Handout. Your salon s requirements for client preparation

Transcription

1 GH Your salon s requirements for client preparation The client s clothing must be covered and protected from cuttings. The minimum standards of protection may be as follows: Work station all furniture chair, worktop and footrest to be clean and tidy. No cut hairs to be present salon-use and displayed retail products to be clean retail products to be priced tools to be cleaned, disinfected and sterilised before use all electrical tools to be visually checked for safety before use all tools and equipment needed to carry out the service to be positioned for ease of use sharps box to be available Client clean towel to be placed around the client s shoulders and secured to prevent it from falling off clean gown to be placed on the client and properly secured if used by the salon, a cutting collar to be placed around the client s shoulders Find out what happens to the sharps box in your own salon when it is full.

2 GH Your salon s expected service times for cutting hair to shape A competent stylist must not only meet, and perhaps exceed, the standards of cutting proficiency required by the NVQ/ SVQ but they must also do so in a commercially viable time. It is important that you know the amount of time that your salon has allocated to different cutting effects and techniques. It is likely that the time available to you to carry out a complete restyle on a client is greater than that allowed for a maintenance trim. This to allow for additional consultation time and for the technical nature of the cut. You must be able to work accurately at a speed that ensures that you complete the work in the given time in order to remain profitable to the salon if you spend excessive time on each client you may not be able to do sufficient numbers of clients in a week. This will result in loss of profits for the salon and could result in the loss of your job. The ability to work accurately to a set time is necessary so that the salon can plan and implement an efficient appointments or queuing system. To operate an appointments system the salon must be able to allocate a financially viable time to each service. If you work to a queuing system you must be able to inform a client of the time they will have to wait for the service to be done. By operating these systems effectively you can offer a better service to clients by ensuring that they are not kept waiting or that they have the opportunity to decide whether to wait or to return at a less busy time. It also means that the salon can make best use of working time and other resources.

3 GH Your salon s and legal requirements for disposal of sharps and waste materials The Health & Safety at Work Act requires everyone in the workplace to work safely and with the safety of all others in mind. This includes the ways in which sharp objects and waste materials are disposed of. The waste materials that are produced while cutting hair are mainly: hair clippings used towels, gowns, capes All hair clippings should be swept up as soon as the work is complete. They should be placed into a lidded bin and collected as refuse in the normal way. All used gowns, towels and capes should be laundered for future use. decides its own rate of charge for providing this service. Few hairdressing businesses generate large quantities of sharps and may only need to arrange for their disposal on infrequent occasions. Find out which chemist or pharmacist in your area has been designated as the needle exchange point. Arrange a convenient time to visit or telephone to find out how sharps are disposed of. The type of used sharps that may be produced while cutting hair are: used razor blades old scissors razors damaged clipper blades The law requires that all sharp objects must be placed into a special container that is designed for this purpose. It is called a sharps box. Used blades or other sharps must not be wrapped in paper and taped up then put into the bin or in any other way disposed of other than to be placed into the sharps box. All local louncils have the responsibility to collect and safely dispose of sharp objects. They contract with local businesses to supply sharps containers of varying sizes, according to the amount of sharps being used and to dispose of them on behalf of the businesses. Each council

4 GH Electricity at Work Regulations The purpose of these regulations is to state that electrical equipment must be adequately maintained and checked by a qualified person. A written record of the equipment tests should be kept and should be made available for inspection. It is important to visually check if the equipment is safe for use by checking the flex and the plug. The equipment should only be used for its intended purpose and you should make sure that you know how to use it. When you have finished with the equipment, switch off, remove from the power source, allow heated items to cool and store the equipment safely away. It is your responsibility to ensure that any faulty equipment that you find in your workplace is removed from use, labelled as faulty and reported to a relevant person*. *You may be the responsible person in your salon to whom other people will report faulty electrical equipment. If this is the case you must ensure: the labelled faulty electrical equipment is kept in a safe place to await repair or disposal if it can be repaired, arrange for a qualified person to repair it if it cannot be repaired, carefully and safely dispose of the equipment

5 GH Your salon s image and expected standards of service Image To create the desired image a salon must choose its target market does it want to attract young, fashion conscious clients, families, the affluent people in the community or a wide and comprehensive cross-section? Image should be built with the target market in mind. The salon must view itself from the clients perspective. It must ask itself what impression does the client form when they enter the salon and during the service. encouraged. Staff must keep up-to-date and must strive to achieve high standards of work at all times. Image covers everything from the type of styling that is offered to the décor, comfort and cleanliness of the salon. Even the quality of the coffee is critical. If staff are friendly and helpful, as well as being efficient and competent, the impression is likely to be that the salon provides high quality services. A good image is created. Staff must uphold this good image by providing high quality work, keeping their work area clean and by maintaining a high level of client care, personal appearance and hygiene. Standards of service Every salon depends on its clientele in order to maintain financial viability. If the standards of service fall below the expectations of the clients then they will go elsewhere to find better standards. Salon profits will go with them. The quality of hairdressing must be maintained at a high level if the salon is to gain and keep a good reputation for high standards of service. Training should be ongoing and the use of new techniques, products and styling trends should be

