OYA Circle of Success: Corrective Color Script

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1 OYA Circle of Success: Corrective Color Script OYA Presentation Prep: KEEP IN MIND THAT SOME SLIDES INCLUDE ANIMATIONS OF CONTENT AND NOT ALL CONTENT WITHIN A SLIDE WILL APPEAR UNTIL YOU CLICK. HAVE THE OYA TOOLS, STRAND CHART, AND LIGHTENER GUIDE AVAILBLE FOR VISUAL AID AND REFERENCE. Script Key 14 pt. font bold underlined text Beginning of PowerPoint slide ITALIC CAPITALIZED TEXT DIRECTION: ACTION. DO NOT READ ALOUD. 12 pt. font- non B I U text Dialogue guide & slide content Fuchsia bold text Emphasize Corrective Color - Introduction: (Slide 2) Hi, my name is, your OYA Artistic Instructor for today s class. Thank you for giving OYA this time today. Course Overview: (Slide 3) Here is an overview of the important aspects of learning about OYA Corrective Color: What is OYA? The OYA Circle of Success OYA Technology Meets Nature Structure of hair Hair texture OYA Color Globe - KISS System OYA Lightening Powder, OYA Lightening Rinse and OYA 0-00 Lightening Cream OYA Harmony Technique OYA Concentrates OYA -00 (N + ) Series The OYA Reference Guide OYA Lightener Guide OYA Tools The OYA Colorist App What is OYA?: (Slide 4) OYA stands for: Own Your Art OYA is hair color that performs, simply and beautifully. It s uncomplicated yet multi- 1

2 faceted. Developed by an international team of experts and made in the USA. Accessible, understandable, and highly functional. Synergistic and consistent. Always resulting in radiant, versatile, reflective color that retains the hair s integrity and shine. OYA is a private, independent, new venture, founded and supported by the Schwarzkopf family whose dedication to the professional hair industry has been consistent for 4 generations. OYA s is committed to the working stylists. We understand you. When you succeed, we succeed. And speaking of success. The OYA Circle of Success: (Slide 5) The Circle of Success brings stylists together, builds skill sets and creates strong partnerships and relationships. 3 Key Elements: Experience OYA - oyabeauty.com Comprehensive video tutorials on oyabeauty.com On tour with mini shows Master OYA - OYA Colorist App Cluster classes and in-salon education Share OYA - With your peers so that all skill levels are elevated Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest- Search OYAbeauty Hashtag: #OYA, #OYAbeauty, #OYAcolorist, #OYAcolor, etc. The Circle of Success will never break or separate and OYA will continuously share useful education and encourage your creative expression. OYA Technology Meets Nature: (Slide 6) PLAY VIDEO Here is our incredible technology story OYA s exclusive Natural Color Support Complex features two key ingredients: Green Tea and Sea Kelp. Our new color technology supports more predictable results and better color retention. 2

3 OYA Technology Meets Nature: (Slide 7) Green Tea Protect Powerful antioxidants (20x stronger than Vitamin E) prevents premature color fading Antioxidants protect the hair from outside influences (UV) increasing color retention Anti-inflammatory properties reduce scalp swelling Xanthines encourage scalp circulation and prevent irritation Delightful natural fragrance transforms every hair color application into a sensual experience OYA Technology Meets Nature: (Slide 8) Sea Kelp Restore Packed with 15 amino acids and minerals with rebalancing properties to vitalize and refresh hair and scalp Contains essential fatty acids that maintain and increase hair suppleness and elasticity Antioxidant algal polyphenols and carotenoids protect hair from damage and prolong hair color vibrancy by eliminating cell damaging free radicals Contains Vitamins A, C, D, E, K and folic acid for superior internal nourishment Soothes and moisturizes hair and scalp during and after the color service Reduces electrostatic charges to control frizz and flyaways Helps repair damaged hair Structure of Hair: (Slide 9) Understanding the structure of hair will help you visualize what happens when hair is colored. Hair is divided into 3 distinct layers: Hair Cuticle - this is the window to the hair colorist world. This is where OYA Demi Permanent Color lives. The outer part of the hair consists of layers of keratinized protein, protecting the soft inner cortex. The importance of keeping the integrity and strength of this cuticle layer should not be understated. When the cuticle is intact, you have excellent color retention and shine. Cortex - this is the space inside the hair strand where hair color will be altered or changed permanently. The cortex is the largest part of the hair where all the chemical and physical processes take place when it comes to OYA Permanent Color. Inside the cortex there are two types of melanin that affect artificial color and are of the utmost importance to the hair colorist, they are: eumelanin and pheomelanin. Eumelanin is the melanin, responsible for the darkness or lightness of the hair being brown or black. The large molecules naturally occur in the cortex and are easy to lift and remove. Low concentrations of eumelanin result in lighter colored hair and high concentrations of eumelanin result in darker colored hair. 3

4 Pheomelanin is the naturally occurring yellow and red pigments found in warm hair colors. The small molecules exist in the cortex and are difficult to lift or remove. Pheomelanin creates a foundation for artificial color pigments especially when you are coloring gray hair. Gray hair is the lack of eumelanin and pheomelanin. Medulla - most inner structure of the hair shaft. When over processed, it affects the integrity of structure. When the medulla structure is compromised, the result is faster fading and difficulty in achieving complete coverage. Hair Texture: (Slide 10) Determining your customer s hair texture will assist you with your hair color formulations in 3 ways: Fine textured hair has less space to fill so you may need to formulate up by 1 level Medium textured hair should be formulated per manufacturers recommendations Coarse textured hair has more space to fill so you may need to formulate down 1 level Texture affects timing. Coarser texture may require additional timing for gray coverage. The Basic Color Theory Primary Colors: (Slide 11) PLAY MOVIE Any color is based on the universal law of color. The universal law of color states that mixing different combinations of the three primary colors can create any and all colors. The primary colors are: red, yellow, and blue. Understanding the universal law of color is a prerequisite to success as a colorist. The Basic Color Theory Secondary Colors: (Slide 12) By mixing equal portions of 2 primary colors, you create a secondary color. The 3 secondary colors are: green, orange and violet Blue + yellow = green Yellow + red = orange Red + blue = violet 4

