concentrated emulsions Our ingredients, your creativity. Cosmetic Ingredients

Transcription

1 concept concentrated emulsions Our ingredients, your creativity. Cosmetic Ingredients

2 THE PROCESS fast and simple The RES CONCEPT line allows the formulator to continuously create new and different emulsions. It is possible to choose the most suitable RES CONCEPT product and then add anything that the formulators creativity requires. WATER LIPIDS ACTIVE INGREDIENTS RHEOLOGICAL MODIFIER PERFUME PRESERVATIVE The key to using RES CONCEPT products is the accurate selection of a suitable rheological agent. The rheological agent can be added at any stage during the simple cold manufacturing process. The correct choice of agent depends on the required viscosity of the product being manufactured. RES PHARMA has completed many tests and has developed numerous example formulations, a few of which may been consulted on the following pages. RES PHARMA Centro Tecnico is at our customers disposal for assistance with the use of RES CONCEPT products (ratio between dilution of RES CONCEPT/quantity of rheological agent), and the correct choice of compatible rheological agent. Choose your RES CONCEPT... dilute... prepare the oil phase... add the oil phase while mixing... homogenise. Benefit by using the RES CONCEPT website to its full potential. By registering you will have access to technical data sheets, Material Safety Data Sheet, marketing information and formula examples. If you subscribe, you will also receive our periodical newsletter containing information about new products, applications, testwork, technical publications and formulas.

3 THE CONCEPT benefits RES PHARMA has developed a new series of products called RES CONCEPT, which are extremely stable concentrated cosmetic emulsions that can be used as a chassis emulsion for the production of every type of cosmetic product. Based on our know-how in emulsion technology, over the past 6 years RES PHARMA has specialised in the production of concentrated emulsions for use in the Wet Wipe industry. RES CONCEPT products are, in fact, the result of our experience with Wet Wipe concentrated emulsions. Further studies show how they can be used to make excellent quality cosmetic emulsions of any viscosity through the simple use of rheological agents. RES CONCEPT is a completely new way of approaching the manufacturing process of cosmetic emulsions. The formulator can use an emulsion chassis on which he can use his or her creativity to build original, modern and quality products with a cold manufacturing process. RES CONCEPT emulsions can be used pure, however we suggest a use of between 5% and 30% for this type of application where they can offer the possibility to create numerous types of products according to the correct choice and concentration of rheological agent: Sprayable emulsions, such as: deodorants, sun creams and after sun products, hair shine emulsions, anti-tangle emulsions, etc. Medium viscosity emulsions, such as body lotions, sun and after sun lotions, hair and body conditioners, hand lotions, detergent lotions, face lotions, eye contour serums, etc. Thick, viscous emulsions, such as day and night creams, eye contour creams, hand creams, protective and lenitive creams for babies, etc. ❶ COLD EASY FAST PROCESS RES CONCEPT products do not require heating during the manufacturing process. Both liposoluble and hydrosoluble ingredients or phases can also be added cold. ❷ FASTER LAB DEVELOPMENT TIME Thanks to their ease of use, the development time required to produce a lab formula is drastically reduced. The formulator can therefore offer a wider choice of formula to the customer/marketing department. ❸ INCREASED PRODUCTION CAPACITY A cold production process requires less time than a traditional emulsion manufacturing process, allowing production to produce more batches per day. ❹ ECONOMICAL FORMULATION The efficacy of these ingredients mean they can be used in quantities ranging between 5 and 30% to produce quality cosmetic emulsions and consequently lower total formula costs. ❺ VERSATILITY The same RES CONCEPT ingredient can be used to manufacture cosmetic emulsions of any viscosity: from spray emulsions such as deodorants, sunscreen products, to thick creams, such as day or night creams or moisturizing creams. ❻ LOGISTICAL SAVINGS As the same emulsion concentrate can be used to manufacture a whole range of finished products, positive effects can be had with logistical issues (the number of raw materials purchased, transported and stocked.

