Skin Temperature and Predicted Discomfort of Women Wearing Sheer Empire Style Dress

Transcription

1 Fibers and Polymers 2016, Vol.17, No.6, DOI /s ISSN (print version) ISSN (electronic version) Skin Temperature and Predicted Discomfort of Women Wearing Sheer Empire Style Dress Jisu Kim and Youngjoo Na* Department of Clothing & Textiles, Inha University, Incheon 22212, Korea (Received December 8, 2015; Revised May 17, 2016; Accepted May 20, 2016) Abstract: There are various thermal experiments for current clothing by human wear test but it is rare for historic clothing. A sheer dress fashion in winter time was told as one of the reasons which many women and the young died in the western history. Thus we studied the physiological responses to cold and thermal insulation of the empire style sheer dress by performing human wear test with three subjects. Empire style dresses are made of thin wool, sleek silk and transparent cotton and then human wear test begin in a cool climate chamber 18 o C(±1 o C) and 55 %(±5 %). We measured mean skin temperature, metabolic rate, thermal insulation of clothing, subjective thermal sensation and Predicted Mean Vote with the process which subjects sit down (30 min) and then exercise (30 min) and have a recovery (30 min). As the results we found mean skin temperature kept decreasing in rest period, increased in the middle of exercise period, and decreased again in recovery period due to sweating after exercise, thus the numerical values of skin temperature proved that women could not keep body temperature comfortable in winter. Also, PMV of women wearing empire style dress reached -2.0 within 30 min, and even -3.0 for the wetted skin and after chilling, and the predicted discomfort was calculated using the known equation: minimum 48.3 % at early recovery period through maximum 98.3 % at late recovery period, thus we confirmed thermal discomfort of women with both objective and subjective data together. Keywords: Empire style dress, Human wear test, Skin temperature, Subjective sense, PMV Introduction A new trend of fashion swept across Europe during the beginning of the 19th century. The Empire Style Era ( ) as it was called, followed at the end of the French Revolution. During this period, a garment called the empire style dress rapidly gained popularity, which was a highwaist dress made of flowy and thin fabric, resembling the Greek chiton. The dress had short sleeves and a low-cut neckline at the chest that rendered the wearer s shoulders and breasts almost bare. The airy skirt dropped long and created a slim silhouette. The empire dress was made popular by the era s celebrity figure Queen Josephine, the wife of Napoleon, and French ladies were eager to welcome and follow Queen Josephine s favorite style of dresses. The airy and free nature of the dress also fit well with the sentiment of freedom from social oppression that characterized post-revolutionary France [1,2]. Women wore the dress in winter as well as in summer, however, they just wore spencer jacket or shawl over the dress. We suppose women often felt cold during this period, for example, while working indoors with lack of heaters or outside in the fields laboring in winter time. They caught cold and a persistent cough might have had the effect of rendering a weaker image of women to men, thus appearing more in need of care, yet due to wearing this garment for extended periods, women s health deteriorated and worsened, even up to the point of death. Even women preferred a pale white face and banned wearing rouge. With such dangerous *Corresponding author: youngjoo@inha.ac.kr adoption of the empire fashion, the outbreak of influenza in the winter of 1803 was consequently referred to as the muslin disease that destroyed a significant part of the human race, and caused premature death of about one quarter of the inhabitants of Europe; approximately half of the English population had the disease. Moreover, in the United States, the annual tuberculosis mortality rate was 400 per 100,000 population [3,4]. We wear clothes in order to help the body to thermoregulate appropriately according to weather and seasons, and the lower the air temperature is, the more clothes we wear to keep body core temperature at a warm 37 o C. Heat loss from the body occurs through convection, conduction, radiation, and evaporation from skin temperature 33 o C, and body temperature is affected by skin temperature and the amount of wearing clothes [5,6]. When heat loss exceeds body heat generation, the skin temperature decreases first and body feels cold and