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2 Book Index : 2- Index 3 Light and Color 5- The Colorimetry 5- The Primary and Secondary Colors 6- The Oswald Star 7- The Newton Disk 8- The Coloring 8- Temporary Color 9- The Semi-Permanent Color 9- Permanent Coloring Oxidation 9- Not Lightening 10- Brightening 10- The Natural Hair Color 11- The Action Mechanism 11 The Alkaline Substances 11- The Oxidant Substances 12- The Classification Methods 12- Tone Height 12- The Reflection 13- The Client Diagnosis 13 technical Diagnosis 14 Recommendations 15 Personal Color Hair Color Cream 16 Traditional Coloring 17 Semi-Permanent Coloring 17 Personal Color Oxidizing Emulsion 18 Selection of personal Color in presence of white hair 19 The Re-pigmentation 19 When Re-pigment? 19 How to Re-pigment? 20 Procedure 21 Direct Color Personal Color 22 Anti Yellow Shampoo 23 Coloring and Dekaping 24- Personal Color Personal Dekap 25 Personal Color Blue Bleaching Powder 26- Personal Color Selection Table 27 Personal Color Bleaching Cream 29 Color Foam Treatment 30 Color Jelly Treatment 2

3 LIGHT AND COLOUR! The sun is a form of energy that spreads in a wide range of electromagnetic radiation (or waves) that arrive unto us. The radiation lamp or white light is the part of this radiation perceptible to the human eye (the visible band from 380 to 780 nm.) Every object struck by the light behaves like a mirror, reflecting all or part of the light from which is struck. If the object reflects all the light, the eye sees white, but if it absorbs it, it sees black. Therefore: White is a reflective color. Black is an absorbing color. Between these two extremes, depending on the proportion between the amount of light reflected and absorbed, the eye perceives the various colors and their intensity. You could say that the color itself does not exist, but it is a physiological sensation resulting from the different amount of reflected light that is capable of stimulating the human retina. 3

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5 The Colorimetry The Colorimetry is the science which studies the color, it defines the sizes and the measures. There are general rules on the coloration. The primary and secondary colors The 3 primary colors are: Combining primary colors together you get a secondary color opposite to the primary color remained. By varying the proportions between the two primary colors, the intensity of the color obtained will vary as well. Star of Oswald It allows to highlight: The primary colors and those obtained with the different mixing The capacity of each color to neutralize another color: the secondary colors are opposed to the primary colors that are not involved in their making ( and vice versa). Example: 5

6 Basically the colors: Auburn Red Golden Auburn Red (x,4-x,43-x,6) neutralize the Natural Ash ( x,01) and vice versa. Golden (x,3) neutralize the Irisè (x,2) and vice versa. ½ Ash (x,1)+- Golden ( x,3) neutralize the Mahogany (x,5) and vice versa. OSWALD STAR 6

7 Newton Disk It allows to represent on a disk the full range of colors Personal Color depending on the intensity and nuance of color. 7

8 THE COLORING The Hairdresser has coloring product at his disposal, which allow to satisfy the client requests: Cover the white hair Lighten the hair Give the hair a different reflection The coloring can be classified according to the final result in four types of color, each of which use different products. TEMPORARY COLOR It s so called because its life on the hair is short and can not resist the action of the shampoo. The action mechanism of this class of products is very simple: the coloring molecules settle on the outside of the hair with chemical bonds and the resin support suitable to the coloration, with a good affinity to keratin, create a consistent film oon the utside of the hair. Does not cover gray hair Does not lightens Gives a light reflection that get removed at the first shampoo (water soluble) -The products are generally liquid or foam (vials or colorants foam) -Do not need hydrogen peroxide 8

9 THE SEMI-PERMANENT COLOR Covers white hair, as long as present at levels below then 30/35% Does not lighten Gives a resistant reflection to 5/8 shampoo PERMANENT COLORING OXIDATION It s a coloring that can transform permanently the natural color of the hair or keep the same tone with a tendency of different reflex. NOT LIGHTENING It s a specific treatment for immediate pigmentation and repigmentation, full of pure pigments that uniform perfectly lengths, faded and porous ends. 9

