Crème Lightening System
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1 After Before During (U.S. Patent No. 5,224,964) Crème Lightening System Lightening, Brightening & Toning in a single step
2 INTRODUCTION Farouk Shami You are an Artist and hair is your canvas! Sunglitz is a new innovation to duplicate the Sun s action for lightening and toning hair in various shades and tonal values in a one step process. Adding and subtracting various shades creates multi-dimensional effects enhancing modern hair cuts and designs. I am honored and proud to introduce the Sunglitz Lightening System to hair artists in the world which is one of my contributions to the professional beauty industry that we all love and adore. Sunglitz was my first patent (U.S. Patent (NO. 5,224,964) as a hair colorist which was followed by Silk Therapy and later by CHI Colors and CHI Tools. Farouk Systems, that I started, is still the only company of hairdressers for hairdressers in the professional beauty industry. I believe that you deserve a safe, faster and more artistic system to meet the demands of today s clients. I am happy to share my passion and dedication of over 40 years of beauty. Our commitment with Farouk Systems Group, Inc. has always been and will always be Environment Education Ethics with Advanced American Technology. Farouk Shami Hair Color Artist, Chairman and Founder of Farouk Systems, Inc. Pg. 2
3 Sunglitz Lightening System Features and Benefits Multidimensional Highlights Sunglitz selectively subtracts color pigments from the hair just like the sun Brightens and enhances the tones Creates incredible multi-dimensional highlights with shine and reflection Advanced American Technology 100% ammonia free formula with pleasant fragrance Gentle on hair and safer Oil base for smooth applications with silk and botanicals to condition the hair Triple Service: Hair can be permed and colored on the same day* * Only with Farouk Systems Colors, Lighteners and Texture Products Lightening and Toning in a Single Step 1-8 levels of Lightening and predictable toning in a single step 7 pre-mixed colors or create your own customized formulas Choose your tone from: Ash, Beige, Mocha, Golden Tones to Strawberry For all lightening techniques (Speed Weaving Cap, Foiling, Full Head) Oil Crème Lighteners & Toners Brighteners & Toners 4 Easy Step for Lightening Step 1: Determine Natural (Tinted) Level You Are Starting From Step 2: Determine Desired Level of Lift Step 3: Determine the Tone Desired Step 4: Determine the Volume of Developer Needed Pg. 3
4 Sunglitz Lightening Systems Sunglitz Lighteners/Toners 7 pre-mixed ammonia free crème lighteners 1-8 levels of lightening and toning in single step COOL NEUTRAL WARM NATURAL BLACK Blue/Green Blue/ Violet Neutral Blonde Yellow/Green Red/Orange Natural Blonde Black Sunglitz Color Brighteners/Toners Creates multitude of tones and hues when painted over Sunglitz Lighteners To create customized lightening mixtures Excellent for fast tonal color corrections COOL NEUTRAL WARM NATURAL BLACK Blue/Green Blue/ Violet Neutral Blonde Yellow/Green Red/Orange White Black To enhance Warm tones and to cancel Cool tones Warm Color Brighteners/Toners (Strawberry and Gold) To enhance Cool tones and to cancel Warm tones Cool Sunglitz Color Brighteners/Toners (Ash & Beige) Color Energy Developer Buffered and stabilized crème developer Consistent and uniform lightening results Fortified with silk Pg. 4
5 Formulating FORMULATING There is no guesswork with complicated formulations when using Sunglitz Lightening System because formulating is just following the Four Easy Steps. Always strand test prior to any application/procedure. 4 Easy Steps for Lightening Step 1: Determine Natural (Tinted) Level You Are Starting From Step 2: Determine Desired Level of Lift Step 3: Determine the Tone Desired Step 4: Determine the Volume of Developer Needed Step1: Determine the Natural (or Tinted) Level You Are Starting From Consider the effects of condition, texture, porosity and previous chemical services Step 2: Determine Desired Level of Lift Determine how many levels you wish to lift. From 1 up to 8 levels Step 3: Determine the Tone Desired Cool: Beige or Ash Neutral: Mocha Warm: Gold or Strawberry Remember: Sunglitz Lighteners are already pre-mixed (primary and secondary) so there is no need to mix 2 Sunglitz Lighteners. STEP 4: Determine the Volume of Developer Needed Developer Volume Lifting Action 10 Volume 20 Volume Up to 1-2 levels Up to 3-4 levels Color Energy Full head* Off the scalp * 1/8 inch away 30 Volume Up to 5-6 levels 30 & 40 vol. Color Energy Only off the scalp 40 Volume Up to 7-8 levels Pg. 5
