virgin straightened dyed essential important 04 05

4 Conditioning agents Evonik comprehensive portfolio of conditioning agents Organmodified silicones Organics Silicone type Structure Trade name INCI name Conc. % Quat type Structure Trade name INCI name Conc. % Silicone Quat cationic ABIL T Quat 60 Silicone Quaternium-22 ~65 Monoalkyl n = 1 or 7 N Cl VARISOFT 300 VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets Cetrimonium Chloride Behentrimonium Chloride ~30 ~85 Silicone Quat microemulsion cationic ABIL ME 45 Silicone Quaternium-22; Polygyceryl-3 Caprate; Dipropylene Glycol; Cocamidopropyl Betaine ~30 Dialkyl n = 1 or 3 N Cl VARISOFT 432 PPG VARISOFT TA 100 Dicetyldimonium Chloride Distearyldimonium Chloride ~70 ~99 Silicone Quat cationic ABIL Quat 3272 Quaternium-80 ~50 Esterquat O R O N O O R X VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets VARISOFT EQ 100 Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride; Cetearyl Alcohol Quaternium-98 (proposed) ~65 ~99 O Aminofunctional Silicone ABIL Soft AF 100 NH 2 Methoxy PEG/PPG-7/3 Aminopropyl Dimethicone ~99 N N MeOSO Imidazolinium R N 3 VARISOFT W 575 PG Quaternium-87 ~75 H R (R = C 15 - C 17 ) Silicone Betaine amphoteric ABIL B 9950 Dimethicone Propyl PG- Betaine ~30 Cl O Amidoquat N N VARISOFT PATC H Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride ~60 Silicone UV Quat cationic UV abs. UV abs. ABIL UV Quat 50 Polysilicone-19 ~50 O Amidoamine N N TEGO Amid S 18 H Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine ~99 Alkyl Polyether Silicone 06 07

5 Our best choice of products and their benefits for individual hair needs Conditioning rinse Conditioning shampoo Conditioning rinse Conditioning shampoo Detangling, wet combability VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets VARISOFT EQ 100 VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets VARISOFT 432 PPG ABIL Quat 3272 VARISOFT EQ 100 Volume/body TEGO Amid S 18 VARISOFT W 575 PG ABIL Soft AF 100 ABIL Soft AF 100 ABIL B 9950 Synergistic combinations of organic quats plus Straightening/weighing down effect Elevated use levels of: VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets VARISOFT 432 PPG VARISOFT EQ 100 VARISOFT EQ 100 Wet feel VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets VARISOFT EQ 100 VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets VARISOFT 432 PPG ABIL Quat 3272 VARISOFT EQ 100 Synergistic combinations of organic quats plus Synergistic combinations of organic quats plus Anti-fly-away/antistatic VARISOFT W 575 PG VARISOFT TA 100 VARISOFT 300 TEGO Amid S 18 ABIL Soft AF 100 Dry combability (improved) VARISOFT TA 100 VARISOFT 432 PPG Synergistic combination of organic quats plus ABIL Quat 3272 Style retention/anti-frizz ABIL Soft AF 100 (reduced weighing down) VARISOFT TA 100 VARISOFT 432 PPG Dry combability (reduced = improvement of hold) Dry feel VARISOFT W 575 PG VARISOFT PATC TEGO Amid S 18 VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets VARISOFT EQ 100 VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets VARISOFT PATC Synergistic combinations of organic quats plus ABIL Soft AF 100 Color care VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets ABIL UV Quat 50 Heat protection Anti hair breakage ABIL UV Quat 50 ABIL B 9950 Gloss / shine TEGO Amid S

