South African Fashion Week Annual Report 2013 Information and Overview of Activities Published by CHANNEL F PUBLISHING March 2014 SA Fashion Week

Transcription

1 2013

2 South African Fashion Week Annual Report 2013 Information and Overview of Activities Published by CHANNEL F PUBLISHING March 2014 SA Fashion Week Collection Photographs Ivan Naude Event Photography Kat Grudko All Rights Reserved SA Fashion Week

3 CONTENTS INTRODUCTION VISION & MISSION PILLARS OF SA FASHION WEEK COLLECTIONS PROJECTS AREAS OF BUSINESS COMPETITIONS RETAIL & WHOLESALE GROWTH & DEVELOPMENT

4 INTRODUCTION Fashion has the power to bring about changes that can have a substantial impact on our economic and social lives. A key element in the success of the Creative Fashion Design Industry within a country is the luxury, ready-to-wear collections created by designers. This creates wealth and employment for the full value chain, from the textile designer right through to the service sector. We need to recognise the myriad of ways in which the fashion industry impacts both society and the economy. The support and development of local designers and manufacturers forms a crucial step in the development of an industry that plays a noteworthy role in the economy at large. In the Creative Fashion Industry all designers must invent their own work and at the same time their own enterprise. They must design and create clothes for everyday life and not only for important occasions which are increasingly few and far between. Highlighting the impact that fashion industries have on economies across the globe, Giorgio Armani, one of the most affluent designers, has amassed a fortune of $ 9.9 billion with the Armani brand. Ralph Lauren is currently positioned at $ 7 Billion, and Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana at $ 1, 65 billion each. The German textile merchant, Karl Albrecht and his family have accumulated the worth of $ 19.3 billion through the platform of fashion and retail. Even as a relatively unknown merchant to industry-outsiders, it is evident that the magnitude of scope within the industry is huge, and the affect it has on a country s economy is significant. Primarily, we need to create a culture of excellence, whereby design reflects the wellbeing of the wearer, and the high-quality in each garment cultivates the quality of everyday life. Vivienne Westwood, renowned British Designer and outspoken advocate of conscious consumption and human rights, embraces a mantra which SA Fashion Week identifies with buy less, choose well. It is this sentiment that raises awareness for the environment and encourages consumers to select well-made, high quality pieces that last a lifetime. We are living in an age when needs have been dispensed with. In all aspects of life, we are confronted with multiple choices. This means that we must be more discerning when it comes to choosing quality, and in doing so, engaging with our surroundings through understanding and knowledge. South African designers are talented and capable, and as such have the right to a place in the history of culture and fashion. This talent, however, exists in a single client-oriented way and that is what we need to turn around designers need to become aware of the power of the middle luxury market, and how they can tap into that without losing their individuality and originality. We need to learn that a precise, unbiased and inquisitive eye is just as important as breaking with the past to create something new. Designing a specific product, creating new identities constantly season by season is becoming more and more important. After all, brands need continuity, while fashion means constant change. Designers have the power to not only lead the country in Fashion Design but to create thousands of jobs. Designers need to take responsibility for their own future and succeed in their businesses. Lucilla Booyzen 1

5 THE BUSINESS OF FASHION From Left to Right: Clive Rundle (A/W14 & S/S13) Black Coffee (A/W14 & S/S13) VISION & MISSION South African Fashion Week is committed to the development of the South African fashion industry and has established its position as educators and mentors in the industry, since Our vision is to nurture an appreciation for South African fashion among consumers and to direct designers and the industry at large with a single-minded focus on The Business of Fashion which can connect our industry to both local and international consumers. SA Fashion Week assists fashion designers with business networking, skill development, market research and critical fashion industry know-how. It nurtures the craft and vision of each designer, but also creates a significant marketing platform that allows designers to become successful business people with a profitable brand. With an unwavering commitment to make a meaningful contribution to the growing fashion design industry and the country s economy, we are well-placed to offer the global fashion community a uniquely South African fashion experience. The continuing mission is to help and support successful local brands bridge the gap between retailers, clothing manufacturers and textile manufacturers to engender a distinctive South African fashion culture. SA Fashion Week has contributed toward the development of a powerful design-led fashion industry by consistently delivering the following: - A multi-faceted marketing platform for designers - Facilitating the transfer of industry experience, skills and know-how - Actively facilitating the improvement of local design outputs to match international standards - Enabling partnerships to allow micro-fashion design businesses to leverage the export infrastructure of larger textile clothing manufacturers - Hosting mentorship and educational programmes, workshops and seminars to provide designers with solid fundamental skills to enrich the development of the industry - Uplifting the value chain of creative fashion design. 2

6 Designers Over the past 17 years, the SA Fashion Week has shown the Collections of over 500 designers, comprising mostly of young designers whose careers were launched by SA Fashion Week. Every operation implemented at SA Fashion Week is designed to develop, educate and nurture South African designers and in turn create commercially-viable, sustainable businesses in the country. SA Fashion Week offers designers with key opportunities, such as the transfer of industry experience and mentorship, as well as the marketing tools to develop sustainable brand equity, constantly focussing on The Business of Fashion. SA Fashion Week has explored, introduced and created new revenue streams that have allowed our designers to establish more robust businesses and greater retail visibility. Fashion Capitals across the world possess individual characteristics; the 4 key fashion capitals which include New York, London, Paris and Milan with each differing from one another in their position within the fashion industry. Paris is renowned for high-end luxury garments, whereas London is exposed to modern designs integrated with a street-style influence. In Milan, a more stylistic approach to fashion trends is evident, while New York ties all the traits together at the peak of its Fashion Week. In South Africa, we have a unique approach to the application of fashion design stemming from an inspired nation of diversity, with strong culture points of reference. South African fashion possesses a cultural flair that caught the world s eye in 2013 with designers such as Mary Katrantzou showcasing an African-inspired Collection at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014, Givenchy s African-inspired Spring/Summer 2014 Collection at Paris Fashion Week, and Mara Hoffman s African-inspired collection at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014, to name but a few. We are inspired by our rich history and heritage, our unity and diversity. We find ourselves in an expressive, people-loving place. Living in a 3rd world country with 1st first world tastes allows us the freedom to be global while remaining local. Wandi Nzimande 3