6 Sunglitz Lightening Systems Timing with Sunglitz Lighteners For relaxed, chemically straightened, permed and overly processed hair, see page 14 To Lift Color Energy Timing with low heat Timing without heat 1-2 Levels 10 vol. No heat needed 1-5 min. Up to 5 min at room temp 10 min. 3-4 Levels 20 vol. 15 min. 30 min. Up to 10 min under low heat + Up to 15 min at room temp Up to 30 min at room temp 15 min. 5-6 Levels 30 vol. 20 min. 40 min. Up to 15 min under low heat + Up to 20 min at room temp Up to 40 min at room temp 7-8 Levels 40 vol. 20 min. 30 min. 50 min. Up to 20 min under low heat + Up to 30 min at room temp Up to 50 min at room temp Processing time is always approximate and will vary depending on texture, condition, porosity and amount of low heat applied. your professional judgment. Process under a low heat dryer or at room temperature. Never on hot temperature. Check constantly the amount of lift and condition of the hair by using water Spray product completely off the hair strand and towel dry. Check hair every 2-3 minutes until desired results are achieved. When processing under a low heat dryer, always allow the hair to cool for at least 5 minutes prior to rinsing. This will allow the cuticle to contract. Tinted/colored hair can take 1-10 minutes longer to process depending on hair color level. Do not use heat on relaxed hair (see pg. 14) Relaxed hair can be processed in 1-3 minutes Timing with Low Heat or at Room Temperature Low heat Normal Coarse Resistant Lifting on darker levels/ Lifting more than 3 levels Tinted (requires longer processing time) Room Temperature Porous Fine When achieving reddish tones Lifting on lighter levels / Lifting less than 2-3 levels Relaxed, permed or chemically straightened Pg. 6
7 Tones Recommendation Chart COOL NEUTRAL WARM Hair Level 9 : Light Blonde 10 vol. 10 vol. 10 vol. 10 vol. 10 vol. 8 : Medium Blonde 7 : Dark Blonde 6 : Light Brown 10, 20 & 30 vol. 10, 20 & 30 vol. 10, 20 & 30 vol. 10, 20 & 30 vol. 10, 20 & 30 vol. 5 : Medium Brown 4 : Dark Brown 3 : Darkest Brown 2 : Natural Black 1 : Black Remember to use Color Brighteners/Toners Custom Mixing: With Sunglitz Natural Blonde Lightener and Color Brighteners/Toners (1:1:1/2) 1 part Natural Sunglitz Lightener 1 part + Color + Energy 1/4 part Desired Color Brightener/Toner Pg. 7
8 Techniques Speed Weaving Cap Technique (Mixing 1:1) (1 part Sunglitz Lightener + 1 part Color Energy Developer) 1. Apply few drops of Sunglitz Repair & Shine into the hair and leave in. Brush the hair into direction you wish to style the hair. 2. Place Sunglitz Speed Weaving Cap on the head by first placing your left hand on the fore head and by using your right hand pull the cap snugly to the nape area. Open the wings from your speed weaving cap and tie a knot under the chin. 3. Start to pull highlights with Sunglitz Weaving hook from the nape area and work your way up 4. Start the application from the darkest part of the hair, usually nape area. Wearing gloves, apply Lightener generously to the hair to be lightened using 1/8 sub sections. Make sure all strands are covered. 5. Paint the desired Color Brighteners/Toners over your application. Push it with a Sunglitz Artist Fan Brush to penetrate through the Lightener into hair. 6. Wipe a strand clean to check the progress every 3-5 minutes. Start the timing when the application is completed. Pg. 8
9 Types Foiling Technique Mixing 1:1 1/2 (1 part Sunglitz Lightener + 1 1/2 part Color Energy Developer) Before After Painting Technique Mixing 1:1 (1 part Sunglitz Lightener + 1 part Color Energy Developer) Before After Pg. 9
