THE SOURCE: VOLUME ONE

Transcription

1 THE SOURCE: VOLUME ONE

2 For the shapes, Joico International Director Damien Carney looked to the shift in fashion from minimal, angular design to curved, feminine shapes with opulent details for inspiration. According to Carney, the trend has been so far-reaching that even traditionally minimalistic designers like Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein and Narciso Rodriguez recently joined the likes of Herve Leger, Max Azria and Dolce & Gabbana the masters of body-hugging, überfeminininity by using peplums, rounded collars, curvilinear color blocking and slinky metallic detailing to accentuate the feminine décolletage and waistline. Carney translated this trend to hair by pivoting from a central point on the head to cut a rounded, fitted shape. The opulent detailing came by way of disconnection in the fringe, side and/or back areas, which he then manipulated in the styling stage to transform these head-hugging shapes into three-dimensional hair sculptures. The embellishment is not over-the-top, explained Carney. It s just enough to add a little drama and excitement to the design, without sacrificing any of the modernity and wearability. For the color, Vero K-PAK Color International Artistic Director Sue Pemberton took a cue from the light-to-dark and dark-to-light radial color gradation seen on flower petals and put a dramatic new spin on the traditional, ever-popular ombré technique. This collection shows the evolution of ombré as we know it into something bolder, more unique truly head-turning, said Pemberton. The NAHA-winning colorist started each technique at a central point on the head, then pivoted from that point using the natural head shape (working with the haircut) to create shapes and shading with back-toback slice partings of various shades of Vero K-PAK Color and Vero K-PAK Chrome. It s no longer just about going from a darker base to lighter ends in shades of brown and blonde, she elaborated. From here on, it s about going from dark to light or light to dark using real, vibrant color to create depth and dimension reds, coppers, golds, purples, even shades of lavender.

3 ut This ultra tight, head-hugging shape uses graduation, scissorover-comb and a combination of various non-connecting lengths to create a modern short look that works for any hair texture. Simply adjust the lengths to suit the hair texture, face shape and lifestyle. A shorter fringe with longer mini fringes that fall over one another is key to opening up the face and creating versatility. This look has multiple styling options the shorter areas can be exposed or concealed. With styling, subtle textures created with the hands produce endless results. D.C.

4 01 Section hair as shown. Note that the sectioning is higher on this side (above the temple area) than on the opposite side to off-set and shift the balance through the top area. 02 Take a diagonal parting and cut to desired length to establish the first guideline. The objective is to create a tight, fitted head shape, in which the shortest point is the hairline and slightly longer through the temple area. before 03 Continue to work neatly and methodically from the side to the back area; the guide is a traveling guide. Alter the parting pattern depending on individual head shape and overall desired result (round, square, asymmetrical). 04 Frequently cross-check in the opposite direction of the original technique to refine (not alter the original lengths of) the overall design.

5 05 Repeat the process on the opposite side. Note that the sectioning is lower on this side. Alter the sectioning pattern depending on your desired result. Continue to work around the back of the head using a traveling guideline. Note that working just past the center will illuminate any corners or unwanted weight in the center back of the head. Blow dry. 07 Refine the hairline. Allow hair to fall into its natural position. Refine the perimeter with the scissor-over-comb technique, especially around the hairline. The hairline is the shortest length and should fade smoothly into the natural hairline growth pattern. 06 Refine the right fringe area by pointing and chipping into the hairline. Cut the fringe area short and tight around the hairline. Note that there are three mini fringes at the front of the haircut; this is the first fringe. Each fringe should be longer than the previous, with one fringe laying over another. 08 Take a diagonal parting as shown, then elevate and overdirect this parting. Cut a curved line that falls over the shorter underneath area. Note that this does not connect to the underneath fringe.

