Fashion runway slide collection, KA

Transcription

1 Fashion runway slide collection, KA This finding aid was produced using the Archivists' Toolkit February 28, 2017 Describing Archives: A Content Standard Kellen Design Archives August 23, th Ave./ lobby level New York, NY, archivist@newschool.edu

2 Table of Contents Collection Overview... 2 Historical Note... 3 Scope and Contents note... 3 Organization and Arrangement... 4 Administrative Information... 4 Related Materials... 5 Keywords for Searching Related Subjects... 5 Collection Inventory... 6 Collection Overview Repository Kellen Design Archives Creator - Photographer Lecca, Corina Creator - Photographer Lecca, Dan Creator Saks Fifth Avenue (New York, N.Y.). Creator - Photographer Scrimali, Dino Title Fashion runway slide collection Date [inclusive] Extent 8.8 linear ft: 8 boxes (1,157 slides) Summary Saks Fifth Avenue compiled this collection of more than 1,100 slides depicting fashion runway shows during the 1990s. The 35 mm slides - Page 2 -

3 depict haute couture and ready-to-wear collections from an international array of fashion designers and houses. Designers represented in the collection include Adrienne Vittadini, Bill Blass, Calvin Klein, Dolce & Gabbana, Issey Miyake, Max Mara, Michael Kors, Oscar de la Renta, Ralph Lauren, Rifat Ozbek, Versace, Vivienne Westwood, Yves Saint- Laurent, and many others. Former Parsons School of Design students include but are not limited to Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Badgley Mischka, Isaac Mizrahi, Charlotte Neuville, Anna Sui, and Yeohlee Teng. Dan and Corina Lecca, Chris Moore, and Dino Scrimali are some of the photographers whose work is represented in the collection. Preferred Citation note [Identification of item], [date (if known)], Fashion runway slide collection, KA , box, folder, New School Archives and Special Collections, The New School, New York, New York. Return to Table of Contents» Historical Note The company that compiled and donated this collection of slides, Saks Fifth Avenue, is an upscale department store chain, with a flagship store located on Fifth Avenue in New York City, between 49th and 50th Streets. Saks Fifth Avenue originated as a collaborative effort between Horace Saks of Saks & Co. and Bernard Gimbel of Gimbel Brothers department stores. The flagship store opened in 1924 and is famous for its window displays. Adam Long Gimbel ( ), cousin of Bernard and assistant to Horace, became president of Saks after Horace died in 1926 and led the company for many decades until his retirement in Adam and his wife, renowned fashion designer Sophie Haas Gimbel ( ), were donors to Parsons School of Design. In 1974, the Parsons School of Design's library was dedicated as the Adam L. Gimbel Design Library in honor of a gift from the family of the Saks Fifth Avenue executive. In 1982, it was rededicated as the Adam and Sophie Gimbel Design Library following a fundraising initiative headed by the Gimbel's son Jay Rossbach ( ) and Saks executive Helen O'Hagan. Return to Table of Contents» Scope and Contents note - Page 3 -

4 The collection consists of 35 mm color slides compiled by Saks Fifth Avenue documenting fashion runway shows during the 1990s. It is unclear which corporate function collected or commissioned these slides, but it is possible buyers used them to determine which collections would be sold by Saks, or the images may have been used for advertising. Designers represented in the collection include Bill Blass, Oscar de la Renta, Dolce & Gabbana, Calvin Klein, Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, Rifat Ozbek, Adrienne Vittadini and many others. Former Parsons students include but are not limited to Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Badgley Mischka, Isaac Mizrahi, Charlotte Neuville, Anna Sui, and Yeohlee Teng. Slides mounts are all labeled with year, season and collection identification. It is unknown whether the photographer, the fashion house, or some other entity labeled the slides. The majority of labels are in English, although a few are in French. Slides are arranged in their seasonal order. Spring and summer collections are combined, as are fall and winter collections. Explicitly labeled cruise, resort, haute couture and ready-to-wear collections have been separated from general seasonal collections. According to notations on the slide mounts, the images depict runway shows in New York, Paris, and Milan. There is no known connection to Parsons School of Design; the school did not host the runway shows depicted in the images. While the photographer is not identified on many slides, the most frequently credited photographer is Dan Lecca, followed by his wife, Corina (sometimes identified as Corine) Lecca. Chris Moore and Dino Scrimali are also identified as photographers. It is believed that the different fashion houses represented in the collection hired the photographers to document their runway shows. The number following the designer's name in the collection inventory indicates the total number of slides contained within each folder. Return to Table of Contents» Organization and Arrangement Slides are arranged chronologically by year and by season, and within each season in alphabetical order. Return to Table of Contents» Administrative Information Publication Information Kellen Design Archives August 23, 2016 Conditions Governing Access note Collection is open for research use. Please contact archivist@newschool.edu for appointment. Use Restrictions - Page 4 -

