1 TOD S SALES UP 19.6%/2 THE COUNTERFEITING CHALLENGE/12 Women s Wear Daily The Retailers Daily Newspaper February 1, 2006 $2.00 WWDWEDNESDAY Sportswear Sugar Coat NEW YORK It may have started with underpinnings, but now adam+eve is about much more. A full contemporary lineup for designer Adam Lippes is about to hit stores, while his fall collection will be presented at Olympus Fashion Week on Monday. Here, a fur-trimmed wool coat and a wool and chiffon dress with just the right dose of sweetness. For more on Lippes and other innerwear designers, see pages 4 and 5. PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; MODEL: SARAH PARR/SVM; HAIR BY ALEX DIZON/ARTISTS MANAGEMENT; MAKEUP BY JENNA MENARD/JUMP; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN Red-Carpet Favorites: Reese, Charlize, Keira Top Designers Lists By Rose Apodaca and Marcy Medina LOS ANGELES Let the games begin. Forget the Winter Olympics in Turin. The race for the gold kicked off at dawn Tuesday in Hollywood and reverberated through New York, Paris and Milan as the Oscar nominees were announced. Which stars do designers most want to dress for the 78th annual Academy Awards on March 5? The list is sure to include Reese Witherspoon, Keira Knightley, Charlize Theron, Felicity Huffman, Rachel Weisz and Michelle Williams. Newcomer Amy Adams, nominated for best supporting actress, was recognized by the Academy of Motion See Academy, Page 6
2 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2006 Tod s Sales Up 19.6% in 05 By Amanda Kaiser SAINT ELPIDIO A MARE, Italy Tod s posted a 19.6 percent jump in 2005 sales as president and chief executive officer Diego Della Valle outlined a plan to focus on organic growth and careful product extension in areas like apparel and eyewear rather than acquisitions or largescale retail rollouts. Sales for the 12 months ended Dec. 31 jumped 19.6 percent to million euros, or $626.6 million at average exchange, for the year. Tod s said sales would have risen 20.1 percent at constant exchange rates. If we don t make any mistakes over the next couple of years, our revenues will grow just as big as if we would have made acquisitions, said Della Valle, who hosted a small group of journalists at company headquarters here, near Ancona, to tour the footwear factory and discuss corporate strategy. Tod s did not release profit figures, which are due in the spring. But the luxury goods group s chief financial officer, Emilio Marcellari, said profits should be in line with analysts expectations for a net profit of about 8 percent of revenues. That would work out to net profits of some 40.2 million euros, or $50.1 million. Della Valle forecast double-digit sales growth for Elsewhere, Della Valle revealed plans to expand Tod s By Katherine Bowers Diego Della Valle manufacturing capabilities in Italy, open stores for acquired brand Roger Vivier and strike a licensing deal for Tod s-branded eyewear with Marcolin, a company in which Della Valle and his brother, Andrea, own a combined stake of about 50 percent. Della Valle reiterated his commitment to keeping his production in Italy. There are plans to expand the shoe manufacturing facilities here and build a factory in Tuscany for handbags. Both construction projects should be completed by the end of The ceo noted extremely high interest in the Vivier brand. Vivier s London store is set to open in a couple of months on Sloane Street; a store on New York s Madison Avenue should open in September, and the company is scouting locations in Milan, hoping to open a unit there by February of next year. Della Valle said he doesn t rule out the possibility of a fragrance license for Vivier, but no deal is near. Geographically, sales rose in every market. Revenues from Italy increased 18 percent to million euros, or $300.6 million, while those in the rest of Europe advanced 15.2 percent to million euros, or $167.4 million. Della Valle noted a logistical snag on deliveries hurt 2004 sales in the United States, but sales have since rebounded, growing 13.7 percent to 57 million euros, or $70.9 million, in Revenues from Asia and the rest of the world grew 42.1 percent to 70.3 million euros, or $87.5 million. Tod s has been trying to boost its profile in Asia. In 2005, the company opened 15 stores in the region through franchising agreements, four of them in China. As of Dec. 31, Tod s had 105 directly operated stores and 46 franchise boutiques around the world. Tod s said same-store sales at its directly owned retail network grew 13.6 percent in 2005, accelerating in the last two months of the year. Former Wal-Mart Exec Pleads Guilty BOSTON Former Wal-Mart vice chairman Thomas Coughlin, who was second-in-command of the world s largest retailer and a friend of founder Sam Walton, pleaded guilty Tuesday to five counts of federal wire fraud and one count of tax evasion in the theft of as much as $500,000 in company funds. In a dramatic conclusion to the case, Coughlin admitted before U.S. District Judge Robert T. Dawson in Fort Smith, Ark., that he had a subordinate, former director of operations Robert E. Hey Jr., prepare phony expense reports and thirdparty invoices for a fraud that Wal-Mart said took place over a six-year period. Hey pleaded guilty to wire fraud and tax evasion in November and agreed to cooperate with prosecutors. Coughlin, 57, had maintained his innocence for months, claiming the reimbursements were part of a secret, company-sanctioned scheme to spy on union organizers. Bentonville, Ark.-based Wal- Mart, which opposes unions, denied the charges. His fall is all the more stunning because he had once been positioned for Wal-Mart s top job and was close to the Walton family. When Coughlin retired in December 2004, The Walton Family Foundation and the Wal-Mart/Sam s Club Foundation together donated $4 million to name a new Bentonville Public Library after Coughlin and his wife, Cindy. The plea agreement was sealed, but the Arkansas Democrat-Gazette reported that it contained a proposed deal for Coughlin to serve a 27-month prison sentence. Under federal sentencing guidelines, Coughlin faces a maximum of 28 years in prison and $1.35 million in fines. He is free on bail. Wal-Mart aggressively pursued the case against Coughlin, turning over evidence against him to a grand jury last March and filing suit to recover money paid to Coughlin as part of his $10 million retirement package. This whole episode has been embarrassing and painful to us as a company and as individuals, said Wal-Mart spokeswoman Mona Williams. Someone we expected to operate with the highest integrity let us down in a very public way. Coughlin issued a statement through his lawyers saying he accepted responsibility for serious personal mistakes in judgment. Among other thefts, Coughlin had Hey prepare false invoices to cover care of his hunting dogs ($700), fees for a private hunting lease in Texas ($6,500) and upgrades to a 1999 Ford pickup ($2,695). At Coughlin s request, Hey also obtained company gift cards, in denominations of $100 and $200, and gave them to Coughlin for personal use. Coughlin bought guns, vodka, a Polish sausage and a Celine Dion CD, according to Hey s plea agreement. Coughlin also used Wal-Mart stores as his personal commissary, requesting that Hey get Sam s Club to provide his son with a laptop and printer as a graduation gift. Gucci Confirms Giannini as Sole Designer MILAN Gucci on Tuesday appointed Frida Giannini as designer of its men s wear, making her the brand s sole creative director. The appointment confirms a front-page story in WWD Tuesday and follows the resignation of John Ray as men s wear creative director. In a terse statement, Mark Lee, Gucci s president and chief executive officer, thanked Ray for his contribution to the success of the company s men s wear during the past 10 years and wished him the best of luck for the future. Giannini s appointment brings to an end the design trio named to the brand in March 2004 following the departure of Gucci s previous creative director, Tom Ford. Giannini originally was named to head the label s accessories design, but took on the role of women s ready-towear creative director after the departure of Alessandra Facchinetti in March Giannini, Ray and Facchinetti were named to head Gucci s design division two years ago, while Stefano Pilati was tapped as creative director of rtw at the group s Yves Saint Laurent division. Alessandra Ilari WWD.COM WWDWEDNESDAY Sportswear GENERAL With the Academy Award nominees announced on Tuesday, the race began to dress the stars on the red carpet for the March 5 event. Former Wal-Mart vice chairman Thomas Coughlin pleaded guilty Tuesday to fi ve counts of federal wire fraud and one count of tax evasion. FASHION: Many sportswear items have their roots in innerwear, while many lingerie designers come from a background in sportswear. The Consumer Confi dence Index rose to 106.3, up from last month, representing the highest level in more than 30 months. Adidas-Salomon closed its blockbuster takeover of Reebok International, and Reebok s longtime ceo, Paul Fireman, is exiting the fi rm. Amid all the worries facing a company trying to launch a product or brand, protecting its intellectual property is often overlooked. Classifi ed Advertisements To reporters and editors at WWD, the address is firstname. using the individual s name. WOMEN S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- RIGHT 2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 191, NO. 22. WWD (ISSN # ) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three additional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. 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THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED In Brief DEAL COMPLETED: Calvin Klein Inc. completed the sale of the licenses for Calvin Klein jeans and accessories in Europe and Asia and ck Calvin Klein sportswear and accessories in Europe to the Warnaco Group Inc. on Tuesday. The deal includes the wholesale and retail businesses corresponding to the licenses, which previously were held by Fingen SpA. Warnaco agreed to buy the licenses last December for 240 million euros, or about $286 million at the exchange rate then. The businesses, which are expected to be accretive to Warnaco s earnings this year, will be based out of Florence and run by Gaetano Sallorenzo, president and chief executive officer of Calvin Klein jeans and sportswear for Europe and Asia at Warnaco. JONES WINS: Jones Apparel Group s cause program, which led to the creation of the nonprofit organization Jones New York in the Classroom Inc., has been awarded the American Apparel & Footwear Association s 2006 Excellence in Social Responsibility Award in the general welfare category. This annual award recognizes best practices in a variety of areas of social responsibility that positively impact employees, business or community. Established in May during National Teachers Month with a $1 million grant from Jones, In the Classroom aims to improve the quality of education for children through the recruitment, retention and support of teachers in America s public schools. In its first year of operation, the program has received $1.5 million from Jones. Jones has also lent additional support by adopting 200 teachers and classrooms, assisting in the makeovers for teachers and their classrooms and donating 250,000 volunteer hours for Jones corporate employees to use in educational facilities in their communities. LYCRA ENTERS THE TENT: Lycra has signed on as an official sponsor of Olympus Fashion Week in New York. Lycra, the premier stretch fiber of Invista, also will have an exhibit in the lobby of the Bryant Park tent, displaying the fiber s use in fashion and its latest innovations. Invista recently has introduced XFit Lycra, a four-way stretch for denim; Xtra Life Lycra for swimwear, and Black Lycra, which allows black garments to retain their color. Over the years, Lycra has been used in collections by designers such as Roberto Cavalli, Derek Lam, Alexander McQueen and Zac Posen. This season, Lycra is sponsoring Posen, Lam and Phillip Lim at New York Fashion Week, all of whom will be incorporating the fiber into their collections to improve fit.
