Session 6. Colouring techniques and problems (part 2) Communication Aftercare advice for clients. Trainer requirements to teach this lesson

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1 Colouring techniques and problems (part 2) Communication Aftercare advice for clients Trainer requirements to teach this lesson For this session you will need the following: Handout.6.1 (2 pages) Slide.6.1 Handout.6.2 Handout.6.3 (2 pages) Handout.6.4 Handout.6.5 (2 pages) Slide.6.5 (3 slides) Handout.6.6 Handout.6.7 Handout.6.8 Handout.6.9 Research.6 Learner Check Session 6 Trainer notes The session will cover: 6.1. How the application and removal of lightener should be adapted to minimise scalp sensitivity and hair damage and how to remove artificial colour 6.2. How to remove bands of colour and how to recolour hair that has had artificial colour removed 6.3. How to recolour hair previously treated with lighteners using pre-pigmentation and permanent colour 6.4. How to correct highlights and lowlights whilst retaining a highlight and lowlight effect 6.5. The types and causes of colour correction problems and how to rectify them 6.6. The potential problems of using colour correction products on previously chemically treated hair Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

2 6.7. How to give clear instructions to those with less technical knowledge and experience 6.8 How to give effective advice and recommendations to clients and how to maintain hair and colour condition 6.9 Products for home use that will benefit the client and those to avoid and why 6.10 How lifestyle can affect the colour correction result 6.11 How the continual use of heated equipment can damage the hair 6.12 The recommended time intervals between colouring and other services Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

3 Colouring techniques and problems (part 2) Communication Aftercare advice for clients 6.1. How the application and removal of lightener should be adapted to minimise scalp sensitivity and hair damage and how to remove artificial colour Remind learners that lighteners should be applied in three stages 1. mid length this is the most resistant area 2. ends may be porous and can develop quickly 3. roots the heat from the body will develop this area the quickest when removing use lukewarm water as the scalp will be tender following the timing guidelines in the manufacturer s instructions will minimise damage to the hair Ref: Handout.6.1 (2 pages) Tell learners that colour removers are also known as: colour strippers decolourants colour reducers Say that manufacturers often supply decolouring products that are specifically designed for use on their own oxidation tints. Emphasise that other colouring materials, for example, compound henna, are incompatible with colour removers. Explain to learners that colour removers are used when the artificial colour is too dark and there are different types available: colour reducers these work by introducing hydrogen into the hair to break down the oxidised colour molecules to make them smaller and allow them to escape from the cortex Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

4 acid colour removers these achieve the required result by shrinking the colour molecules to allow them to get back out through the cuticle bleach based removers these bleach the artificial colour molecules until they become lighter Say that some salons use a bleach bath to lighten artificial colour. Tell learners that this is a cheaper option but it may make the recolouring process more complex because it will bleach the hair s natural pigment as well as the artificial colour. Emphasise that, when removing artificial colour, it is important to advise the client of the damaging effects that may be experienced. Learners should also recommend that no further chemical processes are carried out on the hair as this may cause further damage, possibly hair breakage. Method State that, before applying any colour remover, a full consultation must be carried out and the client must know what is to be done to her hair. The stylist or barber should ensure: all necessary tests are conducted the condition of the hair and scalp are checked the client s clothing is fully protected Say that it is important to wear PPE and to check and follow the manufacturer s instructions. When using hydrogen based reducers: isolate and protect the hair that is not to be treated if any apply the reducer according to manufacturer s instructions check the development frequently when the required result is reached remove it according to manufacturer s instructions pour a weak hydrogen peroxide rinse (1.5% or 5 vol) through the hair to check if the process is effective known as the peroxide test reapply the reducer to any areas that re-oxidise and revert to the dark shade and complete the process as above Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

