Fashion Design. Lesson 2: Style Through the Ages

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Rosa Stephens
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1 Fashion Design Lesson 2: Style Through the Ages

How does an idea become a real garment in a collection? How does location influence a designer s overall style?

2 General Overview What are the 3 types of designs/ collections? What type of planning/ organization goes into the development of a designer s collection? How does an idea become a real garment in a collection? How does location influence a designer s overall style? How long is the lifespan of a style? What events influenced the fashion trends of specific decades of time? What lasting style trends define particular decades of time in American culture?

3 Types of Fashion Haute Couture (Top Tier) Designer Label (Middle Tier) Mass Market (Bottom Tier) General Cost: $2000-$40,000 Mid-range $1000 or less Target Customer: Custom made for an individual; one-of-a kind Not made for individual customer; Limited production Clothes that cater to a wide range & large quantity of customers of varying sizes Garment Construction: Highest quality of materials; Look & fit are priority High quality & mass produced in small quantities Lower cost materials & techniques; Scaled down trims & notions; Standard sizing Additional Notes: Fine Tailoring Dominated until the 1950 s Examples: Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Kate Spade & Versace Ready-to-Wear or Off-the-Rack Examples: Old Navy, Gap, Abercrombie & Fitch, & Hollister

4 A Fashion Year: Getting Started Two main seasons Spring/Summer Autumn/ Winter A season requires a different fashion look & new range of colors & fabric designs for that specific time of year Spring/Summer: light-weight fabrics Autumn/Winter: heavier fabrics

5 A Fashion Year: Pre-planning a Fall Collection Designers work a year in advance In the Fall, the studio is working on next year s fall collection (a variety of garments in a grouping) Research All items in the collection (skirts, dresses, blouses, shoes, accessories, etc.) all complement each other Will be in style Will have the particular look the company is known for Predicting Trends Examine past trends & look for repeats Observe what has succeeded in the past with customers.

6 A Fashion Year: Settling on a Collection s Specifics Decide on a Theme Artists work with Fabric Designers to select a theme to represent a designers collection Where does the designer draw inspiration? A period of history, a foreign place, a range of colors, a type of fabric Designing the garments within a collection Decisions, decisions How many & what types of garments should be included in the collection? A Three-Month Sprint Design, produce, and publicize the collection before a runway show. Preview for the Press Photographers, critics, & buyers (individual & store) get their first look at the collection Production & Distribution to sellers Get the product into the stores & customers hands

7 Making A Garment: Inspiration to Runway Idea is created Sketch, draping of fabric on dress stand, or use patterns from a previous season Create a preliminary paper pattern Make a muslin sample Trial & adjustments On a dress stand or on a live model Professional pattern created for accuracy Sample Item in fashion fabric (in various colors) Fashion Show of finished design in the most attractive state

8 Fashion Capitols of the World London, England New York, USA Paris, France Milan, Italy Tokyo, Japan

9 Fashion Capitols & Reputations London, England Milan, Italy New York, USA Paris, France Tokyo, Japan Designers in these areas are known for: Unorthodox clothes for a young market & popular appeal; pioneered street style ; glamourous evening wear Casual elegance & luxurious fabrics Clean-cut casual style reflecting sporty, health-conscious life style; casual elegant clothes of natural fabrics; practical, sophisticated wear Chic & stylish Loose & unstructured resulting in complicated cutting techniques; rich fabrics & textures; subtle & somber colors; layered knitwear

10 Fashion, Trend, or Fad? Fashion: the currently accepted & prevailing style Fad: a fashion with a sudden burst of popularity Classic: a fashion that retains general acceptance over a very extended period of time Style: a characteristic or distinctive form of dress that exists independent of fashion; a person develops their own over time Design: a specific version of a style Trends: the movement of a fashion into the marketplace; how long a fashion remains popular Fashion Cycle: the introduction, rise, culmination, decline, and obsolescence of a given style over a period of time.

11 Fashion Cycle Fad Trend Classic

12 Style Through the Decades Fashion Trends are commonly influenced by: War & Unrest Economy Religion Politics Social changes Innovation

13 Looking Back: The Men of the 1930s In the 1930s, bigger was better, with double-breasted suits, full-cut trousers, and tuxedos with tails setting the standard for how a gentleman should dress. Also: the dawn of shirtless sunbathing.

Looking Back: The Women of the 1930s Lack of money during the Great

..the bias cut made popular by starlet Jean Harlow was made of silk or

There were also major fashion innovations during the Great Depression.

14 Looking Back: The Women of the 1930s Lack of money during the Great Depression affected everyday clothes...the bias cut made popular by starlet Jean Harlow was made of silk or satin and clung to a woman s curves, highlighting the feminine figure. There were also major fashion innovations during the Great Depression. Zippers became widespread. Costume jewelry, popularized by Coco Chanel s signature faux pearl strands became more affordable.

