Healthy Hair. Jennifer Marsh John Gray Antonella Tosti

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1 Healthy Hair Jennifer Marsh John Gray Antonella Tosti 123

2 Healthy Hair

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4 Jennifer Marsh John Gray Antonella Tosti Healthy Hair

5 Jennifer Marsh The Procter & Gamble Company Mason, OH, USA John Gray Winston Park, Gillitts, South Africa Antonella Tosti Department of Dermatology and Cutaneous Surgery University of Miami Leonard M. Miller School of Medicine Miami, FL, USA ISBN DOI / ISBN (ebook) Library of Congress Control Number: Springer Cham Heidelberg New York Dordrecht London Springer International Publishing Switzerland 2015 This work is subject to copyright. All rights are reserved by the Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publication does not imply, even in the absence of a specific statement, that such names are exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use. The publisher, the authors and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, express or implied, with respect to the material contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made. Printed on acid-free paper Springer International Publishing AG Switzerland is part of Springer Science+Business Media (

6 Foreword Beware of her fair hair, for she excels all women in the magic of her locks; And when she winds them round a young man s neck, She will not ever set him free again. Goethe Fig. 1 More time and effort is spent on the bride s hair than perhaps on any other day of her life. Healthy hair sends a powerful message of youth and health. In this case from both parties v

7 vi Foreword Hair is one of nature s survivors and although technically dead, one of the most resilient. The visible hair shaft appears very simple, but the mechanism to create it, the hair follicle deep in the skin, is one of the most complex biological systems nature has devised. Hair first arrived on the evolutionary scene some 310 million years ago on reptilian-like animals. It preceded and survived the rise and extinction of the dinosaurs and emerged as the dominant skin appendage of mammals. As part of this class, modern humans have inherited skin which although bearing several million hair follicles have largely confined growing hair to the scalp. Caring for hair is entirely consistent with mammalian grooming which enhances appearance and subconsciously imparts status, health, physical attractiveness and, perhaps less romantically, helps remove parasites. Hair care is an (almost) ubiquitous human habit in the twenty-first century and is driven by conscious as well as subconscious social and evolutionary pressures. The varied appearance of human hair type can be explained by genetic inheritance (genotype) in association with adaptive consequences to the environment and sexual selection that occurred after modern humans spread out from their origins in Africa some 70 90,000 years ago. These differences now play an important role in determining grooming habits and the type of hair-care products women use as part of their grooming ritual. Why then a book devoted to the topic of healthy hair and hair-care cosmetics? In an age of celebrity where the outward manifestation, be it conforming or renegade, is ever more socially important in most human societies, the health and hence appearance of scalp hair should be of importance. Research [1] illustrates the importance of the symbiosis of healthy hair framing a healthy face. However, self-inflicted damage to hair through a constant desire to improve or change nature has led to an unprecedented epidemic of cosmetic hair damage and is THE most common hair issue to affect women. Improving the understanding of the causes of hair damage and assisting in the correct selection and application of cosmetic hair-care products are our mission. It is to the dispersal of this knowledge we devote this publication with the earnest hope that it will touch lives and improve quality of life for millions of women. Reference 1. Gray, J. International Congress & Symposium Series 266_Assessment of hair quality using eye-tracking technology. London: RSM Press Mason, OH, USA Winston Park, Gillitts, South Africa Miami, FL, USA Jennifer Marsh John Gray Antonella Tosti

8 Acknowledgements The author Jennifer Marsh would like to acknowledge my coauthors of the book, Dr John Gray and Antonella Tosti, for their tremendous support and also for making the process a fun one. Also thanks to Procter & Gamble for allowing me to follow my passions for fundamental science and understanding hair health and bring that experience to the readers of this book. Finally, to my husband for always being there every step of the way. The author John Gray would like to acknowledge coauthors Professor Antonella Tosti for her tremendous knowledge, energy, and unflagging support over many years. Dr Jennifer Marsh for her unsurpassed technical expertise in all things relating to the hair shaft and hair care technologies. The remarkable Research and Development scientists of Procter & Gamble for their inestimable support and advice and the members of the Pantene Hair Research Institute for their inspiration to attempt this publication. To Glynis Richards. Stylist in Durban, South Africa, for sharing her tremendous talent and knowledge and her help in developing practical advice in styling. Tina Beckbessinger one of our two guinea pig models: an example of willpower and triumph over a life-threatening condition requiring a heart/ lung transplant. To my long suffering and dear wife for her love, support, and participation as our other guinea pig model. Finally, to all those ladies on the streets of the world whose photographs populate this publication in the hope that it will bring understanding of the route to HEALTHY HAIR. The author Antonella Tosti is so happy to have been involved in this project! Thanks Jennifer and John, it was so interesting to share a project with scientists with a common interest but a different approach and knowledge. Thanks to my husband Luca and my children Lorenzo e Margherita who always support me. vii

