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1 1 Why am I receiving this bklet? Our recrds shw that yu need 24 CE hurs t renew yur license by Octber 1, 2016 Yu can take all f yur hurs thrugh this hme study bklet r Online at Curse Number: 20167, 20168, This 24 HR. Package Bklet includes: 8 HRS. TRENDY AND CREATIVE CUTS :CE Page HRS. MAINTAINING HEALTHY SKIN :CE Page HRS. COSMETOLOGIST COMPOSITION : CE Page *Test Questins can be fund n Page 30 *Curse Participatin and Test Answer sheet can be fund at the bttm f page 31 *Return page 32 alng with payment in the enclsed envelpe r cmplete nline at WHAT TO DO AFTER YOU COMPLETE THIS COURSE AND MAIL IT BACK TO US????? * After yu cmplete this curse and mail it back t us yu will receive yur Certificate and CE Recrds via unless therwise specified. *Effective April 1,2012 The Nrth Carlina State Bard rules nw require that all licensees Maintain recrds f Curse Title, Descriptin, Date, Address f Lcatin and Hurs Earned. * D Nt mail any f these dcuments t the State Bard unless yu are being audited * Renew yur license by yur expiratin date. (Check the bx t affirm that yu did cmplete yur CE s.) * Yu nly need t submit yur dcuments when the State Bard audits yu.

2 2 24hr 8hr Trendy C-C, 4hr Maintaining h/s, 12hr Cs Cmp Intrductin Haircutting is the single mst imprtant service yu must master as a prfessinal csmetlgist. Why? Because a gd haircut serves as the fundatin f mst every ther service ffered in the saln. Cmpare it t building yur dream hme. Yu envisin the finished prduct. Yu imagine the style yu will use t furnish it. Yu then hire an architect (the stylist) t create the flr plan. Then yu cntract with a builder (the stylist) t cnstruct the hme. Nw, if the builder establishes a weak fundatin made f sand r clay, the hme will nt stand. A slid fundatin, hwever, like the haircut, will serve as the sund base fr the beautifully created hme (r hairstyle)! In additin, every member f the family avails themselves t regular haircuts. Therefre, it is a tremendus surce f revenue and repeat business. Yu will begin with the basics in haircutting. Yu will need t learn the purpse and safe use f each haircutting implement. There are sme basics in the anatmy f the head that will impact yur skills in haircutting as well. Als, a review f sme f the basic elements f design, including frm, balance, and wave pattern, will be beneficial as yu design a haircut. Reference Pints Understanding the reference pints will help ensure balance within the design; allw yu t re-create the haircut again and again; allw yu t knw where and when t change technique t make up fr irregularities, such as a flat crwn. Parietal Ridge The Parietal Ridge is the widest area f the head, starting at the temples and ending at the bttm f the crwn. It is fund by placing a cmb flat n the head at the sides. Where the head starts t curve away frm the cmb is the parietal ridge. This area is als referred t as the crest area. Occipital Bne If a quality, well-blended haircut is nt achieved, yu will have difficulty in cmpleting ther services such as styling r chemical texture services. S it will serve yu well t master yur haircutting skills befre entering the saln. As with any ther service, the client s desires, persnality and lifestyle will all impact the techniques used and the end result f the haircut. PRINCIPLES OF HAIR DESIGN Yu need t develp an understanding f the imprtant steps f the haircutting prcess. Thse principles include sectining, cmbing, elevating the hair, and cutting the hair ends which all essentially represent the physics (fr every actin r technique used, there will be an expected and predictable result) f hair. The Occipital Bne prtrudes at the base f the skull. This area is fund by feeling the skull r placing a cmb flat against the nape area t bserve where the cmb leaves the head. ANATOMY OF THE SKULL Apex The Apex is the highest pint n the tp f the head. It is lcated by placing a cmb flat n the tp f the head. It will rest n that highest pint.

3 3 Fur Crners This area can be lcated in tw ways. (1) Place tw cmbs flat against side and back, lcating the back crner at the pint where the tw cmbs meet. Nape- The nape is the area at the back f the neck and belw the ccipital bne. This area can be lcated by taking hrizntal parting acrss the back f the head at ccipital bne. Back- This area is lcated by parting frm the apex t the back f the ear. The hair that falls naturally behind the ear (lcated at the same time yu lcate the frnt sectin). Fringe-This is als called the bang area. It is a triangular sectin that begins at the apex and ends at the frnt crners. This area can be lcated by placing a cmb n tp f the head s that the middle f the cmb is balanced n the apex. (2) Make tw diagnal lines crssing the apex f the head, pinting directly t the frnt and back crners. The spt at which the cmb leaves the head in frnt f the apex is where the fringe begins. When cmbed int a natural falling psitin, it falls n farther than the uter crners f eyes. LINES AND ANGLES Areas f the Head A Line is a thin, cntinuus mark used as a guide. An Angle is the space between lines r surfaces that intersect at a given pint. Straight Lines can be brken dwn int three types: Tp- Lcate the tp by parting the hair at the parietal ridge, cntinuing all the way arund the head. The hair in the tp area lies n the head while hair everywhere else hangs due t gravitatinal pull. Frnt- Lcate the frnt by parting frm the apex t the back f the ear. The hair that falls in frnt f the ear is cnsidered t be the frnt (sme side hair will be included here). Sides- The sides include all the hair frm the back f the ear frward, and belw the parietal ridge. Hrizntal lines are parallel t hrizn r flr. They are level and ppsite f vertical. They direct the eye frm ne side t the ther. Hrizntal lines are used in ne-length and lw-elevatin haircuts. They build weight. Cnsider the fllwing: Crwn- The crwn is the area between the apex and the back f the parietal ridge.

4 4 ELEVATION Elevatin represents the angle r degree at which a subsectin f hair is held, r elevated, frm the head when cutting. It creates graduatin and layers and is usually described in degrees. The mre yu elevate the hair, the mre graduatin yu create. Elevatin belw 90 degrees builds weight. Vertical Lines are up and dwn rather than left and right. They are perpendicular t the flr. These types f lines are used t create graduated r layered haircuts and used with higher elevatins. They remve weight. Cnsider the fllwing example: Elevatin abve 90 degrees remves weight r layers the hair. CUTTING LINE This is the ANGLE at which the fingers are held when cutting the actual line f hair that is cut. It s als called finger angle, finger psitin, cutting psitin, cutting angle, and shears angle. Diagnal Lines are between hrizntal and vertical lines. They have a slanting r slping directin. They are used t create beveling (a technique fr creating fullness by cutting the ends at a slight taper). Diagnal lines are used t create stacking and t blend lng layers t shrt layers as the fllwing demnstratin shws: Angles- Basic gemetry is imprtant t haircutting because this is hw shapes are created. Angles are imprtant in elevatin and cutting lin GUIDELINES Als called a guide, this is the sectin f hair that determines the length the hair will be cut. It is lcated at either the perimeter (uter line) r the interir f the cut. It is usually the first sectin cut. Statinary Guide- This guide des nt mve.