15 Looking Back: The Men of the 1940s In the 1940s, war changes everything. The government restricts the use of wool, and singlebreasted jackets and cuff- and pleat-free pants become the norm. Once the boys come home, big style roars back with wide lapels, spread collars, and roomy suits.

Looking Back: The Women of the 1940s Rationing during World War II

The idea of separates became popular as it allowed women to mix

When women went to work during the war, they needed safe clothing

16 Looking Back: The Women of the 1940s Rationing during World War II meant that dresses became slimmer with just enough fabric for regular movement. Clothes took on a sharper, military-inspired look. The idea of separates became popular as it allowed women to mix and match different components while actually owning fewer items. When women went to work during the war, they needed safe clothing that wouldn t snag in machinery, like men's pants. Trends followed suit such as the high-waisted trouser Katharine Hepburn made popular.

17 Looking Back: The Men of the 1950s In the 1950s, conservatism and conformity rule, with trim tailoring and similar accessories (hat, pocket square, cigarette, and martini) for just about everyone. Downtime sees the occasional glimpses of flair (shantung jackets, madras prints, Hawaiian shirts).

soft femininity of Christian Dior's "New

18 Looking Back: The Women of the 1950s Following the war, fashion saw a resurgence of haute couture. The harder military look was replaced by soft femininity of Christian Dior's "New Look" silhouette, characterized by a small, nipped-in waist and full skirt falling below mid-calf length, which contrasted greatly to the 1940s fabric austerity.

19 Looking Back: The Men of the 1960s In the 1960s, the revolution arrives, with JFK's patrician formality giving way to flared trousers, flower shirts, wide lapels, and other assorted grooviness.

Looking Back: The Women of the 1960s The 1960s saw

the early 1960s with her pillbox hats and geometric

Fashion in the late 1960s was just as revolutionary

Mod fashion meant flat shoes, sleek, almost

Representing the counter culture, hippie fashion

20 Looking Back: The Women of the 1960s The 1960s saw a number of diverse trends that mirrored the time's social movements. First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy was a style icon of the early 1960s with her pillbox hats and geometric suits. Fashion in the late 1960s was just as revolutionary as the times. Mod and hippie chic reigned. Mod fashion meant flat shoes, sleek, almost androgynous lines. Representing the counter culture, hippie fashion was almost the opposite of mod. The emphasis of their style was on comfort and flow. Women wore jeans, brightly colored, psychedelic patterns and non- Western inspired clothing.

21 Looking Back: The Men of the 1970s In the 1970s, the peacock revolution leads to the rise of loose-collared culture. Deconstructed tailoring (leisure suits, et al.) takes rise and floppy collars rule.

22 Looking Back: The Women of the 1970s The 1970s was the age of disco! The wrap dress, originated by Diane Von Furstenberg, was a staple for the woman going to the office in the day and out at night. Platform shoes gave way to mules and ankle-strapped shoes, both reminiscent of the 1940s, at the very end of the decade.

23 Looking Back: The Men of the 1980s In the 1980s, it's morning in America, with broad shoulders framing power ties and suspenders. Bold colors and convey a new national confidence.

Looking Back: The Women of the 1980s Pop culture

introducing risqué trends like visible bra straps

Fashion in the 1980s rejected the non-materialist

24 Looking Back: The Women of the 1980s Pop culture infiltrated the 1980s with superstars like Madonna introducing risqué trends like visible bra straps and wearing underwear as outerwear. Fashion in the 1980s rejected the non-materialist hippie values that had inspired much of the fashion in the 1970s. People were earning more money, and bigger meant better. The soap opera Dynasty popularized shoulder pads, which gave women, now more prevalent in the workplace, a "power dress" to feel equal to men in the office.

25 Looking Back: The Men of the 1990s In the 1990s, the bridge to the 21st century brings great change, with the loose, baggy silhouette of the early '90s leading to a slimmer suit profile. Business casual enters the lexicon.

26 Looking Back: The Women of the 1990s Grunge brought a simple, unkempt grunge look to mainstream fashion in the 1990s. The minimalist aesthetic contrasted to the more elaborate and flashy trends of the 1980s.

27 Looking Back: The Men of the 2000s In the 2000s, men start dressing up again, and the current era of sartorial individuality -- via colors, patterns, or style -- commences.

28 Looking Back: The Women of the 2000s In the 2000 s, women saw trends that returned to the classics.

29 Women s Fashion: Men s Fashion:

Milan, Italy. Fashion Capitals 2/12/18. Clean-cut and casual style Known for use of separates and sportswear Uses natural fabrics

Milan, Italy. Fashion Capitals 2/12/18. Clean-cut and casual style Known for use of separates and sportswear Uses natural fabrics 2/12/18 Milan, Italy Fashion Capitals Features casual elegance and luxurious fabrics such as Merino wool. Bright colors and bold ideas Milan Fashion 2017 Fashion Designers: Giorgio Armani Fendi Versace