The Makers Customized. Tips & tricks

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Kenneth Underwood
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1 The Makers Customized Tips & tricks

2 We congratulate you with your choice for The Makers Customized and in this document we will guide you to make this collection a commercial success. The concept The Makers Customized introduces a new and more younger interpretation of classic made-to-measure. We believe in a personal touch of the product instead of designing complicated size alterations. Our consumer group wants to stands out from the ordinary presenting his unique personal style cut and tailored in a perfect fit. The consumer Not all consumers are unique and you have to take in consideration that only 60% of all consumers fit a regular size and that even within these 60% the body shapes are different due to sports and age. For this reason it s impossible to develop just one model that fits all and within the Customized range you will find different fits for different consumer groups. Selecting the right fit So before you select a fit you first need to know what type of consumer you are targeting. For example a young consumer has a different body shape than a mature one and therefor needs a totally different proportion in the model. 2

Male body shapes For the development of the basic fitting blocks our

This selection is based on the information of military records, North

The body s are divided in four silhouettes; slim, athletic, mature and

for a size 50 and it is the waist, hip and upper-arms that make a

For the first two body shapes we developed the block Paris with it s

3 Male body shapes For the development of the basic fitting blocks our patternmakers made a selection of the four most average body shapes. This selection is based on the information of military records, North European size charts and off course internal know-how. The body s are divided in four silhouettes; slim, athletic, mature and corpulent and all four body types start with the same chest of 100 cm for a size 50 and it is the waist, hip and upper-arms that make a difference. For the first two body shapes we developed the block Paris with it s particular straight shoulder and smaller armholes. For the second two body shapes we developed model Daniel with a more sloped shoulder and a bigger chest. 3

Female body shapes For the female body shapes we have a different approach

models Daphne and Amelia with extra chest darts to obtain a slimmer

4 Female body shapes For the female body shapes we have a different approach and are divided in four different body shapes based on the balance between breast and hips. For the first two groups The Makers Customized developed two pre-designed models Daphne and Amelia with extra chest darts to obtain a slimmer waistline. Model Waiku is a more average model which can be used for all four body types and has less difference between breast and waist. 4

5 Natural position Before you start the alteration process it s very important that the consumers stands in a natural position. This position is crucial because consumers tend to take a more stressed position during the total process. Body positions Next to the body shapes the body position plays a crucial role in the hole alteration process and an easy trick is to place the consumer to a wall and ask him to take a natural position. In this position you can immediately see if the consumer has a hollow back or tends to lean forwards. 5

6 Reading the pleats In the natural position it is now possible to see what alterations are necessary. In many cases the alterations become visible on the fitted garment by showing pleats. In the alteration manuals you will find drawings which will help you to read these pleats and show you the steps for the alterations. Secondly you will see the pattern parts which will be modified for this alteration. The green line on the pattern part is the standard pattern-line of the model and the blue line shows the reduction and the red line shows the surplus. Look carefully to this pattern drawings because here you can see how the alteration will effect the fit and how it will influence not only just one particular point but stretches over a complete area. If you have any doubt about an alteration it is an easy trick to take a smaller or bigger size from your size-set. For example if the fitting size is okay but you want to make the shoulder smaller just try a smaller size and look if this shoulder is okay and measure the difference between both shoulders. The trousers We suggest to start with the trousers because it gives after fitting the jacket a complete look of the suit. Crucial with the right fit of the trouser are the hips, so if the hips are to tight just try a size bigger and reduce the waistband. The jacket For the jackets the shoulders are the starting point for every fit session and if the shoulder and the chest are okay you can start with your size alterations. If the shoulder is too big or too narrow it s better to fit a smaller or bigger size and to adjust the waist. Please note that all consumers are different and specially a difference between the right and left shoulder is quit normal. 6

The waistline If the customer tend to have a prominent seat, horizontal pleats will appear on the back-waist of the jacket and the back-waist must be

If the front-waist is okay but the consumers shows a sway back too much fabric will appear on the back and fabric must be decreased on the back-waist.

until the pleats disappear. Technical speaking this means that the pattern must be moved to back.

