Natural Preservatives

Transcription

1 Cosmetic Natural Preservatives 1. MSE-G 2. BHC-C

2 MSE-G Natural preservatives that could apply to all cosmetic products With wide anti-microbiological activity Viscosity is not affected No reaction with macromolecules It is possible to apply it to any products It has been released to Korean market over 14yrs.

3 BHC-C It is a safer natural preservatives than edible cosmetic preservatives Clear liquid Could be used in lipsticks, lip gross, hydrogel, gargle, toothpaste and baby products

4 Charateristics Product MSE-G BHC-C INCI Name Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract Glycyrrhiza Glabra(Licorice)root Extract Lactobacillus Ferment Glycerin Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract Glycyrrhiza Glabra(Licorice)root Extract Cordyceps militaris mycelium Extract Lactobacillus Ferment Glycerin Physical test Solubility - Color : light yellow liquid - ph(2% Solution) : 5.3 ± Solubility : Water-soluble (little Turbid) - Could be applied to natural cosmetics - Recommend dosage : 2% Light suspension with 2% liquid solvent Could be properly suspended with 0.1~0.2% solubilizer - Color : yellow liquid - ph(2% Solution) : 5.6 ± Solubility : Water-soluble - Could be applied to natural cosmetics and food - Recommend dosage : 2%-2.5% Clear with 2% liquid solvent Natural cosmetic preservatives Manufactured as food industry, edible natural preservatives Could be used in hydrogel&sheet mask

5 MIC test MHB, Species, Concentration (8.0x10 4 cfu/ml), ph7.0, Microdilution method, 35 /48hrs Strains MSE-G(%) BHC-C(%) Methylparaben(%) S.aureus E.coli P.aeruginosa C.albicans A.niger MSE-G showed same or better effect as Methylparaben does However, it is recommended to apply more than 3% of natural preservatives while 0.3% of Methylparaben is needed Methylparaben is a low-mw product which might miss-direct the data of challenge test. Oppositely, the recommend dosage of natural preservatives is much more reliable.

6 Challenge test-formula Moisturizing Cream Content(%) Water to 100 Hexyl Laurate Glycerin Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Betaine Beta-Glucan Sodium Hyaluronate Cetyl Alcohol Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterols Hydrolyzed Collagen Hydrogenated Lecithin Sorbitan Sesquioleate Stearyl Alcohol Ceramide Tocopheryl Acetate Sorbitan Stearate Sodium PCA BST-Gel L-arginine MSE-G / MSE-G1 / BHC-C 2.00

7 Challenge test_microbes Each preservative was added to cream and total cell number was observed after 7, 14, 21, and 28 days. Re-challenge test was performed if any microbe was not observed after 28 days. - Challenge test of microbes (inoculum cells : 2x10 6 cfu/g) Preservative Number of cells (CFU/g) 7days 14days 21days 28days Control >10 5 >10 5 >10 5 >10 5 MSE-G 2.0% ND ND BHC-C 2.0% ND Methyl-Paraben 0.3% ND ND

8 Re-challenge test_microbes Each preservative was added to cream and total cell number was observed after 3, 7, 14, 21, and 28 days. Re-challenge test was performed if any microbe was not observed after 28 days. Re-challenge of microbes (inoculum cells : 1x10 6 cfu/g) Preservative Number of cells (cfu/g) 7day 14day 21day 28day Control >10 5 >10 5 >10 5 > % MSE-G ND 2.0% BHC-C ND 0.3%Methyl-paraben ND

9 Challenge MIC test test_fungi Each preservative was added to cream and total cell number was observed after 7, 14, 21, and 28 days. Re-challenge test was performed if any fungi was not observed after 28 days. - Challenge test of fungi (inoculum cells 8x10 5 cfu/g) Preservative Number of cells (CFU/g) 7days 14days 21days 28days Control >10 5 >10 5 >10 5 > % MSE-G ND 2.0% BHC-C ND 0.3%Methyl-paraben ND

10 Re-challenge MIC test test_fungi Each preservative was added to cream and total cell number was observed after 3, 7, 14, 21, and 28 days. Re-challenge test was performed if any fungi was not observed after 28 days. - Re-challenge test of fungi (inoculum cells 1x10 6 cfu/g) Preservative Number of cells (cfu/g) 7day 14day 21day 28day Control >10 5 >10 5 >10 5 > % MSE-G ND 2.0% BHC-C ND 0.3%Methyl-paraben ND

11 Stability-Light, Temperature 1: Control, 2:MSE-G 2% 3: BHC-C 2% 4types of cosmetics are adopted + MSE-G& BHC-C changes with light and temp. Product Toner Serum Lotion Cleanser Time Condition week Control Light 광 ( 빛 ) 4weeks 4 온도 (4 ) 45 온도 (45 ) 4types of cosmetics are stable with light and at 4 or 45 The color of cleanser is changed while store at 45 : The color in control group is also changed this change is not induced by preservatives

12 Viscosity Thickener + MSE-G & BHC-C Is there any change in ph or viscosity? 1. Types: Carbopol 940, C2020, Cosmedia SP(sodium polyacrylate) 2. Measurement: Brookfield, model: DV-II+ (spindle N0.3, 23, RPM 10) Polymers Preservatives ph Viscosity before After before After C % C % Cosmedia 0.50% MSE-G 2% BHC-C 2% MSE-G 2% BHC-C 2% MSE-G 2% BHC-C 2% ph value: It is slightly decreased in polymers with MSE-G & BHC-C. Viscosity: It is decreased with both MSE-G and BHC-C, but the it is less affected with MSE-G. The preservatives is directly applied to polymer in this test. It might be different while apply to cosmetics.