5 Tell learners that they can repeat using up to three applications of colour remover. Ref: Slide.6.1 Show the slide to illustrate the chemical process that is taking place inside the hair. When using a bleach based colour remover: isolate the hair to be treated ensure that the correct strength of hydrogen peroxide is used by following manufacturer s instructions mix and apply the bleach according to manufacturer s instructions monitor the development by taking frequent strand tests when required degree of lightness has been reached remove using a mild shampoo apply a ph balanced conditioner 6.2. How to remove bands of colour and how to recolour hair that has had artificial colour removed Ref: Handout.6.2 Tell learners that there are a variety of possible reasons for colour banding but the most common cause is overlapping when applying to the regrowth. Say that this frequently happens when clients apply colour to their hair at home. Explain that they cannot see what they are doing or, if they ask a friend to do it, this person does not have the expertise needed to do the job properly. Say that other reasons are: changing the colour using a lighter colour at the regrowth on hair with faded ends resulting in a darker band at the mid-lengths uneven application of toner after bleaching Emphasise that, to remove dark colour bands, learners must first isolate the hair that is not to be treated. Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

6 Say that this can be done by applying barrier cream to protect this hair. Explain that a colour stripper or bleach based remover should be applied to the darker areas first and manufacturer s instructions followed for development and removal. Tell learners to make sure to lift the hair from the scalp to allow air to circulate to help to achieve even results. Tell learners that they should avoid the use of added heat during processing as slow development is easier to control. Explain that when hair has had artificial colour removed by reduction it is usually necessary to recolour it to the target colour. Say that the choice of colourant type depends on the condition of the hair. Hair that is very porous with poor elasticity may only be able to stand the effects of a semi-permanent colour whereas hair that is in good condition can be recoloured using permanent colour mixed with a very low strength hydrogen peroxide. Tell learners that they must remember that this hair will be very porous so the development may be quicker than would normally be expected and the result may look darker than required. Tell learners it is prudent to do some test cuttings using tint that has been mixed with water and tint that has been mixed with a very low strength of hydrogen peroxide to check the likely results. It is good practice to take two test cuttings and apply the target shade to one and a lighter shade to the other. On most occasions the lighter shade gives the best results. Explain that the application of the colour must be completed by following the manufacturer s instructions. Stress the importance of monitoring the development carefully and apply a ph balancing conditioner after removal. Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

7 Tell learners that they should advise their clients to use colour save cleansers and conditioners to prevent colour loss due to the increased porosity of the hair How to recolour hair previously treated with lighteners using pre-pigmentation and permanent colour Ref: Handout.6.3 Explain to learners that clients who have had lightened hair sometimes ask to colour their hair back to their natural colour. State that when hair is lightened the natural colour pigment is changed from being coloured melanin or pheomelanin to being colourless oxymelanin. Say that it is usually very porous and the internal structure may be damaged. Therefore, due to air filled gaps within the cortex, the cortex cannot hold on to artificial pigment that is introduced and it will wash out leaving an uneven colour result. Further, tell learners that during the lightening process, the warm tones of the hair have been removed. If a darker colour is applied directly to lightened hair, the absence of warmth will make the new colour have a green cast. Explain that the process of pre-pigmentation can solve these problems. The pre-pigment shade is dependent on the target depth. Tell learners to: apply reds and coppers when the target depth is 4 to 6 apply golds when wanting to achieve depth 7 to 9 Tell learners that: the pre-pigment colour should be the same depth as the target depth the pre-pigment colour should be mixed with water, not an oxidiser the final target shade should be mixed with 3% (10 vol) hydrogen peroxide Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

8 Method Use the handout to explain the method of application. Say that some manufacturers recommend that the prepigment shade is not removed from the hair before the application of the target shade. Tell learners always to read and follow manufacturers instructions. Emphasise that failure to pre-pigment lightened hair may result not only in the colour fading very quickly but also in the colour result being a very ash, often green, shade. Point out to learners that some clients may have been lightening their hair for so long that their natural colour has become white. Emphasise that if this is the case, it is also very likely that their skin tones have also changed. Stress that, if the stylist or barber fails to take these factors into account, the client is likely to be unhappy with the result; it will appear too dark How to correct highlights and lowlights whilst retaining a highlight and lowlight effect Ref: Handout.6.4 Stress to learners that the most important aspect of colour correction is good planning. Tell them that providing they conduct a thorough consultation to gather as much relevant information as possible and use that information to plan a detailed course of action the result is likely to be effective. Explain that when the stylist or barber either doesn t fully understand the chemical action of colouring or lightening or doesn t know the manufacturer s colour range they are more likely to achieve a poor result. Stress the importance of testing before a colour correction service takes place. Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

