HAIRCUTTING ONLINE / DTAE HEALTH AND SAFETY GA (C)

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1 Click Here To Take Test Now (Complete the Reading Material first then click on the Take Test Now Button to start the test. Test is at the bottom of this page) HAIRCUTTING ONLINE / DTAE HEALTH AND SAFETY GA (C) Introduction Haircutting is the single most important service you must master as a professional cosmetologist. Why? Because a good haircut serves as the foundation of most every other service offered in the salon. Compare it to building your dream home. You envision the finished product. You imagine the style you will use to furnish it. You then hire an architect (the stylist) to create the floor plan. Then you contract with a builder (the stylist) to construct the home. Now, if the builder establishes a weak foundation made of sand or clay, the home will not stand. A solid foundation, however, like the haircut, will serve as the sound base for the beautifully created home (or hairstyle)! In addition, every member of the family avails themselves to regular haircuts. Therefore, it is a tremendous source of revenue and repeat business. You will begin with the basics in haircutting. You will need to learn the purpose and safe use of each haircutting implement. There are some basics in the anatomy of the head that will impact your skills in haircutting as well. Also, a review of some of the basic elements of design, including form, balance, and wave pattern, will be beneficial as you design a haircut. If a quality, well-blended haircut is not achieved, you will have difficulty in completing other services such as styling or chemical texture services. So it will serve you well to master your haircutting skills before entering the salon. As with any other service, the client s desires, personality and lifestyle will all impact the techniques used and the end result of the haircut. PRINCIPLES OF HAIR DESIGN

2 You need to develop an understanding of the important steps of the haircutting process. Those principles include sectioning, combing, elevating the hair, and cutting the hair ends which all essentially represent the physics (for every action or technique used, there will be an expected and predictable result) of hair. ANATOMY OF THE SKULL Reference Points Understanding the reference points will help ensure balance within the design; allow you to recreate the haircut again and again; allow you to know where and when to change technique to make up for irregularities, such as a flat crown. Parietal Ridge

3 The Parietal Ridge is the widest area of the head, starting at the temples and ending at the bottom of the crown. It is found by placing a comb flat on the head at the sides. Where the head starts to curve away from the comb is the parietal ridge. This area is also referred to as the crest area. Occipital Bone The Occipital Bone protrudes at the base of the skull. This area is found by feeling the skull or placing a comb flat against the nape area to observe where the comb leaves the head. Apex

4 The Apex is the highest point on the top of the head. It is located by placing a comb flat on the top of the head. It will rest on that highest point. Four Corners This area can be located in two ways. (1) Place two combs flat against side and back, locating the back corner at the point where the two combs meet.

5 (2) Make two diagonal lines crossing the apex of the head, pointing directly to the front and back corners. Areas of the Head Top- Locate the top by parting the hair at the parietal ridge, continuing all the way around the head. The hair in the top area lies on the head while hair everywhere else hangs due to gravitational pull. Front- Locate the front by parting from the apex to the back of the ear. The hair that falls in front of the ear is considered to be the front (some side hair will be included here).

6 Sides- The sides include all the hair from the back of the ear forward, and below the parietal ridge. Crown- The crown is the area between the apex and the back of the parietal ridge. Nape- The nape is the area at the back of the neck and below the occipital bone. This area can be located by taking horizontal parting across the back of the head at occipital bone. Back- This area is located by parting from the apex to the back of the ear. The hair that falls naturally behind the ear (located at the same time you locate the front section). Fringe-This is also called the bang area. It is a triangular section that begins at the apex and ends at the front corners. This area can be located by placing a comb on top of the head so that the middle of the comb is balanced on the apex. The spot at which the comb leaves the head in front of the apex is where the fringe begins. When combed into a natural falling position, it falls no farther than the outer corners of eyes. LINES AND ANGLES A Line is a thin, continuous mark used as a guide. An Angle is the space between lines or surfaces that intersect at a given point. Straight Lines can be broken down into three types:

7 Horizontal lines are parallel to horizon or floor. They are level and opposite of vertical. They direct the eye from one side to the other. Horizontal lines are used in one-length and lowelevation haircuts. They build weight. Consider the following: Vertical Lines are up and down rather than left and right. They are perpendicular to the floor. These types of lines are used to create graduated or layered haircuts and used with higher elevations. They remove weight. Consider the following example:

8 Diagonal Lines are between horizontal and vertical lines. They have a slanting or sloping direction. They are used to create beveling (a technique for creating fullness by cutting the ends at a slight taper). Diagonal lines are used to create stacking and to blend long layers to short layers as the following demonstration shows:

9 Angles- Basic geometry is important to haircutting because this is how shapes are created. Angles are important in elevation and cutting line.

10 ELEVATION Elevation represents the angle or degree at which a subsection of hair is held, or elevated, from the head when cutting. It creates graduation and layers and is usually described in degrees. The more you elevate the hair, the more graduation you create. Elevation below 90 degrees builds weight. Elevation above 90 degrees removes weight or layers the hair. CUTTING LINE

11 This is the ANGLE at which the fingers are held when cutting the actual line of hair that is cut. It s also called finger angle, finger position, cutting position, cutting angle, and shears angle.

12 GUIDELINES Also called a guide, this is the section of hair that determines the length the hair will be cut. It is located at either the perimeter (outer line) or the interior of the cut. It is usually the first section cut. Stationary Guide- This guide does not move. All other sections for the stationary guide are combed to this guide and cut at the same angle or length. A blunt cut is an example:

13 Traveling Guide- Also called a movable guide, this guide moves as the haircut progresses.

14 When using this type of guide, you take a small slice of the previously cut section and move it to the next subsection where it becomes the new guide. This guide is used often in layered and graduated haircuts. ELEVATION EXAMPLES:

15 Blunt/One-Length Cut 90-Degree Elevation

16 45-Degree with 90-Degree OVER DIRECTION OVER DIRECTION occurs when hair is combed away from its natural falling position, rather than straight out from the head, toward a guide. It s used in graduated and layered haircuts. If you are working on a layered haircut and want the hair to be longer toward the front you can over-direct the sections to a stationary guide at the back of the ear as demonstrated above. Or, if you are creating a long layered haircut, with shorter layers around the face and longer layers in

17 the back, you can over-direct sections to a stationary guide at the front as emphasized in the over-direction design above. SECTION 2 Client Consultant A great haircut always begins with a great consultation. Often, when clients come to you, they are feeling that there is a lot at stake. They may be preparing for an important event, such as a party, a business event, or a wedding. They may be in the market for a new look, or wanting to change their appearance and, by extension, how they feel about themselves. Always perform a complete consultation on the client before beginning the haircut to ensure that both of you are in accord and that the haircut is suitable. A consultation is a detailed conversation between you and your client during which you find out what the client is looking for, offer suggestions and professional advice, and come to a decision, about the most suitable haircut. The purpose of the consultation is to open the lines of communication, have a clear understanding of what the client wants, ensure that the client understands what you would like to do, and together determine the end result. Together you may share thoughts about the best haircut for the client's face shape and can discuss the nature of the client's hair whether it is thick or thin, fine or course, or straight or curly. If the client has a particular look in mind, the two of you can discuss whether that look will be appropriate. It can be difficult when a client asked for something that you know will not look best for that person. This is when you will want to draw a line on skills such as gentle persuasion and positive reinforcement. A true professional can offer alternative suggestions that will work with the client's hair texture, face shape, and lifestyle. It is within the framework of the consultation that you will target those skills that led you into this people-oriented profession in the first place. The Desired Look A great place to start with the consultation is to ask the client what she wants. Sometimes, she may not be able to answer that question and may ask you for some suggestions. Either way, this is the first step in the consultation. There are several focal points to focus on here: 1. How much time is the client willing to spend on her hair every day? 2. What is her lifestyle? 3. Does she want something classic or trendy? For example, if a client with naturally curly thick hair is asking for a haircut that is primarily designed for straight hair, will she be willing to take the time to blow-dry it straight every day?

18 This is also the time you will want to analyze the hair density and texture, growth patterns, and hairline. If the client has hair that grows straight up in the nape and is requesting a short haircut that is soft and wispy at the hairline, you know the hairline will not lie down, so you may need to suggest other alternatives that will work with that kind of hairline. Face Shape Another part of consultation is analyzing the face shape. A great haircut is not only technically sound, but also it suits the client's face shape. To analyze the shape of a client's face, pull all the hair away with a clip, or wrap the hair in a towel. Look for the widest areas, the narrowest areas, and the balance of the features. A quick way to analyze a face shape is to determine if it is predominantly wide or long. Look at the features that you want to bring out, and those you might want to de-emphasize. Wide Face Hairstyle By analyzing face shape, you can begin to make decisions about the most suitable haircut, or shape, for the client. An important thing to remember is that weight and volume draw attention to an area. For example, if a client has a wide face, a hairstyle with fuller sides makes the face appear wider, whereas a narrower shape will give length to the face. On the other hand, if the client has a narrow forehead, you can add visual width by increasing volume or weight in that

19 area. In order to balance out face shapes or draw the eye away from certain areas, you need to add or remove weight or volume in other areas. Narrow Face Hairstyle Another important point to consider is the client's profile, or how she looks from the side. Turn the chair so you can see your client from the side in the mirror. Pull the hair away from the face and away from the neck. What do you see? Look for features to emphasize, such as a nice jaw line or lovely neck; or features to draw attention away from, such as a prominent or a receding chin, a double chin, or a prominent nose. The haircut you choose should flatter the client by emphasizing good features and taking attention away from features that are not as flattering. For example, if a client has a prominent chin, you will want to balance the shape by adding volume or weight somewhere else. If the client has a prominent nose, you can balance the shape from the profile by adding weight in an appropriate place.

20 Style for Client with Prominent Chin Style for Client with Prominent Nose Hair Analysis There are five characteristics that determine the behavior of the hair

21 Density Texture Wave pattern Hairlines Growth pattern Hair Density Hair density is the number of individual hair strands on one square inch of scalp. It is usually described as thin, medium, and thick. Hair density is different from hair texture in that different individuals with the same hair texture can have different densities. Some individuals may have coarse hair texture (each hair has a large diameter), but low hair density (a low number of hairs on the head). Others may have fine hair texture (each hair has small diameter), but high hair density ( a high number of hairs on the head). The average hair density is about 2,200 hairs per square inch. Hair with high density (thick or dense hair) has more hairs per inch. Hair with low density (thin hair) has fewer hairs per square inch. The average head of hair contains about 100,000 individual hair strands. The number of hairs on the head generally varies with the color of the hair. Blondes usually have the highest density, and redheads tend to have the lowest. Hair Texture Hair texture is the general quality and feel of the hair. It is based on thickness or diameter of each hair strand, usually classified as coarse, medium, and fine. A fine hair strand is much "skinnier" then that of a coarse hair strand. A client may, in fact, have a fine texture of hair with a thick density, meaning the individual hairs are fine, but there are a lot of them, or a client may have a coarse texture but a thin density, meaning the individual hairs are "fatter" but they are spaced further apart, or the client may have a coarse texture and a thick density, which translates into a substantial amount of hair. Why is density and texture important? Different hair types respond differently to the kind of cutting they receive. Some hair types need more layers; some need more weight. For example, coarse hair tends to stick out more, especially if cut to short, whereas fine hair can be cut to very short lengths and still lie flat. However, if a client has fine (texture) and thin (density) hair, cutting too short can result in an unflattering look, with the scalp showing through. Coarse hair texture has the largest diameter. It is stronger than fine hair, for the same reason that thick rope is stronger than thin rope. Coarse hair also has a stronger structure. It usually requires more processing than medium or fine hair and may also be more resistant to processing. It is usually more difficult for hair lighteners, hair colors, permanent waving solutions, and chemical hair relaxers to penetrate coarse hair. Medium hair texture is the most common and is the standard to which other hair is compared. Medium hair is considered normal and does not pose any special problems or concerns.