6 Specialized hair care Conditioning As an innovative and reliable partner in hair care, Evonik Personal Care focuses on creating ingredients with superior features while maintaining consistent quality. We set great value upon the effectiveness of our high-end products and we constantly work on developing new hair conditioning ingredients. Based on profound expertise and qualified test methods, Evonik Personal Care has established a conditioner portfolio that addresses the following consumer needs: ABIL ME 45 Premium conditioning Sensory assessment shampoo application score (5=best) Detangling Wet comb Wet feel Test formula: shampoo 9.0% Sodium Laureth Sulfate 3.0% Cocamidopropyl Betaine 0.2% PQ-10 varying % a.m. Silicone Quat 0.5% NaCl 2.5% ANTIL 171 ad 100% water, ph = 5.5 ABIL ME 45 shows excellent conditioning performance Conditioning Color care UV protection Volume Anti hair breakage Heat protection Gloss PQ % a.m. ABIL ME 45 PQ % a.m. ABIL ME 45 PQ-10 Control VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets Excellent conditioning Wet combability - hair sensory results Control VARISOFT 432 PPG TEGO Amid S 18 VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets VARISOFT W 575 PG VARISOFT TA 100 VARISOFT PATC VARISOFT 300 (CTAC) Score difference to CTAC (%) Test formula: rinse 0.5 % Ceteareth % Cetyl Alcohol 1.0 % active conditioning agent ad 100% water, ph = 5 Best wet comb scoring for VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets Statistically different to CTAC (Duncan Multiple Range Test) 10 11

7 VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets Sustainable conditioning VARISOFT EQ 100 Premium sustainable conditioning Half-head test results (score difference) - VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets vs. CTAC Half-head test results (score difference) VARISOFT EQ 100 vs. BTAC Rinseability Wet comb CTAC better VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets better Test formula: rinse 0.5% Ceteareth % Cetearyl Alcohol 2.0% active Quat ad 100% water, ph = 4.5 Skin feel Rinseability BTAC better VARISOFT EQ 100 better Test formula: rinse 0.5% Ceteareth % Cetearyl Alcohol 1.0% active Quat ad 100% water, ph = 4.1 Wet feel Skin feel after rinse Dry comb Dry feel VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets outperforms Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC) Detangling wet Wet comb VARISOFT EQ 100 outperforms Behentrimonium Chloride (BTAC) Curl retention Wet feel Shine Detangling dry Body/volume Dry comb Antistatic Dry feel Managebility Curl retention Build-up directly Shine Build-up later Body/volume Antistatic Managebility Conducted externally by an independent test institute (2007) Build-up directly Build-up later Conducted externally by an independent test institute (06/14) 12 13

8 Color care ABIL UV Quat 50, ABIL ME 45, ABIL T Quat 60 Improved color wash fastness Volume ABIL Soft AF 100 Improved volume Color wash fastness shampoo application Sensory assessment - volume/body 20 x washing 15 x washing 10 x washing 5 x washing Color fading Test formula: shampoo 9.0% Sodium Laureth Sulfate 3.0% Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1.0% active Silicone Quat 0.2% Polyquaternium % NaCl 2.5% ANTIL 171 ad 100% water, ph = 5.5 ABIL UV Quat 50 and ABIL ME 45 improve the color wash fastness properties of shampoos. ABIL T Quat 60 provides good wash fastness Control Cetrimonium Chloride Behentrimonium Chloride Distearyldimonium Chloride ABIL Soft AF 100 Cetrimonium Chloride + ABIL Soft AF 100 Behentrimonium Chloride + ABIL Soft AF 100 Distearyldimonium Chloride + ABIL Soft AF 100 Test formula: rinse 0.5% Ceteareth % Cetyl Alcohol 2.0% active conditioning agent (combination 1% + 1%) ad 100% water, ph = 4.0 +/- 0.3 ABIL Soft AF 100 compensates negative impact on volume caused by organic Quats ΔE-value (the smaller, the better) score (5 = best) ABIL UV Quat 50 ABIL T Quat 60 ABIL ME 45 Control ABIL UV Quat 50 Color protection against UV fading UV protection Color fading measurements Control (Guar Quat) ABIL UV Quat 50 Color fading after irridation with sun simulator ΔE-value (the smaller, the better) Test formula: shampoo 9.0% Sodium Laureth Sulfate 3.0% Cocamidopropyl Betaine 0.5% active Silicone Quat 0.15% Cationic Quat ad 100% water, ph = 5.5 +/- 0.2 ABIL UV Quat provides up to 50% reduction in color fading ABIL UV Quat 50 Excellent UV protection of hair fibers Tensile strength test results Decrease of hair strength vs. undamaged hair, after irridation with sun simulator Control CTAC Test formula: rinse 0.5% Ceteareth % Cetyl Alcohol 2.0% active Quat ad 100% water, ph = 4.0 +/- 0.3 ABIL UV Quat Δ-Load 15% (mn/mm 2 ) ABIL UV Quat 50 provides approx. 40% protection against damaging UV light 14 15