6 Research GH16.1 Salon and legal requirements Part 1 Disposal of waste Investigate the arrangements and requirements your local authority has for the disposal of waste products. You can contact your local authority by writing to them or visiting their website. Write a short report on: The requirements and arrangements for the disposal of: sharps blood soiled waste Include the potential financial cost to the salon for these arrangements. Part 2 Electrical equipment Create a list of all the electrical items that are normally used in your salon or barbershop. Remember to include the radio, drinks machine, kettle etc. Against the list, write the date that the equipment will next need testing by a qualified electrician. Seek permission to put up the list on your salon notice board.

7 Session 1 Salon and legal requirements Learner check 1. State why it is not always possible to use a cutting collar State why speed as well as accuracy is important when cutting hair to shape Give three reasons why sharps must be disposed of in a sharps box Define image in terms of the image projected by a salon Specify four ways in which a stylist can ensure the maintenance of a high standard of service to clients.

8 GH The range of protective clothing and materials available for clients Before starting a cut the stylist must ensure that the client s clothing is well protected. The range of protective clothing and materials that should be available for clients are: towels gowns cutting collars shoulder capes neck strips Ensure that the client is comfortable before proceeding with the haircut. For example, ensure that the gown is not too tight around the neck or that the cutting collar is not rubbing. Further, check that all protective clothing and materials are securely placed to prevent them loosening or riding up during the process. If the hair is wet while being cut it will stick to the skin. If this happens, dry the skin with a fresh towel and dust with talcum powder. This will let you brush off all of the cuttings and help to ensure client comfort. Avoid using perfumed talcum powder or it may clash with the client s own perfume. very uncomfortable state as they won t be able to change out of the clothing that is holding the cut hairs against their skin. Some salons use neck strips of cotton wool or tissue to catch hairs and prevent them from getting under the clothing. In some cases a client s skin will become inflamed due to scratching to try to relieve the irritation caused by hair cuttings. Many clients complain that this is one of the worst aspects of having their hair cut, some even stop attending the salon and resort to mobile hairdressers who will visit them at home because they can shower and change immediately after the haircut. Summary it is important to protect clients from hair cuttings to maintain client comfort throughout and following the service to protect the client s clothing The importance of protecting clients from hair cuttings Try to avoid cut hairs working their way down under the client s clothing and onto the skin. This causes a lot of discomfort because the skin becomes irritated. The client has visited the salon early in the morning or during a lunch break. In which case, they may have to spend the rest of the day in a

9 GH How the position of your client and yourself can affect the desired outcome and reduce fatigue and the risk of injury To avoid producing an uneven haircut you must seat your client correctly so that they are not hunched or slouching: If the client is incorrectly seated you will not be able to see or reach easily, you may have to stretch or crouch down to reach some parts of the head It is important to ensure that the client s position is correct. If they are not seated properly they may be uncomfortable and this may cause them to fidget and move around. This can result in an inaccurate haircut. Good positioning allows you to work on clients more easily and efficiently. If you stand in the wrong position when cutting hair you are likely to increase the risk of becoming very tired very quickly and possibly causing long term damage to your muscles. Maintain balance and distribute your weight evenly by standing with legs straight and feet slightly apart. Keep your head up, avoid stretching or bending and try to let your muscles relax. When you become tired you lose concentration, this in turn will lead to making you slower and less effective. Discuss at least two examples of poor positioning with your trainer and colleagues. You must stand in a position that is relevant to the cut: For example: if you stand on one side of the client and cut hair on the opposite side, the result will be uneven if, for example, you cut a fringe without moving around the head and drag the hair from the opposite side over to you, this hair will be slightly longer If your posture is correct, a better working position is achieved. This will help you to increase speed, become more effective and more productive.

10 GH The safety considerations which must be taken into account when cutting hair The following list of the safety considerations must be taken into account when cutting hair. You must follow these basic rules to avoid causing damage to your client, yourself or others in the salon: make sure that your client is positioned comfortably ensure prompt removal of hair cuttings from the client during the service ensure prompt removal of hair cuttings from the floor at the end of the service dispose of all sharps in accordance with legal requirements and salon procedures ensure all cutting tools are maintained and are in good condition work carefully to avoid causing harm to yourself and others take care when handling cutting tools If you fail to observe these basic rules and an accident occurs you are likely to be held responsible in a claim for compensation. From the point of view of safety, why is it important to ensure that the client is positioned comfortably?