uncomfortable, and when the body temperature decreases further, hypothermia ensues. Thermal sensation is an important factor in determining one s sense of comfort, especially when it is cold or hot. The thermal response is individual and subjective and varies according to the human body s reaction to the external environment [7]. Moreover, the sensation of comfort is affected by heat and moisture transfer properties of fabric, as well as the energy level of the body [8]. The predicted mean vote (PMV) value indicates the thermal control status of the human body and whether an individual feels heat burden and thermal dissatisfaction or not. Six combinations from four thermal environmental representative variables (air temperature, humidity, air velocity, and glob temperature), the activity 963

2 964 Fibers and Polymers 2016, Vol.17, No.6 Jisu Kim and Youngjoo Na level of body, and thermal insulation of clothing are used to predict the average thermal sensation, PMV value [9]. From this PMV value, we can determine and predict a person s percentage of discomfort (PPD) to the given thermal environment [10]. In winter, women wearing this empire robe might have felt considerable cold and discomfort and also had lower skin temperature if their body was in a low activity level. However, a mere set of numbers is inadequate for determining the degree of pain and coldness women must have felt during this era. In this study, we sought to address this question by directly measuring the drop in skin temperature and collecting subjective data on how uncomfortable these dresses actually were in a simulated cool climate room. Thermal manikins cannot provide such data. Because manikins fail to completely mimic the physiology of the human body, we therefore used human volunteers for comfort-wearing test for this research. By measuring subjective comfort of the empire style dress, this study aimed to assess and model how women must have felt wearing these dresses in early 19th century Europe. Experimental Methods The representative garment was made out of three different fabrics, sheer cotton, smooth silk, and thin wool which was the typical kinds of dress fabrics after various empire-style dresses were analyzed in terms of form and material. During this period, women used sheer cotton muslin as the main material and although over time styles hardly changed, it later became fashionable to add a white slippery silk robe and fine thin wool to keep the body warm. The each weight of robe dress was 257 g, 321 g, and 593 g, fabric thickness was 0.22 mm, 0.25 mm, and 0.34 mm, and air permeability was 124, 71, and 37 cm 2 /cm 3 /s, respectively for each robe. The empire dress was reconstructed based on historical sketches, patterns, and sewing methods. We designed the dress pattern using the most famous style selected from Arnold (1964) and Bradfield (1968), and details regarding construction and sewing techniques have been presented in detail in the previous study [11]. Subjects and Procedures The experiment was performed in winter in order to reduce any unwanted physiological responses due to extreme differences in an artificial climate chamber and the real-world environment (between December 21, 2013 to February 17, 2014). The artificial climate chamber (Tabai Espec, Japan, EBL-5HW2P3A-23) was set to cold weather: 18±1 o C and 55±5 % relative humidity (RH) for health concerns of the subjects even though the outdoor air temperature in winter might be under 10 o C. The volunteer subjects were three female college students in their early 20s. Subjects with a similar physique were selected to participate in the experiment. The mean height was cm (±2.3 cm), mean weight was 63 kg (±4.0 kg), and the mean body surface area was 1.72 m 2 (±0.03 m 2 ). Experiments were performed at the same time of the day in order to eliminate errors resulting from natural changes in the body s physiological rhythm. Subjects were allowed to participate more than two hours after a previous meal, in Table 1. Robe style selected and human wearing test of three empire dress robes Robe design Cotton Silk Wool Pictures & specification Robe size (cm) - Chest 91 - Dress width Dress length 130 Sheer muslin 100 % - Plain structure - Fabric thickness.217 mm - Robe wt g Silk 100 % crepe-back satin - Fabric thickness.247 mm - Robe wt g Thin wool 100 % - Fabric thickness.343 mm - Robe wt g

