Marketing Markets Ingredients Production

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1 E51280 COSMETICS SPRAY TECHNOLOGY MARKETING Marketing Right up to date current sun care trends Markets Germany 2013: toiletries + household care markets record a slight increase Ingredients Natural cosmetics traditional actives under the microscope Production Can different foaming behaviours be differentiated by automatic foam testers? VIP of the Month Dr. Stefan Bänziger of Rahn explains how to make irritating processes more mild and how to support the return of the skin barrier to a normal level Focus: Sun Care 1-2/2014

2 Worried About UVA Filter Re-crystallization? Your problem is solved with LexSolv A When it comes to high performance sun care, there is no more important functionality than solubilizing the key UVA absorbing ingredients. LexSolv A out-performs the current market leaders in sunscreen solubilization: DHHB* Bemotrizinol Avobenzone LexSolv TM A 15% 17% 20% dicaprylyl carbonate C12-15 alkyl benzoate 10% 9% 13% 6% 14% 15% Safe, effective, globally approved, non-irritating and non-sensitizing. Contact INOLEX now to find out more about optimizing your UVA performance with LexSolv A. * INCI: diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine INCI: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

3 EDITORIAL On trial! Well, if you already have the first 2014 issue of COSSMA in your hands then the year must be just that bit older. Nevertheless I would still like to take this opportunity to wish you every success with your new product launches, and with your national and inter - national sales figures! We live in an age where the women who buy and use cosmetics have, if anything, too much choice when it comes to deciding on the right product for them. One way of helping that decision is by sampling the options. And sampling, as an effective way of winning new customers, has gained very much in importance in this age of e-commerce. But, in traditional sales channels, samples distributed in the fragrance, skin care and hair care sectors, as well as colour cosmetics, still have an important place. Most of these are still picked up by customers when they are in a perfumery or cosmetics retail store. This has been Downloads confirmed by a study entitled The importance of sampling in the perfumery sector * and supports with hard facts something which we already knew intuitively, i.e. 50 percent of perfumery customers will try a sample before committing themselves to buy a new product. On average almost every second fragrance and every second skin care product is bought only after trying a free sample obtained in the retail shop, in a magazine or on the Internet. Interestingly however, customers have found the sampling policy in perfumeries to be more and more restrictive. So anyone thinking about activating his sample policy to win new customers will find, on page 32, a collection of brand new trends and new developments in the sample business. And what can we learn from the market and its developments over the recent past? Which product categories were successful, and why? You will find plenty of answers in the article by Andreas Lange of the IKW and Rainer Anskinewitsch of Information Resources which starts on page 14. The authors have summarised the development of the cosmetics market, and also the domestic cleaning products market, in Germany in Download-services at or scan the QR code now! Your access codes for February User name: cossma 2 Password: sun PS: Our QR codes and tablet-compatible e-paper will take you via direct links to TV clips, downloads, book tips and more. The sun care sector is very much dependent on the weather, but regardless of this it is worthwhile protecting oneself from UV radiation all through the year. Which global trends are impacting on the sun care market, which ingredients can resolve difficult formulation problems, and what can we expect in the future? The answers can be found in an article by representatives from ingredients suppliers, starting on page 10. * Source: The importance of sampling in the perfumery sector, a German study carried out on behalf of the German perfumery association by Innofact in 2012 I hope you enjoy reading this issue, which will, we trust, give you added impetus and ideas in your work. Yours Angelika Meiss Senior editor, COSSMA Follow us on COSSMA 1-2I2014 3

4 14 I Germany s toiletries + household care markets record a slight increase in I On-the-go packaging still sets the trend Contents 10 I Which trends will be leading the sun care market of tomorrow? 22 I Natural cosmetics plants with a long tradition and lots of active substances 3 Editorial NEWS 8 Markets + Profiles FOCUS Sun care 10 a Right upto date sun care trends for the future 13 Vivienne Rudd, Mintel: International launches MARKETING 14 a Andreas Lange, IKW, Rainer Anskinewitsch, Information Resources: Germany: Personal and household care Small sales increase in Imogen Matthews, In-Cosmetics: Trends in cosmeceuticals 18 Maria Kaiser, Kaiserqualität: Mango butter Fruity, and exotic 21 Star of the Month: New polymer for cosmetics with added experience PRODUCTION 22 a Prof. Dr. Heike Raddatz, Hochschule Trier: Natural cosmetics A close look at traditional actives 24 a Dr. Stefan Bänziger, Rahn: Strategy against skin ageing and sensitive skin Anti-inflammatory skin care 26 a Sarah Hokamp, Prof. Dr. Thomas Gassenmeier, Hochschule Ostwestfalen-Lippe: Different surfactant combinations Foam isn t just foam 29 Laurie Marshall, AkzoNobel: Natural skin care New starch ingredient for elegant products 30 New Ingredients 32 Sample packs more and more luxury in demand 36 Packaging News SERVICES 6 Download List 38 Essential Oils: Price list 39 Formulations: Face + Colour 42 Events Diary 43 International B2B Exchange 44 Suppliers Guide 48 Company Index 48 Advertisers Index 49 Masthead Page 50 Trend statement by Dr. Olivier Doucet, Lancaster 50 Preview a Leading articles Front cover picture: Kuleczka, Shutterstock.com

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6 SERVICES DOWNLOAD Free Downloads for Subscribers Click through our Web TV clips: characterizes the natural cosmetics market in the USA. photo: Kazoka, Tubol_Evgeniya, Shutterstock.com COSSMA Download-Tip New fragrance trends for textiles and laundry care The delightful Arabian fragrances, so well-known in the fine perfumery business, could now introduce some new perspectives in the fragrancing of textiles and laundry products, and offer the consumer a new and different experience and one which can be interpreted to meet the high demands in terms of perfumery, as well as extending the possibilities of modern creativity. COSSMA subscribers can download further background information. It is important to use mild surfactants and only small amounts of special preservatives Top-Downloads for February points out how the market developed in Product Information: Information: Most Innovative Launches 2013 (Mintel) explains what the brand Clarisonic is all about. Background: Boosting Performance with Film Formers in Sun Care (Inolex) Adress Listing: Service Providers for Cosmetics + Personal Care Formulation: Macadamia Nut Oil Body Lotion (Zschimmer & Schwarz) photo: Nikolai Sorohin, Fotalia.de explains the product concept behind Lancôme s Dreamtone. Downloads Additional information at or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for February: User name: cossma2 Password: sun Log in and take full advantage! On the COSSMA web site we post lots of additional information elated to the topics covered in the magazine. You will find more than 1,000 useful additional items to extend your knowledge and understanding: more information on the ingredients and finished products that we cover, market data and statistics, supplier listings, literature references, scientific articles, product formulations and useful base formulations. Take a look right now, at 6 COSSMA 1-2I2014

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8 NEWS MARKETS + PROFILES Adolf Hopf: Frank Knoch Alban Muller: Alban Muller and Marc Morisset Ashland Deutschland: Sonja Gehm BCG: Vera Meyer Coty: Mary van Praag Hermès: Christine Nagel Icada: neu gewählter Vorstand La Mer: Cirsten Hannken Maria Galland: Erik Hageleit NCD Ingredients: Horst Waltenberger Sabinsa Europe: Rashid Umar Jan People Adolf Hopf I Frank Knoch, who has more than 25 years experience in the sales of plastic packaging, now takes on the role of sales and marketing director at Adolf Hopf. Alban Muller I Alban Muller, CEO of the company of the same name, was elected Chairman of the research association The Botanical Alliance replacing Gérard Josset. Marc Morisset has joined Alban Muller International USA as its new Business Development Manager for the United States and Canada. Ashland Germany I Sonja Gehm is now Sales Representative for Germany at Ashland Deutschland. BCG Baden-Baden Cosmetics Group I Vera Meyer, who was until recently the sales director for the salon brand Dermalogica, is now sales director Germany at BCG with the brands Biodroga, Sans Soucis and Dr. Scheller. NSC Neubourg Skin Care: Fritz Neubourg Procter & Gamble: Jan van Mossevelde Coty I Following the retirement of George Schaeffer, the founder and CEO of OPI, Mary van Praag has been appointed general manager. Schaeffer will remain available as strategic consultant to the OPI board, and will support the artistic head of many years standing Suzi Weiss- Fischmann. Geka I Arnaud Brilland has been appointed as new Vice President Sales, North America. He joined the former Rexam (now Albéa) in He will be based in New York and will be reporting directly to Jerôme de Prémare, Geka Group Senior Vice President Sales & Marketing. Hermès I With effect from March 2014 the perfumer Christine Nagel will be working with the Hermès perfumer Jean- Claude Ellena, who since 2004 has been a leading light at the company. Christine Nagel was Vice President responsible for fine fragrance creation at Mane. Together with the Hermès artistic director Pierre-Alexis Dumas, and Dirk Heinzl Christine Nagel will herald a new chapter in Hermès fragrances. Icada I The newly elected Icada board is formed by Carl- Michael Diedrich of CMD Naturkosmetik, Hans Georg Härtling and Michaela Bachmann of Macon Meerescosmetic, Detlef Isermann of P&M Cosmetics, Heinz H. Freier of Tech4beauty and Paul J. Greineder of Pharmos Natur Green Luxury. Paul J. Greineder was elected as deputy chairman and Heinz H. Freier was appointed as chairman. La Mer I Cirsten Hannken (43), who has held several important posts in sales and marketing over the last 13 years at Beiersdorf (most recently for Eucerin) will now, as a company director, contribute to the expansion of the brand. Maria Galland I At the globally represented stock brand Maria Galland Paris, Karl-Heinz Geiger has transferred international management of the Maria Galland group to the new MD, Erik Hageleit. NCD IngredientsIHorst Waltenberger is now Director Corporate Development and a partner at NCD Ingredients. Previously he was, from 1994 to 2013, MD for Impag Germany, Poland and France and before that he was at Rewo, (today Evonik) and later with Kao. In addition he committed himself over 8 years to the position of voluntary committee member of SEPAWA. Sabinsa Europe I Rashid Umar Jan, PhD, has joined Sabinsa Europe GmbH as Technical Sales Manager and will be based in the Sabinsa Europe office in Langen, Germany. NSC Neubourg Skin Care I Fritz Neubourg, the inventor of Allpresan foaming cream and company founder, has died at the age of 74 after a serious illness. His son Dr. Thomas Neubourg, who has been the sole general manager for some years, will continue to run the international company. Procter & Gamble I Jan van Mossevelde has taken over the management of marketing for Procter & Gamble in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. His predecessor, Dirk Heinzl, joins the global brand management of Procter & Gamble Oral Care. 8 COSSMA 1-2I2014

9 MARKETS + PROFILES NEWS 20 th BEAUTY FORUM SWISS in Zürich BEAUTY FORUM SWISS I On the 1 st and 2 nd of March 2014 there will be some 12,000 visitors at the 20 th anniversary of the BEAUTY FORUM SWISS in Zurich. About 600 exhibitors and brands will be showing the latest trends and developments, new products and special applications from the cosmetics, nail care and foot care sectors. The attractive package of things not to be missed at the exhibition includes specific product exhibition areas, practically oriented workshops, high calibre congresses, championship events and stage shows. With the exhibition App, which is regularly updated, you can plan your optimum visit. In addition to exhibition hall plans the App includes the full programme of workshops and hair shows as well as videos of previous exhibitions. photo: 3dmask, Shutterstock.com The App for iphone und ipad is available in the App-Store, for Android phones und tablets in the Google Play Store The new exhibition App helps you organise an optimum visit A must the 4 th BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG! Anti-ageing is the main topic at the 4 th Cosmetology Congress BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG I On April 5 th and 6 th, 2014, 250 exhibitors and brands will be waiting for you at the Leipzig exhibition centre. They will be showing their latest cosmetics, nail care, foot care and medical beauty products, plus anti-ageing and natural cosmetics! A new feature this year is that the exhibition area for cosmetics and nail care, foot salon accessories, and the International Business Forum will be expanded and include the top subject of Wellness & SPA. The 4 th German Cosmetology Congress that will be run during the exhibition takes place on Saturday April 5 th, The main topic of the congress, to be moderated by COSSMA editor Angelika Meiss, will be anti-ageing and covers three sessions: complexion and dermatology, actives under the microscope, and apparative treatments for anti-ageing. Also on the exhibition Saturday the Foot Forum will take place. Further information at vorverkauf@health-and-beauty.com photo: Robert Gruber ZinClear XP - safe through the summer! Very high efficacy, easy to use and a high transparency are the main demands of today s end users addressed to sunscreen products. Because of many publications in consumer magazines, especially the UVA protection is becoming more and more important. A today s UVA absorber should provide high photo stability, a high transparency and easy to use capabilities. ZinClear XP is provides many advantages demanded in today s complex sunscreen formulations. ZinClearXP is......safe....very effective....photostable....easy to use....transparent on human skin....very good compatible with organic UV absobers*. ZinClearXP is THE optimum UVA absorber! UV Absorber Polymers Aloe Vera Emollients Surfactants Jojoba Oil Thickeners Emulsifiers *For organic UV absorbers, we are also the right contact! Contact us! neochem GmbH fröndenberger str. 75 d menden phone +49 (0) / fax +49 (0) / info@neochem.de

10 FOCUS: SUN CARE INGREDIENTS Right up to date Future sun care trends What are the global trends that are impacting on the sun care sector, and what will sun care in the future look like? And of course, what clever solutions are available from ingredients suppliers to help us get to grips with demands? You can read here the views of some of those who know the sector well. The high requirements in terms of performance include high SPF value, UVA protection, water resistance and photo-stability as well as consumers expectations regarding the products sensory properties Uli Osterwalder, BASF Uli Osterwalder, Senior Marketing Manager and Scientific Adviser Sun Care at BASF: The race to higher and higher SPF is settling at a high level. In Asia, Australia and Europe a cap at SPF 50+ is in place, whereas in the Americas sunscreens with SPF up to 100 and beyond can still be found. Looking at the worldwide market, we can see a clear trend towards sunscreens with SPF between 30 and 50, which make up 50 to 60% of new launches. Europe is the most active market, accounting for half of the new product launches, followed by Asia and North America. Only recently we have expanded our portfolio to include the new broadspectrum UV filter Tinosorb A2B, which provides protection from UVB and photo: Anastasiia Kryvenok, Shutterstock.com UVAII wavelengths from 290 through to 340 nm. Thanks to its UV absorbance capabilities it is now one of the most efficient UV filters available on the European market, and closes the protection gap in the UVAII range that was not covered as efficiently by UV filters available to date. Modern sun care products should contain carefully selected combinations of UV filters. These days, UV filter combinations in sunscreen products should offer the same level of protection as clothing or shade and should protect equally from both UVB and UVA rays. A sunscreen that consumers will like to use is also gentle to the skin, has a light texture, absorbs quickly and has an attractive sensory profile for a pleasant skin feel. The emollients from our Cetiol range provide sunscreen formulations with the required moisturizing and caring properties. Face care and foundation products, especially BB creams, accounted for about 20% of the products with sun protection launched in North America and Europe last year. Dr. William Johncock, Global Head of UV Protection & Functionals, Symrise: The latest trends we see are an increased number of products which are suitable for people with very sensitive skin in every distribution outlet, from private label to luxury in every region. Also Downloads Additional information at qr00212 or just scan the QR-Code! Your access codes for February: User name: cossma2 Password: sun products which are free of parabens but also achieve adequate preservation are becoming more common. Products which offer additional benefits, such as protection from Infra-red radiation or offer an even skin tone, are becoming more common. Our formulations based on our Dracorin GOC and Emulsiphos emulsifiers are light in texture and are suitable for use on sensitive skin. We have also applied for patents for our discovery that our anti-ageing ingredient Dragosine protects against infra-red radiation. Our newly launched multi-functional nature-identical ingredient SymSave H has good preservation-boosting properties and can be used in paraben-free formulations, especially in high SPF products. Anu Desikan, Global Marketing Manager, Personal Care, Vandana Kethey, Marketing Manager, Industrial & Consumer Care, Clariant: As one of the fastest growing skin care categories we see sun care increasing in importance for consumers globally due to a growing awareness regarding the impact and damage of sun on unprotected skin. These are some of the global trends that we find the most promising: Multi-functional skin care products that provide sun protection benefits to simplify consumers lives and make sun protection easy and part of their daily routine. Saving time/easier application with innovative and improved product application formats including foam, whipped cream, gel, sticks etc. Tinted product forms such as tinted lotions, moisturizers & BB/CC/DD 10 COSSMA 1-2I2014