5 The Basic Color Theory Tertiary Colors: (Slide 13) By mixing a primary color with a secondary color, a tertiary color is created. The tertiary colors are: Yellow-Green Yellow-Orange Red-Orange Red-Violet Blue-Violet Blue-Green The Basic Color Theory Brown or Neutral tones: (Slide 14) Mixing all three primary colors, using equal portions of each will result in brown. In the hair color world, this is called a neutral. Brown (or neutral) is where the OYA Natural Series lives. The Basic Color Theory The Color Wheel Opposites: (Slide 15) The color wheel is a tool used to help visualize color theory. The 3 primary colors are arranged around the wheel with their secondary and tertiary colors between them. Colors that appear opposite of each other on the wheel neutralize each other. Violet & yellow neutralized each other. Blue & orange neutralize each other. Green & red neutralize each other. In the color theory world these are called color opposites. The Basic Color Theory Opposites: (Slide 16) Notice that the opposite of a primary color is always a secondary color: Violet (secondary) is the opposite of yellow (primary) Orange (secondary) is the opposite of blue (primary) Green (secondary) is the opposite of red (primary) We know that a secondary color is the combination of 2 primary colors. 5

6 Example: Orange = Red + Yellow The Basic Color Theory Remembering Opposites: (Slide 17) When mixing a primary color with a secondary color, you are truly mixing all three primary colors together. Mixing opposites example: Violet (secondary) + Yellow (primary) is the same as Blue (primary) + Red (primary) + Yellow (primary) = Brown or Neutral In other words (Primary + Primary + Primary) = Neutral As started before, mixing all primary colors results in brown or neutral. The Basic Color Theory Remembering Opposites: (Slide 18) If you ever need to remember the opposite of a primary color, mix the other two primaries together and you know it s opposite. For example: o To remember the opposite of blue, we know the other two primaries are yellow and red. o If we mix yellow and red together we get orange. o Orange is blue s opposite If you ever need to remember the opposite of a secondary color, think of which two primary colors mix together to make that secondary color. Whatever primary color is not in the secondary color is its opposite. For example: o To remember the opposite of green we need to know that blue and yellow make green. Blue and yellow are primaries. The only primary color not in green is red. Red is green s opposite. The Basic Color Theory Warm Tones & Cool Tones: (Slide 19) When using a color brand, it is important to know where each color lives in the universal color wheel. This will allow you to see if the color/shade lives in the cool, warm or neutral part of the color wheel. When coloring hair, first determine where the customer s existing color lives on the wheel. This will dictate whether you will enhance the color or neutralize the existing color. The OYA Color Wheel Underlying Pigment: (Slide 20) 6

7 When lifting natural hair color, you will expose underlying pigment. If you want to enhance or keep the color WARM, choose a color that lives in the OYA warm tones. If you want to enhance or keep the color COOL, choose a color that lives in the OYA cool tones. Underlying Pigments: (Slide 21) When lightening the hair all color levels have underlying pigment. This OYA color globe shows you what the underlying pigments are on each level and how to neutralize them. The OYA -01 Series exists in the cool tones of this color globe. The OYA -01 Series is designed to neutralize the warmth that appears when exposing the underlying pigments. As you can see, the OYA -01 Series exists within all three cool tones: green, blue, and violet. On this color globe the arrows indicate the exact opposite of the warm tones that are neutralized by their opposite cool tones. These opposites are: Red & Green Yellow & Purple Orange & Blue Underlying Pigments Levels: (Slide 22) PLAY MOVIE When lightening natural hair, warm tones called underlying pigments are exposed. These warm tones are different at each natural level and will influence the final color result. Review & Q&A: (Slide 23) TAKE THE TIME TO ADDRESS ANY QUESTIONS OR CONCERNS. THIS IS AN ESSENTIAL PART OF CLASS TIME AND ALLOWS FOR CLARITY AND BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF CONTENT. 7

8 The OYA KISS Keep It Simple System: (Slide 24) This universal color wheel on the OYA Color Globe shows us where each of the OYA Series live. As you can see, the OYA Red, Mahogany and Ash Series are dispersed over the color wheel. All other OYA Series are grouped within a color direction. For example, the -01 Ash Series appears across green, blue, and purple on the OYA Color Globe. However, the -7 Copper Series only appears on orange within the OYA Color Globe. -0 & -00 Series: live in the brown tone -01 Series: we will go into these on the next slide -04 Series: yellow based -5 Series: yellow-orange or gold based -6 Series: from cool red base in the lower levels to warmer red-orange base in the higher levels -7 Series: orange based -8 Series: from cool violet red base in the lower levels to warmer red base in the higher levels -87 Series: red-orange base -9 Series: violet base KISS - The OYA -01 Series: (Slide 25) PLAY VIDEO All color levels have underlying pigments that show up when lightening the hair. The OYA -01 Series below shows you what the underlying pigments are on each level and how to neutralize them. It is designed to neutralize the warmth that comes with the underlying pigments. As you can see, the OYA -01 Series has 3 different color bases: green, blue and violet. This is simply because reds can only be neutralized by green; orange shades can only be neutralized by blue; and yellow shades can only be neutralized by violet. KISS - Coloring Lighter: (Slide 26) This section of the OYA KISS System shows you which formulas to use for: All levels of lift when using the OYA 100% Gray Coverage Series GESTURE TO CHART SECTION All levels of lift when using the OYA Fashion Series for < 50% gray GESTURE TO CHART SECTION All levels of lift when using the OYA Fashion Series for > 50% gray GESTURE TO CHART SECTION 8