3 Skin Temperature & Discomfort Wearing Sheer Dress Fibers and Polymers 2016, Vol.17, No order to avoid the effect of heat production due to food intake during the experiment. In addition, the subjects were prohibited from doing intense exercise and were encouraged to maintain a regular sleep pattern. A sensor was attached on the subject s body, and then, the subjects were instructed to put on the dress. Subjects wore a brassiere, briefs, and drawers underneath the empire dress. Subjects rested by sitting in a chair for 30 minutes prior to exercise, exercised on the treadmill for 30 minutes, and the rested again for 30 minutes (Table 1). One set of experiments lasted a total of 90 minutes. During the entire experiment, subjects provided a subjective response every five minutes. The subjective response of thermal sensation was evaluated on a 9-point scale [12]. Skin Temperature Skin temperature is affected by environmental temperature; thus, in the winter, skin temperatures vary widely according to the body parts. This is also influenced by the thermal insulation of clothing and by the activity level of body s metabolism. The mean skin temperature of body in comfort status is about 33 o C [13,14]. Skin temperatures were measured automatically at one-minute intervals using thermistors (Gram Corp, Japan, LT-8A). Sensors were attached to the subject s skin at four different sites (the chest, upper arm, thigh, and calf) and mean skin temperature was calculated by using the Ramanathan 4-point method. Energy Metabolism Energy production is a result of body heat production, including exercise metabolism as well as base metabolism, and not-conforming or uncomfortable clothing results in higher energy metabolism, even with the same activity level of body exercise. Metabolism was measured in order to calculate the PMV using a Metabolic Measuring Instrument (TrueOne2400-TM, USA, PARVO MEDICS). The maximum oxygen intake (VO 2 max) of the subject was measured to set treadmill speed; 60 % of the subject s VO 2 max was found at the speed of 5.0 km/hr which was then used to simulate a middle level of activity or labor. Calculation of Thermal Insulation Thermal insulation of the garment was determined by both the skin temperature and the body s energy metabolism [15, 16]. In addition, the data were converted to the unit of clo. ( R t A T s T a ) = H R t : resistance to heat transfer provided by the fabric and air layer (m 2 oc/w) A: area of body surface (m 2 ) T s : skin temperature ( o C) T a : air temperature ( o C) H: energy metabolism (W) Calculation of Predicted Mean Vote and the Predicted Percentage of Dissatisfied The PMV was calculated from the values of air temperature, relative humidity, air velocity, globe temperature, energy metabolism and thermal insulation of the garment and the predicted percentage of dissatisfied (PPD) was calculated from PMV using the formula [17], we will read the values on this equation relationship using our data to understand the people s thermal comfort. The PMV predicts the mean value of the votes on a 7-point thermal sensation scale of derived from a larger group of people. A PMV of zero is an indication of a thermal neutral state, neither cool nor warm. Usually, -0.5 < PMV < +0.5 is observed in a pleasant environment. Discomfort due to the environment increases as the values drift farther away from the neutral point of PMV = 0. Results and Discussion Change in Skin Temperature Mean Skin Temperature Although the average skin temperature that one finds most comfortable is 33 o C, the wearers of the dress showed skin temperatures decreasing from about 31.5 o C during the resting period, and the skin temperatures constantly declined (Figure 1). It decreased about 1 o C within the 30-minute rest period. During the latter part of the resting period, the skin temperature was about 30.5 o C for the cotton robe, which is considered to be low mean skin temperature. It is assumed that wearing an empire dress is inadequate to maintain normal body temperature in a room with temperature 18 o C. The decreases in the slope of the skin temperature were slightly different; the reduction was gradual in a wool dress, whereas the reduction was sharp in the cotton dress. Towards the end of the resting period, the differences in the resulting skin temperatures for these dresses were about 0.3 o C to 0.5 o C. The skin temperature continued to decline rapidly during the beginning of the exercise period but began increasing after 10 to 15 minutes. This initial decrease in body temperature may be due to movement promoting convection, allowing for more heat loss from the body. In addition, it may be due Figure 1. Mean skin temperature changes upon wearing the different garments according to the experimental conditions.