10 Techniques Full Head Application Short Hair Mixing 1:1 1/2 (1part Sunglitz Lightener +1 1/2 part Color Energy Developer) 1/8 of an inch away from the scalp 1. Divide the hair in four quadrants. 2. Start the application from the darkest part of the hair, usually the nape area. Wearing gloves, apply the Sunglitz Crème Lightener mixture to the midshaft and ends first, starting ½ inch away from the root using 1/8 inch subsections. 3. Paint the desired Color Brighteners/ Toner over your application. 4. Lift the hair to allow air circulation and even oxidation. Start the timing when the application is completed. Wipe a strand clean to check the progress every 3-5 minutes. After Full Head Application on Long and Mid-Length Hair (1/8 of an inch away from the scalp using ) 1. Apply Sunglitz Crème Lightening mixture to the midshaft and ends first, starting 1/2 inch away from the root using 1/8 inch subsections. 2. Time for 15 minutes or until you see a definite color change. 3. Mix a fresh batch of Sunglitz formula. Apply it to the root area and over the mid lengths and ends again. Work the formula through to be sure all strands are covered. Stay 1/8 away from the scalp at all times. Re-touch Applications 1. Start application from the darkest part of the hair, usually the nape area. 2. Wearing gloves, apply Sunglitz Lightener mixture only to the new growth area. Avoid overlapping. Rinsing Sunglitz Lighteners Rinsing 1. Rinse thoroughly with warm water 2. Note: If using a Speed Weaving Cap, apply generous amount of Sunglitz Repair & Shine to the hair prior to removing the cap and rinsing. 3. Shampoo with appropriate Sunglitz Shampoo 4. Rinse and Gently towel dry the hair 5. Apply Sunglitz Natural SunSealer for 5 minutes 6. Rinse and towel dry 7. Apply a few drops of Repair & Shine and leave in 8. Style & recommend Home Maintenance Products Pg. 10
11 Sunglitz on Permed, Chemically Staightened, Relaxed & Overly Processed Hair Sunglitz on Relaxed, Chemically Straightened, Overly Pressed and Permed Hair Sunglitz Crème Lighteners are ideal to lighten relaxed, straightened, overly processed and permed hair. When following the instructions they will provide excellent results. Relaxed, straightened, permed and overly processed hair always requires a preliminary strand test prior to application! When doing service, always consider the following: Previous chemical services, Condition, Porosity and Elasticity Hair that has been Permed, Chemically straightened (thio based products), Relaxed (sodium/calcium hydroxide based products) and/or Overly Processed hair have become more porous than unprocessed hair and requires a ph Balancing Service (lowering the ph of the hair prior to application) ph Balancing Service Shampoo the hair with Sunglitz Natural Enhancement Shampoo and rinse Towel dry the hair! Apply Generous amount of Sunglitz Moisture & Shine Intense Conditioner and leave it on for 5 minutes Rinse and towel dry the hair Apply Sunglitz Sunsealer Daily Conditioner for 5 minutes and rinse Apply generous amount of Sunglitz Repair & Shine and leave in Place the hair under a dryer or blow dry it Only use when working on... Permed Chemically straightened (thio based products) Relaxed (sodium/calcium hydroxide based products) Overly Processed Timing with Sunglitz Crème Lighteners on Relaxed, Straightened, Overly Processed and Permed hair To Lift Color Energy Timing at Room Temperature 1-2 Levels 3-4 Levels 10 volume Mixing Ratio 1:1 1/2 (Mix 1 part Sunglitz Lightener + 1 1/2 parts Color Energy Developer 1-5 min. Up to 1-5 min at room temp 5-10 min. 20 volume Up to 5-10 min at room temp DO NOT USE HEAT ON RELAXED HAIR! Relaxed hair can process in 1-3 minutes. Check the amount of lift and condition constantly Using water, spray product completely off the hair strand and towel dry Tinted/colored hair takes 1-10 minutes longer to process Processing time is always approximate and will vary depending on texture, condition and porosity. your professional judgment. Pg. 11