6 09 Allow the hair to fall naturally, then refine the line by pointcutting and chipping to soften the edges of the line. Note that this does not connect to the area underneath. This is the second mini fringe. 10 The third fringe is cut through the comb, loosely and freely to create softer, irregular, longer lengths. Continue to overdirect and elevate each parting to ensure the front of the hair is not heavy. The hair should be light to allow for shifting and manipulation around the head. 12 Note that the crown area does not connect to the shorter area underneath. Refine by chipping and pointing into the hair to retain softness throughout the edges of the longer lengths. View of haircut prior to color. After color process, hair should be further refined to ensure haircut and color flow seamlessly. 11 Take larger diagonal partings to refine the interior of the haircut. Elevate at approximately 90 degrees, then chip and point into the edges of the hair. Soften any strong corners. Note that the top is the longest length, with the longer hair falling over the shorter shape underneath. Focus on silhouette and overall shape. Check the shape visually. 13 Refine side areas and fringe.

7 olor I started this color placement at a central point and then pivoted around the head shape taking back-to-back horizontal-diagonal slice partings. I staggered the partings back toward the crown and then slightly forward, resulting in a darker fringe area, perimeter and triangular section of hair. These darker sections were then surrounded by increasingly deeper rings of color in purple, red and copper/golds. S.P.

8 phase 1/prelightening before Model has a natural, level 3 (ebony brown) hair. Prelightening Formula VeroLight with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide Color Formulas FORMULA 1 Vero K-PAK Chrome ½ Really Yellow + ½ RC8 with Activator (Copper Foil) FORMULA 2 Vero K-PAK Color 7XR with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide (Red Foil) FORMULA 3 VK-PAK Chrome ¾ V4 + ¼ Clear with Activator (Purple Foil) 01 Starting off the diagonal parting (on the top section working into the fringe where the hair is longer in length), take a diagonal slice parting and apply Prelightening Formula approximately 1 /8-inch (0.31cm) from the scalp area through the midshaft and ends. 02 Directly below (working more toward the back of the head, staggered back from the first slice parting), take a second diagonal slice parting and apply Prelightening Formula. 03 Continue to take backto-back diagonal slice partings, pivoting around the head shape. Stagger into the fringe area, picking up both the longer and shorter lengths of the top section and fringe area as shown. 04 Continue to take backto-back diagonal slice partings for a total of approximately 8 foils. Work each slice parting into the fringe area, then stagger toward the back of the head to cover a larger area of the top section. BASE COLOR Vero K-PAK Chrome N4 with Activator Alternate Vero K-PAK Color Formula FORMULA 1 Vero K-PAK Color ½ ING + ½ 8RG with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide FORMULA 2 Same as above FORMULA 3 Vero K-PAK Color ¾ 4FV + ¼ TPB with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide BASE COLOR Vero K-PAK Color 4N with 10 volume (3%) Veroxide 05 Leave a triangular section of hair ¼-inch (0.63 cm) wide at the crown, 1-inch (2.54 cm) wide toward the fringe area) un-foiled. Then, working off the triangular shape, take a diagonal slice parting and apply Prelightening Formula. 06 Continue to work in the same manner as steps 1 through 4 (pivoting around the head shape) for approximately four staggered diagonal slice partings and one diagonal slice parting a total of five foils. Leave a piece of longer hair un-foiled. 07 Completed foiling procedure. Lift the hair to a level 8 (yellow/orange), then rinse. Shampoo with K-PAK Shampoo, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Cuticle Sealer for 5 minutes, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Deep-Penetrating Reconstructor for 5 minutes, then rinse and dry the hair. Proceed to Phase 2.

9 phase 2/color technique 08 Starting off the diagonal parting, take two back-toback slice partings (slightly staggering) and apply Formula Take a back-to-back diagonal slice parting and apply Formula Take three staggered diagonal slice partings (working into the fringe area, then staggering back toward the crown area) for three foils with Formula Pivoting around the head shape, take two additional staggered diagonal slice partings with Formula 2; two diagonal slice partings with Formula 1; and one additional diagonal slice parting with Formula Leave the triangular section of hair from Step 5 un-foiled as before. Then, working diagonally from the triangular shape, pivot and stagger the following foils: one slice parting with Formula 1; one slice parting with Formula 2; two slice partings with Formula 3; one slice parting with Formula 2; and one last parting with Formula Completed foiling procedure. Apply Base Color to all un-foiled hair, process for 20 minutes, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Shampoo, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Cuticle Sealer; leave in for 5 minutes, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Intense Hydrator; leave in for 5 minutes, then rinse. Dry the hair and style with the appropriate Joico styling products.