5 To publish images of material from this collection, permission must be obtained in writing from the New School Archives. Please contact: Immediate Source of Acquisition note Donated by the Fashion Department of Saks Fifth Avenue in Processing Information note Processed by Agnes Szanyi in 2014, relying exclusively on information printed on slide mounts to identify and arrange slides by designer and season. No external research was conducted to confirm the accuracy of the information. In cases where slide labels appear in French, such as "P.A.P." for "pret-aporter" or "hiver" for winter, they were translated into English for consistency in folder titles. The New School Archives gratefully acknowledges Peter Shand's insight and recommendations regarding the processing of this collection. Return to Table of Contents» Related Materials The Saks Fifth Avenue fashion publicity records (KA.0018) in the New School Archives documents designer apparel and accessories sold at Saks Fifth Avenue during the 1950s, 1960s, and early 1970s. Return to Table of Contents» Keywords for Searching Related Subjects Corporate Name(s) Anne Klein (Firm). Badgley Mischka (Firm). Calvin Klein, Inc. Chanel (Firm). Chloé (Firm). Christian Dior, Inc. Dolce & Gabbana. Donna Karan Company. Emporio Armani (Department store). Fendi (Firm). Genny (Firm). Gianni Versace S.p.A. Gucci (Firm). Lanvin (Firm). Pierre Balmain (Firm). Genre(s) - Page 5 -

6 Slides (photographs). Fashion runway slide collection, KA Personal Name(s) Armani, Giorgio Blass, Bill De la Renta, Oscar Ferré, Gianfranco, Galliano, John Gaultier, Jean-Paul Gigli, Romeo, Givenchy, Hubert de, Herrera, Carolina, Jacobs, Marc, Karan, Donna, Klein, Calvin, Kors, Michael Lacroix, Christian, Lagerfeld, Karl Lauren, Ralph Miyake, Issei, Montana, Claude, Mugler, Thierry Neuville, Charlotte Ozbek, Rifat Saint Laurent, Yves Ungaro, Emanuel Valentino, Versace, Gianni Subject(s) Fashion merchandising. Fashion shows. Return to Table of Contents» Collection Inventory Box Folder Spring and Summer 1990 Blass, Bill Chanel De la Renta, Oscar Page 6 -

7 Gigli, Romeo Herrera, Carolina Klein, Calvin Kors, Michael Lagerfeld, Karl Lauren, Ralph Lempicka, Lolita Montana Mugler, Thierry Neuville, Charlotte Ozbek Roehm, Carolyn Saint Laurent, Yves Shamask Ungaro Valentino Vittadini, Adrienne Fall and Winter 1990 Armani Couture Byblos Chanel Dior Emporio Armani Fendi Ferre, Gianfranco Gaultier, Jean Paul Genny Gigli, Romeo Hamnett, Katharine Krizia Lacroix Lagerfeld, Karl Lempicka, Lolita Miyake, Issey Montana Page 7 -

8 Moschino Mugler, Thierry Saint Laurent, Yves Sybilla Ungaro Valentino Versace Haute Couture Winter 1990 Chanel Dior Givenchy Lacroix Lanvin Saint Laurent, Yves Ungaro Valentino Versace Spring and Summer 1991 Anne Klein Armani Beene, Geoffrey Blass, Bill Byblos Chanel De la Renta, Oscar Dior Fendi Ferre, Gianfranco Galliano, John Gaultier, Jean Paul Genny Gigli, Romeo Hamnett, Katharine Herrera, Carolina Karan, Donna Page 8 -