11 INGREDIENTS FOCUS: SUN CARE creams with SPF are on the rise and we expect this trend to continue. There is increasing interest in a sun care regime for babies and children the idea is to start early to develop important habits for the future as well as the development of milder formulations to meet this target market. In the future product sensory experience will be a key theme combined with product performance. Our portfolio of Aristoflex rheology modifiers helps with achieving various textures and sensory cues. Combined with our Plantasens range of natural emollients, waxes and actives, an array of skin health benefits can be addressed. Today s educated consumer is looking for a more natural sun care experience as concerns about synthetic products and actives are on the rise. We expect to see an increase in natural sun care products as well as natural ingredient claims in sun care. Our new Plantasens naturally-derived raw materials offer solutions in this area. There will be an increase in the incorporation of skin care and health ingredients into sun care products. We feel that the claims made for sun care will increasingly incorporate skin care claims to create products with multifunctional benefits. The next generation product focus will be on delivering care/repair claims along with sun protection. Clariant will be launching a patented encapsulation technology for the delivery of pure cosmetic actives in personal care applications for enhanced performance to address this need. Total sun care products will grow as concerns about skin repair, following sun damage and ageing, come to the forefront, resulting in all-in-one integrated skin care solutions. Harald van der Hoeven, Director Technical Marketing, CLR: Consumers are showing increasing awareness that their skin needs all the help it can get, not just by the application of sunscreens, but also by helping the skin to better deal with sunlight in general. The use of active ingredients in sunscreen formulations, strengthening the skin cells self defence mechanisms, is strongly on the rise. We see many sunscreen manufacturers using active ingredients and make related efficacy claims, which were only used and made for high-end face care products in the past. An important pitfall that we see is that some manufacturers use soothing and calming active ingredients in their sunscreen products. These will reduce skin redness and artificially boost the SPF, but it is not advisable to use these types of ingredients in sunscreens. UV filters protect the skin cells, which, consequentially, do not become inflamed, or at least less so. This leads to the skin to show less erythema and redness. Active ingredients which address the inflammatory processes in the skin will also reduce erythema, but they do not address the real problems in the skin cells. These problems should be addressed by goal-oriented active ingredients and, obviously, by the use of UV filters. With after-sun products it is now more and more realized that care of the skin with after sun-products should not only comprise soothing and calming of the skin, but should also address factors such as skin restoration and preparing the skin for further sunlightinduced stress. Sunlight, apart from inflaming the skin and accelerating the ageing process in the skin, has a tremendous impact on the skin s barrier function. The skin dries out and has a difficult time restoring its barrier function. This topic is of growing interest in the cosmetics market. Phytosan K and Repair Complex CLR PF, have been shown, for example, to make skin cells more resilient against sunlight. They are basically able to boost the Minimal Erythemal The number of products suitable for people with very sensitive skin is increasing Dr. William Johncock, Symrise Dose (MED) of the skin. Lactokine Fluid PF is a typical strong soothing and calming active ingredient, which has been shown to accelerate the reduction of skin redness after UV-irradiation. SyriCalm CLR (PC) has a similar effect, but also helps the skin in maintaining a stronger barrier function, protecting it against water loss on the one hand, but also accelerating barrier recovery. These actives fit both currentday sun care aims and future trends. Currently there is one particular problem or should we say opportunity? with sunscreen products. In general consumers use less sunscreen than they should, leading to a lower SPF from the sunscreen product. Does that mean that we should start using less than 2mg/cm 2 on the skin, when performing an SPF test, or should we educate the consumer better? Angela Kleiner, Marketing Manager, Croda: In a study over recent years we learned that we are able to talk to 30 yearolds from the SPF Generation with a new awareness about the need for sun care and protection. This can be seen in new product launches. According to Mintel in 2012 in Europe more than 1,800 new skin care products, with claims of UV protection, were launched. So we are seeing on the one hand a combination of skin care with UV protection and on the other hand sun care products with an anti-ageing action. We can also see here a trend towards HEV (High Energy Visible Light) and infrared light. The Solaveil SpeXtra- photo: Racorn, Shutterstock.com COSSMA 1-2I

12 FOCUS: SUN CARE INGREDIENTS Range from Croda offers protection and works, in combination with Venuceane from Sederma, to prevent matrix break-up and inflammation processes. Sabrina Baumgart, responsible for cosmetics application technology at Zschimmer & Schwarz: The consumer wants particularly effective protection that is not sticky, doesn t leave white marks, and is waterproof. In addition chemical light protection filters are becoming the subject of increased discussion in natural cosmetics, so that alternatives such as inorganic filters are attracting interest. It would be quite possible however to convert many of the current formulation ideas from simple day care to children s protection products. The HelioPro product range helps in the formulation of time-saving and simple sun protection products with inorganic light protection filters. The range consists of liquid titanium dioxide dispersions with various coatings. Hence the pre-dispersed titanium dioxide particles can be simply adapted to meet the special needs of the widest variety of formulations. The high transparency HelioPro AB 40H for instance can be used in daily care formulations such as a daytime cream with an average SPF level. High coverage variants such as HelioPro BC 50L, offer effective sun protection, in particular for babies, children and those with sensitive skin, and cover the UVA as well as the UVB field. Using HelioPro OLEA 50H, based on olive oil, effective natural cosmetics products can be formulated. The differentiation and thus the specialised care which is becoming more and more specific in terms of the skin needs of various consumer groups will almost certainly take centre stage in the future together with time-saving thanks to the use of multi-functional products. New innovative formulations such as rinse-off formulations, which offer intensive care and could replace body lotions, may also be the basis for new sun care products. In this matter multi-functional ingredients will be needed that do not overload the formulations, that are cost-saving, and make it easier to develop appealing products. Product sensory experience will be a key theme combined with product performance Anu Desikan and Vandana Kethey, Clariant Anna A. Gripp, Global Marketing Manager, Skin Care and Sun Care at Ashland: One of the trends that we see is the use of agents that provide water resistance and that can also boost SPF and help with rub-resistance. ASI supplies water-resistant polymers Ganex/Antaron polymers. They help to boost SPF performance as well as assisting with rub-resistance. Ashland s patent pending HydroSheer water resistance technology can be applied to wet or dry skin without whitening. Spray formulations are becoming of interest outside the US and there is a desire to have a spray that can be applied to wet skin without a whitening effect. The Escalol S* UV filter is a broadspectrum UV filter compatible with most other UV filters. When using our wide range of UVB and UVA filters in combination they provide broad spectrum protection. Our selection of Ceraphyl emollients can help with imparting a more desirable feel to the formulation. Axel Kirchniawy, Product Group Leader for cosmetics, Lehmann & Voss: Today the same demands are placed on self-tanners as are placed on high quality skin care. In addition to the tanning effect, skin feel, fragrance, and an even tan, as well as skin care properties and an increase in skin moisture level, must be right. Emollients in combination with dihydroxyacetone (DHA) offer an additional benefit. The film-forming properties of Floraesters K-20W are highly suitable for photo: Warren Goldswain, Shutterstock.com use in rinse-off products and products that require a waterproof character or a longer dwell-time on the skin. The high substantivity of Floraesters K-20W Jojoba activates a retention of molecules on the surface of the skin. Combined with glycerine the skin moisture level is considerably increased. In this way self-tanners work against the drying effect of dihydroxyacetone (DHA). They also have a positive action on spreadability and odour. Because of their film-forming property self-tanning actives are sealed on the upper skin layer so that the tan lasts longer. Dr. Regina Walther, Scientific Assistant at Pera: Pigments as stand-alone UV protection have reached their limits. There is a demand for physiologically active additives. Different plant extracts work as radical scavengers, or as a DNA protective shield, and help avoid sunburn. CP Betaglucan, obtained from oats, has been shown, thanks to its specific molecular structure to penetrate deep into the dermis and in clinical tests results in a longer-lasting and up to 400 times higher skin moisturisation than the equivalent hyaluronic acid. Polyphenol extracts from red grapes have shown to be a potent radical scavenger and particularly potent polyphenols are contained in Eminol, a patented extract from the tempranillo grape. Specific polyphenols from oats, the CP Oat Avenanthramides, are shown to stop the inflammation processes in the skin as they begin to appear, and protect the DNA from UV damage. But in after-sun care oats also reduce redness itching or swelling due to avenanthramide. *Note this ingredients is pending approval for use in the US Additional information can be found on the Internet see Internet panel Our website guide COSSMA 1-2I2014

13 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT FOCUS: SUN CARE International launches This month Vivienne Rudd, head of Beauty and Personal Care Insight at Mintel, presents a selection of sun care products. Empório Body Store s Tan Prolonging Bar Soap (Sabonete em Barra Prolongador do Bronzeado) in a 140g pack is enhanced with extracts of carrot, beetroot and annatto, ingredients said to help hydrate the skin and fix the tan to intensify the vitality of tanned skin. Joy Papaya Sun Anti Darkening and Blemish Kit SPF 15, with its biodegradable formulation, is a herbal kit comprising a newly designed Facial Gel Cleanser, an Exfoliating Scrub, a Sun Protection Cream and a Tan Protection Downloads Additional information can be found at qr00204 or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for February: User name: cossma2 Password: sun Pack. This four-step beauty regime is designed to fade out blemishes, spots and pigmentation marks whilst imparting a spotless glow. It is rich in vitamins A, E, and C, and anti-oxidants to moisturise the skin and clear it from dirt and dark spots formed due to exposure to sunlight. The kit can be used as facial cleanser or face mask to remove tan from the face. Papaya contains the enzyme papain with its exfoliating properties and claims to remove blemishes, pigmentation marks, dead skin, and specifically damaged skin. The Facial Gel Cleanser brightens the skin with papaya enzymes which dissolve dead, damaged cells to improve the skin texture. The Exfoliating Scrub features multi vitamins and papaya fruit enzyme for lightening of the pigmentation. These ingredients can lift away pore clogging dead and damaged skin and also help to reduce freckles and brown spots caused by exposure to sunlight. The Sun Protection Cream is enriched with papaya enzymes and natural sunscreen to protect from UV-A/UV-B. The Tan Protection Pack nourishes with aloe vera and papaya extracts to defend skin-darkening of melanin cells. The Lancaster Sun Sport Ski range is designed to allow users to tan even in winter, with sun protection to fit their needs. Included in the range is the Wind and Cold Protection Comfort Cream SPF 50 (Crème Confort Protection Vent et Froid SPF 50), which is designed to protect the face from the sun and extreme conditions such as wind, snow and cold. The dermatologicallytested formulation features UV-A and UV-B filters along with protection against infrared rays (see page 50), which are also responsible for lack of firmness and elasticity; a powerful antioxidant complex; and a Tan Activator Complex to promote tanning thanks to its melanin-boosting effect. Just Herbs Sunpro Aloe-Tulsi Sun Protective Cream is described as a nourishing cream with an inbuilt natural sun protection that not only prevents the oxidative damage from frequent sun exposure but also forms a protective barrier against pollution, microbial attacks and UV rays, thus keeping the skin s natural defence mechanism on the alert. The 99.3% natural, ayurvedic, paraben-free and hypoallergenic product is Ecocert approved. The relaunched Haba UV Cut Milk 47, previously known as UV Cut Milk 45, has a new pack design and stronger sun protection of SPF 47/PA+++. The fragrance-free, limited edition product with its water-resistant formulation creates a soft focus effect designed for extended outdoor activities. Additional information can be found on the Internet - see Internet panel Vivienne Rudd Head of Beauty and Personal Care Insight, Mintel London, UK Empório Body Store s Tan Prolonging Bar Soap enhanced with extracts of carrot, beetroot and annatto Lancaster s winter range promotes tanning even in winter thanks to its melanin-boosting effect Haba s limited edition product creates a soft focus effect for long time outdoor activities Joy s four-step beauty regime is to fade out blemishes, spots and pigmentation marks The ayurvedic nourishing cream from Just Herbs with an inbuilt natural sun protection photos: Mintel COSSMA 1-2I

14 MARKETING MARKETS Germany: Personal and household care Small sales increase in 2013 The markets for personal care and household care products grew slightly once again in 2013 according to the IKW*. The market for personal care products grew by 0.6 percent to reach 12.9 billion Euros, whilst the household care products market grew by 0.2 percent to 4.3 billion Euros. In her lifetime the German woman consumes, on average, 933 lipsticks [1] and per second, worldwide, 23 lipsticks [2] are bought [1] [2] 4?page=16-lippenstift-4?page=16 Foto: Malyugin, Shutterstock.com Cosmetics and toiletries are once again on an upward trend, with consumers spending 12.9 billion Euros in This is 77 million Euros, or 0.6 percent more than in Within this market the two major sectors of hair care plus skin and facial care grew by an above average rate of 1.2 percent and 0.8 percent respectively. Hair care was the category with the biggest turnover with sales of 3.05 billion and represented, with 23.7 percent, around one quarter of the cosmetics and toiletries market. The second biggest category was once again skin and facial care, which grew to take 21.8 percent of the market with sales of 2.81 billion Euros. What were the trends seen in new product launches in 2013? Innovative new products and new market sectors were very much what gave these two categories a new stimulus. In particular oil-based products were a feature of the new launches. This trend, which recently so strongly dominated the hair care sector, has now entered the body care, hair colorant and facial care products sectors, and is even appearing in the selective products market. A real driver of growth was the colour cosmetics category. With around one tenth of the market (11.2 percent) and a turnover of 1.43 billion Euros this category established itself firmly as the third biggest market. In 2013 consumers invested 47 million Euros in lipstick, make-up etc., namely 3.4 percent more than last year. Increased sales and positive price The economic situation movements contributed significantly to this growth in turnover. Falling average prices brought about by increased sales promotions are, however, responsible for the weak growth in sales of oral and dental care products, deodorants and bath and shower products. Oral and tooth care increased to 1.38 billion Euros and, like colour Downloads Additional information at qr00211 or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for February: User name: cossma2 Password: sun cosmetics, represented just over 10 percent of the market. There were some slight falls in sales of men s and women s fragrances, soaps and syndets, after-shaves and pre-shaves, plus other shaving care products, foot care and depilatories. However, sales of women s fragrances at 1.05 billion Euros still hold about 8 percent of the total market. The slight reduction in this sector is explained by Against a background of a difficult economic situation in Europe Information Resources interviewed 26,000 buyers in 9 European countries about their buying habits. Whilst the most important factor for consumers of both types of product was the price, and those consumers, when buying cosmetics, put the specific brand in second place. In contrast, when it comes to household products, the German consumer puts environmentally friendly products in second place. The factor with the lowest influence, in both product categories, is product image. Only 14 percent of all buyers of cosmetic products and 11 percent of all buyers of household care products mentioned this as a factor that in any way influenced their decision. It is clear from these figures that consumers in Germany are still influenced very much by product price particularly in tough economic times. Interestingly enough they are also prepared to spend a bit more money for brands that they trust. This characteristic came through regardless of whether the trusted product was being specially promoted or not. 14 COSSMA 1-2I2014

