Session 3. Hair. Trainer requirements to teach this session. Trainer notes. For this session you will need the following:

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1 Hair Trainer requirements to teach this session For this session you will need the following: Handout.3.1 (4 pages) Handout.3.2 (2 pages) Handout.3.3 (2 pages) Slide.3.3 Learner Check for Session 3 Trainer notes The session will cover: 3.1 the factors that must be taken into consideration prior to cutting hair 3.2 the factors that must be considered when cutting wet and dry hair 3.3 the average rate of growth for hair and the hair growth cycle Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page 1 - Unit - Session 3.

2 Hair 3.1 the factors that must be taken into consideration prior to cutting hair Explain that hairdressers have to take many things into consideration before they begin a haircut, but that they should be particularly careful about the spread of infections and infestations. Ref: Handout.3.1 Use the handout to explain the factors that must be considered prior to haircutting. 3.2 the factors that must be considered when cutting wet and dry hair Ref: Handout.3.2 Clippers and razors are not part of the range for NVQ/SVQ Level 2, but have been included in the handout as reference for the learners. Remind learners that human hair has properties of elasticity. Hair in good condition can stretch up to half its own length when wet. This is one of the factors they must consider when deciding to cut hair wet or dry. Tell learners that the natural partings of hair are more easily seen if the hair is wet. However, stress that the growth patterns and amount of natural movement can be best seen on dry hair. Page 2 - Unit - Session 3. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

3 Wet hair Tell learners that they must remember the hair s elasticity when cutting because if they stretch the hair too much when cutting it, the hair may be too short when it dries and springs back to its normal length. Stress that this is most important when cutting a fringe. Explain the benefits of cutting wet hair as: The hair is easier to section and control Guidelines within the haircut can be seen and followed more easily makes precision cutting easier State that the hair must also be wet when using a razor. Explain that this is to prevent damage to the hair and to ensure client comfort. The hair would be pulled if it is dry when being cut or thinned with a razor. Now tell the learners about cutting dry hair Dry hair Precision cutting is difficult to do on dry hair as the hair will slide through the blades of the scissors. Explain that the hair must be dry when they use thinning scissors or clippers to prevent too much hair being removed. Scissor over comb technique can be completed more easily on dry hair, as the comb glides through the short dry hair more effortlessly than on wet hair. Stress to learners that their tools must be very sharp for use on dry hair. Blunt scissors will simply push the hair out of the blades and the resulting cut will be uneven. State that this is particularly important if the hair is very thick. Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page 3 - Unit - Session 3.

4 Summary Tell learners that the factors when cutting hair wet or dry to be considered are: hair type can be more easily seen on dry hair (too curly, wavy or straight for the look?) hairstyle wet hair shows the natural parting (ie, if it lies to one or other side, etc.) hair growth patterns best seen on dry hair (can influence decisions related to the length of the hair cut, ie, some hair may need to be left longer to disguise some hair growth patterns) hair elasticity avoid too much tension when cutting (this will stretch the hair) Discuss with learners that at the consultation stage of the haircut, they must be aware that the client s hair may have been blow dried. Ask learners what they think this may do in relation to their ability to check growth patterns, hair type and natural lie The blow dry may camouflage these things and make it harder for the hairdresser to see them. State that they must remember this when making decisions about the haircut. 3.3 the average rate of growth for hair and the hair growth cycle Ref: Handout.3.3 Explain to learners that the average rate of growth of a human hair is 1.25 cms a month. This is about the same as 1 /2 inch per month. Page 4 - Unit - Session 3. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

5 It is important that learners know this so that they can advise the client as to how soon they should return to the salon in order to maintain their hairstyle. Explain that clients should be encouraged to visit the salon to have their hair cut at least every six weeks. Regular cutting is necessary for the style and shape of the haircut to be maintained. This will also remove any damaged ends that have been caused by regular heat styling. The hair growth cycle Ref: Slide.3.3 & Handout.3.3 (continued) other units This area of learning is also covered in Using the overhead transparency and handout, explain about the growth cycle (or remind learners if they have covered this area of learning before). State that hair constantly grows, falls out and replaces itself. However, sometimes in the case of male pattern baldness, the hair fails to replace itself and baldness results. Explain that there are 3 phases or stages to the hair growth cycle. Anagen phase of the cycle Explain that this phase of the cycle lasts the longest. However, opinions vary as to the length of this cycle, but the average, general conclusion is between 1 1 /2 and 7 years, possibly slightly longer. Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page 5 - Unit - Session 3.