9 Klein, Calvin Kors, Michael Lacroix Lagerfeld, Karl Lauren, Ralph Lempicka, Lolita Missoni Mizrahi, Isaac Montana Moschino Mugler, Thierry Roehm, Carolyn Rykiel, Sonia Saint Laurent, Yves Ungaro Valentino Versace Fall and Winter 1991 Anne Klein Armani Beene, Geoffrey Biagiotti Blass, Bill Byblos Castelbajac, Jean de Chanel Chloe Comme des Garcons Complice Courreges De la Renta, Oscar Dior DKNY Duke, Randolph Fendi Page 9 -

10 Ferre, Gianfranco Galante, Maurizio Gaultier, Jean Paul Genny George, Jennifer Gigli, Romeo Givenchy Gucci Hermes Kamali, Norma Karan, Donna Kenzo Klein, Calvin Kors, Michael Krizia Lacroix Lagerfeld, Karl Lauren, Ralph Lempicka, Lolita Mackie, Bob Missoni Miyake, Issey Mizrahi, Isaac Montana Mugler, Thierry Oldham, Todd Perris, Bernard Perry Ellis Pomodoro, Carmelo Prada Roehm, Carolyn Rykiel, Sonia Roth, Francis Saint Laurent, Yves Scherrer Page 10 -

11 Sitbon, Martine Ungaro Valentino Versace Vittadini, Adrienne Westwood, Vivienne Yamamoto, Yohji Haute Couture 1991 Chanel Dior Lacroix Lanvin Ungaro Valentino Versace Cruise 1993 Abboud, Joseph Complice Genny Valentino Resort 1993 Badgley Mischka Chanel Dior Genny Lacroix Lagerfeld, Karl Montana Mugler, Thierry Saint Laurent, Yves Ungaro Fall and Winter 1993 Abboud, Joseph Anne Klein Armani Page 11 -

12 Biaggioti Chanel Chloe Dior Fendi Ferre, Gianfranco Dolce & Gabbana Gaultier, Jean Paul Gigli, Romeo Gucci Khang, Gemma Klein, Calvin Lacroix Lagerfeld, Karl Lars, Byron Miyake, Issey Mugler, Thierry Ungaro Valentino Haute Couture Fall and Winter 1993 Balmain Chanel Dior Galante, Maurizio Givenchy Lacroix Saint Laurent, Yves Scherrer Ungaro Valentino Versace Spring and Summer 1994 Alfaro, Victor Anne Klein Armani Page 12 -

13 Badgley Mischka Balmain Blass, Bill Byblos Castelbajac, Jean de Chanel Chloe Chun, Eva Comme des Garcons Complice De la Renta, Oscar Demuelemeester, Ann Dior Dolce & Gabbana Eisen Escada Fendi Ferragamo Ferre, Gianfranco Gaultier, Jean Paul Genny George, Jennifer Gigli, Romeo Gonnet Herve Leger Kamali, Norma Karan, Donna Khang, Gemma Klein, Calvin Lacroix Lagerfeld, Karl Lang, Helmut Lars, Byron Lauren, Ralph McFadden, Mary Page 13 -

14 Miller, Nicole Missoni Miyake, Issey Mizrahi, Isaac Montana Moschino Mugler, Thierry Oldham, Todd Ozbek Phillips, Sarah Rykiel, Sonia Saint Laurent, Yves Sanchez, Fernando Scassi Sui, Anna Tayama, Atsuro Tyler, Richard Ungaro Valentino Van Noten, Dries Versace Vittadini, Adrienne Haute Couture Spring and Summer 1994 Balmain Dior Galante, Maurizio Givenchy Guy Laroche Lacroix Saint Laurent, Yves Scherrer Ungaro Valentino Versace Fall and Winter Page 14 -