4 966 Fibers and Polymers 2016, Vol.17, No.6 Jisu Kim and Youngjoo Na to the constriction of peripheral blood vessels at the beginning of an exercise, with blood circulation shifting to blood vessels in muscles. The increase in skin temperatures after additional exercise is assumed to be due to the increase in blood flow and dilation of the blood vessels due to the increase in body activity. The peak skin temperatures were wool > cotton=silk. The peak skin temperature for the wool dress was especially high compared to that for other fabrics. This is because wool has the lowest air permeability and is the thickest fabric and also the adsorption heat of wool is the highest compared to the others; that is, wool releases a high amount of initially adsorbed heat when absorbing water. The skin temperature decrease was the most rapid for the cotton dress during the recovery period, as in the resting period. This is due to the thinness of cotton and its having the highest air permeability of the three fabrics. Even in light of the chilling effect caused by perspiration during the recovery period, the wearer would have felt even more uncomfortable in the cotton dress. It is predicted that if the recovery period was prolonged past 30 minutes, the skin temperature would drop even further, making it more difficult for the body to maintain body temperature. This may be because the cotton dress was made of sheer muslin, while the silk dress was made of dense satin weave. Chest Skin Temperature Chest temperature during the resting period was about 33.3 o C (Figure 2). This was mainly because the torso of the body is the least affected by environmental temperature. During the early portion of the exercise period, the skin temperature declined about 2 o C, and during the latter portion of the exercise period, it reached 30.9 o C to 31.3 o C. Among the three robes, the wool robe showed the smallest decrease in chest skin temperature. Thus, the skin temperature decreased with the increase in air ventilation and the evaporation of chest perspiration. As heat is absorbed during the process of evaporation of sweat off the surface of the skin, skin temperature is lowered. During the recovery period, the skin temperature rose about 1.0 o C for 30 min, but this was not a complete recovery as the resulting skin temperature was only about 32 o C. This was 1.0 o C lower than skin temperature during the initial resting period, indicating that a longer time is required for wet skin to recover lost heat. When the environmental temperature is low, wet clothing due to sweat or rain is disadvantageous in maintaining normal skin temperature. From this result, it can be deduced that if people sweat from labor or movement while wearing low thermal insulation clothing, it is uncomfortable and unhealthy, unless they take proper precautions. Upper Arm Skin Temperature Because the upper arm was bare while wearing the empire dress, a dramatic decline in skin temperature was observed during the resting period (Figure 3). The skin temperature decreased by about 2 o C in 30 min, and the final temperature ranged from 28.2 o C to 28.9 o C at the end of the resting period with the lowest value observed in cotton robe. This is a very low skin temperature that would likely have negative effects on one s comfort and health. The normal upper arm skin temperature in static comfort for the body is known to be about 33 o C [14]. During the exercise period, the temperature dropped slightly during the initial period and then started to increase sharply. This increase may have been due to the muscle activity dilating the blood vessels in the skin and generating more heat as a result. The difference in the skin temperatures with the different clothing materials was relatively large ranging from temperatures from 0.8 to 1.0 o C, and this temperature difference was maintained during the recovery period as well. The peak temperatures were woo l > cotton > silk. Temperatures decreased again during the recovery period and then dropped below that of the resting period, when the decrease was steeper than that of the resting period. The downward slope of the temperature decrease depended on the fiber material of the garment. The slope was the steepest in cotton, then silk, and then wool. Therefore, wool would be more helpful in maintaining thermal comfort in wearers. If the data recordings could have been performed for longer Figure 2. Chest skin temperature changes of upon wearing the different garments according to the experimental conditions. Figure 3. Upper arm skin temperature changes upon wearing the different garments according to the experimental conditions.

