WWD. Victoria Beckons. Greek Deal Sends Luxe Shares Higher EURO TRENDS SAFARI, BLUE, PRINTS, LONGER JACKETS AND MORE. PAGE MW3 EXCLUSIVE

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1 EURO TRENDS SAFARI, BLUE, PRINTS, LONGER JACKETS AND MORE. PAGE MW3 PLUS: Boys Night Out: Hanging with Pete Hamill. PAGE MW4 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 30, 2011 WOMEN S WEAR DAILY $3.00 EXCLUSIVE Victoria Beckons No, don t call it a secondary line. But, yes, with the spring 2012 launch of Victoria by Victoria Beckham, her new dress line, Victoria Beckham expects to capture a whole new fan base while offering her current devotees more options. Younger, less structured and easier than its more overtly glam elder sister, the lineup channels what Beckham calls her inner girly girl. She designed looks such as this spring crepe shift for maximum range, noting that they work as well with heels as with the flats that she appreciates more and more these days. For more on WWD s preview and an interview with Beckham, see pages 4 and 5. PHOTO BY BEN WRIGHT A SIGN OF RELIEF Greek Deal Sends Luxe Shares Higher By LUISA ZARGANI SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SPA COULDN T HAVE TIMED its first day of trading on the Milan Stock Exchange much better. Shares of the Florence-based fashion house closed with a flourish Wednesday, gaining 10.6 percent to 9.95 euros, or $14.23 at current exchange, reflecting both confidence in the luxury sector and the strength of equities throughout Europe as the Greek parliament approved a sweeping austerity program including spending cuts and tax increases. The vote in Athens significantly improved the likelihood of a rescue package from the European Union and allayed fears that the country could default, a source of discomfort throughout global equity markets all week. Ferragamo s strong showing helped to bolster other publicly held European luxury brands. In London, Burberry Group plc gained 5.2 percent to close at pounds, or $23.20 at current exchange. In Milan, Tod s SpA shares rose 2.4 percent to euros, or $129.30, and Luxottica Group SpA shares rose 3.2 percent to euros, or $ In Paris, PPR SA kicked up 3.1 percent to euros, or $ Also gaining, although less vigorously, were LMVH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA, up 1.6 percent to euros, or $176.66, and Hermès International, up 1.5 percent to 200 euros, or $ Bulgari SpA inched up 0.1 percent to euros, or $ European markets have been tied closely to the upand-down developments in Athens and appeared to exhale over news of the Greek austerity package. London s FTSE 100 rose points, or 1.5 percent, to 5,855.95, while in Paris the CAC 40 climbed points, or 1.9 percent, to 3, and in Frankfurt the DAX jumped , or 1.7 percent, to 7,294. Madrid s IBEX 35 rose points, or 2.1 percent, to 10,143.60, and Milan s index, FTSE Mib, closed up points, or 2 percent, at 19, In Asia, the Nikkei 225 in Tokyo closed up points, or 1.5 percent, to 9,797.26, while the Hang Seng Index in Hong Kong declined 0.60 points, or essentially SEE PAGE 8 IN WWD TODAY Isaac Meets The Brides PAGE 8 FASHION: Close to 100 brides and brides-to-be mingled with Isaac Mizrahi at the launch of his dress and accessories line for online retailer The Aisle New York. Tourneau s New Concept PAGE 7 ACCESSORIES: The watch retailer unveils a new store design that emphasizes personalized service and fewer counters. Coach Goes Mobile PAGE 2 NEWS: The leather goods firm today adds mobile commerce to its online platform.

2 An Intimate Conversation Consumers Embrace Natural Fibers That Perform W hen the average person thinks of underwear, she might not be imagining technical performance but that is exactly where the market is heading in men s and women s underwear and intimates. Doneger Group s Patty Leto, senior vice-president and general merchandise manager, says the market should focus on comfortable products that keep wearers cool and dry throughout the day whether their schedule includes going to the office, the playground with the kids, or the gym. Brands that aren t marketing this technology should be looking to do so, Leto advises. It s a comfort thing and so much opportunity is there. Innovation is what is driving people to buy right now. In underwear, people get it because they need it, but wouldn t it be great if they went and bought new product because it s new and innovative? The data bear out Leto s assertion: The largest percentage of shoppers (34%) say the main reason they purchased new underwear in the past 12 months was because they just needed new pairs, while another 30% bought because their old pairs were worn out, according to the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor Survey. Just 18% bought new underwear in the last year because they wanted something new and different. However, innovative product is making a major impact on Jockey s business. The company introduced its new Jockey staycool collection a few months ago and consumers have quickly embraced what they did not even know they were missing. Leto says the number one concern for men now is comfort and performance, which is why staycool accounts for almost a quarter of Jockey s business. Jockey also shipped a women s staycool tank, tee and underwear and the underwear is the number one piece. So the cool technology is important to women shoppers as well. Jockey staycool is made of 100% cotton that incorporates Outlast technology, an application developed for astronauts that actually creates a cool zone next to the skin. Consumers are snapping it up because a full 83% of consumers prefer their underwear to be made of cotton and cotton blends, according to Monitor data. Cotton is still the mainstay of the industry, says Freshpair Inc. s Matthew Butlein, president. From briefs to the sporty bra, it s the most common fiber. In men s, it accounts for 70% of sales, from 100% stretch cotton to cotton blends. Butlein says cotton accounts for 40% of women s sales, including bras where nylon is a dominant material. However, he says demand for natural fibers runs across the board, with consumers looking for performance features found in items like the men s cotton compression Spanx, the Calvin Klein cotton and modal briefs, or for women s summer styles, the Diesel cotton and mesh bandeau bra. Monitor respondents say the top performance features they seek when buying underwear are easy care (53%), stretch (51%), odor resistance (22%), moisture wicking (21%) and antimicrobial (15%). But Jockey s Sally Tomkins, senior vice-president of design, research and product development, says, It s important to note that performance can have various meanings, such as athletic performance or a garment that provides other benefits to the wearer, like being antimicrobial or temperature regulating. Tomkins says Jockey is a big believer in natural fibers, cotton being foremost among them. Jockey will continue to add natural fibers to our products because we know they are extremely comfortable, breathable and in demand among male and female consumers across all ages, she says. Natural fibers are also versatile, as evidenced by cotton blends and treated cotton products. We see cotton/spandex as an up-and-coming trend in the men s market. Its men s Jockey GO collection is also popular, offering athletic performance features along with fashion colors. Most consumers (30%) buy new underwear every 4-to-6 months, according to the Monitor. Another 24% buy every 2-to-3 months, while 23% do so once a year or less. Just 6% buy once a month or more. Most women (34%) buy bras once a year or less, the Monitor survey reveals. Another 30% purchase bras every 4-to-6 months, 17% buy every 7-to-11 months and 15% buy every 2-to-3 months. Just 2% go bra shopping once a month or more. Leto says there is a lot of opportunity in the undergarment category, appealing to consumers seeking both natural products and technical features. In underwear, people get it because they need it, but wouldn t it be great if they went and bought new product because it s new and innovative? Patty Leto, Doneger Group Main Reason You Purchased New Underwear In The Past 12 Months Total Men Women Just Needed New Pairs 34% 35% 33% Old Pairs Worn Out 30% 36% 26% Wanted New & Different 18% 13% 21% Underwear Was On Sale 8% 8% 8% Old Ones No Longer Fit 7% 7% 8% Special Occasion 2% 1% 3% Source: CottonLifestyleMonitor.com Doneger did a study on the new Generation V, or Generation Viral consumers those used to technology and attaining everything instantaneously. This is a savvy consumer base that reacts to comfort, newness and tech-driven product, Leto says. They re the next generation that will drive the economy. There is opportunity in women s as well, Leto adds. When looking at intimates, there are many different kinds of fabric but number one at Jockey is staycool. So, clearly, temperature regulation is important to women. But the word performance isn t as important to her. Instead, she says, marketers should appeal to a woman s desire for feminine pieces that keep her cool and dry all day, no matter where she s going. It doesn t have to be sexy, per se. But those brands that can put tech features in undergarments and bras when it s 90 degrees out, they ll do well. This article is one in a series that appears in these pages on Thursdays. The data contained is based on findings from the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor survey, a consumer attitudinal study, as well as