9 incompatibility testing must be done to ensure that there is nothing on the hair that may react badly with what will be applied porosity testing will tell whether the colour to be applied will hold easily or if the hair needs to go through a series of preparatory conditioning treatments elasticity testing reveals the condition of the cortex and indicates if the hair can withstand the process a skin test reduces the risk of an allergic reaction Tell learners that when correcting highlights and lowlights the reason for the correction may determine the method to be used. For example: Over porous hair usually needs a preparatory course of conditioners before any colour service may need to be pre-pigmented before tone is reintroduced to correct fade Previous poor application may have to be woven in places to introduce lightener/tint to areas that did not previously receive sufficient highlights/lowlights may have to be spot tinted to remove spotting due to seepage from packets may need lowlighting to natural base shade to reduce too many bleached highlights (use a warm shade to avoid a green cast) may need colour stripping to remove excess lowlights or lowlights that are too dark Too many highlights/lowlights building up over several applications The background hair needs to be coloured back to the natural shade once the highlight/lowlight packets are secure. Care must be taken to remove each colour separately from the other. Hair that is double processed will always be much more porous and will not hold colour. Therefore the client must use colour-save home care products. Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

10 6.5. The types and causes of colour correction problems and how to rectify them Ref: Handout.6.5 (2 pages) Emphasise to learners that it is very important that they can recognise the types of problems that may occur during a colour correction service and that they understand what causes these problems. Explain that, when a stylist or barber knows what causes a problem then it becomes much simpler to rectify it. Ref: Slide.6.5 (3 pages) Show the slide explaining the types and causes of problems that learners are likely to encounter, explaining how to rectify them The potential problems of using colour correction products on previously chemically treated hair Ref: Handout.6.6 (2 pages) Tell learners that it is very important to take into consideration the potential problems relating to the use of colouring and lightening chemicals on hair that has had previous chemical treatments. Use the handout to explain the potential problems: deterioration of hair condition increase in the porosity of the hair uneven results unsatisfactory colour result required result reached sooner than expected possible incompatibility of products Discuss these problems and other potential problems with learners. Ask learners what steps they would take to avoid the problems. Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

11 Answers should include: previous history incompatibility test test cuttings allow time check condition be honest with the client about their expectations for the colour service hair which has previous chemicals is more porous Emphasise to learners that it is prudent to ensure that all possible steps have been taken to identify and avoid potential problems How to give clear instructions to those with less technical knowledge and experience than yourself Explain to learners that at this stage of their training they are likely to have more junior members of staff to assist them in the salon. Say that having this support is vital to the profitability and efficiency of a successful salon. The support enables the more senior members of staff to take more clients than they would be able to if they had to complete every aspect of the treatment or service by themselves. However, point out to learners that they are ultimately responsible for all their work (even the aspects that are carried out by more junior members of staff). Therefore, they must ensure that the junior member of staff understands the instructions that are given. Ref: Handout.6.7 Say that a good stylist or barber will always: speak clearly in a tone and at a pitch that is appropriate to the person who is receiving the instructions break the instructions down into bite sized steps that can be easily understood Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

12 use a style of language that is understood without being condescending check understanding by asking questions repeat the instructions if required Explain that, often during colour services, especially colour correction, when a stylist or barber is under pressure they sometimes fail to take the time to explain things fully. Emphasise that, if a stylist or barber is being assisted, they should make the time to: discuss with the assistant what is to be achieved make sure that the assistant reads the manufacturer s instructions share the consultation notes ensure that the assistant is aware of time constraints ensure that they are wearing PPE make sure that they know how to use all equipment that may be required - including electrical equipment speak clearly and slowly and avoid the use of jargon answer any questions the assistant may have confirm the assistant s understanding by asking relevant questions avoid giving too much information at one time, if possible put the instructions into small steps don t leave the assistant unattended and without your supervision thank the assistant for their help State that most problems associated with colourcorrection can be minimised by making sure that the person who is being instructed comprehends what is being said. 6.8 How to give effective advice and recommendations to clients and how to maintain hair and colour condition Ref: Handout.6.8 Tell learners that sometimes clients complain that their colour fades very quickly. This commonly happens when the client uses shampoos and conditioners that are unsuitable for colour corrected hair. Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