9 KISS - Coloring Darker: (Slide 27) This section of the OYA KISS System shows you which formulas to use for: Darkening 4 levels & down, on pre-lightened or blonde hair GESTURE TO CHART SECTION Tone on tone & darkening for < 50% gray hair GESTURE TO CHART SECTION Tone on tone & darkening for > 50% gray hair GESTURE TO CHART SECTION Tone on tone & darkening for > 90% gray hair GESTURE TO CHART SECTION 100% Gray Coverage: Mix these corresponding series in a 2:1 ratio with the OYA Fashion Series (50% gray), depending on percentage of gray. If it s more than 90% gray, use up to a 1:1 ratio: -0 (N) with Mahogany and Ash Shades (-6 and -9) -04 (B) with the warm shades (-7, -8, -87, -5) -01 (A) with the cool shades when lifting 3 levels (-9) Used alone, these 3 Series provide 100% gray coverage Mix only 1/3 of the OYA Natural + Series into your formulas or up to ½ depending on resistance. -00 (N + ) for resistant gray ONLY -00 (N + ) has the potential to drab color, so only use in formulas for resistant gray hair Lotion: For ultimate gray coverage, use OYA 20 vol. Lotion and process for 45 minutes. 50% Gray Coverage: OYA Fashion Shades are mixed in a 1:1 ratio with 10, 20, 30, or 40 vol. OYA Lotion. Corrective Color - Consultation: (Slide 28) PLAY VIDEO Always begin each consultation with the OYA Strand Chart in your hand. Why? Typically, the reason why customers end up unhappy with the results of their color is due to a poor consultation. Be extremely thorough in your consultation and make 9

10 sure you are addressing their concerns. Using the OYA Strand Chart is a crucial tool in developing your consultation because you both have a visual to work from. Ask open-ended questions about why your customer is unhappy with his or her color. For example, was the color applied professionally or at home? Allow your customer to give you as much information as possible. Once you have both agreed upon the target color you can inform the customer of what the commitment will be. Always cross reference your final formula with your OYA App. Combine this information and use the OYA Strand Chart as your consultation tool. Discuss the target shade and show your customer all of the options possible within the strand chart. Evaluate the shade. Will it complement your customer s skin tone and eye color? To make sure, place the selected shade next to your customer s cheek. Be sure to fan the shade swatch out since it may appear darker when it's compact. Together, you can then decide if the color is flattering to your customer. Helpful Customer Information: Hair color history: This information will help determine what color correction method we will use. Exercise regimen What about the at home ritual? Every color service starts with your customer s consultation, and a great consultation always results in a great color service. What look do they want to achieve: The next top 10 color challenges will help give you solutions to your color concerns. Give your customer realistic expectations on what you can reasonably achieve within a certain time frame to produce a healthy, successful outcome. Top 10 Color Challenges: (Slide 29) One of our most challenging chemical services is corrective color. This is where our skill sets are pushed to achieve the most amazing results while having to work on compromised hair, or hair with multiple tones and depths. The TOP TEN corrective challenges: 1. Too light 2. Too dark 3. Too warm 4. Too cool 5. Hot Roots 6. Resistant gray 7. Lackluster ends 10

11 8. Faded color 9. Off swatch 10. Color bands Corrective Color - Too Light: (Slide 30) PLAY VIDEO This could be the result of not identifying the natural level accurately, color level chosen was too high, developer strength was too high, or color/lightener being left on too long. What is the target shade? How many levels off from the target shade? What is the condition of their hair? First, determine how many levels too light the color is. Next, consider what underlying pigments you will need to control or enhance. If the color is 3 levels or less too light, you can simply choose the target shade in OYA Demi Permanent color and apply it. When the current level is 4 or more levels too light, you will need to prepigment prior to applying the target color. You will need to pre-pigment with the warm tone that exists at the target level. Remember, pre-pigmenting adds contributing tone and depth to the target result, so stay in the tone you want your color to be. When you are re-depositing color on pre-lightened hair and it is missing underlying pigment, it is recommended to fill the hair shaft first with the underlying pigment at the desired level. Mix 1 part OYA Concentrate with 3 parts water, then proceed with the proper formula. Process minutes. o OYA Concentrates Formula - to be used as fill tones: 1:3 parts! Make sure to apply it on the areas to be absorbed. Do not over saturate. Level 1-3 Fill with Red Concentrate Level 4-6 Fill with Orange Concentrate Level 7+ Fill with Yellow Concentrate After the processing time is complete, wipe off the fill formula and proceed with the target shade formula. Corrective Color - Color Solutions for Too Light: (Slide 31) Step 1: Target shade Step 2: Current Step 3: Percentage of gray 5-04 (B) Beige Light Brown Pre-lightened Level 9 Natural Extra Light Blond Less than 50% gray 11