9 Anti hair breakage Gloss ABIL T Quat 60 ABIL ME 45 Reduced hair fiber breakage Improved hair gloss Hair breakage Samba gloss measurements Number of broken fibers after brushing strokes Test formula: shampoo 9.0% Sodium Laureth Sulfate 2.5% Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1.0% active Silicone Quat 0.3% PQ % Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride (VARISOFT PATC) 0.9% REWODERM LI S % NaCl ad 100% water, ph = 5.5 Gloss improvement (%) * Test formula: conditioner UL 5737/5 4.5% Cetearyl Alcohol 3.0% Aminopropyl Dimethicone 3.0% ABIL ME % Oleyl Erucate 2.0% VARISOFT TA 100 ad 100% water 1.50% VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets 2.0% Glycerin 0.25% Citric Acid, 30% Control shampoo Benchmark silicone emulsion shampoo Silicone Quaternium-16 ABIL T Quat 60 shampoo ABIL T Quat 60 conditioner Test formula: conditioner 0.5% Ceteareth % Cetyl Alcohol 1.0% active ABIL T Quat 60 ad 100% water, ph = UL 5737/5 w/o ABIL ME 45 UL 5737/5 * Statistically differerent to control (T-Test) ABIL ME 45 improves gloss significantly out of a conditioner application Mean Mean±SE Mean±SD Conducted by external test institute (2012) Formulations containing ABIL T Quat 60 significantly reduce hair fiber breakage Heat protection ABIL ME 45 Excellent heat protection Heat protection conditioning rinse ABIL ME 45 + CTAC DSC measurement Test formula: rinse 0.5% Ceteareth % Cetyl Alcohol 1.0% CTAC 0.0/1.0% a.m. Silicone Quat ad 100.0% water, ph = 4 CTAC Keratin denaturation temperature [ C] ABIL ME 45 provides significant heat protection (Ø 75%) 9x10 sec 3x10 sec blank, non straightened Treatment with flattening iron at 200 C 16 17

10 Conditioning map Degree of conditioning can be adjusted by usage concentration Shampoo Conditioner Thick, coarse Thick, coarse ABIL ME 45 ABIL ME 45 VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets VARISOFT EQ 100 ABIL T Quat 60 VARISOFT TA 100 VARISOFT 432 PPG Hair type Increasing usage level [%] VARISOFT PATC ABIL Quat 3272 Hair type Increasing usage level [%] VARISOFT 300 VARISOFT PATC ABIL T Quat 60 VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets ABIL Soft AF 100 ABIL B 9950 ABIL Soft AF 100 TEGO Amid S 18 VARISOFT W 575 PG Fine Fine Light conditioning Intensive conditioning Light conditioning Intensive conditioning Increasing level of damage Increasing level of damage 18 19