5 5 All ther sectins fr the statinary guide are cmbed t this guide and cut at the same angle r length. A blunt cut is an example: ELEVATION EXAMPLES: Blunt/One-Length Cut Traveling Guide- Als called a mvable guide, this guide mves as the haircut prgresses. When using this type f guide, yu take a small slice f the previusly cut sectin and mve it t the next subsectin where it becmes the new guide. This guide is used ften in layered and graduated haircuts. 90-Degree Elevatin 45-Degree with 90-Degree

6 6 OVER DIRECTION OVER DIRECTION ccurs when hair is cmbed away frm its natural falling psitin, rather than straight ut frm the head, tward a guide. It s used in graduated and layered haircuts. It can be difficult when a client asked fr smething that yu knw will nt lk best fr that persn. This is when yu will want t draw a line n skills such as gentle persuasin and psitive reinfrcement. A true prfessinal can ffer alternative suggestins that will wrk with the client's hair texture, face shape, and lifestyle. It is within the framewrk f the cnsultatin that yu will target thse skills that led yu int this peple-riented prfessin in the first place. The Desired Lk A great place t start with the cnsultatin is t ask the client what she wants. Smetimes, she may nt be able t answer that questin and may ask yu fr sme suggestins. Either way, this is the first step in the cnsultatin. There are several fcal pints t fcus n here: 1. Hw much time is the client willing t spend n her hair every day? 2. What is her lifestyle? 3. Des she want smething classic r trendy? Fr example, if a client with naturally curly thick hair is asking fr a haircut that is primarily designed fr straight hair, will she be willing t take the time t blw-dry it straight every day? This is als the time yu will want t analyze the hair density and texture, grwth patterns, and hairline. If the client has hair that grws straight up in the nape and is requesting a shrt haircut that is sft and wispy at the hairline, yu knw the hairline will nt lie dwn, s yu may need t suggest ther alternatives that will wrk with that kind f hairline. Client Cnsultant Face Shape A great haircut always begins with a great cnsultatin. Often, when clients cme t yu, they are feeling that there is a lt at stake. They may be preparing fr an imprtant event, such as a party, a business event, r a wedding. They may be in the market fr a new lk, r wanting t change their appearance and, by extensin, hw they feel abut themselves. Always perfrm a cmplete cnsultatin n the client befre beginning the haircut t ensure that bth f yu are in accrd and that the haircut is suitable. A cnsultatin is a detailed cnversatin between yu and yur client during which yu find ut what the client is lking fr, ffer suggestins and prfessinal advice, and cme t a decisin, abut the mst suitable haircut. The purpse f the cnsultatin is t pen the lines f cmmunicatin, have a clear understanding f what the client wants, ensure that the client understands what yu wuld like t d, and tgether determine the end result. Tgether yu may share thughts abut the best haircut fr the client's face shape and can discuss the nature f the client's hair whether it is thick r thin, fine r curse, r straight r curly. If the client has a particular lk in mind, the tw f yu can discuss whether that lk will be apprpriate. Anther part f cnsultatin is analyzing the face shape. A great haircut is nt nly technically sund, but als it suits the client's face shape. T analyze the shape f a client's face, pull all the hair away with a clip, r wrap the hair in a twel. Lk fr the widest areas, the narrwest areas, and the balance f the features.

7 7 A quick way t analyze a face shape is t determine if it is predminantly wide r lng. Lk at the features that yu want t bring ut, and thse yu might want t de-emphasize. Hair Analysis Wide Face Hairstyle By analyzing face shape, yu can begin t make decisins abut the mst suitable haircut, r shape, fr the client. An imprtant thing t remember is that weight and vlume draw attentin t an area. Fr example, if a client has a wide face, a hairstyle with fuller sides makes the face appear wider, whereas a narrwer shape will give length t the face. On the ther hand, if the client has a narrw frehead, yu can add visual width by increasing vlume r weight in that area. In rder t balance ut face shapes r draw the eye away frm certain areas, yu need t add r remve weight r vlume in ther areas. There are five characteristics that determine the behavir f the hair Density Texture Wave pattern Hairlines Grwth pattern Hair Density Narrw Face Hairstyle Anther imprtant pint t cnsider is the client's prfile, r hw she lks frm the side. Turn the chair s yu can see yur client frm the side in the mirrr. Pull the hair away frm the face and away frm the neck. What d yu see? Lk fr features t emphasize, such as a nice jaw line r lvely neck; r features t draw attentin away frm, such as a prminent r a receding chin, a duble chin, r a prminent nse. The haircut yu chse shuld flatter the client by emphasizing gd features and taking attentin away frm features that are nt as flattering. Fr example, if a client has a prminent chin, yu will want t balance the shape by adding vlume r weight smewhere else. If the client has a prminent nse, yu can balance the shape frm the prfile by adding weight in an apprpriate place. Style fr Client with Prminent Chin Style fr Client with Prminent Nse Hair density is the number f individual hair strands n ne square inch f scalp. It is usually described as thin, medium, and thick. Hair density is different frm hair texture in that different individuals with the same hair texture can have different densities. Sme individuals with the same hair texture can have different densities. Sme individuals may have carse hair texture (each hair has a large diameter), but lw hair density (a lw number f hairs n the head). Others may have fine hair texture (each hair has small diameter), but high hair density ( a high number f hairs n the head). The average hair density is abut 2,200 hairs per square inch. Hair with high density (thick r dense hair) has mre hairs per inch. Hair with lw density (thin hair) has fewer hairs per square inch. The average head f hair cntains abut 100,000 individual hair strands. The number f hairs n the head generally varies with the clr f the hair. Blndes usually have the highest density, and redheads tend t have the lwest. Hair Texture Hair texture is the general quality and feel f the hair. It is based n thickness r diameter f each hair strand, usually classified as carse, medium, and fine. A fine hair strand is much "skinnier" then that f a carse hair strand. A client may, in fact, have a fine texture f hair with a thick density, meaning the individual hairs are fine, but there are a lt f them, r a client may have a carse texture but a thin density, meaning the individual hairs are "fatter" but they are spaced further apart, r the client may have a carse texture and a thick density, which translates int a substantial amunt f hair. Why is density and texture imprtant? Different hair types respnd differently t the kind f cutting they receive. Sme hair types need mre layers; sme need mre weight.