7 THE BUSINESS OF FASHION From Left to Right: Rubicon (A/W14 & S/S13) Amanda Laird Cherry (S/S13) PILLARS OF SA FASHION WEEK Partners There would not be a South African Fashion Week (SAFW) without the like-minded partners that SAFW has aligned themselves with since the company s inception many of which provide services that have become integral to the unique experience SA Fashion Week has to offer. Great success stories come out of partnering with the right brands. SA Fashion Week has affiliated themselves with only top South African brands, who understand the importance of developing the Creative Fashion Design Industry into an Industry that is able to be one of the key players in the South African economy. In 2013, SA Fashion Week s partners included: Edgars Edgars has been SA Fashion Week s official and exclusive Fashion Retail Partner for the past three years. The partnership has demonstrated its on-going commitment with their continuous support of the SA Fashion Week retail development project the Edgars X SAFW Designer Capsule Stores in Edgars flagship Sandton City and Melrose Arch stores. In 2011, Edgars X SAFW Designer Capsule Stores were launched to the public at Edgars Melrose Arch and Sandton City stores. Top-selling SA Fashion Week designers have included designers Black Coffee, Colleen Eitzen, Cutterier by Laz Yani, Gert-Johan Coetzee, Rubicon and Sies!Isabelle. It s a significant mark of our commitment to the fashion industry and to the passionand extraordinary talent of local designers. South African design is in our DNA as a brand.we have long recognised their importance to ourfashion identityand we have readily opened our doors to local talent. Edcon CEO Jürgen Schreiber SA Fashion Week has collaborated on numerous events with Edgars during the year These events benefit the audience of both Edgars and SA Fashion Week creating touch points between South Africa design and fashion-loving consumers. Edgars Return on Investment 8:1 [1 January December 2013: Clipped by Newsclip Media Monitoring] For information on the Edgars X SAFW Designer Capsule Store, please refer to page

8 Motions & TRESemmé In 2013, TRESemmé & Motions Hair Care became official hair partners of SA Fashion Week. The partnership between the country s top fashion platform, and the premium international hair care brands in the Unilever stable, proved to be a strong collaboration from the start. Hair and fashion are integrally linked, says Sphe Mjadu, Public Relations Manager for Unilever South Africa, Personal Care. Style watchers scrutinize the season s catwalks not only for the new garment silhouettes but equally to spot the on-trend directions for the coming season s hair and make-up looks. The partnership was launched with The Sheer Glamour Collections by Motions and TRESemmé, and served as the official opening for the Spring/Summer 2013 showcase. The strength of The Sheer Glamour Collections lies in the defining of hair trends for the season. The Motions and TRESemmé teams raise the bar when it comes to industry standards, creating fashion-forward hair, inspiring beauty and fashion followers, and earning the reputation as a national and global leader in the hair industry. The prestigious show exudes glamour, combining high design with the latest summer 2013 hair looks, which were developed by stylists Matthew Mansoor for TRESemmé and Nthato Mashishi for Motions. Motions and TRESemmé launched 4 new hair looks each for the year Designers showcasing in The Sheer Glamour Collections included during Spring/Summer 2013: Black Coffee, Clive Rundle, Gert-Johan Coetzee, Muntsho by Leon von Solms, Rubicon, Stoned Cherie, Suzaan Heyns, Terrence Bray, Vesselina Pentcheva Motions & TRESemme Return on Investment: 9:1 [1 January 30 December 2013: Clipped by Newsclip Media Monitoring] According to Lucilla Booyzen, Director of SAFW, Motions Hair Care and TRESemmé are brands with credibility in the beauty and fashion worlds. The association allows South African innovation to be reflected in both fashion and hair trends in the world. Great hair is always in fashion is TRESemmé s international positioning that underpins the brand s sponsorship of New York Fashion Week and applies equally to the fashion-forward individual that we are targeting in South Africa through our association with the country s leading fashion platform. Janet Leamy, Senior Brand Manager Caucasian Hair Care TRESemmé 5

9 THE BUSINESS OF FASHION From Left to Right: Just* (S/S13) Bianca Warren (S/S13) Blaklisted (S/S13) Jacqui Emmanuel (S/S13) & Vesselina Pentcheva (S/S13) PILLARS OF SA FASHION WEEK Jameson SA Fashion Week is pleased to continue its solid partnership with Jameson, with the brand being the Official Alcohol partner of SA Fashion Week since saw Jameson host the SA Fashion Week Official Autumn/Winter Opening-Party, a perfect occasion to launch SA Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2014 Collections with media, the fashion industry and SA Fashion Week s VIPs. The launch-party was held on Wednesday, 02 October 2013 in Sandton. Jameson bars operated throughout SA Fashion Week s Collections, with each guest receiving a signature drink. Always ahead of the curve when it comes to urban and pop culture, Jameson Irish Whiskey has set itself uniquely apart as an exclusive yet edgy brand. This smooth position has been carefully distilled, and the brand s relationship and association with SA Fashion Week over the past 5 years has helped in doing so. Thus ensuring that Jameson is synonymous with the über-trendy and stylish innovators in the dynamic South African landscape. Sarit Reouveni Tomlinson, CEO of Capacity Relations Jameson Return on Investment 8:1 [1 January 30 December 2013: Clipped by Newsclip Media Monitoring] Lufthansa We are a citizen of the world and our sponsorship ties in with our corporate culture as a global carrier committed to the countries we serve, explains Axel Simon, Director Southern Africa for the Lufthansa Group. Being associated with the calibre, talent and quality of these South African designers is thrilling and indicative of the strong affinity we have for the country. The Lufthansa 1st Best Collections is a dynamic opportunity that highlights the importance of developing the craft, knowledge and experience of SA Fashion Week s designers. The dynamic of the platform ensures that all designers participate on equal grounds in terms of industry skill and experience, and concluding the collections is a lucky draw. Lufthansa German Airline funded the winning designer with a Travel Seminar to Mercedes Benz Berlin Fashion Week. In 2013, Anmari Honiball won the Lufthansa 1st Best Collections, and experienced a trip of a lifetime during the Travel Seminar in Berlin. This opportunity made it possible for SA Fashion Week to afford Anmari Honiball with exposure to a firstworld organisation and retail platform proving invaluable to her rapport with the international fashion scene. Lufthansa Return on Investment 18:1 [1 January 30 December 2013: Clipped by Newsclip Media Monitoring] 6