15 MARKETS MARKETING photo: Wallenrock, Shutterstock.com Potential for colour cosmetics the fact that in the first half-year there were not so many new product launches as in the previous year. Instead the majority of new launches were saved for the Christmas selling period. Foot care products, which had already suffered a fall of 4 percent in 2012, fell once again last year by 3.9 percent to 146 million Euro. This is blamed on the very short summer which led to the subject of foot care being rather neglected. Whilst in 2012 sales of soaps and syndets stagnated there was actually a fall in sales of 3.3 percent to 354 million in This is seen as a result of the success of shower creams, which do not come under the shower products category but rather under skin care products. There was here an increase in sales of trial sets using various fragrances and functions for cleansing products, as well as small travel packs and to a certain extent the larger packs such as often sold by ownbrand retailers. However both factors led to the sharing of sales between the product sectors which ultimately equalled each other out. In Germany one billion items of washing-up are done each day Source: Prof. Dr. Rainer Stamminger, Universität Bonn Trends in the colour cosmetics market are the entry level brands offered at attractive prices, and brands launched by make-up artists, explains Rolf Sigmund, deputy chairman of the IKW and speaker for L Oréal Germany. A clear trend in the USA right now is that such brands, with special products in the colour sector, are covering 40 percent of the market whereas here in Germany these products hold only a 7.5 percent market share. So we can assume that there is plenty of room for expansion in Germany. Marketing also plays an important role when make-up demonstrations are used to show just what such products can achieve. Great potential for colour products promoted by make-up artists? photo: Africa Studio, Shutterstock.com photo: Samran Wonglakorn, Shutterstock.com Precious oils for hair care setting a new trend Household care products grew by a minimum The market for household care products grew in 2013 by 11 million Euros, or 0.2 percent, to hit 4.3 billion Euros. The two biggest product categories here grew by a clear figure. General and colour laundry products grew by 0.6 percent and cleaning products grew by 0.9 percent. Laundry products clearly have the highest sales turnover in this market sector with a share of more than 25 percent. If we add to this figure products such as fabric conditioners and other special washing powders the sector adds up in total to almost half of the market. Conditioners enjoyed positive growth, with the premium market driving sales, and with own-brand products losing importance. Whilst the sales increase in laundry products can be attributed to more packages being sold, the cleaning products category succeeded with more user-friendly convenience products. Cleaning products are in fact the second biggest sector with one fifth of the total market. Washing-up products and dishwasher powders, at 702 million Euros, represent about one seventh of the market. Car care products enjoyed a 1.2 percent growth but room fresheners and washing aids saw sales fall slightly. For 2014 the IKW expects to see in both of the major categories (toiletries and household care) a further slight growth of between 0.2 percent and 0.5 percent. * IKW Industrieverband Körperpflege und Waschmittel (The German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association) The above figures, an estimate by the IKW of market size and consumer prices, are based on data from January to September 2013 and taken from Information Resources (IRI). Further information can be found on the Internet (see Internet panel) photo: Monika Wisniewska, Shutterstock.com Laundry products: ever more compact Since 1975 traditional washing powder has become a lot more compact. In 1975 one needed 275 grams of powder for a washing machine load of 4.5 kilos, and in 1998 the figure was just about 150 grams. Today 80 grams is enough, or 67 grams for super-compact powders. This means that, in comparison with 1975, only about a quarter of the washing powder is being used. The result of this is that costs savings are being made in the use of packaging material as well as transport costs. More than 75 % less washing powder for a standard load than was needed 40 years ago Andreas Lange Managing Director, IKW Frankfurt a.m. Deutschland alange@ikw.org Rainer Anskinewitsch Managing Director Information Resources Düsseldorf, Deutschland rainer.anskinewitsch@iriworldwide.com COSSMA 1-2I

16 MARKETING PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Trends in cosmeceuticals The trend of mainstream brands making strong efficacy claims has shifted towards skin-care competing with medical treatments Imogen Matthews talks about the latest trends and the changing interpretation of products marketed today as cosmeceuticals. According to Datamonitor*, cosmeceuticals are topical beauty products which are formulated with ingredients that can influence the biological functions of the body, and are a cross between topical pharmaceuticals and cosmetic products. Originally, the term cosmeceutical was applied to dermatological and doctor skincare brands with a strong medical heritage, but nowadays many mainstream brands are pushing the boundaries with cosmetic products containing active ingredients and making bolder claims. The word cosmeceutical was first coined by a US cosmetic scientist called Raymond Reed in 1962 and was later built on by Prof. Albert Kligman. According to the Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 13, , 1962, a cosmeceutical was defined as: a scientifically-designed product intended for external application to the human body producing a useful, desired result having desirable aesthetic properties meeting rigid chemical, physical, and medical standards Modified definitions This definition may seem quite clear, but over the years it has taken on different meanings as cosmetics companies have adopted a cosmeceutical stance for their products, particularly in the area of anti-ageing. According to Carrie Mellage, vice president, consumer products, Kline & Company, the term is so ill-defined that there is no classification for it in any of their reports. The term, originally coined by Dr. Albert Kligman, encompasses products that have drug-like benefits and perform some transformative change to humans. This would technically include all anti-ageing products, skin whiteners/brighteners, acne aids, whitening toothpastes, tooth-whitening systems, anti-cellulite products photo: Konstantin Yuganov, Shutterstock.com and anti-perspirants, etc., she explains. Although it is used commonly today to refer only to anti-ageing products, which is not really accurate. Despite a lack of clarity, Kline roughly estimate the global cosmeceuticals market to be approximately $75 billion at manufacturer levels in The driving force is mainly anti-ageing products claiming radiance, skin firming, brightening, colour correction and wrinkle reduction. Nikola Matic, industry manager, chemicals and materials at Kline, explains how these claims are achieved. Since cosmeceuticals are basically products that are presented as very active, the marketing story is also built on active ingredients, thereby necessitating the active ingredients to have this high performance image, supported by strong claims, as well as by data. Synthetic peptides used to be the active ingredients of choice for cosmeceuticals due to their high-tech nature. Of course other products can be used, but in this sector the efficacy is more important than anything else e.g. naturalness, he explains. A few years ago, Wendy Lewis, industry skin-care consultant, presented a paper at the In-Cosmetics trends presentations and discussed the trend for cosmeceutical-lite products, referring to mainstream brands which made strong efficacy claims for their products. Ramaa Chipalkatti, Analyst at Datamonitor, affirms that this trend is still prevalent today, although the term cosmeceutical is rarely used. Instead, the focus has shifted towards skin-care competing with medical treatments, leading to new skin-care terminology such as L Oréal Paris Revitalift Laser Renew and Clinique Repairwear Laser Focus. Cosmeceuticals have become an alternative, or, indeed, a stepping stone towards more invasive treatment 16 COSSMA 1-2I2014

17 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT MARKETING options. One example is Clinique Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector. It is promoted as being comparable or equal in efficacy to a leading prescription ingredient, explains Chipalkatti. While other brands have targeted consumers skin tone concerns, none make such comparative claims. Such strong expressions of proof aim to give sceptical beauty buyers more confidence that a given brand is more effective. Another example is Origins Plantscription, also an Estée Lauder brand, which claims regenerative antiageing properties inspired by the science of cellular plant regeneration. The brand explicitly suggests that Plantscription is a natural alternative to more costly and potentially invasive anti-wrinkle prescriptions such as retinoids or derivatives of vitamin A, or an injection. While bringing criticism, the message has seemingly resonated with consumers as indicated by the huge success enjoyed by this product, states Chipalkatti. Datamonitor has noted other examples of cosmeceutical launches in sun care, hair care and beauty drinks: Sunology Sunscreen is a US brand promoted as a sunscreen for skin that prefers no chemicals. It claims to be the world s first and only sun care product containing VitaOleféra, a natural moringa oil complex in combination with soy bean oil and soy glyceride, naturally derived from ferulic acid a known antioxidant. Sun & Sports Shampoo by Green People is an anti-chlorine and UV repair natural shampoo designed to protect hair from an active lifestyle and contains the fairly traded ingredients ginger root oil, lemon grass leaf oil and clove bud oil. Ocòo The Beauty Drink by Ocòo (UAE) claims anti-ageing, skin-care and hair-care benefits and encourages collagen production by supplying the deepest layers of your skin with a proper daily dose of nutrients from the inside. The drink features super-fruit ingredients such as pomegranate, açai berry, aronia, cranberries, blackcurrants and red grapes. The brand also claims to offer vital substances for the hair, due to its biotin trace which contributes to maintaining normal hair, as well as copper which contributes to normal hair pigmentation. The future of cosmeceuticals looks increasingly interesting following the industry s investment in the performance and efficacy criteria of active ingredients with new technologies such as epigenetics, and with stem cell applications on the horizon. Steve Barton*, skin-care consultant to the health and beauty industry, maintains: We are getting to know more about what existing cosmetics can do with the physiology of the skin, even at the genetic level. It was previously believed that we could not play with genetics, but that view is now changing. However, he warns that product claims should not build unrealistic consumer expectations, such as reversing the effects of ageing. A lot of work is needed to show that by using products it is possible to see change, but much still The future of cosmeceuticals is characterised by new technologies such as epigenetics and stem cell applications needs to be done to match consumer expectations with claims. Datamonitor s 2013 global consumer research backs up Barton s views, with nearly four consumers in ten saying they considered claims that beauty products are backed by science to be trustworthy. It is therefore vital for brands to highlight these statements in order to give greater credibility to cosmeceutical claims. *Datamonitor, Kline Group and Steve Barton will participate in next year s trends presentations at in-cosmetics. Further information at Imogen Matthews In-Cosmetics Consultant Oxford UK photo: Palau, Shutterstock.com

18 MARKETING INGREDIENTS Mango butter Fruity, and exotic What has bio-certified mango butter to offer in cosmetics? Maria Kaiser describes the demands to be met in the production of this ingredient and talks about its advantages in use. It was only in 2013 that mango butter became available as a bio-certified ingredient for cosmetics. It was first developed by All Organic Trading (AOT) in 2011, working with their partners BurkiNature of Burkina Faso and Nateco 2 in Germany. Mango butter in natural cosmetics Mango butter is so highly prized in its action that it is particularly applicable for regenerative cosmetics. Because medical publications have highlighted the healing properties of mango butter it is of use in products for sensitive skin. Downloads Additional information at qr00210 or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for February: User name: cossma2 Password: sun It is often used as a thickener in lip care, colour cosmetics and facial care products. In moisturising sun protection and after-sun products its cooling action is highly regarded. Mango butter has a more moist and lighter character than other comparable butters, it is more quickly absorbed by the skin, leaving photo: MidoSemsem, Shutterstock.com Mango butter from mango kernels, used as a consistency regulator also has a cooling effect on sensitive skin no film. Because it melts at normal body temperature, and is well accepted, it is successfully used for body butter products. In addition its nourishing and regenerative actions are ideal for use in the treatment of dry hair. Presented properly to the consumer it awakens positive associations of exotic applications. Biological compared with conventional mango butter Mango butter today is a very popular ingredient in cosmetics, and which, in bio-quality, has been well, and transparently, documented as a highly sought-after alternative to the conventional, chemically extracted product. Because the mango kernel, which has no oil seeds, has a very low fat con- International and innovative product development Over a 2-year development process All Organic Trading (AOT), working closely, and actively exchanging technical knowledge, with the local partners BurkiNature and Nateco 2 ensuring that all stages in the supply chain are at an optimum level and meet the requirements of the cosmetics industry. The growers and teams of women, right through to the extraction of the bio-certified and clearly specified mango butter, have all invested their skills in the supply chain from the kernel to the cosmetic ingredient, in an effort to improve their lives. The family organisation of the bio-sector, closely led by the company founder Hans-Martin Breisinger, has furthermore, and over a long time, developed the oil from bio-certified pomegranates as an ingredient for natural cosmetics. tent conventional mango butter is obtained by a solvent extraction process using hexane. This efficient, but not totally risk-free process, results in a high oil yield which, however, calls for subsequent chemical refinement. This refinement removes all of the contamination and residues which could have been introduced via the mango juice, caused by an unsuitable drying process whilst in tropical conditions, by transport residues or by using conventional plant production methods etc. It is often used to compensate for errors in processing. Contrary to this, biological mango butter requires optimum processing right along the value chain in order to meet the required, and/or self-imposed, parameters in the specification. But if residue and contamination cannot find their way into the product then there is no need for their subsequent removal. Mango kernels of a biological quality thus represent the ideal basis for CO 2 extraction, a physical process that is carried out in Germany. This process, that is carried out at low temperatures, was adapted, working together with Nateco 2, to suit the processing of the mango kernel. CO 2 acts as a neutral gas 18 COSSMA 1-2I2014

19 and is even anti-oxidative. CO 2 extraction, as a very gentle process, is well suited to sensitive speciality oils with a low fat content. Thus the mango butter needs neither post treatment nor refining, and all of the heat sensitive ingredients are retained. The multi-talented mango In Burkina Faso the mangos are picked at their optimum stage of ripeness and are post-ripened by the processors in order that they can be immediately processed at an absolute perfect ripeness and a full aroma. 300 bio-mango growers have been with the BurkiNature organisation for 10 years. As a by-product there is a surplus of dried mango kernel. Using this basic ingredient of the mango butter there are only four specially selected processing plants where the perfect kernels are picked out. They are immediately gently dried in order to retain all of the positive features for the end product and to avoid any risk of contamination. Groups of women around the city of Bobo-Dioulasso in the South West of Burkina Faso support the farmers, who generally work on subsistence land, by carefully saving the mango kernels and using them to create small works of art. Using the kernel as a new product, which had previously no real use, has created additional work and PROCESSES AND PACKAGING LEADING TRADE FAIR Biologically produced mango butter does not need any post treatment or refining. All of the heat sensitive ingredients are retained source of income. Working together like this, the groups of women are able to take part in international trade. This type of organisation is also having a positive impact in stopping the flight to the cities, which was formerly seen as the only escape from poverty. Although migration to the cities was mainly something done by men, today we can see large numbers of young women and girls who have been obliged to seek a housemaid s job in the city. Training courses are an important part of the corporate culture in Burkina Faso but in many country areas over 90% of the people cannot read or write. A literature list and further information on mango butter, as well as a podcast, can be found on the Internet (see Internet panel) photo: AOT DÜSSELDORF, GERMANY MAY 2014 C0SMETICS.INTERPACK.COM ELIXIR FOR COSMETICS PRODUCERS Maria Kaiser Consultant, Kaiserqualität agency for plant-based raw materials Stuttgart, Germany kaiser@kaiserqualitaet.de Messe Düsseldorf GmbH Postfach _ Düsseldorf _ Germany Tel. +49(0)211/ _ Fax +49(0)211/

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21 Star of the Month New polymer for cosmetics... INGREDIENTS MARKETING... with added experience Croda s Volarest FL our Star of the Month is a polymer that can produce interesting characteristics of very different textures in emulsions and aqueous systems. For example sprayable creams are controlled and applied exactly where required, and emollients and beads can appear to be suspended, weightless, in low viscosity formulations. With this polymer, high viscosity systems that are difficult to thin down can be used, and at the end of the application will immediately recover their structure. And so what is the use of this suspension effect in sprayable formulations? The polymer helps produce, in small concentrated sprays, a very fine and even spray particle size and a good viscosity build-up at low concentrations, with no drips from the target area. The current approach to the formulation of aqueous systems is based on the fact that the suspension effect allows the oil and the active substance to be suspended in liquid, low viscosity gels and so offer visually appealing products to the consumer. Water lotions are an emerging trend from the Asia-Pacific region. Water lotions are based on a simple concept, i.e. the clear cosmetic is used after cleaning the skin in order to effectively moisturise the skin. Although the moisturising action is the key feature of these products consumers expect other benefits. Using the new polymer, products can be created in this new sector which offer to the consumer de- New polymer for interesting textures in visually appealing cosmetic products sired characteristics such as anti-ageing, the prevention of pigmentation spots and tight, shining skin. Using the Volarest FL polymer, textures can be created which thanks to their sensory properties, their appearance and their applications will enhance their value as products offering a special experience. Source: Croda; photos: Croda Bayer MaterialScience AG, Leverkusen, Germany MS Come and visit us! in-cosmetics Hamburg 1 3 April 2014 Booth 1K20 Entirely new possibilities for sun care products: Baycusan C 1000 s excellent stabilizing properties allow emulsifier-free formulation. This results in an ex tremely pleasant skin feel and much better water resistance. In addition, when combined with certain UV-B filters, Baycusan C 1000 shows an SPF boosting effect. Increase the performance of your product with Baycusan C Please visit us at for further information. IMPROVE PERFORMANCE: FORMULATE EMULSIFIER-FREE POLYURETHANES FOR COSMETICS