11 GH The importance of keeping your work area clean and tidy One of the first impressions formed by a client is of the appearance of the salon. This can happen even before they speak to a member of staff. The client may even have gained an impression by looking through the window in the evening, when the salon was closed. As a stylist it benefits you and the salon to maintain high, professional, standards of appearance. This applies to your own appearance as well as to your work area. If your work area is untidy and dirty the client is likely to think that they are not going to get a good service. If it is always clean and tidy it will create a professional image of the salon and of you. Bacteria will multiply in a dirty work area and infections are likely to be spread between clients and stylist. You have a professional duty to provide a hygienic environment for clients and by so doing you will minimise the risk of spreading infection. Another aspect of an untidy work area is that it often contains hazards loose, trailing wires, sharp cutting tools within easy reach or towels and gowns draping over chairs. By keeping work areas tidy the hazards are reduced. Summary The reasons why work areas should be left clean and tidy are: Discuss with your trainer and colleagues methods of keeping a salon clean, for example allocating jobs to staff. The importance of positioning your cutting tools for ease of use There are two main reasons for positioning your cutting tools for ease of use: to make sure that your tools are readily available when needed to ensure that you work efficiently throughout the service If you waste time in looking for something halfway through a treatment or service, it means that the client will have to wait while you find the tools and equipment required. This takes time and may irritate the client. It is poor client care you did not consider her time constraints, never mind your own. to maintain your and the salon s professional image to minimise the risk of cross-infection to reduce hazards

12 GH Methods of cleaning, disinfection and sterilisation used in salons Disinfection is the removal of microorganisms by chemical or physical means. It does not remove all microorganisms but reduces them to a safe level. (Disinfection does not kill bacterial spores.) Sterilisation is The process of destroying all organisms, whether harmful or not. There are three ways of sterilising tools and equipment in a salon. Heat - moist heat and dry heat Chemicals Ultraviolet rays Cleaning Tools must be thoroughly cleaned prior to disinfecting or sterilising by removing any loose hair and washing the tools in warm soapy water to remove any styling products, dirt, grease and chemicals such as colour or perm lotion. Moist heat this is a very effective method of sterilising all tools moist heat is created by the use of an autoclave which heats water to a very high temperature higher than boiling it creates super-heated steam - hot enough to quickly kill most common bacteria found in salons small, hand-held tools are put into the autoclave, sealed and the water inside is brought to the required temperature the temperature is maintained for the time necessary to ensure that all bacteria are dead then the water is allowed to cool before the tools are removed the main disadvantage of this method of sterilisation is you need to have sufficient supplies of tools to allow you to work on other clients while the autoclave is in use and you must buy combs that can withstand very high temperatures if they are to go into the autoclave Dry heat this method of sterilisation is rarely used in salons there are now pre-packed towels available that have been sterilised by this means high temperatures (of dry heat) are created in an oven glass bead sterilisers can be used to sterilise small metal tools the disadvantage is that although bacteria are effectively killed by this method tools can be damaged because they are held in the heat for an extended time Chemicals - disinfectant often used in salons and are effective if used correctly tools are required to be washed before placing into the chemical solution they must be left in the chemical long enough for it to do its job the chemical must fully cover the item and may take up to an hour to sterilise as with using an autoclave, hairdressers must have enough tools to allow for the time to sterilise UV light rays: uses ultraviolet (uv) light rays to kill bacteria the tools must be cleaned then placed into the UV cabinet the uv light sterilises those areas that it reaches the items will require turning so that all surfaces are treated This method is not recommended but is suitable for storing pre-sterilised and disinfected tools. Don t place electric clippers into an autoclave or any liquid. Remove cutting blades and attachments for sterilisation or use special sterilising sprays designed for this purpose.

13 GH Methods of working safely and hygienically and which minimise the risk of cross-infection and cross-infestation and why it is important to avoid cross-infection and infestation The Health & Safety at Work Act requires that all people work safely and hygienically. This is to help prevent accidents and the spread of infection. We have a duty to our clients to provide a safe and hygienic environment in which they can have their hair done. Working safely You must ensure that you: use all tools with care sweep up all hair cuttings from the floor at the end of the service maintain cutting tools in good condition Working hygienically You must: use clean protective materials clean disinfect or sterilise tools remove hair cuttings from the client throughout the service keep the work area clean and tidy throughout the service You must use tools only for their intended purpose and check the plug and flex of electrical items before use. Always position the client for comfort and ease of working and make sure that you dispose of all waste according to local bye-laws and salon requirements. Why it is important to avoid crossinfection and infestation The reputation and image of the salon will be damaged, probably permanently, if effective measures are not taken to avoid cross-infection and infestation. It is very important that the salon operates to high standards of hygiene so that the risk of passing infection or infestation to clients will be kept to a minimum. Summary The reasons why it is important to avoid crossinfection and infestation are: to minimise the risk of cross infection and infestation to ensure the image and reputation of the salon is maintained