upon other of the company s industrial indicators including its Retail Monitor and Supply Chain Insights analyses. A digital version of this column and other relevant information can be found at CottonLifestyleMonitor.com. NEW YORK Coach, which boasts nearly 277,000 fans on Twitter and 2.1 million on Facebook enters a new digital realm today: mobile commerce. Developed through Usablenet s technology platform, the feature will give customers the ability to purchase directly from their mobile devices and, if they choose, the option to pick up their merchandise at a local Coach retailer. It s nice to provide instant gratification and link our online and offline businesses, said David Duplantis, Coach s senior vice president of global Web and digital media. It s all about demand. Our customers are mobile by nature. Building a site that allows them to easily browse and purchase our products on their PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER SECTORS IN THIS ISSUE RETAIL 2,6,8,MW1,MW2 FASHION 4,5 MEN S FASHION MW3 Lauren Remington Platt in Salvatore Ferragamo. DAILY QUOTE TODAY ON WWD.COM WWD.COM Coach Goes Mobile Coach s mobile site. mobile devices is a seamless evolution and way for us to provide excellent customer service. According to Duplantis, a double-digit percentage of users visiting coach.com come via smartphones, and he added that the brand has already seen an increase in m-commerce sales since the project s soft launch on May 17. He expects to see significant growth in the category in the coming weeks and months. Mobile will continue to be an important channel utilized by consumers for shopping on the go, said Nick Taylor, chief executive officer of Usablenet. In the surge of smartphone use and mobile commerce, it is imperative for fashion retailers to stay ahead of the curve. RACHEL STRUGATZ FINANCIAL 1,8 ACCESSORIES 7 MEDIA 7 I thought the [tennis] clothes we wore back in the day were great. I always liked the short shorts, but nobody seems to agree with me. JOHN MCENROE, ON FASHION. MEN S WEEK, PAGE MW2 EYESCOOP: See more pictures from the Ferragamo resort after party, the Summer Party on the High Line and Celebrity Fashion: Cut it Out, at WWD.com/eyescoop. MEN S WEEK: See Boys Night Out with Pete Hamill at WWD.com/menswear-news. FASHION: See the latest resort collections including Balmain and Carven at WWD.com/fashion-news. BUSINESS: More financial news and daily stock movements at WWD.com/business-news. GLOBAL BREAKING NEWS TO REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS USING THE INDIVIDUAL S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT 2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 201, NO THURSDAY, JUNE 30, WWD (ISSN ) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, November and December, two additional issues in February, March, April and August and three additional issues in September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. 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3 You talking to me? PHOTO BY PAVEL ANTONOV JOHN VARVATOS // INDUSTRY LEADER AND LOYAL READER REACH EVERYBODY WHO S ANYBODY IN FASHION

4 4 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 30, 2011 Beckham s New Baby By Bridget Foley As Anyone with a passing interest in the tabloid side of celebrity knows, Victoria Beckham is about to have a baby. though prior to gender confirmation she was loath to admit it, this mother of three gorgeous boys was, understandably, rooting for a girl this time. now, the baby s sex long confirmed, Beckham floats the notion that her daughter has already influenced her work, hormonally speaking. the designer muses about a possible impact of the pregnancy on Victoria by Victoria Beckham, her new don t-call-it-a-secondary-dress-collection due for fashion delivery for spring the two projects have been in the works for about the same time, give or take. Beckham recalls that early on when she informed her staff of her baby news after first being told she was having a boy, one of my team said, it would be funny if you found out you were having a girl. Because this is the most girly collection i ve ever created. the girliest, youngest and, set to retail primarily in the $550 and $900 range, most accessible. Beckham characterizes the new dress line as representing her other side, the alter ego to her more glam self as manifested in the Victoria Beckham line, now in its sixth season. her de facto chief executive officer, the charmingly untitled Zach duane, refers to the launch in more concrete terms. we had to do something, he says, or we d be a niche brand forever. inspired by the cartoon character emily the strange, an edgy adolescent often followed by four cats who dresses on that line where cute meets chic (and who has her very own brand), this collection centers on a loosened silhouette. these are the kind of dresses i ve been searching for, notes Beckham, who admits to being her own archetypal customer. if she won t wear Where I am currently, I like a more modern attitude. Victoria Beckham it, it doesn t make the line. the perfect little summer dress, something that was fun, something that was girly, something that was easy to wear, something that would take you from day through the night. the girlishness and whimsy come through in the clean, vaguely sixties shapes; vibrant colors and design details, such as scalloped edges and pleating; they should show up as well in a series of not-ready-to-shoot conversational prints. these include clouds, moons and, in the spirit of emily, two of the kitty variety, one Victoria Cat and the other, Cutey Cat. where i am currently, i like a more modern attitude, Beckham explains. (in her main line, as well, she has in recent seasons introduced alternatives to her signature hyper-curvy shapes.) Also, it means that i m opening these designs to women and girls of all different shapes and sizes, people who maybe want something less tight and clingy and structured. it also makes it more comfortable for during the day. you can wear them with a pair of flats or a pair of heels and they look great. Produced in Portugal, the line will feature some handfinishing as well as indian embroideries. though a few pieces may retail for as much as $1,300, Beckham stresses the importance of delivering value at every price point. i take it into account when i m designing the other line as well. simply having a pocket there are repercussions. even with a handbag that costs thousands and thousands and thousands of pounds, i m not going crazy. i m still aware of how much the hardware costs exactly, exactly what the skin costs, how much the lining costs. At no point do i ever say it s one of those one-off showpieces. the launch of Victoria is obviously a major step in expanding her brand s reach. when it comes to existing retailers, Beckham would like to see the new line merchandised in concert with her original collection in existing stores; duane, meanwhile, acknowledges that that plan might not fly. they work really well together and we d love to say, Put them together, he offers. But no, we re not going to insist on it. Beckham does look forward to making quite a fuss when this launches at retail, implying that she may do a series of major appearances. she also may plan an event in conjunction with london Fashion week. First-season sales are expected to generate less than 10 percent of overall turnover with, duane says, the potential to become more commercial than the main line because of the way we ve chosen particular structures to make the dresses and we re working with slightly different factories. with refreshing candor that runs counter to the typical we re-private-so-no-numbers approach, duane goes public with figures. last year he projected a $7 million turnover for 2010, underestimating by $1 million. For this year, giving you a conservative estimate, i d say we will exceed $12 million in sales, he says. But it could be far more than that. with Victoria, we seem to be catching up with demand the whole time. so i put conservative numbers into our business plan without a doubt that, season-to-season, we smash those about by about 30 or 40 percent. the Victoria collection is the latest expansion of the growing joint venture business launched in 2005 by Beckham, her husband, david, and simon Fuller, the now-legendary talent manager and creator of the Pop idol and American idol franchises; he s the man who put the spice in Beckham s life back when. simon is the best business partner you could ever have, she says. he gives me incredibly loose reins to do what i want to do. he likes to rewrite the rules, as do i, as opposed to follow the rules. the way the still-young business has developed offers ample evidence of their fluid approach. Under the original concept, the dvb label would serve as an umbrella for products launched by both Victoria and david. heralded in advance of the couple s arrival in the U.s., in a provocative steven Klein photo essay in w Magazine in February 2007, the brand launched with a Coty fragrance and jeans produced by rock & republic. But that model was soon reevaluated and ultimately tossed. dvb, duane explains, was conceived as an umbrella that would cover both Beckhams as a kind of joint brand, a kind of power couple. yet once they started developing Victoria s side of the business, it became clear that her name and vision carried power on their own. Very quickly we realized that she had a voice, Spring looks from Victoria by Victoria Beckham.

