THE SOURCE: VOLUME ONE

Transcription

1 THE SOURCE: VOLUME ONE

2 For the shapes, Joico International Director Damien Carney looked to the shift in fashion from minimal, angular design to curved, feminine shapes with opulent details for inspiration. According to Carney, the trend has been so far-reaching that even traditionally minimalistic designers like Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein and Narciso Rodriguez recently joined the likes of Herve Leger, Max Azria and Dolce & Gabbana the masters of body-hugging, überfeminininity by using peplums, rounded collars, curvilinear color blocking and slinky metallic detailing to accentuate the feminine décolletage and waistline. Carney translated this trend to hair by pivoting from a central point on the head to cut a rounded, fitted shape. The opulent detailing came by way of disconnection in the fringe, side and/or back areas, which he then manipulated in the styling stage to transform these head-hugging shapes into three-dimensional hair sculptures. The embellishment is not over-the-top, explained Carney. It s just enough to add a little drama and excitement to the design, without sacrificing any of the modernity and wearability. For the color, Vero K-PAK Color International Artistic Director Sue Pemberton took a cue from the light-to-dark and dark-to-light radial color gradation seen on flower petals and put a dramatic new spin on the traditional, ever-popular ombré technique. This collection shows the evolution of ombré as we know it into something bolder, more unique truly head-turning, said Pemberton. The NAHA-winning colorist started each technique at a central point on the head, then pivoted from that point using the natural head shape (working with the haircut) to create shapes and shading with back-toback slice partings of various shades of Vero K-PAK Color and Vero K-PAK Chrome. It s no longer just about going from a darker base to lighter ends in shades of brown and blonde, she elaborated. From here on, it s about going from dark to light or light to dark using real, vibrant color to create depth and dimension reds, coppers, golds, purples, even shades of lavender.

3 ut This fitted shape uses graduation and line to create contrasting yet complementary curves and lines on a single head. The internal lengths remain long to add styling versatility to naturally straight, wavy or curly hair. The perimeter focuses on line to emphasize the cheekbones, jaw line and facial features, making it an excellent shape for creating the illusion of a perfectly oval face. The nape area makes use of the natural hairline growth pattern. Color enhances the design to create brilliant, high-definition shine a simply stunning look! D.C.

4 01 Note that the back of the head utilizes horizontal graduation. Section hair from the center crown area to the center nape. First parting is the shortest in length. Take a horizontal parting and cut to the desired length behind the ear area. The hair is slightly longer and slightly overdirected behind the ear area to maintain more length. The nape area should be fitted close to the head, so position head slightly downward to access nape area easily. 02 Continue working in exactly the same manner as before. Take fine, horizontal partings and follow the guideline. Hold hair at approximately 45 degrees, so each parting is elevated slightly higher than the previous. Alter the degree of elevation based on individual hair texture, hairline growth pattern and overall desired shape; the objective is to create a tight, flat, fitted nape area with a longer crown area. before 03 Continue working in the same manner as before. Note that the head should be upright so that each parting can be elevated at the correct angle. 04 Repeat the same process on the opposite side (note that model s left nape side was completed before moving to the opposite side). An alternative option is to cut the left and right sides simultaneously to ensure optimal balance.

5 05 View of cross-check. Take a diagonal parting that extends from behind the ear to the nape area, elevate it approximately 45 degrees, then cross-check and refine as needed. Remember to cross-check at frequent intervals. 06 Section side area as shown. Note that the side area will not connect to the back area (behind the ear); the side and back are disconnected. Establish a length that complements the cheekbone area and creates the appearance of an oval face shape. Cut a horizontal line between the fingers, slightly elevating and applying moderate tension to the hair; this produces slight graduation and a beveled, head-hugging shape when hair is dry. Take fine, controlled sections, working up toward the center top of the head. (Optional) Note that this side is longer than the other side to create an asymmetrical feel to the overall shape. 08 Refine the nape area and hairline. Always allow the hair to fall into its natural position, especially when creating a tight, fitted nape. Work and enhance the natural hairline growth pattern. Using the scissor-over-comb technique, cut the nape/hairline tight and close to the head. The nape should be the shortest point progressing to longer lengths at the crown area (the longest length). Use a combination of scissor-over-comb, chipping and pointing to control the hair. The objective is to create a nape that enhances the natural growth pattern. There should be no lines in the nape perimeter; the hair should fade softly into the hairline. 07 Proceed to the opposite side and repeat the process. Note that this side does not connect to the back, nape area; side and back are disconnected. (Optional) This side is cut shorter and farther back than the opposite side. Blow-dry hair smooth using the wrapping technique. 09 Refine interior lengths by lightly pointcutting into the hair to soften any edges. The shape should be fluid and seamless. 10 Refine the side area using a chipping and pointing technique; the line should be sharp and graphic. The overall silhouette should be curved and head-hugging.