22 Fine hair has the smallest diameter and is more fragile, easier to process, and more susceptible to damage from chemical services than coarse or medium hair. Hair texture can be determined by feeling a single dry strand between the fingers. Take an individual strand from four different areas of the head: front hairline, the temple, the crown, and the nape. Hold the strand securely with one hand while feeling it with the thumb and forefinger of the other hand. With a little practice, you will be able to feel the difference between coarse, medium, and fine hair diameters. Wave Pattern The wave pattern, or the amount of movement in the hair strand, varies from client to client, as well as within the same head of hair. A client may have stick-straight hair (no wave), wavy hair, curly hair, extremely curly hair, or anything in between. Wave pattern is the result of genetics and racial background. Although there are exceptions, as a general rule, Asians tend to have extremely straight hair, Caucasians tend to have straight to wavy hair, and African Americans tend to have extremely curly hair. However, straight, curly, and extremely curly hair occurs in all races. This means that anyone of any race, or mixed race, can have hair with varying degrees of curliness from straight to extremely curly. It is also true that within races, individuals have hair with varying degrees of curliness. The wave pattern may also vary from strand to strand on the same person's head. It is not uncommon for an individual to have different amounts of curl in different areas of the head. Individuals with curly hair often have straighter hair in the crown and curlier hair in other areas. Several different theories seek to explain the cause of naturally curly hair, but there is no single, definite answer that explains why some hair grows straight and other hair grows curly. The most popular theory claims that the shape of the hairs cross section determines the amount of curl. This theory stated that hair with a round cross-section is straight, hair with an oval cross-section is wavy, and hair with a flat cross-section is curly. Although it is true that cross-sections of straight hair tend to be round and curlier hair tends to be more oval, modern microscopes have shown that a cross-section of hair can be almost any shape, including triangular. The shape of the cross-section does not always relate to the amount of curl. Although it is still only a theory, it is now believed that natural curl is the result of one side of the hair strand growing faster than the other side. Since the side that grows faster is slightly longer than the slower growing side, tension within the strand causes the long side to curl around the shorter side. Hair that grows uniformly on both sides does not create tension and results in straight hair. The hair's wave pattern is independent of its other properties. Hair has different diameters from fine to course, regardless of its wave pattern. All hair, straight to extremely curly and everything in between comes in different texture and densities. Imagine the same haircut cut at the same length on different types of hair; fine thin hair, thick coarse hair, and medium curly hair.

23 Hairlines and Growth Patterns Both the hairline and the growth patterns are important to examine. The hairline is the hair that grows at the outermost perimeter along the face, around the ears, and on the neck. The growth pattern is the direction in which the hair grows from the scalp, also referred to as natural falls or natural falling position. Cowlicks, whorls, and other growth patterns affect where the hair ends up once it is dry. You may need to use less tension when cutting these areas to compensate for hair being pushed up when is dries, especially in the nape, or to avoid getting a "hole" around the ear in the one-length haircut. Another crucial area is the crown (on many people there are some wild things going on up there!) Uniform layered cut on fine, thin hair.

24 Uniform layered cut on thick, coarse hair. Uniform layered cut on medium, curly hair. Posture and Body Position

25 Posture, which is how you stand, and body position, which is how you hold your body when cutting hair, are important habits to be aware of. As a working cosmetologist, you will be spending many hours on your feet. Good posture and body position will help you avoid back problems in the future and ensure better haircutting results. The correct body position will help you move more efficiently through the haircut and thereby maintain more control over the process. Position the client. Not only is your body position important, but your client's is also. Make sure your client is sitting up straight and that her legs are not crossed. Gentle reminders as the haircutting progresses may be necessary. Remember, you can move the client by turning the chair, which give you the option to either keep your body in the same place or angle the client's chair so you can see what you are doing in the mirror. Center your weight. When working, keep your body weight centered and firm. Stand with your knees slightly bent, rather than locked. Instead of bending at the waist, bend one knee if you need to lean slightly one way or the other. Stand in front of your section. When cutting hair, a general rule of thumb is to stand directly in front of the area you are cutting. By doing this, you keep your body weight centered, and you will automatically find yourself moving around the head during the haircutting service. If you wish to stay standing in the same place, or want to be able to view what you are doing in the mirror, you may choose to move the chair. Hand Positions for Different Cutting Angles As a rule, always stand in front of the area you are working on, and position your hands according to the cutting line. Cutting over your fingers. There are some situations in which you will be cutting over your fingers or on top of your knuckles. This hand position is used most often when cutting uniform or increasing layers. In this case, you will usually stand to the side of the section on which you are working. Cutting below the fingers. When cutting a one-length bob or a heavier graduated haircut, it is customary to use a horizontal cutting line. In this case, you will be cutting below your fingers, or on the inside of your knuckles. Cutting palm to palm. When cutting with a vertical or diagonal cutting line, cutting palm to palm is the best way to maintain control of the subsection, especially with regard to elevation and over direction. Cutting palm to palm means that the palms of both hands are facing each other while cutting. This is different from cutting on the top of your fingers or knuckles. Cutting palm to palm also helps to prevent strain on your back as you work. General Haircutting Tips Always take consistent and clean partings, which ensure an even amount of hair in each subsection and produce results that are more precise.

26 Take extra care when working in the crown and neckline, which sometimes have very strong growth patterns. Another danger zone is the hair that grows around the ear or hangs over the ear in a finished haircut. Allow for the protrusion of the ear by either keeping more weight in that area of cutting with minimal tension. Always use consistent tension. Tension may range from maximum to minimum. You can maintain light tension by using the wide teeth of the comb and by not "pulling" the subsection too tightly. Whatever tension you are using, it should be consistent with in the area on which you are working. Pay attention to head position. If the head is not upright, it can be hard to judge elevation and over-direction. Maintain an even amount of moisture in the hair. Dry hair responds to cutting differently than wet hair, and may give you uneven results in the finished haircut. Always work with your guideline. If you cannot see the guide your subsection is too thick. Go back and take a smaller subsection before cutting. Taking too large a subsection can result in a large mistake. By using smaller sections, if a mistake is made, it is small and therefore easier to correct. Always crosscheck the haircut; Crosscheck is parting the haircut in the opposite way, from which you cut it, to check for precision of line and shape. For example, if you use vertical partings in a haircut, crosscheck the lengths with horizontal partings. Use the mirror to see your elevation. You can also turn he client sideways so that you can see one side in the mirror while working on the opposite side. This helps create even line and maintains visual balance while working. Always check that both sides are even by standing in front of your client as well. Remember that curly hair shrinks more than straight hair, anywhere from ½ to 2 inches. Always leave the length longer than the desired end result. SECTION 3 Haircutting Tools There are several tools that are indispensable for haircutting. Understanding these different implements or tool and the different results you can get is vital to creating a great haircut. To do your best work, buy and use only superior implements from a reliable manufacturer. Use them properly, and take good care of them.

27 Haircutting shears- mainly used to cut blunt or straight lines in the hair. May also be used to slide cut, point cut and for other texturizing techniques. Thinning shears mainly used to remove bulk from the hair. Sometimes referred to as texturizing shears, tapering shears or notching shears. Many different types of thinning shears are used today, with varying amount of teeth in the blades. A general rule of thumb is that the more teeth there are the less hair is removed. Notching shears are usually designed to remove more hair, with larger teeth set farther apart. Straight razor or razor shaper- mainly used when a softer effect is desired on the ends of the hair. Razors can be used to create an entire haircut, to thin hair out, or to texturize the hair in certain areas. Razors come in different shapes and sizes, with or without guards. Clippers- mainly used when creating short tapers, short haircut, fades and flat tops. Use cutting guards at various length or in the clipper-over comb technique. Clippers can

28 be used without a guard to shave hair right to the scalp. Edgers- a smaller version of clippers mainly used to remove excess or unwanted hair at the neckline and around the ears, mostly on haircuts for men and very short haircuts for women. Wide tooth comb- mainly used to detangle hair. Rarely used when performing a haircut. Section clips- these come in a variety of shapes styles and sizes and can be made of plastic or metal. In general two types are used jaw clip and duckbill clips. Both come in large and small sizes. Barber Comb- Mainly used for close tapers in the nape and sides when using the shears over comb technique. The narrow end of the comb allows the shears to get very close to the head. Styling or cutting comb- also referred to as all-purpose comb, used for most haircutting procedures. It can be 6 to 8 inches in length and has fine teeth at one end, wider at the other.

29 Holding your Tools The way you hold your tools is important for two reasons: 1. Proper holding give you the most control and the best results when cutting hair. 2. Proper holding can help you avoid muscle strain in your hands arms neck and back. Holding the shears 1. Open your right hand (left hand if you are left -handed) and place the ring finger in the finger grip of the still blade and the little finger in the ginger brace.

30 2. Place the thumb in the finger grip (thumb grip) of the moving blade. 3. Practice opening and closing the shears. Concentrate on moving only your thumb. A great way to get the feel of this is to lay the still blade against the palm or forefinger of

31 your other, which holds it still while you move the other blade with your thumb. Holding the Shears and Comb During the haircutting process, you will be holding both the comb and the shears at the same time. You may be tempted to put the comb down while cutting, but in the end, this waste a lot of time. It is best to learn early how to hold both tools during the entire haircutting process. In general, your cutting hand (your dominant hand) does most of the work. It holds the shears, parts the hair, combs the hair, and cuts the hair. Your holding hand does just that: it holds the sections of hair and the comb while cutting. The holding hand is the means by which you maintain control while cutting. Palming the shears. Remove your thumb from the grip, leaving your ring and little fingers in the grip and finger rest. Curl your fingers in to "palm" the shears, which keeps

32 them closed while you comb or part the hair. This allows you to hold the comb and the shears at the same time. While palming the shears, hold the comb between thumb, index, and middle fingers. Transferring the comb. After you have combed a subsection into position, you will need to free up your cutting hand. Once your fingers are placed at the correct cutting position, transfer the comb by placing it between the thumb and index finger of your holding hand (the hand holding the subsection) you are now ready to cut the subsection. Holding the Razor

33 The straight razor or shaping razor is a versatile tool that can be used for an entire haircut, or for detailing and texturizing. Holding and working with a razor feels very different from holding and working with shears. The more you practice holding and palming the razor, the more comfortable you will become with this tool. There are two methods for holding the razor for cutting. 1. Method A o o Open the razor so that the handle is higher than the shank. Place the thumb on the thumb grip and the index, middle, and ring fingers on the shank. Place the little finger in the tang, underneath the handle. o When cutting a subsection, position the razor on top of the subsection, the part facing you, for maximum control.

34 2. Method B o o Open the razor until the handle and shank form a straight line. Place the thumb on the grip and wrap the fingers around the handle. o Just as you need to be able to hold the comb and the shears in your cutting hand while working, you also need to palm the razor so that you can comb and section hair during a haircut. Curl in your ring finger and little finger to palm the razor. Hold the comb between your thumb and index and middle fingers. Most accidents with razors happen while combing the hair, not when cutting the hair, because of loose grip when palming. Be sure to practice keeping a firm grip on the razor with the ring and little fingers, which keeps the open blade from sliding and cutting your hand while you comb the hair.

35 Handling the comb, both the wide and fine teeth of the comb are regularly used when cutting hair. The wide teeth are used for combing and parting hair, while the finer teeth comb section before cutting. The finer teeth provide more tension then the wider teeth, useful when cutting around the ears, when dealing with difficult hairlines, and when cutting curly hair. Plan to spend some time practicing how to properly hold and handle your cutting tools. Safety in Haircutting It is absolutely essential for you to keep in mind that when you are cutting hair, accidents can happen. You will be handling sharp tools and instruments, and you must always safeguard yourself and your client by following the proper precautions. Always palm the shears and the razor when combing or parting the hair. This keeps the points of the shears closed and pointed away from the client while combing, this prevents you from cutting yourself or the client. Palming the shears also reduces strain on the index finger and thumb while combing the hair. Do not cut past the second knuckle when cutting underneath your fingers or the inside of your hand. The skin is soft and fleshy past the second knuckle and is easy to cut. When cutting around the ears or in the case of shorter haircuts, take extra care not to accidentally cut the ear. When cutting bangs or any area close to the skin, balance the shears by placing the tip of the index finger of your left hand (right hand if you cut left-handed) on the pivot screw and the knuckles of your left hand against the skin. When working with a razor, always use a guard. Once you are comfortable with holding, palming, and cutting with the razor, you may practice without a guard, but always let your instructor be your guide. Take extra care when removing and disposing of the razor blade. Place the blade in its original sleeve or wrap it in a paper towel to protect anyone from getting cut.

36 SECTION 4 BASIC HAIRCUTS The art of haircutting consists of a variation of four basic haircuts: 1. Blunt 2. Graduated 3. Layers 4. Long Layers A clear understanding of these basic haircuts is essential before you can begin to experiment with other cuts and effects. Blunt Haircut In a blunt haircut, also known as a one-length haircut, all the hair comes to one hanging level, forming a weight line or area. The weight line is a visual line in the haircut, where the ends of the hair hang together. The blunt cut is also referred to as a zero-elevation cut or no-elevation cut because it is cut with no elevation or overdirection. It is cut with a stationary guide. The cutting line can be horizontal, diagonal, or rounded. Blunt haircuts are excellent for finer and thinner hair types, because all the hair is cut to one length, therefore making it appear thicker.

