Educator Manual NOT FOR DISTRIBUTION

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1 Educator Manual

2 Section 1 - Hair Structure Amino Acids Protein chains Side Bonds Section 2 - Chemical Need to Know s (What NP Isn't) Formaldehyde Glyoxylic Acid Ammonia Section 3 - New Plastic F.A.Q s

3 Hair Structure Human hair is a complex structure consisting of several components, and each component consists of several different chemical types. It is an integrated system both in terms of its structure and in terms of its chemical and physical behavior. Their hair structure can be divided into three separate and distinct layers: the cuticle, the cortex and the medulla. The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair shaft and acts as a protective cover. Formed of colorless, translucent scales, is hydrophilic and has the ability to expand and contract as it takes on or gives up water. The function of the cuticle layer is to protect the cortex from injury and moisture loss. In order to create a permanent color change to the hair, we must first open the cuticle and gain entrance to the cortex. The cortex is actually the strongest and most vital part of healthy hair. the cortex is approximately 85% of the hairs total weight and consists of numerous twisting fibers of keratin protein, which run parallel to one another. This is where the natural pigments/melanin, are found. The medulla is the innermost portion of the hair shaft. It is composed of mostly soft keratin having no specific size or shape. The chemical makeup of hair Depending on its moisture content human hair consist of approximately 65 to 85% protein. proteins are condensation Polymers of amino acids. The remainder is made up of water, carbohydrates, lipids, pigment and mineral elements. Carbohydrates provide flexibility to the hair and lipids are the first line of defense and helps create shine. Minerals provide the hair with strength. Amino Acids Amino acids are compound molecules that link to create polypeptides and are commonly referred to as the building blocks of protein. There are two types of amino acids contained in the human body, essential and nonessential.

4 Non-essential - amino acids are created by the body and do not need to be supplemented by diet. Essential - amino acids however, must be supplemented in our daily diets because the human body does not produce them on its own. There are 21 different amino acids in the human body, 18 of which are found in the hair structure. Keratin protein, which makes up the majority of the hair, are made up of those 18 amino acids. The predominant amino acid found in hair's Cystine. Cystine provides the hair with much of its strength. Amino acids have an acid head and an amine tail. The amine tail is alkaline and represented with a negative (-) sign. The acid head is acidic and represented with a plus (+) sign. These amino acids connect up (+) to (-), end-to-end and fuse together to create a Peptide Bond, commonly known as an End Bond. Once you have more than one peptide in a chain of amino acids it becomes a polypeptide chain. All protein in the hair is made of polypeptide chains. A polypeptide chain will continue to grow into twisting coil like fibers called Helix coils. Approximately 7 to 9 of these helical coils twist and bond to form larger bundles called microfibrils. The less helical coils, the finer the hair will be. More helical coils the hair will be course. Many microfibrils twist around themselves, bond to form larger macrofibrils and then once again to form fibrils or cortical cells. The cortical cells twist and bond together to create the cortex. All of these coil like fibrils are cross-linked together by covalent or ionic bonds better known as cross bonds or side bonds. They are hydrogen, salt and disulfide bonds. Each side bond is responsible for approximately 1/3 of the structural strength of the hair. Hydrogen Bond Hydrogen bonds are ionic bonds and are relatively weak but, because they re great in number, hydrogen bonds provide approximately one-third of the strength of the hair.

5 Hydrogen bonds are easily broken down by heat or water and reformed by the drying process Salt Bond Salt bonds are also ionic and are formed by a positive and negative attraction of neighboring amino acids in the polypeptide chain. they are highly susceptible to changes in PH by either acidic or alkaline solutions. Disulfide Bond The disulfide bond is a covalent bond formed by the strong attraction between two sulfur atoms in the amino acid Cysteine which create Cystine. these bonds are fewer in number, if they are still responsible for approximately one-third of the strength of the hair. Disulfide bonds can only be broken down by a chemical reaction from reducing agents such as permanent waves, relaxers, tints and bleaches. Melanin The enzyme Tyrozinaze and the amino acid Tyrozine, Combine in the hair bold to create melanocytes. Melanocytes are cells that create all of the melanin found in hair skin and eyes. As melanin is formed, it travels up the hair shaft becomes keratinized and then physically becomes part of the cortex. Melanin makes up approximately 1% of the total hair structure. An individual s heritage determines the concentration of the particular type of melanin found in the individual. There are two types of melanin most often found in the hair: Eumelanin - Found predominantly in black brown and brunette hair, levels 1-5. It is black and brown in color, contains iron and when oxidized turns red. Pheomelanin - Found predominantly in red or blonde hair levels 6 and lighter. It is reddish orange in color and contains copper. Pheomelanin turns orange when oxidized.