5 there was demand, and more importantly, that she had her own brand that was very distinct from her life as David s wife or them as a couple. We realized that the dvb brand name didn t really work because they ve taken very different paths, and what she stands for in the market is very different from what he stands for. We decided with the launch of the dress line that it would just be called Victoria Beckham and over a period of a few seasons, rebranded everything. DVb, as far as she s concerned, does not exist anymore. Beckham welcomed the change and finds the responsibility gratifying. I found myself in the position where I could finish with dvb and bring it all in house, where I wasn t going to have to compromise with anybody, she says, explaining an essentially simple business structure. Everything David s doing and everything that I m doing, we re doing together. It s myself, it s David and it s Simon. Whether it s the Victoria Beckham line or it s David s new underwear line, it s the three of us. I m very lucky to not have anybody else to answer to. With the exception of fragrance, done with Coty, all Victoria Beckham products are produced in-house. That s now two dress collections, denim, bags and even eyewear, produced in the factory of the British firm Cutler & Gross. Though a difficult category to take on independently, both in terms of production and building retail relationships, this was done, Duane notes, to ensure a unique point of difference. We didn t want to do the tradition of working with one of the four major eyewear license companies who put out some lovely product, but there aren t huge points of difference. WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 30, WWD.COM Fashion scoops HARRY S NEW GIRL: Move over, Miss Middleton. It looks as if Pippa Middleton may have been pipped to the post of girlfriend of the world s most-loved royal bachelor. According to British press reports, Prince Harry has begun dating Florence Brudenell- Bruce, a posh and leggy model, actress and budding art collector. Brudenell-Bruce, 25, whose former boyfriend was Formula One champion Jenson Button, has modeled for Elizabeth Hurley, department store John Lewis and lingerie chain Knickerbox. She has also appeared in the Bollywood film Love Aaj Kal, and has most recently been filming a horror film set in Switzerland. The press reports said Harry and his flame of seven years, Chelsea Davy, have split for good, and he s moving on. Not that his father, Prince Charles, needs any more mouths to feed. According to Charles annual accounts, he had to hire three new full-time members of staff to manage his new daughter-in-law Kate Middleton s schedule, to the tune of about 112,000 pounds, or $180,000. And that s not even counting the cost of the wedding or the couple s new apartment in Kensington Palace. Those figures will be released in next year s accounts. The Victoria collection is the latest expansion of the joint venture launched in 2005 by Beckham, her husband, David, and Simon Fuller. BECKHAM PortrAit By GiovAnni GiAnnoni; looks By BEn WriGHt Victoria is completely notorious [for loving sunglasses] and it s an opportunity to showcase a slightly more independent approach to product design. He cites as an example the embedding of dress fabrics from the fall collection in acetate frames. As for David Beckham products, they are being similarly rebranded, although licensees such as Adidas remain. According to Duane, the separation just made sense. It s recognizing the reality that, yes, they re known as a couple, he says. But they have very, very individual personalities that get reflected in the business they do, so they are now going to be seen as two separate brands. Which is not to say that Mr. and Mrs. will never again join forces in the interests of marketing, when, Duane notes, the power of both of them is something we want to take advantage of. They are a couple. And the impact of the two of them walking into a room or an event is phenomenal. As for the growth of the distaff business, the Victoria dress line is merely the next step. Other product categories, as well as retail, both e-commerce and brick-andmortar, are on the horizon with no firm timetable, though Duane says the latter should get under way within the next 12 to 24 months, with New York a likely setting. As for Beckham, she will not be hurried before her own quite exacting comfort level, and will proceed only when she has the time and knowledge to do so with utter confidence. We are considering new [projects], she says. But I also have a husband and three children and another one on the way, and I would always make them my priority. I never want to start something until I have the time set aside to do it impeccably. Does she ever wonder why she s taken it all on? Oh my goodness, yes! she says. As any working mum out there knows, it really is like juggling glass balls when you ve got the kids and a husband to look after, and you re passionate about your career. It s a lot. But I wouldn t have it any other way. I m blessed. As for that other blessing on the way, Beckham says her daughter already has an impressive wardrobe, but not in an obnoxious way at all. I love the French clothes for little girls. I like little girls to look like little girls. Similarly, she has adhered to sartorial discretion during her pregnancy. Asked about a months-old report that she had planned to do a nude shoot for Vogue à la Demi Moore in Vanity Fair, she gave an immediate and firm no way. Nope. Sadly not, before elaborating. I m not really one of these people that likes to go out and pose and flaunt being pregnant. Not like there s anything wrong in that. I m so proud to be pregnant and I feel so blessed and so happy, I really do. But I m just not that kind of person. So, no, I won t be taking my clothes off. I don t think anyone needs to see that, other than my husband. Absolutely not. President Obama with the Colorado Rapids. SOCCER STRIPES: After winning the Major League Soccer championship last year, the Colorado Rapids finally met with President Obama on Monday at the White House and were outfitted in custom-fitted Hart Schaffner Marx suits for the occasion. The gray striped suits were fashioned from worsted wool and complemented with ties in the team colors. I just want to point out that I got the memo and dressed appropriately in the gray suit, quipped Obama to the team. And some of you know, I am a soccer dad myself. I have watched my share of games over the years. And I m used to seeing everybody gather around the ball, and then it kind of pops out somewhere. And so I want to congratulate all the players behind me for coming so far since those days, because I m sure your parents were thinking the same thing that these guys can t play. The team, in turn, presented Obama with his own Colorado Rapids jersey. TOPSHOP TALK: Gwyneth Paltrow was spotted having dinner with Sir Philip Green this week at the London restaurant La Petite Maison, but she s not going to fill Kate Moss boots at Topshop. An Arcadia spokesman declined to comment, but industry sources said the dinner was private, and no deal was in the works. Paltrow is the latest female celebrity to come under speculation after dining with Green. In December, Rihanna ignited rumors about a deal after she had dinner with Green and his pal Simon Cowell at Sandy Lane in Barbados. And earlier this year, Courtney Love claimed that Green was interested in working with her, which he denied. A SHHH MOMENT FOR JA APPAREL: The sale of JA Apparel Corp. to Iconix Brand Group Inc. is still proceeding, although new rumblings have hit the marketplace that HMX Group is waiting in the wings after supposedly expressing interest in acquiring all of JA Apparel. HMX Group since mid-june was also interested in becoming the tailored clothing licensee. According to sources, Iconix is still the odds-on favorite to acquire the firm, for around $85 million, from J.W. Childs Associates, the private equity firm that owns JA Apparel. One reason for the paucity of information, those sources said, is that the transaction has entered the so-called quiet period. In financial parlance, that s the time period that restricts who can speak with whom before an acquisition is announced, suggesting that the sale process is moving closer to a conclusion.