14 GH The correct use and maintenance of cutting tools You must ensure that you use tools that are in good condition and fit for purpose. Use them only for cutting hair do not cut any other material with them. One way of ensuring that they are in good condition is to clean them after use and apply a little oil as necessary. Oil should be applied to any moving parts such as clipper blades or to the pivot of scissors. Ensure that you remove excess oil before use. If using a razor use one that has disposable blades and properly dispose of the blade after each client, this helps to reduce the risk of transmitting infection. Ensure that your tools are sharp and always check the clipper blades before use to make sure that they are properly set. The moving blade must not protrude beyond the edge of the still blade or the client s skin will be cut if the clippers are used to line the haircut. All cutting tools must be carried and used in a safe manner do not mess around in the salon while cutting tools are being used or carried.

15 GH The importance of personal hygiene The most important thing a client wants when they come to a salon is good hairdressing. If the stylist provides a good service to a high standard then the client is likely to return. However, if the stylist does not ensure that their personal hygiene is of the same high standard as their hairdressing, the client may not come back. Body odour (BO) can be the result of insufficient cleanliness. Human skin contains sweat glands that secrete waste in the form of sweat. Bacteria need warm, moist conditions to be able to multiply. There are lots of harmless bacteria in the sweaty, warm folds of the body, for example, the groin and in the armpits. When bacteria die they decompose, they decay, and this is what causes odour. If a person washes thoroughly at least every 24 hours and changes their clothing it is unlikely that they will have BO. All clothing that comes into contact with the skin, especially the type that is in contact with the armpits and groin, must be changed once a day. The clothing absorbs sweat and if this is not washed or dry cleaned out of the fabric it will smell. Oral hygiene must be maintained by frequently brushing your teeth and visiting the dentist regularly to ensure that you have no decaying teeth. Bad teeth can cause bad breath. Hands and nails will be in full view of the client, therefore they must always be clean. If nail varnish is worn it should not be chipped. Hairdressing is a very personal service and the personal hygiene and appearance of the people who work in the industry is of great importance. You must pay close attention to: hygiene daily shower or bath the use of antiperspirants and deodorants oral (mouth) hygiene appearance hair and make-up hands and nails shoes jewellery posture Some people try to cover the smell of unwashed skin or clothing by using deodorants. It is not possible to do this the odour is still noticeable to others although the person themselves may not be aware of it. Antiperspirants and deodorants are designed to be used on clean skin and should never be applied to unwashed skin.

16 Slide GH Sweat Glands

17 Research GH16.2 Working safely, cleanly and hygienically when cutting hair The correct use and maintenance of cutting tools The cutting tools that you use should be looked after very carefully - they will need ongoing maintenance in order to keep them working and in good condition. The cutting tools in the range are: scissors (including thinning scissors) clippers (including outliners) razors The research Research the maintenance that is recommended by the manufacturer for the tools and equipment you currently own and use. You may find this information by writing to the manufacturer or by visiting their website. Alternatively, if you are due to visit a hairdressing exhibition, you may have the opportunity to talk face to face with the manufacturer. List the tools and equipment you own and use, then note the findings of your research in a short report. In addition You may like to explore the internet to obtain information about a range of tools and equipment that is currently available for cutting hair.

18 Session 2 GH16 How to work safely, effectively and hygienically when cutting hair Learner check 1. What is the best way to remove damp hair from the skin? 2. What is your salon s expected service time for a classic one length cut? Why must your posture be correct when cutting hair? 4. State four of the safety considerations that you must take into account when cutting Why must all salons operate to a high standard of hygiene? 6 Name two ways of working safely when cutting hair

19 Session 2 GH16 How to work safely, effectively and hygienically when cutting hair Learner check 7. Specify two methods of working hygienically while cutting hair To which part of electric clippers would you apply oil? 8.

20 GH The importance of consulting with clients throughout the cutting process It is essential that you carry out a full consultation before starting the cut and consultation must be an on-going part of the service. During the consultation you should be able to verify the client s requirements and identify anything that may restrict or assist you in the work that you intend to do. This will allow you to accurately establish the client s wishes, for example: do they want a full restyle or simply a maintenance trim? how much length do they want to retain? do they want a chunky, solid cut or a soft, wispy shape? Some clients will say one thing but mean another, for example: asking for a razor cut but actually wanting a shape that would be better achieved using scissors identifying a style by name this name may not be the name that you would give to the style referring to clippers when they really mean a razor ask you to take 5cms off when they only want 2cms removed Give an example of why it is important to use visual aids such as style books while conducting a consultation with a client. It will also help you to give the client additional, accurate information about their hair and scalp, for example: the benefits that would be gained from a conditioning treatment the need for the colour to be redone or refreshed Once this has been done and the cut has been started it is just as important to continue to consult with the client. You can check the progress of the haircut to meet the client s requirements. For example: is it short enough? are you achieving the desired look? is it wispy enough?

