THE SOURCE: VOLUME TWO

Transcription

1 THE SOURCE: VOLUME TWO

2 For the shapes, Joico International Director Damien Carney looked to the shift in fashion from minimal, angular design to curved, feminine shapes with opulent details for inspiration. According to Carney, the trend has been so far-reaching that even traditionally minimalistic designers like Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein and Narciso Rodriguez recently joined the likes of Herve Leger, Max Azria and Dolce & Gabbana the masters of body-hugging, überfeminininity by using peplums, rounded collars, curvilinear color blocking and slinky metallic detailing to accentuate the feminine décolletage and waistline. Carney translated this trend to hair by pivoting from a central point on the head to cut a rounded, fitted shape. The opulent detailing came by way of disconnection in the fringe, side and/or back areas, which he then manipulated in the styling stage to transform these head-hugging shapes into three-dimensional hair sculptures. The embellishment is not over-the-top, explained Carney. It s just enough to add a little drama and excitement to the design, without sacrificing any of the modernity and wearability. For the color, Vero K-PAK Color International Artistic Director Sue Pemberton took a cue from the light-to-dark and dark-to-light radial color gradation seen on flower petals and put a dramatic new spin on the traditional, ever-popular ombré technique. This collection shows the evolution of ombré as we know it into something bolder, more unique truly head-turning, said Pemberton. The NAHA-winning colorist started each technique at a central point on the head, then pivoted from that point using the natural head shape (working with the haircut) to create shapes and shading with back-toback slice partings of various shades of Vero K-PAK Color and Vero K-PAK Chrome. It s no longer just about going from a darker base to lighter ends in shades of brown and blonde, she elaborated. From here on, it s about going from dark to light or light to dark using real, vibrant color to create depth and dimension reds, coppers, golds, purples, even shades of lavender.

3 ut With a shorter, fitted hairline and nape area flowing into longer internal lengths, this technique creates a strong head shape with great versatility. The longer, lighter disconnected lengths add softness and texture, while allowing the haircut to transition from one look to another. The internal areas have volume in an erratic, modern, controlled manner. An optional fringe short, square, asymmetrical or long and light is a wonderful way of personalizing the look to suit the wearer. Styling is simple: work with the hands and natural hair texture to manipulate the hair into the shape you want. D.C.

4 01 Section hair from above temple area to crown area as shown. 02 Take a vertical parting just above the ear and cut to desired length. before 03 Pivot off the first guide using diagonal partings. Lift, overdirect and apply tension. Each parting should be elevated slightly higher than the previous. The outline will be refined at a later stage.

5 04 Go back to the original guide; take a diagonal parting that connects the sides to the back nape area. Cut to desired length Continue to take diagonal partings, note the guide is a traveling guide. Work towards just past the center back of head. 09 Refine temple area using a chipping and pointing technique. 10 Refine the nape area. Profile view. 07 Section opposite side as shown. Take a diagonal parting and cut to desired length. Repeat the same on opposite side. 08 Continue to work toward the center back of the head. Note that the guide is a traveling guide. Blow-dry hair smooth. 11 Maintain length through top area (the longest point of the haircut). Take slightly larger diagonal partings and pointcut to lighten ends. Note that the top will not connect to the side and back areas. Work visually to assess balance and proportion.

6 12 View of back. Note disconnected areas. 14 Repeat pointing technique on the opposite side. Ensure sufficient weight is removed from the top area. View of haircut prior to color. After color process, hair should be further refined to ensure haircut and color flow seamlessly. 13 Refine the hairline and side area by chipping and pointing the edges of the hair. Note that this side of the haircut is fuller than the opposite, flatter side. 15 Establish a fringe length that complements the individual face shape and hair texture.

7 olor I pivoted from a central point around the fringe and side area taking backto-back horizontal-diagonal slice partings. The partings were staggered back toward the crown and then slightly forward, leaving a mostly darker fringe area and perimeter. Shades of yellow or pale lavender blonde were placed on slice partings from light at the scalp to darker at the ends for a reverse ombré effect. S.P.

8 phase 1/prelightening Prelightening Formula VeroLight with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide Color Formulas FORMULA 1 Vero K-PAK Chrome ½ V9 + 2-inch (5.08 cm) ribbon V4 with Activator (Purple Foil) FORMULA 2 Vero K-PAK Chrome ½ V4 + ½ V9 with Activator (Purple Foil) 01 Start by taking a diagonal parting toward the crown area. Working off that parting, take a diagonal slice parting and apply Prelightening Formula 1 /8 inch (0.31 cm) form the scalp area through the mid-shaft and ends. 02 Take a second back-toback diagonal slice parting (leaving no hair between the foils). Note that the parting does not extend into the fringe area. 03 Continue to take diagonal slice partings, pivoting around the head shape. You will eventually begin slightly staggering the foils back toward the crown area. before Model has a natural, level 6 (light golden brown) hair. FORMULA 3 Vero K-PAK Chrome ½ G9 + 2-inch (5.08 cm) ribbon Really Yellow with Activator (Gold Foil) FORMULA 4 Vero K-PAK Chrome ¾ Really Yellow + ¼ G9 with Activator (Gold Foil) BASE COLOR Vero K-PAK Chrome Clear + Activator Alternate Vero K-PAK Color Formula FORMULA 1 Vero K-PAK Color ½ TPB + 2-inch (5.08 cm) ribbon INV with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide FORMULA 2 Vero K-PAK Color ½ TPB + ½ INV with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide FORMULA 3 Vero K-PAK Color ½ 9G + 2-inch (5.08 cm) ribbon ING with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide FORMULA 4 Vero K-PAK Color ½ ING + ½ 9G with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide 04 Continue with back-to-back diagonal slice partings, pivoting around the head shape for approximately 14 slice partings with Prelightening Formula. 05 Proceed to the opposite side. Working diagonally-horizontally, take a slice parting and apply Prelightening Formula (leaving the fringe un-foiled). 06 Begin to stagger the foils closer into the hairline, then a further back toward the back of the head. BASE COLOR Natural or level 6G with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide

9 phase 2/color technique 07 Continue working in the same manner for a total of approximately eight foils. 08 Completed foiling procedure. Lift the hair to a level 9 (yellow), then rinse. Shampoo with K-PAK Shampoo, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Cuticle Sealer for 5 minutes, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Deep-Penetrating Reconstructor for 5 minutes, then rinse and dry the hair. Proceed to Phase Starting off a side parting, take a horizontal slice parting and apply Formula 1 half way down the hair (approximately 2½-inches (6.35 cm) from the base of the foil). 10 Apply Formula 2 to the remainder of the slice parting through the mid-shaft and ends. Place a foil directly on top of the slice parting, so that when folding the foil the two colors do not bleed together.

10 11 Directly underneath, take a second slice parting and apply Formula 3 half way down the hair and Formula 4 to the remainder (through to the ends). 12 Continue to take horizontal slice partings, staggering the slice partings when needed. Apply Formula 1 from the base of the foils to approximately 2½-inches (6.35 cm) down the hair, and Formula 2 to the remainder (through to the ends) 13 Continue taking slice partings, alternating the formulas in the same manner for a total of approximately 10 foils. Stagger when needed, then revert back to single slice partings. 14 Proceed to the opposite side. Working toward the back of the head, take a horizontal slice parting and apply Formula 3 half way down the hair and Formula 4 to the remainder (through to the ends). 15 Continue to take back-to-back horizontal-diagonal slice partings, alternating the formulas in the same manner. Stagger the foils when needed, for a total of approximately fifteen foils. 16 Completed foiling procedure. Apply Base Color to all un-foiled hair, process for 20 minutes, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Shampoo, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Cuticle Sealer; leave in for 5 minutes, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Intense Hydrator; leave in for 5 minutes, then rinse. Dry the hair and style with the appropriate Joico styling products.

11 Hear what Joico s legendary International Artistic Director Damien Carney has to say about Joico s newest stylers. POWER SPRAY FAST-DRY FINISHING SPRAY MATTE GRIP TEXTURE CRÈME My favorite hairspray of all time! You can easily control the hold, taking it from level 8 to 10 with just a spray. I spray it on fine hair, allow it to dry, then brush it through to plump up everything. I also use it with heated tools, from heated curlers to flat irons, to mold the hair into any shape I want. It s completely layerable and reworkable, plus it imparts incredible shine to hair! POWER WHIP WHIPPED FOAM The first thing I reach for on a shoot and in the salon! It has a super creamy, easy to control consistency and firm yet extremely flexible hold, making it ideal for building the foundation of any style, on any hair type. I generally apply it to damp hair at the scalp, then comb through to the ends. It leaves hair manageable, incredibly shiny, full of body and volume. POWER GEL SCULPTING GEL I like using this strong, reworkable gel on hair that requires a bit more discipline. It allows me to easily manipulate the hair in any way I want from creating super smooth, controlled looks to enhancing the texture and shine of curly or wavy hair. This weightless, non-greasy texture cream gives hair a clean, reworkable grip, allowing you to enhance the natural texture of any hair type or introduce texture where there is none. You can apply it to damp or dry hair to convert any style into a fresh, modern editorial interpretation." INSTANT REFRESH DRY SHAMPOO If you want to get an extra two days out of your style, this is your product! It dries super fast without any white, cloudy residue. I love the cooling effect when it s sprayed to the scalp and hair. It works brilliantly at controlling natural oils and sebum, leaving hair looking and feeling incredibly fresh and alive. DESIGN WORKS SHAPING SPRAY A great shaping spray is vital to any artist. This spray allows me to rework and manipulate the hair into any shape, creating hairstyles that are naturallooking yet completely controlled never rigid. I like spraying the product into my hand and then working it throughout the style. Great for setting and long hairdressing. STYLE REFORM MATTE CLAY This product is excellent for giving hair a matte look, or for controlling wavy, kinky-textured hair. Apply a dime-sized amount to palms, emulsify, then apply to damp hair. Use a dryer to manipulate the shape, or leave the hair to dry naturally. I prefer to use my hands as my styling tool; the more I work the hair with this, the better it gets. TEXTURE BOOST DRY SPRAY WAX Most waxes can be heavy and deflate any volume in hair, but this is super light and non-greasy. Although you can spray this directly to hair, I prefer spraying it into my palms, then working it into the hair. Hands are the greatest tool to add texture and lightly mess up the hair! Great on all hair types, even fine hair, to take that squeaky-clean feel out and make hair easier to manage. HUMIDITY BLOCKER FINISHING SPRAY Excess humidity wrecks havoc on hair, leaving it frizzy and impossible to style. This creates an invisible barrier that locks out excessive humidity and controls frizz, so hair is softer, easier to manage, easier to style. Simply spray on dry hair and style. Great with heated tools to control all hair types all day long. SUPER SHINE GLOSSING POLISH This product works on all hair types and hair lengths, especially dull, dry, lifeless hair. I love the light, cleanfeeling, defined texture and shine. Great on colored hair, as the light reflecting qualities add clarity to all hair colors. Great on messy hair. Fab on wavy hair. Super cool on über slick, straight hair. FLEX CONTROL PLIABLE PASTE "I love using this smooth matte paste to create pliable definition and thickness in textured hair. The clean, non-tacky formula glides easily through damp or dry hair for endless styling possibilities.