12 Pre-pigment: 25g OYA Orange Concentrate + 75g water minutes Wipe pre-pigment formula off after processing time is complete, then apply the following formula: Formula: 60g 5-04 (B) + 60g 10 vol. OYA Lotion minutes If current Level 9 is natural, there is no need to pre-pigment. -04 is a warm gold with all 3 primaries. With the Orange Concentrate pre- pigmenting step, you will reach your target shade. Corrective Color - Too Dark: (Slide 32) What is the target shade? How many levels off from the target shade? What is the condition of their hair? Hair color that is too dark could be the result of a previously incorrect consultation and formulation, using a permanent color on mid lengths & ends or the developer strength is too high. How many levels too dark is the color? Remember, color cannot lighten color, so you may need to incorporate OYA Lightening products here. OYA Lightening Techniques: OYA Lightening Rinse (equal portions of the following): o OYA Lightening Powder + 20 vol. OYA Lotion + shampoo! Used on damp hair when you need one to two levels of lift and to remove color tone! Apply first on darkest area, avoiding the regrowth. Timing will be visual. OYA Lightening Cream (0-00) o Use on color banding with equal portions of 30 or 40 vol. OYA Lotion to balance the color level.! Will lift old, worn color.! Not recommended on new color. OYA Lightening Powder + OYA Lotion, then tone o Use when 5 or more levels of lift is desired followed by toner or target shade formula Lift to one level lighter than desired shade. OYA Lightening Powder: (Slide 33) 12

13 OYA Lightening Powder offers the greatest benefits available in powder lightener. Up to 7 levels of lift Aloe Vera for its restorative properties Light blue based A soothing herbal tea fragrance Mixing ratio 1:2 (1 part powder with 2 parts OYA Lotion) Off scalp application Mixing ratio: 1:2 with 10 vol. (3%), 20 vol. (6%), or 30 vol. (9%) OYA Lotion. Up to 40 minutes at room temperature. Pre-lightening and toning is the preferred method when you need more than 4 levels of lift. This is an all over color effect instead of a highlighted effect. Never use heat or use 40 vol. Lotion with the OYA Lightening Powder. BY NOW YOU SHOULD HAVE A FEEL FOR YOUR AUDIENCE. IF YOU FEEL THEY NEED A WALK THROUGH APPLICATION CONTINUE BY READING THE FOLLOWING STEPS, OTHERWISE SKIP AHEAD TO CORRECTIVE COLOR COLOR SOLUTIONS FOR TOO DARK: (SLIDE 21). Begin your pre-lightening application at the bottom of the nape. Create a 1/8 inch horizontal parting that extends from the center of the nape to behind one ear. Clip the rest of the hair out of the way. Beginning 1 inch away from the scalp, apply the OYA Lightening Powder to the mid lengths & ends with slow gentle brush strokes. Create a second parting directly above the first one and apply the OYA Lightening Powder as before. Work throughout the first back quadrant in this manner. Complete the opposite back quadrant. Repeat the application in the front 2 quadrants. Now, throughout each quadrant, apply OYA Lightening Powder to all of the regrowth sections with slow gentle brush strokes, until the entire head is complete. Avoid contact with scalp. In the front quadrants, direct the hair back from the face for customer comfort. Process up to 40 minutes at room temperature. When processing is complete, emulsify, rinse, shampoo and condition the hair. Now we need to tone with your target OYA Demi Permanent Color and 5 vol. OYA Lotion. Remember, you can always use the OYA Demi Permanent Clear with your demi formulas to add incredible shine. Corrective Color - Color Solutions for Too Dark: (Slide 34) Step 1: Target shade 6-5 (G) Gold Dark Blond 13

14 Step 2: Current Step 3: Percentage of gray Formula: OYA Permanent: OYA Demi Permanent: Level 5 Natural Light Brown colored to a 4-6 (M) Mahogany Medium Brown Less than 50% gray 30g OYA Lightening Powder + 60g 20 vol. OYA Lotion Lift to a Level 7 (gold) 60g 6-5 (G) + 60g 10 vol. OYA Lotion minutes 60g 6-5 (G) + 60g 5 vol. OYA Lotion minutes Example: The customer s natural level is a 5, but they have minimal regrowth. The rest of their hair is a 4-6 (M), but it is too dark for them. They wish their target shade to be Gold Dark Blond, 6-5 (G). o 30g OYA Lightening Powder + 60g 20 vol. OYA Lotion o Visually lift to a Level 7, gold. o Use these underlying pigments to enhance the target shade of 6-5 Gold Dark Blond. o Use the OYA Permanent formula on the regrowth, and the OYA Demi Permanent formula on the ends. It is impossible to lift color with color. Therefore, a double process is necessary: lighten and deposit. Corrective Color - Too Warm: (Slide 35) What is the target shade? How many levels off from the target shade? What is the condition of their hair? Solutions: Use the -01 Ash Shades to control unwanted warm tones caused by underlying pigment. Use the Violet Concentrate to neutralize unwanted warmth in Levels 6 through 10. Use the Blue Concentrate to neutralize any unwanted warmth on Levels 1 through 5. Too much warmth may be the result of using permanent color and not taking into consideration the tone contributing to the underlying pigment. 14