6 Catagen phase of the cycle Explain to learners that in this stage, the hair has moved away from the dermal papilla. The base of the detaching hair moves up and becomes level with the sebaceous gland. At the same time, however, the follicle canal shrinks to about a third of its usual size. The cells now stop making colour pigment and the root takes on the appearance of a small, white coloured ball, which can be seen when the hair comes out. This process takes about 2 to 3 weeks. Hair-growth activity at this point is not altogether dormant because the hair is preparing for new growth by making new germ cells. These cells wait for a signal to begin the anagen process again. Whilst the hair is in catagen, two distinct reservoirs can be seen in the upper and lower third of the root sheath. The theory here is that these two stem-cell reservoirs fuse in a late catagen and telogen but then split at the onset of anagen. Telogen phase of the cycle Explain that this is the resting stage of the growth cycle and lasts between three and four months. If the old hair is still embedded in the follicle, the new hair will push it out. Explain to learners that the telogen stage can last for just a few hours but that, if the follicle fails to go back into the growing stage - anagen, then baldness will result. Anagen Following telogen, the anagen stage begins again. Now complete the learner check for session 3 to check learners understanding. Page 6 - Unit - Session 3. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

7 Cut hair using basic techniques Learner Check Session 3 1. State why the following must be taken into consideration prior to cutting hair. Hair growth patterns Hair texture Suspected infection 2. List three items that should be identified when the hair is dry prior to cutting. 3. List two items that should be identified when the hair is wet prior to cutting. 4. State two benefits of cutting hair wet. 5. State whether the following techniques for cutting should be carried out on wet or dry hair. Razor cutting Thinning Clipper cutting Scissor over comb 6. State the average rate of growth for hair. 1. Hair growth patterns the pattern of hair may restrict the choice of haircut. Hair texture the hair may be too fine or too coarse for the chosen haircut. Suspected infection hairdressing services must not be carried out if there is a suspected infection present. 2. Hair growth patterns Hair type Hair texture Hair condition Required haircut Signs of disease/disorder Infection or infestation Piercings 3. Natural partings Elasticity Natural movement of the hair 4. The hair is easier to section and control The guidelines can be easily seen and followed 5. Wet Dry Dry Dry cm ( 1 /2 inch) per month. 7. Name the three phases of the hair growth cycle. 7. Anagen, Catagen, Telogen Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page 7 - Unit - Session 3.

8 Page 8 - Unit - Session 3. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

9 Hair Trainer summary 3.1 the factors that must be taken into consideration prior to cutting hair Suspected infections Suspected infestations Hair density Hair texture Hair type Hair elasticity Head and face shape Piercings Hair growth patterns Hair and scalp disorders 3.2 the factors that must be considered when cutting wet and dry hair Hair stretches when wet. Certain tools should only be used on wet hair, others only on dry hair It is easier to see certain hair characteristics if the hair is wet, others can be better seen if the hair is dry 3.3 the average rate of growth for hair The average rate of growth is 1.25 cms or 1/2 inch per month The three stages of hair growth are: Anagen Catagen Telogen Following telogen, anagen begins again Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page 9 - Unit - Session 3.

10 Hair Key/Core Skill Opportunities There will be an opportunity to promote discussion when covering:.3.2 The camouflaging effect of a blow dry when assessing the hair prior to cutting.3.3 The calculation of the amount of length to remove in relation to the client s requirements, the time since the last haircut and the rate of hair growth There will be an opportunity to carryout straightforward calculations when covering:.3.3 The amount of length to remove in relation to the client s requirements, the time since the last haircut and the rate of hair growth. Page 10 - Unit - Session 3. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

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