4 THE PRODUCT line Concentrated base emulsion developed considering basic formulistic needs. Can be used to lower the total formula cost and produce competitive entry level (mass market) cosmetic products while still guaranteeing excellent sensorial properties even at low percentage of use. INCI name: Aqua, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ceteareth-22, Glycerin, Palmeth-2, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Paraffinium Liquidum, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic acid, Dehydro-acetic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin. PEG-Free concentrated emulsion developed to facilitate the production of modern, innovative cosmetic products that meet current market trends. The absence of ethoxylated raw materials makes this product an excellent marketing tool. It is possible to obtain soft and silky textured products even at low percentages. INCI name: Aqua, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, C10-18 Trigyceries, Polyglyceryl-3 Esters Phosphate, Triisostearin, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Diglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben. Concentrated emulsion with excellent skin feel, guaranteed by the emollient and skin nourishing characteristics of Diglycerin and Triisostearin. Can be used, even at low percentages, to develop products intended for use on delicate and easily irritable skin where a superior lipidic contribution is required. INCI name: Aqua, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Triisostearin, Ceteareth-22, Palmeth-2, Diglycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Palmeth-2 Phosphate, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic acid, Dehydro-acetic acid, Ethylhexylglycerin. A concentrated mother sunscreen emulsion that can be used in an identical manner to the other RES CONCEPT products. It can be used to formulate sunscreen products of different viscosities simply and quickly while still leaving the formulator the possibility to personalise his or her formula with their own creativity. INCI name: Aqua, Ethylhexyl Metoxy Cinnammate, Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydi Benzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Ceteareth-22, Glycerin, Palmeth-2, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Tetrasodium Edta, Preservative The RES CONCEPT line are not tested on animals, are classified as non-irritant according to IN VITRO tests. (details available on request)

5 STRUCTURE and STABILITY of the emulsion It is known that traditional emulsions have an average droplet size of between 1 and 100 µm (macro-emulsion). Innovation in the field of emulsion technology has begun to favour the micronisation of the dispersed phase. In such cases we are considering mini emulsions, structures in which the diameter of the droplets is within the nm range. Droplets are so tiny that gravity has no effect upon them. In this way the structure of the emulsion is notably more stable compared to a traditional emulsion. The precise mix of emulsifiers, together with an emulsification technique studied in RES PHARMA s laboratories, has allowed us to manufacture emulsions where the average particle size of fat globules is smaller than 1 µm. It is possible to observe the particle size in the photograph taken under a microscope a x1000 magnifications. RES CONCEPT emulsions have special chemical-physical characteristics: notwithstanding their 40% concentration of the internal phase they are extremely fluid and particularly stable with regards to creaming and flocculation (longer shelf-life and better stability). It is well known that key aspects of emulsion stability are the average fat globule size and the distribution pattern. Particle diameter of RES CONCEPT emulsion vs. traditional emulsion. The average droplet diameter of our RES CONCEPT emulsions was determined using the Coulter Counter, and size distribution values are given in volume% vs. droplet diameter. The graph reveals the great difference in average fat globule diameter when comparing the RES CONCEPT emulsion with the same formula manufactured with a traditional method of emulsification. The results clearly show how our emulsification technology drastically reduces the particle size and also causes a monomodal distribution.