8 Fr example, carse hair tends t stick ut mre, especially if cut t shrt, whereas fine hair can be cut t very shrt lengths and still lie flat. Hwever, if a client has fine (texture) and thin (density) hair, cutting t shrt can result in an unflattering lk, with the scalp shwing thrugh. Carse hair texture has the largest diameter. It is strnger than fine hair, fr the same reasn that thick rpe is strnger than thin rpe. Carse hair als has a strnger structure. It usually requires mre prcessing than medium r fine hair and may als be mre resistant t prcessing. It is usually mre difficult fr hair lighteners, hair clrs, permanent waving slutins, and chemical hair relaxers t penetrate carse hair. Medium hair texture is the mst cmmn and is the standard t which ther hair is cmpared. Medium hair is cnsidered nrmal and des nt pse any special prblems r cncerns. Fine hair has the smallest diameter and is mre fragile, easier t prcess, and mre susceptible t damage frm chemical services than carse r medium hair. Hair texture can be determined by feeling a single dry strand between the fingers. Take an individual strand frm fur different areas f the head: frnt hairline, the temple, the crwn, and the nape. Hld the strand securely with ne hand while feeling it with the thumb and frefinger f the ther hand. With a little practice, yu will be able t feel the difference between carse, medium, and fine hair diameters. Wave Pattern The wave pattern, r the amunt f mvement in the hair strand, varies frm client t client, as well as within the same head f hair. A client may have stick-straight hair (n wave), wavy hair, curly hair, extremely curly hair, r anything in between. Wave pattern is the result f genetics and racial backgrund. Althugh there are exceptins, as a general rule, Asians tend t have extremely straight hair, Caucasians tend t have straight t wavy hair, and African Americans tend t have extremely curly hair. Hwever, straight, curly, and extremely curly hair ccurs in all races. This means that anyne f any race, r mixed race, can have hair with varying degrees f curliness frm straight t extremely curly. It is als true that within races, individuals have hair with varying degrees f curliness. 8 The mst ppular thery claims that the shape f the hairs crss sectin determines the amunt f curl. This thery stated that hair with a rund crss-sectin is straight, hair with an val crss-sectin is wavy, and hair with a flat crss-sectin is curly. Althugh it is true that crss-sectins f straight hair tend t be rund and curlier hair tends t be mre val, mdern micrscpes have shwn that a crss-sectin f hair can be almst any shape, including triangular. The shape f the crss-sectin des nt always relate t the amunt f curl. Althugh it is still nly a thery, it is nw believed that natural curl is the result f ne side f the hair strand grwing faster than the ther side. Since the side that grws faster is slightly lnger than the slwer grwing side, tensin within the strand causes the lng side t curl arund the shrter side. Hair that grws unifrmly n bth sides des nt create tensin and results in straight hair. The hair's wave pattern is independent f its ther prperties. Hair has different diameters frm fine t curse, regardless f its wave pattern. All hair, straight t extremely curly and everything in between cmes in different texture and densities. Imagine the same haircut cut at the same length n different types f hair; fine thin hair, thick carse hair, and medium curly hair. Hairlines and Grwth Patterns Bth the hairline and the grwth patterns are imprtant t examine. The hairline is the hair that grws at the utermst perimeter alng the face, arund the ears, and n the neck. The grwth pattern is the directin in which the hair grws frm the scalp, als referred t as natural falls r natural falling psitin. Cwlicks, whrls, and ther grwth patterns affect where the hair ends up nce it is dry. Yu may need t use less tensin when cutting these areas t cmpensate fr hair being pushed up when is dries, especially in the nape, r t avid getting a "hle" arund the ear in the ne-length haircut. Anther crucial area is the crwn (n many peple there are sme wild things ging n up there!) The wave pattern may als vary frm strand t strand n the same persn's head. It is nt uncmmn fr an individual t have different amunts f curl in different areas f the head. Individuals with curly hair ften have straighter hair in the crwn and curlier hair in ther areas. Several different theries seek t explain the cause f naturally curly hair, but there is n single, definite answer that explains why sme hair grws straight and ther hair grws curly. Unifrm layered cut n fine, thin hair.

9 9 Hand Psitins fr Different Cutting Angles As a rule, always stand in frnt f the area yu are wrking n, and psitin yur hands accrding t the cutting line. Unifrm layered cut n thick, carse hair. Cutting ver yur fingers. There are sme situatins in which yu will be cutting ver yur fingers r n tp f yur knuckles. This hand psitin is used mst ften when cutting unifrm r increasing layers. In this case, yu will usually stand t the side f the sectin n which yu are wrking. Cutting belw the fingers. When cutting a ne-length bb r a heavier graduated haircut, it is custmary t use a hrizntal cutting line. In this case, yu will be cutting belw yur fingers, r n the inside f yur knuckles. Unifrm layered cut n medium, curly hair. Psture and Bdy Psitin Psture, which is hw yu stand, and bdy psitin, which is hw yu hld yur bdy when cutting hair, are imprtant habits t be aware f. As a wrking csmetlgist, yu will be spending many hurs n yur feet. Gd psture and bdy psitin will help yu avid back prblems in the future and ensure better haircutting results. The crrect bdy psitin will help yu mve mre efficiently thrugh the haircut and thereby maintain mre cntrl ver the prcess. Psitin the client. Nt nly is yur bdy psitin imprtant, but yur client's is als. Make sure yur client is sitting up straight and that her legs are nt crssed. Gentle reminders as the haircutting prgresses may be necessary. Remember, yu can mve the client by turning the chair, which give yu the ptin t either keep yur bdy in the same place r angle the client's chair s yu can see what yu are ding in the mirrr. Center yur weight. When wrking, keep yur bdy weight centered and firm. Stand with yur knees slightly bent, rather than lcked. Instead f bending at the waist, bend ne knee if yu need t lean slightly ne way r the ther. Stand in frnt f yur sectin. When cutting hair, a general rule f thumb is t stand directly in frnt f the area yu are cutting. By ding this, yu keep yur bdy weight centered, and yu will autmatically find yurself mving arund the head during the haircutting service. If yu wish t stay standing in the same place, r want t be able t view what yu are ding in the mirrr, yu may chse t mve the chair. Cutting palm t palm. When cutting with a vertical r diagnal cutting line, cutting palm t palm is the best way t maintain cntrl f the subsectin, especially with regard t elevatin and ver directin. Cutting palm t palm means that the palms f bth hands are facing each ther while cutting. This is different frm cutting n the tp f yur fingers r knuckles. Cutting palm t palm als helps t prevent strain n yur back as yu wrk. General Haircutting Tips Always take cnsistent and clean partings, which ensure an even amunt f hair in each subsectin and prduce results that are mre precise. Take extra care when wrking in the crwn and neckline, which smetimes have very strng grwth patterns. Anther danger zne is the hair that grws arund the ear r hangs ver the ear in a finished haircut. Allw fr the prtrusin f the ear by either keeping mre weight in that area f cutting with minimal tensin. Always use cnsistent tensin. Tensin may range frm maximum t minimum. Yu can maintain light tensin by using the wide teeth f the cmb and by nt "pulling" the subsectin t tightly. Whatever tensin yu are using, it shuld be cnsistent with in the area n which yu are wrking. Pay attentin t head psitin. If the head is nt upright, it can be hard t judge elevatin and ver-directin. Maintain an even amunt f misture in the hair. Dry hair respnds t cutting differently than wet hair, and may give yu uneven results in the finished haircut.

10 Always wrk with yur guideline. If yu cannt see the guide yur subsectin is t thick. G back and take a smaller subsectin befre cutting. Taking t large a subsectin can result in a large mistake. By using smaller sectins, if a mistake is made, it is small and therefre easier t crrect. 10 Ntching shears are usually designed t remve mre hair, with larger teeth set farther apart. Always crsscheck the haircut; Crsscheck is parting the haircut in the ppsite way, frm which yu cut it, t check fr precisin f line and shape. Fr example, if yu use vertical partings in a haircut, crsscheck the lengths with hrizntal partings. Use the mirrr t see yur elevatin. Yu can als turn he client sideways s that yu can see ne side in the mirrr while wrking n the ppsite side. This helps create even line and maintains visual balance while wrking. Straight razr r razr shaper- mainly used when a sfter effect is desired n the ends f the hair. Razrs can be used t create an entire haircut, t thin hair ut, r t texturize the hair in certain areas. Razrs cme in different shapes and sizes, with r withut guards. Always check that bth sides are even by standing in frnt f yur client as well. Remember that curly hair shrinks mre than straight hair, anywhere frm ½ t 2 inches. Always leave the length lnger than the desired end result. Haircutting Tls There are several tls that are indispensable fr haircutting. Understanding these different implements r tl and the different results yu can get is vital t creating a great haircut. T d yur best wrk, buy and use nly superir implements frm a reliable manufacturer. Use them prperly, and take gd care f them. Clippers- mainly used when creating shrt tapers, shrt haircut, fades and flat tps. Use cutting guards at varius length r in the clipper-ver cmb technique. Clippers can be used withut a guard t shave hair right t the scalp. Haircutting shears- mainly used t cut blunt r straight lines in the hair. May als be used t slide cut, pint cut and fr ther texturizing techniques. Edgers- a smaller versin f clippers mainly used t remve excess r unwanted hair at the neckline and arund the ears, mstly n haircuts fr men and very shrt haircuts fr wmen. Wide tth cmb- mainly used t detangle hair. Rarely used when perfrming a haircut. Sectin clips- these cme in a variety f shapes styles and sizes and can be made f plastic r metal. In general tw Thinning shears mainly used t remve bulk frm the hair. types are used jaw clip and duckbill clips. Bth cme in large and small sizes. Smetimes referred t as texturizing shears, tapering shears r ntching shears. Many different types f thinning shears are used tday, with varying amunt f teeth in the blades. A general rule f thumb is that the mre teeth there are the less hair is remved. Barber Cmb- Mainly used fr clse tapers in the nape and sides when using the shears ver cmb technique. The narrw end f the cmb allws the shears t get very clse t the head. Styling r cutting cmb- als referred t as all-purpse cmb, used fr mst haircutting prcedures. It can be 6 t 8 inches in length and has fine teeth at ne end, wider at the ther.