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10 Contents 1 Healthy Hair: Form and Function... 1 Hair Human Hair and the Follicle... 1 The Hair Cycle Hair: The Cosmetic Aspects The Terminal Hair Shaft The Cuticle The Cortex The Medulla Abnormal Hairs Hair Diameter and Texture Hair Types Phenotype and Hair Health Classification of Hair Phenotypes Sub-Equatorial African Hair Australasian Hair East Asian Straight Hair Indo-European/Continental European Hair Hair Phenotypes in the Americas Developments of Human Hair Differences Evolutionary Advantages of Straight and Curly Hair Hair Color Gray Hair The Physical Properties of Hair Porosity Elasticity Static Electricity Texture Reference Further Reading Root-to-Tip Hair Health Introduction Healthy Hair Women s Perception of Hair Health Sign 1: Shine Shine Summary ix

11 x Contents Sign 2: Absence of Split Ends/Damaged Tips Sign 3: Smoothness/Frizz-Free Sign 4: Volume Sign 5: No Breakage/Strength References Understanding Hair Damage Introduction: The Hair Mass Hair in Time and Space The Process of Weathering Sources of Damage The Record of the Hair Causes of Hair Damage Hair Damage: Women s Perspective Women s Perception of Causes of Damage Global Perspective Summary Psychological Consequences of Unhealthy Hair Bad Hair Day Study Hair and Face as Social Signals Experimental Evidence of Root-to-Tip Hair Damage Damage Insults Specific Forms of Damage Physical Processes Environmental Processes Heat Processes Chemical Treatments Minimising Damage General Principles References Healthy Hair Method Assessments Introduction Multiple Strategies to Assess Hair Health Strategy 1: Assessment of Hair (Self or Observer) Strategy 2: Single Fibre Mechanical Properties Strategy 3: Structural Property Measures Summary References Clinical Signs of Hair Damage Introduction Symptoms of Hair Damage Hair Breakage Clinical Presentation Depending on Causes Clinical Presentation Depending on Ethnicity Diagnosis Hair Knotting, Tangling, and Matting Changes in the Hair Colour References

12 Contents xi 6 Hair Density Reduction Introduction Acute Telogen Effluvium Chronic Telogen Effluvium Diffuse Alopecia Anagen Effluvium Patterned Alopecia (Androgenetic Alopecia) Alopecia Areata References Cosmetic Products and Hair Health Introduction The History of Hair Care and Hair- Care Products Hair-Care Regimens History of Regimens for Different Hair Types Hair-Care Products for Different Hair Needs Shampoos Modern Shampoo Formulations Key Ingredients of Shampoos Conditioners Conditioning Products in Ethnic Usage Oil Inclusion in Conditioning Products Key Ingredients of Conditioners Ethnic and Cultural Differences in Conditioning Preferences How to Select the Correct Hair-Care Regimen Practical Aspects of Hair Care Cleansing (Shampooing) Step by Step: Shampooing General Tips Step by Step: Conditioning General Tips Summary Styling and Hair Health Styling Problems Styling Products Hairspray Mousse Hair Gels/Waxes/Pomades Tips for Healthy Styling Index

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14 Abbreviations BKT EMG HMI KAPs RH ROS SEM TAS TEM Brazilian keratin treatments Electron micrograph Hair mass index Keratin-associated proteins Relative humidity Reactive oxygen species Scanning electron microscope Terminal amino silicones Transmission electron microscopy xiii

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