6 6 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 30, 2011 Tiffany CEO Sees $22.2M in Pay Michael J. KowalsKi, Tiffany & co. s chairman and chief executive officer, has been taking advantage of the luxe jeweler s stock rebound and pulled in $22.2 million this year, before taxes, by exercising options and then selling the shares. The 640,000-share stake was sold off in seven pairs of transactions since Feb. 1. on Monday, for instance, the ceo exercised his option to buy 115,000 shares for $31.49 each and then sold the same number of shares for $75.88 apiece, according to a filing with the securities and exchange commission. Kowalski, 59, directly owns 244,045 shares of Tiffany and indirectly owns another 100,000 shares held in a trust. he also has 337,750 additional vested stock options. company rules oblige the ceo to hold stock valued at five times his base salary, which last year tallied $958,957 making for a $4.8 million threshold that Kowalski easily tops. when you look at where the stock was two or three years ago and how far it s increased, it shouldn t be too surprising that some people would decide to take advantage of that, said Mark aaron, vice president of investor relations. shares of Tiffany fell 0.2 percent to $77.74 wednesday, but are up more than 200 percent over the past two years, when the retail sector gained about 62 percent. EVAN CLARK beauty beat FTC Prohibits Nivea s Claims By KRisTi ellis washington The Federal Trade commission announced it has reached a settlement with Beiersdorf inc., based in wilton, conn., the maker of nivea silhouette skin cream, prohibiting the company from claiming that regular use of the product will significantly reduce a consumer s body size or lead to weight or fat loss and requiring it to pay $900,000. The real skinny on weight loss is that no cream is going to help you fit into your jeans, said FTc chairman Jon leibowitz. The tried and true formula for weight loss is diet and exercise. The FTc administrative complaint charges Beiersdorf with falsely claiming that the cream will help consumer lose weight. it also charged that the nivea skin cream is marketed in nationwide television ads and through sponsored search results on Google. in that marketing, the company touted the cream s Bio-slim complex, which includes anise and white tea in the ingredients. The commission pointed to a television ad where a woman getting dressed after using the skin cream on her stomach and thighs tries on a pair of old jeans and discovers they now fit. The company also allegedly purchased sponsored search results on Google so that when consumers searched stomach fat or thin waist, the nivea silhouette ads came up. Under the proposed settlement, Beiersdorf is barred from making any claims that the product applied to skin can reduce weight or body size or cut down fat. it also prohibits the company from claiming that any drug, dietary supplement or cosmetic product can cause weight or fat loss unless the claim is backed by two random, double-blind placebo-controlled clinical studies. it also requires that any claims of health benefits for drugs, dietary supplements or cosmetics be backed by scientific evidence. Delaney Exits LF USA Post By lisa lockwood promoted by the Ministry of Economic Development and organized by the Italian Trade Commission From June 29 to July 7, between 5 and 8 p.m. on Wednesday and Thursday of each week, shoppers will experience all that the finest Italian retailers in Manhattan have to offer June 29 and 30 on Madison Avenue; July 6 and 7 in SoHo. More than 50 leading Italian fashion, accessories and home décor retailers along with Italian restaurants will host a variety of in-store events, offering special deals, promotions, activities, alongside a VIP Hospitality Tent for New York shoppers. For more information, please visit Michael delaney, group president and executive director of the apparel group at lf Usa, a subsidiary of li & Fung ltd., is retiring. delaney helped build lf Usa s apparel and home group into a $1 billion business. Rick darling, president of lf Usa, confirmed delaney s retirement after seven years with the firm and said a successor hasn t been named yet. he said he expects there will be some changes as a result of his leaving. darling explained this was part of the succession planning process and we were working on it for some time, and the timing was right. delaney, who declined comment, will continue with lf Usa in a consulting capacity. delaney was named group president of lf Usa in 2008, and became a member of lf Usa s executive board and executive director in he joined the firm in 2004 when he sold Ralsey Group ltd., a knitwear company he and his wife Jamie founded, to li & Fung. Ralsey, which at the time was generating less than $100 million in sales, manufactured and marketed private label and branded knitwear and sportswear. The acquisition of Ralsey, whose lines included Ralsey, RGl new york, Rocket Girl, Rocket 898 and R898, was expected to strengthen li & Fung s design and merchandising capabilities and serve as a springboard into higher-margin businesses. lf Usa s expanding list of apparel labels includes ellen Tracy, Jennifer lopez, Marc anthony, Rachel Zoe and house of deréon. lf Usa also produces sean John s men s sportswear exclusively for Macy s. lf Usa s recent acquisitions include oxford apparel Group, cipriani accessories and its affiliate the Max leather Group, and Jimlar corp., which owns the Frye trademark and produces shoes for coach and calvin Klein. last week, it was reported that lf Usa and skechers Usa inc. signed a licensing deal to produce men s and women s apparel and accessories under the shapeups, Tone-ups and sketchers Resistance brands. lf Usa s home businesses include Royal Velvet and cannon.

7 Accessories Tourneau Madison Ave. Unit Opens By Rachel StRugatz NeW YORK tourneau, the 111-yearold timepiece specialty retailer, will open the doors on a new concept store here today. the 3,135-square-foot unit at 510 Madison avenue is equipped with a well-staffed service center and adjoining Rolex boutique the brand s third freestanding retail outlet in the u.s. and first in New York. tourneau commissioned the architects of eight Inc. the same firm that worked with Steve Jobs on the first 300 apple stores to bring its retail vision to fruition. In addition to a selection of curated watches from more than 30 brands in- Tourneau s new retail concept store. cluding Baume & Mercier, Blancpain, cartier, chanel, Franck Muller, harry Winston, hublot, Jaeger-lecoulture and Vacheron constantin the store differs from tourneau s other 38 locations in that its business model is built around the concept of counterless selling. this means that the counters are accessible from both sides so sales professionals can stand alongside the customer while showing them watches. at the end of each brushed nickel display case is a seating area consisting of glove leather-topped watch tables with matching chairs to continue the conversation between salesperson and shopper. as a company we are looking to modernize the process of watch-buying, by using new technologies and ways of engagement to shape the customer s experience, said chief executive officer Jim Seuss. the store design also includes an lcd video tower and a series of videos that digitally display the date and time or information that can either be brand or trend driven. there s a discovery wall adjacent to the video screens that also has the option of showcasing a specific brand or trend, as well as eight vignettes that border the store and serve as a platform for brands to tell their story through video and product. a row of vertical walnut wooden shutters welcomes shoppers to the mostly clear glass storefront, managing to divide the front windows without closing anything off, and led lighting in varying intensities was installed that allow consumers to view a watch under different types of light. It s a clean, modern and a new look to luxury retail and the product is still hero, said eight Inc. s principal Wilhelm Oehl. It s a new way of interacting. there s no longer a person behind the counter, you re side by side. every element has been designed to make the experience of selecting a watch easy. tourneau has closed the store it previously had on Madison avenue at 52nd Street, although its flagship on 57th Street remains. MeMo pad GOING TO THE ROOTS: John Varvatos has turned to the Roots, a four-time grammywinning group and the house band on late Night with Jimmy Fallon, to front its fall advertising campaign. I ve been a huge fan of the Roots for years, said Varvatos of the Philadelphia-based septet that has won acclaim for its jazzinfluenced approach to hip-hop. they are one of the most innovative musical forces on the planet. It doesn t hurt that they also have a supercool look from a style standpoint, the designer added. Danny Clinch, who has shot the last 14 Varvatos campaigns, photographed the group at Republic airport in New York as they were getting off a plane. the way the Stones, Jimi hendrix, led zeppelin and the Beatles traveled had a huge impact on the direction for this season s campaign, said Stephen Niedzwiecki, creative director of ad agency Yard. I had been traveling a lot, and when I knew we were shooting the Roots, I started to think about how it would be to travel