13 Explain that the client must be educated about the changes that have occurred to their hair throughout the colour correction process. Stress that this explanation must be easy to understand and said without the use of technical jargon. Suggest the following example for an explanation: The new colour is trapped inside the hair whenever the outside layer is closed. If the condition of the hair deteriorates, the outside layer will remain open and the colour that was trapped inside will escape. This explanation should allow the client to recognise that it is important to user a cleanser that will not lift the cuticle and allow the colour to escape, causing fade. Suggestion Ask the learners to devise an alternative explanation. Tell learners that once the client understands that, by applying a professionally recommended surface conditioner, they can: retain moisture in their hair smooth down the cuticle and make the hair look and feel more healthy Then, having seen the improvement in their hair, the client is likely to be more receptive to the recommendations that are made. Ref: Research.6 Ask learners to design a client advice leaflet to promote the products they have available in their own salon for the care and maintenance of colour treated hair. Remind them that they must write the leaflet in a way that is educational, yet at the same time understood by clients who will not have their level of knowledge about colouring. Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

14 The leaflet should include the following information: what has happened to the hair structure during the colouring process how the changes in the hair structure will affect the overall condition of the hair how the client can maintain the results of the colour service what may happen to the hair if the condition is not maintained the products that are available for colour treated hair the features and benefits of the products Encourage learners to use IT to make the leaflet look interesting. 6.9 Products for home use that will benefit the client and those to avoid and why this area of learning has also been covered in GH17 Colour hair using a variety of techniques Ref: Handout.6.9 Explain to learners that making recommendations about products that can be used at home is their opportunity to ensure that their client makes the best of their hair between salon visits. Tell them that, if they can influence what the client uses on their hair at home, they can help to ensure that their hair has the maximum chance of staying in good condition. Say that, if they go into any supermarket or turn on their TV they will see a myriad of hair products which, according to the manufacturers, are just right for their clients. Encourage learners to get into the habit of talking about the kind of products their client is using during the consultation. Emphasise that while professional products are sometimes more expensive, if their clients are educated in how to use them properly, they would find it very cost effective. Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

15 Emphasise that while the client is sat in the chair, they have a captive audience. It is important to say that they must not to be pushy, but to explain what the product could do for the client and why they recommend it. Say that most manufacturers have a no-quibble returns policy if the product isn t right. Emphasise that recommending beneficial products to clients will make them feel happy with the services or products they have purchased, and ensure that they will return to the salon. Unsuitable products could make the client s hair difficult to style and could cause the colour to fade quickly and lose its vibrancy How lifestyle can affect the colour correction result this area of learning has also been covered in GH17 Colour hair using a variety of techniques Discussion Ask the learners to consider and give reasons why a person s lifestyle can affect the colour correction result Develop the following points: A busy lifestyle limits the amount of time a person has to look after their hair and visit the salon colour correction services may be difficult to maintain Some people have a career or active lifestyle which makes it necessary for them to shampoo their hair every day colours may fade quickly 6.11 How the continual use of heated equipment can damage the hair this area of learning has also been covered in GH17 Colour hair using a variety of techniques Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

16 Ask the learners to give reasons why they think continual use of heated equipment, such as straighteners and tongs, can affect the hair colour. Expected responses; The colour may fade quickly because the continual use of heated equipment has damaged the hair The intense heat generated by straighteners and tongs can discolour lightened hair and make it appear scorched 6.12 The recommended time intervals between colouring and other services this area of learning has also been covered in GH17 Colour hair using a variety of techniques Ref: Activity.6.12 Ask the learners to complete the activity working independently. Discuss the completed activity as a group by comparing answers. Now complete the Learner Check for Session 6 to check the understanding of the learners. Use Research.6 to encourage independent learning. Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

17 Colouring techniques and problems (part 2) Communication Aftercare advice for clients Learner Check 1. What are colour reducers designed to be used on? 2. Is a colour stripper an oxidiser or a reducer? 3. Describe the peroxide test, stating when and why it is done. 4. How many applications of colour remover can you apply on the one occasion? 5. What is the most common cause of colour banding? 6. When recolouring hair that has been colour stripped should the H2O2 be of a high or a low strength? 7. What is the likely colour result on hair that is coloured down from a bleached base if a pre-pigment is not used? 8. Specify three reasons for scalp sensitivity during a colour correction service 1. Colour reducers are designed to be used only on artificial colourants 2. A colour stripper is a reducer 3. The peroxide test is done when the colour reducer is removed to test the effectiveness of the process to re-oxidise any remaining colour pigment so that you can see it and deal with it 4. Up to three applications of colour remover may be applied on the one occasion 5. the most common cause of colour banding is overlapping when applying colour to a regrowth 6. A low strength should be chosen 7. The colour result is likely to have a green cast 8. Any three of: bleach or lightening product too strong allergic reaction to products H2O2 too strong too much heat applied Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