15 The OYA KISS system will greatly assist you with identifying the precise warmth and the neutralizing tone on the opposite side of the OYA Color Globe. Solutions: Use the OYA -01 Ash Series on all levels to control unwanted warm tones caused by underlying pigment. If more control is necessary, you can add these concentrates to your formula: Levels 8 through 10: Add up to 5% of the amount of OYA Color used If using 60g OYA color, add up to 3g Violet Concentrate Levels 6 through 7: Add up to 15% of the amount of OYA color used If using 60g OYA color, add up to 9g Violet Concentrate Levels 1 through 5: Add up to 25% of the amount of OYA color used If using 60g OYA color, add up to 15g Blue Concentrate Make sure the OYA Lotion is equal to the total formula of OYA Color and OYA Concentrate. Corrective Color - Color Solutions for Too Warm: (Slide 36) Step 1: Target shade Step 2: Current Step 3: Percentage of gray 7-0 (N) Natural Medium Blond 7-6 (M) Mahogany Medium Blond Less than 50% gray OYA Permanent: OYA Demi Permanent: 60g 7-0 (N) + 3g Violet + 60g 10 vol. OYA Lotion 60g 7-0 (N) + 3g Violet + 60g 5 vol. OYA Lotion minutes Your customer s previously colored hair is a 7-6 (M) and they want to be a level 7 Natural Medium Blond without any warmth. Corrective Color - Too Cool: (Slide 37) What is the target shade? How many levels off from the target shade? What is the condition of their hair? Now is the time to utilize the OYA KISS System. How much cooler is the color? What is the neutralizing tone on the opposite side of the OYA Color Globe? We can see that we need to use red to neutralize blue/green cool tones. Now we have to consider how permanent is our too cool challenge. 15

16 When a permanent color is used, the target color is in the cortex. This makes our correction more challenging. Solutions: Use the -04 (B) Beige Series to create a warm balance. Use the -5 (G), -6 (M), -7 (C), -8 (R), -87 (RC) Shades to create rich, flawless, and warm Fashion Shades Use the OYA Yellow Concentrate for enhancing gold shades Use the OYA Orange Concentrate to enhance warmth in copper and red copper shades Use the OYA Red Concentrate to neutralize unwanted ash tones or to increase vibrancy in red and violet shades The OYA Concentrates are designed as a pre-pigment or toner to intensify or neutralize tones. To enhance warmth: Levels 8 through 10: Add up to 5% of OYA Concentrate to the amount of OYA Color used If using 60g OYA Color, add up to 3g OYA Concentrate Levels 6 through 7: Add up to 15% of OYA Concentrate to the amount of OYA Color used If using 60g OYA Color, add up to 9g OYA Concentrate Levels 1 through 5: Add up to 25% of OYA Concentrate to the amount of OYA Color used If using 60g OYA color, add up to 15g OYA Concentrate Make sure the developer is equal to the amount of the total formula of OYA Color and OYA Concentrate. Formula for OYA Concentrates used as fill tones: 1:3 parts 25g OYA Concentrate + 75g water minutes Make sure to apply it on the areas to absorb. Do not over saturate. Corrective Color - Color Solutions for Too Cool: (Slide 38) Step 1: Target shade Step 2: Current Step 3: Percentage of gray Formula: OYA Permanent: OYA Demi Permanent: 5-5 (G) Gold Light Brown 3-9 (V) Violet Dark Brown Less than 50% gray 30g OYA Lightening Power + 60g 20 vol. OYA Lotion to lift 3-9 (V) 60g 5-5 (G) + 60g 10 vol. OYA Lotion minutes 60g 5-5 (G) + 60g 5 vol. OYA Lotion 16

17 10-20 minutes Corrective Color - Hot Roots : (Slide 39) What is the target shade? How many levels off from the target shade? What is the condition of their hair? A few of the most common reasons hot roots occur are: Developer higher than 20 vol. was used from regrowth to ends Percentage of gray was not exact in previous formula, resulting in little to no gray coverage Constant refresh of all over permanent color Use OYA Demi Permanent Shades to keep hair in optimum condition and add fabulous shine. This is the perfect example of where the OYA Harmony Techniques is effective. Corrective Color - Color Solutions for Hot Roots : (Slide 40) Solutions for Hot Roots are formulated on a case-by-case basis. What is your target shade? To neutralize warmth at the regrowth, reformulate with the target color and introduce either -0 (N) or -01 (A) into the formula. If you re not covering gray, use OYA Demi Permanent Color and watch the development time carefully. If you need to cover gray, use OYA Permanent Color with -0 (N), -01 (A), or -04 (B) into the formula to compensate for the lack of gray coverage at the regrowth. Refer to the OYA KISS System or the OYA App for your target formulation. Always use 20 vol. (6%) OYA Lotion to cover gray with a processing time of 45 minutes. Hot Roots are a common result of constant refresh of all over permanent color. Use OYA Demi Permanent Shades to keep hair in optimum condition and add fabulous shine. Step 1: Target shade Step 2: Current Step 3: Percentage of gray 5-8 (R) Red Light Brown 6-87 (RC) Red Copper Dark Blond regrowth with 5-8 (R) Red Light Brown on mid lengths & ends 100% visible gray Formulas: OYA Permanent Regrowth: 20g 5-8 (R) + 10g 5-04 (B) + 30g 20 vol. OYA Lotion 45 minutes 17

18 OYA Demi Permanent Mid lengths & ends: Total process time: 60g Clear + 60g 5 vol. OYA Lotion minutes min Apply your OYA Demi Permanent Color immediately after your regrowth application. This is called the OYA Harmony Technique. Total process time is minutes. OYA Harmony Technique: (Slide 41) PLAY VIDEO The OYA Harmony Technique is applied when OYA Permanent and OYA Demi Permanent Colors are used together, creating seamless color results, with better color retention, while nourishing hair integrity. 1. Section Hair into four quadrants. a. Use the corresponding shade that works in synergy with OYA Permanent Color utilizing the OYA Harmony Technique. 2. Apply OYA Permanent Color to regrowth using OYA Lotion in a 1:1 ratio a. Begin your OYA Harmony Technique application by outlining each of the 4 quadrants with OYA Permanent Color for optimum control of the entire head. b. Within each quadrant apply OYA Permanent Color in horizontal sections i. Beginning at the nape, create a ¼ inch thick horizontal parting that extends from the center of the nape to behind one ear. ii. Clip the rest of the hair out of the way. iii. Apply the OYA Permanent Color to the regrowth using a small brush. Use precise brush strokes and apply the color thoroughly, evenly and generously. iv. Now complete the opposite back quadrant. Repeat the application in the front two quadrants. 3. Immediately after step two s application, apply OYA Demi Permanent formula to the mid lengths & ends. a. Mix the corresponding OYA Demi Permanent Color with 5 vol. OYA Lotion. Using your large brush, return to your first section and apply the Demi Permanent Color to the mid lengths & ends with slow gentle brush strokes until entire head is complete. b. In the front quadrants, after application, direct the hair back from the face for customer comfort. 4. Process for minutes When development is complete, emulsify, rinse, shampoo and condition the hair. OYA Harmony Technique Results & Benefits: (Slide 42) 18

