Male haircuts Parallel layers

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1 Male haircuts Parallel layers Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 1 of 24

2 Parallel layers You need to take extra care when cutting short hair and sharp, defined haircuts. The client's hairline and hair-growth patterns are more obvious and mistakes are easier to see. There are specific factors you should look out for during the client analysis stage that can have a strong influence on the way you cut men's hair and the sort of finished look you can achieve. Facial hair You need to think about which haircuts will complement your client's chosen facial hair pattern. Side burns Side burns are men's side hairlines. They can be cut into various different shapes and lengths. But it is important that they fit with the rest of your hairstyle. The shape and length of side burns change with fashion. For example, side burns were: long in the 1920s, 30s and 40s; clean and short in the 50s; long, thin and shaped in the 60s and 70s; and Gothic, angular and coloured in the 80s. Since the 1990s, clean-cut looks have been more fashionable. And older men always tend to go for classic, short-cut side burns. Ears Many people's ears are not evenly balanced. They can be very large, very small or even different sizes. And some stick out at an angle from the head. You need to watch for all these characteristics when you are cutting shorter hairstyles. You also need to know if your client wears glasses or a hearing aid. Both these will affect the finished look of your cut, particularly if you are aiming for a short, sharp look. Partings Partings can be used to produce different effects in hairstyles. For example, a central parting can divide the hair evenly and help to make a heavy head or thick hair appear more balanced. Side partings can be used to draw the eye away from prominent features such as a large nose or uneven ears. Fashion can also affect the way you use partings. Some natural partings can be very well defined and it is often necessary to work with them rather than imposing new partings. During your client consultation, before you start cutting, you should establish the pattern and strength of your client's natural parting. This may determine the finished look you are able to achieve. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 2 of 24

3 Haircut guide Preparation Before starting your haircut: complete your client and hair analysis; with your client, decide how long the cut should be; and make sure your client is wearing a protective gown and is sitting comfortably. A parallel haircut is divided into seven areas: Layering Front area Top box 1 Top box 2 Top box 3 Back area layering Outline shape Cutting parallel layers Start at the front area of the head. Make a profile line at the front. This should be in the centre and about the width of one finger. Take your profile line backwards towards the back of the crown. Take your guideline from the fringe length. Hold the hair up 90 degrees to the head shape to create your parallel layers. To make the hair easier to control, this cut uses three top boxes. Your first box will be your top box section. Take a horizontal section across the top box. Your guideline (which was your profile line) will be in the middle of this section. Work forwards, holding the hair at 90 degrees to the head. To create your second and third boxes, you will divide the first box into two further sections. First, split the original section in half (this gives you your second box). When you have cut the second box, split it in half again to create your third box. When you are cutting the second and third box sections, always work forwards, from the back of the crown to the front hairline. Hold the hair at 90 degrees to the head to give you your parallel layers. Remember to check the balance of your haircut as you work. To blend in the back area, take a semi-circular section from the top of the crown to the bottom of the crown. Again, take your guideline from the profile line at the top of the crown. Work outwards from the centre, holding the hair at a 90 degree angle to the headshape. To blend in the occipital and nape areas, extend your profile line down Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 3 of 24

4 from the bottom of the crown to the nape area. Work outwards towards the back of the ear. Pivoting your sections, work down into the nape area. Hold the hair at 90 degrees to the headshape at all times to make your layers. Creating the perimeter shape By creating parallel layering, you will have achieved a soft outline shape. At this stage, you will have a number of choices. This is your opportunity to personalise your haircut. You could create a strong, bold shape or keep to a soft outline. Here, our stylist has created a soft outline. To achieve this, you should use a point cutting technique. This will give you softness and maintain the length. Start at the nape, work through the side areas and finish off at the fringe area. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 4 of 24

5 Step 1 of 30 - Before you cut To achieve the right haircut for your client, it is very important to look carefully at their features - the shape of their face; hair-growth patterns; quantity and quality of hair. You should check all these as part of your client consultation. Face shape The shape of your client's face and head are unique. Each face shape suits different types of hair cut. Oval, round and heart-shaped faces have curved contours ranging from gentle to extreme. A softer hairstyle is more compatible with these face shapes. Square, rectangle and triangle face shapes are angular and solid and have a chiselled look. Sharp, blunt cuts suit these faces much better than soft styles. (For more on identifying and working with different face shapes, see the lesson on client and hair analysis.) Hair-growth patterns You need to take your client's hair growth pattern into consideration when you are cutting their hair because some patterns influence how a cut is carried out. The most common ones are: Double crown Nape whorls Calf licks Widow's peak If you encounter any of these growth patterns, you should cut without using pressure to allow for the natural movement of the hair. You may need to cut the sections of hair within the growth patterns longer than the rest of the hair. This will allow for the movement of the hair as it springs back to how it falls naturally. The hair looks level even though it has not been cut level. Some growth patterns can affect a style so much that it would not look right. You need to be aware of these and explain to your client why the cut won't work. Quantity and quality of hair You should note the density of your client's hair how much hair is on their head and how thick or fine the hair shape is. These factors are important when you are thinking about the balance and control of a haircut. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 5 of 24