22 MARKETING INGREDIENTS Natural cosmetics A close look at traditional actives Traditional natural cosmetics do in fact constitute the cradle of modern cosmetics all of the cosmetics formulations handed down to us are based on natural ingredients from the animal, plant or mineral kingdoms. Prof. Dr. Heike Raddatz gives us an overview of plants that have a long tradition in cosmetics and also makes it clear that there is still a lot of research to be done into the wide range of plant-based actives. The ginseng root, known as a carrier of Chi, the energy of life, is also used in skin and hair care products photo: Chinaview, Shutterstock Plants, and products obtained from them, have been used for many years to meet the demands for effective cosmetic actives. Right from the oldest times this has been handed down, even in the dark middle ages. All of the world s cultures have handed down the ways to obtain resins, waxes and oils for use in cosmetics, as well as the production and use of plant extracts As a way of extracting the required substances natural solvents such as water, wine or beer were used. Today we are at a stage of automatically using hygienic cosmetic preparations. As part of the advancing state of modern technology an increasing number of people feel isolated and overwhelmed by technology, and are seeking their own identity a search which is drawing them to nature and natural ideals. As a result many of the plants used in medicine and cosmetics are being rediscovered, or are enjoying a renaissance. Plants with a long tradition Among the native plants whose contents and whose cosmetic effects have been most investigated must surely be arnica, chamomile and marigold. Arnica was already used centuries ago in Germany as an aid to healing wounds and since 1819 has been a subject of scientific research. It was one of the most important plants used by barbers, and Hildegard of Bingen is said to have used arnica, under the name of Wolf s bane, for healing purposes. The marigold (or calendula) was mainly used historically for the production of make-up and was also described by old authors such as Discorides and Pliny, and also by Paracelsus and Hildegard of Bingen, as a healing lotion for use on wounds. In the 19 th Century the calendula reached a high point in its use in medicines. Following this, the plant was largely forgotten by medical practitioners, but was still regularly used in folk medicine as an infusion until it was rediscovered Downloads Additional information at qr00209 or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for February: User name: cossma2 Password: sun for its anti-inflammatory properties and started a real boom in demand. One of the favorite cosmetically active plants in Germany is chamomile. It was already described centuries ago by, amongst others, Hippocrates, as a soothing, healing ointment for the skin. The essential oil acquired from this plant was admitted, in 1587/88, in the medicinal listing of the city of Frankfurt. Today cosmetics is unthinkable without this ingredient. In general the common names of many plants reflect their traditional importance*. Plants from other cultures have also now established a firm place for themselves in cosmetics. These include particularly the aloe, native to Africa, which already in the middle ages was finding its way into Europe in monastic books on herbs, and today is firmly established in the skin care sector. This is also the case with the Far Eastern Ginseng mandrake plant whose prop- 22 COSSMA 1-2I2014

23 INGREDIENTS MARKETING Arnica, chamomile and marigold are included in the most researched of domestic plants and having effective ingredients and actions photos: MilousK, Liliia Rudchenko, Tr3gin erties have been for many years a basic objective in scientific research. Discovered some 5,000 years ago in the mountains of today s Chinese province of Jilin, the root has been seen as a provider of Chi, the essential vitality of life, and has enjoyed a really triumphant time. The best ginseng was kept for the Chinese emperor. Today many Chinese families keep a small ration of this root at home. Cosmetics extracts of the root are used in skin and hair care products. A wide range of plant-based actives Plant-based actives for skin care are drawn from a very wide selection of products found in nature. In terms of arnica it is mainly the esters of the sesquiterpene lactones from the pseudoguaianolide type. With marigold, skin care actives are pentacyclic triterpene alcohols, as well as antimicrobial flavonoids, loliolid and various terpene alcohols. The skin care ingredients in chamomile chamazulene, The origins of beauty care The desire to look good and be well presented is as old as mankind. Excavation of stone age sites have shown us, among other things, yellow and ochre-coloured rock powder which was used as a sort of universal make-up. In the beginnings of human civilization the use of cosmetic products was closely linked to ritual processes and reserved for the privileged classes, or for use in selected festivals. However, in ancient Egypt for instance, there was clearly expressed desire from all levels of society for personal care and hygiene products. bisabolol and its oxides, and spiroether have been well-known for many years. The most important actives in Aloe include the aloe resins and various polysaccharides. The ginseng root is of interest thanks to the adaptogenically active ginsenoside as well as the antiphlogistic and antimicrobial polyacetylene. Although so far we have not discussed by any means all of the plantbased ingredients it is clear that plants inspire the use of modern actives for skin care that cannot be ignored, such as the antiphlogistically active alphabisabolol from chamomile. Nature as a teacher With regard to plants, as we have said, there is still a high level of need for more research. Today we are still a long way from having uncovered all of the secrets of plants. The broad (bio)chemical structures of plants, that bring about their metabolism, is awesome, and teaches us to see the world as a whole. We are shown that cosmetic or pharmaceutical actions cannot always be ascribed to one single substance, but that in many cases the blend is highly relevant. We must in no way turn our backs on this wide range, even if there is a natural need for more discussion about side-effects such as allergies to fragrances. As a producer of cosmetics one would very much like a standardized, constant and unchanging quality of raw materials and ingredients. But Mother Nature will not be restricted by a corset! With plant-based ingredients we have to be aware of variations and differences in their origin and detailed make-up. Since today there is still no clear definition of natural cosmetics there are ingredients offered for cosmetics in the widest range of formats. Alongside the classic aqueous and ethanol-based tinctures there are, for example, extracts with isopropanol, various glycols, carbon dioxide, and mineral or plant oils, all available on the market. In some cases carriers such as dextrine are included. This wide variation means, as well as natural variations depending on the plant concerned, a good deal of variation in the active profile. Even then time period, and careful cultivation and handling of the plant during harvest, have significant influence on the quality and active content. Dosis sola venenum facit Despite the current euphoria, with plant-based ingredients we still have to think of the above saying of Paracelsus of Hohenheim, i.e. (the dose makes the poison) If we were to overdose a fragrance, or commercially available tinctures, it could result in unpleasant side effects such as allergic reactions. This has been well-documented in the case of many plants. But these side effects should not deter us from an intensive research into plant-based actives and to make them accessible. Plants are full of real treasures! * Additional information and the literature list can be found on th Internet, (see Internet panel) Prof. Dr. rer. nat. Heike Raddatz (Food Technology) Trier University of Applied Science Germany raddatz@hochschule-trier.de COSSMA 1-2I

24 PRODUCTION INGREDIENTS Strategy against skin ageing and sensitive skin Anti-inflammatory skin care An interesting active ingredient that eases inflammatory processes Dr. Stefan Bänziger from Rahn shows that Defensil Plus not only relieves sensitivity and itching, but also supports the recovery of the irritated skin barrier. According to recent findings, inflammatory processes in the skin are a cause of skin ageing. This has given rise to the buzzwords such as inflammation ageing (or inflamm-ageing) becoming ever more popular. Cosmetic actives that reduce inflammatory processes can not only slow down skin ageing but may also help to normalise sensitive skin. What is inflamm-ageing and sensitive skin? The body s way of protecting itself against potentially harmful substances is to trigger inflammation. Inflammatory processes, however, can have a significant impact on skin ageing. This fact is reflected in the term inflammageing or inflammation ageing 1. It is essential to be able to fend off foreign substances with acute inflammatory reactions, especially at a young age. Intense inflammation reactions considerably improve the chances of survival against pathogens and enable people to survive, at least until the end of their reproductive phase. With advancing age, we pay the price for this defence system because the disadvantages gradually prevail. As the immune system produces more in- Active ingredient with soothing effect in atopic eczema flammatory messengers with increasing age it is now believed that inflammatory reactions prevent successful ageing. The imbalance favours inflammation. It is not characterised by classical, acute inflammations, but rather underlying, on-going processes which permanently stress the skin and slowly but inexorably cause damage. One could also describe this effect as a smouldering in the skin. Skin ageing gains momentum and successful ageing is made more difficult. Sensitive skin is characterised by an easy-to-disturb barrier and overreaction to stimuli 2,3. The skin is continu- Implications of sensitive skin Sensitive skin has a great commercial importance, as > 50% of respondents suffer from sensitive skin and report subjective discomfort but do not necessarily exhibit visible symptoms of skin irritation. The main causes of sensitive skin are excessive inflammatory responses, compounded by a weak skin barrier and with a tendency to react hyper-sensitively. Inflammatory reactions are a particular issue for skin with a damaged or weak barrier. This promotes uncomfortable sensations, such as itching, leading to a vicious cycle and chronic progression. The consequences can range from accelerated inflamm-ageing and premature skin ageing to impaired quality of life and serious skin diseases. Sensitive skin needs inflammation-relieving skin care that not only reduces irritated inflammatory processes, but also helps replenish and stabilise the physiological skin barrier. photo: Konstantin Yuganov, Shutterstock.com ously in a defence mode and under - lying, chronic inflammatory reactions are constantly taking place. As a result, the skin condition deteriorates rapidly and inflamm-ageing occurs. Active ingredients for sensitive skin should therefore not only have anti-inflammatory properties, but also help to maintain the skin s barrier and reduce sensitivity. Defensil-Plus is an active ingredient that meets these requirements. First-aid kit for irritable skin This active ingredient is a first-aid kit to alleviate stressed, sensitive and irritable skin. The special properties of blackcurrant seed oil 4 and balloon vine extract 5 in combination with sunflower oil concentrate 6 effectively reduce inflammatory processes and replenish the damaged skin barrier. The active ingredient soothes acute inflammatory reactions such as razor burn or allergic response to mosquito bites, as well as persistent inflammatory processes caused by chemicals, such as SLS 24 COSSMA 1-2I2014

25 INGREDIENTS PRODUCTION (found in laundry products), or skin conditions such as atopic eczema 7. Atopic eczema, usually accompanied by severe itching, is an inflammatory skin disorder with recurrent episodes and chronic progression. The disorder often begins in early childhood with an 8 to 16% incidence in this age group. This disorder is on the rise and within the last 50 years, the number of incidences has quintupled! The aim of the general treatment is to reduce individual and non-specific provocation factors, replenishing lipids, curbing inflammation, and relieving itchiness 8. Decreasing symptoms of atopic dermatitis 34 subjects (8 men and 26 women aged between 17 and 60) with slight, suitable eczema areas participated in the study. A cream containing 3% of the active ingredient was applied twice (arms, legs, trunk) and four times (hands) daily in the area of the lesions over a 2-week period. Inflamm-ageing With age, the balance between pro- and anti-inflammatory signalling pathways shifts towards a pro-inflammatory environment. Likewise, there also is a pro-inflammatory imbalance in sensitive skin. The resulting chronic, underlying inflammatory condition is described by the term inflamm-ageing and is suspected to be the basis for a variety of age-related diseases. If the inflammatory processes are reduced, there is not only a positive effect on ageing and skin ageing, but it can also help to normalise sensitive skin. On days 0, 7, and 14, an objective assessment (local SCORAD) of the skin condition was carried out by a dermatologist and a subjective assessment (itchiness) was carried out by the subject. The subjects also assessed their quality of life before and after use and cosmetic acceptability at the end of the study by filling in a questionnaire. The result was that the local SCORAD, i.e. the sum of various parameters scoring the severity of atopic dermatitis, decreased from 7.0 to 4.4 (-37%) within just 7 days of use and to 3.74 (-47%) within 14 days. In particular, a reduction of itchiness was noted (not shown) and there was visible relief. Subjective discomfort was also clearly reduced during the observation period. The active ingredient provided evidence that itchiness and other negative effects on the quality of life were Downloads Additional information at qr00207 or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for February: User name: cossma2 Password: sun reduced on average by approx. 40%. The cosmetic acceptability of the product was also high. To conclude, Defensil-Plus is suitable for adjunctive skin care in the treatment of atopic skin: By easing inflammatory processes the active ingredient not only relieves sensitivity and itching, but also supports the recovery of the irritated skin barrier. The active ingredient compensates for lipid deficits in the outermost layers of the skin and assists in soothing inflammatory processes and so counteracts the underlying causes of skin disorders, inflamm-ageing, and discomfort. Literature and further information can be found on the Internet (see Internet panel) Improvement in skin condition after the use of Defensil-Plus Dr. Stefan Bänziger PhD, Head of R&D Cosmetic Actives, with Brigit Suter Roman Ott, Barbara Obermayer BaenzigerS@rahn-group.com Tailor-made solutions for your communication! PRINT I ONLINE I TV I LIVE

26 PRODUCTION MACHINES AND EQUIPMENT Different surfactant combinations Foam isn t just foam Can the foaming behaviour of conventional commercial surfactant blends be differentiated using an automated foam tester? Sarah Hokamp and Prof. Dr. Thomas Gassenmeier from the University of Applied Sciences Ostwestfalen-Lippe offer some answers to this question. Aproduct s good foaming action is an important criterion in the personal care and home care sector. Depending on the product category, and the claims made, the requirements of the products may be very different from each other. A shampoo or shower mousse, for example, is expected to foam up quickly and strongly because the consumer equates this with a high cleansing performance and the foam makes a significant contribution to the sensory evaluation and acceptance of the product. For fabric and dishwashing detergents, on the other hand, a build-up of foam should be strictly avoided. Various apparatus and processes are used to characterise foam and to measure its volume. Classic manual methods require the level of the foam has to be read off. This procedure however has plenty of opportunity for errors. To measure the foaming performance of aqueous surfactant solutions for use in cosmetics there are also automated foam testers available such photo: Prill, Shutterstock.com An important criterion is that a toiletry, washing or cleaning product foams up well as the Sita R-2000 Foam Tester or the Dynamic Foam Analyzer DFA 100 from Krüss: Do these automated foam testers produce real and reliable results such as are needed in the development of a new product? Using a Sita R-2000 Foam Tester a fully automated series of tests can be carried out. The test samples are automatically loaded from the bulk container and the foam is created by a rotor. The height of the foam is measured by a sensor module with needle detectors and the device is then automatically cleaned. Using the software options it is possible to collect data concerning characteristics of surfactant based solutions like speed of foam formation, foaming capacity, maximum volume of the foam, its stability and its density. Using the equipment individual parameters for each measurement can be set1, depending on which product is being tested and which foaming behaviour is expected. We selected currently the surfactants Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Coco Glucoside and Sodium Coco-Sulfate, which are widely used in the cosmetics field, as well as combinations of these. As typical functional additives we analysed effects Table 1: Surfactants and additives used resulting from the addition of the refatting agent Glyceryl Oleate and Coco Glucoside and the cationic conditioning polymer Polyquaternium-10 (see tab. 1 and 2). All of the test solutions were set at an active concentration of 500 mg/l in order to obtain comparable data. How were the tests run? With the Sita R-2000 Foam Tester parameters such as the rotor speed, number of stirring cycles, timing of the stirring action, and temperature, can be set. In the test series we used 20 stirring periods, each lasting 10 seconds, in order to reach a specific Downloads Additional information at qr00203 or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for February: User name: cossma2 Password: sun plateau level. The temperature setting of 40 C corresponds to conditions in a domestic shower. In a first set of tests we wanted to establish the most suitable rotary speed for the stirrer to differentiate the surfactant solutions. Therefore, we selected Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Coco Glucoside, which because of their anionic and non-ionic characters also exhibit different foam performances. At a rotary speed of 1,200 rpm there is a clear difference between the way that the foam is formed. A speed of 1,400 rpm also gives good differentiation and after 4 stirring periods the plateau is reached by the Sodium Laureth Sulfate. Based on these results the series of tests was carried out at 1,200 rpm and 40 C. INCI Trade name (Company) WAS Abbreviation 1 Sodium Laureth Sulfate Texapon NSO (BASF) 28 % SLES 2 Coco Glucoside Plantacare 818 UP (BASF) 51 % CG 3 Cocamidopropyl Betaine TegoBetaine L7 (Evonik) 30 % CAPB 4 Sodium Coco-Sulfate Sulfopon 1216 G (BASF) 94 % SCS 5 Polyquaternium-10 Ucare JR-400 Polymer PQ-10 (Dow Chemicals) 6 Glyceryl Oleate (and) Lamesoft PO 65 (BASF) GMO/CG Coco Glucoside 7 Fat blend: FM Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Paraffinum liquidum, Petrolatum, Coconut Oil, Oleylalcohol, Lanolin Oil 26 COSSMA 1-2I2014