5 Skin Temperature & Discomfort Wearing Sheer Dress Fibers and Polymers 2016, Vol.17, No Figure 4. Thigh skin temperatures upon wearing the different garments according to the experimental conditions. than 30 minutes during the recovery period, the temperature would have dropped even further. Thigh Skin Temperature The observations for thigh skin temperature were similar to those of the chest in regards to the skin temperature being maintained throughout the resting period (Figure 4). The temperatures in the initial and final resting periods were similar, approximately 30.2 o C, and this was because the thighs were covered by the fabric, where a fixed air layer between the garment and the skin was maintained. However, this skin temperature is still considered to be low, as the normal thigh skin temperature for body comfort is about 32 o C [14]. The skin temperature during the resting period (about 30.2 o C) gradually started to decrease owing to convection during the initial exercising period. Throughout the exercising period, it began to rise. The temperature peaked during the initial recovery period (31.5 o C) and then started to decrease again. Despite increasing immediately after exercise, the peak temperature was still a relatively low skin temperature. During the recovery period, the skin temperature showed recovery, higher than that of the resting period. The thighs had the smallest difference in skin temperatures among the different fiber material types. This was likely due to the presence of relatively stationary air space from the waist down in the high-waist dresses. Calf Skin Temperature The temperature decrease in the calf during the resting period was similar to that of the mean skin temperature; about 1 o C decreased at the end of resting period and the slope was also the least steep in the case of wool and the steepest in cotton, and a great deal of fluctuation in skin temperature was observed during the resting period and the recovery period and this seems because there is a robe opening (or slit) near the calf. (Figure 5). During the initial exercising period, the skin temperature decreased for a short while and then rose rapidly. Changes in skin temperature were relatively rapid during the exercise period, increase about 2 o C. After reaching the peak temperature in the Figure 5. Calf skin temperature changes upon wearing the different garments according to the experimental conditions. recovery period, the skin temperature dropped but the downward slope was steeper than that of the resting period. In addition, there appeared to be a relatively large difference of about 1 o C in the skin temperatures according to the type of textile. The calf area had a relatively large change in skin temperature compared to the rest of the body. Generally, the skin temperatures throughout the experiment were as follows wool > silk > cotton. The changes in skin temperature in the upper arm and calf were more pronounced than that in the chest and thigh, and the changes increased throughout the experiment (rest period < exercise period recovery period). Changes in Metabolic Rate During the 30 minutes of the resting period, the energy metabolism was about 1.0 Met, but it increased to 5.0±0.5 Met during the exercising period (Figure 6). The metabolic rate declined quickly as soon as the exercising period was over. During the 30-minute recovery period, it decreased to less than 0.8 Met. Therefore, it can be assumed that people feel colder during the recovery period than the resting period due to the lower heat production. During the resting period, there was no difference in metabolism according to textile type, but the metabolic rate differed during the exercising period and recovery period. Figure 6. Metabolic rates observed upon wearing the different garments according to the experimental conditions.

6 968 Fibers and Polymers 2016, Vol.17, No.6 Jisu Kim and Youngjoo Na Table 2. Thermal resistance of the three empire dresses (clo units) Experimental process Wool Silk Cotton Average 1 Rest period (average of 25 to 30 min.) Exercise period (average of 55 to 60 min.) Recovery period (average of 85 to 90 min.) Overall average (excluding exercise period) Wool and cotton showed higher energy metabolism compared to that with silk. Since wool and cotton are the fabrics of spun yarns; these could have interfered with body movement as these fabrics have higher frictional resistance due to protruding short staple fibers. Even though the same exercise was performed with the same motion, an ineffective amount of work would increase in the presence of discomfort from clothing, such as tightness or difficulty of movement. As the useless workload increased, energy metabolism also increased. Wool and cotton had an increased friction when skin was wet with sweat, thus interrupting the physical activity. Calculation of Thermal Insulation of the Robe From the performance of keeping skin temperature elevated, thermal insulation of the garment was calculated with air temperature and energy metabolism through human wear-test as wool 0.29 clo, cotton 0.26 clo and silk 0.27 