21 GH16.3.2a How to clearly present information, advice and recommendations and to assist the client to come to an informed decision When a client comes to a stylist to have their hair done, one of the things they are likely to be looking for is advice and guidance on a new hairstyle. They may want to know: what is fashionable what would suit them which styles are easy to look after The client may feel apprehensive about having their hair cut, in which case you must try to allocate sufficient time to be able to give guidance and to discuss their concerns. Be aware that whenever anyone is speaking, there is an expectation that the person they are speaking to will be listening. If that person does not listen, there is likely to be a breakdown in communication. In order that you can fully understand the client s requirements you must hold a full discussion with them. During the discussion you should present your recommendations to them along with information that will help them reach an informed decision on a new look. Throughout the discussion you must: speak clearly use positive body language make openings for the client to ask questions and make comments avoid using jargon or slang words speak in an even, well modulated tone ask relevant questions listen carefully to what the client says to their comments and questions clarify by further discussion any areas of which you or the client are unsure answer the client s questions in a clear and straightforward way

22 GH16.3.2b How to clearly present information, advice and recommendations and to assist the client to come to an informed decision Clients sometimes complain that they didn t realise that their hair would have to be cut as short as it was to achieve the agreed look. This may lead them to feel displeased or upset - and could lead to the loss of that client. Another frequent complaint is that the client didn t know how difficult it would be to maintain the look. On the other hand, it can sometimes be difficult for stylists to understand the style a client is trying to describe. They very often use hand movements or half completed sentences to specify the direction in which they want their hair to lie or to indicate the amount of lift or movement that they require. Does your salon set a time limit on consultations? Should all clients be allocated the same amount of time for consultation? Discuss with your trainer and your colleagues what is considered to be a reasonable time to spend in consultation. use visual aids to illustrate how a haircut will look in order to ensure that you have correctly interpreted your client s wishes discuss any influencing factors when making style suggestions to ensure the client has a clear understanding of the effect and maintenance of the cut always speak clearly, ask relevant questions and answer questions in a clear, straightforward way use positive body language make openings for the client to make comments and listen carefully to their questions and comments Never assume that the client knows what you mean check that they do and give further clarification when necessary. Once you have agreed what the client is having, it is important that to bring the discussion to an end by summarising what has been agreed.

23 Handout (1 of 3) GH The factors that must be taken into consideration prior to and during cutting and when cutting wet and dry hair As a stylist you must be aware of the possibility of spreading infections or infestations from client to client or of the likelihood of contracting the condition yourself. During the consultation you must ensure you check for: hair and skin disorders hair length hair density elasticity texture growth patterns shape of the head, face and body client s lifestyle client s requirements Suspected infections It is possible to pass infections from client to client. You must ensure that your standards of hygiene are very high if you are to minimise this risk. There are many infections that can be transmitted in a salon, for example, impetigo or ringworm of the head, but the most dangerous infections that stylists can spread are Hepatitis B and HIV. The virus that causes these can be passed in body fluids such as blood. Therefore, bleeding from a cut or nick occurring during the cutting process could be potentially dangerous. Suspected infestations You must learn to recognise head lice and the signs of scabies and ensure that you take steps to prevent transferring the infestation from one client to another. for head lice it is possible to see the lice in the hair or on the scalp. The eggs of the head louse nits are stuck to the hairs close to the scalp, usually around the ears and in the nape area the warm areas of the head the signs of scabies are the presence of a rash on the folds of the body, for example, on the wrists and behind the knees. The areas will look irritated due to the intense itchiness of the condition Hair length You must consider the existing length of the client s hair. For example, the hair may be too short to allow you to create the look the client wants. Hair density You must take the density of the hair into account when deciding on a look for the client. If the hair is very sparse, or too abundant, certain looks may not be suitable. Hair texture The texture of the client s hair may be unsuitable for the required look. Fine, soft hair often lies flat to the head whereas coarse hair is sometimes too voluminous. Hair elasticity You must take the hair s elasticity into account when cutting hair if it is very elastic it will stretch further than hair with poor elasticity.