27 MACHINES AND EQUIPMENT PRODUCTION These results achieved from machine settings providing good foam differentiatiation cannot, however, be regarded as a general rule. The results depend on the type and quantity of the surfactant and/or products, and so the appropriate machine settings must be adjusted individually each time for different questions. As important, commercially used, surfactant combinations we used a mixture of Sodium Laureth Sufate and Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Variant C) as well as the alternative Sodium Coco-Sulfate and Coco Glucoside (Variant D). Both of the surfactant blends have a similar foaming behaviour when demineralised water is used. With increasing water hardness the foaming performance of the alternative blends is somewhat reduced, because of the sensitivity of Sodium Coco-Sulfate against water hardness. Today commercially available surfactant combinations for cosmetics often contain, apart from the detergents, different functional ingredients. This poses the question of whether the automated tester can identify the impact of additives, which are mostly used in small quantities. From the most popular range of functional additives we selected, as examples, a commonly-used conditioning anionic surfactant-compatible cationic polymer and a refatting compound Furthermore the addition of a blend of fats can have a similar effect to that Table 2: Test solutions Volume in ml Surfactant combinations with fat mixture Influence of the fat blend on the foaming performance of the surfactant combinations C and D of the sebum present in the skin, scalp and hair. The introduction of the cationic polymer Polyquaternium-10 (Ucare JR-400 Polymer) at a level of 0.5% into our surfactant solution is reflected in a reduction of the speed of foam formation. The maximum volume of the foam is hardly affected. If the refatting compound, made from Coco Glucoside (and) Glyceryl Oleate (Lamesoft PO 65), is added to the mixture of Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Cocamidopropyl Betaine in an amount of 2.0% (Variant G), the foaming performance is hardly affected. When, instead the surfactant combination of Coco Glucoside and Sodium Coco-Sulfate is used, it can be seen that the foaming performance falls off due to the addition of the refatting agent. Variant Surfactant combination Blend Additive performance A Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) B Coco Glucoside (CG) C Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)/ Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB) 3:1 D Coco Glucoside (CG)/ Sodium Coco-Sulfate (SCS) 1:1 E Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)/ Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB) 3:1 Polyquaternium-10 (PQ-10) F Coco Glucoside (CG)/ Sodium Coco-Sulfate (SCS) 1:1 Polyquaternium-10 (PQ-10) G Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)/ 3:1 Glyceryl Oleate and Coco Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB) Glucoside (GMO/CG) H Coco Glucoside (CG)/ 1:1 Glyceryl Oleate and Coco Sodium Coco-Sulfate (SCS) Glucoside (GMO/CG) I Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)/ Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB) 3:1 Fatty blend (FM) J Coco Glucoside (CG)/ Sodium Coco-Sulfate (SCS) 1:1 Fatty blend (FM) surfactant combination SLES / CAPB surfactant combination SLES / CAPB + FM surfactant combination CG / SCS surfactant combination CG / SCS + FM stirring period To identify the effect of the fats on the foaming performance the sample solution was each time set with a 400 mg/l fatty blend. This considerably reduced the foam creation performance and the foam volume (see fig.). Advantages of automated foam differentiation The aim of our research was to determine, using an automated foam tester, whether the foam performance of different, well-known surfactant combinations could be differentiated. It was seen that using the right method with the analyser it is basically possible to differentiate today s common surfactants and their combinations with regard to their foam performance, and also to identify the effect of functional additives or natural body fats. Taking into account the importance of the foaming performance on consumer acceptance, this finding is essential for the development process of surfactant-based personal care products. For an optimum opinion regarding consumer relevance the objective assessment of the foaming behaviour can be extended to include sensory assessment and consumer tests. Literature: Schulze. L.: Effizienter Vergleich des Schäumvermögens von tensidhaltigen Lösungen, SEPAWA Kongress 2002, Bad Dürkheim, Germany Additional information can be found on the Internet (see Internet panel) Sarah Hokamp Prof. Dr. Thomas Gassenmeier Ostwestfalen-Lippe high school TKW, Detmold, Germany thomas.gassenmeier@hs-owl.de COSSMA 1-2I

28 medical BEAUTY FORUM forms the bridge between research and its practical application in the fields of aesthetic medicine and cosmetics For a successful partnership: Covers the current state of knowledge and practice for doctors involved with aesthetic procedures and for beauticians Cosmetology, technology or trophology: Carries in-depth and carefully researched professional knowledge and guidance Published 6 times per annum Reaches more than dermatologists, beauticians and plastic surgeons in Germany, Austria and Switzerland Further information: Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Karl-Friedrich-Str Karlsruhe Deutschland Geschäftsführer: Jürgen Volpp Registergericht Mannheim HRB USt-ID: DE

29 INGREDIENTS PRODUCTION Natural skin care New starch ingredient for elegant products Laurie Marshall from AkzoNobel Personal Care describes the advantages of a biodegradable new starch with pleasant aesthetics and designed to be used in a wide variety of formulations. Meeting next-generation formulation needs for skin care products has necessitated the development of ingredients that convey consumer-pleasing formulation aesthetics. Along with elegant formulation properties, ever more natural Downloads Additional information at qr00208 or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for February: User name: cossma2 Password: sun and naturally derived ingredients are sought by both formulators and consumers. The desire for more environmentally responsible ingredients and products continues to drive skin care purchasing behaviour. In a response to this trend AkzoNobel Personal Care launched Dry-Flo TS with the INCI name Tapioca Starch Polymethylsilsesquioxane. Naturally derived from a tapioca starch source, this type of starch provides a silky and powdery after-feel in skin care products. It has a fine particle size, and is non-whitening on the skin. It is a good oil adsorbent and mitigates the greasy and shiny appearance that personal care products can leave on the skin. In addition, hydrophobic modification serves to enhance its performance in formulations, and provide a soft, cushion-like feel on the skin. Since the launch, work on new applications with this ingredient has led to the development of consumer-relevant formulations such as moisturizers, sunscreens, eye treatments, toners, body powders and even dry shampoos, where the oil-adsorbing benefits of this new starch create stand-out performance. The starch, thanks to its wide compatibility with other ingredients, offers a high degree of formulation flexibility. It features a lower coefficient of friction when compared with talc and other aesthetic enhancers. This indicates that when used in personal care formulations the starch will provide better slip and a smooth, silky feel on the skin. The ingredient has a more preferable life cycle analysis profile when compared with synthetic ingredients. It is readily biodegradable, sustainable and non-genetically modified, and has a low protein content. Globally available, Dry-Flo TS starch is a cost-effective ingredient photo: AkzoNobel New naturally derived starch ingredient offers aesthetics that are pleasing to consumers that improves aesthetics in a variety of cosmetic products. It will help the formulator create skin care products that satisfy both the need for superior function and the desire for more natural and sustainable personal care products. Additional information and formulations can be found on the Internet see Internet panel Laurie J. Marshall Global Marketing Manager Personal Care Applications AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry Bridgewater, USA personalcare.marketing@akzonobel.com Ceraparts ANTIA

30 COS1402_30_Pack_News_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB :35 Seite 30 NEW INGREDIENTS NEWS Ingredients photo: Floratech Cost effective biodegradable exfoliant particles Floratech I Ecobeads presented by Floratech USA are low cost biodegradable exfoliant particles which are free from polyethylene and all other types of micronised plastic. The particles were developed for use in soft, gentle exfoliants and are claimed to gently remove the loose outer skin cells and stimulate cell regeneration without irritating the skin. The particles are produced from a combination of plant-based waxes and esters, and are available in a number of different colours, some of which meet natural cosmetics standards. They are approved for sale in all of the main markets. Pigments are added to the components stearyl stearate, euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, and jojoba esters listed in the INCI. Exfoliant particles without polyethylene or other types of micronised plastics Alternatives to essential oils, and more Greentech I Greentech have expanded their extensive range of floral waters. With now almost 50 eco-certified biodistillates, from anis to ylang ylang, manufacturers can increase the biological proportion of their product formulations and give them a gentle fragrance. In addition four new distillates (with propanediol) for NaTrue projects have been approved namely strawberry, peach, vanilla and lime. Furthermore a new antidandruff active called Dandrilys, obtained for the Brazilian shrub Zizyphus juazeiro, is now available. Its action is said to be based on triterpenes such as betulinic acid and saponines and is claimed to produce significantly better results than zinc pyrithione. Floral waters help to increase the biological proportion of product formulations Claimed to produce better results than zinc pyrithione photos: Greentech PRODUCTION Supercritical Extracts by Germany Extracting the Essence of Nature

31 NEW INGREDIENTS PRODUCTION photo: Valentyn Volkov, Shutterstock.com Spider s silk as a cosmetic ingredient AMSilk I According to AMSilk the company has developed the world s first industrial manufacturing process for Spidersilk, a protein which is similar to natural spider s silk. The biocompatible material, used as a building block for super strong fibres, medical devices, and dermatology products, is now also available as a cosmetics ingredient. It is said to be the first functional silk on the market tested and approved for cosmetic formulations. The material adds smoothness and moisture management to the skin, leaving a silky feeling. Formulations using Spidersilk microbeads make the skin appear softer. Besides supplying raw materials to cosmetic manufacturers, AMSilk is also testing a concept study within the European Union for special cosmetic products. Spidersilk adds smoothness and moisture to the skin photo: Merck Targeted treatment of skin redness Merck I The matt and transparent green tone of RonaFlair Balance Green, a cosmetic filler for skin treatment, will reduce the redness of irritated or red skin. To treat different types of skin there is already in the so-called Balance Colors range red, Visible reduction in skin redness gold and blue. The powder products consist of extremely small-sized effect pigments that achieve high coverage without a lustrous appearance and are neither matt nor oily. The active substances are particularly useful on the face, and in particular in anti-acne formulations, concealer sticks and foundation make-up. Thanks to the improved photo-stability the filler is also well presented in packs with transparent windows. DEFENSIL -PLUS 42% MORE QUALITY OF LIFE ATOPIC ECZEMA RAHN AG T F

32 PRODUCTION PACKAGING photo: Yonwoo Sample packaging More and more luxury in demand Samples mimicking their full-sized finished good counterparts Thanks to e-commerce the business of sample packaging is enjoying a real renaissance. New developments and trend statements from industry insiders tell us where this is heading. Yonwoo s Qure for cosmeceutical treatments is a PETG pack with clear transparent walls that look like glass, but will not break. As part of a series, the cap colour could signal the order in which the products are to be used or could indicate skin type. A coffret or presentation box to present these packs can be designed on request. More than thirty-five years ago the Lameplast Group created the first single-dose container that can reduce or eliminate the use of preservatives. It can easily be customized, is versatile and also suitable as a real pack because it guarantees hygiene for the PETG packs for cosmeceutical treatments in a customizable presentation box photo: Fusion Packaging content. The range of single-dose containers in 5-piece strips from 0.3 to 10 ml is available in different materials to contain various types of product, neutral or colored, with fashion colours, sequins, customizable with hot stamping, pad printing, embossed text or labelling. Barbara Reguzzoni, Marketing Manager at Lameplast explains: We have also developed a new multi-layer single-dose container consisting of an inner layer in contact with the product and made of virgin PE, an intermediate layer that can act as a barrier against vapour or oxygen and an outer layer customizable according to the marketing requirements of the customer. The outer layer can be colored, soft touch, ultra-clear or in recycled plastic materials. Sachets can also be used for e-sampling campaigns With their sachet Chameleon the company Bioplan offers its advertisers an improved solution when it comes to samples which have to be glued onto a base. The sachet is placed as closely as possible to the page and becomes an integral part of the design. It can be easily removed, without damaging the page. This concept fits with all formats that require gluing from the page of a magazine to a leaflet or an insert. Since the end of 2013, Cosm in, the flat jar designed by Aptar, has been available for production on the key cosmetics markets. After France and China, this packaging is now being produced in the United States, with Brazil set to follow suit. This mini-packaging, with its easy to open and re-seal closure, is an ideal travel format. Thanks to its shape, it is suitable for non-traditional networks: e-commerce, automatic dispensers, etc. In its smallest version, it can also be used for advertising inserts. Dolce & Gabbana opted for Aptar s sample Imagin which gives consumers a chance to spray on the actual fragrance. The flat sample was sent out as part of an e-sampling campaign, or distributed in stores and travel retail outlets. Slipped into a black envelope accompanying the press visual ((?)), it also supported the advertising campaign run in numerous magazines. LCE s 3D sachet with cap can be opened and reclosed any time, and easily dispense the product to the last drop. Katrin Hoffmann, Public Relations, Primera Technology Europe sees a certain trend in sample packaging. As a special print and labelling systems we 3D sachet with cap photo: LCE see quite clearly that high quality is also called for in sample packaging. Rather than choosing cheap label material with hazy printing producers are realising that samples too have to look high quality. We are also seeing requests for individually designed sample labels that appeal directly and personally, such as in the form of a direct mailing. Classical and at times boring shapes such as rectangles, ovals or circles are no longer called for. Instead manufacturers want striking label shapes. Our Vintage Papier Material that has the feel and look of very old labels is popular with manufacturers of natural cosmetics. The FX400e foil printer prints gold, silver and coloured highlights on already- printed labels. Particularly during the Christmas period it is possible to give these samples a yule tide look. According to Queens Packaging sample packaging should be particularly dazzling and characterised by striking shapes. Customers like to keep 32 COSSMA 1-2I2014

33 THE LEADING GLOBAL BUSINESS PLATFORM FOR PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS Hamburg 1-3 April 2014 Source new ingredients and technologies from 600+ exhibitors from 40+ countries Update your scientific, regulatory and market knowledge with 100+ hours of free presentations and exclusive Workshops Visit the growing Fragrance in Cosmetics and Testing & Regulation Zones Discover the best of Brazilian cosmetics at the Brazil Country Focus DOWNLOAD THE FREE EVENT APP Register for free, fast-track entry at

34 PRODUCTION PACKAGING A new multi-layer single-dose container photo: Lameplast mini tubes for lipstick and a fruit doll tin for lipgloss in their handbag. By studying the purchasing psychology of women, and considering the product functionality and practicality, competitive sample packaging can be developed. Future sample packaging should be fashionable and each brand should have its own exclusive sample packaging. Jessica Cahalen, Marketing Manager at Fusion Packaging is convinced: With the increased popularity in beauty sample subscription services like Birchbox, Glossybox, and TestTube by NewBeauty, the sample category as a whole has grown tremendously. With brands requesting samples that closely mimic their full-sized finished product counterparts they are willing to invest in developing custom moulds and high-end decoration processes to produce these samples. We have seen a shift from cost-conscious sampling to more luxurious, highly decorated, branded sample packages. We are also seeing a strong shift toward airless samples. In addition, we are also anticipating new dispensing options for mini packages. Brands are developing sample packages in tandem with the full-size products, rather than ordering samples only around the holidays as we have seen in the past. For Meaningful Beauty, Fusion Packaging created 8 ml airless bottles for the Glowing Serum and Eye Enhancing Serum using their Fresh collection, as well as 7 ml and 15 ml jars from their Ice collection for the Wrinkle Smoothing Capsules and Anti-Aging Night Crème, respectively. Gleitsmann has specialised in sample packaging with two benefits and offers pouches for cosmetic samples. Transparent pouches are particularly photo: Bioplan popular for product presentations during seasonal promotions, new product launches, gift sets samples and free hand-outs. Fashionable materials such as artificial leather, nylon, microfibres, canvas, netting, felt etc. are used for high quality cosmetics pouches. Such pouches, which can also be tailormade, are very suitable for free handouts, embossed logos or labels. AM Our website guide The sachet discretely placed on the page is an integral part of the design KLAR PARTNER AG High Quality Oils, Fats, Raw Materials and Extracts in Organic Quality DIE REZEPTUR AG Apricotkernel Oil, organic Pomegranatekernel Oil, organic Oat Oil, organic Rosehip Oil, organic Jojoba Oil, organic Almond Oil, organic Evening Primrose Oil, organic Mango butter, organic Passionfruit oil, organic... and much more! +49 (0) info@aot.de www. aot. de DE-ÖKO-005 Visit us at Hall 9, Stand 308