37 Here is a video of how to perform a basic blunt cut: (How to Perform a Blunt Cut: Click Here to View) Note: Once the video is complete, close the video window to proceed with your course. Graduated Haircut A graduated haircut is a graduated shape or wedge, an effect or haircut that results from cutting the hair with tension, low to medium elevation, or overdirection. The most common elevation is 45 degrees. In a graduated haircut, there is a visual buildup of weight in a given area. The ends of the hair appear to be stacked. There are many variations and effects you can create with graduation simply by adjusting the degree of elevation, the amount of overdirection, or your cutting line. This video demonstrates how to cut a Graduated Style using the Razor Technique (Click Here to View) Note: Once the video is complete, close the video window to proceed with your course. Layered Haircut

38 A layered haircut is a graduated effect achieved by cutting the hair with elevation or overdirection. The hair is cut at higher elevations, usually 90 degrees and above. Layered haircuts generally have less weight than graduated haircuts. In a graduated haircut, the ends of the hair appear closer together. In a layered haircut, the ends appear farther apart. Layers create movement and volume in the hair by releasing weight. A layered haircut can be created with a traveling guide, a stationary guide, or both. Long Layered Haircut

39 Another basic haircut is the long layered haircut. The hair is cut at a 180-degree angle. This technique gives more volume to hairstyles and can be combined with other basic haircuts. The resulting shape will have shorter layers at the top and increasingly longer layers toward the perimeter. By mastering these four basic concepts, you will be able to create any haircut you want. Every haircut is made up of one, two, or all three of these basic techniques. Add a little texturizing, slide cutting, or shears-over-comb, and you ve got advanced haircutting. Advanced haircutting is simply learning the basics and then applying them in any combination to create unlimited shapes and effects. Take the time now to practice discipline and precision in your work. This video provides a step-by-step tutorial of how to perform a Long Layered Haircut (Click Here to View) Note: Once the video is complete, close the video window to proceed with your course. General Haircutting Tips Always take consistent and clean partings, which ensure an even amount of hair in each subsection and produce more precise results. Take extra care when working in the crown and neckline, which sometimes have very strong growth patterns.

40 Another danger zone is the hair that grows around the ear or hangs over the ear in a finished haircut. Allow for the protrusion of the ear by either keeping more weight in this area or cutting with minimal tension. Always use consistent tension. Tension may range from maximum to minimum. You can maintain light tension by using the wide teeth of the comb and by not pulling the subsection too tightly. Whatever tension you are using, it should be consistent within the area on which you are working. Pay attention to head position. If the head is not upright, it can be hard to judge elevation and overdirection. Maintain an even amount of moisture in the hair. Dry hair responds to cutting differently than wet hair, and may give you uneven results in the finished haircut. Always work with your guideline. If you cannot see the guide, your subsection is too thick. Go back and take a smaller subsection before cutting. Taking too large a subsection can result in a large mistake. By using smaller sections, if a mistake is made, it is small and therefore easier to correct. Always cross-check the haircut. Crosschecking is parting the haircut in the opposite way, from which you cut it, to check for precision of line and shape. For example, if you use vertical partings in a haircut, cross-check the lengths with horizontal partings. Use the mirror to see your elevation. You can also turn the client sideways so that you can see one side in the mirror while working on the opposite side. This helps create even lines and maintains visual balance while working. Always check that both sides are even by standing in front of your client as well. Remember that curly hair shrinks more than straight hair, anywhere from 1 2 to 2 inches (1.25 to 5 cm). Always leave the length longer than the desired end result. Cross-Checking TIPS FOR CUTTING CURLY HAIR Curly hair can be a challenge to cut. Once you gain enough confidence, it can be a lot of fun to work with. However, it is essential to understand how curly hair behaves after it has been cut and dried. Although you can apply any cutting technique to curly hair, you will get very different

41 results with each one than you get when cutting straight hair. Curl patterns can range from slightly wavy to extremely curly and curly-haired clients may have fine, medium, or coarse textures, with density ranging from thin to thick. Curly hair shrinks much more after it dries than straight hair, the curlier the hair, the more it will shrink. Always keep this in mind when consulting with the client. Use minimal tension and or the wide teeth of the comb. If you use a lot of tension when cutting curly hair, you will be stretching the wet hair even more and the hair will shrink that much more when it dries. Curly hair naturally graduates itself. If the shape you want to create has strong angels, you need to elevate less than when working with straight hair. Curly hair expands more than straight hair. This means that you will generally need to leave the length longer, which ultimately helps weigh the hair down and keep the shape from shrinking or ending up too short. In general, a razor should not be used on curly hair. Doing so can weaken the cuticle and cause the hair to frizz. Choose your texturizing techniques carefully. Avoid using the razor and work mostly with point cutting and freehand notching to remove bulk and weight. Here are some of the basic haircuts and how they work on curly hair: Blunt Cut on Curly Hair

42 Graduated Cut on Curly Hair Uniform Layered Cut on Curly Hair Cutting the Fringe (Bangs) It is important to work with the natural distribution when locating the fringe area. Every head is different and you need to make sure that you cut only the hair that falls in that area. Otherwise

43 you can end up with short pieces falling where they don't belong, which will ruin the haircut. When creating bangs, you do not always cut all the hair in this area, but you never cut more unless you are blending to the sides or the top. Because much of our haircutting history comes from England, you will often hear the word fringe used instead of bangs. The two words mean essentially the same thing. The fringe area is the hair that lies between the two front corners, or approximately between the outer corners of the eyes. It is important to work with the natural distribution (where and how hair is moved over the head) when locating the fringe area. Every head is different, and you need to make sure that you cut only the hair that falls in that area. Otherwise, you can end up with short pieces falling where they don t belong, which will ruin the haircut. When creating bangs, you do not always cut all the hair in this area, but you never cut more unless you are blending to the sides or the top. Fringe Area Here are some different types of fringes:

44 Layered Fringe Design Layered Fringe Cut In the examples above, the fringe is cut using a stationary guide, elevating at 90 degrees straight up from the head form.

45 Short, Curved Fringe Design Short, Curved Fringe Cut Short bangs make a strong statement. Notice that the line is curved. It has been cut with low elevation, so that it remains more solid-looking and not too heavy.

46 Long Fringe Design Long Fringe Cut In these examples, the fringe is very long and was cut with the slide cutting technique to create a wispy effect. Wispy Fringe Design Wispy Fringe Cut Sometimes, only a few pieces are cut in the fringe area. This keeps the hair out of the face. In this case, you will not be cutting all the hair in the fringe area. You will cut only a small portion of this area and might even use a razor for that purpose.

47 Blend Fringe to Sides Blend Fringe to Layered Top Depending on the haircut, a fringe can be blended or not. If you are working with a blunt haircut and the fringe is one length, you usually will not need to blend it in. If you are working with layered or graduated shapes, you may want to blend the length of the fringe into the sides and/or the top. This video demonstrates the Twist Cutting Technique for a unique blended fringe (Click Here to View) Note: Once the video is complete, close the video window to proceed with your course. Tips for Razor cutting Razor-cut and Shears-cut Strands Razor cutting provides an entirely different kind of result from other haircutting procedures. In general, razor cuts lend a softer appearance than shear cuts. The razor is an excellent choice when working with medium to fine hair texture. The entire haircut moves and blends more. When you work with shears, you usually cut the ends of the hair blunt. When you work with the

48 razor, however, the ends are cut at an angle and the line is not blunt which produces softer shapes with more visible separation or a "feathered" effect, on the ends. With the razor, there is only one blade cutting the hair, and it is a much finer blade than the shears. With the shears, there are two blades that close on the hair, creating blunt ends. Any haircut you can create with shears can also be done with the razor. You will be able to cut horizontal, vertical, and diagonal lines. The main difference is that the guide is above your fingers, whereas with shears the guide is usually below your fingers. Razor cutting is an entirely different experience from cutting with shears. The best way to get comfortable with the razor is to practice, practice, practice. Razor Cutting Parallel to Subsection There are two commonly used methods for cutting with a razor. In the first method, the razor is kept more parallel to the subsection.

49 Razor Cutting at a 45-Degree Angle This technique is mainly used to thin the ends of the hair, and the entire length of the blade is used. The other approach is to come into the subsection with the blade at an angle (about 45 degrees). Here you are using about one-third of the blade to make small strokes as you work through the subsection. Incorrect Razor Angle

50 If the blade is not entering the hair at an angle and you attempt to push the razor through the hair, you will be putting added stress on the hair, and you risk losing control. Always remember that the blade needs to be at an angle when entering the hair. Hand Position on Vertical Section Hand Position on Horizontal Section When cutting a section, you usually move from top to bottom or side to side, depending on the section and finger angle. Here are some examples of razor techniques and hand positions on a vertical subsection and a horizontal subsection.

51 Here is a Video that demonstrates the Classic Texturizing Technique using the Feather Razor (Click Here to View Video) Note: Once the video is complete, close the video window to proceed with your course. Tips to Remember: Make sure that the hair is in good condition. Never use a razor on curly hair, coarse wiry hair, or over-processed, damaged hair. Always use a guard Always use a new blade. Working with a dull blade is painful for the client and puts added stress on the hair. Discard used blades in a puncture-proof container. Keep the hair wet. Cutting dry hair with a razor can make the hair frizz and can be painful for the client. Always work with the razor at an angle. Never force the razor through the hair. Tips for Slide Cutting Slide cutting is a method of cutting or thinning the hair in which the fingers and shears glide along the edge of the hair to remove length. It is useful for removing length, blending shorter lengths to longer lengths and texturizing. Slide cutting is a perfect way to layer very long hair and keep weight at the perimeter. Rather than opening and closing their shears, you keep them partially open as you slide along the edge of the section. This technique should only be performed on wet hair with razor sharp shears.

52 Visualize your cutting line first. Slide Cutting There are two methods of holding the subsection when slide cutting. It is important to visualize the line you wish to cut before you begin. In one method, you hold the subsection with tension beyond the cutting line. In the other method, you place your shears on top of your knuckles, and then use both hands to move simultaneously out to the length. SHEARS-OVER-COMB TIPS Shears-over-comb (also called scissors-over-comb) is a barbering technique that has crossed over into cosmetology. In this technique, you hold the hair in place with the comb while you use the tips of the shears to remove the lengths. Shears-over-comb is used to create very short tapers and allows you to cut from an extremely short length to longer lengths. In most cases, you start at the hairline and work your way up to the longer lengths.

53 Shears-over-comb Technique It is best to use this technique on dry hair, because that way you can see exactly how much hair you are cutting and will therefore maintain control. Lift (elevate) the hair away from the head using the comb, and allow the comb to act as your guide. Do not hold the hair between your fingers. Let the shears and comb move simultaneously up the head. It is crucial that one blade stays still and remains parallel to the spine of the comb as you move the thumb blade to close the shears. Strive for continual motion. Stopping the motion may cause steps or visible weight lines in the hair. Practice moving the comb and shears simultaneously, keeping the bottom blade still and opening and closing the shears with your thumb. These are the basic steps when working with the shears-over-comb technique: 1. Stand directly in front of the section on which you are working. The area you are cutting should be at eye level. 2. Place the comb, teeth first, into the hairline, and turn the comb so that the teeth are angled away from the head. Comb Position

54 3. With the still blade parallel to the spine of the comb, begin moving the comb up the head, continually opening and closing the thumb blade smoothly and quickly. 4. Angle the comb farther away from the head as you reach the area you are blending to avoid cutting into the length (weight). Reaching the Weight Line Tips to Remember: Work with small areas at a time (no wider than the blade). Always start at the hairline and work up toward the length. You may even run the comb again through a previously cut section, on your way up to the new area. Cross-check by working across the area diagonally. Use a barber comb to cut areas very close (usually on sideburns and hairlines where the hair is cut close to the scalp). Switch to a regular cutting comb as you work up into the longer lengths. Texturizing Texturizing is a commonly used technique within the professional hair industry. Today s haircuts generally require some form of texturizing. Texturizing is the process of removing excess bulk without shortening the length. It also means to cut for effect within the hair length, causing wispy or spiky effects. The term texturize should not be confused with hair texture, which is simply the diameter of the hair strand itself.

55 Texturizing techniques can be used to add volume, remove volume, make hair move, and blend one area into another. It can also be used to compensate for different densities that exist within the same head of hair. Texturizing can be done with cutting shears, thinning shears, or a razor. There are many texturizing techniques, and a number of them will be explained in this section. Be sure to practice all the techniques, so that you learn the different effects they create and draw on them as the need arises with your clients. TEXTURIZING WITH SHEARS Point Cutting Point Cutting Point cutting is a technique performed on the ends of the hair using the tips, or points, of the shears. This can be done on wet or dry hair. It is very easy to do on dry hair because the hair stands up and away from your fingers. Hold the hair 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) from the ends. Turn your wrist so that the tips of the shears are pointing into the ends, with your palm facing away from you. Open and close the shears by moving your thumb as you work across the section. As you close the shears, move them away from your fingers to avoid cutting yourself. Move them back in toward your fingers as you open them.