24 Handout (2 of 3) GH Elasticity is the ability to stretch and return to the original length. Remember, too, that wet hair will stretch further than dry hair so apply the correct degree of tension when cutting the hair. If you stretch wet hair too much when cutting it will be too short when it dries and returns to its unstretched state. Head, face and body shape You must choose a look that will complement the client s head, face and body shape. Avoid cuts that emphasise any bad features such as a large nose, a sloping forehead or a short neck. Hair growth patterns You must identify any growth patterns that can influence the way the hair is cut as well as the choice of look. The most common are: neck or nape whorl this is when the hair grows upwards or towards the centre at one or both sides of the neckline. The hair must either be left long enough to cover the growth pattern or cut into a very short look cowlick at the front hairline. Design a look that incorporates this growth pattern as the hair usually falls into a natural parting at the cowlick. Do not cut the hair short in this area or it will stick straight out from the head, leave fringes heavy and longer widows peak this pattern forms a point at the centre of the front hairline. The hair grows from the centre towards the sides or from the sides towards the centre, preventing some looks from being achieved double crown this growth pattern is often confused with an offset crown. A true double crown is when there are two distinct and separate whorls in the crown area. The hair must be left longer in this area to prevent it sticking up from the head and becoming uncontrollable Hair and skin disorders Many hair or skin disorders will affect the choice of haircut. The most common are: damaged cuticle the hair is dry and will be porous. Often affects the ends of the hair. Can be due to physical or chemical damage split ends (fragilitis crinium) caused by physical or chemical damage. The points of the hair become dry and split alopecia there are different types of alopecia but all result in areas of baldness. The skin is very smooth and looks shiny psoriasis thickened, raised patches of skin. It can look silvery and is very itchy sebaceous cyst a lump on the scalp caused by a blocked sebaceous gland eczema red, weeping, irritated skin. Can be painful dandruff greasy dandruff is a scalp condition that may be caused by a fungal infection. Dry dandruff, where small pieces of skin flake off and are trapped in the hair or drop onto the neck and shoulders may be due to chemical use

25 Handout (3 of 3) GH Unless the dandruff is caused by a fungal infection, none of the above conditions are infectious or contagious. Client lifestyle This plays a key part in choosing the best look for a client. If the client s lifestyle does not allow them to spend either the necessary time or money on a look, it is wrong to suggest it. The client may have an occupation which determines how they wear their hair. For example, they may have to cover their hair or wear it tied back. Client requirements You must always try to meet the client s requirements unless they are unsuitable or impossible to meet. Summary The factors to be considered are: suspected infections: you must minimise the risk of spreading infections suspected infestations: always try to reduce the risk of spreading infestations hair length: the hair may be too short to achieve the desired look or the client may refuse to let you cut it short enough to achieve the look head, face and body shape: the look may be unflattering to the head, face or body hair density: the hair may be too abundant or too sparse for the look hair texture: the texture may be unsuitable for the desired look hair growth patterns: there may be a pattern that prevents you from either agreeing a specific look or from being able to progress with it hair and skin disorders: the choice of the cut may be influenced by a hair or skin disorder suffered by the client hair elasticity: if the elasticity is good then you should avoid putting too much tension on wet hair while cutting to prevent it being shorter than intended once it dries and returns to its natural state client lifestyle: the lifestyle may not allow enough time or other resources necessary for the upkeep of the look client requirements: the client may have chosen a look that cannot be achieved or that is unflattering or unsuitable for them The factors when cutting hair wet or dry to be considered hair type can be more easily seen on dry hair (too curly, wavy or straight for the look?) hairstyle wet hair shows the natural parting (ie if it lies to one or other side, etc.) hair growth patterns best seen on dry hair (can influence decisions related to the length of the hair cut, ie some hair may need to be left longer to disguise some hair growth patterns) hair elasticity avoid too much tension when cutting (this will stretch the hair).

26 The average rate of hair growthhandout GH The average rate of growth of a human hair is 1 /2 inch or 1.25 cms a month. It is important that you know this so that you can advise the client as to how soon they should return to the salon in order to maintain the hair cut. When discussing the maintenance of a look, clients sometimes ask the stylist to shorten their hair to the same as at the last haircut. This can be difficult to calculate unless you know the average rate of growth. By finding out the approximate date of the last cut you can work out how much hair to take off to bring the length back to the same as before. The potential risk of ingrowing hair resulting from the continual close cutting of curly hair This can happen if you apply tension to the skin when razoring off neck hairs outside the neckline or when clippering against the direction of growth. Hairs may curl in the follicle, pierce the follicle wall and grow into the skin instead of from the follicle opening. If hairs are cut so short that they are beneath the surface of the skin the same thing can happen. Inflammation and infection can result.