35 Trends Statements E-paper Innovation Order today your Cossma E-paper version! Super gift for new subscribers: Samsonite Laptop Case For 99, EUR per year you get the COSSMA PDF version English and German issue incl. full access to the online archive of the German, French, Spanish, Russian and English pdf-versions (Special PDF editions in French, Spanish, Russian are published for special occassions) Order today, at or via the hotline: +49 (0) Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Karl-Friedrich-Str Karlsruhe Deutschland Tel: +49 (0) Fax: +49 (0)

36 PRODUCTION PACKAGING NEWS NEWS Packaging Exhibition double for packaging and aerosols photo: MWV ADF and PCD I The 8 th edition of the Aerosol & Dispensing Forum (ADF) and the 10 th edition of the Packaging of Perfume, Cosmetics & Design (PCD) will be held simultaneously on Wednesday 5 th and Thursday 6 th of February 2014, at the Espace Champerret in Paris. On this occasion 3,400 brand experts and packaging professionals from some 60 countries are expected to meet 200 exhibitors. The event comprises two days of conferences with 10 sessions and 83 international speakers. Seram will present their new collection of perfumed products and fragrance stripes. MeadWestvaco (MWV) will showcase its recently launched Emotions of Spray Collection. The line of luxury fragrance pumps includes the original Melodie pump and the Melodie Agile and Melodie Forever Spray Collection as well as three new additions: Melodie Pure, Melodie Delicate and Maestro Extravagant, which promise to enable customers to tailor each spray to the positioning and personality of the fragrance Perfect match between the fragrance and the sprayer with its distinctive spray characteristics Perfumed products photo: Seram New brush range photo: Da Vinci Anti-allergenic plastic fibre composition for an optimum make-up result Da Vinci I The Synique range from Da Vinci are cosmetics brushes with bristle made from a specially developed plastic fibre composition that have a softness and make-up application performance said to be like natural hairs. In addition to the ability to retain their shape, the robust, soft and long-lasting brushes, which do not shed any hairs, have a light grey lacquered, elegant wooden handle. They are also suitable for use by people with allergies. Brand relaunch for Dresdner Essenz Kakoii I In collaboration with Dresdner Essenz Kakoii have developed and implemented a new design language for the brand. In several brand workshops all sectors were put under one overall brand, the packaging design was reworked and adopted by the whole range. photo: Kakoii New design language to boost sales figures Integrated airless tube + pump solution Albéa I For their Latin American partner Yanbal Albéa has created a high-protection, cost-efficient, integrated airless tube + pump solution for the direct seller s new Sentiva BB Cream. For this purpose the company paired its neutral, industry reference Nea dispenser with a premium co-extruded tube, completely assembled and shipped to the customer for high-speed filling on traditional lines. The special dose size of 150 μl Nea delivers 360 degree application, precise, consistent dosage and complete evacuation. photo: Albéa The pump provides 360 degree application and complete evacuation Applicator for eye products Cosmogen I Talika chose Cosmogen to develop the applicator pack for the new Eye Detox Care&Color with blue micro - spheres for a strengthened action and white microspheres with beige pigments for a concealer make-up effect. The applicator allows the consumer to apply the formulation exactly on the dark circles or around the outline of the eye. Combined action between the formulation and the applicator photo: Cosmogen 36 COSSMA 1-2I2014

37 PACKAGING NEWS PRODUCTION WorldStar award STI Group I An appealing cosmetics package with a special feature has ben developed by STI for Dr. Kitzinger. The package will be honoured in May 2014 during the Interpack in Düsseldorf with the WorldStar Award by the World Packaging Organisation, beating 249 entries from 35 countries. A double chamber carton was designed for the lower part that presents the ampoules in an upright position, making them easy to pick out. Pre-glued edges on the lower part carry the lid and so avoid any damage to the ampoules when stacking. The overlapping edge of the package also means that it is easy to open. The board s high degree of whiteness, silver foil stamping, relief embossing and extensive quality printing on the back of the pack reinforce the high quality of the packaging. Tablet computer-inspired travel palette Topline I Topline Products has created the packaging for L Oréal s Em Life Palette and Travel Palette compacts. The packaging s shape and size are inspired by tablet computers, and are available in six different palettes that represent the many facets of the end-user s busy life, i.e. career, night, party, love, day and beach. Every palette contains four different looks in one convenient kit. In addition, there is a customizable travel-size palette for the woman-on-the-go. The magnetic pans can be removed from the large palette and cleverly inserted into the smaller travel sized palette. photo: STI Group Unpacking made easy photo: Topline The removable magnetic pans can be inserted into the smaller travel-size palette DIE VIOLA PUMPE KURZE LIEFERZEITEN INDIVIDUELLE GESTALTUNG ÜBER FARBE UND DEKORATION NEUESTE PUMPENTECHNOLOGIE AUCH ALS AIRLESS-PUMPE ERHÄLTLICH ECOCERT-ZERTIFIZIERT Erhältlich in: Gewinde sim 22/410, Dosiervolumen 0,5 cc Gewinde sim 24/410, Dosiervolumen 0,35 cc Gewinde sim 20/410, Dosiervolumen 0,2 cc Gewinde sim 20/400, Dosiervolumen 0,2 cc

38 SERVICES INGREDIENTS Essential oils: Current import prices in /kg January/February 2014 Amyris, Sandalwood, West Indies unchanged, somewhat easier Anethol from star anis oil somewhat easier Bergamot Reggio steady Buchu leaf Betulina / very little movement Cananga almost unchanged Caraway, Balkan/Holland steady Cassia, China 36.00/48.00 weak, big variations in quality (new/trad) Cedarwood, China firm Cedarwood, Florida/Virginia firm Cedarwood, Texas firm Celery seed, India unchanged Citronella, China, 85/35% stabilised Citronella, Java, 85/35% continuing steady Clove leaf, Madagascar 19.50/22.00 steady Coriander 75.00/85.00 firmer, tending to continue firm Dill, Balkan 35.50/42.00 almost no change Eucalyptol, min. 99% (1.8 cineol) somewhat firmer Eucalyptus citriodora, Brazil, min. 75% Eucalyptus citriodora, China, min. 75% no clear direction no clear direction Eucalyptus, China, 80/85% somewhat firmer Eucalyptus staigeriana unchanged Fennel, seed 33.50/62.00 steady Geranium, Egypt easier Geranium, China somewhat easier Ginger, India/Cochin stable at a high level Grapefruit, white 25.50/44.00 now stabilised at a high level Guaiacwood, Paraguay unchanged Howood, min. 85% 28.00/38.00 unchanged, good quality is very scarce Juniper berry / now stabilised Lavandin abrialis firm Lavandin grosso firm Lavender, Bulgaria 65.00/85.00 big variations in quality Lavender, France, 40/42% nom prices at last year s level Lemon, Messina, winter harvest firm Lemon grass, Cochin, min. 75% steady Limette, distilled, Mexico/West Indies clearly firmer, scarce Litsea cubeba, China, min. 75% unchanged Menthol, China, BP/DAB prices on day to day basis Menthol, India, known brands prices on day to day basis Mint (Pepp. arv.), China volatile, prices on day to day basis Mint (Pepp. arv.), India volatile, prices on day to day basis Prices ar ex-works Germany, customs cleared in the EU Note: The /$ exchange rate has an impact on several prices and at times has a greater impact than percentage price changes at source. Nutmeg, Indonesia 82.00/ prices volatile, but tending to be firm Nutmeg, Sri Lanka 83.00/98.00 currently still steady Orange, bitter, Brazil still firm and scarce Orange, Brazil 4.50/5.00 stable, tending to be firm Orange, Florida/Valencia, CP 4.65/5.15 unchanged, scarce and firm Palmarosa, East Indies unchanged, still no clear direction Palmarosa, South America unchanged, still no clear direction Parsley seed steady Patchouli, Sumatra extra with firm undertone Pepper, India / stabilised Peppermint, American 65.00/78.00 firm Peppermint, Indian steady Petitgrain, Paraguay stabilised at a weak level Rosemary, North Africa, 29.00/28.00 scarce, prices very firm Morocco/Tunisia Rosewood, Brazil nom in principal not available (CITES) Sage, Dalmatian, offic., 30% scarce but steady Sandalwood, India nom. 2, very firm, legally sold oil almost unavailable Spearmint, Am. Native/Scotch 49.00/51.00 steady with firm undertone Spearmint, China, 60/80% 32.00/45.00 firm, good quality scarce Spruce needle, Siberia unchanged Star anis, China somewhat easier Vetiver, Haiti in principal no change Vetiver, Java steady 38 COSSMA 1-2I2014

39 FORMULATIONS SERVICES For face + colour The 40 or so formulations covering facial care and colour cosmetics, that we present here are aimed at making your face your best visiting card. On our web site at you can download them all free of charge. In our March issue we will be focussing on formulations for skin cleansing products. In April masks, treatments and exfoliants will be on the agenda. All of the information published here has been carefully assembled; however neither the publishers nor the developers of these formulations can accept responsibility for their safety or accuracy Whilst a lot of ingredients suppliers offer basic formulations as a service to their customers it is also a great pleasure to collect new product ideas straight from the suppliers at the same time. The following formulations on the subject of facial care, for example, sound rather exciting: the Youthful Radiance Enhancer from BASF, the Jelly Facial Gel Mask from CLR, the Anti-Age Flash Serum from Impag and the Facial Hydrating Mist from Inolex. With regard to colour cosmetics the Black Widow Mascara from Biesterfeld sounds great from a technical point of Downloads All formulations can be found at or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for February: User name: cossma2 Password: sun view, with its changeable consistence, as does the Cream to Powder Foundation from Lucas Meyer, and for something more natural the Volumizing Mascara with Non-Nano Carbon Black Composite from Kobo and the Waterbased Nail Polish Pretty Red from Worlée both sound very interesting. * The access codes to download the formulations can be found in the Internet panel on this page Facial Care Healthy Skin Serum Gel Akzo Nobel Youthful Radiance Enhancer BASF Oat & Vitamin E Face Cream Brenntag Moisturizing Anti Ageing Cream Gel Clariant Jelly Facial Gel Mask CLR Naturally Soothing Aftershave Balm Croda Facial Cream for Women 50+ Evonik Day and Night Cream GfN Selco Cream Cleanser Global Seven Day Care for Sensitive Skin with Quick Break Effect Greentech Anti-Age Flash Serum Impag Facial Hydrating Mist Inolex Facial Moisturizer Jungbunzlauer Facial Cleanser Kao Chemicals First Line of Defense Face Serum Lubrizol Quillaja Biopflege für reinen Teint Pera Ingredients Cucumber Facial Scrub Protameen Chemicals Beauty-Care-Mask Rousselot Argan Skin Enhancing Cream Seatons QD Whitening Revolution Seppic Daily Face Protection Zschimmer & Schwarz Colour Cosmetics, incl. BB & CC Creams Moulin Rouge A. Brasca BB Cream SPF 30 Bayer Material Science Black Widow Mascara Biesterfeld Lipstick with Sunflower Seed Wax DeWolf Chemicals CCg Cream DKSH Sublime Resist Emulsifier Free Foundation Dow Lip Gloss Glittering Red Estenity Color Concealer CC Cream Honeywell Volumizing Mascara with Non-Nano Carbon Black Composite Kobo Ultrashine Caramel Lip Gloss Lipo Chemicals BB Cream Lonza Cream to Powder Foundation Lucas Meyer 5 in 1 Tinted Day Cream Nordmann Rassmann NRC Sublime Lip Gloss Sederma Anti-aging and Regenerating BB Cream Soliance Mascara Symrise Natural Lipstick TC USA Be my BB O/W Cream Univar Water-based Nail Polish Pretty Red Worlée SEPPIC GmbH gehört zur Airliquide Grup - pe. Unsere innovativen Marketing konzepte im Hilfs- und Wirkstoffbereich sind in der gesamten kosmetischen Indu strie bekannt Für den Bereich Kosmetik suchen wir für unseren Standort Köln einen erfahrenen Technischen Kundenbetreuer (w/m) Der ideale Kandidat hat eine naturwissenschaftliche Aus - bildung (Dipl.-Ing,Chemiker, Biologe) und ist kommunikativ und teamfähig. Sie sollten eine 3-5jährige Berufserfahrung haben, damit Sie unsere erklärungsbedürftigen Produkte erfolgreich und souverän unseren Kunden präsentieren können. Eine hohe Reise - bereitschaft wird für diese Tätigkeit vorausgesetzt. Ihre Aufgaben bestehen in der Kundenbetreuung und der Ausweitung des bestehenden Kundenstammes in Deutschland und Österreich. Sie planen und gestalten eigenverantwortlich Ihre Budgetziele und sind das Bindeglied zwischen unseren Kunden, dem Innendienst und unserem Mutterhaus in Paris. Sehr gute Englischkenntnisse sind für diese Tätigkeit notwendig. Französischkenntnisse wären von Vorteil. Wir bieten Ihnen eine Position mit hoher Eigenverantwortung in einem dynamischen internationalen Team, ein leistungsorientiertes Gehalt und einen Firmenwagen. Wenn Ihr Interesse geweckt wurde und Sie in einem hochmotivierten Team mitarbeiten möchten, so senden Sie bitte Ihre Bewerbungsunterlagen an: SEPPIC GmbH; z.h. Iris Gärtner; von der Wettern Str. 27, D Köln; Tel ; iris.gaertner@airliquide.com, COSSMA 1-2I

40 EVENTS ADVERTISEMENT / ANZEIGE Ample opportunities to network with industry professionals in-cosmetics, Hamburg Messe Germany, 1 3 April 2014 in-cosmetics 2014 set to unite the personal care industry in Hamburg The global personal care industry is thriving, valued at $300 billion and expected to grow 4.5 per cent annually according to Kline & Company. Trends such as organic and natural formulation, male grooming and advanced antiageing remain key drivers in the sector, as consumers continue to invest in beauty products despite decreased disposable incomes. It is against this backdrop that after five years in-cosmetics returns to Germany, a powerhouse for scientific and technical excellence and Europe s premier market valued at 12,851 billion*. The show, which takes place in Hamburg for the first time on 1 3 April 2014, is set to be another action packed edition which will unite personal care professionals from across the globe as they discuss and debate industry hot topics and discover the latest product launches. More than 600 exhibitors are making preparations for in-cosmetics 2014 where they will be showcasing new product launches and technologies, as well as sharing their latest research, with upwards of 8,000 visitors. Personal care ingredient giants such as BASF, Croda, Lubrizol and Merck return to the show once again and over 50 firsttime exhibitors from countries as diverse as China, Czech Republic, Japan and Norway are already confirmed, offering visitors the opportunity to meet with the widest range of suppliers in the industry, all under one roof. New Brazil Country Focus In celebration of the year of collaboration between Germany and Brazil, a new Country Focus feature has been introduced to shine a light on Brazil s vibrant personal care market the third biggest in the world according to Euromonitor International. Supported by ABIHPEC (Brazilian Association of the Cosmetics, Toiletry and Fragrance Industry), it will offer a dedicated programme of events. A Brazil Product Trail will direct visitors to exhibitor stands where new products or creative formulations that use ingredients sourced from Brazil or draw inspiration from the region are displayed. Visitors can also target Brazilian suppliers in the Brazil exhibitor pavilion where many first-time exhibitors will be housed, while a Networking Zone with Brazilian Bar offers unrivalled opportunities to discuss business partnerships. The Educational Programme will also put Brazil into focus. Marketing Trends presentations will investigate which sectors offer the most interesting opportunities for manufacturers, while a three-hour Workshop will offer tips and advice on breaking into the Brazilian market included information on regulations, taxation, customs and the export/import market. Innovative skincare, haircare and colour cosmetics products from Brazil will also be on display during demonstrations by Mintel on the Innovation Zone. Exclusive insights and tips 2014 s extensive Educational Programme has been designed to ensure marketers, formulators, cosmetic scientists, brand owners and R&D professionals stay ahead of the competition. 40 COSSMA 1-2I2014