4 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2006 Double Exposure NEW YORK Talk about from the inside out. Innerwear designers are breaking traditional boundaries, heading into ready-to-wear territory. Ying Li s quilted silk jacket. In the beginning, there was a simple cotton pima T-shirt, bearing the name adam+eve. That T-shirt begat a cashmere knit sweater, which begat wovens, such as linen drawstring pants and embroidered basics. From those came outerwear puffy satin jackets and blazers with jeweled cuffs and then, four seasons after its launch, the first full adam+eve collection: brocade safari jackets and delicate puff-sleeve blouses, as well as macramé tops, lotus-print pleated dresses and pintucked halters. They re all being launched this spring in stores including Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and Intermix. Quite an evolution for designer Adam Lippes, whose adam+eve label has become synonymous with his seminal collection of no-nonsense undergarments. People think of us as the guys who make that really cool underwear, Lippes says. I get that all the time. When people know the fashion that we do, they re shocked. I saw Samantha Boardman the other day and she was like, I saw the coolest stuff and it was yours. I didn t know you did that! As it turns out, Lippes isn t the only one stepping into the sportswear arena. Adam+eve joins a spate of innerwear labels that include Araks, Donna L oren, Ying Li and Little Joe by Gail Elliott. Some designers, like Lippes, have tested the waters in past seasons by tossing out a silk blouse here, an embellished tank there, while others, such as Araks and Little Joe by Gail Elliott, have tapped into their lingerie s strong innerwear-as-outerwear vibe for a whole new collection. My lingerie has always had more of a ready-to-wear feeling, so I felt that was the next logical step, says Araks designer Araks Yeramyan, whose new collection is launching for spring. Another logical step for Yeramyan is a runway show, which the Philadelphia native is holding during the upcoming Olympus Fashion for fall. Meanwhile, Lippes is carving out his own two-hour slot on the calendar with an informal presentation of fur-trimmed coats, rabbit vests and wool blazers. While it may seem surprising that some trenches, trousers and pretty chiffon trappings have their roots in your everyday skivvies, it s actually a logical step, considering that many of these designers come from a sportswear background. Lippes is best known for his time spent at Oscar de la Renta as creative director and Yeramyan for her stints at Marc Jacobs and J. Crew. Even Ying Li-Oshrin, known for her hand-painted lingerie and sleepwear, has had 13 years of experience in the children s and contemporary markets. Yeramyan s debut spring collection, available at Barneys New York, includes everything from Loro Piana cashmere tops to loose cotton gauze blouses and dresses, all wholesaling from $90 to $700. It wasn t until the suggestion of Ana Lerario, a friend and owner of New York showroom Fiftytwo, that Yeramyan decided to make the jump into sportswear. Looking back, I think I needed the lingerie to start somewhere really tight, she says. My mind can go to a million places. It was like a good training. Now I m ready for this. Li-Oshrin, similarly, followed the advice of a Neiman Marcus buyer, Kate Dubas, who showed her lingerie pieces to the store s dress buyer. Neiman s will test a line of printed spring dresses, which wholesale for $125 to $200, in 14 doors. (Meanwhile, Saks Fifth Avenue will carry her scarves, wholesaling from $55 to $95.) However, Li-Oshrin s rtw offerings go back to early The blouses, shirtdresses and trenches stemmed from her colorful hand-painted silk garments that already lent themselves to nights out on the town. Shannon Olson and Crystal Kiteveles, the design duo behind Donna L oren, also made a formal move based on the crossover appeal of their intimates. We realized a lot of our customers were taking our corset tops, bustiers and camis and wearing them out to clubs, explains Olson. And we wanted to give them more of an option to choose from. To wit, a similar mood links the two lines, with the sportswear collection wholesaling from $22 to $49. We re going with the same themes, a lot of the same motifs and the same details with laces and meshes, Olson adds. But we re incorporating different fabrics, or showing a different neckline. For many lingerie designers, a sportswear collection is merely a stone s throw from their innerwear origins. Consider them crossover garments that have, well, finally crossed into new territory. Case in point: Little Joe by Gail Elliott s new line of easy, relaxed cotton peasant tops and printed silk dresses priced at wholesale from $61 to $128 and available in Henri Bendel s apparel department which have a strong resemblance to Elliott s flirty camis and slips. She s even using the same production factory for both collections. The line s a little bit more structured now, the former model says. I m using zips, for instance, and adding things like little cap sleeves. You probably wouldn t wear those to bed that s probably the only difference. That brings us back to Lippes. Will customers recognize the original adam+eve identity in his new collection, which wholesales from $75 to $450? There is a sense of cleanness, but no, he says. When I started this company, the idea was that the basis of one s wardrobe today is the T-shirt. The idea was to create the most perfect underpinning and from there to grow it into a full lifestyle collection. That was always the intention. And according to Roopal Patel, women s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman, Adam always had a bigger plan in mind, she says. Ready-to-wear is in his blood. That s not to say that Lippes will reject what he started out with at adam+eve; as with the other designers, he will continue to do innerwear. The challenge, according to Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director of Barneys New York, is for designers to maintain their brand s image, while still growing the business and avoiding the all-too-easy underwear designer typecast. If you re strong enough to be a successful lingerie designer and branch out, she says, you still have to stay strong in lingerie while gradually building your strength in the rtw. Take designer Jean Yu, for example, who s best known for her collection of feminine, fragile intimates, which she launched four years ago. She owns 37=1, a boutique on Crosby Street in SoHo, where she also sells similarly delicate evening gowns and dresses. In 2004, she expanded her rtw line with a number of wholesale accounts, including Maxfield in Los Angeles, Jeffreys New York and Linda Dresner in New York, after her black-and-white striped silk chiffon gown landed on Gwen Stefani on the April cover of Vogue. You can t ignore that, Yu says. I wasn t really eager to [grow] the rtw line at that particular time, but, you know, [the cover s impact] has a shelf life. Two weeks ago, the designer scored an even greater fashion win when Hilary Swank wore Yu s black micro matte jersey halter dress to the Golden Globes. Despite these coups, some retailers and press have found Yu extremely difficult to work with. She makes no apology, and calls herself particular. It s reflected in the lingerie I do. I m that way with everything, she says, even with a pencil. Elizabeth Kanfer, Saks Fifth Avenue s market director for accessories and lingerie, says creative wanderlust is inevitable, and simply a natural development for designers. With a smaller brand, designers need to be able to make their line as diverse as possible, Kanfer says. So if the retail spectrum changes, she ll have more assortments to offer. Even a heavyweight like Josie Natori has stepped into other markets. She flirted with high-end Donna L oren s T-shirt with Ubi s jeans. PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; MODEL: SARAH PARR/SVM; HAIR BY ALEX DIZON/ARTISTS MANAGEMENT; MAKEUP BY JENNA MENARD/JUMP; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN
5 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 1, WWD.COM Araks cotton gauze shirt with DKNY s jeans. Little Joe by Gail Elliott s silk peasant blouse with DKNY s jeans. Adam+eve s rabbit and quilted taffeta vest, silk chiffon tuxedo shirt and wool trousers. eveningwear in the late Nineties, and exotic-skinned handbags, from 2001 to But both collections folded. I lacked the infrastructure at the time, Natori says, adding that she plans to launch a home collection this fall through a licensing agreement with JLA Home. Innerwear designers do have to overcome difficulties unfamiliar to their rtw peers who are expanding into other markets. It s easier to do it the reverse, from already being a brand to adding lingerie to your repertoire, because you ve already made a statement of who you are, says Gilhart. Certainly, the lifestyle element inherent in a larger collection can help and, as Patel notes, the idea of rtw is that you can extract elements from it and add them to lingerie. Indeed, such problems arise not just for innerwear designers, but also for those who make any function garment, such as swimwear or bridal gowns. The one oft-mentioned designer when it comes to crossover successes? Vera Wang. If you re a great designer, says Ed Bucciarelli, president and chief executive officer of Henri Bendel, your vision should come through. Venessa Lau
6 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2006 WWD West Academy Award Drama Continued from page one Picture Arts and Sciences for the indie dramedy Junebug and designers won t overlook her, either. No-nonsense-type talents such as Frances McDormand, Katherine Keener and Dame Judi Dench are dark horses in the fashion sweepstakes and none has stylists at least, not at press time. Stylists, fashion publicists and other behind-the-scenes players stepped it up as the nominations were announced at 5:30 a.m. PST. Knightley s stylist, Rachel Zoe, was getting off a red-eye from Los Angeles to New York when she saw her BlackBerry jammed with messages about her client, nominated for best actress for Pride and Prejudice. In Manhattan, stylist Anna Bingemann was just getting home from the airport when the phone began ringing with callers inquiring about her plans for Weisz, who earned a best supporting actress nomination for The Constant Gardner. In Los Angeles, fashion publicist Susan Ashbrook was rushing into the office at 7:30 a.m. to reach her clients, including Lanvin, Escada and Monique Lhuillier and Chopard. And in Milan, movie fan Donatella Versace was considering the possibilities. There are too many beautiful and talented women and let s not forget the men to choose from, Versace said. Indeed, this year s nominated men are a hunky bunch, including George Clooney, Joaquin Phoenix, Heath Ledger, Terrence Howard, Jake Gyllenhaal and Matt Dillon. I would love to dress everyone...but what all these actresses this year have in common is great style, lots of personality and that star quality that makes the red carpet come alive, Versace said. Versace will be back this year. Certainly, from an organizational point of view, the Oscars will be easier to handle this year due to our show week falling earlier in February and the award ceremony moving back by a few days, she said. The Oscars is one of the most glamorous and creative moments for the industry and the quality of movies and talent being what it is this year, I will definitely try to be there. Valentino, too, is a huge Oscar fan. But he had to shelve plans to attend this year when he realized it was the same day as his ready-to-wear presentation in Paris. The house is a staple of the red carpet dressing no fewer than four stars for Golden Globes last month and Valentino already has his sights on a couple of favorites. I would love to dress Keira Knightle y again, especially after the success she registered in Valentino at the Golden Globes, he said. She was considered one of the most elegant of the event. She is talented and I m thrilled that she earned a nomination at such as young age. I also love Reese, especially since she wore a Valentino gown when presenting the Oscars seasons ago, and was dubbed a modern Grace Kelly. His people would do well to call Witherspoon s new stylists, Nina and Clare Hallworth. The in-demand twins were enlisted after the Golden Globes, when Witherspoon wore a Chanel gown that had been shopped that weekend to actresses such as Anne Hathaway, and worn three years earlier to Globes parties by Kirsten Dunst. The Hallworths are obsessive when it comes to the details. Nominated for best actress for Walk the Line, Witherspoon might, indeed, go with Valentino, who created the much-photgraphed and admired black beaded gown she wore to the Oscars in And, Valentino noted, despite the conflict of dates with his show and the show here, We can rely on the expertise of the seamstresses of our Couture atelier. They are busy with orders, but they know how to make space for the stars and for such a special event. Giorgio Armani ushered in Oscar s fashion madness more than two decades ago, and he remains a favorite among Hollywood s elite, partly because of his team here, led by Wanda McDaniel, a Tinseltown insider. A movie buff, Armani didn t hold back on his opinions of the nominations. I am naturally disappointed that Zhang Ziyi was not nominated given her compelling performance in Memoirs of a Geisha. Ziyi also always lights up the red carpet. She topped best-dressed lists in her chartreuse Armani Privé at the Globes. Theron, too, chose Privé for last Sunday s Screen Actor Guild Awards. It would be a pleasure to design a couture dress for her for the Oscars, Armani said. But he may have to get in line. Theron, who is up for best actress for North Country, has gone with Dior for several events, including the Oscars in With her contract with the French house about to end, it s anyone s guess how she may go. But it s likely European, based on to hints dropped Tuesday by her stylist, Lisa Michelle Boyd. And, to her credit, the Beverly Hills-based Boyd has always insisted her star client wear couture. Theron wore Gucci when she won her best actress Oscar in 2004 for Monster. The Italians along with the French Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Lanvin, Balenciaga, Givenchy have increasingly dominated the most important red-carpet events. Sure, the American trio of Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan and Calvin Klein are always represented. But the Europeans have been Keira Knightley in Calvin Klein at the Pride and Prejudice New York premiere. Felicity Huffman in Nicole Miller at the 2006 Screen Actors Guild Awards. Dame Judi Dench at the Mrs. Henderson Presents Los Angeles premiere. Frances McDormand at the 2001 Cannes Film Festival. Michelle Williams in Givenchy Couture at the 2006 Golden Globe Awards.
7 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 1, WWD.COM a Turns to Red Carpet Charlize Theron in Dior Haute Couture by John Galliano at the 2005 Oscars. Reese Witherspoon in Valentino at the 2003 Oscars. Amy Adams in Carolina Herrera at the 2006 SAG Awards. Rachel Weisz in Rochas at the 2006 SAG Awards. Catherine Keener in Oscar de la Renta at the 2006 SAG Awards. PHOTOS: THERON: CARLO ALLEGRI/GETTY IMAGES; KNIGHTLEY: KEITH SMITH; KEENER: FRANK MICELOTTA/GETTY IMAGES; ADAMS: GREGG DEGUIRE/ WIREIMGE; ALL OTHERS: DONATO SARDELLA; DENCH: BARRY KING/WIREIMAGE; MCDORMAND: TONY BARSON/WIREIMAGE winning more actresses, thanks partly to sheer aggressiveness. The European issue hasn t gone unnoticed among American designers. Monique Lhuillier said she s aware of the trend. But another challenge for a fledgling, independent company of Lhuillier s size is the increasing number of actresses who are committing to designers via contracts, ad campaigns or other financial ties to wear gowns to select events. It s becoming harder to place your product, said the Beverly Hills designer, who has dressed Witherspoon, Theron and Huffman for awards shows. By the time awards season kicks off in January, she has already lobbied Oscar-worthy actresses about dressing them for the red carpet. Dealing with this very time consuming undertaking is a trick, since she, like many designers, is busy preparing for fall runway shows. In addition, Lhuillier also gave birth two weeks ago. This year has been a little crazier for me than other years. For the Oscars, Lhuillier is vying to dress four nominees and presenters and has already provided multiple sketches. We ll see how many dresses I actually make, she said. For Weisz, who will be just over seven months pregnant on Oscar Sunday, a custom gown is essential. Weisz s stylist, fellow Brit Anna Bingemann, has already given a heads-up about her client s changing shape to a few designers with whom she s already engaged in discussions. We only approach a very few because so much time goes into creating a dress from scratch, and in this case, it has to be completely custom-made. But echoing others, the hours after the announcements were a time to savor. We ll let today be about the elation of getting nominated, Bingemann said. We can talk about dresses tomorrow. That s Susan Ashbrook s modus operandi, too. Ashbrook, credited with pioneering the fashion publicist agency in Hollywood with her boutique firm Film Fashion, said it s important to let the celebrities enjoy the moment before we besiege them or the agents with calls. Going for newcomers, particularly when a brand is new to the Hollywood game, is something she recommends. For my clients, someone like a Charlize Theron would be a lot tougher to go after, she said. She already has her established designers. She s worked with Lanvin and Monique in the past, but a new designer may not get their foot in the door with her. But that s just the reality of the business. Film Fashion recently added relatively unknown designers such as Georges Chakra, who presents couture in Paris, and footwear and handbag brand Rickard Shah both keen to make headway in Hollywood. She s hoping that sketches sent to Huffman by her client, Kevan Hall, long before the Globes may result in a red-carpet moment. Hall dressed Huffman for the Emmy Awards in September, when she took home the best actress trophy for Desperate Housewives. Huffman has since tried out as many dress styles as designers. Among Huffman s best moments was last month s Globes, when she went with another fledgling brand, Marchesa. The London label has only been around for one Oscar season, but it has already managed to build a red-carpet following of sorts in Hollywood, including Penélope Cruz. Given the caliber of actresses nominated, Keren Craig and codesigner Georgina Chapman said it s tough to single out one actress they would love to dress. Huffman wore Marchesa to the premiere of Transamerica, the indie film for which she garnered the best actress nomination. We adore dressing Felicity, and would love dressing her again, but the nominations have only just come out, Craig said. One of Los Angeles busiest fashion publicists, Marilyn Heston of MHA Media, advises her clients to focus their energies and resources. I think at this point in the game we are dealing with making dresses specifically for someone. Heston was responsible for introducing to Hollywood Elie Saab via Halle Berry, and Roland Mouret on Scarlett Johansson. She hopes to strike again with London s Jonathan Saunders, who she introduced to press and stylists here recently. Heston did the same with British jeweler Stephen Webster last month. And with her jewelry clients, who include H. Stern, she takes a different tack. We are talking to stylists now about their vision, in the hopes they might be inspired by a piece and choose a dress around that. Chopard USA spokeswoman Stephanie Labeille, said the Oscars is a great opportunity for the Swiss-based luxury jeweler. Sometimes I think they [stylists and celebrities] play it safe rather than really express their imagination, but overall they are doing a good job. Stylist Kate Young, who will be dressing Williams, best supporting actress nominee for Brokeback Mountain, along with presenter Hilary Swank, may be among the few stylists who found herself with a bit of breathing room. I want to see the New York shows and couture gowns when they come to New York. These days gowns get photographed so fast, and get worn so fast, that I m already sick of what s out there.