56 Point Cutting with Steeper Shears Angle In essence, you are cutting points in the hair. A more vertical shears angle removes less hair. Point Cutting with Flatter Shears Angle The more diagonal the shears angle, the more hair is taken away, and the chunkier the effect. Notching

57 Notching Notching is another version of point cutting. Notching is more aggressive and creates a chunkier effect. Notching is done toward the ends. Hold the section about 3 inches (7.5 cm) from the ends. Place the tips of your shears about 2 inches (5 cm) from the ends. Close your shears as you quickly move them out toward the ends. If you are working on very thick hair, you can repeat the motion every 1/8 inch (.3 cm). On medium to fine hair, place your notches further apart. This technique can be done on wet or dry hair. Free-hand Notching Free-hand notching also uses the tips of the shears. Do not slide the shears, but simply snip out pieces of hair at random intervals. This technique is generally used throughout the interior of the section, rather than at the ends. It works particularly well on curly hair, where it is not desirable to add too many layers but, rather, where you would choose to release the curl and remove some density. Slithering

58 Ideal Open Position Slithering or effilating is the process of thinning the hair to graduated lengths with shears. In this technique, the hair strand is cut by a sliding movement of the shears, with the blades kept partially opened. Slithering reduces volume and creates movement. Slicing Slicing with Shears Slicing is a technique that removes bulk and adds movement through the lengths of the hair. When slicing, never completely close the shears. Use only the portion of the blades near the pivot. This prevents removing large pieces of hair.

59 shears Slicing through a subsection with texturizing This technique can be performed within a subsection or just on the surface of the hair, with haircutting or texturizing shears. To slice an elevated subsection, work with either wet or dry hair. When slicing on the surface of the haircut, it is best to work on dry hair, because you can see exactly how much hair you are taking away. Carving

60 Carving is a version of slicing that creates a visual separation in the hair. It works best on short hair (1-1 2 to 3 inches, or 3.75 to 7.5 cm, in length). This technique is done by placing the still blade into the hair and resting it on the scalp. Move the shears through the hair, gently opening and partially closing the shears as you move, thus carving out areas. The more horizontal your shears, the more hair you remove. The more vertical, the less hair you remove. By carving the ends, you can add texture and separation to the perimeter of a haircut by holding the ends of a small strand of hair between your thumb and index fingers, and carving on the surface of that strand. Begin carving about 3 inches from the ends toward your fingers. Removing bulk (thinning). Thinning shears were originally created for the purpose of thinning out hair and blending. Many clients are afraid of the word thinning. A more modern choice of words would be removing bulk or removing weight. When using the thinning shears for this purpose, it is best to follow the same sectioning as in the original haircut. Comb the subsection out from the head and cut it with the thinning shears, at least 4 to 5 inches (10 to 12.5 cm) from the scalp. On longer lengths, you may need to repeat the process again as you move out toward the ends. On coarse hair textures, stay farther away from the scalp, as sometimes the shorter hairs will poke through the haircut. On blunt haircuts, avoid thinning the top surfaces, as you may see visible lines where the hair is

61 cut with the thinning shears. When working on curly hair, it is best to use the free-hand notching technique rather than thinning shears. Removing weight from the ends. You can also use thinning shears to remove bulk from the ends. This process works well on many hair textures. It can be used on both thin and thick hair, and it helps taper the perimeter of both graduated and blunt haircuts. Elevating each subsection out from the head, place the thinning shears into the hair at and angle and close the shears a few times as you work out toward the ends. Thinning shears-over-comb. Practicing the shears-over-comb technique with the thinning shears is a particularly effective way of mastering this technique. This technique, which is useful for blending weight lines on finer textures of hair, can be used as well on thick and coarse haircuts that are cut very short, especially in the sides and the nape. It helps the hair to lie closer to the head. Other thinning shears techniques. Any texturizing technique that can be performed with regular haircutting shears may also be performed with the thinning shears. When working on very fine or thin hair, try using the thinning shears for carving, point cutting, and slicing. This keeps you from over texturizing and removing too much weight. TEXTURIZING WITH THE RAZOR Removing weight. You can use the razor to thin out the ends of the hair. On damp hair, hold the section out from the head, with your fingers at the ends. Place the razor flat to the hair, 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) away from your fingers. Gently stroke the razor, removing a thin sheet of hair from the area. This tapers the ends of the section, and can

62 be used on any area of the haircut where this effect is desired. Free-hand slicing. This technique can be used throughout the section or at the ends, and should be done on wet hair. When working in the midshaft of the subsection, comb the hair out from the head, and hold it with your fingers close to the ends. With the tip of the razor, slice out pieces of hair. The more vertical the movement, the less hair you remove. The more horizontal the movement, the more hair you remove. This technique releases weight from the subsection, allowing it to move more. Slicing the Midshaft

63 You can also use free-hand slicing on the ends of the hair to produce a softer perimeter or to create separation throughout the shape. In this case, hold the ends of a small piece of hair in your fingertips. Beginning about 3 inches from your fingers, slice down one side of the piece toward your fingers. Slicing the Perimeter Razor-over-comb. In this technique, the comb and the razor are used on the surface of the hair. Using the razor on the surface softens weight lines and causes the area to lie closer to the head. This technique is used mainly on shorter haircuts. There are two approaches. The first is to place the comb into the hair, with the teeth pointing down, a few inches above the area on which you will be working. Make small, gentle strokes on the surface of the hair with the razor. Move the comb down as you move the razor down. This is a great technique for tapering in the nape area or softening weight lines. The second way, referred to as razor rotation, is very similar to razor over-comb. The difference is that you make small circular motions. Begin by combing the hair in the

64 direction you will be moving in. Place the razor on the surface of the hair. Then allow the comb to follow the razor, combing through the area just cut, and then comb back into the section or onto a new section. This helps soften the texture of the area and gives direction to the haircut. SECTION 5 SANITATION AND DISINFECTION GUIDELINES 1. Wash your hands with soap and warm water before and after each service. 2. Before blow-drying your client, sweep up cut hair and dispose of properly. 3. Drape the client properly for the shampoo and the haircutting procedures. 4. Always sanitize combs, brushes, shears, clips, and other implements after each haircut by washing thoroughly and placing in a disinfectant solution or by another method approved by your regulatory agency. 5. Replace the blade in your razor prior to each new client. Discard used blades in a puncture-proof container. 6. Keep your shears in good working order by lubricating with a few drops of oil and wiping with a chamois (or dry cloth). 7. Sanitize your workstation after each haircutting service. Haircutting Definitions Angle- the space between two lines or surfaces that intersect at a given point; in haircutting, the hair is held away from the head to create an angle of elevation Apex -Highest point on the top of the head Beveling- tapering the ends of the hair Blunt Haircut- haircut in which all the hair comes to one hanging level, forming a weight line or area; it is cut with no elevation or over direction; also referred to as an on-length, zero elevation or no elevation cut. Carving- haircutting technique done by placing the still blade into the hair and resting it on the scalp, then moving the shears through the hair while opening and partially closing the shears. Clipper-over-comb- haircutting technique similar to shears-over-comb, except that the clippers move sideways across the comb rather than bottom to top. Cross-checking- parting the haircut in the opposite way from which you cut it to check for precision of line and shape.

65 Crown- area of the head between the apex and the back of the parietal ridge. Cutting line- the angle at which the fingers are held when cutting and ultimately the line that is cut; also known as finger angle, finger position, cutting position, cutting angle and shears angle. Distribution- where and how hair is moved over the head; the direction hair is combed in relation to its base parting. Elevation- angle or degree at which a subsection of hair is held, or elevated, from the head when cutting; also referred to as projection. Four Corners- points on the head that signal a change in the shape of the head, from flat to round or vice versa. Free-hand notching - notching technique in which pieces of hair are snipped out at random intervals. Fringe- triangular section that begins at the apex and ends at the front corners. Graduated haircut- graduated shape or wedge; and effect or haircut that results from cutting the hair with tension, low to medium elevation or over direction; has a stacked area around the exterior. Growth Pattern- the direction in which the hair grows from the scalp; also referred to as natural fall or natural falling position. Guideline- section of hair, located at either the perimeter or the interior of the cut that determines the length the hair will be cut; also referred to as a guide; usually the first section that is cut to create a shape. Hairline- the hair that grows at the outermost perimeter along the face, around the ears and on the neck. Head form- the shape of the head or skull; greatly affects the way the hair falls and behaves; also called head shape. Interior guideline- guideline that is inside the haircut rather than on the perimeter. Layered haircut/ layers- graduated effect achieved by cutting the hair with elevation or over direction; the hair is cut at higher elevations. Usually 90 degrees or above, which removes weight. Line- thin continuous mark; in haircutting may be the guideline, cutting line, or perimeter; can be straight or curved, horizontal, vertical, or diagonal.

66 Long Layered Haircut- haircut in which the hair is cut at a 180 degree angle; the resulting shape has shorter layers at the top and increasingly longer layers toward the perimeter. Nape- back part of the neck; the hair below the occipital bone. Notching- version of point cutting in which the tips of the shears are moved toward the hair ends rather than into them; creates a chunkier effect. Occipital bone- hindmost bone of the skull below the parietal bones; protrudes at the base of the skull. Over direction-combing a section away from its natural falling position, rather than straight out from the head, toward a guideline; used to create increasing lengths in the interior or perimeter. Palm to Palm- cutting position in which the palms of both hands are facing each other. Parietal ridge- the widest area of the head, usually starting at the temples and ending at the bottom of the crown. Part/Parting- a line dividing the hair to the scalp that separates one section of hair from another or creates subsections; generally created with a comb. Perimeter- the outer line of a hairstyle, the silhouette line; sometimes referred to as the exterior. Point cutting- haircutting technique in which the tips of the shears are used to cut "points" into the ends of the hair. Razor over comb- texturizing technique in which the comb and the razor are used on the surface of the hair. Razor rotation- texturizing technique similar to razor- over- comb done with small circular motions. Reference points- points on the head that mark where the surface of the head changes or the behavior of the hair changes, such as ears, jaw line, occipital bone, apex, etc.; used to establish design lines that are proportionate. Section- to divide the hair by parting into uniform working areas for control; sections are created when two partings are made parallel to one another. Shears-over-Comb- haircutting techniques in which the hair is held in place with the comb while the tips of the shears are used to remove the lengths. Slicing- technique that removes bulk and adds movement through the lengths of the hair; the shears are not completely closed and only the portion of the blades near the pivot is used.

67 Slide cutting- method of cutting or thinning the hair in which the fingers and shears glide along the edge of the hair to remove length. Slithering-process of thinning the hair to graduated lengths with shears; cutting the hair strand by a sliding movement of the shears, while keeping the blades partially opened; also called affiliating. Stationary guideline- guideline that does not move. Subsections- smaller sections within a larger section of hair, used to maintain control of the hair while cutting. Tapers- haircuts in which there is an even blend from very short at the hairline to longer length as you move up the head; "to taper" is to narrow progressively at one end. Tensions- amount of pressure applied when combing and holding a section, created by stretching or pulling the section. Texturizing- removing excess bulk without shortening the length; changing the appearance or behavior of hair, through specific haircutting techniques, using shears, thinning shears, or a razor. Traveling guideline- guideline that moves as the haircutting progresses, used often when creating layers or graduation; also referred to as moving or movable guidelines. Uniform layers- effect produced by cutting the hair at the same length consistently, using a 90 degree elevation. Weight line- a visual "line" in the haircut where the ends of the hair hang together; the line of maximum length within the weight area: heaviest perimeter area of a 0(one length) or 45- degree (graduated) cut. SUMMARY We have established how important it is to develop strong haircutting skills because a good haircut serves as the foundation for numerous other services. The more familiar you become with basic haircutting and shaping techniques and with haircutting implements, the more solid that foundation will be. We ve also discussed the relevance of understanding the anatomy of the head, elevations, angles, and degrees. We ve stressed the importance of the requisite client consultation before every haircut service and how understanding the client s desires, needs, and lifestyle will impact the choices made. In addition, the five characteristics of hair (density, texture, wave pattern, hairlines, and growth pattern) play an important role in your ability to create a quality haircut. As with any service, we ve established the importance of proper sanitation and disinfection procedures for haircutting services. There is much more to learning how to cut hair.