27 Slide GH use visual aids - style books, salon photographic collections, videos explain and discuss any factors that may influence the cut speak clearly ask relevant questions answer the client s questions in a clear, straightforward way use positive body language make openings for the client to make comments and ask questions listen carefully to those questions and comments

28 Slide GH suspected infections suspected infestations hair length head, face and body shape hair density hair texture hair growth patterns hair and skin disorders hair elasticity client lifestyle client requirements

29 Slide GH Ingrowing hair

30 Research GH16.3a Client Communication One way of ensuring client consultation is correctly recorded is to write client responses to questions on a consultation sheet. When conducting client consultation, you need to be aware that you will only receive relevant information from the client if you ask the right questions. The research 1. Devise a consultation sheet that will suitable for use when completing a consultation prior to and during haircutting. Include the following: information about the hair and scalp information about the client information about previous treatments and intended treatments any other relevant details that may influence the service 2. Pilot the consultation sheet and write a short report on its effectiveness. In the report you should include: your consultation sheet (include rough designs, draft copies and the final copy) a selection of completed consultation sheets where you may have to adapt or change the questions to ensure you cover the relevant areas

31 Research GH16.3b Developing communication and consultation skills Communication is vital for a successful consultation in cutting. Carrying out a consultation with most clients is straightforward but, for some, you need to develop special skills. The Disability Discrimination Act ensures that people with a disability have access to services. This includes hairdressing and barbering services. Some disabilities include partial or complete deafness or blindness. The research Research the most effective methods for successfully communicating with clients who may have difficulties with hearing or sight. In particular you should investigate: how you can adapt your communicating and consultation techniques how to ensure your salon or barbershop ensures inclusivity for all clients Following your research present your findings in a short report. You can find information from local support services, from the internet, or by writing to the national organisations who provide support for people with disabilities.

32 Session 3 GH16 Creatively cut hair using a combination of techniques Learner check 1. Describe the symptoms of tinea capitis Describe the symptoms of impetigo If either of the above conditions are suspected should hairdressing procedures be carried out? Of the following list, identify at least two that are infectious or contagious and give the common name for each: 4. eczema herpes simplex psoriasis monilethrix seborrhoea furunculosis verrucae

33 GH Classic and current hair shapes for women Classic women s hair shapes These haircuts are looks that have a timeless appeal which never go out of fashion. Many classic cuts are adapted into current fashion looks. Current women s hair shapes These are what are considered in fashion at the present time. The main influences today are commercial and linked to the media. Female personalities from TV, acting, fashion and the music world are the main images projected. In order to predict what next season s look is likely to be, you should: take note of street fashions and the media images visit hairdressing events such as demonstrations, exhibitions or competitions subscribe to hairdressing journals The inability or a lack of attitude to keep up and be aware of emerging fashions in hairdressing is a serious one and could have personal financial repercussions.

34 GH How the factors in the range can affect the way the hair is cut It is very important to consider all factors that may have an effect on the cut shape. Head, face and body shape must be considered because: the style may be unsuitable for or unflattering to the head, face or body shape Hair growth patterns affect the way hair is cut because: there may be a growth pattern that forces you to change the choice of cut you may have to alter your chosen tools to achieve the required look Hair density can affect the way you cut the hair because: the hair may be too sparse for the look that the client wants the hair may be too abundant for the required look The hair length must be taken into account because: Hair elasticity can affect the way the hair is cut because: you will have to adjust the degree of tension that you put on the hair during cutting according to the amount of elasticity in the hair The client s requirements are important because: the client may ask for a look that is impossible to achieve on the hair the client may want a look that is unflattering or unsuitable The client s lifestyle is a critical factor because: the client may not have sufficient time to maintain the look the client may not have sufficient financial resources to maintain the look By considering all of these factors before starting a cut you will avoid creating an unsatisfactory result. it may be too short to allow you to create the required style The texture of the hair affects the haircut because: if the hair is too coarse the required look may be unsuitable if the hair is very fine it may not be possible to create the look that the client wants

35 GH How and when to use different cutting techniques on women s hair Part 1 - How to use different techniques: Club cutting The hair is combed smoothly from the roots, held securely between the fingers at the correct angle to achieve the desired effect and cut straight across. Tapering Sometimes called slither cutting or point tapering. A section of hair is held in the fingers then the scissors are gently slithered backwards and forwards along the section to remove some of the hair by thinning the points. The scissors are only slightly opened and closed during this process, they must never be fully closed or the section of hair will be cut off. The technique can also be achieved using a razor in a gentle slicing motion towards the points along half of the length. Scissors-over-comb Hair is lifted and held in the comb by combing in an upward motion. Holding the scissors above the comb, the hair that protrudes through the comb is cut off. Use the coarse teeth of the comb when cutting longer hair and the fine teeth for holding the short hair around ears and nape. Clipper-over-comb The same method is used as for scissors-over-comb but the hair should be dry. Clippers are often used in the nape area when the hair is to be cut very short. Thinning Reduces bulk by shortening some of the hair in a section, thus retaining the overall length of the hair. Usually done by closing serrated scissors at different points on the mid-lengths and ends, or by using a razor to gently slice into the mid-lengths and ends. Graduating Hair is held in the fingers at an angle to the head and cut to achieve variation in lengths, either becoming longer or shorter towards the top of the head. The angle at which the hair is held determines the degree of graduation. Layering The method is almost the same as for graduation but the variation in lengths is much less pronounced, so usually produces uniform lengths over the head. Texturising Creates an uneven effect by cutting to different lengths at the points in relevant sections. Freehand The hair is combed smoothly into position and cut without holding or supporting it with either hand or comb Disconnecting Creates long and short lengths that do not blend together. Part 2 - How to use different techniques: Choose a range of haircuts and identify the cutting techniques that have been used to achieve the looks. Choose at least five looks and ensure that all of the cutting techniques are identified. Present your findings to your trainer or to other members of your group.