19 With the OYA Harmony Technique, you will create seamless color results. Once gray coverage is achieved, the OYA Harmony Technique will create added shine and condition to the hair, always leaving a consistent tone. OYA Demi Permanent Color will last from touch up to touch up, between applications of OYA Permanent Color. OYA Harmony Technique helps eliminate the cycle of fading created from using ammonia and developer, time and time again, on the mid lengths & ends. This technique provides long lasting color results while always keeping the hair s integrity strong and healthy. OYA Demi Permanent Color is used with a dedicated 5 vol. OYA Lotion in a 1:1 ratio. It is gentle and safe for all hair types. Review & Q&A: (Slide 43) TAKE THE TIME TO ADDRESS ANY QUESTIONS OR CONCERNS. THIS IS AN ESSENTIAL PART OF CLASS TIME AND ALLOWS FOR CLARITY AND BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF CONTENT. OYA -00 (N + ) Natural Plus Series - For Resistant Gray Hair: (Slide 44) PLAY VIDEO Resistant gray hair can happen due to the aging process. The production of melanin starts to slow down or stop. The cuticle can become constricted or tight and the cortex can begin to harden resulting in gray hair that is difficult to color. This type of hair is called resistant gray hair. Not everyone has resistant gray hair. Approximately 1 out of every 25 customers has resistant gray hair. Successfully covering resistant gray hair is possible with OYA -00 (N + ) Natural Plus gray coverage series. -00 (N + ) Advantages: The -00 (N + ) Series has more pigment and higher ammonia content, which results in superior gray coverage. -00 (N + ) Natural Plus provides ultimate coverage on all levels of resistant gray hair. The OYA -00 (N + ) series performs at an optimal level when the amount of -00 (N + ) used in the formula is adjusted in accordance with the level of resistance. 19

20 -00 (N + ) is more drab in order to counteract the underlying pigment during the lifting and depositing process -00 (N + ) has more ammonia to help open the cuticle on resistant gray hair -00 (N + ) has more pigment to compensate for the white hair, which has stopped producing melanin OYA solution: Identify how much of the gray was covered. Remember, using the OYA Gray % Selector is a good indicator of how much 100% Gray Coverage Series should be in your formula. If your customer is 75% gray, your formula needs to include one of the four OYA 100% Gray Coverage Series and be in a high proportion of the formula (up to half). Always intermix with another OYA Shade for best results. Match -00 (N + ) with up to ½ of your 100% Gray Coverage Series in your formula. RESISTANT GRAY HAIR COVERAGE MADE EASY WITH OYA: (Slide 45) 1 out of 25 customers has resistant gray hair -00 (N + ) Natural Plus Series is intended to be included in your OYA 100% Gray Coverage formula VIRGIN APPLICATION Step 1: Target color Step 2: Natural Level Step 3: Percentage of gray 5-8 (R) Red Light Brown 4 Natural Medium Brown 90% resistant gray or more Regrowth: 20g 5-8 (R) +15g 5-04 (B) + 15g 5-00 (N + ) + 50g 20 vol. OYA Lotion 45 minutes Mid lengths & ends: 30g 5-8 (R) + 15g 5-04 (B) + 15g 5-00 (N + ) + 60g 30 vol. OYA Lotion 45 minutes Result: Red Light Brown The -00 (N + ) Natural Plus Series is a tool for covering resistant gray hair and should not be used alone. Always intermix with another OYA shade for best results. -00 (N + ) Natural Plus Contains more pigment and higher ammonia content. Corrective Color: Lackluster Ends: (Slide 46) What is the target shade? How many levels off from target shade? 20

21 What is the condition of their hair? Causes: Buildup of color from constantly refreshing with permanent color throughout regrowth, mid lengths & ends Over controlling of warm underlying pigments due to excessive application of ashy tones Inconsistent porosity Lackluster, or muddy ends, is a common result of constant refresh of all over permanent color. Instead use OYA Demi Permanent with the OYA Harmony Technique, providing seamless results. Color Solutions for Lackluster Ends: (Slide 47) Here is a perfect example where the OYA Harmony Technique is effective, and can prevent the result of lackluster ends, providing seamless shine and color. Use OYA Lightening Rinse to remove unwanted cool tone prior to the OYA Harmony Technique. Porosity plays a big role in formulating for pre-treated hair: Often, we need to pre-lighten the ends in order to get the darker, stubborn, violet ash tones off of the ends Next, deposit the second shade for seamless color and incredible shine Step 1: Target shade Step 2: Current color Step 3: Percentage of gray 7-5 (G) Gold Medium Blond 7-5 (G) Gold Medium Blond regrowth 6-9 (V) Violet Dark Blond ends Less than 50% gray Formula: OYA Permanent: OYA Demi Permanent: OYA Lightening Rinse to remove violet tone: OYA Lightening Powder + 20 vol. OYA Lotion + shampoo (1:1:1) Lift to a Level 8 (yellow/gold) 60g 7-5 (G) + 60g 10 vol. OYA Lotion min 60g 7-5 (G) + 60g 5 vol. OYA Lotion min Corrective Color - Faded Color: (Slide 48) What is the target shade? How many levels off from target shade? What is the condition of their hair? Causes: 21