10 Samsung Samsung hosted the Samsung Galaxy Collection featuring Colleen Eitzen, Naked Ape and Rubicon at the Autumn/Winter 2014 Collections to coincide with the launch of its Galaxy S4 mobile phone. The signature print that designer Black Coffee developed for this occasion was a highlight of both the Samsung Galaxy show and the Black Coffee A/W 2014 show. Samsung Return on Investment 52:1 [1 January 30 December 2013: Clipped by Newsclip Media Monitoring] KZN Fashion Council SA Fashion Week and the Kwa-Zulu Natal Fashion Council (KZNFC) collaborated to boost retail-ready designers with a business skills learnership programme with the aim of bridging the gap between design skills and business knowledge. The programme interlinks to SA Fashion Weeks core focus on The Business of Fashion. This programmes provides invaluable development for participating designers, and tools for talented designers to actively apply themselves in their trade. Young designers benefited from the two-month 21 Steps to Retail programme, in which they were taught by leaders in the fashion and business sector, which helped designers create polished collections and structured business plans. Shavera Sayed, Programme Director of KZN Fashion Council. KZN Fashion Council Return on Investment 7:1 [for Spring/Summer 2013 alone] [1 January 30 December 2013: Clipped by Newsclip Media Monitoring] Read more detail on the programme and partnership between SAFW and KZN Fashion Council on page 11. 7

11 THE BUSINESS OF FASHION From Left to Right: Lunar (A/W13) Suzaan Heyns (S/S13 & A/W14) Suzaan Heyns and Minnie Mouse (A/W14) PILLARS OF SA FASHION WEEK Disney Disney approached SA Fashion Week to collaborate with local designer Suzaan Heyns, requesting a sponsor tribute to of one of their leading ladies, Minnie Mouse. SA Fashion Week designer Suzaan Heyns was honoured as the first African designer chosen to pay tribute to an iconic Disney character. The Inspired by Minnie campaign was first unveiled at London Fashion Week in 2012, and included key fashion designers across the globe. 11 international designers, including Michael Van Der Ham, Giles, Richard Nicoll and Tatty Devine, to name but a few, implemented the campaign for their international runway collections. Each designer created unique Minnie Mouse Must-Haves for their collections. Suzaan Heyns showcased her Inspired by Minnie campaign at SA Fashion Week s Autumn/Winter 2014 Collections. 6 of the bespoke garments and accessories were auctioned in conjunction with a nationwide search for an aspiring fashion designer to win an apprenticeship with Suzaan Heyns. The Suzaan Heyns Inspired by Minnie Autumn/Winter 2014 Collection will be available April 2014, from her store in Melrose Arch. I find inspiration everywhere, and in everything that surrounds me. Fashion should never inspire fashion. My inspiration is drawn from the everyday things art, buildings, and architecture. I travel as much as I can and make in-depth studies of sources of inspiration. My label is very much art-based, and I immerse myself fully in my chosen themes. Suzaan Heyns, Designer A collaboration such as this epitomises the forward-thinking of SA Fashion Week and its designers, and generated huge awareness for Suzaan Heyns, SA Fashion Week and a significant return on investment for Disney. Disney Return on Investment 34:1 [1 January December Clipped by Newsclip Media Monitoring] 8

12 Crowne Plaza SA Fashion Week has been hosted at the Crowne Plaza Johannesburg - The Rosebank for the past four years. The venue is exceptional for the production of SA Fashion Week, suiting the high-end approach of the event. The venue integrates a marquee that is installed to host the runway shows. The Crowne Plaza sees at least guests a year, attending SA Fashion Week s bi-annual seasonal collections. It is an honour for Crowne Plaza Johannesburg - The Rosebank to host and be associated with such a prestigious event. Each show leaves a long lasting impression of excellence while the trend-setting personalities and stimulating ambiance that surrounds the event is breath-taking. Crowne Plaza Johannesburg The Rosebank In addition to hosting SA Fashion Week, the Crowne Plaza Johannesburg The Rosebank also hosts Fashion Wednesdays a networking platform that highlights the key performing South African designer of the month. This is another avenue that SA Fashion Week has created to benefit designers by linking them media and VIP guests, enhancing their brand presence in the industry and generating positive awareness. Crowne Plaza Return on Investment 108:1 [1 January 30 December 2013: Clipped by Newsclip Media Monitoring] Nedbank As a bank for small businesses, Nedbank partners with enterprises with growth potential as its commitment to a contributing to a stronger South African economy. Nedbank again joined hands with SA Fashion Week as an extension of its Vote Small Business initiative which seeks to create an environment for Small Medium Enterprise (SMME) sector to thrive. Nedbank hosted a Designer Lounge at the SA Fashion Week Pop-Up Shop to highlight its commitment to the SMME sector. As a bank for small businesses, Nedbank continues to partner small businesses to assist in growth for a greater South Africa and has once again joined hands with SA Fashion Week to amplify the voice of small business. This association is an extension of the Vote Small Business initiative, which seeks to create an environment where small businesses can thrive.in its true ethos of Make Things Happen, Nedbank supports the creation of home grown designer labels and brands, to help champion a sustainable vibrant society and economy. Nedbank Nedbank Return on Investment 17:1 [For Autumn/Winter 2014 alone] [1 January 30 December 2013: Clipped by Newsclip Media Monitoring] 9