11 11 4-Hurs Maintaining Healthy Skin II. Curse Descriptin Upn cmpletin this curse yu will have a thrugh knwledge f the anatmy f healthy skin care. Yu will learn abut imprtant facts fr defining healthy skin care. General skin care rutines are discussed which include the use f masks, cleansing techniques, tning, misturizing, and sun prtectin. This curse will als utline the five categries f skin types. With emphasis n skin care awareness in the saln, cmmn skin disrders will be cvered which will help the csmetlgist and esthetician t identify lesins f the skin. This curse will be summed up with imprtant infrmatin abut sun expsure prtectin and the ABCDEs f Melanma. In summary, flash facts abut histlgy f the skin will be demnstrated with pictrial examples. IV. Epidermis Dermis Subcutaneus fat layer (subcutis) What is healthy skin? III. Anatmy f the Skin Yur skin is much mre than an uter surface fr the wrld t see. It prtects yu frm bacteria, dirt and ther freign bjects and the ultravilet rays f the sun, and cntains the nerve endings that let yu knw if smething is ht r cld, sft r hard, sharp r dull. Yur skin als plays an imprtant rle in regulating yur bdy's fluids and - temperature. A. Facts abut the skin: The skin is the bdy's largest rgan, cvering the entire bdy. In additin t serving as a prtective shield against heat, light, injury, and infectin, the skin als: Regulates bdy temperature. Skin cvering the average human bdy ranges between 1.7 and 2 square meters (~20 square feet) in length and weights abut 6 punds (2.7 kg). With s much skin t care abut, lts f peple ignre even the basic needs f a healthy skin. Yu really shuld pay mre attentin t it, knwing that the skin is actually ne f the mst pwerful indicatrs f the verall health. It als eliminates txins thrugh perspiratin via pres which is vital, nt t mentin the appearance and visual impact it has t peple we interact with. Belw the smth, hairy uter skin, r epidermis, that we see every day is a thick, strng and elastic layer f tissue knwn as the dermis. The dermis is richly supplied with bld vessels, sweat and il glands, and nerve endings. Stres water and fat. Is a sensry rgan. Prevents water lss. Prevents entry f bacteria. Thrughut the bdy, the skin's characteristics vary (i.e., thickness, clr, texture). Fr instance, the head cntains mre hair fllicles than anywhere else, while the sles f the feet cntain nne. In additin, the sles f the feet and the palms f the hands are much thicker. The skin is made up f the fllwing layers, with each layer perfrming specific functins: Healthy skin is smth, with n breaks in the surface. It is warm (nt ht r red) and neither dry and flaky nr mist and wrinkled. Healthy skin is a mirrr f a healthy bdy. Healthy skin is well hydrated skin. V. General Skin Care Rutines A. Cleansing

12 12 Cleansing is the first essential step t any daily skin care rutine. Cleansing the face at least twice a day is suitable fr nrmal skin. If skin is ily, a mre frequent cleansing r abut fur t five times a day is required. Hwever, prducts that are water-based and gentle are ideal s as t nt ver-dry the skin. Fr dry skin, it is best t avid frequent washing and a suitable il-based csmetic cleanser instead f sap is preferred. There are several alternatives t sap and water cleansing. Cleansers can be in the frm f creams, milks, ltins, gels and liquids. All are a mixture f il, wax and water which have been frmulated t suit different skin types. A cttn -pad dipped in fresh milk available at hme, is an equally effective natural cleanser. T cmplete the cleansing prcess, the skin must be rinsed with water. Sme wh wear lng wearing fundatin may find it beneficial t pre-cleanse the face with a cleansing il t remve any silicnes left ver frm the fundatin. B. Masks Oatmeal and bran are the cmmnly used peelers. In additin, natural ingredients such as cucumbers, curds, lemn juice and Brewer's Yeast are added t many masks t restre the acid / alkali balance f the skin. There are three general frms that masks cme in: Clay, Peel, and Sheet. The clay frmulatin is ne f the mst cmmn. It is usually cmpsed f different clays t draw ut the impurities in the skin. Peel masks usually have a gel like cnsistency and are peeled ff f the skin t help exfliate. Sheet masks are becming mre cmmn in America; they are very ppular in Asia. Sheet masks can be used t treat different skin cncerns, but ne f the mst ppular cncerns is skin brightening. C. Tning Many skin care prducts include skin fresheners, tners and astringents which generally cntain alchl and water. These prducts are used after cleansing the skin t freshen and tne up and remve any traces f dirt r impurities frm the skin, as well as restre the skin s acid/ alkali balance. Nn-alchlic fresheners are fr dry and sensitive skin. Thse with alchl (astringent) are fr ily skin. When servicing clients with cmbinatin skin, yu shuld use bth kinds fr the different areas f their face. D. Misturizing Essentially all face masks have sme srt f a cleansing actin. Varius ingredients are used in the masks, depending n the skin type. Clay frms an imprtant cnstituent f many face masks that helps t remve dirt, sebum, and dead skin t refresh and sften the skin surface. Fullers earth is a special type f clay ften used in face packs. It cntains aluminum silicate and as it dries n the skin, it absrbs the superficial dead cells and blts up any excessive il. It is therefre excellent fr ily skin but shuld nt be used n dry skin. Kalin is als fine clay which remves grime, ils and dead cells. Again it is best fr ily skin and shuld be avided n dry skin. Anther ingredient f sme f the masks is a peeling r exfliating agent which helps remve the tp layer f dead cells frm the skin, leaving behind fresh yuthful skin. Regular use f a suitable misturizer benefits the skin as it nt nly replaces water lst frm the skin but als prevents the lss f water. It prtects the skin against the drying influences f the envirnment including the harsh effects f the sun, cld and heat. Tinted misturizers can be used under fundatin csmetics. It allws make-up t remain mist. Using a misturizer is particularly beneficial fr dry skins. Oil free misturizers are als available fr ily skins. There are tw types f misturizers: Oil - in water emulsins and water -in -il emulsins. Fr nrmal and cmbinatin skin, a water based misturizer cntaining minimal il is suitable. Sensitive and dry types f skin need misturizers cntaining a high cntent f il. E. Prtecting The sun is the mst damaging envirnmental factr t the health and appearance f skin. Ultravilet radiatin frm sunlight can cause permanent damage t the skin causing it t sag, lse elasticity and frm wrinkles. Severe sunburn can even cause skin cancer. Therefre, sunscreen and SPF-fundatins prtect the skin against these damaging effects.