8 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2006 Consumer Confidence at 30-Month High By Vicki M. Young NEW YORK Americans were more optimistic in January, lifting the Consumer Confidence Index to 106.3, up from in December and representing the highest level in more than 30 months. Analysts and economists were expecting a 1.2-point gain to 105. The current level, the third month in a row that the Index has risen, now matches the Index in June The Index comprises two components. The Present Situation Index rose to last month from 120.7, while the Expectations Index slipped to 91.5 from 92.6 in December. The latter is a sign that consumers aren t as optimistic regarding the longer-term outlook. [January s] increase was driven solely by consumers assessment of current economic conditions, especially their more positive view of the job market, said Lynn Franco, director of The Conference Board Consumer Research Center, in a statement. Franco said that, while consumers rate current conditions more favorably than they have in more than four years, the improvement has not translated into greater optimism about the near-term future. In fact, the gap between consumers assessment of current conditions and their expectations remains wide, she added. Stanley Officina, chief executive officer of Ultimate Financial Solutions, observed, On the business side, we see retailers focused on straightening their own internal issues rather than trying to draw in new customers. It means that there s not a lot of Strong Sales Boost Luxottica 4Q Profits NEW YORK As Luxottica Group posted a fourthquarter profit gain of 31.3 percent on net sales that rose 8.1 percent, the company said it expects to deliver 10 percent sales growth this year. In the three months ended Dec. 31, the company earned $101.7 million, or 22 cents a diluted share, versus $77.5 million, or 17 cents, last year. Net sales totaled $1.33 billion compared with $1.23 billion a year ago. In the full year, Luxottica said earnings were up 19.4 percent to $425.9 million, or 94 cents, up from $356.7 million, or 79 cents, last year. Net sales rose 34.3 percent to $5.44 billion. Luxottica chief executive officer Andrea Guerra said, It s been an absolutely magnificent year for us that wasn t planned to go quite this well. He went on to say that the most fantastic area is the growth and consolidation of the Northern American market where we expect to open more than 100 new retail Sunglass Hut stores in Guerra said this year holds good prospects for Luxottica, and we expect good sales from the Dolce & Gabbana license, which has a target turnover for 2006 of [$145 million], and Burberry, [of] which the company assumes license rights in September 2006 and [which] has a target of [$48 million] in its first year of sales. Guerra said the company is focused on China in 2006, after receiving approval to start running the Xueling Optical business from March onward, and China is expected to generate sales of $60 million in Luxottica is looking to expand into other countries this year, including Russia, Turkey, India Korea and Mexico. Though Guerra said there were no plans for any new license acquisitions in 2006, the licenses for Moschino and Byblos will expire this year. By Luisa Zargani MILAN A strong holiday season and growth across all product categories in every region helped Bulgari SpA post a 13.2 percent increase in sales for the fourth quarter ended Dec. 31 to million euros, or $370.5 million. This compares with sales of 275 million euros, or $356.7 million, in the corresponding period a year earlier. Sales for the year rose 10.5 percent to million euros, or $1.14 billion, from million euros, or $1.03 billion. Cur rency conversions were made at average exchange rates for the respective periods. At constant exchange rates, sales would have increased by 12.7 percent in the fourth quarter and by 10.6 percent for the year. Chief executive officer Francesco Trapani said in a phone interview that he was satisfied with the results, which were in line with his expectations. Trapani pointed to the excellent sales during the holiday season, which confirmed the company s forecasts. These figures allow us to be optimistic for the year We expect to further grow the company in terms of sales and profits in the high single-digit range, a growth of about 8 or 9 percent at constant exchange rates, said Trapani. Trapani once again dismissed market speculation that Bulgari may be for sale and reiterated the WWD.COM things going on to get consumers into the stores other than the same old stuff. Jim Rice, an analyst at Susquehanna Financial Group, said consumers may have been confident on the job front last month, but because of the survey s Jan. 24 cutoff date, it may not have reflected current sentiment following the recent announcements from the big automakers and Kraft Foods involving either earnings or layoffs. Sometimes the consumer confidence survey isn t always reflective of what s going on in terms of sales at the stores. I thought it would be more negative. As for the outlook six months from now, some consumers may have a lack of faith in the [federal] government s ability to keep the economy percolating, Rice predicted. Generally, consumers assessments of present-day conditions were more favorable last month than in December. Consumers who said conditions were good rose to 25.8 percent to 24.4 percent, but those who said conditions were bad also increased to 16 percent from 14.9 percent. On the labor front, consumers who said jobs were plentiful rose to 26.9 percent from 23.3 percent, while those who said jobs were hard to get dropped to 20.3 percent from 22.5 percent. Regarding the six-month outlook, consumers were less optimistic. Those expecting business conditions to worsen rose to 10.5 percent from 9.1 percent, while those who thought business conditions will improve dipped to 17.7 percent from 18.4 percent. On the labor front, consumers who expected more jobs to become available in the coming months edged down to 13.6 percent from 14.4 percent in December, the board said. Consumers who expected their incomes to increase in the months ahead also slipped to 19.8 percent from 21.3 percent. Bulgari Sees Robust Growth Carrying Into 2006 company has never received offers, never negotiated a sale and is not interested in selling. In 2005, while accessories showed the most significant growth a 24.1 percent hike compared with 2004 at constant exchange rates all categories showed sales increases: jewelry, Bulgari s largest revenue generator, grew 7.5 percent, watches 4.5 percent and perfumes 18.5 percent. Accessories are increasingly becoming an important category for us, accounting for sales of about 77 million euros [or $91.6 million], said Trapani. At the end of last year, Bulgari opened two stores in Japan, in Osaka and Tokyo s Ginza district, dedicated to accessories. Trapani said the company plans to open three or four other accessories stores in Asia and Europe this year. In addition to leather goods and silk ties and scarves, Trapani said Bulgari has expanded the assortment of silver objects, such as pens, key chains and cuff links. The Assioma watch, launched in September, helped drive sales in the category. Its design is highly unusual, and I believe this unique style helped us hit the mark in a very competitive market, said Trapani. Europe showed signs of recovery with 15.4 percent sales growth. We worked well with local communities and were supported by the tourist flow, said Trapani. Sales in Italy also grew 15 percent. Japan showed 17.4 growth, while sales in the U.S. increased 12.5 percent. In the fourth quarter, watch sales grew 16.5 percent, jewelry 8.2 percent, perfumes 14.8 percent and accessories 11.7 percent. Japan and Europe grew 19.7 percent and 33.6 percent, respectively, with sales in Italy alone rising 8.4 percent. The Middle East showed an increase of 22.2 percent. Sales in the U.S. were in line with the same period in the previous year, up 1.1 percent. Bulgari, however, pointed to a very challenging base of a 21 percent growth in the quarter of the two previous years in America. Valentino to Open First Store in Boston By Katherine Bowers BOSTON Valentino is arriving here in a big way in April with its first Boston store, propelling the city s strong growth in luxury retail. The 3,000-square-foot unit at 47 Newbury Street will be Valentino s seventh in the U.S. It will devote 60 percent of its space to women s ready-to-wear with the balance going to handbags, shoes and other accessories. We think the Boston market represents a little bit of an untapped opportunity for luxury women s wear, said Valentino Inc. president and chief executive officer Graziano de Boni, reflecting on several scouting trips to the city. I kind of sense that the community is becoming a little less New England. The social life is starting to pick up, Barneys is coming in and cool stores like Intermix are doing very well. Fran cesco Trapani De Boni said the company s Valentino business at Neiman Marcus in Copley Place, a short walk from Newbury Street, has been strong enough to merit opening a shop-in-shop there, in addition to the standalone store. The Newbury Street interior will be consistent with the brand s newest door, in Costa Mesa, Calif., which juxtaposes mirrors and pale limestone against dark oakplank shelving. The store is at the intersection of Berkeley and Newbury Streets, next door to an Ermenegildo Zegna boutique and caddy corner to powerhouse specialty retailer Louis Boston. Across Newbury Street, Valentino will face a three-floor Brooks Brothers flagship and a Cartier boutique, which is being remodeled. It will occupy about half the space vacated when an Italian restaurant closed two years ago. There is space for another retail tenant in the Beaux Arts building, with a separate entrance at 43 Newbury. Lisa Saunders, senior vice president and director of leasing for D.L. Saunders, the building s owner, said the company is considering several other luxury retailers for the neighboring space. The top two blocks of New bury Street, which command the city s top rents in excess of $100 per square foot, according to real estate experts are home to Chanel, Burberry, Akris, Cartier, Louis Boston and Max Mara, among others. Valentino is the latest luxury concern to bow in Boston, following Marc Jacobs Newbury Street opening in August. Bar neys New York will open a Boston flagship in March, while a second Neiman Marcus and the area s first Nordstrom will bow to the west, in Natick, Mass., in 2007.
10 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2006 Jo Malone Bows Out of Her Brand By Pete Born NEW YORK Another chapter ended Tuesday in the ongoing brand-building saga at Estée Lauder Cos., when Jo Malone, one of the brightest stars of the indie scene, announced from London that she has decided to step back from the brand that she and her husband, Gary Willcox, sold to Lauder six years ago while continuing to build the business to what industry sources estimate at $75 million in retail sales. After much soul-searching, I believe that this is a good time to make this decision as the brand is in a secure position and I have many other dreams and passions I would like to fulfill, Malone said in a letter of resignation that was circulated Tuesday. Even though Lauder had acquired the business, Malone had remained its creative director and driving force of product development and merchandising. Moreover, Willcox remained at the helm of the home turf U.K. business, as managing director. Global control of the brand remains in the hands of Maureen Case, who, in mid-december, was named president of Lauder s specialty brands, including La Mer and Bobbi Brown Essentials, as well as Malone. Lauder acquired the business in October 1999 for an estimated $10 million to $15 million. The company declined Tuesday to indicate the final buyout price. Every moment of building this special business from the first day we opened our doors through today and all the wonderful moments in between has been a magnificent journey, Malone s letter continued. I want to thank everyone who has helped and encouraged us, and I remain particularly grateful to [Lauder chairman] Leonard and [senior corporate vice president] Evelyn Lauder for their mentorship and friendship. Malone could not be reached for elaboration Tuesday, but Leonard Lauder, reached in New York, described the parting as extremely amiable. Considering that the 42-yearold Malone first started working in the industry in 1983, Lauder sympathized, she really needs some breathing space and for that, I appreciate her decision. He made no further comment. However, it s been known in past years that Malone has faced personal challenges, including publicly acknowledging a successful bout with breast cancer. Sources close to her say she has been in good health for the past two years. Lauder praised the existing team as superb, while noting that the company will hire a new general manager for the brand. He described his feelings about the state of the Malone business as thrilled, a situation buoyed by a 26 percent sales increase last year. The distribution was expanded to Germany and Greece last fall and to Thailand in December, bringing the total number of markets to nine. Malone operates in 112 retail doors worldwide, with 90 of them in the U.S. and Canada. Industry sources estimate the American retail volume at $35 million. When Lauder bought the brand, the American business reportedly was at an embryonic $2 million. Lauder said Malone s departure Jo Malone was not a sudden decision. It was a possibility that has been discussed over the last three years, and this is a logical juncture since it is the end of the buyout period. Lauder underscored the fact that he had campaigned to keep the founders in the company, referring to all the permutations we went through to keep them. While seemingly resigned to the decision, Lauder clearly was not cheered by it, but seems to hold some BEAUTY BEAT hope that one day, the partnership will resume. They may be back with us with Jo Malone or maybe something else. Asked if the couple could go out and start another cosmetics business, Lauder said not under the terms of the company s contract, considering that Lauder bought the name. As an act of friendly closure, Lauder said he plans to travel to London in a couple of weeks to bid the couple farewell. As I described it to Jo, he added, we just finished one chapter in our long relationship, not the book. When asked what he admires in Malone, Lauder said: I like her taste, her ambition and drive, her sense of modernity and I like her personality. Personally, we will miss her, said Ed Burstell, senior vice president and general merchandise manager of Bergdorf Goodman, Malone s first major account in the U.S. We ve enjoyed wonderful successes with the Jo Malone brand in the U.S at Bergdorf Goodman. However, we are totally confident that Estée Lauder will continue to run the brand in an innovative and profitable way. It is difficult to imagine Malone leaving the business. It is in her blood. Her parents had owned their own skin care company, and she entered the scene by performing facials and skin care treatments on private clients using products she developed. Malone opened her 600- square-foot Walton Street store in London in 1995 with Willcox. That store was replaced with a 1,200- square-foot space on Sloane Street in Malone s fragrances which now number 16 have had a foothold in the U.S. market since the late Nineties. Both here and abroad, the trendy Brit has long been known for her unusual fragrance blends her first to market, Nutmeg & Ginger, continues to be a strong seller. Other popular Malone scents include Lime, Basil & Mandarin and Amber & Lavender; she has just launched her first entry into the fruity category, Pomegranate Noir. In the U.S., a 30-ml. bottle retails for $50, while a 100-ml. bottle is $90. Before the Lauder acquisition, Malone s fragrance, skin care and home fragrance stockkeeping units were sold in the U.S. at Bergdorf s and Saks Fifth Avenue, and in Canada at Holt Renfrew; they continue to be available in those doors as well as select Neiman Marcus doors. A little over a year after the Lauder acquisition, in December 2000, the first freestanding Jo Malone retail location opened. It was a 1,200-square-foot space in the Flatiron Building in Manhattan. A second store followed on New York s Upper East Side and, most recently, the third U.S. shop opened at the Wynn Resort in Las Vegas in May. With contributions from Julie Naughton P&G Taps Dayanara Torres NEW YORK Procter & Gamble is sticking with who it knows and has named Dayanara Torres the new face of Clairol Hydrience hair color. Torres, former Miss Universe 1993 (and ex-mrs. Marc Anthony) has been repping P&G beauty brands since her crowning, including Pantene in the Philippines and Vidal Sassoon in Latin America. Her contract with Hydrience will last until 2007 and is estimated to be worth as much as $1.5 million a year, according to industry sources. Torres also is the model for Wal- Mart s new contemporary apparel line Metro 7, a deal inked last year. Hydrience brings Torres into the world of hair color, even though she has been coloring her light brown hair much darker shades for many years. Now, she uses Hydrience #44 Mocha Splash to keep her hair a rich brown, without any brassy red undertones. It is very hard to get a perfect brown. Sometimes when you go for such a dark color it goes red and I don t like red. But with Hydrience, it went to a perfect brown, Torres said. Dayanara Torres wearing Wal-Mart s Metro 7. Torres shot TV advertisements for Hydrience in December, which are scheduled to air in late March. In the commercial, Torres talks about how the hair color brand can help nourish dry, brittle hair. Her contract also includes print and public relations efforts. The mother of two recently moved to Los Angeles from Miami, a change she s very excited about, since being on the West Coast has the potential to boost her budding acting career. But she is scheduled to visit Miami again in the spring for a yet-to-be-announced press event. Nelson Miranda, associate marketing director for P&G/Clairol Retail Haircolor, said in a statement that choosing Torres for the spokeswoman role was easy since she is a role model for women and embodies the qualities of the Hydrience brand. Andrea Nagel By Melanie Kletter WWD.COM Reebok s Fireman Exits As Adidas Deal Finalized NEW YORK Adidas-Salomon AG closed its $3.8 billion takeover of Reebok International on Tuesday, and Reebok s longtime chief executive officer, Paul Fireman, immediately announced his departure from the firm. Reebok shareholders last week approved the takeover by Adidas for $59 a share in cash. The acquisition created the second-largest athletic company now called Adidas Group with combined sales of $11.8 billion. Nike, the biggest athletic firm, had sales of $13.7 billion last year. The Germany-based firm said it expects the deal to boost earnings in the 2007 fiscal year and lead to cost savings of about $150 million by the third year. The combined company will be overseen by Adidas chairman and ceo Herbert Hainer, with three global brand managers reporting to him: Erich Stamminger, president and ceo of the Adidas brand; Paul Harrington, president and ceo of the Reebok brand, and Mark King, president and ceo of Taylor-Made Adidas golf. By combining two of the most respected and wellknown brands in Paul Fireman the worldwide sporting goods industry, the new group will benefit from a more competitive worldwide platform, welldefined and complementary identities, a wider range of products and a stronger presence across teams, athletes, events and leagues, Hainer said in a statement. Adidas said it will give more details about its strategy for Reebok in early April. Company officials have denied speculation that Adidas might be taking Reebok down market to become more of a mass brand. Reebok makes apparel, footwear and accessories under its core Reebok brand and also owns Greg Norman and Rockport as well as The Hockey Co. In addition, Reebok makes product under license for the National Basketball Association, the National Football League and the National Hockey League. But apparel has been a weak spot and Reebok has seen a sales slowdown recently because of uncertainly surrounding the deal, company executives said in a conference call in October. Trading in Reebok s common stock was halted with the close of the deal. John Shanley, analyst with Susquehanna Financial Group, said the Reebok brand is experiencing sales weakness at several retail channels, including Foot Locker, its largest retail account. We believe the brand is likely losing retailer shelf space to Nike s key marquee product lines and several brands that feature wide assortments of Eurostyle products, such as Puma, Diesel and Converse, Shanley wrote in a research report last week. The company s purchase of Reebok could negatively impact Adidas in the long run, especially if Reebok s classic business continues to decline in terms of both consumer demand and retailer interest levels, particularly in the important U.S. marketplace. Reebok reported sales of $3.79 billion last year. The company has been particularly successful in working with musicians and celebrities to build its business and brand identity with young men. Fireman, 61, built Reebok into a sporting goods industry powerhouse after acquiring the North America distribution rights to Reebok in 1979 and buying out the British parent company in He took the company public in He now will be an adviser to the firm. Fireman and his wife, Phyllis, who combined hold 17 percent of outstanding shares in the company, will receive more than $600 million from the sale. Adidas global headquarters will remain in Herzogenaurach, Germany, and its North American offices will stay in Portland, Ore. Taylor-Made Adidas will remain in Carlsbad, Calif., and Reebok s offices are staying in Canton, Mass.
