3/10/2009 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD. Important E ventsinfluenced StylesoftheCrinolinePeriod C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N. c

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1 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N THE CRINOLINE PERIOD Check for updates on the web now! Click anywhere in the slide to view the next item on the slide or to advance to the next slide. Use the buttons below to navigate to another page, close the presentation or to open the help page. Important E ventsinfluenced StylesoftheCrinolinePeriod Click to advancethrough thetimeline Check Justin GiuseppeGaribaldi for$7,200, Smith Morrill LouisNapoleon CharlesDarwin IsaacM.Singerinventsthefirstpracticalsewing Queen Victoria becomesnapoleon publisheshistheory Emancipation continuesto occupy thethird ofevolution CharlesWorth Hoopskirtorcagecrinolineisintroduced openscoutureestablishmentin thebritish thesecond in CharlesWorth Proclamation meetstheempresseugenieand endsslavery in theunited beginsto States EbeneezerButterick CongresspassestheMorrillAct,establishing Harper sbazar,fashion United Transcontinentalrailroad StatespurchasesAlaska Abraham CivilWarin Paris Throne machine. French RepublicbecomestheSecond patentsthefirstsized,paperpattern TheOrigin Reunification Lincoln theunited magazine,beginspublication ofthespecies isassassinated ofitaly from completed States Land therussians GrantColleges forclothing. design herclothes Empire The style lines for women s dress at the beginning of the crinoline period were like those of the late Romantic Period. Click image to toggle view 3 1

2 The innovation of the cage crinoline or hoopskirt c contributed to the continuing popularity of very wide skirts. Click to rotate Hoops to support skirts were not a new idea. They had been used in the 16 th and 18 th Centuries. 5 Cartoonists found hoopskirts a rich subject for humor. 6 2

3 Before the adoption of the cage crinoline, women s rights advocates had attempted to reform women s dress proposing the bloomer dress. The support provided by hoops helped to make women s skirts lighter, therefore less encumbering, and the bloomer costume faded away. 7 Women s under drawers were made of cotton. X Click to Enlarge 8 Over the under drawers, they placed a chemise. X Click to Enlarge 9 3

4 Over the chemise, went a corset. X X Click to Enlarge 10 Over the corset went a camisole or corset cover. X Click to Enlarge 11 Next, the hoop was added. Click on image to rotate

5 And then a single petticoat over the hoop. In winter, it might be made of flannel. X X Click to Enlarge 13 Dresses were usually two piece, had a full gathered or pleated skirt, and a dropped shoulder line. Daytime dresses had high necks Evening dresses had low, often off-the-shoulder necklines X Click on image to Enlarge 14 To go outdoors any of several garments might be worn. A shawl, perhaps one of the Kashmir shawls popular since the beginning of the century A short jacket A mantle 15 5

6 Accessories of Note Under sleeves and Chemisette Footwear Parasol Miser s Purse Jewelry 16 A man s undergarments included under drawers and, in cold weather, perhaps an undershirt. 17 Over which he placed a shirt, worn with a tie or cravat. 18 6

7 And over that trousers, held up by suspenders. 19 Next, a vest. 20 Men could choose from several different jacket types. Dress or tailcoat for formal, evening wear Frock coat for daytime Sack jacket for less formal occasions 21 7

8 For outdoors, a variety of cloaks, capes, overcoats. 22 Accessories of Note Suspenders or Braces Hats Pocket Watch and Fob Ties 23 Although both boy and girl toddlers wore skirts, older children were dressed much as adults. 24 8

9 With the opening of the House of Worth in Paris, British-born Charles Worth began the high fashion dressmaking that became know as the haute couture. His clients were rich, famous and royal women from all over the world. 25 Military conflicts inspired some fashionable styles. The Garibaldi Blouse from the red shirts worn by the soldiers fighting under General Giuseppe Garibaldi for the liberation of Italy Zouave jackets worn by Algerian soldiers and adopted by an American Civil War regiment. X X Click to enlarge image 26 Though sports for women were limited, they did have costumes specifically for bathing and riding horseback. XX Click to enlarge image 27 9

10 By the end of the decade of the 1860 s, the fashionable silhouette had changed. It featured: Skirt Not fullness a gathered, A higher moved but waistline more a gored to the skirt back. 28 For Further Study Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period Clothing Texas Fashion Collection Bata Shoe Museum Bath Museum Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of garments and accessories. Museum of the City of New York. Images from several exhibits. Philadelphia Museum Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute Smithsonian National Museum of American History, Washington, DC Cornell University Costume Collection Drexel University Costume Gallery 19th Century Shoes hoes/19th_century.htm 29 For Further Study Paisley Shawls Hoopskirts Charles F. Worth, Couturier Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic Clothing Arnold, J Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 1: Vol. 2: New York: Drama Book Specialists. Bradfield, N Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press. Waugh, N The Cut of Men's Clothes, New York: Theater Arts Books

11 Image Credits Image of Cage Crinoline, courtesy of the New York Public Library of Digital Images. Various images, courtesy of Karen Augusta, c. 2005, [ ]. Image of Cage Crinoline, c. 1860, courtesy of Suzi Clarke, [ ]. Image of Harper s Front Page c. 1867, courtesy of Michael Ward, [ ]. Various images, courtesy of Violet J. Willis, [ ]. Image of Drawers, c , courtesy of Donna Neary, [ ]. Various images, courtesy of Deborah Burke, [ ]. Image of Farthingale and Panier, courtesy of [ ]. Image of Spring Fashions, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Image Collection. Image of the Garibaldi Blouse, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Image Collection. Image of Swimwear, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Image Collection. Various images, courtesy of Karen Augusta, [ ], c Various images in this chapter are courtesy of Claire King; [ ]; Photo Arts; Fairchild Publications, Inc.; 31 11

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