11 Silicone conditioning agents Physical properties Improvement of Suitable for Product name INCI name Benefits Characteristics Form Active matter [%] Wet comb Wet feel Dry comb Dry feel Volume Gloss Antistatic properties Color protection Heat protection UV protection Conditioner Conditioning shampoo Silicone derivatives ABIL B 9950 Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine - Hair color protection - Volume enhancer - Low thinning effect Conditioning agent for shampoos. Softens and smoothes hair. Improves manageability. Liquid ~30 ABIL Quat 3272 Quaternium-80 - Improved combability - Soft and smooth hair feel Conditioning agent for clear shampoos and shower products. Clearly soluble and compatible with anionics. Pleasant skin feel. No build-up effect. Liquid ~50 ABIL Soft AF 100 Methoxy PEG/PPG-7/3 Aminopropyl Dimethicone - Improved combability - Antistatic effect - Volume enhancer Conditioning agent for shampoos and hair rinses. Self-emulsifying in aqueous systems. Improves synergistically volume properties of alkyl quats. Suitable for clear formulations. No build-up effect. Liquid ~99 ABIL T Quat 60 Silicone Quaternium-22 - Improved combability - Hair fiber protection - Hair heat protection High performance conditioning agent with additional hair fiber protection properties. Low viscosity decreasing effect in surfactant formulas. Highly suitable for clear formulas. No build-up effect. Liquid ~65 ABIL UV Quat 50 Polysilicone-19 - Hair fiber protection - Hair UV protection - Hair color protection Hair fiber protection against damage by UV light: reduced UV fading of dyed hair and reduced damage of hair. Suitable for clear formulations. No build-up effect. Liquid ~50 ABIL ME 45 Silicone Quaternium-22; Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate; Dipropylene Glycol; Cocamidopropyl Betaine - Easy to process - Improved combability - Hair heat protection Outstanding and intensive conditioning properties. Very easy to process microemulsion. Highly suitable for clear surfactant formulations. Highly effective at low concentrations. Liquid ~30 Good test results Superior test results Best test results 20 21

12 Organic conditioning agents Physical properties Improvement of Suitable for Product name INCI name Benefits Characteristics Form Active matter [%] Wet comb Wet feel Dry comb Dry feel Volume Gloss Antistatic properties Color protection Heat protection UV protection Conditioner Conditioning shampoo Alkyl quats VARISOFT 300 Cetrimonium Chloride - Improved combability - Antistatic effect - Cost-efficient Universal conditioning agent. Waterdispersible. Liquid ~30 VARISOFT 432 PPG Dicetyldimonium Chloride - Improved combability - Soft and smooth hair feel - Easy to process Conditioning agent especially suitable for hair treatments. Contains Propylene Glycol. Water-dispersible. Liquid ~70 VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets Behentrimonium Chloride - Soft and smooth hair feel - Antistatic effect - Hair color protection High performance conditioning agent. Excellent wet/dry feel and combing properties. Water-dispersible. Pellets ~85 VARISOFT TA 100 Distearyldimonium Chloride - Soft and smooth hair feel - High active matter - Improved combability Highly active conditioning agent and emulsifier for hair conditioners. Antistatic effect. Powder ~96 Amide and ester derivatives TEGO Amid S 18 Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine - Volume enhancer - Improved combability - Gloss enhancer Conditioning agent and emulsifier for hair rinses and conditioners. Improves wet and dry comb properties. Provides increased body and volume. Flakes ~99 VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride; Cetearyl Alcohol - Improved combability - Soft and smooth hair feel - Rich appearance Environmentally friendly conditioner with substantial biogradability. Primarily vegetable-based material. Pellets ~65 VARISOFT EQ 100 Quaternium-98 (proposed) - Soft and smooth hair feel - Easy to process - Thickening effect in shampoos Excellent condtioning agent especially on wet hair providing superior manageability, lubricity and softness. Primarily vegetablebased material, readily biodegradable. Liquid ~100 VARISOFT PATC Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride - Antistatic effect - Compatible with anionic surfactant - Soft and smooth hair feel Outstanding conditioning agent with excellent antistatic properties. Suitable for clear formulas. Provides thickening effect. Soft paste ~60 VARISOFT W 575 PG Quaternium-87 - Volume enhancer - Antistatic effect - Hair color protection Improves wet and dry combability and provides increased body and volume. Primarily vegetable-based material. Waterdispersible. Liquid ~75 Good test results Superior test results Best test results 22 23