68 Haircutting is a skill requiring imagination and many hours of practice. You must remember that once something is cut off, you cannot put it back you must wait until it grows. Therefore, it is important that you being slowly by working on mannequins to build your confidence. Practice holding the various cutting implement until you are comfortable. Begin observing people and pictures and try to visualize in your mind s eye what type of elevation was used to create the style. Drills and timed repetitions will be essential to your skills development. Take pride in your work and shoot for perfection. Once your techniques and skills have achieved a high level of quality, you will begin to work on your speed. As you continue in your training, you will learn the importance of taking into consideration the client s head and face shape and features as well as his/her lifestyle and personal choices when selecting a haircut. Bibliography References: Stock photography photos, dreamstime.com: Milady s Standard Cosmetology by Catherine M. Frangie, Arlene Alpert, Margrit Attenburg, and Diane Carol Bailey, Page 258 (2008) How to Use Texturizing Shears by Emily Retherford, ehow Contributor (2012): Wikipedia the Free Encyclopedia, Hairstyle by Victoria Sherrow (2001): Wikipedia the Free Encyclopedia, Razor Cutting by Montagna William (2008): Hairlosshelp.com How Does Hair Grow (April 2012): Medium Length Layered Hair Styles, Latest Hairstyles Magazine (2012): SECTION 6

69 Curriculum Health and Safety Cosmetology Continuing Education The following health and safety courses were developed by the Georgia Department of Technical and Adult Education and have been approved by the Georgia State Board of Cosmetology to meet the requirements for 3 Continuing education units in health and safety. All DTAE technical colleges are approved to offer the continuing education curriculum and private providers must register to offer health and safety courses for continuing education training through the Georgia State Board of Cosmetology. All continuing education providers must follow this curriculum in order to meet law requirements, as establish by the Georgia General Assembly. Cosmetology Curriculum Update Bloodborne Pathogens Copyright October 2002 By Georgia Department of Technical and Adult Education. All rights reserved. No part of this manual may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without written permission from Georgia Department of Technical and Adult Education. Published December 2002 (C121002)

70 Table of Contents Introduction..1 Objectives....1 What Are Bloodborne Pathogens?...2 Hepatitis B Virus (HBV).3 Human Immunodeficiency Virus (HIV) 3 Signs and Symptoms...4 Signs and Symptoms of (HVB) 4 Signs and Symptoms of (HIV)..4 Transmission.5 Transmission Mediums..5 Transmission Routes..6 Risk Factors and Behavior..7 Personal Protective Equipment.8 Decontamination & Sterilization 11 Common Questions..12 Discuss with the class 12 HBV 12 HIV..13 Precautions 14 Summary.17

71 Introduction A bloodborne pathogen is a specific cause of disease, such as a virus or bacteria. Bloodborne means carried by or in blood and certain other body fluids. AIDS, hepatitis B and C, malaria, and syphillis are examples of diseases that are caused by bloodborne pathogens. Objectives Upon completion of this course, trainees will be able to: Discuss bloodborne pathogens, Identify two bloodborne pathogens of concern in the workplace, Explain how bloodborne pathogens are transmitted, List four high risk factors, and Discuss the precautions to be used in the workplace. What Are Bloodborne Pathogens? -1.- Two types of pathogens of concern in the workplace are: 1. Hepatitis B Virus (HBV) 2. Human Immunodeficiency Virus (HIV) Hepatitis B is much more contagious than HIV.

72 -2.- Hepatitis B Virus (HBV) The HB Virus infects the liver: it s more common than HIV and is a greater risk on the job. Many HBV infected people have no problems or symptoms. Some, however, do develop serious or fatal problems such as cirrhosis, liver cancer, or chronic liver disease. There is a vaccine for HBV which is dispensed in three doses. Any employee at risk should take the vaccine.

73 Human Immunodeficiency Virus (HIV) HIV causes AIDS; it attacks the body s immune system, reducing its ability to fight disease. To protect yourself against HIV and HBV, avoid direct exposure to infectious blood or body fluids - the prime transmitters of HBV and HIV. -3-

74 Signs and Symptoms Signs and Symptoms of (HVB) The symptoms of HVB are much like a mild "flu". Initially there is a sense of fatigue, possible stomach pain, loss of appetite, and even nausea. As the disease continues to develop, jaundice (a distinct yellowing of the skin and eyes), and a darkened urine will often occur. However, people who are infected with HBV will often show no symptoms for some time. After exposure it can take 1-9 months before symptoms become noticeable. Loss of appetite and stomach pain, for example, commonly appear within 1-3 months, but can occur as soon as 2 weeks or as long as 6-9 months after infection. Signs and Symptoms of (HIV) The symptoms of HIV can vary, but often include weakness, fever, sore throat, nausea, headaches, diarrhea, a white coating on the tongue, weight loss, and swollen lymph glands. If you believe you have been exposed to HBV or HIV, especially if you have experienced any of the signs or symptoms of these diseases, you should consult your physician or doctor as soon as possible. Transmission -4- Transmission Mediums Body Fluids that can transmit infection are: Blood Semen Vaginal secretions Cerebrospinal fluid (brain and spinal fluid) Synovial fluid (lubricating fluid of joints and tendons) Pleural fluid (fluid around the lungs) Pericardial fluid (fluid around the heart) Peritoneal fluid (fluid in the abdomen)

75 Amniotic fluid (fluid that surrounds an embryo) Saliva (in dental procedures) Transmission Routes HIV and hepatitis are transmitted only in the following ways: Unprotected sexual contact involving the transfer of body fluids such as blood, semen and vaginal secretions. 2. Direct contact with infected blood through needle-sharing, transfusions and needle sticks. 3. Infected mothers can transmit the virus to their babies while in the womb or in breast milk. You can t catch HIV through casual contact, such as touching, hugging, being coughed on or sneezed on or working around someone who has AIDS. Family members and health care workers who are constantly around patients with AIDS do not catch AIDS when they use proper precautions. -6- Risk Factors and Behaviors In light of what we know about the way the HBV and HIV virus are transmitted, risk of exposure to either virus is increased for people who: Have unprotected sex or multiple partners. Have unprotected sex with an IV drug user. Have shared needles while using drugs. Have occupational exposure to the blood or body fluids of others. Between 1978 and the spring of 1985, received blood or blood products in transfusion. Between 1978 and the spring of 1985, received an organ transplant. Received artificial insemination from an untested donor.

76 Between 1978 and the spring of 1985, received treatment for a clotting disorder. Have been exposed to blood or body fluids of a person known to have AIDS or be HIVpositive. Are immigrants from high risk areas (southeast Asia, Africa, Southern and Central Europe): Have tattoos. Are family of infected persons. -7- Personal Protective Equipment "Universal Precautions" is the name used to describe a prevention strategy in which all blood and potentially infectious materials are treated as if they are, in fact, infectious, regardless of the perceived status of the source individual. In other words, whether or not you think the blood/body fluid is infected with bloodborne pathogens, you treat it as if it is. This approach is used in all situations where exposure to blood or potentially infectious materials is possible. This also means that certain engineering and work practice controls shall always be utilized in situations where exposure may occur. Probably the first thing to do in any situation where you may be exposed to bloodborne pathogens is to ensure you are wearing the appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE). For example, you may have noticed that emergency medical personnel, doctors, nurses, dentists, dental assistants, and other health care professionals always wear latex or protective gloves. This is a simple precaution they take in order to prevent blood or potentially infectious body fluids from coming in contact with their skin. To protect yourself, it is essential to have a barrier between you and the potentially infectious material. Rules to Follow: Always wear personal protective equipment in exposure situations. Remove PPE that is torn or punctured, or has lost its ability to function as a barrier to bloodborne pathogens. Replace PPE that is torn or punctured. Remove PPE before leaving the work area. If you work in an area with routine exposure to blood or potentially infectious materials, the necessary PPE should be readily accessible.

77 Contaminated gloves, clothing, PPE, or other materials should be placed in appropriately labeled bags or containers until it is disposed of, decontaminated, or laundered. It is important to find out where these bags or containers are located in your area before beginning work. -8- This approach is used in all situations where exposure to blood or potentially infectious materials is possible. This also means that certain engineering and work practice controls shall always be utilized in situations where exposure may occur. Gloves Gloves should be made of latex, nitril, rubber, or other water impervious materials. If glove material is thin or flimsy, double gloving can provide an additional layer of protection. Also, if you know you have cuts or sores on your hands, you should cover these with a bandage or similar protection as an additional precaution before donning your gloves. You should always inspect your gloves for tears or punctures before putting them on. If a glove is damaged, don't use it! When taking contaminated gloves off, do so carefully. Make sure you don't touch the outside of the gloves with any bare skin, and be sure to dispose of them in a proper container so that no one else will come contact with them either. -9- Goggles

78 Anytime there is a risk of splashing or vaporization of contaminated fluids, goggles and/or other eye protection should be used to protect your eyes. Again, bloodborne pathogens can be transmitted through the thin membranes of the eyes so it is important to protect them. Splashing could occur while cleaning up a spill, during laboratory procedures, or while providing first aid or medical assistance. Face Shields Face shields may be worn in addition to goggles to provide additional face protection. A face shield will protect against splashes to the nose and mouth. Aprons Aprons may be worn to protect your clothing and to keep blood or other contaminated fluids from soaking through to your skin. Normal clothing that becomes contaminated with blood should be removed as soon as possible because fluids can seep through the cloth to come into contact with skin. Contaminated laundry should be handled as little as possible, and it should be placed in an appropriately labeled bag or container until it is decontaminated, disposed of, or laundered Decontamination & Sterilization All surfaces, tools, equipment and other objects that come in contact with blood or potentially infectious materials must be decontaminated and sterilized as soon as possible. Equipment and tools must be cleaned and decontaminated before servicing or being put back into use. Decontamination should be accomplished by using: A solution of 5.25% sodium hypochlorite (household bleach/clorox) diluted between 1:10 and 1:100 with water. The standard recommendation is to use at least a quarter cup of

79 bleach per one gallon of water. Lysol or some other EPA-registered tuberculocidal disinfectant. Check the label of all disinfectants to make sure they meet this requirement. If you are cleaning up a spill of blood, you can carefully cover the spill with paper towels or rags, and leave it for at least 10 minutes. This will help ensure that any bloodborne pathogens are killed before you actually begin cleaning or wiping the material up. By covering the spill with paper towels or rags, you decrease the chances of causing a splash when you pour the bleach on it. If you are decontaminating equipment or other objects, you should leave the disinfectant in place for at least 10 minutes before continuing the cleaning process. Of course, any materials you use to clean up a spill of blood or potentially infectious materials must be decontaminated immediately, as well. This would include mops, sponges, reusable gloves, buckets, pails, etc Common Questions HBV What symptoms do I have if I am suffering from hepatitis B infection? Many people with HBV do not have any symptoms and feel perfectly well. Occasionally, the hepatitis B infection may become active and make the patient feel ill with nausea, have a loss of appetite, and become jaundiced. What kind of outlook can I expect if I have a hepatitis B infection? Many patients with the hepatitis B infection can expect to lead a full and normal life. It is most important to regard yourself as a normal individual who happens to be infected with hepatitis B. However, it is important to take precautions not to spread the disease and to get medical checkups regularly. Can I get hepatitis from the vaccine? No. The hepatitis vaccine is a safe and highly purified vaccine. It does not contain any blood products or living or dead viruses. What should be done if the second or third vaccine dose is delayed?

80 If the doses are delayed for less than one year, the remaining doses can be resumed to complete the vaccination without the need to restart the vaccination series. If the lapsed doses are more than one year apart, extra doses or restarting of the series may be required for high risk individuals. HIV What will the AIDS test tell me? A positive result indicates the presence of antibodies to HIV, which has been found in people with AIDS Does a negative test mean that I am not infected? Unfortunately, no. Although the test is reliable, there is a window - some say it s six to twelve weeks, some say longer-when you could be developing the antibody, but the test will still be negative. That s why you need to be retested at six to twelve weeks and again in 6 months. If you test negative, but still carry HIV, it is still possible to transmit the virus. Counseling will be provided when you receive your test results whether they are negative or positive. What happens if I test HIV positive? Currently, there is no known therapy to reverse antibody status. If an employee tests HIV positive, we recommend ongoing medical monitoring and possible anti-retroviral (contains RNA for protein productions) drugs. What is the prognosis? Research indicates that HIV - positive individuals will eventually develop AIDS. Currently, there is no treatment for AIDS and it is generally believed to be eventually fatal. As discussed previously, there is a vaccine for hepatitis B which is available to all employees at risk. What HIV symptoms should I watch for? Almost half of the people who contract HIV experience a flu-like illness six to twelve weeks after exposure. Employees who experience an exposure incident should report any illness that feels like the flu or mononucleosis, especially if it is accompanied by fever, rash, or swollen glands.