like the rock stars did in the Seventies. led zeppelin s plane had fireplaces built in. So that s what inspired us to shoot them in that way. Niedzwiecki said a second round of shots was image-based. they re simple rock n roll portraits that are simple and iconic and showed who they were. a bonus of the fall campaign is an impromptu jam on the tarmac that was captured on video. Varvatos said the video will be featured on the John Varvatos Web site beginning this weekend. the ads themselves will break in the September issues of magazines in the u.s. and internationally, including gq, esquire, Vanity Fair and Details. the band has also agreed to play at the designer s store in the former cbgb space on the Bowery during New York Fashion Week in September. JEaN E. PalmIERI For an exclusive first look at the video, see WWD.com. WWD thursday, june 30, WWD.COM CONDE NaST GOES COmmUNal: condé Nast has found an architect to transform 20 empty floors of poured concrete in the rising tower at 1 World trade into hallowed magazine offices. gensler, a behemoth international firm, won the bid to complete interior designs for the new condé Nast offices downtown, chief executive officer Chuck Townsend announced Wednesday. We believe we design workplaces where people want to be, and people should love where they work, said Robin Klehr avia, managing principal at gensler. You should walk into your workplace every day and want to be there. She said that condé Nast executives and her team haven t made any decisions about the office space yet. the first step will be a series of what she called visioning sessions. at 4 times Square, Mancini-Duffy associates, a firm commissioned by companies like equinox and Bloomingdale s, handled the interior design on each magazine s floor. But Frank Gehry s cafeteria was the architectural star of the building. So far the plans for the new offices downtown don t seem at all concerned with architectural flourishes of that grandeur. they want really designed efficient, effective space really flexible space, said avia. they talked about the concept of flexibility and being a space where communication can happen, where people can work together as teams. avia said she couldn t say for sure if gensler would be handing the publisher s cafeteria on the 34th floor I hope we are, she said or if another architect would be chosen. gensler is the largest interior design firm in the country. the firm s client roster includes Dickey s, the texas-based overall company; Dockers; Barneys New York locations in Scottsdale, ariz., and Dallas, and the JetBlue terminal at JFK airport. We ve done a lot of financial services, a lot of financial institutions, said avia. gensler has also produced interior designs for other media companies, including rival hearst, the New York times and the associated Press. ZEKE TURNER WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Spaces COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes Menswear Showrooms D. Levy Adams & Co Showrooms & Lofts BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Great New Office Space Avail ADAMS & CO MEN S DESIGNER SEEKING BUSINESS PARTNER Highly experienced multiskilled men s designer with business acumen has exciting new concept. Seeks high-end int l denim co. or established label to create potential relationship. Please PATTERN/SAMPLES Garment center location. Professional /Reliable Quality. Men & women all style. Low Cost. Small production PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS Full service shop to the trade. Fine fast work WOMEN S GARMENT TRADE NAMES & IP SALE Equitable Transitions, Inc. will sell the trade names "SAND K", "TAYLOR AND HYDE", "SELÉ", "YANK", and " BETTE PAIGE", vendor numbers and customer lists to the highest bidder. Minimum bid of $31,000, all cash. Buyers must submit their bids in person at, on, or before July 1, 2011 commencing 10:00am (PST) at 444 W. Ocean Blvd, Ste 1400, Long Beach, CA 90802, ph , fx: , Designer Childrens Major Childrenswear Co. in PHILA- DELPHIA seeks infant/toddler/4-6x & 4/7 Designer. Req s: strong creative skills, knowledge of current trends. Technical & computer design skills. Need min 2 yrs. Exp. & BFA in fashion design. Fax resume DESIGN ASSISTANT Established clothing manufacturer looking for an entry level design assistant - perfect opportunity for graduates! Duties will include creating cost and color cards, following up with ven- ATTENTION CLASSIFIED ADVERTISERS dors on orders, delivery & minimums, data entry. Candidate must be computer literate, organized with good fol- In observance of Independence Day, WWD will not publish on Monday, July 4th. low up skills. resumes to: The deadline for the Tuesday, July 4th issue of WWD will be FRIDAY July 1st at 11am ET. VP BUSINESS DVLPMNT... $ K Fairchild offices will be closed at1pm on Identify new licensed properties Friday, and all day Monday Jennifer Glenn SRI Search L.K. BENNETT USA INC., a London based clothing, shoes and accessories company has the following openings for its U.S. operations based in NY. Shop Manager and Sales Associates for our 59th Street Bloomingdale s Concession - key responsibilities include: Provide excellent customer service, build and maintain sales generating client base. Drives individual and shop sales goals. Maintain operational and visual standards Foster strong working relationships with Bloomingdale s management team to grow business, and promote brand awareness within the store. Financial Operations Controller - key responsibilities include: General acct, PR, budgeting, financial analysis and financial statement preparation H.R. generalist duties Retail/Wholesale Planner - 3 to 5 years experience required Administrative Asst - entry level We are an equal opportunity employer offering a competitive benefit and compensation package. Please resume to: Question about your Subscription? Call To place an ONLINE ONLY classified ad, log into WWDCAREERS.com and place your ad any time

8 8 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 30, 2011 FINANCIAL Deal in Greece Boosts Luxury Stocks From left: Ferruccio, Leonardo, Wanda and Giovanna Ferragamo; Diego di San Giuliano, and Fulvia and Massimo Ferragamo. {Continued from page one} unchanged, to 22, Shares of Prada SpA were unchanged at Hong Kong dollars, or $5.84 at current exchange. But the good fortune enjoyed by luxury issues Wednesday wasn t widespread. U.S. stocks got a bump from the news out of Athens in the morning, but pared gains as the day went on, with the S&P Retail Index and all three major indices closing below their highs for the day. The retail index rose 0.46 points, or 0.1 percent, to , while the Dow Jones Industrial Average ended the day at 12,261.42, up points, or 0.6 percent. The S&P 500 managed a point, or 0.8 percent, increase to 1, Shares of Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. were up $1.33, or 1 percent, to $ In London, Britain s high street stocks did not fare well, with French Connection Group, Marks and Spencer Group plc and Next plc all falling despite the hopeful news from Athens. The high street has this week lost some of its major players to bankruptcy, including Habitat, chocolate maker Thorntons and the mass market women s retailer Jane Norman. It s a bloodbath on the high street, said Emmanuel Hembert, principal at A.T. Kearney, the global strategy consultancy. Economic fundamentals remain weak and are suffocating consumer spending. Fuel rises, commodity prices, tax increases and public sector cutbacks are squeezing the consumer wallet. Retailers are eating each other s lunch, he added. The Greek vote will not have impacted U.K. consumers either way, said Kate Calvert, retail analyst at Seymour Pierce in London. Today s vote is very much about Greece it is their issue. Consumers here are concerned about their own jobs and their falling household income. But those pressures aren t being felt nearly as much by the affluent in the U.K. or elsewhere, paving the way for the dual luxe initial public offerings over the past 10 days by two major Italian brands. Ferragamo made its debut on the Milan Stock Exchange in a stirring opening ceremony at the Bourse, attended by 25 family members and more than 100 employees from Florence and Milan. I am very moved. This seemed an unreachable target and it s a fantastic day that fills us with satisfaction, said chairman Ferruccio Ferragamo, who was flanked by his mother, Wanda Ferragamo, emotional as she remembered her husband, Salvatore, and was greeted by a standing ovation. Ferruccio Ferragamo said the path to the IPO was beautiful, but difficult and demanding as each day we faced falling markets, but said the company saw rewarding multiples at the end of the book building. WWD.COM Salvatore Ferragamo last week priced its IPO in the midrange of its price guidance, setting each share at 9 euros, or $13 at current exchange, in a flotation that values the company at 1.5 billion euros, or $2.1 billion. The Florence-based luxury house was offering shares ranging from 8 euros to euros, or $11.50 to $ Ferragamo floated about 25 percent of its stock in a deal worth 379 million euros, or $545.2 million. The offer, according to the company, was oversubscribed by 3.6 times, with demand coming from diversified investors worldwide. Armando Branchini, vice president of luxury goods consultancy