Timeless by Pevonia. Rhonda Allison

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AUGUST 2015 Adding Medical Esthetics to Your Spa Chirality for Ingredient Efficacy Ball model of retinol Salt Therapy for Skin and Body Health SI1508_Cover_fcx.

to revolutionize skin 7/9/15 9:34 AM rejuvenation.

1 AUGUST 2015 Adding Medical Esthetics to Your Spa Chirality for Ingredient Efficacy Ball model of retinol Salt Therapy for Skin and Body Health SI1508_Cover_fcx.indd 1 CHIRALITY FOR PRO-YOUTH INGREDIENT BLENDING By Rhonda Allison IN THE SKIN CARE INDUSTRY, there is a constant stream of ingredient breakthroughs with the latest and greatest products promising to revolutionize skin 7/9/15 9:34 AM rejuvenation. While there are a number of promising advancements coming down the pike, including some recently proven effective ones, the efficacy behind a formulation is not always clear. Although the potency of the formula and the formulation s brand influence a product s quality, a formulation s efficacy is also dependent on the quality of ingredients, how they are blended, the ingredients chirality (prounced kahy-ruhl-ity) and even how the product is used with other products. This article is going to focus on chirality, which surrounds us and dates back to the early 1800s, but is not often understood. In its early days, chirality began with an observation in optical activity. It quickly gained notoriety in chemistry and pharmaceuticals1 when chemists learned they could improve the efficacy of a formula by isolating specific molecules. Chirality is also seen in nature since the beginning of time. Ingredients must be chirally correct, but before we address the why, we will provide some background on the science. CHEMISTRY OF CHIRALITY The term chiral is generally used to describe a molecule or material that is not superimposable on its mirror image. Hands, for instance, are chiral. Think about shaking someone s right hand with your left hand it does not quite fit. Conversely, achiral describes a material or object identical to its mirror image. Interestingly, the 46 August 2015 Skin Inc. SI1508_Chirality_Allison_fcx.indd 46 Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited Allured Business Media. 7/9/15 11:27 AM

2 tion of s with rough ging ents. Le Mieux Timeless by Pevonia Satin Smooth Formulated with peptides, Retinol Serum contains.5% hands, each of which must be connected to another term chiral is derived from the Latin word chiro, antioxidants and hyaluronic retinol and four peptides to 2 to carbon (C) or other elements like meaning hand. Collagen Serum has high hand, i.e. carbon acid, Youthful Boost Serum helps reduce the appearance of lines hydrogen (H), oxygen (O) or nitrogen (N). In nature, most molecules areconcentrations chiral. It is a of marine collagen hydrateattached and restore skin s and wrinkles while teprenone If at leastplump, two elements to any single fundamental property of all carbon compounds, and caviar extract to combat aging, integrity. helps protect chromosones carbon atomyouthful are identical or symmetrical, these which are essential totolife all organic materials hydrate skin and smooths fine lines materials are defined as achiral. However, facilitate cellular repair. organic possess carbon atoms. Every carbon atom has four and wrinkles. INSPIRATION: ANTI-AGING INGREDIENTS A collection of products with breakthrough anti-aging ingredients. Skin Script Vitamin C/Green Tea Serum with Vitamin E, CoQ10 and Peptides is an antioxidant serum to help brighten, stimulate collagen production and hydrate for soft, glowing skin. Skin Inc. Le Mieux Timeless by Pevonia Rhonda Allison Retinol Serum contains.5% retinol and four peptides to reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles while teprenone helps protect chromosones to facilitate cellular repair. Satin Smooth BiON Research Formulated with peptides, antioxidants and hyaluronic Collagen Serum has high acid, Youthful Boost Serum helps concentrations of marine collagen plump, hydrate and restore skin s and caviar extract to combat aging, youthful integrity. hydrate skin and smooths fine lines Collagen Revival Serum helps and wrinkles. ChronoPeptide A promotes brighter tone, stimulates collagen synthesis and exfoliates skin while activating skin s natural defenses against environmental stressors during the day and cell regeneration at night. build collagen, elastin and cytokines using antioxidants, liposome vitamins, minerals, proteins and hyaluronic acid August 2015 Skin Inc. SI1508_Chirality_Allison_fcx.indd 48 Skin Script Rhonda Allison BiON Research /9/15 5:19 PM Vitamin C/Green Tea Serum with Vitamin E, CoQ10 and Peptides is an antioxidant serum to help brighten, stimulate collagen production and hydrate for soft, glowing skin. ChronoPeptide A promotes brighter tone, stimulates collagen synthesis and exfoliates skin while activating skin s natural defenses against environmental stressors during the day and cell regeneration at night. Collagen Revival Serum helps build collagen, elastin and cytokines using antioxidants, liposome vitamins, minerals, proteins and hyaluronic acid. 7/9/15 5:19 PM

if none of the elements are identical, they are chiral.

which have rotating planes of polarized light.

molecules rotating the light counterclockwise are L.

discovered how to manually sort the molecules in tartaric acid, and he

3 if none of the elements are identical, they are chiral. To delve even deeper, molecules have isomers (or enantiomers), each of which have rotating planes of polarized light. The molecules rotating this light clockwise are designated D, and molecules rotating the light counterclockwise are L. CHIRALITY IN ESTHETICS In the 1840s, French chemist Louis Pasteur discovered how to manually sort the molecules in tartaric acid, and he became the first to produce a pure sample of levotartaric acid (D-Tartaric Acid). 2 Naturally occurring tartaric acid is chiral (L-Tartaric Acid).

Nurturing Nature with Science

76 DERMASCOPE May 2011 Nurturing Nature with Science by Rhonda Allison There is no denying that Mother Nature has provided us a bounty of exquisite ingredients that have many supportive benefits for our