81 Will my employer know the results of my test? No. The health care professional will give the results of your tests to you only. All records, including test results, relating to an exposure incident are Strictly Confidential. Precautions -13- The following precautions should be taken by anyone who has had an exposure incident so that others are not exposed. Inform sexual or needle-sharing partners so they can be tested for the virus. Inform physicians and other health care givers so they can protect themselves. Don't give any blood, tissue, organs, or semen. Remove the organ donor designation from your driver s license. Hold off on getting pregnant until your health care provider says it is okay. If you are pregnant, get counseling. Don t breast-feed. Be careful not to expose others to your blood or bodily fluids. Don t share personal items such as toothbrushes, razors, etc. Use a bleach solution of 1:10, 70% isopropyl alcohol or other EPA-approved germicide to clean up any spills of blood. Refrain from sexual activity, or at least take the following precautions: - Limit the number of partners - Use latex condoms from start to finish, even if your partner is HIV-positive Job situations which may result in exposure include: Job duties that bring you into contact with needles or other sharp objects such as glass that might be contaminated with infected blood. Providing emergency first-aid assistance to co-workers.

82 It is important that you use universal precautions to prevent becoming infected by contaminated blood. Universal precautions means that all blood and body fluids are considered potentially infectious When first aid measures are needed, make sure that you adhere to the following: 1. Mouth-to-Mouth Breathing - The safest course of action is to use a breathing mask whenever you are called on to give mouth-to-mouth resuscitation. 2. Controlling Bleeding - To help the victim without infecting yourself (or the victim), wear rubber gloves. While chance of infection on the job are small, why take unnecessary risks with your life? Following the necessary safety precautions is the best way to minimize risks. -16-

83 Summary Bloodborne pathogens are a very real risk in the workplace. However, protective measures are in place for employees at risk. To avoid infection of bloodborne pathogens, it is very important to follow all precautions. Knowing how infection occurs is the first step in preventing the spread of disease. Certain factors and behaviors put employees at risk. Avoid these behaviors as much as you can. Education combined with practicing safe behaviors can save your life. Georgia Department of Technical and Adult Education Decontamination and Infection Control Copyright October 2002 by Georgia Department of Technical and Adult Education. All rights reserved. No part of this manual may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without written permission from Georgia Department of Table of Contents Technical and Adult Education. Published December 2002 (C121002)

84 Decontamination and Infection Control 1 Introduction.1 Objectives 2 Professional Salon Environment.3 Safety Precautions 6 Material Safety Data Sheet (M.S.D.S.).7 Organizing an M.S.D.S. Notebook 10 Decontamination and Infection Control Introduction Infection and disease control is one of the most important aspects of being a professional salon operator or owner. Federal and state laws govern what must be done by operators and owners to ensure the safety of the public and that no germs are allowed to spread uncontrolled. This unit will provide trainees with the necessary elements to help control dangerous diseasecausing germs. By following some very important basic procedures and by providing a clean salon it will be easy to provide your clients with the very best professional care without the fear of your clients becoming infected by a disease agent. It is important to understand that the removal of all disease-causing germs in a salon will be almost impossible, but the control of dangerous levels is the key to providing a safe salon. Objectives Upon completion of this class, trainees will be able to discuss the importance of: Decontamination Sanitation, disinfecting, and sterilization

85 Use of disinfectant products Using disinfectants in the salon Salon professionalism. Professional Salon Environment Let s take a close look and see what can be done to identify and control the professional salon environment. Things like tables, chairs, walls, and floors are very likely contaminated with a number of germs that may be very serious disease-causing germs. There may be millions of germs present that do not affect humans when contact is made. However, one case of an infected client can send your career and the reputation of your salon downward. By understanding contamination and knowing the proper techniques of decontamination, shop operators and owners can avoid ugly lawsuits and having the business they worked hard to build destroyed. It is important to understand the more people that enter the salon environment, the greater the chance that new germs will be introduced and reintroduced as a result of the human contact factor. Control over where and what people do before they get to the salon is impossible to monitor, so contamination concerns must be continuous and ongoing. Your responsibility as a professional to eliminate and control contamination is vital. Decontamination of surfaces and tools used in the salon will allow for a safe and professional experience for the client. Contamination can occur in many forms and on the surface of equipment, implements, and furnishings may not show signs of contamination. Soiled towels, combs, brushes, and even clippers can and more than likely are sources for contamination if not disinfected or sterilized properly. Sanitation and disinfection are required in the salon to provide a safe environment for clients, coworkers, employees and oneself. Sanitation is the removal of large amounts of living organisms from a surface. By sanitizing tools and other items used in the salon, bacteria and germs are eliminated or lowered to safer levels. Popular forms of sanitation are described below. The Heat steam of an autoclave has been used for many years and has proven to be one of the most dependable forms of sanitizing. Hospital-grade disinfectants are used to sanitize surfaces and tools as well. Quaternary Ammonium Compounds (quats) are available in liquid or tablet form. Implements should be immersed for 20 minutes or longer to ensure elimination of germs and bacteria. Glutaraldehyde is a germicidal used to disinfect and sterilize implements that cannot be heat sterilized. Ethyl Alcohol is used as a disinfectant. In order to remain effective, the strength of ethyl alcohol should be no less than 70%.

86 Bleach (sodium hypochlorite), commonly known as house hold bleach, has for many years been utilized as a disinfectant at killing germs. As a result of more advanced techniques now being used, bleach is not the preferred method for decontamination. It is, however, very effective on floors, sinks, and general cleaning around the salon. Ultrasonic Cleaners are used in some salons but must be used with a disinfectant. The advantage of this device is that it may reach tiny crevices that may otherwise be omitted in the cleaning and sanitizing process. Disinfection is also a part of operating a safe salon. Disinfection is used when objects can be damaged due to exposure to extreme heat. Disinfection kills microorganisms with the exception of spores. It is important to understand that disinfectants should never be used on clients. Note: It is important that directions are followed when using disinfectants. When directions are not followed, money can be wasted. Furthermore, by not following directions properly, the product that is to be disinfected may not be if a solution is too weak. It is also important to understand that the disinfectant solution always remain at an effective level. In saying this, always remember to wash all products to be disinfected with soap and water. If you attempt to disinfect soiled implements, the solution may become too weak to do an effective job. Safety Precautions Remember that disinfectants are industrial strength cleaners that are powerful and can be harmful if used improperly. Never use a disinfectant to clean your hands. This is an unsafe practice and can cause skin disease. You should wear protective equipment such as gloves and safety goggles while mixing chemicals for disinfection control. Use soaking baskets and tongs to insert and remove equipment in disinfectant solutions. Always remember to clearly mark containers that are used for storing disinfectants. Look at the following definition. Sanitation is the process of reducing the levels of pathogens found on a surface. While the surface may be clean, there are still many microorganisms residing on the surface. Material Safety Data Sheet (M.S.D.S.)

87 Every chemical used in the United States must have an M.S.D.S. report developed by the manufacturer that developed the chemical. The purpose of the M.S.D.S. is to report the product name, active ingredients, directions for use, and safety instructions in case of accidents involving the chemical. The following is a break down of the sections on an M.S.D.S. report. Product information of the chemical is listed at the very start of the report. The Manufacturer s/distributor emergency contact number(s) along with product identity, product code number, product use, and hazard classification. Section 1 is a listing of the hazardous ingredients found in the product along with specific ingredient codes. Section 2 is the characteristics both physical and chemical of the product in general. These characteristics include but are not limited to physical state (liquid or solid), odor appearances like smell and color of product. Section 3 is fire and explosion hazard information on the product. Usually the fire/flame point will be listed and the level of danger to which this product will burn. Also, the extinguishing procedures are listed here in case there is a need to control a chemical fire as a result of this product. Section 4 is the reactivity data section. This section lists chemical(s), which this product must not come in contact with to ensure the product remains stable. Section 5 lists the health hazards and if special precautions need to be followed. This section discusses or lists exposure concerns and first aid procedures to follow in case of an accident. Section 6 lists control and protective measures that will need to be followed to ensure safe use of the product or chemical. Section 7 are control measures and precautions on the product. Safe handling is necessary to ensure that accidents are minimized. Waste disposal is also listed in this area. Section 8 is the regulatory information for the product. A listing of active ingredients that must be reported and a record maintained on file (M.S.D.S). Below is an example of an M.S.D.S. (M.S.DS). Material Safety Data Sheet

88 The Clorox Company 7200 Johnson Drive Pleasanton, California Tel. (510) Product: CLOROX GERMICIDAL BLEACH Description: CLEAR, LIGHT YELLOW LIQUID WITH CHLORINE ODOR Other Designations Manufacturer Emergency Telephone No EPA Registration No Sodium hypochlorite solution Liquid chlorine bleach Clorox Liquid Bleach The Clorox Company 1221 Broadway Oakland, CA Rocky Mountain Poison Center (800) For Transportation Emergencies Chemtrec II Health Hazard Data (800) III Hazardous Ingredients Causes substantial but temporary eye injury. May Irritate skin. May cause nausea and vomiting if ingested. Exposure to vapor or mist may Irritate nose, throat and lungs. The following medical conditions may be aggravated by exposure to high concentrations of vapor or mist; heart conditions or chronic respiratory problems such as asthma, chronic bronchitle or, obstructive lung disease. Under normal consumer use conditions the likelihood of any adverse health effects are low. Ingredients Concentration Worker Exposure Limit Sodium hypochlorite 5.25% not established CAS # FIRST AID: EYE CONTACT: Immediately flush eyes with plenty of water. If irritation persists, see a doctor. SKIN CONTACT: Remove contaminated clothing. Wash area with water. INGESTION: Drink a glassful of water and call a physician. INHALATION: If breathing problems develop remove to fresh air. None of the ingredients in this product are on the IARC, NTP or OSHA carcinogen list. Occasional clinical reports suggest a low potential for sensitization upon exaggerated exposure to sodium hypochlorite if skin damage (e.g. irritation) occurs during exposure. Routine clinical tests conducted on intact skin with Clorox Liquid Bleach found no sensitization in the test subjects. IV Special Protection and Precautions V Transportation and Regulatory Data Hygienic Practices: Wear safety glasses. With repeated or prolonged use wear gloves. U.S. DOT Hazard Class: Not restricted U.S. DOT Proper Shipping Name: Hypochlorite solution with not more than 7% available chlorine. Not Restricted per 49CFR (c)(12)(lv)

89 Engineering Controls: Use general ventilation to minimize exposure to vapor or mist. Section 313 (Title lll Superfund Amendment and Reauthorization Act): Work Practices: Avoid eye and skin contact and inhalation of vapor or mist. As a consumer product, this product is exempt from supplier notification requirements under Section 313 Title lll of the Superfund Amendment and Reauthorization Act of 1988 (reference 40 CFR Part 372). Keep out of reach of children. VI Spill or Leak Procedures VII Reactivity Data Small Spills (<5 gallons) (1) Absorb, containerize, and landfill in accordance with local regulations. Stable under normal use and storage conditions. Strong oxidizing agent. Reacts with other household chemicals such as toilet bowl cleaners, rust removers, vinegar, acids or ammonia containing products to produce hazardous gases, such as chlorine and other chlorinated species. Prolonged contact with metal may cause pitting or discoloration. (2) Wash down residual to sanitary sewer.* Large Spills (>5 gallons) (1) Absorb, containerize, and landfill in accordance with local regulations; wash down residual to sanitary sewer.* -OR - (2) Pump material to waste drum(s) and dispose in accordance with local regulations; wash down residual to sanitary sewer.* * Contact the sanitary treatment facility in advance to assure ability to process washed-down material. Vlll Fire and Explosion Data IX Physical Data Not flammable or explosive. In a fire, cool containers to prevent rupture and release of sodium chlorate. Boiling point *F, 100* C Specific Gravity (H 2 O) Solubility in Water complete ph

90 Organizing an M.S.D.S. Notebook Suggestions for setting up an M.S.D.S. notebook include: Using a three-ring binder that pages can easily be placed in or removed from. Highlighting specific areas to identify key aspects of the M.S.D.S. report within the notebook. (See example) Alphabetizing the M.S.D.S. reports so that locating the sheets will be fast. Clearly mark the notebook on all sides to indicate it as the M.S.D.S. notebook. Use a white or bright colored notebook so it can be easily identified as the M.S.D.S. Notebook. When ordering products for the first time, request the company send you a product sheet (M.S.D.S.) page to add to your notebook. Remove any M.S.D.S. reports when the product is no longer used in the salon. Establish an emergency contact sheet that will be the very first page in your M.S.D.S. notebook. List the local emergency numbers for your salon area. Add the Centers for Disease Control and the National Poison Control Center to the emergency contact page. Have a sheet that states your salon operators have read and understand the concept of the M.S.D.S. notebook and have them sign a form stating the information has been read. Keep a copy of this form in their employment file. Make sure the M.S.D.S. Notebook is located in a place where all employees have access to it and they are aware of its location. Georgia Department of Technical and Adult Education

91 Skin, Diseases, Disorders Copyright October 2002 by Georgia Department of Technical and Adult Education. All rights reserved. No part of this manual may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without written permission from Georgia Department of Technical and Adult Education. Published December 2002 (C121002) Table of Contents Skin, Diseases, Disorders...1 Introduction... 1 Objectives... 2 Anatomy and Histology of the Skin Nerves of the Skin... 5 Glands of the Skin... 5 Nourishment of the Skin... 6 Functions of the Skin... 6 Terminology... 7 Diseases and Disorders...10

92 Skin Conditions /Descriptions Skin, Diseases, Disorders Introduction The flexible, waterproof, tough protective covering known as the skin is the largest organ in the body both by weight and surface area. Skin accounts for approximately 16% of the body s weight. Healthy skin has a fine texture that is slightly moist, soft, and flexible. Varying in thickness, the skin is thinnest on the eyelids and thickest on the palms and soles. A callous can be caused by continuous friction on any part of the skin. The skin has appendages that include the hair, sweat and oil glands, and the nails. Composed of the substance known as keratin, this protein gives the skin its protective ability. The skin is slightly acidic in ph, which enables good immunity responses to intruding organisms. Normally the skin separates the internal environment from the external. However skin diseases and infections can invade that barrier. For this reason, a thorough understanding of the histology of the skin and its diseases and disorders is needed for a better position to give clients professional advice. Objectives Upon completion of this course, trainees will be able to: Explain the structure and the composition of the skin. Identify the functions of the skin. Describe terms relating to skin disorders. Recognize which skin diseases/disorders may be dealt with in the salon and which should be referred to a physician. Identify online dermatology resources.