10 BRIGHTENING It contains alkalines substances (ammonia) It covers up to 100% of white hair It can lighten the natural color of 2/3 tones and over in super-brightening It can give a strong and permanent reflection over the time. The product is in cream, mix it with hydrogen peroxide, apply with a brush and leave it develop for 30 to 45 minutes (depending on the percentage of white hair and the desired result), then rinse. THE NATURAL HAIR COLOR The natural hair color changes with time. This is because with age it changes the production and distribution of melanin and, therefore, the natural color will darken and at the same time the first white hair start to appear. The production of melanin in the upper part of the bulb, depends on the individual genetic and physiological nature. The real hair color is decided: a) By the type of melanin Eumelanin = granular pigment, with hues from red to deep black, are more present in darker hair. Feomelanin = pigment diffused with hues from pale yellow to red, are present in light hair. b) By the quality and distribution of melanin determine the degree and intensity of color. The white hair is completely without melanin. 10

11 THE ACTION MECHANISM Oxidation coloring acts simultaneously in two ways, lightens and color the hair. There are three basic elements that make it possible: The coloring substances (or color precursors) The alkaline substances (ammonia) The oxidants substances (peroxide) The coloring substances may be classified into two categories: - The bases (for example, diaminobenzeni or parafenilendiamina ) that are responsible for the intensity of color and coverage of white hair. - The Copulate (for example the resorcinol) that allows the variation of reflection. These substances are not colored, but interact with each other to create the color and are activated through a chemical reaction. The coloring substances, thanks to the small size of their molecules, penetrate into the hair and thanks to the oxygen (hydrogen peroxide) develop the color. This are composed from bigger molecules that react with the hair proteins, remained blocked into the keratin hair fiber and this explains the good stability and the excellent coverage of white hair, shampoo after shampoo. The alkaline substances The Ammonia is an inorganic gas that plays two very important actions during the coloring and oxidation: Opens the hair scales to allow the penetration of the coloring substances. The ph alkaline (ammonia) can swell the hair and open the scales. Frees the oxygen contained in the peroxide and accelerates the lightening action. Evaporates during the developing time and does not remain in the hair. The oxidant substances Operate on natural pigments Oxidize the coloring substances, generating artificial pigments. Meanwhile the coloring action, the oxygen (hydrogen peroxide) melting in part the natural melanin of the hair, allows a lightening action, namely the lowering of the hair natural color. Oxidation occurs when we combine colors (color tube) with oxidizing substances. 11

12 THE CLASSIFICATION METHODS As a general rule, personal color refers to an international numbering which describes the starting color from black to platinum blond clear. Number before the comma First number after the comma Second number after the comma = Tone Height = Dominant Reflection = Secondary Reflection Tone Height To classify the height of the tone (color intensity) of the hair, it has to be used the following scale: (from the darkest to the lightest) 1, Black 2,Brown 3,Dark chestnut 4,Chestnut 5, Light chestnut 6,Dark blond 7, Blond 8, Light blond 9, Very Light blond 10,Very Light blond platinum 11, Super lighteners The Reflection To highlight the type of reflection, is followed by the number that defines the height of tone a second number, separated by a comma. X,0 Natural X,1 Ash X,2 Irisè X,3 Golden X,4 Copper X,5 Mahogany X,6 Red X,10 Blue How to read examples : 6,0 = Dark blond 6,01 = Ash natural dark blond 6,3 = Dark golden blond When there are two reflections at the same time, the first takes precedence over the second: 6,43 = Dark blond golden copper (prevails golden reflection) 6,34= Golden copper dark blond (prevails the golden reflection toward copper) Doubling the number results in a more intense reflection: 7,4 = Auburn blond 7,44 = Intense auburn blond 12