12 SunGlaze Service SunGlaze Service Enhance, refresh or brighten any hair color (natural or tinted) To enhance Warm tones and to neutralize Cool tones Warm Sunglitz Lighteners (Strawberry and Gold) To enhance Cool tones and to neutralize Warm tones Cool Sunglitz Lighteners (Ash & Beige) To neutralize unwanted tones Determine the tone you wish to cancel and choose the opposite Sunglitz Lightener of the color you wish to cancel. Remember: Sunglitz Lighteners are already pre-mixed (primary and secondary) so in most cases there is no need to intermix them. To remove product build up Sunglitz Natural Blonde Cream Lightener SunGlaze Mixing, Application and Timing SunGlaze Mixture (1:1:1) Mix in a clean plastic bowl 1 part desired Sunglitz Lightener* 1 part 10 vol.** Color Energy 1 part Color Brightener/Toner Application Rinse the hair with warm water Shampoo the hair with your SunGlaze mixture Do not apply your mixture directly to the scalp Timing 1 minute to 5 minutes Constantly check the results Note: Processing is always faster on lighter hair than on darker hair When desired effect is achieved: rinse, shampoo, towel dry and condition. If desired results are not achieved, rinse and after successful strand test reapply. Pg. 12
13 Hair Color Removal Hair Color Removal Removing Color with Cool Blonde Sunglitz Cream Lightener Cool Blonde Sunglitz Cream Lightener is an ideal product to remove old colors from the hair. It s black color removes all color tones collectively from the hair. In all cases strand test the hair prior to application. Preparations Determine client s darkest tinted level(s) and tone(s) and previous chemical services. Determine the condition and porosity of the hair. Determine all previous color services and the quantity and the types of color service(s). (Semi, Demi, Permanent, High Lift Color, Direct Dyes) If hair has been relaxed or colored with coating colors, metallic dyes, henna or any type of color service that you can not identify, do not perform the service. Determine desired level of lift and tonal value. Hair Color Removal Mixing: (1: 1 ½) + 1 part Cool Blonde Sunglitz Lightener* 1 ½ Parts Color Energy 1. Start the application from the darkest area where you have most of the color build up. 2. Wearing gloves, apply Lightener generously surrounding the hair to be lightened using 1/8 sub-sections. Make sure all strands are covered. Stay 1/8 away from the scalp all the time. 3. Constantly check the progress (1-5 minutes) by wiping a strand clean Timing See the page 7 Note: If desired results are not achieved, rinse and after successful strand test reapply. Pg. 13
14 Maintenance Home Maintenance Proper homecare products are an essential part of maintaining the condition, clarity and shine of your Sunglitz highlights. They are ideal for both professional use and home maintenance. As professional hair color artists, always recommend correct Farouk Systems homecare products. Sunglitz Color Enhancing Shampoos ph 5,9-6.7 Specifically formulated for highlighted and colored hair with gentle cleansing action Maintains and protects hair color service between salon visits Removes any mineral build up from the hair Enhances tones and shine Conditioning agents will strengthen the hair and maintain proper moisture balance Fortified with natural silk leaving the hair tangle free Shampoo Ideal for: Cool blondes Cool browns Neutralizes red/orange tones Shampoo Ideal for: Cool blondes Neutralizes yellow tones Shampoo Ideal for: All browns/blondes Enhances chocolate and caramel tones Shampoo Ideal for: Warm blondes/browns Enhances sun kissed tones Neutralizes cool tones Shampoo Ideal for: Blonde, brown & red hair Enhances rich warm red tones Neutralizes cool tones Natural Enhancement Shampoo Ideal for: all tones Sunglitz Natural SunSealer Daily Conditioner- ph Locks in moisture balance Increases resilience Contains blends of natural herbs and vinegar to seal and tighten the cuticle layer Excellent detangler Leaves the hair incredibly soft and shiny Sunglitz Natural SunSealer - Daily Conditioner Sunglitz Moisture & Shine Intense Conditioner - ph Daily conditioner to reconstruct and restore moisture Contains silk protein fibers to link hair fibers together Improves both the strength and the elasticity of the hair Adds thickness, body and volume without adding any weight Sunglitz Moisture & Shine - Intense Conditioner Sunglitz Repair & Shine Silk Leave-In Treatment - no ph Repairs damaged hair, split ends, and eliminates frizz Restores silky suppleness to dull or dry hair Eliminates static flyaway without any added weight Produces an instant shine and magnificent reflection Provides protection against environmental stress (UV) Sunglitz Repair & Shine - Silk Leave-In Treatment Pg. 14