6 11 Continue to the front fringe area. The hair has not been pre-sectioned in this instance, as the hair is short so it s easier to see and pre-visualize how the hair naturally falls; this is vital when cutting a fringe in this manner. Establish a fringe length that complements the individual face shape and hair texture, using the comb to stabilize the line. Note that model s left side of fringe is cut back to the temple to accent the asymmetrical side area, enhancing the cheekbones and extending the jaw line. 13 Return to the original (top) guideline and pivot from the crown area, overdirecting each parting to the first guideline (work with the crown growth pattern at all times). Note that this top left side of the hair is slightly heavier (longer) than the right side. View of haircut prior to color. After color process, hair should be further refined to ensure haircut and color flow seamlessly. 12 Connect the top area by taking a fine diagonal parting that extends from the crown area to the front hairline; this is slightly off-set and not centrally positioned. Use the length at the crown as the guideline to connect to the longer front area. Continue to take diagonal partings, elevating from the head with no overdirection. Pivot around the head; the guideline is a traveling guide. 14 Chip and point into the ends of the hair by cross-checking; this will soften the edges and should not change or alter the original design.

7 olor I pivoted from a central point around the head shape taking back-to-back diagonal slice partings. The slice partings were shifted back toward the crown, then later shifted forward to lighten the entire fringe area. Shades of terracotta varying levels of copper and beige were set against a cool, dark base color. S.P.

8 phase 1/prelightening Prelightening Formula VeroLight with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide Color Formulas FORMULA 1 Vero K-PAK Color ½ 9B + ½ 9RG with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide (Gold Foil) 01 Working off a diagonal side parting, take a diagonalvertical slice parting and apply Prelightening Formula approximately 1 /8-inch (0.31 cm) from the scalp area through the mid-shaft and ends. 02 Continue to take back-toback diagonal-vertical slice partings with Prelightening Formula, pivoting around the head shape for approximately seven foils. 03 Proceed to the opposite side, top section. Working off the side parting (toward the crown area, leaving no hair out at the crown), take a diagonal slice parting and apply Prelightening Formula. before Model has a colored, level 5 (medium golden brown) hair. FORMULA 2 Vero K-PAK Color ¾ 8RG + ¼ 8B with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide (Copper Foil) FORMULA 3 Vero K-PAK Color ¾ INV + ¼ TPB with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide (Purple Foil) BASE COLOR Vero K-PAK Chrome RB4 with Activator Alternate Vero K-PAK Color Formula BASE COLOR Vero K-PAK Color ½ 4N + ½ 6RC with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide 04 Continue to take back-to-back diagonal slice partings (pivoting each slice parting slightly toward the fringe area) into the fringe area for a total of approximately 15 foils. 05 Completed foiling procedure. Lift the hair to a level 8 (yellow/orange), then rinse. Shampoo with K-PAK Shampoo, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Cuticle Sealer for 5 minutes, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Deep-Penetrating Reconstructor for 5 minutes, then rinse and dry the hair. Proceed to Phase 2.