13 The client diagnosis Before proceeding with the technical report, it must be made the client diagnosis. This step is necessary for the success of any color service. Here are some examples of questions to be discussed with each client that want the color service: How the client imagines the final result through the color chart. Evaluate whether or not the result is reachable. Provide all chemical information on products. Ascertain how the client intends to maintain the color over the time. Preliminary sensitivity tests Technical diagnosis The technical report of the state of the hair is an important element for the success of any coloring. Through a good diagnosis, we can collect all the information necessary to achieve a good color service. The information to obtain are: a) The nature of the hair There are a hair more or less thick depending on the genetic and physiological character. Thick hair are difficult to be coloured, so in some cases is necessary to perform a mordant. The contrary is for the thin hair which are generally porous. This can be easily colored and absorb the color much better than the non-porous hair. b) The natural color Is necessary to determinate the natural color of the client. This allows to choose the right shade/nuances and the peroxide to reach the desired result. c) The percentage of white hair at the front of the head Allows to: Choose the peroxide and the personal color for the final color uniformity. Predict the appropriate time that the color should be on the hair Evaluate if the mordant is necessary The rules is to use the peroxide 20 vol to obtain a good cover. d) The height of tone lengths and tips Allows to choose the appropriate nuances and peroxide to achieve the desired color. e) The height of the desired color tone Establish the application method Allows to choose the tone intensity and reflex desired by the client. Choose the necessary oxygen (peroxide) 13

14 For a complete diagnosis we recommend the below form for each color service. Personal Color TECHNIVAL DIAGNOSTIC IN SALON DATE: STYLIST: Product information N Color Applied: Dilution ratio: grams = Peroxide volume: grams = Application time on the roots : with heat source: without heat source: Application time on the lengths: with heat source: without heat source: Heat source used: Total time: Shampo oused: Client Information Name: Phone: Natural Color N (height of tone roots): Artificial Color N (color on the remaining lengths): Result to be achieved: Percentage of white hair: Forehead few (0-50%) medium (50-70%) many (70-100%) Neck: few (0-50%) medium (50-70%) many (70-100%) Effected services: none permanent-highlights-straighten semi permanent color - permanent color Hair nature: resistant normal porous Hair diameter: thick normal thin Hair status: shiny fat dry natural wavy split ends vitreous 14

15 Research, technology, innovation for the beauty of the hair.simply.. Our Products entrusted to the technical and styling abilities of the Hairdressers PERSONAL COLOR HAIR COLOR CREAM Personal Color hair color cream is a system of oxidation coloring in cream, which offers a wide range of 120 nuances/shades. Unlike other conventional coloration, Personal Color has an organic basis, its formulation with low ammonia content is enriched with natural active ingredients like honey, sunflower oil and beeswax. A real beauty treatment for your hair. Its soft texture allows an optimal adhesion of the colored pigments on the capillary keratin structure. Also make use of high quality pigments that set the color ensuring the total coverage of white hair. Personal Hair color cream, need to be mixed with OXIDIZING EMULSION CREAM volumes, depending on the required results. The Oxidizing Emulsion Cream is a cream based stabilized oxidant, enriched with moisturizing protective substances. Its low ph guarantees a perfect balance with coloring and bleaching colors. 15

16 Research, Technology, Innovation for your hair beauty Multifunctional color created to satisfy every coloring demand in harmony with nature; high cosmetic effect and hydration- endless brightness 16

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18 Selection of Personal Color in the presence of white hair Knowing the percentage and type of white hair allows to: Choose the oxygen and the Personal Color to conform the final color Predict a longer develop time Mordant in case of glassy hair Personal Color is calibrated for a percentage of white hair by 70% This precious indication allows to choose the color Personal Color to apply depending on the percentage of white hair found. 1. The percentage of white hair is less than 50% Choose the color Personal Color of a lighter tone of the desired color Example: Desired tone 5 (light chestnut), 30% of white hair. Apply a 6 (dark blond ) with oxygen 20 or 30 volumes. 2. The percentage of white hair is from 50% to 70% Choose the color Personal Color of the same tone of the one desired Example: Desired tone 5 (light chestnut), 70% of white hair. Apply the 5 (light chestnut) with personal color volumes 3. The percentage of white hair is higher than 70% Choose the color Personal Color one darker tone to the color desired Example: Desired tone 5 (light chestnut), 100% white hair. Apply the 4 (chestnut) with Personal Color 20 or 30 volumes. Bear in mind the general rule: Is essential to use at least the oxygen 10 volume in order to cover white hair. 18