Intercorporate, said Ferragamo s strong debut and Prada s IPO at the start of the week in Hong Kong are excellent signs and confirm that the multiples expected in luxury are higher than in other publicly listed sectors. Despite the fact that financial markets are not surging, Ferragamo s first day of trading shows how the luxury segment is thriving, he said. A luxury goods analyst who requested anonymity said the price fixed for Ferragamo s IPO was fair and issued a neutral rating for the stock. With the IPO now completed, Ferragamo Finanziaria, controlled by the family, holds 56 percent of the firm, and various members of the family and Hong Kong entrepreneur Peter Woo will own 11 percent and 8 percent, respectively. There will be no capital increase for the listing. WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM SAMANTHA CONTI AND JENNIFER WEIL Isaac Mizrahi and guest Christine Fargnoli, dressed in his designs for The Aisle New York. Sylvia Weinstock PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN Mizrahi Says Aisle Do ON TUESDAY EVENING, close to a hundred brides-to-be and bride hopefuls filed into Isaac Mizrahi s West Side showroom for a meetand-greet with the designer. The occasion? A trunk show celebrating his dress and accessory collection for online wedding retailer The Aisle New York. The girls drank pink champagne, nibbled tiny caviar hors d oeuvres in the shape of engagement rings (courtesy of Peter Callahan Catering) and slipped into a slew of Mizrahi s exclusive designs for the site peplumed, ruffled and embroidered gowns, not to mention the beribboned minaudières and baubles. Most brides don t actually ever get to meet the person who designs their wedding dress like this, said co-host Darcy Miller, editorial director of Martha Stewart Weddings, who had a display of candy-inspired decor done for Dylan Lauren s bridal shower in the back. In addition to The Aisle co-founders Mark Ingram, David Yassky, Deborah Moses and Shara Levy, cake doyenne Sylvia Weinstock was in the house, signing copies of her book Sensational Cakes. Isaac and I are old friends. We ve known each other for years, said Weinstock, recalling how they met more than 20 years ago at the designer s downtown shop. Mizrahi, for his part, recalled his bridal debut: the 1987 wedding of Melissa Lee Huffine and Nuno Brandolini d Adda. I designed the whole wedding the bridesmaids, the kids clothes. It was a big job, he said. I remember Oscar de la Renta was there and all these social ladies. It was terrifying. Although his gown for Huffine was huge, like a Sargent painting, Mizrahi notes that this new collection, priced from $2,200 to $4,500, strikes the balance between grandeur and modernity. I think that s everybody s thing, but we re good at it. He had even higher praise reserved for Weinstock s designs. I can say that, if you have the Sylvia Weinstock wedding cake, he remarked, you re likely to be more fertile and stay together longer. You ll have kids, lots of kids. There was one guest present, however, who wasn t doing any nuptial scouting: Prabal Gurung, who was there to support close friend (and former WWD editor) Yassky. Still, the recent CFDA winner didn t cross out the possibility of doing his own bridal line one day. I m in no rush, but it s an idea that s definitely interesting, said Gurung, who has already designed three wedding gowns for his own friends. There are so many categories I want to get into, and bridal is one of them. VENESSA LAU Calif. Passes Web Sales Tax By JOANNA RAMEY SAN FRANCISCO Joining several other states, California Gov. Jerry Brown on Wednesday signed legislation to require out-of-state Internet sales companies to collect and remit state sales taxes. The law takes immediate effect. The bill expands the definition of a company having physical presence in the state to require collection, aside from having an actual store. Now companies with subsidiaries in California or business relationships that refer potential customers even a Web site link on an unrelated site are required to collect sales taxes. The measure was passed by lawmakers in conjunction with a state budget bill as a means of tapping new revenue to help close a gaping state budget deficit. However, two years ago, similar legislation was vetoed by then-governor Arnold Schwarzenegger, who cited the measure as an overall revenue loser and job killer for Internet sales companies threatening to sever affiliate business ties in protest, such as Amazon.com and Overstock.com State officials estimate $1.15 billion in state sales taxes go uncollected each year from consumers and businesses from out-of-town remote sellers, such as Internet companies and catalogue businesses. But with Amazon alone accounting for 50 percent of Internet sales of large firms without a physical presence before the law, it s estimated new sales tax revenue would drop to $114 million in and $234 million in , adjusting for Amazon breaking its ties with the Golden State, according to the Board of Equalization. Contacted Wednesday, an Overstock.com official confirmed the company would follow through with moving its California advertising affiliate business to other states. We believe the law is unconstitutional and necessitated this decision. There will be no other changes to the way we do business, said Mark Griffin, senior vice president of legal for Overstock.com. The state Internet sales collection bills have been supported by many traditional brick-and-mortar retailers, who argue they re at a disadvantage having to shoulder the cost of sales tax collection and remittance. They are also seeking legislation from the U.S. Congress to create a national standard under which states must collect taxes from remote sellers.

9 MAN OF THE WEEK Pride of New York Now that Andrew Cuomo has signed the gay marriage bill, he can turn his attention to his personal style. MW4 PLUS: John McEnroe and Björn Borg partner for underwear line set to launch at Wimbledon. MW2. June 30, 2011 SPRING 2012 Merchants See Fresh Momentum In Strong Season Buyers boost men s budgets for Milan and Paris collections. by WWD STAFF PHOTO BY DAVIDE MAESTRI Summer Adventure Travel and leisure was the overriding sensibility for spring in Milan and Paris. Designers displayed their sense of adventure with lively prints, playful pant volumes, monotone dressing and multiple interpretations of the safari jacket the season s must-have. For more on the trends, see page MW3. Salvatore Ferragamo MEN S WEAR IS ONE of the brightest spots at retail this year and what buyers saw in Milan and Paris for spring 2012 fueled optimism that the good times should keep on rolling. Men s apparel sales led other categories during holiday and spring and the momentum continued through Father s Day when many retailers reported double-digit gains with strength in everything from suits and dress shirts to lightweight sweaters and casual shirts. The optimism spilled over to Europe, where retailers shopping for next year were upbeat and hopeful Paul Smith was that the strength will continue into next year. shows. one of the top Enticing color, innovative fabrics and creative newcomers were among the highlights of the Paris men s wear collections, which ended here Sunday and followed a strong season of shows in Milan. Though attendance was slightly lower than in Milan, as many buyers and senior executives remained in Italy to complete orderwriting sessions, Paris boasted high-impact collections both on and off the catwalk. There was this understated elegance in most of the collections with the juxtaposition of fantastic energy on the runway, said Kevin Harter, vice president of fashion direction for men s at Bloomingdale s. Among the most praised collections were Lanvin, Dries Van Noten, Givenchy, Paul Smith, Maison Martin Margiela, Acne and Carven, which made its men s wear debut this season. Eric Jennings, vice president and fashion director, men s wear, home, gifts and food at Saks Fifth Avenue, noted the Paris season was less avant-garde. This season the collections showed more breadth of wearable pieces without sacrificing imagination and novelty, he said. Budgets increased across the board, with buyers seeing good potential for lightweight jackets, linen knits, color and prints, and looser pants. Stores generally have seen their men s business growing by double-digits, fueled by a customer who is more fashion savvy, a more relaxed attitude toward dressing and the beginnings of an economic recovery. Here is what buyers had to say about the Paris season: {Continued on page MW2}

