Who loves color-treated hair? We do. ChromoHance 113 polymer

Transcription

1 Who loves color-treated hair? We do. ChromoHance 113 polymer

2 ChromoHance 113 polymer INCI: Polyquaternium-113 Everyone loves the look of their hair immediately following the color process when every strand is a beautiful display of intense color, bright highlights, vibrancy, and shine. For millions of women, the just-out-of-the-salon look is the very best part of a hair care cycle that typically lasts from 4 to 6 weeks. Between the start and end of that cycle, however, color begins to fade, and luster becomes less noticeable. Often, dry, dull-looking hair sets in. A range of color-protection products help to slow the rate of color fade, but few products exist to maintain the just-out-of-the-salon look. Typically, leave-in products with color-protection technology provide some level of protection. In rinse-out systems, commercial color-protection technology offers only a marginal benefit. As the market shifts toward a shampoo, conditioner and styling regimen; however, higher-performing technology is required to assure color maintenance from rinse-out systems. Ashland's new technology for shampoo and conditioner products shields oxidative colortreated hair from surfactant stripping. The patent-pending technology maintains color vibrancy by forming a hydrophobic surface on hair. / 2

3 Color-treatment processes, such as oxidative dyeing tend to remove the hydrophobic layer from the hair surface. Without a hydrophobic surface, dye molecules may leach out faster from hair fibers during typical washing and conditioning practices with surfactant-containing products. restores a hydrophobic shield, aiding in the preservation of color vibrancy and significantly reducing leakage of color molecules. Consumer-perceivable hair color maintenance In panel studies, consumers perceive color maintenance, conditioning and shine across a range of color shades when following a shampoo and conditioning regimen with formulations containing. When compared with control formulations containing no polymer, consumers observe a very significant improvement in maintenance of color vibrancy. Proven in rinse-out and leave-in systems An easy-to-use clear aqueous solution, the polymer is proven useful in both rinse-out and leave-in systems at low-use levels. is compatible with most hair care formulations and ingredients at levels that range from 1 to 5% (as sold). Color conservation of red hair Red hair dye is by far the most difficult color to guard against wash-out and color-fade. Using a commercial permanent red hair color as a test case, the anti-fade performance of this oxidative dye is tested during a shampoo and conditioner regimen containing 1% active level. Comparing the same wash and conditioning regimen with and without ChromoHance 113 polymer, over 10 cycles, a significant improvement in anti-color fade is observed. Properties of Color maintenance technology for oxidative color-treated hair INCI: Polyquaternium-113 Clear aqueous solution (20% solids) ph at 25 C: Brookfield Viscosity, cps: mpas Usage level: 1-5% / 3

4 Figure 1 Shampoo test formulation chassis Ingredients Control Shampoo Shampoo with ChromoHance 113 polymer Deionized Water Disodium EDTA Sodium Laureth Sulfate 1EO Cocamidopropyl Betaine Methylisothiazolinone (and) Phenypropanol (and) Propylene Glycol (and) Water Sodium Chloride Polyquaternium-113 () Citric Acid (10% solution) Sodium Hydroxide (10% solution) 1.00 Conditioner test formulation chassis Ingredients Control Conditioner Conditioner with ChromoHance 113 polymer Deionized Water Cetrimonium Chloride Cetyl Alcohol Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Stearyl Alcohol Lactic Acid Dimethicone Propylene Glycol Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol Polyquaternium-113 () 1.00 Figure 2 Anti-fade of market leading red colorant (Hot Red) (4R) DE* Color Protection - - Rinse-off Regimen Shampoo & conditioner without Shampoo & conditioner with 1% active Figure x 5x # of wash/rinse cycles Tresses following 10 wash and rinse cycles Ashland has also tested hair tresses treated with red dye for other consumer-desirable attributes, including brightness, and level of color (darkness). In both instances, hair is brighter and darker than tresses that contain no polymer. 10x Control Shampoo & conditioner without Shampoo & conditioner with / 4

5 Figure 4 Combing force (gf-mm) Baseline Shampoo Root-to-tip conditioning A multifunctional technology, offers rootto-tip conditioning to help rejuvenate every strand of color-treated hair, and at the same time, assure maintenance of color vibrancy % active Control (shampoo with no polymer) Formulating shampoo and conditioner with Ashland offers the following procedures to help simplify the manufacture of shampoo and conditioner formulas containing. Shampoo Dilute polymer (start with 2:1 water:polymer) Add at the end of the batch (after all other ingredients have been added) Conditioner Compatible with cationic surfactants Can be added at the beginning of the batch to water phase, or end of the batch If added in the beginning, it will reduce viscosity If added at the end, conditioner will be thicker May impact stability of the formula (stability is formulation dependent) Ask how enhances the just-out-of-the-salon look and feel of hair when delivered from rinse-off and leave-in formulations. Contact your Ashland representative for test data, prototypes, and polymer samples. Key Benefits Provides superior color retention and anti-fade, anti-wash out for all colors Long-lasting conditioning and repair Improves vibrancy and shine Effective in all formats (shampoo, conditioner, masques, serum treatments) Compatible and stable with most other ingredients and formulations New patented chemistry, new Polyquaternium (Polyquaternium-113) Easy to process / 5