19 The repigmentation (or prepigmentation) The prepigmentation brings to the hair some pigments to obtain the base of the desired color. Is recommended to use hot shades (color with golden reflections, copper) When repigment? The prepigmentatoin is the technic used when: Darken three or more tones an already colored hair Coloring much exploited hair (for example over-bleached, with meches or bleached) Avoid the ash toning How to repigment? In bleached hair the missing tone are the hot pigments. Is necessary to add back these tones before coloring the hair, doing so the color will absorbed uniformly without getting tone off or too ash tone (choose the color Personal Color in golden tone (x.3) copper (x.4) gold copper (x.34) In the simplest cases can be chosen a lighter tone shade of what is going to be applied as a final color. It blends the color with a bit of water to obtain a easy cream to use and apply with a brush on the lengths and roots. (generally those most exploited). A the same time is necessary to massage with fingers, protected by gloves, in order to help the maximum product penetration into the hair. Example: Desired color 7.0 Prepigmentate with: 80% %8.4+ water, apply afterwards 7.0 a 20 vol. roots/lengths/tips, global staying time 30 min. Desired color 6.6 Prepigmentate with: water, apply afterwards 6.6 a 20 vol. roots/lengths/tips, global staying time 30 min. NB: More the hair is porous more it refuses the warm pigments, while absorbs the colder tones ash. Healthy hair absorb the warm tones and refuse ash. Coloring with prepigmentation When the white hairs are highly concentrated at junctions (temple and forehead) Example: - natural hair color dark blond (6) halo of white hair 80% Desired result dark golden blond (6.3) 19

20 Procedure: Phase 1- Prepigmentation Apply on the white hair the pure color (directly from the tube and massage with the fingers protected by gloves) of a lighter tone than the desired color. In this case it has to be used the Medium golden blond shades/tone (7.3) Phase 2- The coloration Apply the desired color (6.3) mix it with oxygen 20 vol. directly over the prepigmentation.in this case the prepigmentation will bring on the white hair a quantity of colored pigments, which together with the normal color application, will results in the perfect coverage of the white hair. 20

21 The Direct Color Personal Color The direct color Personal Color is the temporary color, ready for use and available in 18 beautiful shades/nuances: 6 natural colors, 3 gray, 5 fashion and 4 fantasy. Its formula is enriched with pure pigments that conform perfectly faded, porous spikes, and proteins that spells out a restructuring action leaving hair strong and shiny. It is completely ammonia an metallic pigments free. Benefits It does not contain alkalines (ammonia) Mask white hair Apply tone on tone Exalts the natural color of the hair Give tone to the hair after permanent and straighten Enlivens sun shots and meches Makes hair soft and shiny How to use Personal Color Direct Color Make a correct diagnosis Determinate the hair porosity Before apply the direct color, ashampoo the hair with CS Line Frequent Shampoo Dab good the water excess Apply on the hair the CS Line ph Equalizer, in order to have a uniform porosity of hair Apply the color with a brush, being careful not to stain the skin. Leave 5 to 30 min. according to the porosity of the hair or the intensity of the color desired. Emulsify and rinse thoroughly and then do a shampoo After-Color Personal Color 21

22 Anti-Yellow Shampoo It s a revolutionary product that, thanks to its pigments, has the power to remove unwanted yellow color, which are present on the gray hair and in some cases after coloring. Thanks to its special formulation based with protein, restructure hair and makes it silky. 22