13 13 They als shield the skin frm direct cntact with dirt r pllutants in the air and help the skin retain necessary misture. Sunscreen's cme in ltins and creams. A sunscreen with the sun prtectin factr (SPF) f number 15 can blck mst f the sun's ultravilet radiatins befre it can damage the skin. The SPF number indicates the length f time that the prduct will prtect the skin, i.e. 15 hurs. Peple wh belng t this skin type shuld avid prducts with dyes, perfumes, r unnecessary chemical ingredients that may aggravate the skin. VII. Cmmn Skin Disrders A. Acne Sunscreens shuld be applied at least 10 minutes befre expsure t the sun t ensure prper absrptin and effective prtectin. VI. Skin Types There are five basic skin types, including: A. Nrmal Skin This type f skin has a fine, even and smth surface due t having an ideal balance between il and misture cntents and is therefre neither greasy nr dry. Peple wh have nrmal skin have small, barely-visible pres. Thus, their skin appears clear and des nt develp spts and blemishes. This type f skin needs minimal and gentle treatment. B. Dry Skin Dry skin has a parched appearance and tends t flake easily. It is prne t wrinkles and lines due t the inability t retain misture, as well as, the inadequate prductin f sebum by sebaceus glands. Dry skin ften has prblems in cld weather as it dries up even further. Cnstant prtectin in the frm f a misturizer by day and a misture-rich cream by night is essential. C. Oily Skin As its name implies, this type f skin s surface is slightly t mderately greasy, which is caused by the ver secretin f sebum. The excess il n the surface f the skin draws dirt and dust frm the envirnment t stick t it. Oily skin is usually prne t black heads, white heads, spts and pimples. It needs t be cleansed thrughly every day. D. Cmbinatin Skin This is the mst cmmn type f skin. As the name suggests, it is a cmbinatin f bth ily and dry skin where certain areas f the face are ily and the rest dry. The ily parts are usually fund n a central panel, called T Zne, cnsisting f the frehead, nse and chin. The dry areas cnsist f the cheeks and the areas arund the eyes and muth. In such cases, each part f the face shuld be treated accrdingly where the dry areas are treated as fr dry skin and the central panel is treated as fr ily skin. There are als skin care prducts made especially fr thse wh have cmbinatin skin. E. Sensitive skin Sensitive skin has a very fine texture and is excessively sensitive t changes in the climate. This skin type is easily irritated, bruised and/r scarred frm bleaching, waxing, threading, perfumes, temperature extremes, sap, shaving creams, etc. What is acne? Acne is a disrder f the hair fllicles and sebaceus glands. With acne, the sebaceus glands are clgged, which leads t pimples and cysts. Acne is very cmmn - nearly 80 percent f individuals in the US between 11 and 30 years ld will be affected by this cnditin at sme pint. Acne mst ften begins in puberty. During puberty, the male sex hrmnes (andrgens) increase in bth bys and girls, causing the sebaceus glands t becme mre active - resulting in increased prductin f sebum. Hw des acne develp? The sebaceus glands prduce il (sebum) which nrmally travels via hair fllicles t the skin surface. Hwever, skin cells can plug the fllicles, blcking the il cming frm the sebaceus glands. When fllicles becme plugged, skin bacteria (called Prpinibacterium acnes r P. acnes) begin t grw inside the fllicles, causing inflammatin. Acne prgresses in the fllwing manner: 1. Incmplete blckage f the hair fllicle results in blackheads (a semislid, black plug). 2. Cmplete blckage f the hair fllicle results in whiteheads (a semislid, white plug). 3. Infectin and irritatin cause whiteheads t frm. Eventually, the plugged fllicle bursts, spilling il, skin cells, and the bacteria nt the skin surface. In turn, the skin becmes irritated and pimples r lesins begin t develp. The basic acne lesin is called a cmed. Acne can be superficial (pimples withut abscesses) r deep (when the inflamed pimples push dwn int the skin, causing pus-filled cysts that rupture and result in larger abscesses).

14 14 What causes acne? Rising hrmne levels during puberty may cause acne. In additin, acne is ften inherited. Other causes f acne may include the fllwing: Hrmne level changes during the menstrual cycle in wmen Certain drugs (such as crticsterids, lithium, and barbiturates) Oil and grease frm the scalp, mineral r cking il, and certain csmetics may wrsen acne Bacteria inside pimples Acne can be aggravated by squeezing the pimples r by scrubbing the skin t hard. What are the symptms f acne? Acne can ccur anywhere n the bdy. Hwever, acne mst ften appears in areas where there is a high cncentratin f sebaceus glands, including the fllwing: Face Chest Upper back Shulders Neck The fllwing are the mst cmmn symptms f acne. Hwever, each child may experience symptms differently. Symptms may include: Blackheads Whiteheads Pus-filled lesins that may be painful Ndules (slid, raised bumps) B. Dry Skin What is dry skin? Dry skin is a very cmmn skin cnditin, usually characterized by irritated skin and itchiness. Dry skin ften wrsens in the winter, when the air is cld and dry. In additin, frequent bathing can aggravate dry skin. With n treatment, dry skin may becme flaky r scaly. It is imprtant t nte, hwever, that dry skin symptms may resemble ther skin cnditins, r result frm ther disrders such as an under-active thyrid r acquired immune deficiency syndrme (AIDS). Always cnsult yur physician fr a diagnsis. Treatment fr dry skin: Treating dry skin may be as simple as keeping the skin mist by taking fewer baths and using intments r creams that keep the misture in. Treatment may als include: Aviding harsh saps, detergents, and perfumes, which tend t dry the skin Aviding rubbing r scratching the skin, which can aggravate the symptms and cause infectin Applying a salicylic acid slutin r cream (which remves the Call yur dctr if: tp layer f skin) if the skin is scaly There is itching withut a visible rash. The itching and dryness are s bad yu can't sleep. Yu have scratched s hard that yu have pen cuts r sres. Hme remedies have nt relieved the dryness and itching. C. Psriasis

15 15 Guttate psriasis This type f psriasis affects mstly children. Symptms may include many small patches f red, raised skin. A sre thrat usually precedes the nset f this type f psriasis. Pustular psriasis Symptms may include small pustules (pus-cntaining blisters) all ver the bdy r just n the palms, sles, and ther small areas. The symptms f psriasis may resemble ther skin cnditins. Always cnsult yur physician fr a diagnsis. What is psriasis? Psriasis is a chrnic skin cnditin characterized by inflamed, red, raised areas that ften develp as silvery scales n the scalp, elbws, knees, and lwer back. Psriasis is estimated t affect 7.5 millin peple in the US. What causes psriasis? Hw is psriasis diagnsed? When the cnditin prgresses t the develpment f silvery scales, the physician can usually diagnse psriasis with a medical examinatin f the nails and skin. Cnfirmatin f diagnsis may be dne with a skin bipsy (taking a small skin specimen t examine under a micrscpe). Treatment fr psriasis Specific treatment fr psriasis will be determined by yur physician based n: Yur age, verall health, and medical histry Severity f the cnditin Yur tlerance f specific medicatins, prcedures, r The exact cause f psriasis is unknwn, but experts believe that the immune system, genes, and envirnmental factrs play central rles. Nrmally, ld skin cells are replaced with new nes every fur weeks. In peple with psriasis, the immune system triggers inflammatin, causing new cells t mve t the surface every three r fur days. The resulting buildup frms the rash. Psriasis cannt be passed frm persn t persn, but it des tend t run in families. What are the symptms f psriasis? The fllwing are the mst cmmn symptms f psriasis. Hwever, each individual may experience symptms differently, as psriasis cmes in several frms and severities. Symptms may include: Discid psriasis Als called plaque psriasis, this type f psriasis is the mst cmmn. Symptms may include patches f red, raised skin n the trunk, arms, legs, knees, elbws, genitals, and scalp. Nails may als thicken, becme pitted, and separate frm the nail beds. therapies Expectatins fr the curse f the cnditin Yur pinin r preference The gal f treatment is t reduce inflammatin and slw dwn the rapid grwth and shedding f skin cells. At the present time, there is n cure fr psriasis. Treatment may include: Ointments and creams (t misturize the skin) Sunlight r ultravilet light expsure (under a physician's supervisin) Sterids (such as crtisne creams) Vitamin D cream Creams cntaining salicylic acid r cal tar

