8/28/15. Fashion History. Fashion HIstory. The Gibson Girl. Historical Influence- 1890s. Fashion in the 1890s. Key Pieces of Fashion

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1 Fashion History Fashion HIstory Trends move very quickly starting in the 1890s. Trends repeat every years Historical Influence- 1890s Victorian Era: a period of peace, prosperity and refined manners Age of Optimism Ragtime (Jazz and Rhythm) Civil War was a large influence ( ) The Gibson Girl Artist Charles Dana Gibson sketched young women, and became known as the Gibson Girls. They were published in newspapers and set the standard for the All- American Girl Fashion in the 1890s Focus was on the exaggerated silhouette. Shoulders were wide, waists were cinched in, and the hip was increased. Corset: a garment worn to hold and shape the torso. Bustle: skirt-like piece that were worn to support the drapery of a woman s dress. 1

2 More about the Corset Severely damages the internal structure! Some waists went as small as 18 around. Men s Fashions Matching Coat and Vest with Contrasting Trousers Winged Shirt Collars: generally turned over or turned into wings. Ascot Tie: Loose, fluffy tie. Movies representing this era Finding Neverland Moulin Rouge (1952) Sherlock Holmes Holes Historical Influence-1900s Industrial Revolution Era Automobiles and Electricity were invented Edwardian Era: a time of peace and plenty. The upper classes embrace leisure sports, so more mobile and flexible were needed. Fashion in the 1900s The S-Curve Silhouette: the silhouette softened into the S-Shaped Curve. Softer shoulders, less restrictive corsets and no bustle. 2

3 Duster Coat: Men and women wore these to protect their clothing when driving/riding in cars Shirtwaist: A blouse with buttons down the front Key pieces of Fashion Leg O Mutton Sleeves: lots of material at the top, tapered at the wrist Men s Fashion Three-piece lounge suit with Bowler Hat: relatively nonconstricting with a sack coat, simple vest, and pleated trousers Formal Morning Dress with Top Hat: morning coat, waistcoat and trousers. Movies representing this era Moulin Rouge (2001) Meet Me in St. Louis Saving Mr. Banks Mary Poppins Historical Influence 1910s World War 1 ( ) Fashion came to a standstill because patriotism was at an all time high Women s Movement Women demanded the right to vote, wear make-up, cut their hair short, and wear skirts above the ankle 3

4 Fashion in the 1910s Decade starts out with the inverted triangle silhouette Towards the end of WWI: Barrel Silhouette or Tonneau look comes in Baggy dress/jacket combination that made women look large and droopy in the chest Hobble Skirt: Paul Poiret (french designer) broke the new rule of freedom. Hemline was narrow so women could only take very tiny steps Very short lived Bathing Suit: Introduced by Annette Kellerman. Bloomers: because of the bicycle, Amelia Bloomer designed a practical outfit. Loose trousers gathered at the ankle. Later they were shortened to under the knee. Military Influences Trench Coats Men s Fashion Movies Representing this Era Titanic Lady and the Tramp Tuck Everlasting 4

5 Historical Influences- 1920s Roaring 20 s -marked by a general feeling of discontinuity-modern times and a break in tradition. Age of Jazz-Dancing rose in popularity Prohibition Women s right to vote-causing a more progressive woman Fashions in the 1920s Silhouette: tubular or straight up and down Dropped waistline FYI: the brassiere (BRA) was introduced but was used to flatten the figure, not to uplift or enhance. Flappers Young women s fashion was both a trend and social statement, breaking away from rigid Victorian way of life Labeled flappers by older generations No corsets, knee length dresses (exposing legs and arms) shorter hairstyle Thinking Woman College educated Opposite of the flapper Dress was emancipated but not extreme Costume Jewelry-long pearl necklaces, large gem stones, bangles etc. Cloche Hatsresembled a helmet. Men s Fashions Trousers creased with wider hemlines Introduction of modern two piece suits Wingtips 5

6 Movies Representing this Era The Great Gatsby Thoroughly Modern Millie Singing in the Rain It s a Wonderful Life The Princess and the Frog Historical Influences-1930s Depression Era: Good times ended with the crash of the stock market. Hollywood/Movie Stars Designers Coco Chanel: made a hit in fashion using black and navy in simple frill-free designs. She said, Each frill discarded makes one look younger. Fashion had to change because of lack of supplies Fashion in the 1930s Elongated Hourglass silhouette: long and slim with flared hem (think mermaid) Hemlines were dropped back down to the ankle, waistline was restored Hand-me-downs became popular (reuse everything!) Bias cut dresses: it revolutionized the silhouette. It emphasized the natural curves of a woman through drape and fabric choice 6

7 Key Pieces in Fashion Flour Sack Clothing: Flour sacks became the material for clothing. Men s Fashions Introduction of the double breasted suit Padded shoulders Glen Plaid Fabrics Movies Representing this Era Annie Cinderella Man The Legend of Bagger Vance The Sound of Music Historical Influences-1940s World War II ( ): Fashion industry in Europe was closed down by the war, so the U.S. was left to it s own designers for fashion direction Rationing New York Gains Importance Fashion in 1940s Inverted Triangle Silhouette Women began to wear pants (practical dress for work in industry.) Pant then became popular as a comfortable casual fashion Fashion was very manly and very sensible tweed. Shoulders were square, wide and padded Suit dresses were very popular 7

8 War Restrictions Fashion was restricted Stockings were expensive and usually not available. Women in this picture are shown painting their legs to appear to have nylons on. More Restrictions L85-law which restricted the manufacture of clothing Ruffles were forbidden Only one pocket per blouse or shirt Hems could be no deeper than 2 inches and the widest part of the hem of a dress could not exceed 72 inches Key Pieces in Fashion Convertible Suit (mix and match pieces): Slacks Men s Fashion Military Influence: Bomber Jacket and Eisenhower Jacket Several things were removed: cuffs, vest, pant suits, patch pockets, cloth belts, and pleats. Movies Representing this Era A League of Their Own Bedknobs and Broomsticks Pearl Harbor The Notebook 8