41 ADVERTISEMENT / ANZEIGE EVENTS The Innovation Zone: Visitors can discover new ingredient launches from all corners of the globe More than 20 Marketing Trends sessions will investigate hot topics such as haircare, dermatology and professional skincare. Presentations will also explore opportunities in markets outside of Europe including the Brazilian market, tying in with the show s Brazil Country Focus, as well as Japan and Korea. Highlights include Fragrance & Personal Care Analyst, Emmanuelle Moeglin from Mintel, who takes a look at global scent trends to unearth regional preferences for personal care products; a presentation by Organic Monitor unravelling the rise in demand for naturals; and a session by Imogen Matthews on what the beauty industry can learn from the last decade. A special keynote presentation on Open Innovation will also be delivered by professor Dr. Klaus Peter Wittern, VP, Head of Research and Development at Beiersdorf. The 2014 event has more Workshops than ever before with nine sessions offering practical scientific and marketing advice so attendees can improve their skills and knowledge base. CONUSBAT will run a two-part Workshop on The Animal Testing Ban exploring alternative testing methods and the impact the ban is having on companies around the world. Professor Karl Lintner is also holding two sessions the first investigating the sensory aspects and hedonistic experiences that involve interaction between brain and skin in his Rethinking Antiageing The Skin, The Brain and Our Senses Workshop, and the second probing EU regulation around sustainable claim substantiation. Julie Beerling at Organic Monitor will lead a session on Developing Paraben-free Preservative Systems to help professionals stay up to date with the latest alternatives, while experts from companies including BASF, Bioalternatives and L Oréal will uncover technical advances in hair care, from hair physiology to in vitro to in vivo tests. Attendees also have the chance to learn about moving into new markets with Workshops on breaking into Brazil and China, arguably two of the most potentially lucrative cosmetics and personal care markets in the world. Innovation will be top of the agenda with the addition of a third Innovation Seminar, enabling visitors to access even more exhibitor-led presentations from companies including Clariant, DSM and Lipotec. Celebrating innovation The Innovation Zone will also return to Hamburg in 2014, where visitors can discover new ingredient launches from all corners of the globe. Visitors will be able to touch, test and understand how the new ingredients on display can be developed into a formulation. Interactive demonstrations have been expanded allowing visitors to find out more about innovative technologies and application techniques. On the second night of the show, visitors and exhibitors are invited to the free-of-charge awards ceremony, where the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards will be presented to honour three companies that demonstrate innovation in the development of functional or active ingredients. Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine will also present the Best New Ingredient Award. Following the successful launch of the Fragrance in Cosmetics and Testing and Regulation Zones in 2013, both will return even bigger and better for The Fragrance in Cosmetics Zone is twice as large and the Testing and Regulation Zone is five times larger than in 2013, demonstrating the increasing importance these areas have in modern cosmetic formulation. Cathy Laporte, Exhibition Manager for in-cosmetics, commented: in-cosmetics has a reputation for providing the global personal care industry with a platform to do business, network and Discover new opportunities on the show floor improve knowledge and skills. For 2014, we have added a new Country Focus and an extended Educational Programme to ensure we stay at the forefront of the industry. We are looking forward to our return to Germany with another dynamic event. This is all just a taster of what s happening at in-cosmetics To find out more on exhibitors and features at the show, you can visit the website on or download the App *Retail sales price COSSMA 1-2I

42 SERVICES EVENTS Fairs, conferences and seminars When? What? Where? Who? Packaging of Perfume Paris Oriex Cosmetics & Design PCD France Seminar: Werbeaussagen für Cologne Akademie Fresenius kosmetische Produkte Germany Seminar: Leipzig Deutsches Verpackungsinstitut Basiswissen-Verpackung Germany Seminar: Frankfurt a.m. Forum Institut für Management EU-Kosmetikverordnung Germany Biofach + Vivaness Nuremberg NürnbergMesse Germany Seminar: Verpackungs- Stuttgart Deutsches Verpackungsinstitut druck und -veredelung Germany PCHi Shanghai Reed Sinupharm China Personal Care Products Palm Beach The Personal Care Products Council Council Annual Meeting USA Seminar: Verpackungskosten Berlin Deutsches Verpackungsinstitut Germany Packaging Innovations Birmingham easyfairs Great Britain PLMA-Konferenz London PLMA International Council am Runden Tisch Great Britain conferences@plma.nl, BEAUTY FORUM SPAIN Valencia Health and Beauty Marketing Spain SLU Spain BEAUTY FORUM SWISS Zurich Health and Beauty Marketing Swiss GmbH Switzerland info@health-and-beauty.ch ChinaConnect Paris R & C Media France BEAUTY FORUM POLAND Warsaw Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.z.o. Poland targi@health-and-beauty.com.pl Seminar: Principles and Practice Bournemouth SCS of Cosmetic Science Great Britain H3i Birmingham Step Exhibitions Great Britain Hochschulkurs Karlsruhe KIT Emulgiertechnik Germany MakeUp in Seoul Seoul Beauteam SAS South Korea Mondial Spa Paris Mondial Spa et Beauté et Beauté France Parfümerietagung Düsseldorf Bundesverband Parfümerien Germany NutraFormulate Birmingham Step Exhibitions Great Britain BEAUTY FORUM SLOVAKIA Trencin Expo Center Slovakia dobias@expocenter.sk Beauty Boutique Düsseldorf Messe Düsseldorf Germany Beauty Düsseldorf Düsseldorf Messe Düsseldorf GmbH Germany info@messe-duesseldorf.de, Shea 2014 Abidjan Global Shea Alliance Ivory Coast Making Cosmetics Coventry Step Exhibitions Great Britain DGK-Fortbildungskurs Lemgo DGK e.v. Mikrobiologie der Kosmetika Germany info@dgk-ev.de In-Cosmetics Hamburg Reed Exhibitons Germany Cosmopack Bologna SoGeCos Italy sogecos@cosmoprof.it, 42 COSSMA 1-2I2014

43 Go to INTERNATIONAL B2BEXCHANGE SERVICES b2bexchange for more information about suppliers and their products B2B Exchange: Find your business partners of tomorrow today! COSSMA and BEAUTY FORUM will help you to build new business contacts. All our business partners can use this "International B2B Exchange". Have a look at the entries below now and find your business partner of tomorrow today! Further information: see (a=new!) Wish to export their products abalico D Weinheim, Germany Contact: Mr. Rüdiger Vogel info@abalico.de; Products: Cosmetic products for hand and nail wish to export to: A, CH, F, E, GB Akzent direct GmbH D Gelnhausen, Germany Contact: Mr. Reiner Schmidt info@akzent-direct.com; Products: Nail Design, Permanent Make-Up wish to export to: Asia, AUS, Africa, Near East, P, E, I Beauty Line Consulting D Ubstadt-Weiher, Germany Contact: Janos Stegena info@belico.de Products: skin and body Care products, private label, bulk wish to export to: worldwide beauty lumis GmbH D München, Germany Contact: Angela Frommer a.frommer@beautylumis.com Products: 2-Frequenz-Simultan- Meso-Laser-and cosmetic products wish to export to: worldwide DR. BELTER COSMETIC GMBH D Braunschweig, Germany Contact: Mira Fischbach COSMETIC@BELTER.de Products: skin and body care cosmetics wish to export to: worldwide Dr. GRANDEL GmbH PHYRIS Premium Spa Cosmetic D Augsburg, Germany Contact: Mr. Jürgen Geisler juergen.geisler@grandel.de Products: Skin care products, wish to export to: GB, GUS, TR, TW, S. America GERTRAUD GRUBER KOSMETIK GmbH & Co. D Rottach-Egern/Tegernsee, Germany Contact: Roland Schäfer rschaefer@gruber-kosmetik.de Products: Wirkstoffaktives holistisches Produktund Anwendungskonzept auf Natur basis der 1. Beautyfarm Europas. wish to export to: worldwide Guderma GmbH D Bergkamen, Germany Contact: Mr. Manfred Wolf guderma@web.de Products: Skin Care Products for dry und very dry skin wish to export to: worldwide Heitland & Petre International GmbH (ROSA GRAF) D Celle, Germany Contact: Saskia Schneider saskia.schneider@heitland.com Products: skin care products, wellness & spa treatments wish to export to: worldwide House of Melchiorsen DK-4700 Naestved, Denmark Contact: Annelise Langhorn langhorn@houseofmelchiorsen.com Products: Natural Skin Care products and herbal teas made of biodynamic herbs from own d herbs-garden. Wish to export to: Worldwide Ingeburg Praxis-Cosmetic GmbH D Karlsruhe, Germany Contact: Ms. Renate Karner r.karner@praxis-cosmetic.de Products: Skin and Body Care Cosmetics, Ampoules, Decorative cosmetics wish to export to: EU + worldwide IONTO-COMED GmbH D Karlsruhe, Germany Contact: Export export@ionto.de Products: cosmetic and footcare technology wish to export to: worldwide Klapp Cosmetics GmbH D Hessisch Lichtenau, Germany Contact: Fernando Duarte f.duarte@klapp-cosmetics.com Products: Cosmetic products, SPA collection series wish to export to: EU, S. America, Asia NEOVITA COSMETICS D Mauer, Germany Contact: Karina Grimm IS@neovita.de Products: Premium Skin Care products for professionals wish to export to: worldwide Dr. med Christine Schrammek Kosmetik GmbH & Co. KG D Essen, Germany Contact: Birgit Schmitz b.schmitz@schrammek.de Products: Hautpflegeprodukte, Peelings wish to export to: I, MAL, RA, UA, ZA TANA Cosmetics D Bielefeld, Germany Contact: Egypt-Wonder GmbH+Co.KG Mr. Ronald Fortmann info@tana-cosmetics.com Products: Colour cosmetics, Cosmetic products for self tanning wish to export to: E, F, DK, S COSSMA 1-2I

44 SERVICES SUPPLIERS GUIDE Suppliers Guide Alphabetical Listing On the following pages you will find a selection of suppliers to the cosmetics industry. The listing is in alphabetical order based on the English section headings. To make it easier for you to find what you are looking for we have listed the German section headings below, with their English equivalents. A detailed supplier listing can be found starting on page 43ff. You can also find a full overview, with a search function, at Should your company be listed here? Send an to dorothea.michaelis@health-and-beauty.com We will be glad to send you details of terms and prices German Heading Abfüll- und Verschließmaschinen Adeps Lanae Ätherische Öle Airless Systeme Aloe Vera Alu-Siegel-Verschlüsse Ampullenabfüllung Avocadobutter Avocadoöl Boragesamenöl Chitosan Dermatologische + klinische Tests Dichtemessung von Cremes, Flüssigkeiten und Aerosolen Etiketten Etuis für die dekorative Kosmetik Fettsäure-Ester Flüssigkeitszerstäuber und Sprühpistolen Formen und Kunststoffteile Glittereffekte see Filling and Crimping Machines Adeps Lanae Essential Oils Airless Systems Aloe Vera Aluminium Seal Closures Ampul Filling Avocadobutter Avocado Oil Borage Seed Oil Chitosan Dermataogical + Clinical Tests Density Measurement of Creams, Liquids and Aerosols Labels Pouches a. Cases f. Colour Cosmetics Fatty Acid Esters Dispensers and Trigger Pumps Molds and Plastic Parts Glitter Effects Start winning tomorrow s customer today with your entry in the suppliers guide width of column: 43 mm price per mm height: 3,10 for a period of: 1 year advertising deadline: 10th day of each month before publication Hagebuttenkernöl Hyaluronsäure Natrium Johanniskrautöl Hacoba Jojobaperlen Jojobaöl Karmin Kosmetik-Farbstoffe Kosmetik-Rohstoffe Lanolin (Adeps Lanae), Wollwachs, -alkohole pestizidarm Lohnabfüllung Lohnherstellung Arzneimittel und Kosmetika Lohnherstellung und Verpackung Makadamianussöl Mandelöl Mischkugeln für Aerosole Molch-Reinigungssysteme Nachtkerzenöl Oleochemicals Olivenbutter Olivenöl Parfümöl Pflanzenöle Pumpen für die Produktion Rizinusöl Sesamöl Software Sheabutter Spraysysteme Sterilisation Verpackungen Weizenkeimöl Wirkstoffe für Kosmetika Wollwachs ADVERTISING FAX-SERVICE: Fax +49 (0) Rose Hip Oil Hyaluronic Acid Sodium St. John s Wort Oil /Hypericum Oil Jojobabeads/Grains/Pearls Jojoba Oil Carmine Cosmetics Colorants Cosmetics Raw Materials Lanolin (Adeps Lanae), Low Pesticide Wool Wax, Wool Alcohols Contract Filling Contract Manufacturing Pharmaceuticals and Cosmetics Manufacturing + Packaging Macadamia Nut Oil Almond Oil Aerosol Mixing Balls Pig Clearing Systems Evening Primrose Oil Oleochemicals Olivebutter Olive Oil Perfume Oil vegetable oils Pumps for the production process Castor Oil Sesame Oil Software Shea Butter Spray Systems Sterilization Packaging Wheat Germ Oil Actives for Cosmetics Wool Wax Please send me an order confirmation for the following ad: Category/ies: Yes, I wish to place a firm order for an entry in the suppliers guide at a price of 3,10 per column mm for each entry. You will receive the text for my ad with separate fax. Company: contact: Street, P.O. Box: Post Code, City: Country: phone: fax: Height i. mm: mm 4 colour (Euro scale) black and white To be first published in issue: 03/ / / /2014 For a period of: 1 year test: 3 month Yes, I agree that you may keep me advised of industry news by phone (including mobile phone), by , or in writing! date, signature 44 COSSMA 1-2I2014

45 SUPPLIERS GUIDE SERVICES Adeps Lanae Adeps Lanae H. Erhard Wagner GmbH Bremen, Postfach Tel. (0421) , Fax (0421) Aerosol Mixing Balls Mischkugeln für Aerosole SiLiglit SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH Phone (++49) Fax (++49) Aloe Vera Aloe Vera Ampul Filling Ampullenabfüllung Fischer Ampullenabfüllung GbR Abfüllung in 1 ml bis 20 ml-glasampullen Wir bieten auch Konfektionierung an! Rufen Sie uns an: Fischer Ampullenabfüllung GbR Am Sportplatz 5 D Steinmauern Tel.: ++49 (0) / Fax: (0) / info@ampullenabfuellung.de Carmine Karmin Contract Filling Lohnabfüllung Aerosol-Qualitätsabfüllung im Rhein-Main-Gebiet Lohnabfüllung Konfektionierung Verpackung Versand Produktentwicklung Eigene Rezepturen Zink-Spray Alu-Spray Schmierspray Techn. Aerosole W + S Aerosoltechnik GmbH Am Sportplatz Karlstein Tel / Fax / Ein Unternehmen der Firmengruppe Lohnabfüllung Zellaerosol GmbH Wiesenstraße 13 D Zell/Wiesental Telefon / Telefax / info@zellaerosol.de Internet: Wir haben uns spezialisiert auf das Herstellen, Füllen und Verschließen von Standardsachets Zeitschriftensachets Onpacksachets Konturensachets Tüchlein Lohn-Pack K.A.Wolf GmbH & Co. KG Dorfwiesenstraße, Florstadt Tel / , Fax / Mail: kontakt@lohn-pack.com Aluminium Seal Closures Alu-Siegel-Verschlüsse Certification Zertifizierung Contract Manufacturing + Packaging Made in Germany Für Sie... Entwickeln und produzieren wir Cremes, Gele, Liquida u.v.m. Konfektionieren in Ampullen, Tiegel, Flaschen, Tuben GMP-gerecht mit eigenen Kontroll-Laboren (Mibi und Analytik) Please note: 3/2014 Hinter der Mauer 4a D Rudolstadt Fon: Fax: info@artefactum.biz Alu-Siegelverschlüsse Alu-Folien für Glas- u. Kunststoff-Behälter in Kleinst- u. Massenauflage in jeder Größe zu jedem Zweck Qualität seit 1957 DERSCHLAG GmbH & Co. KG Stanzerei und Folienverarbeitung Bad Berleburg Tel.: /20 27, Fax: /20 25 Consulting Beratung We take care of your cosmetics. Your service provider in the healthcare industry: Publishing date: Advertising deadline: Please do not hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions Call: Dorothea Michaelis +49 (0) HIRTLER SEIFEN GmbH Quality bar soap for personal care Seit 125 Jahren entwickeln und stellen wir her Feinseifen (Stückseifen), Syndets und Combars, Seifengranulate und -nudeln, Rohglycerin und exportieren in alle Welt. HIRTLER SEIFEN GmbH Beiersdorfstraße Heitersheim Tel.: / Fax: / COSSMA 1-2I