13 THE BUSINESS OF FASHION From Left to Right: Mej. Lues by Hanrie Lues (S/S13 & A/W14) Yadah Exclusive Designs (A/W14) Sies!Isabelle (A/W14 & S/S13) PILLARS OF SA FASHION WEEK Renault In 2013 an effective partnership between Renault and SA Fashion Week saw the launch of the SAFW Renault New Talent Search. The competition was open to designers who were working towards establishing themselves and/or their brands in the local fashion industry. The SAFW Renault New Talent Search is one of the most established and prestigious fashion talent searches in South Africa. It is an annual competition that both identifies South Africa s hottest design talent and provides the winning designer with a springboard (and therefore competitive business advantage) into SA s vibrant fashion arena, Dion Chang. Renault is a people-centric brand and a key element of our vision is to support emerging talent wherever and however possible. It is young South Africans who will Drive the Change and ensure the sustainability of South Africa s fashion industry in years to come. Lee-Anne Stanton Advertising Manager: Renault South Africa Renault Return on Investment 24:1 [1 January 30 December 2013: Clipped by Newsclip Media Monitoring] Revlon In 2013, a naturally-suitable fit was established when Revlon joined forces with SA Fashion Week as the official Makeup Partner for SA Fashion Week s A/W 2014 Collections. Revlon South Africa s official Makeup Artist, Vuyo Varoyi created special lip looks for SA Fashion Week based on the season s trending colours, using their new Super Lustrous Lipstick and Lip-gloss ranges. Revlon also used the platform to host Makeup Stations during the event. Experimental and fun lip looks represent a major trend in fashion. We are about to launch a fabulous Super Lustrous TM Lip Campaign, featuring Revlon Global Ambassador Emma Stone and Revlon South Africa Brand Ambassador Bonang Matheba, and SA Fashion Week is the perfect opportunity for us to showcase this range Pumza Payi, Marketing Director Revlon South Africa Revlon Return on Investment 31:1 [1 January 30 December 2013: Clipped by Newsclip Media Monitoring] 10

14 Education SA Fashion Week focuses on development through mentorship and education. Under the direction of Lucilla Booyzen, SA Fashion Week implements the most effective methods and tools to improve the business skills of designers. Education initiatives in 2013 included the following: Capacity Building Programme 21 Steps to Retail In association with the KwaZulu-Natal Fashion Council, Lucilla Booyzen created and implemented the 21 Steps to Retail Programme. The KZN Fashion Council Capacity Building Programme ran for a period of 6 weeks. The programme builds on SA Fashion Week s vision of creating a design-led fashion industry, which can play an important role in the global fashion community. It also provides all designers involved with the skill-set and knowledge to become professional fashion designers within the industry. Having received a fashion degree or diploma, many designers are still short of the necessary skills set to create and sustain their own businesses. The 21 Steps to Retail programme was created to fill the gaps by putting together a highly skilled team of lecturers including Lucilla Booyzen, Terrence Bray, Gavin Reddy and Annette Pringle all currently specialists in their fields and presenting on subjects which cover all aspects of the industry from the creative side to the business of fashion. Lecturers served as constant support to participating designers. The aim of the programme was to provide upliftment in knowledge and skills for already-qualified designers just entering the industry, and to deliver a comprehensive programme covering all aspects of the retail/ready-to-wear side of fashion. This is needed in order for designers to establish a sustainable business platform from which to launch their brands to the industry. Designers were provided with the platform to showcase at SA Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2014 Collections and the Buyers Lounge, October 2013, as their springboard into the industry. Mission: - To introduce and teach the Designer about the full value chain of Fashion - To provide Designers with in-depth knowledge and skills to participate in the value chain with confidence, from design to retail - Training designers to embrace their personal design signature, combining individuality, problem awareness and technical know-how in innovative concepts - To provide the necessary tools to participate with success in the local and international fashion arenas - To develop and enhance designers that already work in the field, with the tools to build themselves as successful and powerful businesses making an impact on the lives of others - Provide designers with retail experience - To educate designers on the importance and power of fashion and the Fashion Industry at large - Equipping designers with improved marketing skills to develop themselves as recognised and sustainable brands 11

15 THE BUSINESS OF FASHION From Left to Right: Casey Jeanne (A/W14) Stoned Cherrie (S/S13) Colleen Eitzen (S/S13) Sober (A/W14) PILLARS OF SA FASHION WEEK The programme was offered free of charge to the participants who were selected based on the following criteria: - Completion of a diploma/degree in fashion design - Minimum current business turnover - The results achieved during the programme were brought to life with the designers respectively showcased their collections at the KZNFC Fashion Show at both SA Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2013 and Autumn/Winter 2014 Collections. The following KZN designers were chosen to participate in SA Fashion Week s, by showcasing their Autumn/Winter 2014 Collections on the runway: - Casey Jeanne - Claire Mackenzie - Larisa Terblanche - Ludwig Bezuidenhout - Thembeka Vilakazi The following KZN designers took part in SA Fashion Week s Autumn/Winter 2014 Buyers Lounge: - Avisha Nandkumar - Jacqueline Munsami - Mthunzi Mthembu - Sfiso Sabelo - Sarojini Moodley All of the programme representatives are specialists in their field, and offered the participating designers a rare opportunity to access their exceptional industry expertise. Lucilla Booyzen, Director of SA Fashion Week Being in the 21 Steps of Retail Capacity Building programme has moulded me into becoming a better designer and business person, and has assisted me becoming an official business owner. Thank you to Lucilla Booyzen and the incredible panel for awarding me this once in a lifetime opportunity. Jacqueline Emmanuel, Participant of the 21 Steps to Retail Programme 12

16 Talks SA Fashion Week is acknowledged for hosting highly informative seminars. SA Fashion Week maintains this as it creates an educational platform that benefits all parties involved and uplifts the partners of SA Fashion Week. The following talks were organized and hosted in 2013: Joy Donovan World Class Exhibition Seminar Joy Donovan is a leading specialist in the exhibition and events industry, mentoring individuals and companies on exhibition organisation. Her coaching results in optimised outcomes for events, exhibitions and trade shows. To ensure that maximum sales were generated for the upcoming SA Fashion Week Pop-Up Shop, SA Fashion Week created the opportunity for Joy Donovan to host a seminar on how to optimize exhibition spaces. A short-course was held on 07 August 2013 in preparation for the SA Fashion Week Pop-Up Shop, with 20 Johannesburgbased designers participating. Anmari Honiball Berlin Fashion Week S/S 2014 Seminar Anmari Honiball, the winner of the Lufthansa 1st Best Collections, was selected in a lucky draw and sponsored to attend the Mercedes Benz Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014 Collections and Travel Seminar. This opportunity was created to extend the rapport of South African designers with the international fashion industry and expand their business mindset. The week included Trade Shows such as Premium and Capsule, behind the scenes look at Mercedes Benz Berlin Fashion Week, as well as meetings with key players in the international fashion industry. This platform provided Anmari with a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to experience the inner-workings of the European fashion industry. 13