clo at rest period. Thus, the thermal insulation of these robes, defined as the mean value during resting period, was overall average of 0.27 clo, and that during the recovery period this average value was 0.31 clo for the elevated skin temperature (Table 2). Of note, the thermal insulation of robes during the exercising period was 0.04 clo, a value that is too low to be calculated from the latent wet heat loss due to heat loss from evaporation of sweat. In addition, we think this is due to convective heat loss from an exercising body. Dynamic insulation during exercise ranges from 24 to 51 % lower than static insulation because the air movement through garment openings and fabric pores increases convective heat loss, due to the so-called as pumping effect [18]. Changes on Subjective Feelings Thermal Sensation Subjective thermal sensation is shown in Figure 7: despite the room temperature of 18 o C, subjects felt cool (3) through the extreme very cold (1) of the resting period, however during the exercise period, sensation changed to hot (8) or very hot (9). This means women had to work with medium load to feel thermal comfort while wearing this robe. After exercising and sweating, thermal sensation suddenly dropped to neutral (5) for five minutes. After that, the subjects gradually felt colder as body cooling began. Among the robes, cotton felt coldest, both while resting and exercising. Figure 7. Thermal sensation reported upon wearing the different garments according to the experimental conditions. At first, the softer and airy cotton felt warmer due to the psychological responses of subjects, then within 10 min cotton was found to be the coldest due to its lack of thermal insulation, and the high air permeability of thin fabric resulted in a less hot feeling during the exercise period. During the recovery period, thermal sensation was of fabric was wool > cotton > silk, and this seemed to be due to; larger heat absorption properties were attributed to wool. Predicted Mean Vote (PMV) The calculated PMV ranged from -2.8 (cold = -3.0) to +2.2 (hot = +3.0) across the entire experiment. The PMVs are reported in Figure 8: with the exception of the exercising period (warm +2.0), resting period for cool (-2.5 to -1.5), and recovery period for cold (-2.8 to -1.5), the subjects felt cold (-2.8) especially when they had just finished their exercise. Due to the evaporation of sweat, the skin temperature decreased and subjects must have felt colder despite the same indoor temperature. Similarly, when it rained or when there was still sweat left on the skin, even worse on a windy day, women must have felt uncomfortable as their bodies cooled. Over time, PMV and subjective thermal sensation were similar but slightly differed in values [17]. However, the PMV value did not take into consideration the occurrence of sweat and the water vapor resistance of clothing that Figure 8. Predicted mean vote (PMV) reported for the garments according to the experimental conditions at different time-points.

7 Skin Temperature & Discomfort Wearing Sheer Dress Fibers and Polymers 2016, Vol.17, No Table 3. Predicted percentage of dissatisfied (PPD) of the three empire dresses (%) Condition Wool Silk Cotton 1 Rest period (average of 1 to 5 min.) Rest period (average of 25 to 30 min.) Exercise period (average of 45 to 50 min.) Exercise period (average of 55 to 60 min.) Recovery period (average of 65 to 70 min.) Recovery period (average of 85 to 90 min.) Overall average could influence the mean skin temperature. PMV, an index derived from large data, has a high accuracy during a dry test environment, thus when the physiological response of clothing is dynamic as occurs during the exercise procedure, the subjective thermal sensation could be different in terms of PMV. Table 3 shows PPD calculated through computer estimation derived from PMV values and shows the difference of figure in six periods; overall 72.1 % (wool) to 76.0 % (cotton) of women were dissatisfied thermally with the garment at a room temperature of 18 o C. As like the changes in thermal insulation due to the changing skin temperature by test process, the PMV and PPD have changed, thus we took two 5 min durations in each rest, exercise, and recovery periods to acquire those values. In this case, the PPD was highest also for the cotton robe, and corresponded to the above results: skin temperature, thermal resistance and thermal sensation. During the latter part of the resting period, almost 30 min sitting showed a PPD of 83.2 to 91.1 %, the exercise period showed a PPD of 72.2 to 86.7 % with a small decrease in dissatisfaction, and especially high values appeared in later part of the recovery period reaching 92.4 to 97.3 %. Conclusion The empire dress robe clearly lacked thermal insulation during the windy and cold European winter season, and women must have felt cold, based on the evidence of low skin temperatures. But until today, we didn t have the proof for this fact. Thus this study was to find out thermal physiological responses of women wearing empire style dress from the human wearing test. Mean skin