22 Compromised cuticle Insufficient processing time Skipped pre-pigmentation formula Constant refresh with permanent color on regrowth, mid lengths & ends Chlorine in swimming pools UV exposure Lack of a healthy home maintenance plan Color Solutions for Faded Color: (Slide 49) OYA Permanent Color has ammonia and is designed to gently alter the internal structure of hair. Another common cause of color fading is that it doesn t deposit correctly due to insufficient timing and mixing. Once the target shade is achieved with OYA Permanent Color, always use the Harmony Technique to maintain the mid lengths & ends of your customer s color, with OYA Demi Permanent Color. Step 1: Target shade Step 2: Current color Step 3: Percentage of gray Pre-pigment: 6-04 (B) Beige Dark Blond 6-04 (B) Beige Dark Blond on regrowth 10-5 (G) Gold Ultra Light Blond on pre-lightened ends Less than 50% gray 25g Orange Concentrate + 75g water minutes Wipe pre-pigment formula off after processing time is complete, then apply the following formula: Formula: OYA Permanent OYA Demi Permanent 60g 6-04 (B) + 60g 10 vol. OYA Lotion minutes 60g g 5 vol. OYA Lotion minutes Corrective Color - Off Swatch: (Slide 50) What is the target shade? How many levels off from target shade? What is the condition of their hair? Causes: Insufficient consultation Improper use of Natural Level Selector and Gray % Selector 22

23 Processing time Wrong developer Repeated use of permanent color through mid lengths & ends Lack of underlying pigment consideration in formula Corrective Color - Important Points to Consider: (Slide 51) Target color is it achievable? Just because the customer chose it, doesn t mean they can have it! The shade chosen by a costumer may be too many levels off from their current level. Solution: Informing a customer of the risks of damaging their hair may help them make a different choice. Make other recommendations to assistant in a successful consultation Natural level was it identified accurately? Solution: Place the OYA Natural Level Selector next to your customer s scalp in two places at the crown and nape To get the most accurate reading, fan the swatch out and place it directly upon the customer s hair. This will allow a clear visual reading Remember how important the natural levels of hair are, due to the underlying pigment at each level. Being off by one level could alter your final color result. Take your time on this step! It will pay off Consider the underlying pigment difference in just one Natural Level and the importance of the OYA Lotion strength Gray percentage was it identified accurately? Consider how much gray will contribute to your formula and the importance of the OYA Lotion strength. Always use the OYA Gray % Selector to assist you in determining the exact percentage of gray hair. This will dramatically affect the end color result. 50% gray: will be completely covered by any OYA Permanent Color Over 50% gray: you must intermix with any of the 100% Gray Coverage Series; -0 (N), -00 (N + ), -01(A) or -04 (B) Optimum gray coverage requires 20 vol. OYA Lotion and full processing time of 45 minutes Corrective Color - Color Solutions for Off Swatch: (Slide 52) Step 1: Target shade Step 2: Current color 6-5 (G) Gold Dark Blond 8-5 (G) Gold Light Blond 23

24 Step 3: Percentage of gray Less than (>) 50% gray Formulas: Option 1: OYA Permanent Option 2: OYA Demi Permanent 60g 6-5 (G) + 60g 10 vol. OYA Lotion minutes 60g 6-5 (G) + 60g 5 vol. OYA Lotion minutes Corrective Color - Color Banding: (Slide 53) Color banding caused by different color formulas, different shade proportions and fluctuating developer strengths. Normally found in the mid lengths area. In this challenge you will encounter both dark color bands and light color bands. What is the target shade? How many levels off from target shade? What is the condition of their hair? Causes: Use of over the counter hair color Inconsistent use of color formulas Buildup of color by constantly refreshing mid length & ends with permanent color Over controlling of warm underlying pigments due to excessive application of ashy tones Inconsistent porosity Corrective Color - Color Banding Solution: (Slide 54) Color banding is apparent when you can easily see these bands during your consultation. You have to remove them before applying your target color. Solution: The OYA Lightening Cream 0-00 is a versatile product that can be utilized to remove color banding. Mix in a 1:1 ratio with 30 or 40 vol. OYA Lotion Section the hair in 4 quadrants. Starting in the back, apply to the banding areas of concern using ¼ inch partings The timing will be visual. When processing is complete, shampoo the hair and proceed with the proper toning formula Corrective Color - Color Formula for Color Banding: (Slide 55) 24