13 Viscosity_ Lotion Lotion + MSE-G & BHC-C changes in ph or viscosity 1. Concentration of thickener: C %, Cosmedia SP 0.5%, Keltro F(Xanthan gum) 0.2% 2. Measurement: Brookfield, model: DV-II+ (spindle N0.3, 23, RPM 10) Type Preservatives ph Viscosity before After before After Lotion MSE-G 2% BHC-C 2% ph value : It is almost not changed in lotion with MSE-G & BHC-C. Viscosity: It showed a decrease with both MSE-G & BHC-C.

14 Macromolecules Polymers + MSE-G & BHC-C The impact of distribution and temperature 1. HA (hyaluronic acid, micromolecule) 0.5% 2. HA (hyaluronic acid, macromolecule) 0.5% 3. Carbopol 940 (carbomer) 0.3% 4. Amigel (Sclerotium gum) 0.5% 5. SC β-glucan 0.5% (Sodium carboxymethyl betaglucan) 6. D.W MSE-G 2% added BHC-C 2% added There are no changes in these 5 types of macromolecule with MSE-G and BHC. It is also stable at room temp. and 45. Although the solution turned white with 2 % MSE-G, but it remains clear while applied with 0.1~0.2 % MSE-G.

15 계면활성제 Surfactant Paper disc diffusion assay is used to check the anti-bacterial effect in surfactant 7 surfactants are mixed seperately with MSE-G, BHC-C.The clear zone is then compared. Clear zone (mm) MSE-G BHC-C 계면활성제 Without surfactant 무첨가 Anion 음이온 양쪽성 Zwitterion 비이온 Nonionic 양이온 Cation Amisoft CT-12S (TEA Cocoyl Glutamate) anion 2 Micolin S-430 (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) anion 3 Corum 2C (Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate) anion 4 Mitaine CA (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) zwitterion 5 Plantacare 2000up (Decyl Glucoside) nonionic 6 Plantacare 818up (Coco-Glucoside) nonionic 7 Plantacare 1200up (Lauryl Glucoside) nonionic 8 Miconium stac30 (steartrimonium chloride) cation 1. The anti-bacterial effect is decreased in zwitterion surfactant4 with MSE-G, BHC-C 2. The anti-bacterial effect is increased in anion surfactant1 with MSE-G, BHC-C 3. It is slightly changed in nonionic and cation surfactant7, 8 with MSE-G, BHC-C 4. BHC-C cannot be properly mixed with cation surfactant8. Tangles are appeared in the solution.

16 Human Patch test Observation and judgement performed after patch test for 24hr This experiment is to test the stability of natural preservatives in cosmetics. Judgement - ± Score Results of evaluation (person) Test 1hr 24hrs Assessment - ± ± Vehicle No irritation MSE-G 20% No irritation BHC-C 20% No irritation * Vehicle : D.W. * 10x recommend concentration is used in this test * Number of volunteer: 10 There is no or mild irritation with natural perservatives! # Evaluatuon : ± Doubtful reaction + Weak reaction (erythma, papoule) ++ Strong reaction (erythma, papoule, vesicle) - Negative reaction

17 Analysis of composed preservatives

18 BHC-C Hydrogel Challenge test

19 Experimental design 1. Gel base : Agar 1.5% Carrageenan 0.5% Xanthan Gum 0.3% 2. Test product : 1 BHC-C 0.5% + PE 0.2% 2 BHC-C 0.8% 3 PE 0.2% + Methylparaben 0.1% 3. Inoculation : Bacteia & Yeast (1Х10 5 cfu/ml) 35 Mold (1Х 10 4 cfu/ml) 28

20 Experimental process 1. Heat up and dissolve the gel base. 100g of each gel base is prepared. 2. Add the treatment to each gel base (100g). The concentration is identical in each gel base 3. Seed B+Y(10 6 cfu/ml), Mold(10 5 cfu/ml) 1ml in each plate 4. Pour 9ml of gel base+treatment to each plate at 45~48 [Final bacterial concentration: B+Y(10 5 cfu/ml), Mold(10 4 cfu/ml)] 5. The plate is sealed with Parafilm. B+Y is incubated at 35, Mold is incubated at The gel is cut into 8 pieces 14 days later. 4 pieces are put into falcon tube ml of sterilized saline solution is added into each falcon tube with gel 8. Mix the solution via vortexing, 200 μl of final solution is then spread on a fresh agar gel

21 Diagram Add treatment 45~48 9ml Gel base 100g B+Y = 10 6 cfu/ml Mold = 10 5 cuf/ml 1ml Gel base + treatment 4pieces added incubate 14days B+Y 35 M 28 B+Y(PCA) Mold(PDA) Vortexing Spreading

22 Experimental result C: BHC-C, PE: Phenoxyethanol, MP: Mehtylparaben Challenge 14 일차 Control C 0.8% PE 0.2% + MP 0.1% bacteria 10 5 Fungus 10 4 Recommend dosage: BHC-C 0.8%