10 MW2 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 30, 2011 Men s Week RetaileRs Cite WeaRability of PaRis spring ColleCtioNs {Continued from page MW1} Stephen Ayres, head of men s wear buying, Liberty, London Trendspotting: I really liked the use of clashing colors. acne epitomized this by showing a palette that really shouldn t work together, but did. Sound off: Prices from a lot of brands have gone up but this is across the board. this, combined with a weak pound, is concerning. Gérald Tesson, creative director for men s wear buying, Le Bon Marché, Paris Trendspotting: there were a lot of very lightweight semilined or cotton jackets which we think are going to do well. everybody has been inspired by Prada s thick-soled shoes. Sound off: It s becoming a little complicated juggling our timetable to include attending fashion shows and checking out more creative and accessible brands at the trade shows, in addition to buying appointments in showrooms. George Yang, general merchandise manager of men s wear, Lane Crawford, Hong Kong Trendspotting: a strong California, West Coast, laid-back, cool attitude with compelling color schemes, geometric patterns and stripes. there s a strong offer in pants from the sporty to the dramatic full proportion of the Seventies. Sound off: envelopes were pushed in this whole gender-bender theme consisting of skirts, tunic-dresses featured as next summer s masculine separates. Kevin Harter, vice president of fashion direction for men s, Bloomingdale s, New York Trendspotting: hawaiian prints, geometric stripes, linen pants, lightweight parkas and mixed-texture knits. Sound off: Coming off a strong spring, we continue to be optimistic that the men s business will continue to thrive. Grégoire Proffit, designer and casual men s wear buyer, Galeries Lafayette, Paris Trendspotting: Dior-style minimalism, nature [with green and floral inspirations] by KaRYN monget Acne LoNGtIme RIvaLS and grand slam champs björn borg and John mcenroe will be lending a new thrill to Wimbledon fans Friday: their own underwear line. the two tennis legends will officially unveil their collaboration at a press conference at Wimbledon during this week s matches, saying they have joined forces to launch a limited edition collection of men s underwear that will bear their signature names. this will be the first time that a name other than borg s will be featured on his 22-year-old underwear line. the collection is inspired by the Golden age of tennis in the eighties when borg fought off mcenroe in the classic 1980 Wimbledon final that remains one of the highest-quality clashes in the tournament s history. the line, which will be introduced at retail in august for fall selling, will consist of 100 pieces of men s underwear embellished with the signatures of borg and mcenroe. there will be four underwear styles, two designed by borg and two by mcenroe. the underwear will be available in 17 countries including europe, Canada and the U.S. as well as at bjornborg.com. Suggested retail prices have not been finalized. I loved the idea as soon as I heard it. It s an opportunity to once again team up with John and beat him on new grounds, borg jokingly said. borg became a fashion entrepreneur in 1989 when he created björn borg underwear. the Stockholm-based $370 million björn borg ab, which includes fragrances, accessories, shoes and sportswear licenses, as well as 36 stores and franchises, went public in In addition to Sweden and the Netherlands, the underwear brand began selling in the U.K. in 2006 in 120 and water effects with bright blue shades that are almost electric. In terms of products, the most saleable items remain suits and tuxedos. Sound off: the pace is very fast between shows, showroom presentations and buying appointments for international buyers. We have to be well organized. Hirofumi Kurino, creative adviser, United Arrows, Japan Trendspotting: a sportif influence, a hand-crafted feel, color, coats in various spring colors. Sound off: We expected to see more ethnic and nomadic influences, which were strong in milan. Tancrède de Lalun, merchandise manager for men s and women s wear, Printemps, Paris Trendspotting: Pants are definitely no longer fitted. outerwear is almost technical, and we are seeing ethnic inspiration with ikat-like fabrics. Sound off: We liked the fact that there was a new energy in Paris with brands that don t necessarily show on the runway, like ami and Carven. John Gerhardt, creative director, Holt Renfrew, Canada Trendspotting: the double-breasted sport jacket, the summer parka, the four-pocket jacket, the bomber jacket, the colored pant, the bermuda short, the band-collar shirt and the pleated pant. Sound off: We have a heavy investment in our sportswear assortment and with this season s overriding theme of casual elegance, we know we will have a very successful season. Eric Jennings, vice president and fashion director, men s wear, home, gifts and food, Saks Fifth Avenue, New York Trendspotting: there was this fantastic shade of blue, somewhere between French blue and royal blue, that kept popping up over and over. Second, there were amazing prints this season, from tropical to geometric to ethnic. Last, the textured, mélange colored knits from fall continued into spring, now in lightweight, fine-gauge yarns. Sound off: one of the things that I love in Paris is seeing more designers from Japan and Korea. I think they are tremendously inspirational and directional right now. Jason Broderick, menswear general merchandise manager, Harrods, London Trendspotting: there was a very feminine approach from some designers such as thom browne, Yves Saint Laurent and Lanvin drawing inspiration from women s wear, but this new look translates well to sportswear. Sound off: the collections were better in the showroom in some cases. the brands are pushing commerciality and restricting the super fashionable looks to the catwalk. Anita Barr, director of men s wear, Selfridges, London Trendspotting: We saw really strong tailoring, and it was mix-and-match, such as doubleand single-breasted jackets with an anklelength trouser. there was a strong sports luxe feel. there was an undercurrent of surf, with Givenchy s bird of paradise print and also off the runways, with a lot of guys wearing hawaiian shirts. Color is still key and it responds really well for us at retail. in-store shops at stores such as harvey Nichols, Selfridges and Urban outfitters. borg said he sought to start his brand with underwear because he envisioned a functional fashion product that would address his lifestyle needs, especially as an athlete. as for mcenroe s involvement with underwear design and its connection to tennis, he described his collaboration as having my feel to it. this is sort of a fun company it kind of reminds me of the beautiful [tennis] clothes and old school short shorts we wore. those were the fun days, said mcenroe, who is currently featured with borg in hbo s Fire & Ice, a documentary chronicling the rivalry between the mercurial mcenroe and the stoic borg. tennis really grew in the Seventies, and björn was a big Robert Graham Marks 10th Year With New Line RobeRt GRaham is celebrating its 10th birthday with a special capsule collection of men s woven tops that will be sold under the moniker X Collection by Robert Graham. the 40-piece collection was inspired by the brand s most thoughtprovoking pieces over the past decade and will include classic oxfords and poplins with rubber overprints in paisleys as well as windowpanes, dots and rubber-trimmed armband stripes. there will be split insets in contrasting fabric on the backs of collars, extended double-buttoned cuffs and digital prints overlaid on some of the label s most popular checks and stripes. the shirts will retail from $178 to $228. the X Collection by Robert Graham is a hybrid of athletic roots and classic, traditional styling, said Robert Stock, creator and designer of Robert Graham, adding that it represents our design highlights over the past decade. the collection consists of luxury fabrics and treatments that bring new light to our classics. the collection will launch at retail in November. JEAN E. PALMIERI A look from the X Collection. borg, Mcenroe finally on the same team tennis legends to introduce a men s underwear collection under their own names at Wimbledon friday. John McEnroe Ami part of that, and in the late Seventies I got into the mix. those were the Golden Years and there was a lot of personality in the game. but the game has changed a lot, everybody and the professionalism of the sport. björn was one of the few people I got along with on and off the court. We weren t friends immediately. I looked at him from a distance as a kid, but once we got together in social situations, he actually took me under his wing and certainly gave credibility about me as a player, said mcenroe, who has been a sports commentator for grand slam tennis matches for NbC and the bbc since asked if he designed the underwear bearing his name, mcenroe replied, over the years, björn has been nice enough to bring me the newest underwear designs. I thought this [project] would be a fun thing, but I didn t realize we would be doing something together. and then Björn Borg the agents became involved because of the anniversary and I thought some money will go to charity and it will be a win-win situation. In addition to 4 percent of sales being donated to the John and Patty mcenroe Foundation which in turn will benefit charities including beyond Nuclear, Laureus USa, the Sean Penn haiti Foundation and Riverkeeper the collaboration will include an online charity auction that will auction off eight pieces of borg and mcenroe tennis memorabilia as well as one hour of ball time with each tennis icon. the auction begins Saturday at bjornborg.com. Regarding what the underwear styles look like, mcenroe said, one [style] is colorful and the other is tighty whitey. I wear short boxers myself. I think it s good to express yourself with fashion. I thought the [tennis] clothes we wore back in the day were great. I always liked the short shorts, but nobody seems to agree with me.