6 There are three types of hair texture: Fine Medium/normal Thick/coarse The texture of your client's hair affects the size of the sections you take. For thicker hair, you need finer sections to make sure the guideline is visible. You need to see the guideline to know exactly where you should cut each section of hair. Texture also influences your choice of style. Some styles that work well on thick hair do not look the same on fine hair and vice versa. Step 2 of 30 - Hairlines As part of your client consultation, and before you start your haircut, it is also important to check your client's hairlines. You should do this when the hair is dry and again when the hair is wet after shampooing. Not everyone has a perfect hairline so make sure you check for uneven growth and awkward, moving shapes. There are four areas to look at: Front Sides Nape Crown Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 6 of 24

7 Step 3 of 30 - Hairline, side As part of your client consultation, and before you start your haircut, it is also important to check your client's hairlines. You should do this when the hair is dry and again when the hair is wet after shampooing. Not everyone has a perfect hairline so make sure you check for uneven growth and awkward, moving shapes. There are four areas to look at: Front Sides Nape Crown Step 4 of 30 - Hairline, nape As part of your client consultation, and before you start your haircut, it is also important to check your client's hairlines. You should do this when the hair is dry and again when the hair is wet after shampooing. Not everyone has a perfect hairline so make sure you check for uneven growth and awkward, moving shapes. There are four areas to look at: Front Sides Nape Crown Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 7 of 24

8 Step 5 of 30 - The crown As part of your client consultation, and before you start your haircut, it is also important to check your client's hairlines. You should do this when the hair is dry and again when the hair is wet after shampooing. Not everyone has a perfect hairline so make sure you check for uneven growth and awkward, moving shapes. There are four areas to look at: Front Sides Nape Crown Step 6 of 30 - Profile line Take a profile line from the front hairline to the back of the crown. This should be take from either side of the central parting and should be about the width of your finger. Make sure that this section is central. This will be the guideline you use for the rest of your haircut. Your profile line determines the length of your cut. More importantly, it also determines the balance. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 8 of 24

9 Step 7 of 30 - Layering, parallel Take your guideline from the fringe length. Hold the hair up at a 90 degree angle to the head at all times. Our stylist is using parallel layering. Tip: The length of your client's previous haircut will determine the finished look you are able to achieve. Step 8 of 30 - Layering Cutting against your profile line and holding the hair at a 90 degree angle to the head, work backwards towards the crown. When you are layering hair it is best to stand on the opposite side to the side you are cutting. This gives you more control and allows you to see your guideline more clearly. Tip: The client's head should be in an upright position at all times. And remember to keep the hair wet throughout your cut. Step 9 of 30 - Top box section Split the top area into three box sections. Your first box is the top box section. Take a horizontal guideline from the centre of the top box section. Blend in your guideline, starting at the back of the crown. Hold the hair up at a 90 degree angle from the head and work in horizontal lines across the head. (see top of next page for diagram) Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 9 of 24

10 Step 10 of 30 - Top box section Work from the crown area towards the front hairline. As you progress towards the front hairline, pull back the final front section to meet your previous section. This will maintain length at the front. It is very important to work cleanly. If your guidelines are clear, you can follow them more easily and you will create cleaner cutting lines. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 10 of 24

11 Step 11 of 30 - Box sections 2 and 3 To create your second and third boxes you divide the hair into two further sections. First, split the top box area in half. This will give you your guideline for box 2. When you have cut box 2, divide that section in half down towards the ear. This will give you your guideline for the side hairlines. To create parallel layers, always hold the hair at a 90 degree angle away from the head. Tip: Creating three box sections at the front area gives you more control and allows you to see your guideline at all stages of your haircut. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 11 of 24

12 Step 12 of 30 - Box 2 Using the guideline you created in the top box, blend the hair into your second box. Keep the hair at 90 degrees from the head and make sure you are following your guideline. Step 13 of 30 - Box 3 Using your guideline from box 2, blend the hair into box 3. Pull the hair parallel and work downwards towards the ear section. Remember: keep the hair wet at all times; follow your guideline; make clean, even sections; and ensure the client's head is in an upright position. (see top of next page for diagram) Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 12 of 24

13 Step 14 of 30 - Box section As you start to blend boxes 2 and 3 together, work fowards towards your hairline. Remember to pull back the hair at the front hairline to maintain length. (see top of next page for diagram) Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 13 of 24