15 Alfaro, Victor Anne Klein Armani Badgley Mischka Balmain Beene, Geoffrey Blass, Bill Byblos Castelbajac, Jean de Chanel Chloe CK Sport Comme des Garcons Complice De la Renta, Oscar Dior DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Eisen, Mark Emporio Armani Fendi Feng, Han Ferragamo Ferre, Gianfranco Franco, Hubert Gaultier, Jean Paul Genny George, Jennifer Ghost Gigli, Romeo Givenchy Gucci Herrera, Carolina Herve Leger Kamali, Norma Page 15 -

16 Karan, Donna Klein, Calvin Lacroix Lagerfeld, Karl Lars, Byron Lauren, Ralph McFadden, Mary Miller, Nicole Missoni Miyake, Issey Mizrahi, Isaac Montana Oldham, Todd Ozbek Rykiel, Sonia Saint Laurent, Yves Sander, Jil Scassi Sui, Anna Tam, Vivienne Toledo, Isabel Tyler, Richard Ungaro Valentino Versace Vittadini, Adrienne Haute Couture Fall and Winter 1994 Balmain Chanel Dior Galante, Maurizio Givenchy Lacroix Saint Laurent, Yves Valentino Page 16 -

17 Versace Resort 1994 Anne Klein Karan, Donna Klein, Calvin Mizrahi, Isaac Tyler, Richard Haute Couture 1995 Balmain Chanel Dior Lacroix Saint Laurent, Yves Scherrer Ungaro Valentino Versace Spring and Summer 1995 Armani Comme des Garcons Costume National Oldham, Todd Fall and Winter 1995 Alfaro, Victor Anne Klein Beene, Geoffrey Blass, Bill DKNY Galliano, John Hermes Herrera, Carolina Karan, Donna Klein, Calvin Lars, Byron Oldham, Todd Page 17 -

18 Sui, Anna Tam, Vivienne Tyler, Richard Van Noten, Dries Versace Ready-to-Wear Fall and Winter 1995 Armani Demeulemeester, Ann Ferre, Gianfranco Givenchy Lacroix Miyake, Issey Mugler, Thierry Sander, Jil Valentino Westwood, Vivienne Haute Couture Spring and Summer 1996 Ungaro Versace Spring and Summer 1997 Alfaro, Victor Gaulthier, Jean Paul Howard, Janet Klein, Calvin Summer and Winter 1997 Berardi, Antonio Ribiero, Clements Fall and Winter 1997 Armani, Giorgio Bartlett, John Blumarine D by DKNY Dennis, Pamela Dior Dolce & Gabbana Page 18 -

19 Eisen, Mark Emporio Armani Fendi Ferre, Gianfranco Ferretti, Alberta Galliano, John Gaulthier, Jean Paul Genny Ghost Gucci Halston Howard, Janet Istante Klein, Calvin Lagerfeld, Karl Lauren, Ralph Lazar, Susan Marni Max Mara McQueen, Alexander Miller, Nicole Missoni Molinari, Anna Philosophy Rowley, Cynthia Sander, Jil Sportmax Steele, Lawrence Ter et Bantine Versace, Gianni Westwood, Vivienne Yeohlee Spring and Summer 1998 Armani, Giorgio Bartlett Page 19 -

20 BCBG Blumarine Byblos Cerruti Chanel Colonna Chloe D by DKNY Daryl K Dellaqua Dior Dolce & Gabbana Eisen, Mark Emporio Armani Fendi Ferre, Gianfranco Ferretti, Alberta Galliano, John Gaster, Owen Gaulthier, Jean Paul Genny Givenchy Gucci Halston Iceberg Jacobs, Marc Karan, Donna Klein, Calvin Kors, Michael Lang, Helmut Lauren, Ralph Max Mara Missoni Miu Miu Mizrahi, Isaac Page 20 -