17 THE BUSINESS OF FASHION From Left to Right: Anmari Honiball (S/S13 & A/W14) Albertus Swanepoel (S/S13 & A/W14) PILLARS OF SA FASHION WEEK Albertus Swanepoel Q & A South African Fashion Week provided the industry and all fashion-followers with the opportunity to get to know Albertus Swanepoel - the successful South African designer and milliner based in New York City. The following questions were answered in a recorded-interview and published on the SA Fashion Week website. 1. How do you market yourself? 2. Talk us through your production process 3. How do you become a leader in fashion, and not just a follower? 4. Is it important to show at SA Fashion Week? 5. How important is it or a designer to research and to know all about design? 6. How do you tap into world trends and predictions? 7. Tell us about your Target deal 8. What are the pros and cons of supplying the renowned Barneys in New York? 9. How important is it for designers to connect to their consumers? 10. What has been the biggest challenge that you have faced in your career to date? 11. Short background on Fashion To view complete Q & A visit: 14

18 Spring / Summer 2013 Collections Seasonal collections are showcased bi-annually, with the following purpose: - To provide designers with exposure in the fashion industry both locally and internationally - Create awareness through media coverage for local designers - Assisting designers to market their brands on a prestigious platform for their VIP guests and future end-consumers - Refresh buyer s minds of collection - To grow the fashion industry in the country - Increase employment in the country Lucilla Booyzen implements her industry-experience in international and local fashion production and the fashion industry at large to execute the highest-standard of runway shows in the country. The Spring/Sumer 2013 Collections were held at the Crowne Plaza Johannesburg The Rosebank Hotel from April Sponsors activated their presence strategically throughout the venue for the duration of SA Fashion Week. A Wi-Fi enabled media lounge was made available to the media throughout SA Fashion Week, and all media received SA Fashion Week Media Bags containing relevant content provided by the sponsors. Highlighting the value of SA Fashion Week s seasonal collections, 5800 guests attended over the 3 day period, with 1700 members of the media attending. Key Facts & Figures: - The Collections included 10 shows over a 3 day period - 5 installations over a 3 day period - 2 off-site shows - 36 designers showcasing their Collections - 74 buyers viewing collections / attending Buyers Lounge - Buyers Lounge Sessions on 14 April to interface numerous SA boutiques with designers Publicity generated for S/S 2013 [from 01 March-30 April]: R52.2 million over a 9 week period. 15

19 THE BUSINESS OF FASHION From Left to Right: Gert-Johan Coetzee (S/S13) Sober (S/S13) Fundudzi by Craig Jacobs (S/S13) Kottin & Twille (S/S13) Joel Janse van Vuuren (S/S13) COLLECTIONS 16

20 Autumn / Winter 2014 Collections The Autumn/Winter 2014 Collections were held at the Crowne Plaza The Rosebank Hotel from the 3rd 5th of October Jameson launched the Autumn/Winter Collections with an Official Opening Party on 02 October, welcoming SA Fashion Week s media and VIP guests. The value of SA Fashion Week s seasonal collections is emphasised through the 4928 of guests who attended over the 3 day period, and the 1323 members of the media that attended. Key Facts & Figures: - The Collections included 7 shows over a 3 day period - 6 installations over 3 days - 2 off-site shows - 28 South African designers seats - Suzaan Heyns collaboration with Disney Top 10 Media Reports Coverage Print: - SA Franchise Warehouse - Grazia Warehouse - Daily News - The Times - City Press, Voices - Sowetan - Beeld, Pols - Sunday Times, Fashion Weekly - YOU - Herald, La Femme Publicity generated for A/W 2014 [01 September 30 October]: R54, 8 million over a 9 week period. 17

21 THE BUSINESS OF FASHION From Left to Right: Gert-Johan Coetzee (A/W14) Colleen Eitzen (A/W14) Kottin & Twille (A/W14) Fundudzi by Craig Jacobs (A/W14 ) COLLECTIONS 18

22 EPHYMOL NAKED APE LOXION KULCA ROMAN HANDT PALSE HOMME NARAINSAMY BY MIKE & SONS SKORZCH KUJULA C. MTAMBO 19

23 COLLECTIONS THE BUSINESS OF FASHION COLLECTIONS Menswear The British menswear industry, which brings 10 billion to the UK s economy, is growing at such a rate that it is predicted to overtake Ladieswear sales by For the past 4 years the South African Fashion Week has focussed on supporting Menswear Designers in South Africa, for three important reasons: Firstly, we have strong new talent coming through the doors of SA Fashion Week and into the industry. There are great Menswear Designers in the country right now, and it has been very rewarding to be able to champion them. Secondly, Menswear has been the latent giant of the Creative Fashion Design Industry which is why we believe it is of the utmost importance for SA Fashion Week to provide additional attention and support to the Menswear designers. Lastly, there has been a significant generational shift in attitude towards menswear Menswear has seen substantial growth in the consumer market, due to designers building this confidence. The Made-to-Measure market also indicates huge growth, which will see a very exciting year ahead. The British Fashion Council has recognised the same need, and in September 2013 created a fund specifically for the menswear industry. Their objective is to help their emerging brands grow and move forward financially, recognising that there are now more exciting menswear designers in Britain than ever before. SA Fashion Week s Top Menswear Labels include the following designers: - Ephymol - House of Ole - Naked Ape - Loxion Kulca - Narrainsamy - Palse Homme - Roman Handt - Terrence Bray - Kujula C. Mtambo 20