temperature fell to 30 o C within 30 min sitting in 18 o C room. When exercise period the temperature increased but after exercise the sweat made the skin temperature much lower than the first one of rest period: the steeper decrease rate occurred. During recovery, all skin temperatures except that of the chest decreased even more rapidly than during the resting period, due to heat loss from sweat evaporation after exercise, which appeared to be more harmful to women s health. Energy metabolism was 1.0 Met in the resting period, but it rose sharply to about 5.0±0.3 Met during the exercising period. Immediately after exercise, energy metabolism decreased sharply and went through a gradual decline during the recovery period until dropped below 0.8 Met. The textile characteristics played a role in determining energy metabolism; the light crepe-back satin silk conformed better to the body s figure, whereas the hairy wool and crisp cotton increased friction and interfered with the body s movement, increasing the energy metabolism of the body. Thermal insulation of clothing was calculated using skin temperature and energy metabolism. The results were different from the thermal insulation data obtained from the thermal manikin model being approximately 66 % less. Using a thermal manikin, it is very difficult to model moisture transport and energy exchange of an exercising human body. Therefore, it is necessary to combine the results from both the thermal manikin and the human-wear test. Even though the climate chamber s temperature was 18 o C not quite low, subjects felt very cold during the resting period due to the lack of thermal insulation of the robe, but their responses changed to very hot during the exercising period. During the recovery period, subjective thermal sensation fell quickly to neutral and then became cool-cold. Upon completing the exercise, PMV was calculated to be -2.8 in maximum at the recovery period, which equates to an unsatisfactory environment. At this point of the period, more than 92.4 % of subjects felt uncomfortable [17]. This value of percentage found meaningful to calculate the PMV with related to PPD. Since PMV calculations do not take sweating and the heat loss of wet clothing into consideration, the subjects would actually be at a greater discomfort than those indicated by the PPD values, which calls for a more careful interpretation when the subjects are in a dynamic exercise condition. We found the skin temperature of subjects wearing the empire style dresses to be quite low, and the body s physiological responses to the dress showed a huge level of discomfort due to the cold temperatures. This would especially be true after sweating after experiencing physical activity or during rainy weather when the dress got wet; women wearing the dress must have found it very unpleasant, and moreover, they would have been more likely to become sick. Most of historic dress and textile research takes on a social/cultural history-based approach, and have not considered the physiological aspects of the human body in detail. These findings yield valuable insight to this new

8 970 Fibers and Polymers 2016, Vol.17, No.6 Jisu Kim and Youngjoo Na area of integrated research of costume history and comfort physiology. This study of the Empire style dress could provide an introduction to the unique research field that combines costume history and technology. These dresses that were popular in the past century should be reviewed for their physiological impact in order to explore novel hypotheses as well as to accumulate objective data in the design of healthy clothing. Acknowledgments This research was supported by NRF-2013R1A1A2A & Inha university grant. References 1. J. Arnold, Costume, 4, 17 (1970). 2. N. Bradfield, Costume in Detail , pp.9-12, Nancy Sayer, London, L. Regnault, J. Univers. Des Sci. Méd., 3/4, 108 (1816). 4. R. Dubos and J. Dubos, Tuberculosis, Man, and Society: The White Plague, 3rd ed., pp.15-19, New Brunswick, Rutgers University Press, New Jersey, H. S. Kim, H. D. Ghim, and Y. H. Lee, Fiber. Polym., 9, 232 (2008). 6. K. Choi, H. C. Chung, B. Lee, K. Chung, G. Cho, M. Park, Y. Kim, and S. Watanuki, Fiber. Polym., 6, 343 (2005). 7. G. Havenith, Exog. Dermatol., 1, 221 (2002). 8. P. O. Fanger, Thermal Comfort, Analysis and Applications in Environmental Engineering, p.213, McGraw-Hill, New York, R. Yao, B. Li, and J. Liu, Build. Environ., 44, 2089 (2009). 10. H. Han, M. Park, S. Lee, H. Cheon, and S. Park, Sci. Emot. Sensibil., 6, 33 (2003). 11. Y. Na and J. Kim, Int. J. Cloth. Sci. Tech., 27, 589 (2015). 12. ISO 10551, International Standardisation Organisation, Geneva, R. Splendore, F. Dotti, B. Cravello, and A. Ferri, Int. J. Cloth. Sci. Tech., 23, 283 (2011). 14. J. Y. Lee, E. S. Ko, H. H. Lee, J. Y. Kim, and J. W. Choi, Int. J. Cloth. Sci. Tech., 2/3, 184 (2010). 15. ISO 11092, International Standardisation Organisation, Geneva, H. Mayer and P. Hoppe, Theor. Appl. Climatol., 38, 43 (1987). 17. ISO 7730, International Standardisation Organisation, Geneva, E. A. McCullough and S. A. Hong, ASHRAE Transactions, 100, 765 (1994).