7 The waistline If the customer tend to have a prominent seat, horizontal pleats will appear on the back-waist of the jacket and the back-waist must be increased. If the front-waist is okay but the consumers shows a sway back too much fabric will appear on the back and fabric must be decreased on the back-waist. Arm position If in a natural position the sleeves do not fall straight and creases form at the back of the sleeve you have to move the arms to the front until the pleats disappear. Technical speaking this means that the pattern must be moved to back. If the creases form at the front of the sleeve you have to move the arm to the back till the creases disappear and in this case the patternmaker has to move the sleeve to the front. In both cases you pin the natural position of the sleeve on the pocket, move the sleeve until the pleats disappear and pin this position on the pocket and measure the distance between both pins. 7

Shoulders If the shoulders are too wide fabric will drop down under the edge of the shoulder

If the shoulder is too narrow a pleat will appear starting from the armhole up to the shoulder

A better solution is to try a bigger or smaller size and work on the waist and hip.

8 Shoulders If the shoulders are too wide fabric will drop down under the edge of the shoulder padding to the bottom of the armhole and the Shoulders distance has to be reduced. If the shoulder is too narrow a pleat will appear starting from the armhole up to the shoulder and in this case we have to increase the shoulders. A better solution is to try a bigger or smaller size and work on the waist and hip. Neck pleat If the customer has straight shoulders and a prominent chest a pleats will appear below the neck. In this case we have to reduce the upper-back as in instruction JA 07. 8

9 Flat seat If the consumer has a flat seat an excess of fabric will show below the seat and the back rise looks too high so in this case we pull the back-rise up in a natural position and to reduce the difference in hight and secondly we have to control the crotch and if necessary reduce it ( instruction TA04 & TA07 ). Prominent seat In case the customer has a prominent seat the trouser will pull towards the front of the legs and the back rise looks too short. In this case we have to add more back-rise and crotch or even better try a bigger size and reduce the waistband if necessary. 9

Heavy tights If the consumer has heavy tights the trouser will pull back in the

In this case we have to add extra crotch and tight as in the alteration manual

Prominent front In case the customer has a prominent front we have two options, one

falls over the belly in case the customer wears the trouser with suspenders.

10 Heavy tights If the consumer has heavy tights the trouser will pull back in the crotch and there is too much tension on the upper-leg. In this case we have to add extra crotch and tight as in the alteration manual under TA 07. An easy trick is to use a bigger size and to measure the difference. Prominent front In case the customer has a prominent front we have two options, one is to lower the front rise below the belly or is to increase the front rise till it falls over the belly in case the customer wears the trouser with suspenders. Please note that the reduction of the front-rise is limited and that a lower rise can block the trouser on the upper-leg. 10

11 Size charts Size chart model Daniel Regular Centre back 74,5 75,5 76,5 77,5 78,5 79,5 80,5 81,5 82,5 83,5 84,0 84,5 Sleeve length 62,0 63,0 64,0 65,0 66,0 67,0 68,0 69,0 70,0 71,0 72,0 73,0 Waist closed 88,2 92,0 96,0 100,0 104,0 108,0 112,0 117,0 122,0 127,0 131,6 136,6 Tall Centre back 77,0 78,0 79,0 80,0 81,0 82,0 83,0 84,0 84,9 85,9 86,4 86,9 Sleeve length 63,5 64,5 65,5 66,5 67,5 68,5 69,5 70,5 71,5 72,5 73,5 74,5 Waist closed 86,2 90,0 94,0 98,0 102,0 106,0 110,0 115,0 120,0 125,0 129,6 134,6 1/ Centre back 73,0 74,0 75,0 76,0 77,0 78,0 79,0 80,0 81,0 82,0 82,5 83,0 Sleeve length 59,5 60,5 61,5 62,5 63,5 64,5 65,5 66,5 67,5 68,5 69,5 70,5 Waist closed 93,0 97,0 101,0 105,0 109,0 113,0 117,0 122,0 127,0 132,0 136,6 141,6 All sizes are based on the standard model without client specific alterations 11