10 Hear what Joico s legendary International Artistic Director Damien Carney has to say about Joico s newest stylers. POWER SPRAY FAST-DRY FINISHING SPRAY MATTE GRIP TEXTURE CRÈME My favorite hairspray of all time! You can easily control the hold, taking it from level 8 to 10 with just a spray. I spray it on fine hair, allow it to dry, then brush it through to plump up everything. I also use it with heated tools, from heated curlers to flat irons, to mold the hair into any shape I want. It s completely layerable and reworkable, plus it imparts incredible shine to hair! POWER WHIP WHIPPED FOAM The first thing I reach for on a shoot and in the salon! It has a super creamy, easy to control consistency and firm yet extremely flexible hold, making it ideal for building the foundation of any style, on any hair type. I generally apply it to damp hair at the scalp, then comb through to the ends. It leaves hair manageable, incredibly shiny, full of body and volume. POWER GEL SCULPTING GEL I like using this strong, reworkable gel on hair that requires a bit more discipline. It allows me to easily manipulate the hair in any way I want from creating super smooth, controlled looks to enhancing the texture and shine of curly or wavy hair. This weightless, non-greasy texture cream gives hair a clean, reworkable grip, allowing you to enhance the natural texture of any hair type or introduce texture where there is none. You can apply it to damp or dry hair to convert any style into a fresh, modern editorial interpretation." INSTANT REFRESH DRY SHAMPOO If you want to get an extra two days out of your style, this is your product! It dries super fast without any white, cloudy residue. I love the cooling effect when it s sprayed to the scalp and hair. It works brilliantly at controlling natural oils and sebum, leaving hair looking and feeling incredibly fresh and alive. DESIGN WORKS SHAPING SPRAY A great shaping spray is vital to any artist. This spray allows me to rework and manipulate the hair into any shape, creating hairstyles that are naturallooking yet completely controlled never rigid. I like spraying the product into my hand and then working it throughout the style. Great for setting and long hairdressing. STYLE REFORM MATTE CLAY This product is excellent for giving hair a matte look, or for controlling wavy, kinky-textured hair. Apply a dime-sized amount to palms, emulsify, then apply to damp hair. Use a dryer to manipulate the shape, or leave the hair to dry naturally. I prefer to use my hands as my styling tool; the more I work the hair with this, the better it gets. TEXTURE BOOST DRY SPRAY WAX Most waxes can be heavy and deflate any volume in hair, but this is super light and non-greasy. Although you can spray this directly to hair, I prefer spraying it into my palms, then working it into the hair. Hands are the greatest tool to add texture and lightly mess up the hair! Great on all hair types, even fine hair, to take that squeaky-clean feel out and make hair easier to manage. HUMIDITY BLOCKER FINISHING SPRAY Excess humidity wrecks havoc on hair, leaving it frizzy and impossible to style. This creates an invisible barrier that locks out excessive humidity and controls frizz, so hair is softer, easier to manage, easier to style. Simply spray on dry hair and style. Great with heated tools to control all hair types all day long. SUPER SHINE GLOSSING POLISH This product works on all hair types and hair lengths, especially dull, dry, lifeless hair. I love the light, cleanfeeling, defined texture and shine. Great on colored hair, as the light reflecting qualities add clarity to all hair colors. Great on messy hair. Fab on wavy hair. Super cool on über slick, straight hair. FLEX CONTROL PLIABLE PASTE "I love using this smooth matte paste to create pliable definition and thickness in textured hair. The clean, non-tacky formula glides easily through damp or dry hair for endless styling possibilities.