11 MEMO PAD CLERKSON CHECKS OUT: Every lad has to grow up sometime. For Andy Clerkson of Dennis Publishing, that time will come at the end of March, when he steps down from his post as editorial director of the company he s served for 15 years. The occasion for his departure is the birth of his first child, due late February. Clerkson intends to finish out his contract with Dennis, then spend the summer at his home in Montauk, N.Y., with his wife, Caroline, and their newborn, before moving his family back to his native England. It was always our intention once we had the baby to move back to the U.K., Clerkson told WWD Tuesday. We didn t come to America for life. Clerkson plans to work on projects for Dennis over the summer, but once he s in London, he will go into business for himself in a venture he said will be not primarily in publishing. He added, It s definitely time for me to branch out on my own. Certainly there were not many rungs left for him to climb at Dennis. After serving as editor in chief of Stuff s U.K. edition, he arrived in New York in 1999 to take over the U.S. version, beginning with its second issue. He then served as general manager of Stuff, then Maxim, before his promotion to editorial director in January Although Clerkson s exit will create significant cost savings for Dennis he will not be replaced the move was entirely voluntary, said Stephen Colvin, the company s president and chief executive officer. (Despite a report in Monday s WWD suggesting Dennis has been downsizing, the company has actually added about 10 employees, for a total of 285, in the past two years, said Colvin.) He is a great guy, very talented, Colvin said. We will be throwing the biggest leaving party ever for him in March. Jeff Bercovici SOUTH PADRE SQUATTERS: Of the six domain names the Huffington Post owns, only its primary one, huffingtonpost. com, was correctly routing users to the online forum Tuesday. Anyone who typed in THEhuffingtonpost.com, -.net or -.org, or huffingtonpost. net or -.org, didn t find the usual mix of links proclaiming George Clooney Hollywood s New King with a Conscience or tracking Bob Woodruff s medical condition. Instead, they got placid photos of Texas beaches with this offer from SPI Properties: Let us help you own a piece of South Padre Island! Contrary to appearances, SPI, a midsized real estate firm in South Padre, Tex., hadn t found an enterprising way of marketing its vacation homes by traffic-jacking the Huffington Post s overflow. I wish I could say I have the abilities to do that. But I do not, said Wendy Hauschildt, who heads up marketing and design for SPI. Hauschildt correctly guessed the reroute was due to a hosting problem. (Both SPI and the Huffington Post are hosted by the San Antonio- and Uxbridge, U.K.-based company Rackspace, which, on Tuesday, promised to resolve the issue within 48 hours.) Meanwhile, Arianna Huffington, who was once married to a Texan and whose two daughters are half Texan, was more amused than annoyed by the redirect. When asked if she would ever consider buying property in South Padre, Huffington said: Given it s rep as a Spring Break party town absolutely! According to Huffington, the Huffington Post currently is garnering about 20 million page views a month. However, Hauschildt was skeptical of its funneling effects on SPI s Web traffic. We ve had a good rise lately, she said. But we ve also just launched our own STYLEMAX April 1 4, 2006 Fall 2006 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 1, WWD.COM media campaign. Sara James SPIN DEAL NEAR?: The sale of Vibe/Spin Ventures is winding down, and while the fate of Vibe is still murky, Spin may be close to having a new home. According to an industry source, the buyer is likely to be Tom Hartle, owner of San Francisco-based Hartle Media. A second source with close ties to Spin confirmed Hartle Media was a suitor, and added he did not know of any others. Hartle Media publishes two titles: 7x7, a youth-oriented city magazine for Bay Area readers, and California Home & Design, an upscale shelter magazine. The company also acts as the San Francisco sales office for national magazines, and Spin is one of its two current clients. (Popular Mechanics is the other.) Sources said the 550,000-circulation Spin has been losing roughly $3 million, and likely would fetch between $5 million and $10 million for its owners, who include majority partner Freeman Spogli & Co., a private equity firm, as well as Bob Miller and Quincy Jones. Hartle and Jordan, Edmiston Group, which is brokering the deal, did not respond to a request for comment. A Spin spokesman declined comment. J.B. FOUR DAYS THOUSANDS OF APPAREL AND ACCESSORY LINES ONE, CONVENIENT SHOW FLOOR Introducing our vastly expanded contemporary area showcasing the industry's leading resources. This is the place to discover premium denim, young and better contemporary, emerging designers and directional labels that move this industry forward. Arianna Huffington PHOTO BY ANDREW H. WALKER/GETTY IMAGES For discounted hotel and airline rates, log on to or call Mart Travel Services at For more information or to register for STYLEMAX, visit our Web site or call For exhibitor information, please call The Merchandise Mart Chicago
12 12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2006 Fighting Knockoffs by Protect By Liza Casabona NEW YORK Amid all the worries facing a fledgling designer or a new apparel company trying to launch a product or brand, legal considerations in regard to protecting intellectual property often get lost in the shuffle. Intellectual property of a company or designer, which is the exclusive rights to its brand trademark and original designs, will be at the core of its business for as long as it operates. So protecting those rights is paramount in protecting the business. WWD created a fictitious handbag to show what design elements could be protected and how much it would cost. WWD found that the price tag for protecting our intellectual property could be as high as $20,000. And for worldwide trademark registration, the cost could be in the millions [see related story]. But without protections in place for intellectual property rights, a company or designer becomes a pig in a poke, legal sources said. Essentially, you get what you pay for. We price for the new designers because their initial concern is obviously that they created a great design. They do realize they ought to protect it in some fashion, but their start-up budget is always a concern because they d rather invest in start-up product, explained Brian Brokate, partner, Gibney, Anthony & Flaherty LLP. Protecting intellectual property has been a hot topic over the past few years. Sources estimate that the counterfeit goods market is a $450 billion, global business. And increasingly, counterfeiters are leveraging technology in their activities. Questions were recently raised about IMG s decision to broadcast runway shows during Fashion Week on the Internet. When asked if this would encourage apparel counterfeiters, Fern Mallis, executive director of 7th on Sixth and vice president of IMG, said Tuesday, I think that that s not an issue anymore. With media being so fast now... people can get on Web sites and see collections instantly. [Broadcasting the show] is really about the entertainment value and the energy and buzz of it. Meanwhile, an event scheduled today is aimed at keeping attention on counterfeiting issues. The second annual Harper s Bazaar Anticounterfeiting Summit 2006, sponsored by Harper s Bazaar in partnership with Kirkland & Ellis LLP, will take place at The Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Manhattan. Michael Bloomberg, Mayor of the Coty of New York is the keynote speaker. The agenda for the event includes a presentation about protecting brand integrity by strategizing on when and how to stop fakes, and a panel discussion with a number of counterfeiting experts. Experts say that before a company can prosecute sales of counterfeit versions of its products it must have legal protections and registrations in place on which to build its case. For fledgling brands faced with high start-up costs, the prospect can be daunting, but it is crucial to square away legal protections at the beginning, legal sources said. Intellectual property is one of the critical tools in the global marketplace. The fact of the matter is that so much is spent on acquiring it and so much is spent on protecting it, but so little is spent on putting together a strategic plan. You can waste a ton of money, said Harley Lewin, chairman, trademarks and global brand strategies of the intellectual property group of Greenberg Traurig LLP, New York. Brand protection strategies need to be in a defensive and an offensive position, legal sources said. Protecting yourself against getting sued should be imperative for a new company. The first thing I do [for a client] is reduce the risk of them getting sued. That s more important, said Jane Shay Wald, partner and chairwoman of the trademark practice group Irell & Manella LLP, based in Los Angeles. Not getting sued is more important if you don t have a lot of money. Trademarks, copyrights, design patents, utility patents and trade secrets are the five kinds of intellectual property protection available to a company. Of those, some are more applicable for apparel and accessories firms than others. Focusing resources on selecting a trademark that is free for use and protecting that should be a priority. Patent protection only lasts 20 years in the United States, and copyright protection lasts almost 100, depending on when it was filed. Trademark protection is forever, as long as you are using it, it keeps right on plugging, said Marya Yee, partner and member, Donovan & Yee LLP, New York. To cover all one s bases in filing and registering a trademark a search must be done of the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office s database of registered marks and a full search of trademarks being used must be done. The USPTO s database only covers federal registrations, and a full search covers both federal and state registrations and common law trademarks, as well. In the United States and most other countries in the world, trademark rights flow from use, not from registration, said Lewin. A full search looks at everything from newspaper articles to business listings to determine if a trademark is available. It is important that a designer establishes a trademark to protect its own brand image, sources said, but also to ensure that it is not infringing on an existing mark for which it might get sued. A layperson can do what is called a knock out search using the USPTO Web site, said Steve Gursky, partner with New York-based Dreier LLP. A knock out search can establish whether a trademark is not available by establishing very quickly what is registered. After that a full search is needed, which can be difficult to accomplish and interpret without the assistance of a trademark lawyer. WWD created this handbag to determine the investment needed in protecting a brand. It is possible for a company to file both trademark and copyright applications inhouse, said Barbara Kolsun, senior vice president and general counsel for Seven For All Mankind. Both the USPTO and the U.S. Copyright Office Web sites are user-friendly and an initial search to clear a trademark can be done relatively easily. If there is no in-house capacity to do the searches, or if problems are encountered, that is the time to seek reasonably priced outside counsel s assistance, Kolsun said. Hiring a law firm to do a full trademark search results in an official opinion letter about the status of that specific mark, said Yee. The benefits of an opinion letter are numerous, but most importantly it shows that a company was operating in good faith, with no intention of willful infringement on someone else s trademark or trying to trade on somebody else s good will and reputation, if they are sued, she said. What you end up with in those circumstances is some protection from at least the worst case of liability that might be brought against you. Small companies will sometimes ask if they can cut corners, said Wald, but if you are planning to come out with a brand you need to do a good search because you can t afford to be enjoined or have your goods stopped at the border for infringing on someone else s trademark. You are viewed as an infringer regardless of whether or not you understood what you were doing, she said. Trademark laws aren t set up for dabblers, the law presumes that you have a business, Wald added. Young companies and new brands can easily get caught up in the immediate needs of launching a brand, such as financing, sourcing and building a customer base. But industry lawyers say it s critical to look ahead, to anticipate the brand s position while putting in place legal protections before the brand is knocked off. The one thing you don t want to do is play catch-up. Catch-up means it s going to cost you an absolute fortune, if you can do it at all, because there are some rights that are lost forever, Lewin said. While the legal up-front costs might seem overwhelming, the legal costs to take a case to court is where the real expense comes in, said Kolsun. Litigation is so expensive; I hate litigation, it makes my heart heavy, she said. No matter how you cut it, if someone sues, you need to hire the best lawyer possible, and those lawyers are expensive. The cost of a trademark litigation can vary from tens of thousands to tens of millions, said Lewin. A straightforward trademark litigation case in the U.S. can be done for $50,000, he said. But a full-fledged, knockdown, drag-out litigation is a milliondollar fight. If you have a trademark in your pocket, 99 percent of the time you don t have a fight. But you do have to take steps to threaten, and you do have to push people away from your mark. In looking to register trademarks internationally, there are additional considerations. With the exception of the European Union, each country requires it s own individual trademark registration, with all the attendant fees and searches. Targeting resources to those countries where one needs the most protection is imperative, sources said. In particular, companies need to look for protection in countries where they manufacture, distribute and shop goods or those countries they plan to use in the future. With contributions from Ross Tucker ILLUSTRATION BY DAVID HORII