25 Step 1: Target shade Step 2: Current color Step 3: Percentage of gray Formula: Option 1: OYA Permanent Option 2: OYA Demi Permanent: 8-0 (N) Natural Light Blond 8-0 (N) Natural Light Blond on regrowth 8-5 (G) Gold Light Blond on mid lengths 8-0 (N) Natural Light Blond on ends Less than 50% gray Lift the band with 30g 0-00 OYA Lightening Cream + 30g 30 vol. OYA Lotion The lifting processing time will be visual. 40g 8-0 (N)+ 40g 10 vol. OYA Lotion minutes 40g 8-0 (N) + 40g 5 vol. OYA Lotion minutes OYA Reference Guide: (Slide 56) GESTURE TO AND DESCRIBE THE DIFFERENT SECTIONS OF THE REFERENCE AND LIGHTENER GUIDE FOR THE NEXT TWO SLIDES. IF YOU ARE NOT USING POWERPOINT HAVE AN OYA LIGHTENER GUIDE IN HAND TO USE AS VISUAL AID AND REFERENCE. Everything you will ever need to know to excel with OYA Color is contained in the OYA Reference Guide. Located in the back of the OYA Strand Chart, this guide will give you an overview of the information needed to formulate with OYA Permanent color, OYA Demi Permanent Color, and OYA Lightening products. The OYA Reference Guide has a cool design and will easily pin up in your dispensary. OYA Lightener Guide: (Slide 57) This looks a lot like the OYA Reference Guide. Everything you will ever need to know to rock OYA Lightening products is contained in the OYA Lightener Guide. The OYA Lightener Guide will give you an overview of the information needed to formulate with OYA Lightening products, OYA Permanent Color, and OYA Demi Permanent Color. Of course, the Lightener Guide will pin up in your dispensary as well. Emulsifying OYA Color: (Slide 58) PLAY VIDEO 25

26 Slowly add warm water Work fingers in a circular motion Emulsify entire head Rinse and shampoo Rinse and condition After the development time, slowly add warm water and gently work fingers in a circular motion around the hairline. As more water is added, emulsify the color into a light lather and rinse until the water runs clear. Finish with OYA Shampoo, Treatment and Leave-In Conditioner. Tools: (Slide 59) GESTURE TO POWERPOINT AND/OR TOOLS IN PERSON The tools used will make a difference in the color result. OYA has chosen the best in design. OYA Tools include: Brushes Small brush for precision and smaller surface areas Large brush for applications on larger surface areas Bowls designed to support your brush properly Bottles accurate and easy to squeeze Scales lightweight and easy to read Timers small and accurate Capes large design for better coverage Aprons designed to protect more of your clothing Precise measurements and timing are the secrets to perfect color. If you don t combine the correct amount of OYA Color and OYA Lotion, you will not get the results that you expect. That s why OYA recommends using a scale to measure all of your color formulas. While the bowl is on the scale, be sure the scale reads zero. PLAY VIDEO DEMO SCALE Formulating with the OYA Colorist App: (Slide 60) PLAY VIDEO OYA is with you wherever you go. It s a quick and effective helper for foolproof formulations in just a few easy steps! First, indicate what the customer's desired target color is. Second, indicate what the customer's natural level is. 26

27 Third, indicate what the percentage of gray hair is and lastly, indicate whether or not the application is a virgin application or a retouch application. And voila! The OYA App provides you with the formula of success, every time. The OYA Colorist App includes: Complete OYA mixing ratios Complete OYA timing info OYA Permanent and OYA Demi Permanent formulas Pre-pigmenting info Pre-lightening info Customer information Links to oyabeauty.com Download the OYA Colorist App: (Slide 61) iphone You will need to know your Apple ID password 1. Locate the App Store on your home screen and open 2. Touch the search icon at the bottom of the screen 3. Touch the search bar at the top of the screen and type in oyacolorist touch oyacolorist when it appears in your search results 4. An image of the OYA Colorist App will appear in the search result touch the FREE button (It may also appear as a cloud icon with an arrow pointing down) 5. The free button will turn into a green INSTALL button touch it to begin downloading 6. You will then be asked to type in your Apple ID but don t worry the app is free 7. Once downloading is complete the INSTALL button will become a OPEN button touch it to open the app and begin formulating. " " 27

28 Download the OYA Colorist App: (Slide 62) ipad: You will need your Apple ID password 1. Locate the App Store on your home screen and open 2. Touch the search icon at the top right of the screen 3. Before searching you must change the settings from ipad to iphone in the upper left corner indicated in the picture below 4. Touch the search bar at the top of the screen and type in oyacolorist 5. The OYA Colorist App will appear touch the icon or a small cloud with an arrow pointing down to begin the downloading process 6. The OYA Colorist App will open into its own window for downloading touch the small cloud again it will download then touch OPEN to begin formulating. " 28

29 Download the OYA Colorist App: (Slide 63) Android download instructions: Locate the Play Store icon on your home screen and open Touch the APPS menu at the top left of the screen Touch the search icon and type in oya colorist The OYA Colorist App will appear touch it to continue Touch install Touch permission Once it has downloaded successfully touch open to begin formulating Review and Q&A: (Slide 64) TAKE THE TIME TO ADDRESS ANY QUESTIONS OR CONCERNS. THIS IS AN ESSENTIAL PART OF CLASS TIME AND ALLOWS FOR CLARITY AND BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF CONTENT. REVIEW KEY CONCEPTS OF THE CLASS AND OFFER SUPPORT TO NEWER COLORISTS. Course Overview: What is OYA? The OYA Circle of Success OYA Technology Meets Nature Structure of hair Hair texture Basic Color Theory Underlying Pigment OYA Color Globe - KISS System Consultation Top Ten Color Challenges OYA Lightening Powder, OYA Lightening Rinse and OYA 0-00 Lightening Cream OYA Concentrates OYA Harmony Technique OYA -00 (N + ) Series The OYA Reference Guide OYA Lightener Guide OYA Tools 29

30 The OYA Colorist App Circle of Success with OYA: (Slide 65) NOW THAT THE SALON IS USING OYA COLOR AND PRODUCTS, OFFER THEM THE NEXT LOGICAL CLASS FOR THEIR NEEDS: Blonds and Sunshimmers Reds and Brunettes Gray Coverage REMIND THE CLASS THAT THERE IS ALSO 24/7 EDUCATION AVAILABLE ON OYABEAUTY.COM OYA Hotline: (Slide 66) OYA.411 ( ) Monday-Friday: 9am - 5pm PST 30

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