23 Coloring and dekaping The bleaching and dekaping are two techniques that allow to lighten up to 5/6 color tones The first will be applied when you want to lighten a natural color while the dekaping can lighten an artificial color. The decoloration The Personal Color allows to light from one to four tones by using directly the color with the desired oxygen. When you want to lighten more than 5 tones we need to use the Bleaching Powder Personal Color before applying the chosen color. The bleaching is carried out always on unwashed hair. You use oxygen at 20 vol for light bleaching, 30/40 vol. for stronger bleaching. Maximum posing time 25/30 minutes, after this exposure time the product loose its lightening power. If you want a more intense bleaching you must repeat the application by removing with the back of a comb the first bleaching and apply the new mixture. Never rinse between the two application to avoid blocking the lightening process. The dekaping When the customer wants to switch from one dark artificial color to a light one is necessary to use this technique because there is not possible to lighten colored hair only with the oxidation color (basic rule: color does not remove color) How to realize the dekaping Depending on the intensity of bleaching to be obtained and the technical report, done at the beginning, we can choose the mix to be applied and the posing time: Light dekaping (1 tone) eliminates color accumulation Preparation 1scoop of bleaching powder ml hot water + 10 ml of shampoo. Develop time from 5 to 20 minutes Medium dekaping (2/3 tones) Preparation 1 scoop of bleaching powder + oxygen 20/30 vol. Develop time from 20 to 30 minutes. Strong dekaping (4/5 tones) Preparation 1 scoop of bleaching powder + oxygen 40 vol. Develop time from 30 to 40 minutes How to use: apply on unwashed hair on the needed areas, when the desired bleaching is achieved, rinse, dry and apply the desired color. 23

24 Personal Dekap It s a revolutionary dekap for the full or partial correction of the cosmetic color. Its formula is enriched with natural based moisturizers and proteins Restructuring the product thus guarantees not only the removal of residues of artificial color but deeply nourishes even the driest and damaged hair. Its special gel consistency allows an easy application. Personal Dekap finally allows to make excellent bleaching without damaging the natural basis. How to use Personal Dekap In a NON metallic bowl weep part of the contents of the bottle 1, with an equal part of bottle 2. Apply the product on the hair with a brush. After the application, cover with a plastic cap and put under a heat source. The staying time varies from 5min. to 20min, based on the hair porosity and to the quantity of pigments which has to be removed. After the staying time, rinse plenty and apply a shampoo. The product is able to lighten till 3 tones. In the case an ulterior lighten is required, repeat the application on dry hair. 24

25 Personal Color Blue Bleaching Powder Personal Color Blue Bleaching Powder is a bleaching in powder, non volatile, enriched of high quality ingredients, suitable for all types of no skin bleaching. Special formula, not swell, not drip, not gasification. Ideal for any application technique. Personal Color Blue Bleaching Powder, thanks to its blue-violet pigments, is able to effect bleaching without getting unattractive orange-yellow tones. Moreover its formula enriched with moisturizing minerals fully respects the hair structure by improving their brightness. When use Personal Color Bleaching Powder For Mèchès For Sunburn To remove the artificial pigment (Dekap) How to use Personal Color Bleaching Powder Do a correct diagnosis Use the appropriate scoop which is inside the box, weep in a NON metallic bowl 1 scoop of Bleaching Powder with 2 scoop of Oxidizing Emulsion Oxidizing Emulsion 10 vol. is recommended for bleaching till 2 tones Oxidizing Emulsion 20 vol. is recommended for bleaching till 3 tones Oxidizing Emulsion 30 vol. is recommended for bleaching till 4 tones Oxidizing Emulsion 40 vol. is recommended for bleaching over 4 tones The develop time may vary depending on the hair, however after 45minutes, for an additional bleaching, remove the excess mixture with a towel and, without rinsing, apply a new mixture with an Oxidizing Emulsion below the previous used. Example: first applicator 40 vol, second application 30 vol. When the develop time is finished, thouroughly rinse and proceed with Personal Color After Color Shampoo and Conditioner. 25