16 16 Anthralin--a drug that treats the thicker, hard-t-treat patches f psriasis. E. Pityriasis Rsea Methtrexate--an anti-cancer drug that interrupts the grwth f skin cells. Oral r tpical retinids Immunsuppressive medicatins (such as Cyclsprine) Outlk There is n knwn way t prevent psriasis. Althugh it is a life-lng cnditin, it ften can be cntrlled with apprpriate treatment. Keeping the skin clean and mist, and aviding persn-specific psriasis triggers (excessive stress, fr example) may help decrease flare-ups. D. Keratsis Pilaris What is pityriasis rsea? Pityriasis rsea is a mild, but cmmn, skin cnditin. Characterized by scaly, pink, inflamed skin, the cnditin can last frm fur t eight weeks and usually leaves n lasting marks. What causes pityriasis rsea? The cause f pityriasis rsea is nt knwn, but it is cmmnly believed t be caused by a virus. It is usually seen in children, adlescents, and yung adults. Mst peple with the rash are 10 t 35 years f age. The cnditin is mre prevalent in spring and fall. What are the symptms f pityriasis rsea? What is keratsis pilaris? Keratsis pilaris is a cmmn skin disrder characterized by small, pinted pimples. The pimples usually appear n the upper arms, thighs, and buttcks. The cnditin wrsens in the winter and usually clears up in the summer. Keratsis pilaris has n knwn cause, but tends t run in families. This disrder des nt get wrse ver time. It is harmless, and ften disappears as the persn ages. Treatment fr keratsis pilaris: Usually n treatment is necessary fr keratsis pilaris, since it nrmally clears up by itself. Treatment may include: Using petrleum jelly with water, cld cream, r salicylic acid (which remves the tp layer f skin) t flatten the pimples Using a tretinin cream (a drug which is chemically related t vitamin A) Cntact yur health care prvider if the cnditin des nt respnd t ver-the-cunter misturizing ltins. Since this is a cmmn, harmless skin cnditin, yu can als discuss it during a rutine ffice visit. Pityriasis rsea usually starts with a pink r tan val area (smetimes called a herald r mther patch) n the chest r back. The main patch is usually fllwed (after a cuple f weeks) by smaller pink r tan patches elsewhere n the bdy--usually the back, neck, arms, and legs. The fllwing are ther cmmn symptms f pityriasis rsea. Hwever, each individual may experience symptms differently. Symptms may include: Fatigue Aches Itching The symptms f pityriasis rsea may resemble ther skin cnditins. Always cnsult yur physician fr a diagnsis. Hw is pityriasis rsea diagnsed? Pityriasis rsea is usually diagnsed based n a medical histry and physical examinatin. The rash f pityriasis rsea is unique, and the diagnsis is usually made n the basis f a physical examinatin. In additin, yur physician may rder the fllwing tests t help aid in the diagnsis:

17 17 Bld tests Skin bipsy--the remval f sme f the diseased skin fr labratry analysis. The sample f skin is remved after a lcal anesthetic is administered. Treatment fr pityriasis rsea Specific treatment fr pityriasis rsea will be determined by yur physician based n: Yur age, verall health, and medical histry Extent f the rash Yur tlerance fr specific medicatins, prcedures, r What is rsacea? Rsacea is a cmmn skin cnditin that usually nly affects the face and eyes. Characterized by redness, pimples, and brken bld vessels, rsacea tends t begin after middle age (between the ages f 30 and 60) and is mre cmmn in fair-skinned peple. The cause f rsacea is unknwn. An estimated 14 millin peple in the US have rsacea. What are the symptms f rsacea? Rsacea ften begins with easy blushing and flushing f the facial skin. Eventually, redness will persist arund the nse area, extending t the rest f the face. Rsacea has a variety f clinical symptms and is classified int the fllwing fur types, based n these different symptms: therapies Expectatins fr the curse f the rash G. Sebaceus Cysts Yur pinin r preference The gal f treatment fr pityriasis rsea is t relieve symptms assciated with the cnditin, such as itching. Treatment may include: Medicated ltins and creams (t sthe the itching) Medicatins by muth (t ease the itching) Cl baths with r withut atmeal (t sthe the itching) Ultravilet expsure (under a physician's supervisin) Cl cmpresses (t sthe the affected skin) There is n cure fr pityriasis rsea. The cnditin will usually reslve n its wn in abut six t 12 weeks. Nrmally, it des nt return. F. Rsacea What are sebaceus cysts? Sebaceus cysts are harmless, slw-grwing bumps under the skin, ften appearing n the scalp, face, ears, back, r grin area. The cysts usually cntain dead skin and ther skin particles. Treatment fr sebaceus cysts: Warm mist cmpresses placed ver the cysts may help them drain and heal. Sebaceus cysts can usually be treated by a physician by puncturing the tp and remving its cntents. Hwever, large cysts may reappear and may have t be surgically remved. If a cyst becmes swllen, tender, large, r infected, treatment may include administering antibitics and then surgically remving the cyst. VIII. Skin Disrder Awareness in the Saln