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25 THE BUSINESS OF FASHION PROJECTS AREAS OF BUSINESS Fashion Wednesdays Fashion Wednesdays is a new initiative which focuses on a top-performing designer each month. Essentially it is a networking platform, and designers are selected based on generating sales or for achieving a particularly high profile. This is a dynamic platform that aims to pay tribute to the success achieved by designers and to stimulate further brand development. This is one of the many income streams that SA Fashion Week creates for designers to benefit and grow from, creating contact points between consumers, media and the designer. Events are held at the Crowne Plaza The Rosebank. The following designers have been highlighted to date: - Black Coffee - Gert-Johan Coetzee - Fundudzi by Craig Jacobs - Palse - Rubicon The South African Fashion Handbook The SA Fashion Handbook, published by Schreiber Media in conjunction with SA Fashion Week, is a glossy publication that includes all South African designers who run their fashion businesses on a professional level. The SA Fashion Handbook connects designers to their end-consumers, media and buyers. It highlights and promotes fashion and trends in all art forms, and is defined by looking forward as a trend-forecaster for upcoming seasons. Editor Grant Schreiber explains the partnership as a co-marketing strategy where both SA Fashion Week and Schreiber Media gain exposure through a joint partnership. We exclusively highlight SA Fashion Week s work, focussing on The Business of Fashion. We in turn gain exclusive exposure through SA Fashion Week, helping each other to build our brands. In return we receive a platform for exposing the handbook to a key audience of fashion decision-makers and fashion professionals. In business today, collaboration is key and we re a strong example of how we can build our respective brands and collaborate at the same time. This partnership is another platform for SA Fashion Week to communicate their constant core-focus of The Business of Fashion to the industry. In 2013 The Fashion Handbook retailed at R75.00, available at selected Exclusive Books stores. 22

26 Competitions SA Fashion Week facilitates several national competitions each year. This allows designers to introduce themselves to the media and key players in the Creative Fashion Design Industry, whilst the winners receive a powerful boost in their careers. SA Fashion Week continues to train, educate and mentor South African designers while providing them with the business tools to become successful, profitable small businesses that leads the industry. SA Fashion Week implements their mission to recognise and support the very best of South African design, and utilises the strength of these competition platforms to source, develop and nurture local talent creating lucrative designers for the South African fashion industry. Lufthansa 1st Best Collections 2013 The Lufthansa 1st Best Collections is an initiative designed to give young designers selected by the SA Fashion Week board, the opportunity to showcase their seasonal collections at SA Fashion Week. SA Fashion Week demands that only the best designers, whose careers are established yet relatively new, receive the Lufthansa 1st Best opportunity. This is a platform that recognises the talent of designers necessary to build sustainable businesses. The Lufthansa 1st Best Collections is hosted as a show at SA Fashion Week. Through a great partnership with Lufthansa German Airlines a lucky draw is held at the end of the show, for one of the ten designers to win a return ticket to Berlin to attend Mercedes Benz Berlin Fashion Week on a Travel Seminar. This is not a competition as such, as the Lufthansa 1st Best Collection is: - A platform for young designers to showcase their skills amongst South Africa s top designers - A valuable marketing platform to generate awareness for themselves as designers and brands within the industry. Applicants have to be working in the fashion design industry for a maximum of 5 years to qualify for the Lufthansa 1st Best Collections which provides an essential platform to develop young, talented designers in the industry, and provide them with the opportunity to connect to international fashion standards of design, craftsmanship and innovation. Anmari Honiball was the 2013 recipient of this remarkable opportunity, providing her with the platform to expand her knowledge and extend her affinity with the European fashion industry. 23

27 THE BUSINESS OF FASHION From Left to Right: Tiaan Nagel (S/S13) ERRE (A/W14) Cutterier by Laz Yani (A/W14 & S/S13) COMPETITIONS SAFW Renault New Talent Search The SAFW Renault New Talent Search is one of the most established fashion talent searches in South Africa. This is an annual competition that highlights SA Fashion Week s mission to identify the future of design in South Africa. It also provides the winning designer with a springboard into the country s dynamic fashion industry providing competitive business advantage and brand awareness. The Renault-SA Fashion Week New Talent Search targets young designers with existing labels explains convener Dion Chang. This is not about being a famous designer we want to know whether entrants understand the industry. SA Fashion Week believes that the New Talent Search should reflect the changes taking place in the surrounding fashion arena, which is reflected in the competitions open-theme. Winner of the Renault New Talent Search for 2013 was Cutterier by Laz Yani, who received a Renault-sponsored prize of R cash, along with the keys to a brand new Renault Mégane Coupé. Cutterier by Laz Yani has been ranked in the top 3 sellers of the Edgars X SAFW Designer Capsule Stores from November 2013, the first month he started supplying the stores, to date. This signifies the level of skill and proficiency developed by SA Fashion Week with the designers, particularly through the competitions developed, that are then actively applied in the business world to generate sustainable businesses within the fashion industry. The SAFW Renault New Talent Search is one of the most prestigious fashion talent searches in South Africa, so this acknowledgment means a lot to me & the future of my brand. Laz Yani, Designer All the designers who have previously participated in either the SAFW Renault New Talent Search or other SAFW related competitions have showed significant design and entrepreneurial talent says SAFW director, Lucilla Booyzen. Previous Renault New Talent Winners include: Jacques van der Watt (Black Coffee), Terrence Bray, Anna-Mari Pretorius (Kottin & Twille), Maya Prass, Sam Bulgin, Roman Handt, David Tlale, Ella Butler (Superella), Lisa Jaffe (Guillotine), Stephen Quatember, Tiaan Nagel, Katherine Mortner, Anisa Mpungwe (Loin Cloth & Ashes) and Zano Sitheto (Skorzch) 24

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29 THE BUSINESS OF FASHION COMPETITIONS SA Fashion Week Student Competition The SA Fashion Week Student Competition is a platform that excites students and their associating colleges across the country each year. SA Fashion Week maintains the importance of identifying the designers of the future, nurturing young designers and developing that talent. The competition is not open to 1st year students, so the level of entry is higher and is approached with more competency and capability. The 2013 theme was My Little Black Dress Became a Skirt, where students were required to create a garment that transformed from a dress to a skirt. Students from across South Africa submitted their entries being challenged to create a modern and highly constructed garment that transformed from a dress to a skirt. Only natural fibers were allowed to be used in creating the garment, and at least 20% craft was required. Each year SA Fashion Week implements innovative themes to push the students in their design process. Established institutions, colleges and universities participated in the SA Fashion Week Student Competition, including: Bloemfontein Fashion Academy Cape Town College of Fashion Design Damelin: Allenby, Menlyn Design Academy of Fashion Durban University of Technology Elizabeth Galloway Academy of Fashion Design Fedisa Inscape Design College Lindiwe Kuzwayo School of Fashion Lisof: JHB, JHB Eastrand, Pretoria Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University North West School of Design Oakfields College: Menlyn, JHB Eastrand SA Design School: JHB, Pretoria Spero Villioti Studio 05 University of Pretoria Vaal University of Technology Walter Sisulu Uiversity Kirsten Chamberland was the 2013 SAFW Student Competition winner, who received a R5000 cash prize, a VIP package to attend the A/W 2014 Collections, and was introduced to her favourite designer showing in the seasonal collections. The top 10 entries were displayed at the SA Fashion Week Pop-Up Shop exhibition and during the Autumn/Winter 2014 Collections in October 2013 amplifying the presence of the designers in the marketplace. 26