14 Step 15 of 30 - Box section, other side Repeat the same procedure on the other side of the head. Remember to: split the top box area in half to create box 2; split box 2 in half to create box 3; work forward from the crown to the front hairline; pull back the hair at the front to maintain length; keep an even tension within your haircut; keep the hair wet as you are cutting; and hold the hair parallel to the head. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 14 of 24

15 Step 16 of 30 - Cross-check front area When you have created a style within your haircut, you need to check across both sides to make sure your cut is balanced and even. If you cut the hair horizontally, you must cross-check vertically. If you cut the hair vertically, you must cross-check horizontally. Our stylist is checking the hair horizontally because this section has been cut vertically. You want to take off the barest minimum of hair when you are cross-checking. If you find you are taking off a lot of hair, you did not cut the hair at the correct angle. Step 17 of 30 - Blend in crown area Take a semi-circular section from the front of the crown to the bottom of the crown. This section will allow you to blend in the top section with the back area. Dividing your haircut into sections will help you follow your guidelines and keep a check on the shape of your haircut. Step 18 of 30 - Crown area Take your guideline from the profile line you created at the top of the crown. Blend into the crown, working out from the centre of your section to the back of the crown. Hold the hair at 90 degrees to the head and make parallel cuts. Tip: Check the crown area at the consultation stage. Some clients will have double crowns. If you cut double crowns short, the hair will stick up. (You can compensate for this by leaving more length at the crown.) Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 15 of 24

16 (see top of next page for diagram) Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 16 of 24

17 Step 19 of 30 - Crown area Angle your section out from the centre of the crown towards the back of your section. Keep the hair wet at all time and work with clean lines. (see top of next page for diagram) Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 17 of 24

18 Step 20 of 30 - Crown area Repeat the same procedure on the other side of the head, paying particular attention to: your guidelines; your sectioning pattern; the balance of the cut; your standing position; and keeping the hair wet. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 18 of 24

19 Step 21 of 30 - Cross-check crown area As you create a haircut, you should be checking all the time to make sure your cut is balanced and even. If you cut the hair horizontally, you must cross-check vertically. If you cut the hair vertically, you must cross-check horizontally. You want to take off the barest minimum of hair when you are cross-checking. If you find you are taking off a lot of hair, you did not cut the hair at the correct angle in the first place. Step 22 of 30 - Blend down into the nape Take a profile line down the centre of the head from the bottom of the crown to the nape hairline. Your profile can be taken either side of your centre point. It should be one finger wide. Tip: Your profile line must be central. It is there to help you achieve a balance between both sides of your haircut. Step 23 of 30 - Back area Work outwards from the profile line at the bottom of the crown towards the back of the ear. Hold the hair parallel to the head and blend in the hair from the back area, cutting it to the same length as your profile line. (see top of next page for diagram) Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 19 of 24

20 Step 24 of 30 - Back area Our stylist is working down towards the nape area, holding the hair parallel to the headshape. Pivot your sections down towards the nape area. As you work down, the client's head should be in a slightly downward position. This will make it much easier for you to create your angle. Tip: When you are layering, always stand on the opposite side to the one you are cutting. You will have more control and be able to see your guideline more clearly. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 20 of 24

21 Step 25 of 30 - Back of the ear Our stylist started at the centre point and is working outwards towards the back of the ear. As you do this, the fan-like sections you are creating will become more apparent. Repeat the same procedure on the other side. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 21 of 24

22 Step 26 of 30 - Cross-check, back area As you cut the second side, check to make sure your cut is balanced and even. You should be checking the balance of your haircut regularly as you work. And remember: if you cut the hair horizontally, you must cross-check vertically; but if you cut the hair vertically, you must cross-check horizontally. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 22 of 24

23 Step 27 of 30 - Finishing, nape area Now that you have completed the perimeter, you can personalise your haircut. With this style, you could blunt cut or point cut into the hair at the nape, side and front areas. Point cutting will eliminate excess length and give you a soft-looking result. Tip: No one can teach you how to personalise your haircuts. This is when you will use your own creativity and ideas. Step 28 of 30 - Finishing, side area Now that you have completed the perimeter, you can personalise your haircut. With this style, you could blunt cut or point cut into the hair at the nape, side and front areas. Point cutting will eliminate excess length and give you a soft-looking result. Step 29 of 30 - Finishing, front area Now that you have completed the perimeter, you can personalise your haircut. With this style, you could blunt cut or point cut into the hair at the nape, side and front areas. Point cutting will eliminate excess length and give you a soft-looking result. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 23 of 24

24 Step 30 of 30 - Finished result As you can see from our finished result, we have created an even weight distrubtion, therfore enabling the hair to move across the head, creating different finish results. Hairdressing-Training.com Download - Page 24 of 24