3 Editorial. 09 News. 10 In-Cosmetics 2018: Find new ingredients in Amsterdam 14 Sabrina Mizael, Seppic: Shiny, strong hair without silicone oils

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1 Contents COSSMA 4/ In-Cosmetics: Find new ingredients 34 What if an urban lifestyle takes its toll on the skin? 3 Editorial 9 MARKETS & COMPANIES 09 News 10 GO FUTURE: BODY CARE 10 In-Cosmetics 2018: Find new ingredients in Amsterdam 14 Sabrina Mizael, Seppic: Shiny, strong hair without silicone oils 30 Dr Thomas Förster et al. explain how keratin-bonding products mitigate keratin damage in bleaching 20 Michelle Strutton, Mintel: International launches 30 INGREDIENTS 30 Dr Thomas Förster and Dr Georg Knübel, Henkel: Repair for lightened hair? 34 Petra Schlegel, Greentech: Urban beauty 38 Formulations: Masks & more 39 Ingredients news 40 SPOTLIGHT: CARDBOARD & MORE 40 Michael Krapp, Model Kramp: Enhanced look and feel 42 MARKETING 42 In-Cosmetics 2018: Insights from industry experts 44 Sven Gehrig, Wala: How to spot true natural cosmetics 46 Star of the Month: A new ritual for masks 4 l COSSMA 4 I

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3 Contents COSSMA 4/ How to spot true natural cosmetics 52 A better understanding of the interaction of different environmental factors will be key in future 48 PACKAGING 48 Scott Carpenter, Formulated Solutions: Disrupting stagnant categories 50 Packaging news 52 PERSONALITIES & PROFILES 52 Interview with Prof Dr Jean Krutmann, Leibniz Research Institute for Environmental Medicine: What makes skin age? 56 Interview with Camilla Marcus-Dew, The Soap Co.: Ethical luxury 56 Find out about an ethical luxury brand produced by people with disabilities 59 People 60 SERVICES 08 Download List 60 BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG: Must-have congress & more 61 Events Diary 62 Suppliers Guide 65 Advertisers Index 66 Masthead Page 66 Preview Front cover picture: IUF 6 l COSSMA 4 I

4 BEL-EVEN Future-proof your skin from the effects of daily stress VISIT US AT IN-COSMETICS BOOTH C70 DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd. P.O. Box 2676, 4002 Basel Switzerland Phone: Fax: As a result of today s hyper-connected, 24/7 hectic lifestyle, research suggests that consumers may be more stressed today than ever before. The link between stress and high levels of Cortisol has been established for decades. Recent studies have now shown that sustained lifestyle stress also has distinct, visible impacts on skin. For the first time, one cosmetic ingredient has been proven to address the key skin concerns associated with long-term emotional stress. BEL-EVEN, is a new patented cosmetic ingredient that inhibits in vitro 11β-HSD1, a key enzyme in the cortisol pathway in the skin. It locally rebalances the negative impact of stress on skin and contributes to the evolving self-care trend. BEL-EVEN, visibly reduces signs of a stressful lifestyle, for fuller, more supple-looking skin with improved skin elasticity and greater barrier integrity.

5 SERVICES Free Downloads for subscribers CLICK THROUGH OUR WEB TV CLIPS: HEELA YANG Co-Founder and CEO, Sol de Janeiro talks about her prize-winning body care range CHARLOTTE LIBBY Global Beauty Analyst, Mintel provides a snapshot of the major trends set to impact global beauty COSSMA DOWNLOAD TIP IN APRIL What is the current legal situation concerning microbeads? Find out from Priyanka Malik from Freyr Solutions in her article in COSSMA. A ban of all microplastics in cosmetics and personal care products has been proposed in the EU. Make-up products and sunscreens are not affected by the proposed ban in Europe. DOWNLOADS Additional information at Your access codes for April: User name: cossma4 Password: body Microbeads are used in cosmetics to deep-cleanse the skin HELGA HERTSIG- LAVOCAH Trend Watcher, Hint Futurology THOMAS KEISER Managing Director, IKW Top downloads for April MARKETS & TRENDS: Trends in fragrances and perfumery (Essencia) explores how the latest global trends are dominating beauty packaging explains what personal care categories in Germany were particularly successful in 2017 COMPANIES: REFERENCES: FORMULATION: Kneipp Evaluating skin tolerability Natural Protein Cream Shower Honey LOG IN AND TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE! CHRISTOPH KNOKE Managing Director, IRI Information Resources talks about the main drivers in personal care online retail PROF DR C. M. KECK Prof, University of Marburg talks about future visions for anti-ageing ingredients On the COSSMA website we post lots of additional information related to the topics covered in the magazine. You will find MORE THAN 1,000 USEFUL ADDITIONAL ITEMS to extend your knowledge and understanding: more information on the ingredients and finished products that we cover, market data and statistics, supplier listings, literature references, scientific articles, product formulations and useful base informations. Take a look right now, at photo: Bigstockphoto.com 8 l COSSMA 4 I

6 The Personal Care Elements More than ever, people want personal care products that deliver healthy looking skin and hair. Health conscious consumers are looking for care that touches their heartfelt needs within the 4 Elements. Lets talk about it! Visit us at in-cosmetics 2018 in Amsterdam 17th - 19th of April, Booth E40 More information: carecreations.basf.com/incosmetics18

7 E / 2018 COSMETICS SPRAY TECHNOLOGY MARKETING GO FUTURE: BODY CARE How to protect the skin from external stressors SPOTLIGHT: CARDBOARD Enhanced look and feel Prof Dr Jean Krutmann, IUF FUTURE VISIONS DR THOMAS FÖRSTER Henkel Myths and facts on different hair bonding treatments