13 13 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2006 WWD.COM ting a Brand NEW YORK WWD CREATED A FICTITIOUS HANDBAG WITH several trademark designs so attorneys could put a price tag on protecting the intellectual property. Conservative estimates of the total cost to protect every element that might potentially qualify (such as the WWD trademark, W trademark, fabric copyright, design patent on bag shape, utility patent on clasp, etc.) put the grand total at $10,200. But if problems arise, or the process is complicated by a legal hurdle, that figure could rise as high as $19,500. Regarding worldwide trademark registration, the price tag could reach $3 million. Surprisingly, WWD found that several of the design elements would be difficult to protect under current laws. It s also important to note that there are two factors in determining the cost of protecting an item. There s the cost of registrations with government organizations, as well as the legal fees associated with getting help to file those registrations. Legal fees vary from firm to firm. Some industry sources estimate that in New York and Los Angeles, attorney fees range from $600 to $700 an hour. That rate differs according to the size of the law firm, the services offered and its specific fee structure. Liza Casabona and Ross Tucker WWD Logo: Trademark Cost: $1,000 to $2,000 per trademark Trademark registration is very important for a new brand. Acronyms like WWD can be difficult to register, while the easiest to obtain are arbitrary marks such as made-up words. Verizon is a prime example. Getting permission to use a trademark and register it hinges on an interpretation of confusing similarity, the ability to tell the difference between two items when you see them separately. The process of investigating a trademark often resembles a mini litigation, which is why it often pays to hire a lawyer. WWD Fabric: Copyright Cost: $200 to $800 Copyrights are the cheapest and easiest protection to apply for because there is no search done, but they are difficult to obtain for apparel. To date, legal and judicial interpretations of copyright laws have not generally been extended to apparel designs. Fabric designs are sometimes eligible for copyright protections if the pattern is a recognizably unique piece of artwork, a hand-painted fabric or a reproduction of an original painting, for example. The WWD patterned fabric would be difficult to get approved for a copyright, lawyers said. Overall Look of Bag/W shape: Design Patent Cost: $2,000 to $5,000 Design patents apply to the overall shape and look of an item. Patents are difficult to obtain and take much more time and money than copyright or trademark applications. It is possible that the W shape of this bag could be protectable by a design patent, but unlikely, according to trademark lawyers. Design patents cover the ornamental features of something that is otherwise a utilitarian item. Both kinds of patent protection are difficult to get because the item must be proven to be completely unique compared with anything that has come before it. Clasp of bag: Utility Patent Cost: $6,000 to $10,000 A utility patent could be applied to the catch of the handbag if a demonstrably new mechanism were being used. Patents are expensive and expire more quickly than copyrights or trademarks and require renewal fees if the owner seeks to extend them. Utility patents apply only to utilitarian items and nothing ornamental qualifies. Typical Fee Schedule Trademark Filing fee: $375 per trademark, per class of goods on paper, $325 if filed electronically (additional fees are attached to any documents filed after registration, as well). Search fee: Preliminary, $150 to $300. Search fee: Full: $400 to $500, double for expedited searches. Copyright Filing fee: $30 to the U.S. Copyright Office. Design Patent Filing fee: $200 Search fee: $100 Examination fee: $130 Utility Patent Filing fee: $300 Search fee: $500 Examination fee: $200 Shanghai s Xiangyang Market. China Targets Counterfeit Market By Lisa Movius SHANGHAI The Shanghai government said early last month that the Xiangyang Market, Shanghai s busiest and most notorious distribution area for counterfeit goods, would be shut down in a move to combat piracy and improve the city s reputation. A report by the state-run Xinhua Newswire quoted Shanghai Vice Mayor Zhou Tai Tong as saying the popular market would be abolished, rather than moved, as previously planned. The announcement came on the heels of successful lawsuits by luxury brands against vendors at Beijing s main fake market, Silk Alley, and by Starbucks against a local competitor using a similar logo and the same Chinese name. It has been welcomed as a much-overdue tough stance against the rampant piracy of fashion and luxury brands in China. But the market s closure, whenever it happens, is more symbolic than substantive. Shopkeepers at the market offered mixed accounts of their prospects, but confirmed this market at least was probably closing, albeit not until May or June. It is being closed, not moved, confirmed Wu Weiyun, owner of a stall selling counterfeit Prada and Coach bags and wallets. However, as one market closes, another opens. I ll move to the new market in Longhua in June, said Wu. Several vendors identified Longhua, in the far southwest of the city and famous for its temple and as the site where much of the movie Empire of the Sun was filmed, as the unofficial successor to the Xiangyang Market. I heard we re being shut down in May, volunteered a woman selling fake Tiffany jewelry, complete with signature eggshell blue bag. I guess we ll move to Longhua then. Another vendor, who sells fake brand knives, pens, bags and suitcases, said he will move to Xujiahui, where there is a massive underground youth apparel market connected to the subway. It and a similar market under People s Square here sell mostly trendy, unbranded clothing that is far cheaper than the counterfeit brands, which are now only about 10 to 20 percent of the merchandise at those markets. About 70 percent of the goods sold at Xiangyang Market are counterfeits of international brands, primarily purses and apparel but also jewelry, luggage, perfume, pens and Swiss Army knives. The handful of legal products offered is limited to T-shirts and low-quality chinoiserie for tourists. Along with the public stalls, where pirated goods are boldly displayed, a number of dealers have set up makeshift showrooms in nearby apartments. They accost passersby with calls of, Hello watch shoes ladies bags looka looka, while waving laminated papers displaying a selection of their goods. The dealers calls serve as a good indicator of which brands have the most cachet in the city. Hello Louis Vuitton Prada remains the most common, while fake Chloé bags have proliferated rapidly since the brand s China launch in November. The increasingly numerous and aggressive dealers have become a major public nuisance, turning the surrounding four blocks filled with legitimate stores and restaurants into a daunting gauntlet for pedestrians. Vendors of counterfeit goods, from apparel to DVDs, are mostly rural migrants and laid-off workers from state-owned factories. Without education, skills or opportunities, they say, selling fakes offers one of the few alternatives to construction work, sweatshops or the sex trade. The announcement the city government plans to shut down Xiangyang Market was concurrent with news that Hong Kong developer Sun Hung Kai Properties was in final talks to purchase the market s site from current owner Maxdo Group. According to Shanghai Daily, Sun Hung Kai intends to build a hotel, office and retail space on the site. The timing of the announcement of plans to close the market suggests the government is seeking to claim credit for a closure that would happen anyway. Even if it were a deliberate move against piracy, the vendors will simply migrate to other markets, old and new, regardless of whether any one market is officially designated as a successor. Xiangyang Market, occupying a half block of prime downtown real estate between Huaihai Middle Road and Xiangyang and Shaanxi South Roads, was from its inception in 2000 planned as temporary. For the past several years, there was speculation the market would be eventually moved to the Pudong area; along with Longhua, recent reports also suggest a possible move to Hongqiao, in the western part of the city. The current site was itself a relocation of Huating Market, located a few blocks west along Huaihai Road on Huating Road, which was moved due to overcrowding on the narrow streets and complaints from residents in the upscale neighborhood. Xiangyang Market s eventual closure will likely funnel distributors of the more profitable counterfeits into those and similar markets, as well as other areas in the city with already high concentrations of fakes. Small-scale operators spreading their wares on sidewalks and in subway stations have also been proliferating during the past six months and are also likely to increase. Past antipiracy measures, while lauded by the China offices of major luxury brands, have seen similar tactics to the Shanghai market. The Beijing government gained huge publicity from bulldozing the stalls at that city s counterfeit market, but the move actually was to clear the space for redevelopment. The counterfeiters simply moved to a more modern building farther down the road. Meanwhile, last year s campaign in Shanghai to post antipiracy admonitions and an increased police presence around the Xiangyang Market simply means the brisk business transpires under ubiquitous signs about striking the net of selling counterfeit goods. PHOTO BY LISA MOVIUS
14 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2006 London Fog Rolls In for Fall By Marc Karimzadeh NEW YORK London Fog executives took a bold step when they decided the outerwear brand needed a makeover. Rather than slowly introducing a new look into the collection and aiming for a smooth transition, they pulled London Fog merchandise off the market for one year and ended all existing licensing deals or let them expire. We thought we just wanted to let the market clear itself, so there s no confusion what the brand was and what it is becoming, said David Didio, president of London Fog. It also gave us a year to work on new developments. The London Fog makeover revolves around the launch of sportswear this fall, and there are plans for a push into accessories and retail. London Fog has the potential to be a $1 billion brand, Didio said. The London Fog Group had sales of $296 million, including a home furnishings category and performance outerwear under different labels. The brand quietly reintroduced a sportswear collection for A look from spring, which Didio said was not intended for wholesale. It is London Fog aiming to fully relaunch the collection this fall and will have for fall. a preview for retailers next month. We wanted to create a new fit for London Fog, and the first thing we did was to deconstruct the trench and start again, design director James Thomas said. For the relaunch, Didio and Thomas visited the late founder Izzy Myers son, Jonathan, who owns an archive of looks from the brand s Seventies heyday. They culled the archives to create the sportswear, which is peppered with trenchcoat details. The collection, for instance, includes a double silk satin dress with the back flap echoing those of a trenchcoat, a slinky viscose jersey black dress with coat seaming and a bonded cotton short red trench jacket. It was important from the beginning that we created merchandise that was clean and modern, Thomas said. How do you bring in trenchcoat details without being heavy handed? The clothes should be familiar. As for the future, Didio said: We hope to develop accessories in-house, and then, if and when it gets to be critical mass, we will explore licenses again. In 2008, we targeted freestanding retail and we identified five markets that we would like to roll out stores in. Didio wouldn t elaborate on those markets. For fall, wholesale prices range from $150 to $2,400, and the line targets upscale specialty stores nationwide. The spring capsule collection, meanwhile, will be available on the company s Web site, londonfog.com, which is scheduled to be ready for e-commerce in March. London Fog, which is owned by Greenco and DDJ Capital, features a new blue label with a logo using the same font as the London Underground. Didio anticipates the repositioning will take as long as three years and London Fog will turn a profit in three to five years. We will be starting with the American and European retailers, and from then on roll the brand out to Japan, China, and other parts of Asia, Didio said. Barrett Brings Women s to N.Y. By Sandra Nygaard MILAN Neil Barrett loves New York and he s about to prove it when his first women s runway show bows during fashion week on Tuesday. I ve always wanted to do New York, he said in an interview. Looking at the clothes when they arrived, I knew they were right for New York. You should always be instinctive in life and go with what s natural and it seemed totally natural to show there. The Milan-based British men s wear designer is known primarily for the impeccable tailoring of his suits. Barrett said his last-minute idea to show in New York was a response to the growing demand for his women s clothes. He started offering a handful of extra-extra small men s looks about four years ago, which evolved into a focused collection of women s wear shown by appointment in Milan. Sales have increased 68 percent in the last year. Last season s collection featured about 25 looks and sold more than 15,000 pieces in 165 retailers such as Jeffrey, Barneys New York, Le Bon Marché and Harrods, among others. That s why I knew I had to go for it and give as much attention [to women s] as I give to my men s, he said, adding that bringing the collection to New York was one of the best ways to accomplish this. Milan is overcrowded with brands and it s not the ideal place to show. Made to complement his men s collection while creating its own new story, the expanded women s collection of about 40 looks will include more feminine aspects and fabrications, such as silk-wool evening coats and tuxedo mohair suits. Barrett would not give exact figures on pricing. The New York show will also feature 10 to 12 men s outfits, adapted from the collection he recently showed in Milan. Barrett said that creating clothes for men has been easier because of his identification with the looks. With men, I m designing for myself and imagining myself at different ages with different body shapes I imagine how I would look and how I would want to look in any situation, he said. Designing his feminine and extremely tailored women s collection has been more challenging. It s an extension, but I never knew how to do femininity before because I didn t know how to work around those curves. But now I m really working around them. With an independently owned business generating about 35 million euros in retail sales, or $42.3 million based on current exchange rates, Barrett said women s wear is an important part of his growth strategy. Over two to three years he plans on bringing the women s ready-to-wear collection up to the same size as his men s, extending his recently launched Neil Barrett Indigo collection for women and offering shoes. The designer, who has become a favorite of Jake Gyllenhaal and Brad Pitt, hopes his women s collections will eventually appeal to top Hollywood women such as Kirsten Dunst, Naomi Watts and Julianne Moore. Despite his ambitions and excitement, Barrett said he s not sure he ll be a permanent fixture at New York Fashion Week. I don t want to fall into the necessary routine of having to do one every season. I just want to go with what feels right. PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE Fashion Scoops MR. SMITH GOES TO SEVENTH AVENUE: James Todd Smith, aka LL Cool J, is joining Diddy, Eminem, Nelly, Jay-Z and 50 Cent in the hip-hopper-turned-designer category with a presentation of men s and women s wear scheduled for Feb. 9 during New York Fashion Week. However, Smith s small presentation at Geoffrey Zakarian s restaurant, Country, won t follow in the steps of the theatrical celebrity fashion extravaganzas of the past few seasons, namely those of Jennifer Lopez and Gwen Stefani. This is an extension of the normal side of me, said Smith. It s an extension of Todd Smith who is more of a normal guy, more of a guy-next-door. The line, called Todd Smith, isn t, in fact, a license. Smith partnered with fashion executives Ronald and William Gallo to form a company called Standard Fashion. He and Ronald Gallo are named as co-managing directors. Smith described great meetings with buyers from Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman about the line, which is entirely produced in Italy. I want to stress that this line is not about me, Smith said. I want to make it about the clothing. I m trying to keep this thing as separate as I can so that it doesn t have that celebrity vanity thing. I want you to walk into a store not knowing anything about LL Cool J and see one of my garments and say, I really like this Todd Smith. I d like to buy this for my fiancée. RAMPLING ON: Charlotte Rampling, Jeanne Moreau and Pierre Bergé with Catherine Deneuve and, naturally, Karl Lagerfeld were among Hedi Slimane s front-row fans at Dior s men s show on Tuesday night. Sensational for its staging, restraint and civility, Slimane s collection for Dior was clearly everyone s favorite of the season. As the show ended with a string trio performing on a front balcony, Slimane sent out a parade of men in tails underscoring the overriding formal trend of this men s wear season and certainly of his own message. Most women would gladly give up half (or more) of their body weight to squeeze into what must be the skinniest clothes ever. For the show, however, Rampling left her Dior men s wear at home and showed up, looking spectacular, in a Stella McCartney camel coat over a Yohji Yamamoto jacket and Jil Sander pants. Why was she here? Because of him, of course. He just knows how to blend those boundaries, Rampling declared of Slimane. MOURET S LOW PROFILE: Roland Mouret is bidding a quiet farewell to the fashion world at least for now. Mouret will not be staging a catwalk show during New York Fashion Week, a spokesman for the designer told WWD. Instead, he ll be conducting one-on-one appointments both for key press and buyers. The collection will be in New York