36 GH Which tools can be used on either wet or dry hair or both Wet hair The following tools can be used when cutting wet hair: scissors, except thinning scissors a razor must only be used on wet hair Dry Hair The following tools can be used when cutting dry hair: scissors thinning scissors clippers (electric or hand operated) The reasons for establishing and following guidelines The three reasons for establishing and following guidelines are: to determine the finished length and shape of the cut to ensure methodical progression through the cut to ensure accuracy of the cut If you follow the guidelines you will be able to work in a methodical, structured way and this will help to ensure an accurate, balanced haircut. How to create and follow guidelines for the looks in the range A guideline can run horizontally - at the nape, from ear to ear around the back of the head or across the crown. It can be vertical, usually from the centre front hairline through to the centre back neckline. It is immaterial where the guideline starts or finishes, the important feature of any guideline is its accuracy. It is important to have a finished result in your mind before you start the cut. You must know how long the hair at each area of the head has to be. A good way of ensuring that you achieve the correct lengths at the correct place is to create guidelines and follow them. The guideline must be accurate and if more than one guideline is used then you should ensure that you connect them or, in the case of disconnected cuts, that each area conforms to its own guideline.

37 Activity GH Classic and current fashion looks You have been provided with a range of classic and current fashion looks. Look carefully at each picture and determine where the guidelines would need to be placed. Haircut 5 Discuss the results with your trainer or with other members of your group. Haircut 1 Haircut 2 Haircut 3 Haircut 4

38 GH Personalising and adapting cutting techniques When you began cutting, you will have been taught to follow very structured and regimented routines in order to produce a basic, but accurate haircut. This was a vital step for any hairdresser beginning their training. Once the cutting rules have been learned, consistent results will follow. This in turn gives confidence to the hairdresser. However, following such organised shapes can become stifling especially if you want to explore your creativity. Therefore, once you are confident in your cutting skills you will soon begin to personalise and adapt the cutting rules used for basic hairdressing. This isn t so difficult to do. As you are aware all clients hair is different, so even if you want to cut the same style on two different clients, you would have to adapt what you did to the first client to accommodate the different hair growth pattern, hair type and texture of the second. You will want to experiment with: how you texturise the hair how you hold the hair the tools you choose to use the angles you choose the focus on the weight distribution of the hair You may be influenced by: reading trade magazines and journals watching others working especially leading hairdressers watching DVDs watching demonstrations Taking this a step further - as you are cutting classic commercial styles and, in particular, current fashions, you will find that you change the way you cut.

39 Activity GH You have been provided with a range of style plates or photographs of classic/ current looks. With each photograph is a description of the way the cut was achieved and a list of the tools that were used. The Activity Suggest a cutting technique that is different to the one provided. In addition, suggest alternative tools for achieving the same effect. Discuss your results with your trainer or other members of your group.

40 GH How to crosscheck and balance the cut, why this is important and the importance of considering weight distribution and working with the growth patterns of the hair When hair is cut a stylist takes sections of hair into the fingers and these sections will run up and down the head - vertical sections, or across the head horizontal sections. If vertical sections have been used you must take horizontal sections to check the accuracy of the cut, if you have used horizontal sections then use vertical sections when checking. Crosschecking ensures that the cut is accurate and meets the client s requirements. When balancing the cut check that it is even at both sides of the head use the features of the head and face to measure the hair. Take into account that facial features may be very slightly uneven. determine the final shape of the cut, the techniques that will be used and how the finished cut will look. When the growth patterns are checked during the consultation, you may find that some of the initial decisions relating to choice of look, techniques or tools have to be changed or adapted. If you do not work with the natural growth patterns the result is likely to be unsatisfactory. Summary It is important to consider weight distribution and the natural growth patterns of hair when combining cutting techniques so that: the shape will last the desired shape will be achieved you can choose the best cutting tools and techniques to achieve the hair cut Weight distribution The hair may be sparse on the top, at the temples or all over. It may be very bulky in the nape or behind the ears, at the crown or in the upper rear temporal area. A stylist should check the weight distribution at the consultation and design the cut accordingly. It is important to consider the angle at which the hair is held for cutting. Hair that is held at less than 90 to the scalp and the floor will have the weight concentrated at the bottom. If it is held at more than 90 the hair may look straggly at the nape because there will be little weight at the bottom of the head. Natural growth patterns of the hair The natural growth pattern of the hair will