46 SERVICES SUPPLIERS GUIDE Contract Manufacturing + Packaging Contract Manufacturing Pharmac. + Cosmetics Cosmetic Ingredients Kosmetik-Rohstoffe Dermatological + Clinical Tests GANZ EINFACH: LEISTUNG HERSTELLEN von Salben, Gelen, Cremes, Zahnpasta, Liquida, Pulver; Suppositorien in PVCoder Aluzellen. ABFÜLLEN in Alu-, Kunststoff-, Laminattuben, Tiegel, Flaschen, Beutel, Dosen. KONFEKTIONIEREN von pharmazeutischen, kosmetischen, chemischen Produkten, Nahrungs- und Genußmitteln. DOKUMENTIEREN GMP-gerechte Kontrolle und Dokumentation. Modernes Labor mit Mikrobiologie. innovativ kompetent zuverlässig Entwicklung, Bulkherstellung, Konfektionierung Aerosole, Kosmetik, Pharmazeutik/OTC, Medizin- und Haushaltsprodukte Trichema AG Lättichstrasse 4 Postfach 1063 CH-6341 Baar Tel 0041 (0) Fax 0041 (0) info@trichema.ch Your company could be placed here for only 120,40 per issue. Book your ad today. Call +49 (0) Polyurethanes, film forming polymers and sensory additives for your cosmetic formulations cosmetics@bayermaterialscience.com baycusan Engelstraße 37, Münster Essential Oils Ätherische Öle R F Ätherische Öle Extrakte und Your advertisement could be right Aroma-Chemikalien Rolf Schneider Handelsgesellschaft mbh Louisenstraße 141 D Bad Homburg Telefon: Fax: web: Spenden statt Geschenke! Geburtstag, Hochzeit, Marathon, oder Ihre eigene Idee - starten Sie eine eigene Spendenaktion zugunsten der SOS-Kinderdörfer weltweit und motivieren Sie Ihre Freunde, Sie zu unterstützen! WAGENER & CO GANZ EINFACH: LEISTUNG. Wagener & Co GmbH Postfach Lengerich Telefon / Telefax / kontakt@wagener-co.de Internet: for more information: Advertising Hotline +49 (0) COSSMA 1-2I2014

47 COS1402_45_BQ_GB_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB :51 Seite 47 SUPPLIERS GUIDE Filling Lines Filling Lines Maschinen für Aerosole und Sprühsysteme Glitter Effects Glittereffekte SiLiglit Software Software Verpackung für Kosmetik Selbstabfüller Dosen u. Flaschen in Plastik u. Glas (Sprühköpfe, Dosierspender, Aromaflaschen, Parfümflaschen, Sprühflaschen ohne Treibgas) Füll- und Verschliessmaschinen Prüf- und Sicherheitseinrichtungen Sortier-, Zuführ- und Aufsetzmaschinen Mess- und Testgeräte Auch Kleinstmengen! Kosmetik - Pharmazeutik - Chemie Technik - Nahrungsmittelindustrie Farben/Lacke - Polyurethanschäume Pamasol Willi Mäder AG, CH-8808 Pfäffikon T +41(0) , F +41(0) info@pamasol.com, SERVICES Fordern Sie unsere Unterlagen an R.GERSCHON GMBH SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH Phone (++49) Fax (++49) E - M a i l : s i l s i g m u n d - l i n d n e r. c o m D Königstein im Taunus Tel /7017. Fax 06174/1312 Internet: info@gerschon.de Siebdruck ab 300 Stück Lanolin (Adeps Lanae) Lanolin (Adeps Lanae) Cosmetic packagings big choice on stock in plastic, glass, aluminium caps, pumps, sprayers, pipettes MOQ 100 pc for stock items H. Erhard Wagner GmbH Bremen, Postfach Tel. (04 21) , Fax (04 21) Mixing + Homogenizing Mixing + Homogenizing decoration from pc per ref. Gewerbering 10 D Fahrenzhausen Fon Fax info@pack-it.de Sterilzation Sterilisation steril! Wir machen Ihre Produkte BGS Ihr Spezialist für Strahlensterilisation. WI E H L B R UCHSAL SAAL (DONAU) B GS Beta-Gamma-Service GmbH & Co. KG info@bgs.eu + 49 (0) Vegetable Oils Pflanzenöle A STEP AHEAD symex GmbH & Co. KG Lengstr. 10, Bremerhaven Fon: +49 (0)471/ Fax: +49 (0)471/ privatebrand.ch AOT GmbH Packaging Verpackungen Food Supplements Nahrungsergänzung We deliver high-quality oils, fats, raw materials and extracts in organic quality Rosa Heinz GmbH Verpackungen aus Glas und Kunststoff Straßfeld 6, Fahrenzhausen Tel. +49 (0 ) Fax: +49 (0 ) info@rosa-heinz.de Coloured ads in this section at the same price as black-white! Book now: Call +49 (0) Your company could be placed here for only 139,50 per issue. Book your ad today. Call +49 (0) Wool wax Wollwachs H. Erhard Wagner GmbH Bremen, Postfach Tel. (04 21) , Fax (04 21) COSSMA 1-2 I

48 Advertisers Index Company Index Adinnovate e.k. loose insert Akzo Nobel Surface Chemistry Personal Care p. 5 All Organic Trading GmbH AOT p. 34 Ama Laboratories p. 7 Bayer Material Science AG p. 21 Beauteam - MakeUp in Paris p. 20 Dieter Bakic Enterprises GmbH p. 37 DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd. p. 52 Flavex Naturextrakte GmbH p. 30 INOLEX Inc. p. 2 Klar + Partner AG p. 34 Kosmetik Konzept GmbH p. 29 Mani GmbH p. 29 Messe Düsseldorf GmbH p. 19 neochem GmbH p. 9 RAHN AG p. 31 Reed Exhibition Companies p. 33, 40, 41, loose insert Sabinsa Europe GmbH p. 7 Seppic GmbH p. 39 SystemKosmetik Produktionsges. für kosm. Erzeugnisse GmbH p. 25 ADF p. 36 Adolf Hopf p. 8 Airolux p. 36 AkzoNobel Personal Care p. 29 Alban Muller p. 8 Albéa pp. 8, 36 All Organic Trading p. 18 AMSilk p. 30 Aptar p. 32 Ashland pp. 8, 10, 30 BASF p. 10 BCG Baden-Baden p. 8 Bioplan p. 32 Birchbox p. 32 BurkiNature p. 18 Clariant p. 10 Clinique p. 16 CLR p. 10 CMD Naturkosmetik p. 8 Cosmogen p. 36 Coty p. 8 Croda pp. 10, 21 Crodarom p. 30 Da Vinci p. 36 Datamonitor p. 16 Dresdner Essenz p. 36 Elizabeth Arden p. 36 Empório Body Store p. 13 Estée Lauder p. 16 Floratech p. 30 Fusion Packaging p. 32 Gleitsmann p. 32 Glossybox p. 32 Green People p. 16 Greentech p. 30 Haba p. 13 Hermès p. 8 Hochschule Ostwestfalen-Lippe p. 26 Hochschule Trier p. 22 I.P.S. p. 36 Icada p. 8 IKW pp. 3, 14 Innofact p. 3 IRI pp. 3, 14 Joy p. 13 Just Herbs p. 13 Kaiserqualität p. 18 Kakoii p. 36 Kline & Company p. 16 Krüss p. 26 L Oréal pp. 14, 16, 36 Lameplast p. 32 Lancaster pp. 13, 50 LCE p. 32 Lehmann & Voss p. 10 Leo Luxe p. 36 Macon Meerescosmetic p. 8 Mane p. 8 Maria Galland p. 8 MeadWestvaco p. 36 Merck p. 30 Nateco 2 p. 18 NCD Ingredients p. 8 NewBeauty p. 32 NSC Neubourg p. 8 Ocòo p. 16 P&M Cosmetics p. 8 PCD p. 36 Pera p. 10 Pharmos Natur p. 8 Primera Technology Europe p. 32 Procter & Gamble p. 8 Queens Packaging p. 32 Rahn p. 24 Resilux p. 36 Sabinsa p. 8 SEPAWA p. 8 Seram p. 36 Sita p. 26 STI Group p. 36 Sunology Sunscreen p. 16 Symrise p. 10 Talika p. 36 Tech4beauty p. 8 TestTube p. 32 Topline p. 36 World Packaging Organisation p. 36 Yanbal p. 36 Yonwoo p. 32 Geka p. 8 Mintel p. 13 Zschimmer & Schwarz p COSSMA 1-2I2014

49 Masthead Page Trends Statements Innovation The Team Managing Director Jürgen Volpp Senior Editor Angelika Meiss Advertising Sales Dorothea Michaelis Advertising Support Ruth Reif +49 (0) Volume 15 ISSN Published by Address Editorial Staff Advisory Board Advertising Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Managing Director: Jürgen Volpp Assistant: Phone: Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, COSSMA P.O. Box 1446, Karlsruhe, Germany Phone: , Fax: Legally responsible party and Senior Editor: Angelika Meiss Phone: François Berthoud, Jean-François Billon, Agnès Borel, Peter Finkel, Dr. Ulrike Heinrich, Ulrich Herfurt, Birgit Huber, Dr. Jean-Luc Lévêque, Dr. Daniel Maes, Prof. Dr. Hagen Tronnier, Dr. Klaus-Peter Wittern Advertisement Manager: Dorothea Michaelis Phone: Advertising Services: Ruth Reif Phone: , Fax: The current list of advertising rates is dated 1st of Jan Circulation Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Service Phone: , Fax: Published: 10 issues per year COSSMA: formerly Parfümerie und Kosmetik and Aerosol and Spray Report Subscription Purchase price/annual subscription rates: Rates Germany: 192; outside Germany: 198. Cancellations addressed to the publishing firm by letter will be accepted one month before the end of the subscription year. The subscription fees will be billed in advance once a year. A quarterly debit transfer arrangement via a bank or post office is acceptable. Design/ Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Production Ulrich Hanke Karl-Friedrich-Str , Karlsruhe, Germany Phone: ISDN (Leonardo): Printing Kraft Druck GmbH Industriestr. 5-9, Ettlingen, Germany International Representatives Hungary Health and Beauty Business Media Kft. Anita Zsilak, Naphegy tér 8. III. em. (MTI Székház) 1016 Budapest, Hungary Phone: , Fax: azsilak@health-and-beauty.hu Italy Zero Venti Loris Sparti Via Giuseppew Luigi Passalacqua, Torino, Italy Phone: loris.sparti@zeroventi.com Poland Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.o.o. Malgorzata Szulc, ul. Kubickiego 9/ Warsaw, Poland Phone: , Fax: malgorzata.szulc@health-and-beauty.com.pl USA and Canada D.A. Fox Advertising Sales Inc. Detlef Fox 19th Floor 5 Penn Plaza New York, NY NY 10001, USA Phone: Fax: detleffox@comcast.net newsletter order z Yes, I want to be kept right up to date. I therefore agree that Health and Beauty Germany GmbH may contact me by mobile phone by in writing by telephone/fax with news from the industry and to tell me about interesting offers. If I do not wish to receive further infor - mation, I will communicate this to Health and Beauty. Please fill in completly in capital letters or add your business card: First name, family name Company Street address Postcode, city, country Date and Graphics Ulrich Hanke +49 (0) Copyright Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, Karlsruhe 2014 The publisher has taken all reasonable steps to ensure the accuracy of information in this magazine. Never theless, no responsibility is accepted for any errors which may occur. The magazine, including all articles and illustrations is copyright. Unauthorised use of published material is prohibited and will be the subject of legal action. This applies in particular to photo copying, translations, microfilms and the storage and editing using electronic media. The use of trade names, brand names, product designations etc. in this publication implies no authority for their further use by third parties. Such product names and brands may be the subject of legal protection, even though they may not be identified as such in the magazine. Order today: Fax: +49 (0) Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Karl-Friedrich-Str Karlsruhe Germany leserservice@health-and-beauty.com Tel: +49(0) Fax: +49(0)

50 SERVICES Trend statement Sun care of tomorrow Dr. Olivier Doucet, Vice President and head of R&D, Lancaster The most exciting recent finding in photobiology is linked to the discovery that infrared light may also cause skin and cell damage as there is more and more evidence that they have a clear and cumulative impact, together with UV-A, on the skin s premature ageing. In addition, Lancaster researchers have also demonstrated that the best way to achieve an efficient protection is to offer the most pleasant textures possible, to bring the highest level of compliance to sun protection. Our new generation of sunscreens for men, women and kids, for the broadest sun protection against skin premature ageing, incorporates not only UV-A and UV- B filters but also a new infrared protection. One of the most important challenges at present is to educate consumers about the risk of excessive sun exposure. Since last June, there has been hard evidence that under real outdoor sun exposure conditions, the regular application of even a moderate SPF 15 sunscreen may decrease skin photo-ageing by almost 25 percent. In addition, the impact of sun protection on the development of various types of skin cancers has been well documented. This is why we need to convince consumers that, when they are out in the sun, they need to be photo-protected. To be sure that both adults and children will use appropriate amounts and will enjoy re-applying them, more attractive and higher performance products have to be created. photo: Lancaster Exciting actives in sun protection products are all about new filters, new reflectors, micro-mirrors and new technologies, allowing us to better neutralize and reflect the sun s rays. The role of antioxidants as a second line of defense is also of major importance. Each day we better understand how they help cells to resist the action of free radicals generated by UV and infrared. We also focus on the development of new approaches to protect and repair skin DNA definitively the ultimate approach to preserving a youthful skin. Only pleasant textures will bring the highest level of compliance to sun protection PREVIEW March 2014 Product development Prof. Dr. Karl Lintner, President of Kal idees, talks about future techno - logies for cosmetics Plus: +++ What are the future technologies that will impact on tomorrow s cosmetics? +++ Fragrance trends of tomorrow or yesterday s cold coffee? +++ Caps and closures for perfumes and cosmetics more than just functional +++ COSSMA 3/2014 is published on February 27 th, 2014 New technologies for futuristic cosmetics products Focus: Future technologies photo: Aleksandr Doodko, Shutterstock.com 50 COSSMA 1-2I2014

51 Check the website with detailed online-information for the personal care industry news, product innovations, addresses, events, books and these selected internet sites: Find tomorrow s suppliers today! Hersteller von hochwertigen kosmetischen Verpackungen info@bottlemate.de PUROLAN ENERGIZED BY Your Logo here 60, You can find further information of these suppliers@ as well as on their homepages (see Url below the logos). Your logo can be listed here for just 60, per month for further information, please contact Dorothea Michaelis dorothea.michaelis@health-and-beauty.com phone +49 (0)

52 Revealing the Power of Ultimate UV Protection DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd. P.O. Box 2676, 4002 Basel Switzerland Phone: Fax: At DSM we believe that skin and hair well protected from the damage caused by UV-A and UV-B light is beautiful and remains beautiful lifelong. We use our bright science and unique competences in UV filter technologies and skin care actives as well as our sensory and formulation expertise to craft ingredients and concepts that deliver this ultimate UV protection in people s day care and beach care.