for appointments starting on Feb. 6, he added. The spokesman declined further comment on the company s decision. The fall 2006 collection will be Mouret s last for the London-based company he built with backers Andre and Sharai Meyers. Mouret has been showing in New York since 2003, and the U.S. is currently his fastest-growing market. Sales in the region now account for nearly 40 percent of the company s global turnover. In October, Mouret and the Meyers announced they were parting ways due to differences of managerial opinion. Mouret has so far declined to comment on his plans, although industry sources say he has talked with a number of fashion houses, among them Emanuel Ungaro. EXPRESS YOURSELF: Which wife of a fashion industry heavyweight was spotted on the Lower East Side over the weekend, boogying to Madonna and brandishing a purple boa around her neck? Coco Kopelman, wife of Chanel vice chairman Arie Kopelman, took to the dance floor at Element last Saturday night to help celebrate the birthday of party planner Bronson van Wyck. Shimmying alongside them were other power players including Andrew Rosen, Dylan Lauren, Alexandra Kerry, Amanda Brooks, Moby, Lela Rose, Celerie Kemble, Samantha Boardman and Aby Rosen. Guests dressed according to the evening s Foxy F---ing Fabulous Mac Daddy Disco Ho theme, donning their very best jumpsuits and gold chains, but no one was able to outdo the host. Close to 11 p.m., van Wyck strutted onstage with male backup WWD.COM A detail on a Pamella Roland gown for spring. dancers wearing military uniforms in tow and performed Madonna s 1983 hit Holiday to rousing applause which turned into catcalls once the singer and dancers tore their shirts off. After the sexy show, the Arkansas native made a heartfelt speech thanking his parents (who were there happily witnessing it all) for their support. As the night wore on, confetti rained down on partygoers and hunky waiters passed around mini hamburgers to help soak up the alcohol that was in the Jell-O shots being served at the door. Holiday, indeed. BEYOND THE TENTS: After its debut during New York s spring 2006 collections, Plitzs Fashion Marketing returns as a sideshow to Bryant Park s three-ring circus. Last season, the Manhattan-based firm produced eight days of emerging designers shows, which creative director Zoii Douglas describes as a stepping stone to Bryant Park. Collections run the gamut from Alvertis Alexander s Alve Couture, which opens the nine-day series of 20 shows tonight at 145 Madison Avenue, to urban with Gold Teeth Designs by Horace Carter to the strange: Hair De Mention Salon s collection of clothing made from hair. IN FOCUS: Since signing on as the major sponsor of New York Fashion Week in February 2004, Olympus has deployed a small army of photographers to capture the action on the runways, in the audience and behind the scenes at the semi-annual shows. The images were posted daily on the Olympus Great Wall of Photography in the lobby of the Bryant Park tents. Olympus recently turned over its archives to Saks Fifth Avenue, which will feature scenes from the tents in 17 of its Fifth Avenue windows during the first two weeks of February, which coincides with fashion week. We re using the images and cropping them in interesting ways and blowing them up on panels, said Tim Wisgerhof, Saks window director. They are these huge monoliths of color abstracted. There s a photo of a model holding M&Ms and shots of makeup, shoes, hemlines, bracelets and people clapping. It s fun to use them in an unexpected way. The images won t be a literal representation of the fashion in the windows. It s all about the dress, said Wisgerhof. The dress is one of the huge themes for spring. Elizabeth Lippman, Gerardo Somoza, Don Ashby and Just Loomis are among the photographers whose work will be represented. This is the first time the work is being displayed outside the tents. SIENNA S FASHION SENSE: Sienna Miller wasn t even at last week s Sundance Festival, but her style was everywhere. Kitson s Fraser Ross set up shop in Marquee s gift lounge at the festival, where he brought his latest retail phenomenon, Livs boots. Designer Diana FitzGerald, the lithe French woman who created the crocheted boots being sported by Miller weeks before Sundance, barely had to do anything to sell her product. Nor did representatives for Kooba, who were giving out their popular Sienna bag. And Intermix had trouble keeping its LaRok and Vince staples on shelves, all items that looked as though they could be worn by the blonde It Girl herself. Maybe Miller should be getting a piece of the action for all her hard work. PHOTO BY DON ASHBY
15 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 1, Our growing Los Angeles based company which focuses on the Contemporary women s and men s markets is looking for experienced and energetic people to fill the following new positions. RETAIL SALES DIRECTOR 3 years experience minimum managing multiple retail locations including startup. Bachelors degree, strong retail sales and inventory analytical skills required. RETAIL MANAGEMENT / SALES LAS VEGAS RETAIL LOCATION Responsible, committed, and highly energetic retail professionals with a developed sense of contemporary style. Candidates with luxury goods experience and a strong customer following preferred. PRODUCTION PLANNING MANAGER Strong operational & mfg. skills to oversee production planning. Must have 4+ yrs management exp in better manufacturing, background in planning, allocations, technical knowledge and garment dye experience a plus, managing the supply, planning and allocation of the production fabrics. Order replenishment fabrics and lead-time sensitive material and addressing any potential excess situations. Bachelors Degree Required. PATTERN MAKER and SAMPLE SEWER 5 yrs experience minimum. Knowledgeable and technical in high-end fabrics, knits and wovens, garment construction, detailed finishing and garment dye. TRIM BUYER 3 years experience, responsible for total trim needs from design to pre-production to production. Excellent compensation and benefits package available Please resume with salary history to FASHION DIRECTOR Overview of Position: Research and develop seasonal fashion direction for the utilization and execution of assortment planning, store-line presentation, visual merchandising, advertising, and corporate product development. Preferred areas of expertise are intimate apparel, jewelry, and accessories. Work with the merchandising organizations on vendor purchases to ensure timely fashion and color direction/registration. Work with merchant organizations on finding new resources to complement our current resource structure/ assortments. Work with merchandising and advertising organizations on seasonal advertising to include: ROP, direct mail, and all major promotional vehicles. Work with Special Events department on key fashion events to include: Fund-raising, Show and segment concepts/ themes music, models, etc. Skills Summary: Strong organizational skills. Strong written and oral skills. Strong interpersonal skills. Ability to work with a myriad of people in various areas of the store. Creative individual that has the ability to work/look outside the box, without losing sight of the box. Strong product knowledge, dependent on FOB responsibility. Understanding of product development and construction, a plus. Leadership skills as each individual in the fashion office needs to have a command of the business they are representing. Ability to travel extensively. (Domestic only) Salary is commensurate with relevant experience. Macy s is an EOE, committed to a diverse and inclusivework environment. Please visit macysjobs.com to apply or fax resumes to Located in West Hollywood, Da-Nang is one of the fastest growing multi line lifestyle wear companies in California. Ifyoudream of working in an exotic and creative environment, we are always eager to add new talent to our team. We are currently looking to satisfy the following positions for new divisions: DESIGNER Minimum 5 years experience. ASSISTANT DESIGNER Minimum 2 years experience. Fluent on MAC platform. GRAPHIC DESIGNER Minimum 2 years experience in print design. Excellent knowledge of Illustrator, Photoshop, QuarkXpress, Microsoft Office on MAC platform. Fax resumes to ATTN: FARIMAH Customer Service - Linea Pelle Inc A leading belt co. seeks individual with strong customer service skills. Duties include: Data Entry, answering phones, filing, faxes, assisting customer and other office duties. Will work closely with shipping department. At least 2 years experience. Computer literate, knowledge of aims a plus. Must be detail oriented, a team player and able to multi task. Competitive salary Fax resume: PRODUCTION MANAGER Seeking a highly motivated, detail oriented, organized individual to manage development and production for an LA based men sand women sfashion /sportswear brand. Initiate and monitor all phases of apparel and accessories production. Garment construction and fabric knowledge required. Strong leadership skills to oversee a team and create/maintain schedules and deadlines. Prior experience with communicating overseas is a must. Please fax resume to: (323) or Want to work for a fast growing and upcoming company? Restricted Footwear needs more help in the following areas: Sales Rep---West Coast, Midwest: Must have at least 3 years experience in sales and a strong background in Jr s Contemporary Fashion. Linebuilder/Designer: Must have successful history within Jr s Contemporary Industry. Interested applicants please Fax or resume to: or LA office of Sportswear/Childrenswear manufacturer group is seeking: National Sales Manager/ Sales Executive Min. 5 yrs exp & strong relationships with major retail. Excellent communication skills & self-motivation & team working. Production Coordinator Min. 3 years in apparel mfg experience. Strong organizational ability. PC knowledge and can work independently. Please Resume and expected salary to MENS DESIGNER We are looking for an experienced Mens Denim Designer. Applicants should have a minimum of 5 years in Mens Denim, and be capable of developing and producing a line from start to finish. Knowledge of Far Eastern sourcing a plus. Salary and benefits package negotiable for qualified applicants. Fax resumes in confidence to: (323) W Y E T H B Y T O D D M A G I L L LOS ANGELES - PATTERNMAKER Fast growing high-end women s contemporary collection seeks Patternmaker. Minimum 5 yrs. experience on Gerber. Must have strong sense of design. Ability to make first through production patterns a must. Communication skills with in-house sample sewers/cutting. Salary plus benefits. Please fax resume, attn. HR Dept. (310) or
16 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2006 Seamstress/Tailor Samples and small production. Minimum 3 yrs. experience in designer suits/gowns. Competitive salary + benefits. Pattern Maker 1st through production, grading. Excellent sewing/fitting skills necessary. Minimum 3 yrs. experience in designer suits/gowns. Competitive salary + benefits. Fax or resumé / Los Angeles Metropolitan Area Production Asst Junior Co. seeks Production Assistant with minimum 2 yrs experience in knitwear production. Must oversee all stages of production. Organization, knowledge of garment construction, and good communication skills a must. Send resume to Fax: or PATTERNMAKER Bra Foundation Patternmaker Los Angeles - Full Time Molding knowledge, strong communication skills. Hourly, excellent pay. Call Maritza (213) Production Assistant - Linea Pelle Inc High end belt co. seeking organized, detail oriented individual for LA Headquarter to work closely with production department and overseas factories. Must have strong communication skills, detail oriented, a team player, able to multi task. Experience required. Competitive Salary. Fax resume: Sample / Pattern Maker Sewing Pro Los Angeles Based Very exclusive Lingerie Co. seeks an exp d. sewing professional to design, cut, and sew. F/T or P/T. Call: or Fax: Sales Reps Wanted! Fast growing Italian Brand of ladies footwear is looking for sales reps for the West Coast and Mid-West territories. Must be well organized and have 2 yrs selling exp. as well as established contacts with chain stores. Fax or resume to: or HORIZON TEXTILES Sales position - Knit Fabrics domestic and import. Please call Bobby at or Exceptional Road/Show Reps Excellent Oppty Better jewelry / bags / belts lines seeks reps. w/estb d contacts - majors & specialty. 3 years exp in building accessories accouts. High Commission Principals Only Cover letter w/ resume to EURO-COMFORT PRATIK-Quality made in Portugal. 5th successful season in U.S. and growing. Seeking Independent Rep for West Coast. See us at Sands booth # 1154 L.A. & SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA FABRIC SALES REPS Growing East Coast knit fabric converter/jobber working with elastic fabrics for the sportswear, activewear, swimwear, cyclewear & costume markets has open territory in LA and Southern CA for the right sales person or sales representative on a high commission basis. Please you resume to: or fax: Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Call CLOTHES-OUT: (937) JOBBER/EXPORTER We buy better goods. All categories, including fabrics. Immediate $$. Please call Pier 22 Designs Full service CAD/Design Studio Receive/Inspect/Count/Pack/Ship Clean & Secure North Jersey Location Piece goods..garments.. It s all good! Perfect for Importers/Jobbers Call Tom at SHANGHAI MFR. Exp d in better / designer evening wear. Samples and productions of any styles. Two thumbs up services. Call Mr. Ping at (212) BROADWAY SHOWROOMS/OFFICES TREBOR MGMT Bob Forman x th-40th St. Showroom-Hot Lofts 900, 1500, 2200, 3500, 9000 Prime Manhattan Scott search- For Space in Garment Center Helmsley-Spear, Inc Search For Space In Garment Center Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee Or Call Paul X 100 SHOWROOM TO SHARE Luxury Fur retailer looking to share Showroom. Prime Manhattan Location Call Norman at: (212) Stitchers Avail. for Work In Alabama. We can sew samples & production; no minimums; ideal for young designers. Contact Brian (205) or Investment Opportunities A NYC leading children s wear distributor is seeking to acquire or develop a strategic alliance with other children s apparel &/or accessories company. We have the expertise, overseas network &operational infra-structure to assure increase profits & efficiency. Contact us to discuss these possibilities: PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Call Sherry PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS Full service shop to the trade. Fine fast work Overseas Rep Wanted Moderate Social Occasion manufacturer specializing in all size ranges seeks individual with ties to large overseas retailers to develop international business. Send details to: LADIES DRESS SHOP FOR SALE High-end custom tailor shop on Madison Ave. Work/showrooms. Long term repeat wealthy clientele. Lost Lease. Huge inventory of European imported fabrics included. CALL: (212) Accessories: (2) Senior Executives, heavily experienced, and connected, in all aspects of Sales, design, sourcing, production and, 30 years experience in Accessory Market, working with all majors. We are looking for a Financially Strong Partner to help us grow an Urban Segment of the Accessory Category. Call: ACCESSORY JOBS *Asst. Merchandiser-2 yrs Exp min. To 42K *Data Entry/EDI Coordinator-1 yrs exp 35K *Designer-Kids Backpacks-Photo& Illus. 70K *Graphic Artist-Kids Licensed Bags To 70K *Graphic Artist-Packaging-W/EXP! To 42K *Import Buyer/Sourcing-Bedding-NJ $120K *Imports/Logistics -2 yrs Exp min. To 42K *Sales-Accessory EXPERIENCE ONLY $$$+ ACCESSORY EXECUTIVES, INC Call for details on (212) resumes: ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE We are seeking an Account Executive for our Periscope - Junior Division for woven tops, jackets, bottoms and related separates. Proven track record with specialty chain stores and department stores. Responsible for identifying opportunities for new business, growth and product presentation. 5+ years of related apparel experience. Please fax your resume along with your salary history to Human Resources at or to: EOE M/F ACCOUNTS RECEIVABLE MGR. Fashion industry mfr. in Secaucus NJ seeks A/R Mgr. to work in credit dept. Must have exp. w/major dept. stores, reconciling and reviewing checks to resolve chargeback issues. Team player, good communication skills, Word & Excel skills a must. BS Degree with accounting background required. Fax resume to w/sal. req attn: WM ACCT EXEC Fast paced Spec Occasion Dress Mfgr seeks a high energy and motivated individual to fill an immediate opening. Computer Skills preferred. Send resume and salary history in confidence to Administrative Asst., Imports 40K Major company needs person to assist with computer and paper transactions. Raskin Executive Search Ed Kret Fax Admin Since 1967 W-I-N-S-T-O-N APPAREL STAFFING DESIGN * SALES * MERCH ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION (212) F: (212) A/E MERCHANDISER $80-$125K Slpwr/Daywear. Womens/Childrens 1-Dept./Spec. 1-Mid/Mass. Full Bnfts Call Laurie or KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS
17 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 1, Client Services Loro Piana, a leader in the manufacturing & distribution of the finest quality textiles, ready to wear & accessories has an outstanding opportunity available in their US wholesale division. The ideal candidate will have a minimum of 2 yrs exp in a luxury retail/ wholesale environment. Responsibilities will include providing internal support for sales team; developing & maintaining relationships with customers; entering orders and assisting in showroom activities. Strong computer skills required. Resume with salary requirement to: Fax APPAREL S TOP PICKS * Missy Sweater Merch Designer $100K+ * Denim Technical Designer $100K+ * Boys Denim/Sportswear Designer $65K * Boys Infant/Toddler Lic Designer $65K * Girls Inf/Tod Lic Charac Artist $55K * Girls Graphic Artist $50K * Asst Tech Designer-Gerber a Must $40K * Junior/Tween CAD Artist $30K * Lingerie/Sleepwear Merch Sales $100K+ KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Assistant Designer/ Merchandiser Well est d & fast growing sleepwear & footwear based co. seeks highly qualified, motivated, organized & creative individual. Must have 1-2 yrs. experience. Candidates must possess the ability to work well under pressure & multi-task for different labels & accounts. Photoshop Illustrator and Excel a must in addition to excellent drawing skills. ASSOC PRODUCT MANAGER NY based import apparel mfg seeks a detail oriented self starter-team player to work with clients. Must work well under pressure & possess strong communication & computer skills. Follow through from development to delivery. Min 2-4 yrs experience required preferably with factories in China. Please Fax resume to: Asst Production Mgr High-end American Sportswear Co. seeking a Men s and Women s Asst Production Mgr w/ a min. of 3 years exp. in garment industry w/ a focus on production. Applicant must have a bachelor s degree with emphasis in apparel manufacturing, experience in a domestic sample room as well as working with domestic and overseas factories, along with exceptional communication skills. Great opportunity w/excellent benefits! EOE Send resume to: ASST. TRAFFIC MGR. Missy sptswr mfr. seeks F/T Asst. Traffic Mgr. Duties include prep & maintain import files, track shipments, communicate w/ whse & prod n depts, as well as customs broker & steamship lines. Must be proficient in Excel & able to multitask. Knowledge of AS400 pref d. Garment Import exp. a plus. resume to: CALLING ALL TALENT "ON THE MARKS" has immediate oppty s in almost all areas of Fashion. If you have experience as a JR. TECH DESIGNER, PRODUCTION COORD. ALLOCATOR,SOURCING COORD. (BIL. CHINESE), BUYER, RECEP- TIONIST, TECH ILLUSTRATORS, ADMIN. ASST or SALES ASS T you are urged to your resume to or immediately. Direct Hire, Temporary and Temp to perm avail. Career Opportunities Right Here! Creative Designer-major co.-sporty bras Technical Designer-knits/fit pants Technical Designer-intimates/bras F/T clric/mdl: 5 6"-5 7"-34x261/2x 361/2-37" Assoc. Dsgnr- Kids outerwear, spec pcks CREATIVE CONNECTIONS AGENCY Fax: Colorist $40-50K Min 1 yr exp. Strong in lab dips. Bway at 39th St. Call Jaral Fashion Agency CUTTERS Minimum 5 years exp. in womens couture and eveningwear. Sample and productions. Please call: Design Assistant Leading children s wear manufacturer seeks highly motivated/detailed individual for mid tier boys division to assist in all aspects of design through production. Illustrator a must. Please fax or resume to: Attn: Rachel (212) Design Associate Designer Well est d Junior/Missy Sweater Co. seeks a Designer with at least 3 years sweater experience to help w/all phases of design. Responsibilities include setting up detailed design packs, communicating with factories overseas and interpreting fashion trends for volume accounts. Ideal candidate will be detailed oriented, a team player, proficient in CAD and willing to travel overseas. We offer a great work environment w/opportunities for growth, excellent salary & benefits. Please or fax resume to: E: Fax: DESIGN Asst-1+ yr exp making up design sheets on Illustrator/know about specing/lab dips/measuring. $30-35K Les Richards Agcy Call (212) Sears Holding Corp. is recruiting talented, passionate designers to join our world class design team, in our new SoHo headquarters. Come meet us to learn more about design opportunities at Sears and Kmart. FASHION DESIGN OPEN CALL Monday and Tuesday, February 6-7, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Mens/Womens/Kids - Apparel and Accessories Designers - Technical Designers - CAD/Graphic Designers Please bring a resume, along with a portfolio representing your design, hand sketching and computer skills. Our Open Call will be held at: SHC Design, 75 Varick St, 8th Fl, New York, NY If you are unable to attend, please forward your resume to We regret that phone calls will not be accepted Design Asst. (Sweaters) Est d missy swtr co. seeks Design Asst. must be organized & motivated, have strong technical knowledge & be proficient in ColorMatters. resume to: DESIGN DIRECTOR/to $120K+ Contemporary Designer Jean Collection Great oppty. to bring your creative talents & direction to this status/ contemp. designer jean collection of denim, knits & wovens. Ability to interpret a license. Req: prev. expr. as des. dir. for a premium/status denim line, ability to keep team on calendar, hands on design ability, knowl. of Illustrator, work w/creator of label etc. resume: (Fax) (Tel) DESIGNER DENIM Junior denim co. seeks organized, detail oriented indiv to create trendy denim concepts 6x per year from start to finish for fast paced import design office. Adobe Illustrator skills & travel overseas req d, great work environment & benefits. Fax resume to: V.P. Design DESIGNER Girls Sportswear seeks an experienced Little Girls Designer to head up the 4-6x category. The individual must be creative, self motivated, well organized, familiar with young, sweet silhouettes and art for mass retailer. Must be familiar with patterns, garment construction, cost restrictions and willing to travel. Please Fax: DESIGNER-KIDS & JR. DENIM Seeking creative & trendy designer with exp in all phases of design. Must be strong w/ Emb design. Illustrator & Photoshop required. resume to: Designers/URBAN JR s/$70 to 110K+ HEAD DESIGNER/SENIOR DESIGNERS For mjr. JR. Urban influenced branded line. Urban line. This is a very successful line of Denim, knits & wovens that needs strong creative dir. & Sr. designers. Req. knowledge of urban related Jr. mkt., ability to process sku plans, design for price pt. Hands on designer with Illustrator skills. resume (Fax) (Tel) DESIGNER We currently have an outstanding oppty for an experienced missy sportswear designer. We are looking for a min. of 3yrsdesign exp in the discount Missy sportswear category, computer sketching ability, a detail-oriented team player, and strong organizational skills. Exp. with imports is a plus. Must be open to occasional travel, as required. Hamrick s offers a comprehensive benefits package including: medical/health, dental, and life insurance, 401K plan, paid holidays, vacation, Christmas bonus program, and an employee discount. Position based in South Carolina Interested candidates should forward resume, with salary history, to: or fax to (864) Design/Knitwear Asst Republic Clothing seeks asst w/ min 3 yrs sweater bkground. Must be organized, have excellent flat sketching skills w/ knowledge of Photoshop & Illustrator. Responsibilities: specs, fitting, sourcing & communication w/ overseas production team. Good benefits pkg. Fax resume: or Design Production Assistant Work w/ designer assisting in all aspects of the biz. Seeking energetic, English speaking person to assist in processing orders, ordering trims, preparing packages for domestic & import production, specing garments, light sketching. Must be detail oriented, organized & able to follow up. Salary open - based on exp. Fax resume to Alan at: Design-Production Asst Great opportunity for a young designer looking to gain exp in small company environment. Must be an energetic person to assist in all aspects of design from sample development through to production. Must be highly organized and detail oriented w/ strong communication skills. Fabric and trim ordering, follow up, communications w/ factories. Work on Illustrator and PhotoShop to create prints. 2 years experience. Nine West Footwear Corporation,a division of Jones Apparel Group, a fashion and apparel industry, is seeking the following positions in the White Plains, NY office: Retail Planner (Job #s 1186 & 1308) A minimum of 3 years Planning experience with Arthur Planning and Footwear experience. Buyer (Job # 1358) Footwear and RTW Buyer openings, 3-5 years Buying experience in related field Required. Assistant Designer (Job #s 1278 & 1077) This person must have the ability to design and sketch footwear, the capacity to research and identify seasonal trends to include materials and componentry, and have the understanding of current fashion trends. Must have great sense of fashion and 2 years experience. Please apply directly to No faxes or phone calls please. EOE M/F/D/V
18 18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2006 A global manufacturer of fashion accessories, legwear, footwear, rainwear, sleepwear, home fashion and novelty gifts has career opportunities available Sales Execs Exp. with industry following. Product Development Mgrs Work w/design & sales w/ understanding of production, spec/tech. Exp. domestic & overseas, conception thru delivery. Production Mgrs Work w/overseas factories, sourcing, knowledge of imports, good w/product & numbers. Assistant Positions Available in all dept and technical design. Good communication, follow-up, organizational, computer, admin skills, detail-oriented, good w/numbers. Will consider entry level. Graphic Artists MAC, Illustrator & Photoshop skills Receptionist Entry level for front desk at our showroom. or fax resumes w/sal.req. Fax: DESIGN Well established Junior import company specializing in knitwear seeks: SR. TECHNICAL DESIGNER For Missy/Plus/Private label division. Minimum 5 yrs. experience is required. Responsibilities include: excellent communication skills, spec development, garment construction, conduct fittings and computer skills (Illustrator). ASSISTANT DESIGNER Candidate must possess a minimum of 2 yrs. experience, have worked with Illustrator and Photoshop. Individual must be multi-task oriented, demonstrate great organizational skills, possess high energy level and love fashion! CAD / GRAPHIC DESIGNER For Missy/Plus/Private Label division. Candidate must be proficient in Quark, Illustrator, Photoshop and flat sketching. Must have excellent graphic and color sense, be self-motivated, organized and work well in a fast paced team environment. Minimum 2 yrs. experience. resume, attn. Human Resources: Director & Accnt Ex s Mens K Outlet Buyer K Planners K Tech Designers-All Areas K Visual Coordinator 45-60K Many other oppty s TEMP & PERM Fax: ENGINEER - SOUTHEAST MUST HAVE PKMS FABRIC COORDINATOR Private label apparel company seeking exp. person to follow up on all aspects of fabric from research and development to approvals of lab dips, testing, communicating with mills and working directly with customers. Merchandising background is a plus. Good computer skills required. Please fax your resume to Attn: Anne Fabulous Freelance/Perm Jobs!!!! Handbag Designers Fabric Asst/Assoc Sales-Knit Hats Production Tech Design resumes ASAP!!! FASHION CAREER OPPORTUNITIES Ileen Raskin, Apparel Nancy Bottali, Accessories Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel FASHION FACULTY Private College seeks faculty for Fashion Program. Ph.D Degree preferred, Master s degree required, along with significant industry exp. Knowledge of textiles, product development, buying, visual merchandising, merchandise planning & control. Send resume to: Fashion Search Berkeley College, 44 Rifle Camp Road, West Paterson, New Jersey Fax: or Equal Opportunity Employment FEBRUARY OPPTY S *Coster, Trim Buyer-Kids Dresses $30-40K *Asst dsgnr/asst grphc-grls imprtr $35-45K *Planner-3yrs Retail Link $80K GRAPHIC DESIGNER $40K Girls 7-16 Sport/Activewear. Apparel Magazine Layout, Photo/Illus or is pleased to announce the expansion of our Fashion Division. Welcome SUSAN CHAPMAN! She currently has positions in Fashion Sales/Sales Asst Marketing/PR Planners Production Merchandisers Designers/Asst Designers Please feel free to contact her at or your resume * JOBS *JOBS *JOBS * *Artists: N/I/T-Girl-Boy-Jr.-Young Men *Artists yg Mens Surf/Athletic ex Quicksilver *Designer-Assists-assoc boy-girl-jr-missy *Designer Assist-Mens 6-12 months exp *Patternmaker 1st - Gerber Computer *Production Assistants and Coordinators *Production coords - bilingual Chinese *Sales Assistants-Showroom Exp $ HI *Technical Designers & Assistants Call (212) ; fax (agcy) Major Sportswear Co. looking to fill the following positions: Asst Design 1 yr. exp. CAD Artist 2-3 yrs. exp. Knowledge of Ned Graphics a must. High taste level, ability to create & recolor prints and embroideries. All candidates must be organized, energetic & be able to multi task. Pls fax resume to MEDIA RELATIONS CREED, legendary maker of fragrance since 1760, seeks junior and mid-level media relations professionals for our Manhattan office, reporting to our Director of Corporate Communications. MOVE TO MIAMI ALL POSITIONS AVAILABLE Swimwear experience a plus. $25K - $250K Office Asst/Clerical Midtown NYC Import Co. seeks person to assist with phones, s, ordrng suppl., smple shpments, asst processing factory PO s. Must be detail and computer savvy. Good Co benefits. Fax Resume to: (212) Order Entry/Cust Svc For Gift Mfr Prior exp working in wholesale / showroom is a plus; Duties include customer service, data entry and order processing Strong computer skills (Word, Excel, Outlook), & good communication skills required; Salary to $35K, plus benefits. resume to: PATTERNMAKER PDS Dallas/Ft. Worth, Texas Based Westmoor Mfg. Co., makers of Panhandle Slim Western Wear - a growing company, seeks a Patternmaker with PDS experience. Gerber Accumark preferred, will consider Lectra. Good Benefits. EOE Please Fax or resumes to: Attn: TOM (817) / PATTERNMAKER Women s sportswear company seeking experienced Patternmaker. Should have experience in all types of garments & knowledge of garment construction. Knowledge of digitizing. Candidate should be dependable, flexible and able to work in a fast paced environment. Fax resume to or Market Research Analyst - NYC Study, evaluate and analyze statistical information on markets, purchase & sales of products, monitor inventory, prepare, create & submit reports based on such studies. Must have BBA degree or related. Send resume to: Prod. Development Assistant Womens Apparel company seeking experienced, detail oriented person to assist with all aspects of product development. Must be able to handle Costing and understand garment construction as it relates to costing. Must have good communication and computer skills. Please fax resume to Attn: Susan Product Development/ Sourcing VF Intimates, LP, a division of VF Corp, the world s largest apparel company, has an immediate opening in our Sourcing Department. The successful candidate will be responsible for tracking all preproduction activities for new style and recolor product for the Business Brands with both internal and external contacts regarding status of sales, fit, TOP samples, materials, color development, etc. Must possess strong communication skills - written and oral, strong computer skills - Excel and Access, min 2 years exp in Sourcing related or product development field strongly preferred. Must have "sense of urgency", ability to prioritize tasks, be detail