93 Anatomy and Histology of the Skin The two major divisions of the skin are the dermis and the epidermis. The outermost layer of the skin is the epidermis that is composed of sheets of dead cells that serve as the major waterproof barrier to the environment. The epidermis is the visible layer of skin. This layer contains numerous nerve endings, but no blood vessels. The human epidermis is renewed every days. The epidermis consists of many layers. The stratum corneum is the outer layer that is often called the horny layer. Cells are continually being shed and replaced. This layer of skin for the most part is dead - it is composed of cells that are almost pure protein. The stratum lucidum consists of translucent cells through which light can penetrate. The stratum granulosum, known as the granular layer, consists of cells that resemble granules. These cells are transforming into a harder form of protein. The stratum mucosum is also known as the basal cell layer. Basal cells are continuously being reproduced. It is the deepest layer of the epidermis. This layer also contains melanocytes that produce the coloring matter known as melanin and determines skin color. Melanocytes also react to ultraviolet rays to darken the skin for added protection. The middle layer, the dermis, provides a tough, flexible foundation for the epidermis. In the dermis, body temperature is regulated by sweat glands and blood vessels. It also contains arector pilli muscles, papillae, and hair follicles. Nerve endings send sensations of pain, itching, touch, and temperature to the brain. The skin is moisturized by oil glands that produce sebum.

94 The dermis consists of two layers. The papillary layer connects the dermis to the epidermis. Tactile corpuscles are nerve fiber endings that contain looped capillaries. Tactile corpuscles are responsible for the sense of touch. The papillary layer also contains some of the melanin. The reticular layer is the deepest layer of the dermis. It contains fat cells, blood vessels, lymph vessels, oil glands, sweat glands, hair follicles, and arrector pilli muscles. The reticular layer supplies the skin with oxygen and nutrients. Subcutaneous tissue is the fatty layer found below the dermis. It is also called the adipose or the subcutis tissue. It varies in thickness according to age, sex, and general health of the individual. The subcutaneous tissue contains fats for energy, gives smoothness and contour to the body, and acts as a protective cushion for the outer skin. Arteries and lymphatics maintain circulation to the body. Nerves of the Skin Sensory nerves are receptors and send messages to the brain causing reactions to heat, cold, touch, pressure, and pain. Motor nerve fibers, attached to the hair follicles, are distributed to the arrector pilli muscles which may cause goose flesh when you are frightened or cold. The secretory nerve fibers regulate the excretion of perspiration from the sweat glands and regulate the flow of sebum to the surface of the skin. Glands of the Skin There are two types of duct glands contained in the skin that pull out minerals from the blood to create new substances. The suderiferous glands are the sweat glands and the sebaceous glands are the oil glands. Sweat glands excrete perspiration. This secretion is odorless when excreted, but in a short period of time produces an offensive odor due to the bacteria on the skin s surface feeding on the fats of its secretion. Perspiration is controlled by the nervous system. About 1-2 pints of liquid containing salts are excreted daily through the sweat pores in the skin. The sweat glands consist of a coiled base or fundus and a tube-like duct that ends at the skin surface forming the pores. Sweat glands are more numerous on the palms, soles, forehead, and armpits. Body temperature is regulated by the sweat glands that also aid in the elimination of waste. Oil glands secrete sebum through little sacs whose ducts open in to the hair follicles. These glands are found in all parts of the body with the exception of the palms and soles. The oily substance produced by the oil glands is called sebum. Sebum lubricates the skin and preserves the pliability of the hair. When the duct becomes clogged with hardened sebum, a blackhead is formed.

95 Nourishment of the Skin Blood and lymph circulate through the skin providing nourishment essential for growth and repair of the skin, hair, and nails. Functions of the Skin The major functions of the skin are sensation, heat regulation, absorption, protection, excretion, and secretion. The functions of the skin can easily be remembered using the acronym: SHAPES S - ensation - response to heat, cold, pressure, and pain H - eat regulation - maintains body temperature of 98.6 A - bsorption - substances can enter the body through the skin and affect it to a minor degree P - rotection - from bacterial invasion E - xcretion - sweat glands excrete perspiration S - ecretion - sebum is secreted by the sebaceous glands Terminology Dermatology Dermatologist study of the skin, its nature, functions, and treatment a medical skin specialist Disease a pathological condition of the body, organ, or mind making it incapable of carrying on normal functions

96 Disorder abnormal condition usually not contagious Immunity freedom from or resistance to disease Integumentary system one of the 10 systems of the body; pertains to the skin, its appendages and functions Pathology study of disease Etiology study of the causes of diseases Trichology study of hair Diagnosis recognition of a disease by its symptoms Prognosis foretelling of the probable course of a disease Objective symptom visible symptom Subjective symptom symptom that can be felt by client, but not by observation Acute rapid onset with severe symptoms of short duration

97 Chronic long duration, usually mild, but often recurring Infectious invasion of body tissue by bacteria that cause disease Contagious communicable; by contact Occupational due to certain kinds of employment Seasonal influenced by weather Parasitic caused by vegetable or animal parasites Pathogenic produced by disease causing bacteria Systemic due to over or under functioning of the internal glands Venereal disease acquired by sexual contact Epidemic emergence of a disease that affects a large number of people simultaneously Allergy reaction due to extreme sensitivity to normally harmless substances Inflammation skin disorder characterized by redness, pain, edema and heat Rhytidectomy face lift Blepharoplasty eyelid surgery

98 Chemical peel chemical solution applied to skin areas causing a mild, controlled burn of the skin Rhinoplasty plastic surgery of the nose Mentoplasty chin surgery Dermabrasion sandblasting irregularities of the skin Injectable fillers tiny injections of collagen to soften wrinkles Retin-A prescription cream used in the treatment of acne Diseases and Disorders In a salon, you will come in contact with diseases and disorders of the skin and its appendages: the hair and nails. Your license requires you to be responsible for the recognition of potentially infections diseases. Some disorders can be treated in cooperation with and under the supervision of a physician. Skin Conditions /Descriptions WARNING: NEVER TRY TO DIAGNOSE A DISEASE; ALWAYS REFER TO A PHYSICIAN. NOTE: COLOR CHANGES, A CRACK ON THE SKIN, A TYPE OF THICKENING, OR ANY DISCOLORATION, RANGING FROM SHADES OF RED TO BROWN AND PURPLE TO ALMOST BLACK, MAY BE SIGNS OF DANGER AND SHOULD BE EXAMINED BY A DERMATOLOGIST.

99 CAUTION: DO NOT TREAT OR REMOVE HAIR FROM MOLES. Condition/Disease/Disorder Description Pigmented Lesions Lentigo Chloasma Naevus Leucoderma Vitiligo Albinism Stain small, yellow to brown spots moth patches, liver spots = increased deposits of pigment birthmark (portwine or strawberry) small-large malformation of skin due to pigmentation or dilated capillaries abnormal light patches due to congenital defective pigmentations acquired condition of leucoderma-may affect skin or hair congenital absence of melanin pigment abnormal, brown, skin patches having a circular & irregular shape Disorders of the Sebaceous Glands Condition/Disease/Disorder Description Comedones blackheads, a worm-like mass of keratinized cells& hardened sebum Milia

100 whiteheads, an accumulation of dead, keratinized cells and sebaceous matter trapped beneath the skin Acne Simplex chronic inflammatory disorder usually related to hormonal changes & overactive sebaceous glands Acne Vulgaris acne-pimples Acne Rosacea chronic inflammatory congestion of the cheeks& nose Seborrhea/Seborrhea Oleosa = Oily Dandruff overactive sebaceous glands-often the basis of acne Steatoma wen or sebaceous cyst (subcutaneous tumor)ranges in size from a pea to an orange Asteatosis dry, scaly skin characterized by absolute or partial deficiency of sebum Furuncle

101 boil-a subcutaneous abscess that fills with pus Cysts sac-like, elevated (usually round) area, contains liquid or semi-liquid substancewhen a follicle ruptures deep within the dermis & irritating oil& dead cells seep into the surrounding tissues often cause acne pits Pimples follicle filled with oil, dead cells, & bacteria inflammation causes white blood cells to rush to fight bacteria creating a pus Disorders of the Sudoriferous Glands Condition/Disease/Disorder Description Bromidrosis osmidrosis=foul-smelling perspiration Anhidrosis lack of perspiration

102 Hyperhidrosis excessive perspiration Miliaria Rubra prickly heat-eruptions of small red vesicles accompanied by burning & itching-caused by excessive heat Hypertrophies Condition/Disease/Disorder Keratoma Description callus-superficial, round, thickening of the epidermis caused by friction (inward growth is called a corn) Mole a small, brown spot-believed to be inherited maybe flat or deeply seatedpale tan-brown or bluish black Verruca wart, a viral infection of the epidermisbenign Skin Tag bead-like fibrous tissue that stands away from the flat surface-often a dark color

103 Polyp growth that extends from the surface or may also grow with the body Inflammations Condition/Disease/Disorder Description Eczema dry or moist lesions accompanied by itching, burning, & various other unpleasant sensations usually redblistered, & oozing Psoriasis rarely on the face, lesions are round, dry patches covered with coarse, silvery scales-if irritated, bleeding points occurmay be spread to larger area-not contagious Herpes Simplex/ fever blisters/cold sores-single group of vesicles Herpes Zoster = Shingles on a red swollen base Allergy Related Dermatitis

104 Condition/Disease/Disorder Description Dermatitis allergy to ingredients in cosmetics, etc. Venenata protection is the prevention-gloves, etc. Dermatitis Medicamentosa dermatitis that occurs after an injection of a substance Urticaria hives-inflammation caused by an allergy to specific drugs/foods Primary Skin Lesions Condition/Disease/Disorder Description Macule small, discolored spot or patch on the skin's surface, neither raised nor sunkenex: freckles Papule small elevated pimple containing no fluid, but may have pus

105 note: yellow or white fatty papules around the eyes indicate an elevated cholesterol level-refer to a physician (xanthelasma). Wheal itchy, swollen lesion that lasts only a few hours- ex: mosquito bite Tubercle solid lump larger than a papule-projects above the skin or lies with-sized from pea to hickory nut Tumor external swelling-varies in size, shape & color Vesicle Blister containing a watery fluid-larger than a vesicle Pustule Elevation with inflamed base, containing pus Secondary Skin Lesions

106 Condition/Disease/Disorder Description Scale accumulation of epidermal flakes, dry or greasy- ex: abnormal dandruff Crust accumulation of serum & pus-mixed with epidermal material-ex: scab Excoriation abrasion produced by scratching or scraping-ex: raw surface after injury Fissure crack in the skin penetrating into the dermis Ulcer open lesion on skin or mucous membrane, accompanied by pus & loss of skin depth Acne Scars Condition/Disease/Disorder Description