30 SHOP FROM THE SA FASHION WEEK RUNWAY SA FASHION WEEK S OFFICIAL ONLINE Runway Online RUNWAYONLINE

31 THE BUSINESS OF FASHION RETAIL & WHOLESALE Retail Platforms South Africa s retail and wholesale sales sector has grown over the past years, supported by an increase in both the supply to retail space and the number of shopping centres in the country. A stable economic environment allows consumers to spend more, thereby increasing the value of retail trade sales. At 26.5 percent, Gauteng contributes the largest share of gross value added by the retail industry. SA Fashion Week has created key retail channels that enable local designers to connect with the end-consumer and generate a stable income stream this is a vital step in the development of sustainable designer brands in South Africa s fashion industry, and continues to contribute to the South African economy. Runway Online Runway Online, an interactive online store, was launched in partnership with SA Fashion Week at the end of Retailing South African designer garments and accessory collections, Runway Online is the first of its kind in the country. This platform was created to establish a revenue stream for local design, and provide an opportunity to connect consumers with South African designer garments at the click of a button. Retail trade sales have been increasing in the country, with an average annual increase of 29% in online retail sales. Although Runway Online is currently in its infant phase, South African fashion-loving consumers are ready for the world of online shopping. South Africans spent R514- million on internet shopping in 2005, 20% more than in 2004, according to tech-watchers World Wide Worx. A unique feature of the store is its offering of sample pieces straight from the SA Fashion Week runway, directly available to the public at discounted prices. This affords collectors a rare opportunity to buy exceptional once-off local designer pieces. Designers available on Runway Online to date, include: Albertus Swanepoel, Anmari Honiball, Black Coffee, Colleen Eitzen, Cutterier by Laz Yani, Fundudzi by Craig Jacobs, Guillotine, Joel Janse Van Vuuren, Kottin & Twille, Lunar, Samantha Constable & Sies!Isabelle References: 1. Southafrica.info South Africa: Even more fast facts. [ONLINE] Available at: [Accessed 20 March 2014]. 2. Gauteng Province Provincial Treasury. Quarterly Bulletin 2012: The Retail Industry on the Rise in South Africa. [ONLINE] Available at: [Accessed 20 March 2014] 28

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33 THE BUSINESS OF FASHION RETAIL & WHOLESALE Edgars X SAFW Designer Capsule Stores The SA Fashion Week Designer Capsule Collection represents a turning point in SA Fashion Week s history as the first time local design was commercially available to the public, and a commercial line for associated designers has been launched. The Edgars X SAFW Designer Capsule Collections was launched by Edcon CEO Jürgen Schreiber and SA Fashion Week Director Lucilla Booyzen. In 2011, Edgars X SAFW Designer Capsule Stores were made available to the public in both Melrose Arch and Sandton City stores. This retail channel creates the opportunity to encourage the retailer s commitment to support local designers and the South African fashion industry at large, in a measurable way. Under the guidance and mentorship of SA Fashion Week, each of the designers available at the Edgars X SAFW Designer Capsule Stores are responsible for selecting the garments they sell, as well as manage their assigned areas in store enhancing designer brands and building businesses. Since its inception, 30 designers have been a part of the Edgars X SAFW Designer Capsule Stores over 29 months. The Edgars X SAFW Designer Capsule Store is a valuable platform for all designers involved, as they become hands-on in providing and managing their garments in one of the largest retailers in the country, and the exposure for them is incomparable. Edgars will be rolling out 2 new Edgars X SAFW Designer Capsule Stores in Gauteng. According to Edgars Executive Manager of Trends and Design, Sandra Rogers, Lucilla Booyzen is a real pioneer. She has a bold and clear vision of the future. When she launched SA Fashion Week in 1997 there were a few big names that specialized in extraordinary and striking evening wear and wedding dresses. Today the fashion industry is an amazing place, offering incredible variety and choice. She was the catalyst for change, and she ll be the linchpin in going forward. Sandra Rogers 2013 in-store events included: - Black Coffee & Rubicon Meet & Greet 9 Feb Sies!isabelle & Two Meet & Greet 4 May Gert-Johan Coetzee Meet & Greet 23 Feb Colleen Eitzen & Rubicon Collection Preview 28 Feb Colleen Eitzen Meet & Greet 1 June Xmas shopping 10 Dec