oriented and work within a team environment. resume w/ salary requirements to: For government record keeping purposes, you may choose to identify your race, ethnicity, and/or gender when responding. VF Corp. is an EOE employer. PRODUCTION ASSISTANT 35 K 1 TO 2 YEARS EXP Production Assistant Fast paced designer womenswear manufacturer seeks production assistant. Candidate will issue cutting tickets, communicate and follow up w/domestic cutting rooms and factories to ensure timely deliveries. Must be multi tasked. Bilingual Cantonese or Mandarin a plus. Please fax resume to Production Assistant Fast paced womenswear manufacturer seeks production asst to prepare tech packages to factories and to cost garments. Must be very thorough and detail oriented. Must have min 1 yr import exp and be computer literate. Fax resume to PRODUCTION ASST Ladies domestic and import dress mfg. seeks exp. person with costing knowledge, cutting room and contractor scheduling. Fax Res. to: EVIE KREISLER & ASSOCIATES established 1978 EXECUTIVE SEARCH Atlanta Chicago Los Angeles New York PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Busy Outerwear Co. seeking detail oriented ind to source fabrics, trims and follow up on sample requests. Daily communication w/overseas vendors, w/good follow up skills; shd be able to liaison bet prodn & sales. Must have technical / specing knowledge of garments, computer skills and sense of urgency. Great work environment w/opportunity for growth. Pls fax resume w/salary requirements to: Production Patternmaker Junior, missy, women s, maternity & men s knit & woven sptswr. Major Private Label Apparel Co. seeks individual w/ min 10 yrs exp. Excellent technical & organizational skills necessary. Fast paced company. All major benefits. Fax Resume Attn: Carmella Fax: PRODUCTION *Production Mgr $95-$125K Bet Contemp Runway Mfr. Sourcing & Costing. Spervse Staff. Time/Act * Sweater Prodn Mgr-Bet Designr $110K * Woven Prodn Coord/Lmtd Brands $70K * Sweater Prodn-Bet Designer $55-75K * Woven-Source Bi-ling Chinese $55K * Woven-Prodn Coord Excel $45K-55K * Coster-Newborn/Girl Size 16 $50K-60K * Allocation Assist Bet Sprtswr $35K or Production P/T Import evening dresses Co seeks P/T detail oriented indiv. w/ 5 yrs exp. Knowl. in all aspects of prod. Oversee prod. from design devel. to shipping, prod. planning, negotiate price, fit comments. Must have knowl. of spec & construction, estimate cost, factory & piece goods sourcing, Excel + Word a must. Fluent in English. Know. of Chinese a +. Please fax Resume, Salary & Req s to: Product Manager Ladies Handbags Designer handbag co seeks product development person with 5+ years accessory development experience. Candidate must be hard working, energetic, team player with high taste level and ability to juggle many tasks. Knowledge of materials/leather resources a plus. Overseas factory travel exp necessary. Send resume to Kim at: PRODUCT MANAGER Private Label mfg seeks expr. individual w/ min 5 yrs prior experience. Candidate must have a thorough understanding of the processes involved from product development to delivery, the ability to communicate w/ both clients & overseas factories on a daily basis, work well under pressure & w/ a sense of urgency. Please fax resume to: Private Label Apparel Sales Ladies sportswear importer seeks a team player who can initiate and follow through on programs from concept to delivery. 3 yrs sales/product development experience with good merchandising skills, experience managing national accounts and established contacts preferred. Please fax or resume to: or Public Relations / Press UNIQUE OPPORTUNITY Entry level. Seeking a uniquely talented individual to handle press & public relations for our retail and wholesale businesses. A great opportunity to grow with a small and exciting team. Enthusiasm, and a love of fashion & customer service a must. Please fax or resume to: RECEPTIONIST Seeking well-spoken, energetic individual with great personality to answer phones, greet customers, and perform light office duties (filing & ordering office supplies). Fax all resumes to: RECRUITER-APPAREL Long Estab, Cutting Edge Power Apparel Exec Search Firm Has Opening for Staff Recruiter. Contact in Confidence or RETAIL Sales Dir/Hi-end jewelry/10 yrs exp $ k Store Mgr/5 yrs Hi-end exp $60-75k+ FAX: SALES ASSISTANT Growing NYC Young Men s/boys Branded & Private Label Co. has an opportunity for an exp d., motivated, and organized Sales Asst. to join our team. Domestic travel req d. Great work environment & benefits. Fax resume to V.P. of Sales : (212) Sales Coordinator Accessory Network Group, a leader in women s and children s branded and licensed accessories and fashion jewelry is currently seeking a Sales Coordinator for our Animations Division. The ideal candidate must be a Team Player, detail oriented, organized and possess excellent written and verbal communications skills and must be computer literate. Responsibilities will include: maintaining the showroom, managing the OTS reports and OTS inventory, processing orders and blocking styles, entering HFC s, helping w/ presentations and providing customer service and selling to small accounts. Accessory Network Group is an Equal Opportunity Employer. We offer an excellent compensation and benefits package including a 401K plan. For immediate consideration, please fax or resume including salary history and requirements to: FAX:
19 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 1, Sales Executives Jewelry Accessory Network Group, a leader in women s and children s branded and licensed accessories and fashion jewelry has tremendous opportunities available for dynamic Sales Professionals to join include directing fit sessions and communicating our growing team. We are currently fit comments to factories. looking for experienced Sales Executives for our jewelry division. Need to be energetic, detail oriented & computer proficient. Dress exp a must, ANG Sales Executives work hard and work smart and have experience with the Mass, Mid-Tier or Dept /Specialty store markets. The ideal candidates will be team players, computer literate, organized, detailed, creative and energetic. The product is right and the opportunities are here. If you have the skills to open and grow key accounts, we have the tools to make it happen. Accessory Network Group is an Equal Opportunity Employer. We offer an excellent compensation and benefits package including a 401K plan. For immediate consideration, please fax or resume including salary history and requirements to: FAX: SAMPLEMAKER Well estb d Couture Co. seeks highly skilled exp d sewers/tailors for a stable/secure position. Knowledge of cutting a plus. Oppty for growth. Please call SAMPLE ROOM SUPERVISOR Important garment co seeks experienced person to run sample room. Computer & organizational skills required. Fax resume to: STYLECAREERS.COM Buyer - Footwear Knit Designer - Girls/Junior Planner - Multi Positions Textile Designer - Home Patternmaker - FT/Freelance Product Mgr - RTW Merchandiser - Handbags Associate Designer - Denim SWEATER TECHNICAL DESIGNER ALFRED DUNNER INC. Seeking self-motivated, detail oriented team player with strong technical knowledge in full fashion and cut & sewn sweaters. Must have experience in all aspects of import and domestic production phases as well as knowledge of yarn, stitch, machinery, embellishments, fit and garment construction. Must be able to generate initial and final specs for production. MS Excel required. resume: or call Anita Lee: 212/ Ext Technical Design Assistant Adult and Youth apparel company seeks a highly motivated individual with experience in grading, fit comments, and garment construction. Must be detail oriented, and organized to assist the Head Technical Designer with every aspect from color organization to spec development. Computer skills a MUST- Excel, Word. Previous experience with Wal-Mart CTL testing procedures is welcomed. Please Fax to: Technical Designer Fast paced childrenswear co. seeks TD w/ min5yrsexp from 1st fit sample thru production approval. Patternmaking, measuring & garment construction required. Excel, Word, Retail Link A+! Fax res: Attn: LS Technical Designer ROBBIE BEE FYC Apparel Group Leading dress co seeks Tech Designer for expanding production team. Must have exp in detailed flat sketching, garment construction, spec development, and fit analysis. Responsibilities production patternmaking skills a plus. Overseas exp necessary. Excellent benefits. Competitive salary. Fax resume to: TECHNICAL DESIGNERS * TD Menswear-Better Designer $80-85K * TD Bet Mkt-Jeans/Pants/Jkts $75-80K * TD Kids/Boyswear $70K * TD Sweater-Many Opptys $55-100K * Spec Tech-Wovens $35-$55K Technical Designer Sweater importer has immediate opening for Sweater Technical Designer. Must have knowledge of sweater garment construction and graded specs. Must have experience communicating with Overseas agents/factories. If you are detail oriented and a team player with great organizational skills, please fax resume: Attn Ritchie or TECHNICAL ILLUSTRATOR Fast past sportswear company seeks individual with 2-3 years experience to work in busy design dept. Must know Photoshop, Adobe Illustrator and CAD. Must have knowledge of garment construction and details. Must be detail oriented, organized and able to work in a team oriented environment. Fax resume to: (212) Allen B. / A.B.S. By Allen Schwartz Account Executive Allen B., a leader in contemporary/couture jeans, and casual lifestyle clothing has an incredible opportunity for an account executive with a strong sales ability to drive sales and build businesses. This person should have established relationships with high end contemporary/designer specialty and department stores. All replies kept confidential. Key Account Rep Wanted Roxy is looking for a Key Account Rep to handle all East Coast major department store accounts for Roxy Juniors and Roxy Girl divisions. Must have 3 years of outside sales experience, selling to department stores. For consideration, please resume to: Sportswear Seeks aggressive & highly motivated, experienced salesperson w/strong dept./specialty chain contacts to cultivate new and maintain existing accounts. Candidate must be self starter, highly motivated & have exc computer skills. Experienced need only apply!! Please fax resume Attn: Cindy ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Junior denim co. seeks energetic, motivated & organized account exec w/specialty & chain store following for NY showroom, Domestic travel req d, great work environment & benefits. Fax resume: V.P. Sales COOLWEAR JEANS Seeking Sales Force for Nat l advertised and branded very hip young cont denim line. All terr. avail. Must have following. Fax: Magic Booth JR11713 Great Opportunity! Young and growing better sportswear & suits company based on 525 7th Ave. seeks ambitious Salesperson for specialty & small chain stores. Salary + Commission. Please send resume to: FAX: (212) Motivated and Exp d Sales Executive Blue Cult, a premium denim brand is looking for an East Coast Sales Executive to launch their newest line, Elite by Blue Cult. Must have at least 5 years exp & established relationships with premium, high profile stores throughout the East Coast. All interested, please fax resumes & references to Marlo Williams at (323) National Sales Mgr Jimmy Choo currently has an exciting opportunity for a National Sales Manager in our wholesale department. This individual will work w/ specialty retailers as well as major accounts in North America. The ideal candidate will have 5+ years of related exp in women s luxury goods (footwear and accessories exp preferred). In addition, this individual should have excellent analytical and communication skills. Please resumes with salary requirements: Private Label Sales Person Est d. Intimate Hong Kong Mfr. seeks an exp d. Private Label Sales Person for midtier & Mass market. Must be familiar with replenishment program with JCP, ready to travel, and have est d. relationships with major Dept. Stores. Excellent salary; Be Your Own Boss! resumes to: Richard Leeds International Intimate Apparel Branded & Private Label sleepwear / daywear / loungewear co seeks seasoned AE to manage and grow mass & mid-tier accts. Ideal candidate will have 3+ yrs intimate apparel exp. Merchandising skills are necessary. Competitive compensation pkg. Send resume to: Sales Executive Junior clothing co. is seeking selfmotivated salesperson for private label business. Established Relationships w/ Dept / Speciality & Discount stores a must. Excellent salary w/ commission offered. Sales Account Executive Established luxury handbag company seeks experienced, positive, pro-active sales executive to join team. Must have current exp. with high end specialty stores and be willing to travel as well as handle showroom sales and attend trade shows. Excellent communication and computer skills required. Salary $40K and benefits. Fax resume & cover letter to: (212) CHILDREN S WEAR Sales Executive Prestigious European Children s Wear Company is looking for enthusiastic and motivated Sales Executive, with excellent sales and follow-up skills. Computer literate & experience a must. GREAT BENEFITS! resume at: Sales Executive MISSY/CONTEMPORARY LOUNGEWEAR/SLEEPWEAR CO. Seeking a high-energy Sales Executive w/strong relationships w/dept. Stores and mid-tier accounts. We offer a great work environment, opportunity for growth, and an excellent compensation package & benefits. Please resumes in confidence to: SALES EXECUTIVE Well est d. Leather & Suede Mfr. seeks team player w/strong sales & long-term goals to fit into our Sales Team. Must have 2-3 yrs. exp., be extremely aggressive, motivated, and hard working, and have a great personality. Service Specialty Stores & work Regional Markets. Fax all resumes to: SALES MANAGER Designer market seeks Sales Manager. Highly developed fashion sense and established relationships with major accounts. Minimum 2+ years experience. Please resume to: SALES MANAGER Dynamic Textile Fabric Co from China looking for a sales manager for its NY office. The candidate should have 5-10 years sales experience in wovens, who can open doors with well-known retailers and branded fashion garment companies. Please call or resume to: SALES PRO Missy activewear company seeks sales person with established contacts in mass merchant, chain & specialty store categories. Fax resume: (212) SALES PRO WANTED Need a change? Multi-million $ L.I. based Promotional Products distributor seeks Salespeople. Garment center exp. a proven +. Draw/Commission. Fax/ / seeks SALES ASSISTANT Energetic and self-motivated individual with proven sales experience and leadership qualities, must have strong chain and specialty store following. Computer skills are required. Position is in the New York Showroom. 2-3 years experience only. Fax resume to: Attn: Cindy TEXTILE SALES PRO Experienced salesperson needed for a growing textile company handling both women s and men s. Salary and annual bonus. Great Opportunity! Please fax resume to: (212) sales Showroom Sales Multi line showroom seeks aggressive sales person with 1 year experience for fast pace, fun environment. Please resume to: PERSONAL SHOPPER Women s Fashion Clothing Company seeks a personal shopper with a strong sales background and super service experience. Must have excellent phone and writing skills. Also must have computer exp. and laptop to maintain customer book and correspondence. Base and commission as sales exceed goals. Resume to: Excellent Commission Well est d Importer ladies beaded sequin garments seek aggressive Reps all over USA. Must have strong contacts with buyers. DESIGNER / SENIOR LEVEL Dresses/Sportswear exp d, Domestic/ Import. Great with prints, color and embellishments. Concept thru prod n. Contact with China, traveled to India, shop Europe. Call: (845) VP of Global Sourcing & Mfg. Seeks new challenge. Exceptional exp sourcing, costing, placing and delivering licensed and or program orders for mass, mid tier, specialty chains and dept stores. Knowl. of all QC & vendor compliance procedures. Outstanding mgmt & communication skills. Unique ability to help develop product with design and mdse staff for Ladies/Jrs/Girls knit and woven tops, bottoms & sptswr. Please reply to: /
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business model Always providing high-quality casual wear at reasonable prices The mission and vision of UNIQLO is to continuously offer fashionable, high-quality, basic casual clothing that everyone can