107 Ice Pick Scar large, visible, open pores that look as if the skin has been jabbed with an ice pick-follicle always looks open-caused by deep pimple or cyst Acne Pit Scar slightly sunken or depressed appearance-caused by pimples/cysts that have destroyed the skin & formed scar tissue Acne Raised Scar lumpy mass of raised tissue on the surface of the skin-caused where cysts have clumped together Contagious Disorders Tinea Tinea Capitis - Ringworm of Scalp Tinea Sycosis - Barber's Itch Tinea Favosa - Honeycomb Ringworm Tinea Unguium - Ringworm of Nails Athlete's Foot - Ringworm of Feet ringworm, due to fungi (plant or vegetable parasites) -small reddened patch of little blisters that spread outward and heal in the middle with scaling

108 CAUTION! NEVER ATTEMPT TO DIAGNOSE BUMPS, LESIONS, ULCERATIONS, OR DISCOLORATIONS AS SKIN CANCER, BUT YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO RECOGNIZE THE CHARACTERISTICS OF SERIOUS SKIN DISORDERS AND SUGGEST THAT THE CLIENT SEE A PHYSICIAN OR DERMATOLOGIST. Extremely Serious Disorders-Skin Cancers Basal Cell Carcinoma least malignant-most common skin cancer characterized by light or pearly nodules & visible blood vessels Squamous Cell Carcinoma scaly, red papules-blood vessels are not visible more serious than basal cell Malignant Melanoma most serious-characterized by dark brown, black, or discolored patches on the skin Tumor abnormal growth of swollen tissue

109 Nail Diseases/Disorders Onychophagy nail biting Onychogryposis over curvature of the nail-claw like Pterygium sticky overgrowth of the cuticle Eggshell Nail extremely thin nail Leuconychia white spots under the nail plate Paronychia bacterial inflammation of tissue (perionychium) around the nail Tinea Corporis ringworm of the hand

110 Tinea Pedia ringworm of the foot Agnail Hangnail Onychia an inflammation somewhere in the nail Onychocyanosis blue nail (usually caused by poor circulation) Hematoma Nail bruised nail (usually caused by a hammer or slammed door) Tinea Unguium onychomycosis-ringworm of the nail Onychorrexis split or brittle nails with a series of lengthwise ridges Beau's Lines ridges/corrugations/furrows

111 Onychatrophia atrophy or wasting away of the nail Onychocryptosis ingrown nail Onychauxis overgrowth of the nail plate Onychosis any nail disease Onychophosis accumulation of horny layers of epidermis under the nail Hair Disease/Disorders Pityriasis Capitis Simplex dry dandruff Pityriasis Capitis

112 Steatoids Seborrhea Oleosa = Oily Dandruff greasy dandruff Trichoptilosis split hair ends Trichorrehexis Nodosa Knotted Tinea Favosa honeycomb ringworm Tinea Capitis ringworm of the scalp Tinea Sycosis barber's itch Androgenetic Alopecia common hereditary hair loss Alopecia Adnata loss of hair shortly after birth Alopecia Areata

113 hair loss in patches Alopecia Follicularis hair loss caused by inflammation of hair follicles Alopecia Prematura hair loss early in life Alopecia Senilis hair loss from old age Alopecia Totalis hair loss from entire scalp Alopecia Universalis hair loss from entire body Traction/Traumatic Alopecia Postpartum Alopecia patchy hair loss sometimes due to repetitive traction on the hair by pulling or twisting temporary hair loss at the conclusion

114 of pregnancy Telogen Effluven hair loss during the telogen phase of the hair growth cycle Canities gray hair Pediculosis Capitis headlice Monilithrix beaded hair Fragilitis Crinium brittle hair Hirsuities/Hypertrichosis superfluous hair, excessive Scabies

115 contagious disease caused by the itch mite Impetigo/Infantigo highly contagious bacterial infection, usually staphylococcal Discoid Lupus Erythematosus (DLE) chronic autoimmune disorder, causes red often scarring plaques, hair loss, & internal effects Keloids forms when excess collagen forms at the site of a healing scar-over healing Asteatosis excessive dry skin Websites: Online Dermatology Resources

116 American Society of Dermatologic Surgery American Academy of Dermatology Skin Conditions /Descriptions WARNING: NEVER TRY TO DIAGNOSE A DISEASE; ALWAYS REFER TO A PHYSICIAN.

117 NOTE: COLOR CHANGES, A CRACK ON THE SKIN, A TYPE OF THICKENING, OR ANY DISCOLORATION, RANGING FROM SHADES OF RED TO BROWN AND PURPLE TO ALMOST BLACK, MAY BE SIGNS OF DANGER AND SHOULD BE EXAMINED BY A DERMATOLOGIST. CAUTION: DO NOT TREAT OR REMOVE HAIR FROM MOLES. Pigmented Lesions Condition/ Disease/Disorder Description small, yellow to brown spots Lentigo

118 Naevus birthmark (port wine or strawberry) small-large malformation of skin due to pigmentation or dilated capillaries abnormal light patches due to congenital defective pigmentations Leucoderma acquired condition of leucoderma-may affect skin or hair Vitiligo

119 Albinism congenital absence of melanin pigment Stain abnormal, brown, skin patches having a circular & irregular shape Disorders of the Sebaceous Glands Condition/ Disease/Disorder Description blackheads, a worm-like mass of keratinized cells & hardened sebum Comedones Milia whiteheads, an accumulation of dead, keratinized cells and sebaceous matter trapped beneath the skin

120 Acne Simplex chronic inflammatory disorder usually related to hormonal changes & overactive sebaceous glands Acne Vulgaris acne-pimples chronic inflammatory congestion of the cheeks & nose Acne Rosacea

121 Seborrhea/Seborrhea Oleosa = Oily Dandruff overactive sebaceous glands-often the basis of acne wen or sebaceous cyst (subcutaneous tumor) ranges in size from a pea to an orange Steatoma Asteatosis dry, scaly skin characterized by absolute or partial deficiency of sebum

122 boil-a subcutaneous abscess that fills with pus Furuncle sac-like, elevated (usually round) area, contains liquid or semi-liquid substance-when a follicle ruptures deep within the dermis & irritating oil Cysts & dead cells seep into the surrounding tissues often cause acne pits Pimples follicle filled with oil, dead cells, & bacteria inflammation causes white blood cells to rush to fight bacteria creating pus

123 Disorders of the Sudoriferous Glands Condition/ Disease/Disorder Description Bromidrosis osmidrosis=foul-smelling perspiration Anhidrosis lack of perspiration Hyperhidrosis excessive perspiration Miliaria Rubra prickly heat-eruptions of small red vesicles accompanied by burning & itching-caused by excessive heat

124 Hypertrophies Condition/ Disease/Disorder Description Keratoma callus-superficial, round, thickening of the epidermis caused by friction (inward growth is called a corn) Mole a small, brown spot-believed to be inherited may be flat or deeply seatedpale tan-brown or bluish black Verruca wart, a viral infection of the epidermisbenign

125 Skin Tag bead-like fibrous tissue that stands away from the flat surface-often a dark color Polyp growth that extends from the surface or may also grow with the body Inflammations Condition/ Disease/Disorder Description Eczema dry or moist lesions accompanied by itching, burning, & various other unpleasant sensations usually redblistered, & oozing

126 Psoriasis rarely on the face, lesions are round, dry patches covered with coarse, silvery scales-if irritated, bleeding points occurmay be spread to larger area-not contagious Herpes Simplex/ Herpes Zoster = Shingles fever blisters/cold sores-single group of vesicles on a red swollen base Herpes Simplex Herpes Zoster Allergy Related Dermatitis Condition/ Disease/Disorder Description

127 allergy to ingredients in cosmetics, etc. protection is the prevention-gloves, etc. Dermatitis Venenata Dermatitis dermatitis that occurs after an injection of a substance Medicamentosa Urticaria hives-inflammation caused by an allergy to specific drugs/foods Primary Skin Lesions

128 Condition/ Disease/Disorder Description Macule small, discolored spot or patch on the skin's surface, neither raised nor sunken-ex: freckles Papule small elevated pimple containing no fluid, but may have pus note: yellow or white fatty papules around the eyes indicate an elevated cholesterol levelrefer to a physician (xanthelasma). Wheal itchy, swollen lesion that lasts only a few hours ex: mosquito bite

129 Tubercle solid lump larger than a papule-projects above the skin or lies with-sized from pea to hickory nut Tumor external swelling-varies in size, shape & color blister with clear fluid-lie within or just beneath the epidermis-ex: poison ivy Vesicle blister containing a watery fluid-larger than a vesicle

130 Bulla Pustule elevation with inflamed base, containing pus Secondary Skin Lesions Condition/ Disease/Disorder Description Scale accumulation of epidermal flakes, dry or greasy ex: abnormal dandruff Crust accumulation of serum & pus-mixed with epidermal material-ex: scab Excoriation abrasion produced by scratching or scraping-ex: raw surface after injury

131 Fissure crack in the skin penetrating into the dermis Ulcer open lesion on skin or mucous membrane, accompanied by pus & loss of skin depth Acne Scars Condition/ Disease/Disorder Description Ice Pick Scar large, visible, open pores that look as if the skin has been jabbed with an ice pick-follicle always looks open-caused by deep pimple or cyst

132 Acne Pit Scar slightly sunken or depressed appearance-caused by pimples/cysts that have destroyed the skin & formed scar tissue lumpy mass of raised tissue on the surface of the skin-caused where cysts have clumped together Acne Raised Scar

133 Contagious Disorders Tinea Tinea Capitis - Ringworm of Scalp Tinea Sycosis - Barber's Itch Tinea Favosa - Honeycomb Ringworm Tinea Unguium - Ringworm of Nails Athlete's Foot - Ringworm of Feet ringworm, due to fungi (plant or vegetable parasites) -small reddened patch of little blisters that spread outward and heal in the middle with scaling

134 CAUTION! NEVER ATTEMPT TO DIAGNOSE BUMPS, LESIONS, ULCERATIONS, OR DISCOLORATIONS AS SKIN CANCER, BUT YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO RECOGNIZE THE CHARACTERISTICS OF SERIOUS SKIN DISORDERS AND SUGGEST THAT THE CLIENT SEE A PHYSICIAN OR DERMATOLOGIST. Extremely Serious Disorders-Skin Cancers Basal Cell Carcinoma least malignant-most common skin cancer characterized by light or pearly nodules & visible blood vessels scaly, red papules-blood vessels are not visible more serious than basal cell Squamous Cell Carcinoma

135 most serious-characterized by dark brown, black, or discolored patches on the skin Malignant Melanoma Nail Diseases/Disorders Onychophagy nail biting over curvature of the nail-claw like Onychogryposis

136 Pterygium sticky overgrowth of the cuticle Eggshell Nail extremely thin nail white spots under the nail plate Leuconychia Paronychia bacterial inflammation of tissue (perionychium) around the nail Tinea Corporis ringworm of the hand

137 Tinea Pedia ringworm of the foot Onychocyanosis blue nail (usually caused by poor circulation) Hematoma Nail bruised nail (usually caused by a hammer or slammed door)

138 onychomycosis-ringworm of the nail Tinea Unguium Onychorrexis split or brittle nails with a series of lengthwise ridges ridges/corrugations/furrows Beau's Lines atrophy or wasting away of the nail Onychatrophia

139 Onychocryptosis ingrown nail Onychauxis overgrowth of the nail plate Onychosis any nail disease Onychophosis accumulation of horny layers of epidermis under the nail

140 Hair Disease/Disorders Pityriasis Capitis dry dandruff Simplex Pityriasis Capitis Steatoids Seborrhea Oleosa greasy dandruff = Oily Dandruff Trichoptilosis split hair ends Trichorrehexis Nodosa knotted

141 Tinea Favosa honeycomb ringworm Tinea Capitis ringworm of the scalp Tinea Sycosis barber's itch Androgenetic Alopecia common hereditary hair loss Alopecia Adnata loss of hair shortly after birth hair loss in patches Alopecia Areata

142 hair loss caused by inflammation of hair follicles Alopecia Follicularis Alopecia Prematura hair loss early in life Alopecia Senilis hair loss from old age Alopecia Totalis hair loss from entire scalp

143 Alopecia Universalis hair loss from entire body Traction/Traumatic Alopecia patchy hair loss sometimes due to repetitive traction on the hair by pulling or twisting Postpartum Alopecia temporary hair loss at the conclusion of pregnancy Telogen Effluven hair loss during the telogen phase of the hair growth cycle Canities gray hair

144 Pediculosis Capitis Headlice Monilithrix beaded hair Fragilitis Crinium brittle hair Hirsuities/Hypertrichosis superfluous hair, excessive Scabies contagious disease caused by the itch mite Impetigo/Infantigo highly contagious bacterial infection, usually staphylococcal

145 Discoid Lupus chronic autoimmune disorder, causes red Erythematosus (DLE) often scarring plaques, hair loss, & internal effects Keloids forms when excess collagen forms at the site of a healing scar-overhealing Asteatosis excessive dry skin

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