18 18 Csmetlgists are nly cncerned with primary and secndary lesins. Primary Skin Lesins Macules: disclratin appearing n the skin's surface While the level f knwledge needed by scientists is nt necessary fr csmetlgists, a thrugh knwledge f the underlying structures f the skin nails and hair will benefit yu in yur rle. Such knwledge will help yu achieve the best pssible results when prviding hair, skin, and nail care services while at the same time prviding the utmst prtectin fr yur client. Yur training will help yu t becme familiar with cmmn disrders and diseases f the skin and allw yu t recgnize thse cnditins that cannt be treated r serviced by a csmetlgist. Thrughly analyzing the functins and cmpnents f the skin is the best way t understand hw the skin wrks. With prper care, the skin can stay yung and radiant-lking fr many years. This curse cntains extensive new terminlgy which will seem verwhelming at first. We will cver the material in detail and intrduce several exercises and activities that can be used t help yu retain the terminlgy and definitins. The skin is the largest and ne f the mst imprtant rgans f the bdy. A healthy skin is slightly mist, sft and flexible. It pssesses a slightly acid reactin and is free frm any disease r disrder. The ideal feel and appearance f skin is smth and fine-grained. That feel and appearance is knwn as skin texture. Hairs, nails, sweat and il glands, which are all very imprtant t the csmetlgist, are cnsidered appendages f the skin. It is imprtant t nte that the skin n the eyelids is the thinnest f the entire bdy while the skin n the palms f the hand and sles f the feet is the thickest. Cntinued pressure n any part f the skin will result in calluses. The skin n the scalp has larger and deeper fllicles t accmmdate the lnger hair fund n the head. Freckles are an example f macules. Lentigines: technical term fr freckles Papules: hardened red elevatins f the skin in which n fluid is present A large papule is knwn as a tubercle. A pimple is an example f a papule. Vesicles: fluid filled elevatins in the skin caused by lcalized accumulatin f fluids r bld just belw the epidermis. Macules and papules may cause vesicles. Herpes Simplex: als knwn as fever blister, is a cntagius, chrnic cnditin caused by a single vesicle r a grup f vesicles n a red swllen base. Appears n the lips, nstrils, r ther parts f the face. Services shuld nt be perfrmed when herpes simplex is present. Bulla: Lesin, and larger vesicles with a clean watery fluid Lcated belw the skin Occur in secnd-degree burns. Lesins f the Skin Pustules: Small elevatins f skin; similar t vesicles, but cntain pus Skin lesins are abnrmal changes in the structure f an rgan r tissue. Lesins are divided int three categries: They are white r yellw in clr and may be surrunded by a reddish inflamed brder. An example f a pustule is a pimple with pus. Primary Secndary Tertiary Wheals: Slid frmatin abve the skin, smetimes caused by an insect bite r allergic reactin May be accmpanied with itching r tingling An example f a wheal is hives r an insect bite.

19 19 Tumrs: Slid masses in the skin, which may be sft r hard An example f a small tumr is a ndule. Secndary Lesins A secndary skin lesin is the prgressed stage f a disease. Needs t be treated by a dermatlgist r a physician Pigmentatin Abnrmalities are cnditins with little r t much clr in certain areas f the skin. Melanderma: Hyper-pigmentatin caused by ver activity f the melancytes in the epidermis Examples f melanderma are chlasma and lentigines. Chlasma: Grup f brwnish macules usually n the hands and face Scales: Dead cells f the uppermst layer f the epidermis Als knwn as liver spts that shed. Mles: Small, brwn pigmented spts that may be elevated. Psriasis and dandruff are examples f scales Sme cntain hair, but shuld nt be remved Psriasis: Rund, dry patches f skin, cvered with rugh silvery scales. It is chrnic, but nt cntagius. Crust: Dried masses that cme frm the remains f an zing sre. An example: scab n a sre Excriatins: mechanical abrasins r injury t the epidermis Occur when an insect bites r scab is scratched A physician shuld be seen if there are any changes in the appearance f a mle. Mles are the cause f sme skin cancers. Naevus: Birth mark r a cngenital mle Leukderma: Hyp-pigmentatin (lack f pigmentatin) f the skin caused by a decrease in melancytes. Albinism: Cngenital failure f the skin t prduce melanin pigment A persn with albinism has very fair skin, white hair, and pink eyes. An example f an excriatin is a scratch Fissure: Cracks in the skin They are sensitive t light and sun. Vitilig: Oval r dd shaped patches f white skin that d nt have nrmal pigmentatin. Cracks r lines that g deep int the underlying dermis Occur when skin is expsed t wind, cld, r water and lses its flexibility An example f a fissure is a chapped lip Scars: Frms frm a lesin when injury extends deep int the dermis Disrders f the Sebaceus Glands Usually appear n the face, hands, and neck Cmednes: Als knwn as blackheads; masses f sebum (il) lcked inside the hair fllicle Milia: Als knwn as whiteheads; caused by accumulatin f hardened sebum beneath the skin Acne: Chrnic inflammatry disrder f the sebaceus glands Kelids: Thick scars Ulcers: Open lesins that are visible n the surface f the skin Pigmentatin Abnrmalities Services shuld nt be perfrmed when ulcers are present. Acne ccurs in tw stages: acne simplex and acne vulgaris. A persn with acne vulgaris shuld seek a physician Rsacea: Als knwn as acne rsacea; a chrnic inflammatry cngestin f the cheeks and nse; papules and pustules are smetimes present.

20 20 Services shuld nt be perfrmed when rsacea is present. fibers weaken faster when skin is frequently expsed t ultravilet (UV) rays withut prper prtectin. Asteatsis: dry, scaly skin caused by lw sebum prductin Sebrrhea: Excessive secretin f the sebaceus glands. UVA breaks dwn the cllagen structure which results in wrinkles. Steatma: Als knwn as a sebaceus cyst r wen; subcutaneus tumr f the sebaceus glands, filled with sebum Furuncles: Als knwn as bil; appears in the dermis and the epidermis and are caused by acute staphylcccal infectin. UVB rays, als called burning rays; cause sunburn and tanning f the skin by affecting the melancytes (cells f the epidermis that prduce melanin). These rays are nt as deep as UVA but are equally damaging t the skin and eyes. They d, hwever, cntribute t the bdy s synthesis f vitamin D. Usually are hair fllicle infectins Once cllagen is damaged, it cannt re-build itself. Carbuncles: Larger than furuncles; lcated abve and belw the skin are caused by acute staphylcccal infectin f several adjining hair fllicles. Disrders f the Sudriferus Glands Brmidrsis: Ful-smelling perspiratin Up t 80% f skin aging is caused by the sun. Freckles/Sun Spts Freckles and sun spts are signs f skin damage and develp as a result f t much sun expsure. Anhidrsis: Lack f perspiratin; caused by fever r disease Hyperhidrsis: Over-prductin f perspiratin; caused by excessive heat r bdy weakness Miliaria Rubra: Acute eruptin f small red vesicles; caused by excessive heat Services shuld nt be perfrmed when Miliaria Rubra is present. Sun Tan Freckles and sun spts are frequently fund n face, legs and back f hands. Individuals wh sunbathe regularly may develp freckles and sun spts all ver their skin. Cntrary t ppular belief, a tan is nt healthy. A tan is a sign that damage has been dne t yur skin. When expsed t the sun s UV rays, yur skin s melancytes Keep the fllwing facts in mind befre perfrming a service n any client wh may have a skin disrder: Csmetlgists and estheticians are nt dermatlgist r physicians wh diagnse and treat skin diseases and disrders. It is very imprtant that yu are able t recgnize different skin cnditins inrder t prtect yurself and yur client. Hwever, cming in cntact with skin every day shuld encurage yu t be cautius when yu find cases f severe skin disrders. IX. THE SUN AND YOUR SKIN A. Skin Damage Overexpsure t ultravilet (UV) radiatin frm the sun can cause significant damage t yur skin. Sunburn prduce melanin, the dark pigment that creates a tan. A tan is yur skin s attempt t prevent UV rays frm ding any further damage t the sensitive skin cells in yur epidermis. A tan des nt help prtect yur skin frm getting sunburn in the future. A tan is equivalent t merely an SPF 4! Overexpsure t the sun s UV rays results in a painful sunburn. UV rays penetrate deep int the layers f yur skin and kill living skin cells. In respnse t this trauma, yur bdy s immune system increases bld flw int the damaged area s white bld cells can remve the dead skin cells. This bld flw is what causes yur sunburned skin t becme warm and red. Wrinkles UVA rays frm the sun can penetrate deep int yur skin and damage cllagen, which is the prtein that hlds yur skin tgether in a firm and smth way. Cllagen and elastin There is substantial evidence that sunburns can lead t DNA damage. Repeated sunburns dramatically increase yur risk f develping skin cancer because f this damage t yur DNA.