15 Info Standard tests Preliminary test Even if your client has been lightening their hair for some time, sometimes allergies can suddenly develop or worsen. In some cases, the allergic reaction can be serious. In order to be safe, an allergy test must be performed 48 hours prior to each and every application, due to the fact that some people are allergic to hair color products. 1. Wash a small area on the inside of your clients forearm with soap and water. Pat dry with absorbent cotton. 2. Mix 1 part of desired lightener (or mixture of lighteners) with equal part of appropriate Color Energy. 3. Apply formula to the inside of forearm using cotton swab and let it dry. 4. Do not wash, do not cover or disturb for 48 hours. 5. Examine test area periodically over 48 hours. If no reaction occurred, proceed with hair lightening. 6. IMPORTANT: (a) DO NOT USE lighteners if any of these warning signs appear at or around the test area or any place the product has come into contact with the skin at any time up to a few days after application: redness, burning, itching, swelling, skin abrasions, eruptions or irritations. (b) IMMEDIATE REACTIONS: if any reactions occur (including breathing problems, tightening of the chest, heart palpitations, lightheadedness, itching, flushing, bumps or swelling) away from the place the product has come into contact with the skin, during or shortly after application of the allergy test or while using the product, rinse immediately with lukewarm water. Discontinue use and obtain medical attention immediately. Alert the client not to use this or any other hair color product again until after consulting a physician. Cautions Please read the Sunglitz manual thoroughly and attend a Sunglitz class before attempting to use Sunglitz System. Sunglitz System is only for Licensed Cosmetologist. Do not use if scalp is irritated, abraded or injured in any way. Do not use if the hair shows any sign of breakage or damage. Do not use 30 and 40 vol. Color Energy for full head applications, relaxed, chemically straightened, permed or overly processed hair. Do not apply the product against the scalp. Stay 1/8 away from the scalp at all the times. Do not use Sunglitz Lighteners if the hair has been colored previously with coating colors, metallic dyes, henna or any type of hair color that you cannot identify. Do not over lap over previously lightened hair. If necessary, use only low heat, never hot, and always allow the hair to cool down at least 5 min. prior to rinsing. ALWAYS STRAND TEST PRIOR TO ANY APPLICATION. 1. Mix the desired Sunglitz Lightener formula. 2. Apply from the roots to ends on a strand large enough to view results. 3. Time it following the instructions, rinse hair thoroughly and dry. 4. Analyze the results: If the strand test shows any breakage or any other signs of damage, do not use the products until the hair has been reconstructed and re-tested. Always follow the formulation charts, timing & mixing for predictable results. Analyze scalp, hair structure and influencing factors. Always use your professional judgment. Do not use on eyelashes or eyebrows. Doing so may cause blindness. If product or mixture accidentally gets into eyes, rinse promptly and repeatedly with cool water and seek medical attention. If client wears contact lenses, they should remove before rinsing with water. Do not apply to children. Keep all hair color products out of reach of children. Protective gloves must be worn all the time when opening, mixing, closing or handling in anyway Sunglitz Lighteners and Color Energy. Questions? Call the Farouk Systems, Inc Hotline: Tel: Monday - Friday: 8.00 AM PM (Central Standard Time) Saturday AM PM (Central Standard Time) For more information refer to the Sunglitz manual and DVD Pg. 15
16 Before During After Yellow/ Green Tertiary Yellow Primary Orange/ Yellow Tertiary Green Secondary Orange Secondary Blue/ Green Tertiary Mocha Red / Orange Tertiary Blue Primary Red Tertiary Blue/ Violet Tertiary Violet Secondary Red / Violet Tertiary for more information contact your Farouk Systems Distributor or call Farouk Systems, Inc Houston, TX Visit our website at
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