PatternMaker Outerwear Garment Macros

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1 Home page Svensk manual Suomeksi PatternMaker dealers Counter started Site Map December 5th, 2001 PatternMaker Pattern Drafting Sofware for PC Versions & prices Download & buy Demo version Macro collections Services Contact information Learning Center Tutorials Measuring Sewing instructions Sewing projects Pattern drafting PDF-version Get AcrobatReader PatternMaker Outerwear Garment Macros

2 Measurements In the outwear garment macros following unisex measurements can be chosen. You can, of course, also use your personal measurements in the macros, as measurements tables or entering the measurements on top of the default measurements. In the latter case you can choose any default set of measurements as the basis (XS, S, M...). If you are going to sew garments to another person, choose the size according to the subject's chest measurement. It is recommended that you in all cases check, if possible, the length of the sleeve and the trousers legs. They may vary a lot and do not necessary correlate with the chest. Centimeters Measurements XS S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL Chest 84,0 92,0 100,0 108,0 116,0 124,0 132,0 140,0 Hip 86,0 94,0 102,0 110,0 118,0 126,0 134,0 142,0 Waist 67,0 75,0 83,0 91,0 99,0 107,0 115,0 123,0 Waist height (women) 51,0 52,6 54,2 55,8 57, ,6 62,2 Back width 36,0 38,0 40,0 42,0 44,0 46,0 48,0 50,0 Back length 43,2 44,0 44,8 45,6 46,4 47,2 48,0 48,8 Neck 37,0 39,0 41,0 43,0 45,0 47,0 49,0 51,0 Arn length 63,0 64,0 65,0 66,0 67,0 68,0 69,0 70,0 Pants outside length 103,5 106,5 109,5 112,5 115,5 118,5 121,5 124,5 Crotch height 26,5 27,5 28,5 29,5 30,5 31,5 32,5 33,5 Wrist 16,0 16,8 17,6 18,4 19,2 20,0 20,8 21,6

3 Inches Measurements XS S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL Chest 33,1 36,2 39,4 42,5 45,7 48,8 52,0 55,1 Hip 33,9 37,0 40,2 43,3 46,5 49,6 52,8 55,9 Waist 26,4 29,5 32,7 35,8 39,0 42,1 45,3 48,4 Waist height (women) 20,1 20,7 21,3 22,0 22,6 23,2 23,9 24,5 Back width 14,2 15,0 15,7 16,5 17,3 18,1 18,9 19,7 Back length 17,0 17,3 17,6 18,0 18,3 18,6 18,9 19,2 Neck 14,6 15,4 16,1 16,9 17,7 18,5 19,3 20,1 Arn length 24,8 25,2 25,6 26,0 26,4 26,8 27,2 27,6 Pants outside length 30,3 31,1 31,9 32,7 33,5 34,3 35,0 35,8 Crotch height 40,7 41,9 43,1 44,3 45,5 46,7 47,8 49,0 Wrist 6,3 6,6 6,9 7,2 7,6 7,9 8,2 8,5 Sewing instructions

4 Here you get sewing instructions for a padded outwear jacket for women or men. At the end of these instructions there are some pictures of sewing the trousers. For more information, please refer to other sewing instruction pages on this site, general sewing instructions and sewing instructions for ladies' and men's garments. As the coat will be lined, the seams do not need to be overlocked. Back piece Cut the back piece at halfway of the armscye, add seam allowances to both edges. Cut a strip of fabric, 5 cm (2 in) wide and as long as the back piece is wide (+ seam allowances). Fold the strip lengthwise into two wrong side inside and sandwich it as a decoration between the cut edges of the back piece. Topstitch the seam and iron. (Picture 1) Front piece Sew buttonhole pockets to the front pieces according to general sewing instructions (picture 2). Hood and collar Sew the top/back seams of the hood and the hood lining. Clip seam allowances at the curved area. Sew buttonholes at a distance of about 1.5 cm (3/4 in) from the front edges of the hood lining according to the picture (picture 3, arrow). Sew the hood and the lining together right side against right side along the front edges and around the front overlap, stop at the CF mark. Clip the seam allowance at this place. Leave the rest of the hood neck raw and baste or pin.

5 Turn the hood right side out and iron. Edgestitch the front edges and around the front overlap. Sew at the front edge of the hood a 2 cm ( 3/4 in) wide casing for a draw band. Sew two buttonholes to the front edge through all thicknesses, the first one 1 cm ( 2/5 in) down from the buttonhole sewn to the front edge of the lining and another one 4 cm (5/8 in) downwards from this (picture 4, arrows). Shell and sleeves Sew the shoulder seams of the shell. Attach sleeves to armscyes. Sew the sleeve and the side seams continuously. Sew the top piece of the collar to the coat's neck. Sandwich the hood neck between the collar and the coat's neck. Beware of not sewing the front overlaps of the hood to the seam (picture 5, arrows). Cut clips to the curved seam allowances. Zipper Sew the bands of the zipper right sides against right sides to the front edges of the coat and the collar facing away from the front edges. Turn the top ends of the zipper bands downwards (picture 6, arrow). Lining Sew the shoulder seams of the lining. Sew the lining sleeves to the armscyes of the lining. Sew the sleeve and side seams of the lining continuously.

6 Sew the under collar to the neck of the lining. Cut clips at the curved seam allowances. Sew vertical buttonholes to the hem of the lining at a distance of 1.5 cm (3/4 in) from the hem and at a distance of 12 cm (4 3/4in) from the front edges. Joining the shell and the lining Sew the shell and the lining together right side against right side along front edges, collar edge and hem. Sew both sides separately starting from the center of the collar (picture 7). Sew the front edges along the zipper stitch line. Leave an opening at the hem for turning the coat right side out. Clip curved seam allowances. Trim away the front corners of the hem. Sleeve cuffs Fold the ends of the sleeves and the linings of the sleeves in the way they will be in the finished garment. Grab the folded seam allowances from the wrong side of the garment at the sleeve seam through the opening at the hem and draw the wrong sides of the sleeves out. You can then sew the sleeve ends together right side against right side (picture 8). Sew the neck seams of the shell and the lining together at a short distance.

7 Turn the coat right side out and close the opening at the hem. Open seam allowances well and iron. Edgestitch the collar and the front edges at the side of the zipper. Sew to the hem a 2 cm (3/4 in) wide casing for a draw band through all thicknesses. Sew two vertical buttonholes for the draw strings through all thicknesses at a distance of 2 cm (3/4 in) from the front edges and 6 cm (2 3/8in) from each other (picture 9). Zipper cover Make the zipper cover sewing one zipper cover piece cut of the main fabric to another zipper cover piece cut of the padded lining fabric right side against right side. Leave the straight edge raw. Turn the zipper cover right side out and edgestitch. Sew the cover inside up and facing away from the zipper on the plant line marked on the patterns. Trim seam allowance. Turn the cover to its right position and topstitch (picture 10). Draw bands Sew 0.7 cm (1/4 in) wide band from the main fabric for the hood and the hem draw bands (pictures 11, 12 and 13). Replaced most part of the hem draw band with elastic. Feed the draw strings into the casings and through the buttonholes according to the pictures. Put stoppers at the ends of the draw bands and tighten them a bit.

8 Sew velcro pieces at the edges of the hood and the zipper cover. Trousers For sewing instruction please refer to the general sewing instructions and sewing instructions for ladies' and men's garments.

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