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35 THE BUSINESS OF FASHION RETAIL & WHOLESALE Designer Pop-Up Shop The SA Fashion Week pioneered the local designer Pop-Up Shop idea in South Africa when it launched its SA Fashion Week Pop-Up Shop to connect designers with the buying public three years ago. SA Fashion Week implements this once a year, creating yet another direct touch point with end-consumers. The benefit of a Pop-Up Shop has refreshed the retail experience in a shopping environment. Local designers and entrepreneurs benefit from the product exposure and brand awareness. Designers can now afford to tap into a market previously unattainable to them, enabling them to extend their target audience. The SA Fashion Week Pop-Up Shop has become a hugely successful annual institution. The 2013 SA Fashion Week Pop-Up Shop was held in Brooklyn Mall, Pretoria. The Pop-Up Shop took place during the last weekend of August, and included 49 exhibitors each day. Situated in the fashion hub of Pretoria with approximately visitors per month, Brooklyn Mall has proved to be an exceptionally good retail environment. Both the Centre and SA Fashion Week receive an added boost from the strategic media campaign that builds up to the launch of the SA Fashion Week Pop-Up Shop. The value of the SA Fashion Week Pop-Up Shop lies in the opportunities it creates: - Connects designers directly to end consumers - Increases the database of private clients - Allows interaction with media and buyers - Creates point of sales - Serves their own retailer and keeps a margin from wholesale to retail price points in own business Designers that represented the 2013 SA Fashion Week Pop-Up Shop included: Amanda Laird Cherry, Anmari Honiball, Babatunde, Black Coffee, Blue Collar White Collar, Clive Rundle, Colleen Eitzen Designs, Cutterier by Laz Yani, Erre, Faeeza Khan, Fundudzi by Craig Jacobs, Galago, Gergie.B, G Thomas Designs, Gert-Johan Coetzee, Hello Pretty, House of Gentlemen Aristocrats, Irene Makhavu, Isabel de Villiers, Jane Sews, Jeankelly, Just, Kottin & Twille, Kristall Mantwa, Label Collections, Lady Bird, Lisof, Lunar, Marakesh Accessories, Marina Louw Studios, Mill k, Miss Peacock, Missshape, M magoli Clothing, Muntsho by Leon von Solms, Rubicon, Rawhanger, Shirt & Co, Sies!Isabelle, Suzaan Heyns, Tasleem, Terrence Bray, Thandiswa, Savior Brand Co. Scrabbyl, Soil Child and Skorzch 2013 Pop-Up Shop total sales: R432, in 19 hours. 32

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37 THE BUSINESS OF FASHION RETAIL & WHOLESALE Buyers Lounge The SA Fashion Week Buyers Lounge is a business-to-business platform that was launched at the Spring/Summer 2010 Collections. Typically staged the day after the seasonal Collections have concluded, the Buyers Lounge has been implemented by SA Fashion Week to provide a forum for designers to engage constructively with the retail sector with the aim of expanding their stockist footprint as well as conduct valuable market research. Spring/Summer 2013 Buyers Lounge April visitors attended [media and buyers] 39 designers exhibited, including: Albertus Swanepoel, Amanda May, Anmari Honiball, Beautiful Maverick, Bianca Warren, Black Coal, Black Coffee, Blaklisted, Colleen Eitzen, Cutterier by Laz Yani, Ephymol, Fundudzi by Craig Jacobs, Julian, Just*, Inga Madyiba, Jacqueline Munsami, Jane Sews, Kottin & Twille, Kujula Mtambo, Loxion Kulca, Lunar, Mej. Lues by Hanrie Lues, Missshape, Nicole T. Hoyer, Nkosi Mhlungu, Red Oker, Rubicon, Samantha Constable, Sandile Mlambo, Sevenov Design House, Shirt & Co. Sies!Isabelle, Skorzch, Sober, Somerset Jane, Tiaan Nagel, Terrene Bray, Two and Vijay Shah. Autumn/Winter 2014 Buyers Lounge 6 7 October visitors attended [media and buyers] 42 designers exhibited, including: Albertus Swanepoel, Anmari Honiball, Avisha Nanumar, Black Coffee, Casey Jeanne, Claire MacKenzie, Clive Rundle, Colleen Eitzen, Cutterier by Laz Yani, DuSud Errol Arendz, Erre, Fundudzi by Craig Jacobs, GThomas, Jacqueline Munsami, Kottin & Twille, Lara Klawikowski, Larisa Terblanche, LO Studio, Ludwig Bequindenhout, Mej Lues, Miles Luthuli, Mthunzi Mtembu, Rubicon, Saronji Moodley, Scarlet, Sfiso Sabelo, SIES! Isabelle, Sober, Take Care Clothing, Thabo Makhetha and Thembeka Vilakazi. 34

38 The Fashion Agent The Fashion Agent has built up a reputation on representing the must-have South African fashion brands and designers as the only multi-label trading agent / wholesale showroom in South Africa. The Fashion Agent wholesale showroom has been operating since May 2011, and became registered in December 2011 as a Closed Corporation with Lucilla Booyzen, Director of SA Fashion Week, and Annette Pringle-Kölsch both performing management responsibilities. The main objectives of The Fashion Agent are: To facilitate a permanent, professional wholesale showroom for SA designer brands that connects their brands with wholesale buyers of department stores and individual boutiques. Generate sales, promote and manage the wholesale business on behalf of the designers. Expand the production facility of South African designers without compromising product quality, thus strengthening the SA fashion industry. Develop the local, national fabric industry and fabric agency network by promoting SA designers. Grow CMT production facilities by creating order volumes which are resulting in job creation in the entire value chain and lead into exporting into Africa and establish strong sales in new (overseas) markets. The Fashion Agent possesses a database of 512 professional wholesale buyers contacts. Additionally, The Fashion Agent manages special projects, such as the SA Fashion Week Buyers Lounge and the Edgars X SAFW Designer Capsule Stores on behalf of SA Fashion Week. The wholesale agency works with 30 designer labels in the Edgars X SAFW Designer Capsule and sells the 14 listed labels to boutiques, retailers in Southern Africa and overseas: Albertus Swanepoel, Black Coffee, Clive Rundle, Colleen Eitzen, Cult Collective, Cutterier by Laz Yani, ERRE, Fundudzi by Craig Jacobs, Julian, Kottin & Twille, Love Jozi, Lunar, Rubicon and Scarlet. The Fashion Agent s starting point and biggest continuing success story has been managing the Edgars X SAFW designer capsule stores on behalf of SA Fashion Week. A Retail turnover of over R6,1 Mil and 8,508 units sold have been recorded over a period of 29 months (Sep 2011 to Jan 2014). 30 South African designer labels have been selling their collections in the two SAFW designer capsule stores in Edgars Melrose Arch & Edgars Sandton. The average Retail price per unit sold amounts to R721 gross Retail turnover per sqm is R1,

39 THE BUSINESS OF FASHION From Left to Right: Larisa Moda (A/W14) Ludwig Bausch (A/W14) Haroun Hansrot (S/S13) GROWTH & DEVELOPMENT 36

40 Timeline of designers showcasing at SA Fashion Week: 37

41 THE BUSINESS OF FASHION From Left to Right: TWO (S/S13), Terrence Bray (S/S13) GROWTH & DEVELOPMENT 38