21 Molinari, Anna Oldham, Todd Ozbek Philosophy Prada Rocha, John Rodriguez, Narcisco Rykiel, Sonia Sander, Jil Sitbon Sportmax Sprouse, Stephen Steele, Lawrence Stuart, Jill Sui, Anna Tam, Vivienne Tyler Valentino Versace Versus Von Furstenberg, Diane Westwood, Vivienne Fall and Winter 1998 Armani Badgley Mischka BCBG Beene, Geoffrey Berardi Biani Blass, Bill Blumarine Byblos Celine Cerruti Chalayan, Hussein Page 21 -

22 Chanel Chloe Comme des Garcons Daryl K De la Renta, Oscar Demeulemeester, Ann Dior Etro Fendi Ferragamo Ferretti, Alberta Galliano, John Gaultier, Jean Paul Genny Givenchy Grachvogel Gucci Guy Laroche Halston Halston Signature Hermes Herrera, Carolina Herve Leger Jacobs, Marc Karan, Donna Klein, Calvin Kors, Michael Krizia Lacroix Lanvin Lazar, Susan Loewe Louis Vuitton Marni Max Mara Page 22 -

23 McDonald McQueen, Alexander Missoni Miu Miu Miyake, Issey Mizrahi, Isaac Molinari, Anna Moschino Mugler, Thierry Ozbek Prada Rabanne, Paco Red Label Red or Dead Ribiero Rykiel, Sonia Sander, Jil Schon Sitbon, Martine Stuart, Jill Steel Steele, Lawrence Sui, Anna Tracy, Ellen TSE Tyler, Richard Ungaro Valentino Valvo, Carmen Marc Van Noten, Dries Versace Versus Westwood, Vivienne Yamamoto, Yohji Fall and Winter Page 23 -

24 Abboud, Joseph Balenciaga Balmain Bartlett, John Beene, Geoffrey Biagiotti Blass, Bill Blumarine Bottega Veneta Celine Cerruti Chanel Chloe De la Renta, Oscar Dior DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Duke, Randolph Emporio Armani Fendi Feng, Han Ferragamo Ferre, Gianfranco Galliano, John Genny Givenchy Gucci Guy Laroche Hermes Herrera, Carolina Herve Leger Jacobs, Marc Karan, Donna Klein, Calvin Kors, Michael Page 24 -

25 Krizia Lanvin, Lauren, Ralph Lazar, Susan Loewe Louis Vuitton McFadden, Mary Miller, Nicole Mori, Hanae Prada Rowley, Cynthia Robinson, Patrick Rodriguez, Narciso Saint Laurent, Yves Sander, Jil Searle Starzewski, Tomasz Sui, Anna Tam, Vivienne Toi, Zang Tracy, Ellen Treacy, Phillip Trussardi TSE Tyler, Richard Ungaro Valentino Versace Versus Westwood, Vivienne Yamamoto, Yohji Yeohlee Ready-to-Wear Fall and Winter 1999 Comme des Garcons Spring and Summer Page 25 -

26 Alfaro, Victor Badgley Mischka Bally Bartlett, John Beene, Geoffrey Blass, Bill Bottega Veneta Byblos Celine De la Renta, Oscar DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Duke, Randolph Etro Farhi, Nicole Fendi Ferragamo Ferre, Gianfranco Genny Gucci Herrera, Carolina Hilfiger Jacobs, Marc Karan, Donna Klein, Calvin Kors, Michael Krizia Lauren, Ralph Louis Vuitton McQueen, Alexander Missoni Miu Miu Moses, Rebecca Prada Pucci Page 26 -

27 Purcell, James Rodriguez, Narciso Rowley, Cynthia Sander, Jil Schon, Mila Sui, Anna Tracy, Ellen Trussardi TSE Tuleh Tyler, Richard Versace Yeohlee Ready-to-Wear Spring and Summer 2000 Balenciaga Balmain Bergere Chanel Chloe Comme des Garcons Dior Galliano, John Gaultier, Jean Paul Givenchy Guy Laroche Hermes Herve Leger Lacroix Lanvin Loewe Mori, Hanae Rykiel, Sonia Saint Laurent, Yves Thimister Ungaro Page 27 -

28 Valentino Westwood, Vivienne Yamamoto, Yohji Page 28 -