6 RHEOLOGICAL properties The rheological properties of RES CONCEPT concentrated O/W emulsions were investigated using a Rheomat RM180 rheometer, equipped with a concentric cylinder system with a conical end, an instrument that allows the computer controlled characterisation of products under different flow conditions. The protocol used to analyse the products is an hysteresis loop test: first, the shear rate is continuously increased from zero to 1200 s-1 (up flow curve) and then is reduced again to zero (down flow curve). In the graph that shows log viscosity vs. log shear rate the slope of the curve measures the shear-thinning behaviour of the emulsion and the area between the two up and down curves indicates the presence of thixotropy. Flow curves of RES CONCEPT emulsion vs. traditional emulsion. The efficacy of our production technology is evident when you compare the rheology of the RES CONCEPT concentrated emulsion with the same emulsion prepared with the traditional production method. The behaviour of the traditional emulsion is classical. We can observe the typical shear-thinning behaviour: the viscosity is high, but due to the break-down of the microstructure it is reduced as the shear rate is increased. Also, the build-up of the system is subject to a notable time dependence. However, notwithstanding the high concentration of internal phase (40%), the RES CONCEPT concentrated emulsion behaves like a simple fluid, showing a quasi-newtonian behaviour: not only is its viscosity much thinner, but it is also little affected by shear rate. Also, the up and down curves are practically identical, showing an almost total absence of thixotropy. The nanometric scale of oil droplets and very low particle-particle interactions are believed to be responsible for the behaviour of our emulsion. Flow curves of RES CONCEPT emulsion vs. competitors. The rheological behaviour of our RES CONCEPT concentrated emulsions is even more evident when compared to those of our main competitors. Both competitors products behave like classical structured emulsions, clearly being time dependent, where the drops of oil tend to interact between themselves forming clusters of flocculation. However, the RES CONCEPT concentrated emulsion, notwithstanding the fact that it has an equal or superior fraction of dispersed phase compared to the other products, demonstrates quasi-newtonian behaviour. The absence of a Thixotropic behaviour is a major benefit of our product and guarantees a superior ease of use and the superior stability of the products that can be manufactured with these ingredients.

7 APPLICATION in formulation RES CONCEPT emulsions can be used pure, however we suggest a use of between 5% and 30% for this type of application where they can offer the possibility to create numerous types of products according to the correct choice and concentration of rheological agent: Sprayable emulsions, such as: deodorants, sun creams and after sun products, hair shine emulsions, anti-tangle emulsions, etc. Medium viscosity emulsions, such as body lotions, sun and after sun lotions, hair and body conditioners, hand lotions, detergent lotions, face lotions, eye contour serums, etc. Thick, viscous emulsions, such as day and night creams, eye contour creams, hand creams, protective and lenitive creams for babies, etc. SOME EXAMPLE FORMULATIONS: LENITIVE AFTERSUN SPRAY Trade name % w/w INCI name A) Aqua 74,80 Simugel Ns(1) 01,20 B) Resconcept CARE 20,00 See TDS Aloe vera 200:1 00,50 Marigold Glycolic extract 01,00 Resplanta RICE 01,00 Glycerth-8 Rice Oil Esters Resplanta OLEA 01,00 Olive Oil PEG-8 Esters C) Perfume 00,30 D) Preservatives Q.b. Appearance: white shinny fluid emulsion, soft and pleasant texture (1) Seppic PROTECTIVE DAY CREAM Trade name % w/w INCI name A) Resconcept PGF 15,00 See TDS Rice Oil 01,00 Rice bran Oil Parsol SLX(1) 02,00 Polysilicone-15 Vitamin E acetate(1) 00,50 Tocopheryl acetate Dry Flo PC (2) 02,00 Aluminum starch Octenylsuccinate Preservative 01,10 Phenoxyethanol/Ethylexylglycerin B) Demin. water q.b.100 Aqua Vegetal Glycerine 03,00 Glycerin C) Resil SP 01,20 Sodium Polyacrylate D) Wheat Cerasome 00,50 Triticum Vulgare seed extract Perfume 00,20 Parfum Appearance: thick white shinny cream (1) DSM (2) National Starch AFTERSHAVE EMULSION Trade name % w/w INCI name A) Resconcept A 10,00 See TDS Vitamin E acetate (1) 00,50 Tocopheryl acetate All Q Plus (1) 00,20 Ubiquinone Tocopheryl acetate and C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Jojoba Oil 00,50 Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil B) Water q.b.100 Aqua Vegetal Glycerin 03,00 Glycerin C) Resil SP 00,70 Sodium Polyacrylate D) Ethylic Alcool denat.d ,00 Alcohol Frescolat LM (2) 0,50 Menthyl Lactate Perfume 00,20 Parfum Preservative 01,00 Preservative mix Appearance: semi fludi shinny fresh emulsion (1) DSM (2) Symrise

8 ORANGE ADV - info@orangeadv.it Certified Quality System UNI EN ISO 9001:2000 Cosmetic Ingredients Via G. Pastore, Trezzo sull Adda (MI) Italy info@respharma.com