9 phase 2/color technique 06 Starting on the side section (working off a side parting), take a diagonal-vertical slice parting and apply Formula 3 half way down the hair and Formula 2 to the remainder (through to the ends). 07 Take a second back-to-back diagonal-vertical slice parting and apply Formula 3 half way down the hair and Formula 1 to the remainder (through to the ends). 08 Continue to apply Formula 3 from near the scalp area to approximately half way down each slice parting, alternating the end formula between Formula 2 and Formula Proceed to the top section. Working near the crown area, take a diagonal slice parting and apply Formula 3 from near the scalp area to approximately half way down the hair, and Formula 2 to the remainder (through to the ends). 12 Continue working in the same manner (pivoting slightly forward into the fringe area), applying Formula 3 at the base of each slice parting and alternating formulas 1 and 2 through the midshaft and ends. Stagger the foils where needed. Note that the last two slice partings are Formula 3 from the base of the parting all the way through to the ends. 13 Completed foiling procedure. Apply Base Color to all un-foiled hair, process for 20 minutes, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Shampoo, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Cuticle Sealer; leave in for 5 minutes, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Intense Hydrator; leave in for 5 minutes, then rinse. Dry the hair and style with the appropriate Joico styling products. 09 Place a foil directly on top of each foiled slice parting to ensure the two colors remain separated and do not bleed together (except where the two colors meet, in which case the shades should be feathered and blended so there is no definite line). 10 Continue working in the same manner as steps 6 through 9 for approximately seven back-to-back diagonal-vertical slice partings.

10 Hear what Joico s legendary International Artistic Director Damien Carney has to say about Joico s newest stylers. POWER SPRAY FAST-DRY FINISHING SPRAY MATTE GRIP TEXTURE CRÈME My favorite hairspray of all time! You can easily control the hold, taking it from level 8 to 10 with just a spray. I spray it on fine hair, allow it to dry, then brush it through to plump up everything. I also use it with heated tools, from heated curlers to flat irons, to mold the hair into any shape I want. It s completely layerable and reworkable, plus it imparts incredible shine to hair! POWER WHIP WHIPPED FOAM The first thing I reach for on a shoot and in the salon! It has a super creamy, easy to control consistency and firm yet extremely flexible hold, making it ideal for building the foundation of any style, on any hair type. I generally apply it to damp hair at the scalp, then comb through to the ends. It leaves hair manageable, incredibly shiny, full of body and volume. POWER GEL SCULPTING GEL I like using this strong, reworkable gel on hair that requires a bit more discipline. It allows me to easily manipulate the hair in any way I want from creating super smooth, controlled looks to enhancing the texture and shine of curly or wavy hair. This weightless, non-greasy texture cream gives hair a clean, reworkable grip, allowing you to enhance the natural texture of any hair type or introduce texture where there is none. You can apply it to damp or dry hair to convert any style into a fresh, modern editorial interpretation." INSTANT REFRESH DRY SHAMPOO If you want to get an extra two days out of your style, this is your product! It dries super fast without any white, cloudy residue. I love the cooling effect when it s sprayed to the scalp and hair. It works brilliantly at controlling natural oils and sebum, leaving hair looking and feeling incredibly fresh and alive. DESIGN WORKS SHAPING SPRAY A great shaping spray is vital to any artist. This spray allows me to rework and manipulate the hair into any shape, creating hairstyles that are naturallooking yet completely controlled never rigid. I like spraying the product into my hand and then working it throughout the style. Great for setting and long hairdressing. STYLE REFORM MATTE CLAY This product is excellent for giving hair a matte look, or for controlling wavy, kinky-textured hair. Apply a dime-sized amount to palms, emulsify, then apply to damp hair. Use a dryer to manipulate the shape, or leave the hair to dry naturally. I prefer to use my hands as my styling tool; the more I work the hair with this, the better it gets. TEXTURE BOOST DRY SPRAY WAX Most waxes can be heavy and deflate any volume in hair, but this is super light and non-greasy. Although you can spray this directly to hair, I prefer spraying it into my palms, then working it into the hair. Hands are the greatest tool to add texture and lightly mess up the hair! Great on all hair types, even fine hair, to take that squeaky-clean feel out and make hair easier to manage. HUMIDITY BLOCKER FINISHING SPRAY Excess humidity wrecks havoc on hair, leaving it frizzy and impossible to style. This creates an invisible barrier that locks out excessive humidity and controls frizz, so hair is softer, easier to manage, easier to style. Simply spray on dry hair and style. Great with heated tools to control all hair types all day long. SUPER SHINE GLOSSING POLISH This product works on all hair types and hair lengths, especially dull, dry, lifeless hair. I love the light, cleanfeeling, defined texture and shine. Great on colored hair, as the light reflecting qualities add clarity to all hair colors. Great on messy hair. Fab on wavy hair. Super cool on über slick, straight hair. FLEX CONTROL PLIABLE PASTE "I love using this smooth matte paste to create pliable definition and thickness in textured hair. The clean, non-tacky formula glides easily through damp or dry hair for endless styling possibilities.