6 Chemical Need to Knows: What is Formaldehyde: Formaldehyde is a naturally occurring organic compound with the formula CH 2 O (H-CHO). It is the simplest of the aldehydes (R-CHO) and is also known by its systematic name methanal. The common name of this substance comes from its similarity and relation to formic acid. Formaldehyde is an important precursor to many other materials and chemical compounds. In 1996, the installed capacity for the production of formaldehyde was estimated to be 8.7 million tons per year. ] It is mainly used in the production of industrial resins, e.g., for particle board and coatings. What are the Risks: *Fumes Emitted during straightening/smoothing treatments containing formaldehyde can cause; Burning eye irritation. Respiratory irritation. Irritation to nose and throat. Watering of eyes. Dry mouth. Loss of smell. Headaches. Feelings of nausea & grogginess. Known human carcinogen. *Car cin o gen /kärˈsinəjən,ˈkärsənəˌjen/ Noun noun: carcinogen plural noun: carcinogens 1. a substance capable of causing cancer in living tissue. * (TOXICOLOGICAL PROFILES, 2010) + (AGENCY FOR TOXIC SUBSTANCES AND DISEASE REGISTRY: TOXICOLOGICAL PROFILE FOR FORMALDEHYDE. IN TOXICOLOGICAL PROFILES. ATLANTA, GA.: DEPARTMENT OF HEALTH AND HUMAN SERVICES, 1999) *(NATIONAL TOXICOLOGY PROGRAM. SUBSTANCE PROFILE: FORMALDEHYDE. 12TH REPORT ON CARCINOGENS, 2011) *(WEBSTER S DICTIONARY)

7 What is Glyoxylic Acid: *Glyoxylic acid, either in solution or immobilized on MP-carbonate (MP-glyoxylate), participates in an uncatalyzed 3-CC with 2-aminoazines and isonitriles to afford novel 2-unsubstituted-3-amino-imidazoheterocycles. MP-glyoxylate serves as a particularly efficient and experimentally convenient formaldehyde equivalent and readily liberates products from the resin. These examples furthermore constitute the first application in which MP-CO3 serves as a solid support for transfo rmations involving carboxylic acids. The elasticity after straightening with Glyoxylol Carbocysteine is more damaging to the hair than formaldehyde but formaldehyde is not as good of a straightening agent as formaldehyde. *Michael A. Lyon and Timothy S. Kercher Org. Lett., 2004, 6 (26), pp DOI: /ol Publication Date (Web): November 19, 2004 Copyright 2004 American Chemical Society What is Ammonia Ammonia or azane is a compound of nitrogen and hydrogen with the formula NH 3. Ammonia is a colourless gas with a characteristic pungent smell. Ammonia, either directly or indirectly, is also a building block for the synthesis of many pharmaceutical products and is used in many commercial cleaning products. Ammonia is both caustic and hazardous in its concentrated form. It is classified as an extremely hazardous substance in the United States as defined in Section 302 of the U.S. Emergency Planning and Community Right-to-Know Act (42 U.S.C ), and is

8 subject to strict reporting requirements by facilities which produce, store, or use it in significant quantities.

9 FAQ SHEET Is New Plastic a Keratin Smoothing Treatment? No. New Plastic is a Non-Keratin smoothing systems that uses an Amino acid Complex that allows the product to provide long lasting anti-frizz effect along with straightening and shine. Keratin treatments may have challenges fighting frizz as it is a large molecule that can be drying. What are the active ingredients in New Plastic? Inca Oil, Glycolic acid, Lactic acid and other amino acids complete the all-natural formula. How long does New Plastic last? New Plastic lasts between 12 and 16 weeks depending on lifestyle and maintenance. What is the difference between the New Plastic and New Plastic Platinum? Both products have the same natural organic formula with the addition is violet pigment added the New Plastic Platinum to tone unwanted warmth in yellowing blonde hair. Can a New Plastic service be performed on hair that has already been chemically treated? Yes. New Plastic is not only safe to use over previous chemical services. In fact, New Plastic can help to replenish & nourish hair that has been previously damaged. Can I do other chemical services the same day? Yes. Depending on the service, New Plastic will be done following the other process. Example: Color services and New Plastic can be done on the same day. Color the hair prior to the New Plastic service. How many services can be performed per full order of New Plastic System? A complete system of New Plastic consists of one oz. bottle of New Plastic Regular & oz. bottle of New Plastic Platinum. Together an average of 30+ New Plastic services can be achieved. What is the average cost per New Plastic service to the salon? Based on full MSRP per bottle to the salon, at an average of 30 services per system purchase, the average cost of goods per service is $17.93.

10 What is the national price per professional smoothing service? National average service charge for a smoothing treatment is per service. The average service takes approximately 2 ½ hours to complete. The service price includes your time. New Plastic offers an incredible ROI of your time vs. COG. New Plastic can replace the traditional relaxers? Yes. Follow the instructions for virgin resistant hair to relax the tightest curls. New Plastic can also be used following a traditional sodium relaxer to add long lasting anti-frizz effect and incredible shine.