21 21 B. SUN EXPOSURE PRECAUTIONS Each amin acid is cnnected tgether by a "peptide bnd". The peptide bnd is lcated between the carbn atm f ne amin acid extending t bnd with the nitrgen atm f the next amin acid. Wear prtective ltin. Sunscreen with SPF (sun prtectin factr) f 15 is recmmended. Avid prlnged expsure. (Especially during peak hurs f 10:00 a.m. and 3:00 p.m.) Apply sunscreen liberally after swimming. (Apply peridically thrughut day as a precautin) Use full r brad spectrum sunscreen. (These filter ut UVA and UVB rays f the sun) Check expiratin dates n prducts. Avid expsing children under 6 mnths. Wear hat and prtective clthing utdrs. 12 HOUR COSMETOLOGIST COMPOSITION The Structure f Hair: The A Helix Cil In the rganizatin f a single hair, three "alpha helices" are twisted tgether t frm a "prtfibrils". This is actually the first fibril structure f the hair. Nine prtfibrils are then bundled in a circle arund tw r mre t frm an eleven-stranded cable knwn as the "micr fibril". These micr fibrils are embedded in an amphrus unrganized prtein matrix f high sulfur cntent and hundreds f such micr fibrils are cemented int an irregular fibrus bundle called a "macr fibril". These macr fibrils are gruped tgether t frm the crtex (r the main bdy) layers f the hair fiber. Packed dead cells surrund these structures and are knwn as the cuticular layers f the hair. In the center f these structures lies the medullary canal, which is actually a part f the excretry system and huses any freign debris, heavy metals, synthetics and medicatins that are thrwn ff by the bdy and eventually released thrugh the canal. We will begin by defining the hair. Hair is cmpsed primarily f prteins (88%). These prteins are f a hard fibrus type knwn as keratin. Keratin prtein is cmprised f what we call "plypeptide chains. The wrd, plypeptide, cmes frm the Greek wrd "ply" meaning many and "pepts" meaning digested r brken dwn. The Crtex In essence, if we break dwn prtein, we have individual amin acids. Many (ply) amin acids jined tgether frm a "plypeptide chain". Tw amin acids are jined tgether by a "peptide bnd", and the crrect number f amin acids placed in their crrect rder will frm a specific prtein; i.e. keratin, insulin, cllagen and s n. The "alpha helix" is the descriptive term given t the plypeptide chain that frms the keratin prtein fund in human hair. Its structure is a ciled cil. The amin acids link tgether t frm the cil and there are apprximately 3.6 amin acids per turn f the helix (cil). The crtex is the middle layer f the hair, lcated directly beneath the cuticle layer. End bnds cnnect the plypeptide chains f the crtex. End bnds are crss-linked by side bnds. This crss-linking frms the fibers and hair structure. These chemical bnds hld the hair in its natural wave pattern and, are respnsible fr the incredible strength and elasticity f human hair. Breaking the side bnds f the crtex makes it pssible t change the natural wave pattern f the hair. Peptide Bnds (End Bnds)

22 22 Althugh there are far fewer disulfide bnds than hydrgen r salt bnds, disulfide bnds are the strngest f the three side bnds and accunt fr abut ne-third f the hair's verall strength. The chemical and physical changes in disulfide bnds make permanent waving, sft curl permanents (curl re-frming), and chemical hair relaxing pssible. Salt Bnds (Side Bnds) The chemical bnds that jin the amin acids are called peptide bnds, in turn, link tgether t frm lng chains f amin acids called plypeptide chains. Prteins are lng, ciled, cmplex plypeptide chains that make f many different amin acids linked tgether, end-t-end, like pp beads. It is imprtant t nte that peptide bnds shuld nt be brken during any saln service. Breaking the hair's peptide bnds causes the plypeptide chains t cme apart and dramatically weakens the hair. If used incrrectly, chemical hair texturizers can break peptide bnds and cause hair breakage. Chemical hair texturizers must be used carefully. Side Bnds The middle layer f the hair, the crtex, is made up f millins f plypeptide chains crss-linked with each ther by three different types f side bnds. The bnds that link up the plypeptide chains f the hair are hydrgen, salt and disulfide bnds. Salt bnds are relatively weak physical side bnds that are the result f an attractin between ppsite electrical charges. Salt bnds are easily brken by changes in ph, as in permanent waving, and re-frm when the ph returns t nrmal. Even thugh salt bnds are far weaker than disulfide bnds, the hair has s many salt bnds that they accunt fr abut ne-third f the hair's ttal strength. Hydrgen Bnds (Side Bnds) Hydrgen bnds are relatively weak physical side bnds that are the result f an attractin between ppsite electrical charges. This bnd is lcated between the cils f the alpha helix and is respnsible fr the ability f the hair t be stretched elasticity) and return back t its riginal shape. The hydrgen bnds allw us t change the shape f the hair temprarily with the aid f water. Hydrgen bnds are easily brken by water, as in wet setting, r heat, in thermal styling, it is refrm as the hair dries r cls. Althugh individual hydrgen bnds are very weak, there are s many f them that they accunt fr abut nethird f the hair's ttal strength. Hydrgen bnds accunt fr ne-third f the hair's strength. The hydrgen bnd is a weak physical side bnd that is easily brken by water r heat. Hydrgen bnds can be refrmed by drying r cling the hair. These bnds are very abundant in the hair. Bnding in Keratin Prtein When the hair is in its nrmal unstretched state. It is referred t as A f alpha keratin. The riginal cnfiguratin f the hair is held in place by the bnding fund in the crtex layers f the hair. As we stated earlier, keratin prtein begins with an alpha helix building int prtfibrils, micr fibrils, macr fibrils, and then crtex layers. The bnds in the hair are lcated within each and every alpha helix. Disulfide Bnds Disulfide bnds are frmed between tw cysteine amin acids, lcated n neighbring plypeptide chains. A disulfide bnd jins a cysteine sulfur atm n ne plypeptide chain with a secnd cysteine sulfur atm n a neighbring plypeptide chain t frm cysteine, the xidized frm f cysteine. Disulfide bnds are weaker than peptide bnds, but are much strnger than hydrgen r salt bnds. Disulfide bnds are strng chemical side bnds that are nt brken by heat r water. Althugh there are far fewer disulfide bnds that are nt brken by heat r water. A wet set is an example f a physical change that results frm breaking and re-frming the hydrgen bnds within the hair. Wetting the hair breaks the hydrgen bnds and permits the hair t be stretched and wrapped n rllers. Drying the hair remves the water and re-frms the hydrgen bnds in their new shape. These changes are nly temprary. As sn as the hair is wet r is expsed t high humidity, it will return t its riginal shape. Thermal styling with hair dryers, curling irns, and pressing cmbs als break hydrgen bnds. These styles invlve a physical change with temprary results. The hair returns t its riginal shape as sn as it is wet. Understanding Hair Structure A hair is a specialized utgrwth f part f the skin called the epidermis. It can be divided int tw distinct parts, the hair fllicle and the hair shaft. Hair fllicle: is a small, curved pit buried deep in the fat f the scalp and is the pint frm which the hair grws. The hair fllicle is well supplied with tiny bld vessels and the bld passing thrugh them nurishes the grwing regin. Nrmal bdy temperature surrunds the hair fllicle, which is nt affected by cld r ht weather. While animal hair, like that f a cat r hrse, grws at different rates depending n the amunt f natural light, which