13 Formulation ideas Conditioning rinse for long and fine hair 1 Premium intensive conditioning hair mask for Asian hair 1 Trade name w/w A TEGINACID C (Ceteareth-25) 0.5% TEGO Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 3.0% TEGO Amid S 18 (Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine) 0.7% ABIL Soft AF 100 (Methoxy PEG/PPG-7/3 Aminopropyl Dimethicone) 0.7% VARISOFT W 575 PG (Quaternium-87) 0.9% B Propylene Glycol 1.0% Water ad 100.0% Citric Acid (20% sol. in water) 0.7% Processing 1. Heat phases A and B separately up to C. 2. Combine both phases and homogenize. 3. Cool down while stirring, add the perfume at approximately 40 C. Benefits Especially improves the volume and manageability of long and damaged hair. Trade name w/w A TEGO Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 5.0% Aminopropyl Dimethicone 5.0% ABIL ME 45 (Silicone Quaternium-22; Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate; Dipropylene Glycol; Cocamidopropyl Betaine) 3.3% TEGINACID C (Ceteareth-25) 0.5% VARISOFT P (Quaternium-18 ) 2.0% B TEGOSOFT OER (Oleyl Erucate) 1.0% Argan Oil (Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil) 1.0% C Water ad 100.0% Processing 1. Phase A: Blend ingredients and heat up to C. 2. Phase B: Dissolve the TEGO Cosmo C 100 carefully in the water. Add remaining ingredients. 3. Heat up to C. The VARISOFT EQ 65 has to be melted. 4. Combine phase A and phase B, homogenize for 1 minute, cool down while stirring. 5. Add perfume and preservatives below 45 C. Preservative, perfume q.s. TEGO Cosmo C 100 (Creatine) 1.0% Remarks 1 UK 168/F/5 VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets (Behentrimonium Chloride ) 2.0% VARISOFT EQ 65 Pellets (Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride; Cetearyl Alcohol ) 2.0% ph=5.0; Viscosity (Brookfield 25 C): mpas Citric Acid (30 % sol. in water) 0.3% Benefits Preservative Z Perfume NUTRI, fragrance resources 0.3% q.s. Heavy conditioning for thicker hair types (Asian, Ethnic), or strongly damaged hair. 1 SV 188/

14 Formulation ideas Intensive conditioner with strengthening property for relaxed hair (afro-textured, mulatto hair) 1 Cleansing conditioner/refatting conditioning shampoo (strongly damaged hair, afro-textured hair) 1 Trade name w/w Water ad 100.0% TEGO Cosmo C 100 (Creatine) 1.0% Glycerin 2.0% VARISOFT BT 85 Pellets (Behentrimonium Chloride) 2.0% ABIL ME 45 (Silicone Quaternium-22; Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate; Dipropylene Glycol; Cocamidopropyl Betaine) 1.7% TEGO Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 5.0% Preservative, perfume Citric Acid (30% sol. in water) 0.3% 1 RB q.s. Processing One-phase production: 1. Combine ingredients, heat to 75 C and homogenize. 2. Cool while stirring. 3. Add preservatives and adjust ph to 4.5. Remarks Viscosity (Brookfield 25 C): 7000 mpas Benefits Formulation offers outstanding conditioning properties, while improving hair strength and feel of damaged hair. Trade name w/w A Water ad 100.0% Polyquaternium % Sodium Laureth Sulfate, 28% 10.7% TEGO Betain F 50 (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) 7.9% Glycerin 2.0% B Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 50.0% C VARISOFT EQ 100 (Quaternium-98 (proposed)) 1.0% TEGO Sulfosuccinate DO 75 (Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate) 4.0% Z Preservative, perfume q.s. Processing 1. Blend ingredients of phase A. 2. Blend ingredients of phase B. 3. Combine phase A and phase B, stirr sufficiently (approximately 20 minutes). 4. Add TEGO Sulfosuccinate DO 75, stirr sufficiently (30 minutes). Important Avoid air entrapment Remarks ph=5.8; Viscosity (Brookfield 25 C): 7000 mpas 1 UL 5761/67 Benefits 2-in-1: intensive conditioning and refatting effect plus cleansing and foaming

15 Evonik Industries AG Personal Care Goldschmidtstraße Essen Germany P.O. Box, Essen Phone fax