26 Personal Color selection Table The Personal Color selection table allow to fill correctly the form Diagnostic technique in salon It should be used as a tool that supports the technique-color by choosing a color service properly and appropriately. Legend P Prepigmentation 10 Oxygen Oxygen 30 D Decolorization 20 Oxygen Oxygen

27 Bleaching Cream An exclusive formula to bleach all types of hair, in particular those fine and delicate. Respects the structure of the hair and does not cause phenomena of irritation on the skin. Innovative professional tool intended for hairdressers, services include: the total decolorations, mèches, highlights, light baths, etc.. want to offer to their customers a "comfortable" technical service without giving up the result of the classic bleaching. Lightening up to 5 tones does not swell, does not dry, does not release liquid allows to achieve the desired lightening in a develop time reduced compared to the norm. Active Ingredients: Potassium persulfate/ammonium persulfate, Paraffinum liquidum, Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, Hydrolyzed Silk. 27

28 Effects: Bleach acting substances, Soothing,Shining Cationic derivative of Guar gum with conditioning and restructuring action, gives shine and substantivity Moisturizing Conditioning t makes the hair shiny and easy to comb How to Use: Mixing ratio: take 30g of cream personal color and combine with 45/60g. (ml.) oxidant emulsion personal color 20/30/40 volumes according to the type of bleaching to be obtained. The dilution ratio is to be evaluated according to the degree of discoloration to obtain. Mixture: 1:2 for total bleaching of strong contact with the skin 1:1,5 for partial bleaching In particular for mèches. light bleaching: ( 1 2 bleaching tones) 20 volumes; medium bleaching: (2 4 bleaching tones) 30 volumes; strongbleaching: (4 5 bleaching tones) 40 volumes Contrasts, mèches, "highlights": (20, 30 or 40 volumes according to the type of hair and the desired result; Dekaping: 20 or 30 volumes according to the number of cosmetic tones to eliminate. The application of the product on the hair varies from a minimum of 15 to a maximum of 60 minutes. The time is conditioned by the number of tones of color to eliminate and physical conditions of the hair (natural, treated, "meched", etc.) WHY BE SATISFIED? CHOOSE THE BEST.!!!!!!!!!! 28

29 Color Foam Treatment It s an innovative system of permanent natural coloring in soft mousse, consisting of 20 wonderful shades, which gives the hair the desired color and ensures full coverage of white hair from the first application, in full respect of the scalp and capillary fibers. The ease of application, due to the particular consistency, at the end ensures adherence to the hair improving the activity of penetration of dyes and the color uniformity. Does not contain ammonia. It contains natural ingredients among which stand out: White Tea, Bamboo and vegetable proteins with nourishing, softening and soothing properties for colored hair and full of vitality. 29

30 Color Jelly Treatment It's a "revolutionary" system of direct coloring tone on tone consisting of 10 fanciful shades to unchain the imagination, all natural, particularly suitable for those who want to change the color of the hair and have a look always trendy. Its delicate formulation, free of oxidizing agents and ammonia, thanks to its particular consistency in cream adheres perfectly to the cuticle. Furthermore, the color tone on tone suits shades of the color of the hair. The Result! Farewell to the dull and standard colors. Hair full of reflections nourished in depth and soft to the touch thanks to the presence of functional substances such as: Fruit Acids, Sweet Almond Oil and Green Tea Duration: 3/4 washings To the treatment is combined a shampoo post treatment, for each nuance, acidifying product, which gently cleanses the hair restoring the proper hydration to the scalp, roots and ends. Moreover, its formula is enriched with colored pigments that brighten the color achieved. 30

31 MAJOR GROUP SRL Sede Legale: VIBO VALENTIA (VV) Zona Industriale Loc. Aeroporto 1/B Sede Amministrativa: S.S. 18 KM VENA DI JONADI (VV) C.F. e P.I Tel.0963/ Fax e- mail: postmaster@majorgroupsrl.com info@pec.majorgroupsrl.com web :