6 Formulations supported by Ashland Luxury Color Protection Shampoo - Radiance Formula #: Ingredients/Trade Name INCI Name %W/W Supplier Part A Deionized Water Deionized Water Local Citric Acid (25% solution) Citric Acid (25% solution) 0.10 Local Ashland 980 carbomer Carbomer 0.20 Ashland Part B Benecel E10M HPMC Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose 0.40 Ashland Jeechem EGD* Glycol Distearate 0.50 Jeen Part C Amphosol CA* Cocamidopropyl Betaine 6.67 Stepan Standapol ES-2* Sodium Laureth Sulfate BASF Part D Deionized Water Deionized Water 7.09 Local N-Hance 3215 cationic guar Guar HPT Chloride 0.50 Ashland Part E Disodium EDTA Disodium EDTA 0.10 Local ChromoHance 113 polymer Polyquaternium Ashland XIAMETER MEM-1788* Dimethiconol (and) TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate 4.00 Dow Corning Optiphen 200 preservative Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol 1.00 Ashland Petal Blanche* Fragrance/Parfum 0.38 Firmenich Jeesorb L-20 NF* Polysorbate Jeen Sodium Hydroxide (25% solution) Sodium Hydroxide (25% solution) Local Total * Trademark owned by a third party. Procedure 1. Add Part A ingredients in order with moderate mixing. Mix well without aerating the batch. 2. Heat batch to 70ºC. 3. At 70ºC, add Part B ingredients in order. Mix between each addition until solids are dispersed and batch is uniform. 4. Add Part C ingredients in order. Mix until batch is uniform. 5. Cool batch to 42ºC. 6. In a separate beaker, add Part D ingredients in order and mix well. Make sure guar is completely dispersed. 7. Add Part D to batch. 8. At 42ºC, add Part E ingredients in order. Mix well until batch is uniform. 9. Adjust ph as necessary. Typical Properties Description: White, viscous liquid Viscosity: 3,000 9,000 cps (Spindle RV4, 20 RPM) ph: / 6

7 Formulations supported by Ashland Moisturizing Color Protection Conditioner - Vibrancy Formula #: Ingredients/Trade Name INCI Name %W/W Supplier Part A Deionized Water Deionized Water Local PolySurf 67 cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.20 Ashland ChromoHance 113 polymer Polyquaternium Ashland Part B Jeequat BTMC-85%* Behentrimonium Chloride 1.50 Jeen Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol NF 95%* Cetearyl Alcohol 5.00 Jeen Jeechem S-13* Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine 1.00 Jeen Part C Lactic Acid - 85% Lactic Acid 0.50 Local Part D BELSIL DM * Dimethicone 3.00 Wacker KF-995* Cyclopentasiloxane 3.00 Shin-Etsu Silicone Ceraphyl 230 ester Diisopropyl Adipate 2.00 Ashland BELSIL ADM 6057 E* Amodimethicone 2.50 Wacker Optiphen preservative Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Gylcol 0.75 Ashland Petal Blanche* Fragrance/Parfum 0.20 Firmenich Sodium Hydroxide (25% solution) NaOH (25% solution) Local Total * Trademark owned by a third party. Procedure 1. Add water to beaker. Disperse cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose and polyquaternium-113. Heat Part A to 80ºC. 2. In a separate beaker, add Part B ingredients. Heat to 80ºC, while mixing. Mix at 80ºC until all solids are dissolved and phase is uniform. 3. When both Part A and Part B are at 80ºC, add Part B to Part A. Homogenize for 2 4,000 RPM. 4. Mix for 20 minutes at 80º C. 5. Cool batch to 40ºC. While cooling, add Part C to batch. 6. At 40ºC, add Part D ingredients in order. 7. Adjust ph as needed. Typical Properties Description: White, thick cream Viscosity: 20,000 50,000 cps ( Spindle TD, 10 RPM) ph: / 7

8 GLOBAL HEADQUARTERS Ashland Inc. 50 East RiverCenter Blvd. Covington, KY U.S.A. Tel: REGIONAL CENTERS Europe Switzerland Tel: Fax: India Maharashtra Tel: Fax: The information contained in this brochure and the various products described are intended for use only by persons having technical skill and at their own discretion and risk after they have performed necessary technical investigations, tests and evaluations of the products and their uses. Certain end uses of these products may be regulated pursuant to rules or regulations governing medical devices, drug uses, or pesticidal or antimicrobial uses. It is the end user s responsibility to determine the applicability of such regulations to its products. All statements, information, and data presented herein are believed to be accurate and reliable, but are not to be taken as a guarantee of fitness for a particular purpose, or representation, express or implied, for which seller assumes legal responsibility. No freedom to use any patent owned by Ashland, its subsidiaries, or its suppliers is to be inferred. Asia Pacific Singapore Tel: Fax: Middle East, Africa Dubai, U.A.E. Tel: Fax: Latin America Mexico Tel: Fax: personalcare@ashland.com ashland.com Registered trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries Trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries 2016, Ashland / PC