12 Size charts Size chart model Paris Regular Centre back 73,0 74,0 75,0 76,0 77,0 78,0 79,0 80,0 81,0 82,0 82,5 83,0 Sleeve length 61,3 62,3 63,3 64,3 65,3 66,3 67,3 68,3 69,3 70,3 71,3 72,3 Waist closed 82,2 86,0 90,0 94,0 98,0 102,0 106,0 111,0 116,0 121,0 126,0 130,6 Tall Centre back 75,5 76,5 77,5 78,5 79,5 80,5 81,5 82,5 83,5 84,5 85,0 85,5 Sleeve length 63,8 64,8 65,8 66,8 67,8 68,8 69,8 70,8 71,8 72,8 73,8 74,8 Waist closed 80,2 84,0 88,0 92,0 96,0 100,0 104,0 109,0 114,0 119,0 124,0 128,8 1/ Centre back 71,5 72,5 73,5 74,5 75,5 76,5 77,5 78,5 79,5 80, ,5 Sleeve length 59,8 60,8 61,8 62,8 63,8 64,8 65,8 66,8 67,8 68,8 69,8 70,8 Waist closed 87,2 91,0 95,0 99,0 103,0 107,0 111,0 116,0 121,0 126,0 131,0 135,6 All sizes are based on the standard model without client specific alterations 12

13 Size charts Size chart model Balwin Regular Centre back 70,7 71,7 72,7 73,7 74,7 75,7 76,7 77,7 78,7 79,7 80,2 80,7 Sleeve length 61,5 62,5 63,5 64,5 65,5 66,5 67,5 68,5 69,5 70,5 71,5 72,5 Waist closed 87,4 91,0 95,0 99,0 103,0 107,0 111,0 116,0 121,0 126,0 131,0 135,8 Tall Centre back 73,2 74,2 75,2 76,2 77,2 78,2 79,2 80,2 81,2 82,2 82,7 83,2 Sleeve length 64,0 65,0 66,0 67,0 68,0 69,0 70,0 71,0 72,0 73,0 74,0 75,0 Waist closed 85,4 89,2 93,2 97,2 101,2 105,2 109,0 114, ,0 128,8 133,8 1/ Centre back 69,2 70,2 71,2 72,2 73,2 74,2 75,2 76,2 77,2 78,2 78,7 79,2 Sleeve length 60,0 61,0 62,0 63,0 64,0 65,0 66,0 67,0 68,0 69,0 70,0 71,0 Waist closed 92,4 96,0 100,0 104,0 108,0 112,0 116,0 121,0 126,0 131,0 136,0 140,8 All sizes are based on the standard model without client specific alterations 13

14 Size charts Size chart model Waiku Regular Centre back 63,8 64,2 64,5 65,0 65,5 66,0 66,4 66,8 67,2 67,6 68,0 68,4 68,8 69,2 Sleeve length 60,0 61,0 62,0 63,0 64,0 65,0 65,4 65,8 66,2 66,6 67,0 67,4 67,8 68,2 Waist closed 74,0 77,0 80,4 84,6 88,6 92,6 97,0 101, ,4 115,4 120, ,8 Hip 99,4 102,0 105,4 109,4 113,6 117,6 121,6 125,8 129,8 133,8 138,0 142,2 146,4 150,4 Size chart model Iranka Regular Waistband 69,2 72,6 76,0 80,0 84,0 88,0 92,4 96,4 100,6 104,8 109,4 114,0 118,6 123,2 Inside seam 84,0 84,0 84,0 84,0 84,0 84,0 84,0 84,0 84,0 84,0 84,0 84,0 84,0 84,0 ½ foot 19,5 20,0 20,5 21,0 21,5 22,0 22,5 23,0 23,5 24,0 24,5 25,0 25,5 26,0 Size chart model Palau Regular Waistband 67,0 71,0 75,0 79,0 83,0 87,0 91,0 95,0 99,0 103,0 107,0 111,0 115,0 Skirt length 56,5 57,0 57,5 58,0 58,5 59,0 59,5 60,0 60,5 61,0 61,5 62,0 62,5 All sizes are based on the standard model without client specific alterations 14

15 Fabric consumptions for coupons Daniel Jacket SB 2 button, flap pockets Loek Trouser plain front Size Plain Stripe < 4 cm Check < 16 cm Double Breasted Size Plain Stripe < 4 cm Check < 16 cm % % % % % % % % % % % % Please note; The consumption list is based on a regular size with standard flap pockets and without any size alterations. Size alterations will influence the end consumption and for cut length s 15% of fabric surcharge is needed 15

The Makers Customized

The Makers Customized Men Model Manual The Makers Customized Version 6-11-2016 1 Full option models 2 Full option jackets Model Paris Slim silhouette Higher armhole Soft Pagode shoulder Small sleeve-head