11 Men s Week WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 30, 2011 MW3 Euro Trend The top trends, straight from the Milan and Paris spring runway shows. ALEX BADIA BLUE BLOOD From left: Dior Homme, Maison Martin Margiela and Lanvin. PLEATS From left: Yohji Yamamoto and Calvin Klein Collection THE LONG BLAZER From left: Versace and Emporio Armani GLOBAL EXPLORER From left: Louis Vuitton and Trussardi 1911 PRINTS From left: D&G and Givenchy PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DAVIDE MAESTRI AND MAURICIO MIRANDA

12 MW4 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 30, 2011 Men s Week HaMill to PaPers: Don t DroP DeaD Tabloid City Lives Man of THE WEEK Sloppy shoulder. Light blue tie shows idealistic spirit. Baggy suit jacket with sleeves that are too long. metallic square belt buckle is a hint of his casual sensibility. extra fabric in pants makes him look overweight. Andrew Cuomo Pete HAMILL isn t much of a believer in the afterlife, but his hypothetical version of heaven looks something like a city room. there s going to be guys smoking everywhere and yelling obscenities at each other as the deadline comes, Hamill told me. that s what it should be like. Who wants to be sitting around with Jerry Falwell? I m sure if there s a God, he s sitting around with Lenny Bruce. It s about what you would expect from a man for whom newspapers are religion. He actually looked a little like a priest, in a black short-sleeve shirt, black pants and black, slightly geriatric sneakers, when I met him at his apartment in tribeca, where his lives with his wife, Japanese journalist Fukiko Aoki. It was two days after his 76th birthday, or my 50th anniversary of my 26th, as Hamill preferred it. I found him in front of the tv, watching coverage of Michele Bachmann s announcement of her presidential bid, with the new York daily news on the coffee table and the walls lined with full bookcases. Hamill appeared to be a fan of Mexican art, some collected, some his own, including two unfinished paintings, one featuring a mermaid, La sirena, which, as he told me, is a common motif on Mexican fortune-telling cards. What does it symbolize? Probably fatalism, since it s Mexico. I was prepared to be enlightened. Pete Hamill started as a high school dropout from Brooklyn, who went to work for the new York Post when it was owned by dorothy schiff and was new York s most liberal paper. But we also had William Buckley, said Hamill. He got his first byline in 1960 when someone called into the city desk to report a man sitting outside in the rain. Hamill was dispatched to the scene to find the man had been evicted from his apartment with his wife and kids. By noon that day, there were three jobs offers for him, offers for apartments, et cetera, from the readers, said Hamill. In the history of the planet it s a very tiny thing, but it changed the guy s life. I used to get Christmas cards from his daughters 10 years later. that s just a small example of what I learned early by what they mean by the power of the press. You can help people. that was a long time ago. Pete Hamill is old school. In newspaper terms he may define it. His brand of journalism was dignified; with it he wielded power and led a sexy life, traveling the world, covering wars in Vietnam, Lebanon and northern Ireland, and ended up in plenty of glamour spots. I went to work in europe in 1963, and one night I found myself at a table with movie producer Joe Levine, who was a wonderful, insane guy, and Marcello Mastroianni, Federico Fellini, who was talking with me about comics, and Claudia Cardinale, he said. I remember sitting there one moment and thinking, they re paying me to do this? He was one of the Post s prized columnists when it was the home of columnists, and later went on to edit the paper when it had the electric clappers on its chest and was being alternately killed and resuscitated as he did the daily news, all the while writing books. His 11th novel, tabloid City, has just come out. As the title suggests, the story revolves around a new York City tabloid in 2009 and a double homicide. there are socialites, a hedge-fund scandal, terrorism and, of course, what you might call the changing landscape of print journalism. Hamill made a point to tell me it s a novel, not an essay. He said he didn t want to come off as hopeless, not when he sees the passion of some of his students at new York university, where he teaches journalism. Besides, he believes journalism will flourish he cited the new York times hyper-local project, which is concentrated on a few blocks in the east Village and forces reporters to interact with their immediate surroundings. this is the kind of Boys night out By Jessica Iredale Lady Gaga, move aside: There s a new gay icon in town. New York Governor Andrew Cuomo will go down in history for keeping his campaign promise and signing the gay marriage bill, but when it comes to his own personal style, he needs to chic it up. Very Jersey Shore : looks as though he s been hitting the tanning bed. Sleek blazer fits him like a glove and makes him look powerful. wide retro lapel with higher notch is a more youthful silhouette. He showed his free spirit by losing the tie. unbuttoning another button would have given him more of an edge without losing his credibility. PoLItICAL CHArISmA: A+ PerSonAL StYLe: B Gay flag as a pocket square is a perfect political statement and a better choice than other Gay Pride memorabilia such as rainbow ring necklaces. thing he feels the digital age threatened most, the human interaction of the city room, which hasn t been the same since photographers stopped coming in to develop their film and tell someone what they had seen. they often cover three to four stories a day and know what s going on out there in a way that the editor from Larchmont doesn t. I told him that my editor lives in Larchmont. so quote me on that, Hamill said. As for the new York Post, I root for it it gave me my life, said Hamill. As for what story he would like to be covering right now: Afghanistan. As for baseball, Hamill has lost interest since steroids changed the game. Baseball isn t the only game that he has let drift by him. dominique strauss-kahn has been staying around the corner from Hamill s apartment, and he s actually met Anthony Weiner a few times casually, yet he found neither story line consuming. nothing surprises me, particularly men and their propensity to be fools, said Hamill. I ve done it myself at different points; people do it all the time. What would Chaucer have written about if men were perfect? Why would we have ever invented the blues in this country if men were perfect? SUIT photo by STAN honda/afp/getty ImAGeS; march by JemAl CoUNTeSS/GeTTy ImAGeS Time Cop Pete Hamill Gabriel García Márquez was a newspaperman originally in Colombia, he said. He talked about, and I agree, how everybody has a public life, a private life and a secret life. the public life, what he meant was if you take Lady Gaga to elaine s, you re fair game. the private life is by invitation only. You can t go hanging over a tree limb to photograph someone in the shower of their own home. the secret life, until very recently, has been nobody s business. the secrets of what happens in a marriage, what is withheld and what is by mutual agreement not discussed. What would have been permissible last month would never have happened with Franklin roosevelt, said Hamill. even though he had mistresses here and there, even though eleanor had a couple of lovers gay or otherwise doesn t matter. Because there was a common agreement that this isn t good for the country, it doesn t affect his performance as president. What the hell is the difference? Like I said, Pete Hamill is old school. someone called me the day the Weiner thing was confirmed, and I said the only possible headline was schmuck. In his novel, he would have been right. Kellan Lutz and michea Crawford Around sunset on tuesday at the first-ever summer Party on the High Line, recent new York party scene institution Kellan Lutz eye turned to model Michea Crawford to check on her glass. How s your drink? the actor, dressed in a gray button-up and brown pants, asked. do you need another one? WWd had just asked for a hypothetical 30 seconds of his time. eyeing the stopwatch on the digital recorder, it seemed that he was taking the request literally. oh I have a bandanna just like that, Lutz said in rapid fire. Is that an umbrella? I love your shoes. Your glasses are amazing. ten more seconds. Penn Badgley and Jessica Szohr sat on benches behind the actor on the park s diller-von Furstenberg sundeck. other attendees at the party, presented by Coach Men s Collection, included David Byrne, Jen Brill and Sky Ferreira. Bartenders handed out vodka-enhanced Popsicles. A half-block to Lutz s right, revelers lined up to have Coach luggage tags made. the actor looked at a billboard above 15th street. did you see that ad for A X? he asked. dude. 30 seconds up. thank you, he went on, breaking into a smile. that d be the dickest move ever. At least another 30 seconds secured, the twilight actor explained why he d been such a fixture on the new York scene lately. I m doing a movie called syrup with Shiloh Fernandez, Amber Heard, Brittany Snow, and it s amazing to work in new York, he said. I shoot two to three days a week. I have more off days, so it feels like a vacation. I have an apartment here. Proceeds from the party were going toward upkeep of the elevated park. so, had Lutz spent much time on the High Line? no, this is my first time being here, he said with a laugh. I mean, I ve been trying to get up here. I didn t know actually how to get up here. Matthew Lynch photo by STeve eichner photo by lexie moreland

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