18 Colouring techniques and problems (part 2) Communication Aftercare advice for clients Learner Check 9. What five things should be done when instructing a junior member of staff? 10. Define which colour you would need to add to neutralise tone in the following: hair is too green hair is too orange hair is too violet 11. Give one reason why a person s lifestyle can affect their choice of colour 12. How can the continual use of heated equipment damage hair 9. All five must be included: speak clearly in the correct tone and at the correct pitch use language that is understood without being condescending break instructions down into bite sized sections ask questions to confirm understanding repeat information whenever necessary 10. If: hair is too green add red hair is too orange add blue hair is too violet add yellow 11. One of the following A busy lifestyle limits the amount of time a person has to look after their hair Some people have a career or active lifestyle which makes it necessary for them to shampoo their hair everyday 12. Both of the following points to be covered: The colour may fade quickly because the continaul use of heated equipment has damaged the hair The intense heat generated by straighteners and tongs can discolour lightened hair and make it appear scorched Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

19 Colouring techniques and problems (part 2) Communication Aftercare advice for clients Trainer Summary 6.1. How the application and removal of lightener should be adapted to minimise scalp sensitivity and hair damage and how to remove artificial colour Recap learners from Session Remind learners that colour removers are sometimes referred to as: colour strippers decolourants colour reducers Say that they are used to remove artificial pigment that is too dark. Recap: hydrogen based reducers introduce hydrogen, it attaches to the oxygen and makes water, leaving the pigment small enough to escape from the cortex Remind learners to do the peroxide test following colour reduction and that they can use up to three applications How to remove bands of colour and how to recolour hair that has had artificial colour removed Remind learners: the most common cause of banding is overlapping to isolate the hair to be treated and to protect the other hair stress how porous the reduced hair will be so the client must use colour save home care products Advise learners that recoloured hair will look darker so to choose a lighter shade. Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

20 6.3. How to recolour hair previously treated with lighteners using pre-pigmentation and permanent colour Remind learners that bleached hair will be very porous so pigment may not hold and that they must choose a warm target shade to avoid a green cast. Recap: the pre-pigment shade depends on the target depth the pre-pigment depth should be the same as the target depth added heat should not be used when recolouring 6.4. How to correct highlights and lowlights whilst retaining a highlight and lowlight effect Remind learners to plan well and carry out all necessary tests. Recap the three main reasons for correcting highlights/ lowlights: over porous hair previous poor application too many high/lowlights built up over time Say that the reason for correction often determines the method of colour correction. Emphasise that double processed hair will always be very porous The types and causes of colour correction problems and how to rectify them Remind learners of the types and causes of problems and of how to rectify them: over processing under processing skin staining deterioration of hair condition scalp sensitivity product seepage Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

21 6.6. The potential problems of using colour correction products on previously chemically treated hair Recap on the potential problems: deterioration of hair condition uneven results required result reached sooner than expected increase in hair s porosity incompatibility of products unsatisfactory results 6.7. How to give clear instructions to those with less technical knowledge and experience Remind learners that they should: speak clearly use language that is understood break instructions down into small steps check understanding repeat when necessary 6.8 How to give effective advice and recommendations to clients and how to maintain hair and colour condition Remind learners to educate clients in reasons for using professional products. 6.9 Products for home use that will benefit the client and those to avoid and why Remind learners that the use of professional products helps to ensure: longer lasting colour hair in better condition Research.6 Set a date for the completion of the research project. Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

22 Colouring techniques and problems (part 2) Communication Aftercare advice Key/Core Skill Opportunities There will be an opportunity to promote discussion when covering:.6.8 How to phrase to clients what happens to the hair structure during the colour process Opportunity for using IT can be gained when carrying out the research for:.6 Designing a client information leaflet Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

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